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Kruger Self Drive. September/October 2019


Dave Williams

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Dave Williams

Despite our meal experience the previous evening I like Olifants. We were lucky to have been allocated a room with one of the best views possible.

Olifants Rest Camp

The restaurant might not be that good but the view from the Braii is something else! Mind you, it would be dark so views don't count for too much unless you stay around when it's light. There was plenty of water in the river below and it was alive with game albeit you need a telescope or binoculars to view.

Our room was once again nicely presented.

Olifants Rest Camp

There might be a neighbouring chalet but it's still very private, and for us very handy as we were almost next to the shop and restaurant.

Internally it's a little bit cramped for space but you are not going to spend too much time in there anyway. The kitchen wasn't the best equipped, there wasn't a microwave ( which we wouldn't be using anyway) but the let down was the poor electric hob. I resorted to putting the cast iron cooking pot directly on the BBQ coals and that brought the water up to the boil in double quick time and the dish suffered no ill effects as a result either.

The bird life around the camp is pretty good too. I got up early for a wander and soon added some new species to my trip list.

Pearl-spotted Owlet

The Pearl Spotted Owlet didn't hang around for long though once it saw me, the delightful African Paradise Flycatcher is, in my opinion, one of the most difficult birds to capture in camera.

African Paradise Flycatcher

They are constantly on the move, usually in fairly dense thickets and then there's that tail to contend with! Well, on the male anyway.

We were lucky to have two different Woodpeckers in the trees by our chalet.

Bearded Woodpecker

Both Bearded and Golden-tailed.

Golden-tailed Woodpecker.

We also had a fleeting visit from a White-bellied Sunbird too.

White-bellied Sunbird

On the ground a noisy pair of Crested Barbet were not too far away either.

Crested Barbet

With Claire ready to go we set off to explore the local roads...the S44, the S93, the S46  then the tar road south before taking the S39.

It proved to be disappointing to be honest. 

A pair of Kori Bustard

Kori Bustard

The best views yet of a African Pipit...I think. Pipits, Larks and all those other "Little Brown Jobbies" just confuse me.

African Pipit  Anthus cinnamomeus

and here's a different one

African Pipit

One the mammal side of things it was very poor indeed with hardly anything seen at all until we arrived at the Ratelpan waterhole where there was a constant procession of Zebra arriving for a drink.

Zebra

Everywhere was so dry and dusty, no doubt most creatures had headed to the Olifants river where there was a ready supply of water and greenery to eat too.

We stopped off at the Timbavati Picnic site hoping they might sell food but alas we were disappointed to find they only have cold drinks on offer. There were quite a few birds hanging around though, expecting a few morsels from those who had brought their own picnics.

We decided to head back towards Olifants and I was delighted to spot a Secretary Bird fairly close to the road.

Secretary Bird

We sat and watched it for some time hoping it might get even closer, it was already only 30m away but the heat haze was such all my images were distorted. After standing around for an age, doing a bit of grooming occasionally, it started to move in the direction I was hoping for but having disappeared behind a bush it emerged in flight. Another disappointment as by the time I was on to it it was a long way off. What did surprise me was that there had been two others on the opposite side of the road and I hadn't noticed them. I'm not sure how close they had been but all three were now little specs in the distance as they circled high above us.

The one good thing to come out of it was that while I had been waiting for the Secretary Bird to move, out of the corner of my eye another movement had me focussing on what was there.

A Common Buttonquail and an excellent addition as they are definitely not an easy bird to see.

Common Buttonquail

Our only other stop was to have another go at capturing Little Swift in action. A few minutes of that was enough! Madness would follow if you stick with it too long.

Little Swift

It was back to camp then and get ready for the Bat Hawk!

I was ready and waiting when the hawk made it's appearance which was fairly brief.

Click!

Bat Hawk impersonator!

Click!

Bat Hawk impersonator!

Click!

Bat Hawk impersonator!

and it was gone having already caught dinner.

To my disappointment I was later to discover this isn't a Bat Hawk which is something of a rarity. No, this is an imposter, but an extremely good one. It has the speed of movement to change direction and pluck a small, fast moving bat out of the air. It's been suggested it's an Ovambo Sparrowhawk which is a good guess, if anyone has any other opinion let me know!

Anyway, fortunately we still had enough provisions to make a meal ourselves for our last night. Tomorrow we would be heading across the park to exit briefly to stock up in Phalaborwa before heading to Shimuwini Bushveld Camp.

I was really looking forward to that too! Maybe some downtime with less driving for a change?

TBC

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Dave Williams

It had been a pleasure staying in Olifants but I was really looking forward to Shimuwini Bushveld Camp. If it was as good as Talamati had been I would be more than happy. Olifants had been good for birds, not so many other creatures, a few nuisance Vervet Monkeys, some Dwarf Mongoose and the ever present Squirrels but one thing they did have were  the thousands of bats that inhabit the buildings in camp. Maybe Shimuwini might have something better!

Affect taking a few photos of the Red-winged Starlings pecking at our Braii we were ready for off.

Red-winged Starling

We headed north again on the H8 and H1-5 road to Letaba Rest Camp, one we wouldn't be staying at. Once again we drew a blank seeing nothing of note until we came across a herd of Buffalo wandering across the road.

It was something to look at anyway!

Road block

We were happy to let every last one of them clear the road before continuing on towards Letaba.

We decided to check out the top end of the S46 gravel road but it didn't change our luck much although I did get some decent views of a small flock of Golden-breasted Bunting. 

Golden-breasted Bunting

Just before we arrived at the day visitor car park at Letaba I spotted something in the undergrowth. 

Not the best of shots but something at least and a new addition for the trip. A Kurrichane Thrush.

Kurrichane Thrush

The day visitor area in Letaba is certainly a bit different. Totally apart from the main camp and much bigger than everywhere else, we had a walk around the tree lined pathways but there was nothing to see there either so we headed in to the camp to find the restaurant. Nicely appointed with a nice outlook too but despite the lack of many customers the service was so slow we got up and walked to the take away coffee bar instead. I have to say the coffee was outstanding, definitely, along with the one we sampled at Orpen Gate, head and shoulders better than everywhere else. I find it strange there is so much inconsistency when all these places are run by the same outfit! Unfortunately the muffin we had decided to have with the coffee failed to inspire. Never mind, we were heading to the shops in Phalaborwa so if needed we could grab a bite there.

I'd been told there was a Hyena den just outside Letaba so we stopped to look. It was obvious where the den was because of the footprints but there was no signs of life, they had probably retreated inside the culvert to get out of the very hot sun. 

A Bateleur landed in a nearby tree

Bateleur

and after snapping that there was once again absolutely no sign of life for virtually the rest of our journey. Just mile after mile of leafless shrubbery on the way to Phalaborwa although the scenery heading further north to Shimuwini was a vast improvement and we started to see game alongside the river that still had water in it.

The gravel road to Shimuwini is restricted to residents only, all 11kms on the direct route as well as having access to the loop road off it too. It too was depressingly empty, it was still hot though.

I was becoming a bit disillusioned when suddenly we arrived in camp and my spirits lifted.

An oasis of stunning beauty .

Shimuwini Bushveld Camp

Just 15 chalets, all overlooking the lake.

Shimuwini Bushveld Camp

Over in the corner a bird hide raised up on stilts but with decent views back down the lake.

The accommodation was without doubt the best we'd had so far, We had two bedrooms each with two single beds, 

Shimuwini Bushveld Camp

a bathroom 

Shimuwini Bushveld Camp

and an outdoor kitchen diner which was well covered.

Yours truly was soon hurriedly performing the most important task.

Shimuwini Bushveld Camp

Get those beers in the cooler a.s.a.p!

I had fallen in love with Shimuwini already, I decided I would be happy just staying local, or at least so I thought! 

On checking in I'd asked what wildlife I might see in camp. Once again the answer had comeback 'None".

Strange then there was a huge pile of Elephant dung on the lawn near to the front of the chalet. I wondered how that might have got there!

As were were unloading the car, two antelope wandered along in front of the fence.

Nyala female

a first too, my first ever Nyala.

Nyala male

If every day brings something special I'm more than happy so that was my spirits lifted again.

I investigated the bird hide looking over the Hippos lounging in what was quite deep water.

Hippos

and despite my intentions not to, I went out in the car to investigate the loop road approaching camp. By now it was getting a bit cooler and from the loop you had decent views over the river bed. There was plenty of game out there, even a small herd of elephant that were heading towards our camp.

Claire had remained in camp but when she saw them coming she popped down to the hide to get the shot.

Shimuwini Bushveld Camp

whilst I came back empty handed.

Was I bothered? Of course not. I was in paradise!

Can there be anything better than a cold beer and a Braii in a place like this?

Shimuwini Bushveld Camp

Tell me if you know what could possibly be better!!

TBC

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Towlersonsafari

glad to hear good things of your latest camp as we are there next May-very much enjoying your report @Dave Williams thank you

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Dave Williams

Of all the camps we'd stayed in so far Shimuwini was the most isolated but that wasn't a problem, we'd stocked up with food and drink at the Spar in Phalaborwa and I was hoping to have some down time just hanging around the camp, maybe sitting in the hide or just watching from our chalet. I had no intention of driving beyond the length of our private approach road. It was also a time to catch up and review some of the photographs I'd taken so far. I thought Claire might like to unwrap her sunbed and take in a few rays, maybe we'd have a swim in the small swimming pool.

One thing certainly wasn't an issue. Waking up! No need for an alarm clock in KNP! In every place we'd stayed so far we had been woken to the sound of the Natal Spurfowl.

Natal Spurfowl

Believe me they can make quite a racket! 

Here in Shimuwini we had additional sounds and they went on all night.

Hippo

Hippos seem to spend much of the day asleep and are active at night, this one was returning to deeper water first thing in the morning. That's not to say they are quiet during the day though, the silence of the bush is often punctuated by a Hippo altercation with one of it's own!

Anyway, on our first morning our neighbours asked had we been aware of the Elephant wandering around the camp! We hadn't but we were later told the elephant had visited the night before we arrived too, it had simply walked through the electrified fence, destroying a section in the process . The Elephant was showing signs of aggression too it seemed. One thing was certain though, it had enjoyed a swim in the pool, no wonder the bottom was covered in sand! Anyway, come dawn it had vanished, thankfully.

Claire came out in the car with me to check out our loop road. She spotted some Dwarf Mongoose which were backlit by the rising sun.

Dwarf Mongoose

We bumped in to our neighbours who asked 'Did you see the Leopard ?" 

No we hadn't, despite driving around at 5-10 kph. I really wanted a Leopard now and it seemed there was an excellent possibility that tales of a local Leopard were true.

We drove on but found nothing of note.

Red-crested Kohraan

Yes, you soon forget the thrill of seeing something for the first time, even if just a few days have elapsed.

African Buffalo

OK , maybe we got better views of the Fish Eagle than we'd had previously.

African Fish Eagle

Complacency is dangerous though. I spotted a pair of Natal Spurfowl wandering slowly across the road and just ignored them until I suddenly realised there not Spurfowl but Sandgrouse.

The first I'd seen too,

Double-banded Sandgrouse

Hopefully I'd get another opportunity because by the time I had realised what I was looking at the Sandgrouse were disappearing in to the bush.

Another car approached from the opposite direction.

"Anything about?" I asked.

"Yes, we have just had a fabulous sighting of Leopard" came back the reply. Grrrr, I was so envious. Anyway, armed with instructions on where to find it off we went but alas our luck was out.

We returned to camp.

I spent the rest of the day in the camp taking stock of what was about.

Brown-hooded kingfisher

Not too much of great interest it seemed to be honest.

Egyptian Goose

Well nothing I hadn't seen elsewhere anyway.

Pied Kingfisher

You can always hope to get an action shot though.

White-fronted Bee-eater

However, that wasn't to be.

I couldn't wait for the sun to start cooling down, I knew where I wanted to be.

Out looking for the Leopard!

Claire declined to join me, can't blame her, I spent another 90 minutes driving around at a snail's pace only to draw another blank.

Ah well, always tomorrow!!

I wasn't too disappointed, put in the hours and you will hopefully get the rewards.

it was beer time again and time to light the Braii.

One of the nice things about Shimuwini is that it seems such a sociable place.I think perhaps most folk who choose to stay there seem to do so just to stay put.It is out on a limb really, if you intend driving to places there are other camps that are better located, Shimuwini could be one of the worst perhaps, anyway I talked to quite a few of our neighbouring residents both outside their chalets and in the gathering place...the bird hide so it was nice to have a social aspect to the camp too. Most were quite content to just chill.

TBC

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Dave Williams

For the second morning I was up and awake at the crack of dawn. I made myself a cup of coffee in the outdoor kitchen, useful to avoid waking up Claire.

Suddenly there was a loud bang.

That sounded like a gunshot.

A few minutes later another one.

My spine tingled with apprehension. Please not poachers.

I wandered over to the bird hide with my mug. I wasn't the first one in either, a lady from Cape Town had beaten me to it and she was quite excited at what she'd seen. She showed me the photo she'd taken and sure enough, although it was almost dark, the white plumage confirmed it was a White-backed Night Heron. A very nice bird to see indeed and largely nocturnal. I certainly didn't expect to see one here although the No 1 bird on my target list was, according to the SANParks website, one I might do. When you saw how low the river was that wasn't very likely indeed. Pel's Fishing Owl would have to wait but this was indeed a bird worth getting up a bit earlier for tomorrow!

I mentioned the gunshot and she confirmed she'd heard them too, she'd also seen three Rangers armed with a gun heading off earlier too.

I returned to our chalet when it was a lot lighter, Claire was awake, up and ready to go on the early morning patrol slowly driving the loop looking for that Leopard again.

Once again we drew blank, well on Leopard ,but at least I has a new addition for my bird list. Cinnamon-breasted Bunting.

Cinnamon-breasted Bunting  Emberiza tahapisi

We also found a pair of Klipspringer which surprised me before returning to camp.

Klipspringer

I was still wanting that Leopard though.

I wandered across the grassy lawn back towards the bird hide and took a few bird snaps on the way.

Blue Waxbill

Blue Waxbill   Uraeginthus angolensis

and the Crombec

Long-billed Crombec

both seen regularly so not too exciting.

Inside the hide was quite busy, maybe half a dozen people but there was enough space for all. The chap in the corner was looking through the shots he'd taken on his early drive around the loop. He'd seen a Leopard. The photo was fabulous and that just increased my frustration at not finding it!

We had some action in front of us, the Brown-headed Kingfisher had caught a Dragonfly.

Brown-hooded Kingfisher

Having battered it in to submission it was ready to try to swallow it.

Brown-hooded Kingfisher

Brown-hooded Kingfisher

It looked rather comical in the end, as if it had two ears!

Brown-hooded Kingfisher

Our next door neighbour arrived in the hide declaring that he'd just come back from driving the tar road and he'd had fabulous sightings including a Leopard. He said it was up a tree exactly 15.5kms from the end of our private gravel road. It was looking sleepy and he thought it would hang around there for some time.

That was it, on a mad impulse I set off to find it.

Did Claire want to come. She thought better of it and declined.

The gravel road is 11kms long, the speed limit 40kph max, and that's only when you can go that fast. The tar road was another 15.5m and that's a beautiful open road but, for the safety of the wildlife there's a speed limit of 50kph. A total of 26.5kms seemed to take an eternity sticking to the speed limit. I was pretty certain I'd found the correct tree but there was no Leopard to be seen. I knew it had been a silly idea really.

It got worse though, another car came along from the opposite direction and I asked them if they'd seen a Leopard. Yes, they'd seen one on a kill just off the road further back. Thanking them I set off to find it but stupidly hadn't asked how far as they'd said there were a couple of cars there.

I drove on.

And on.

And on.

Clocking up another 17 kms to the H9 without seeing a thing.

Which way now? 

I assumed they must have come from the Orpen Gate, so off I went that way.

Another 8 kms. 

This was getting very silly indeed, I was now 90 minutes from camp!!

Oh well. I had tried but that was the end of it. 

The turn off to Sable Hide is at the junction of the H14, the road I'd come down on, so I might as well take a look.

It was a huge open lake but other than a distant Giraffe that too was deserted. It was getting very hot by now. I felt a fool for making such a rash decision, the only saving grace was I got my best views and photo opportunity of a Brown Snake-eagle on the way back.

Brown Snake Eagle  Circaetus cinereus

and not being in such a rush, I investigated two places of interest on the way.

The first had a massive tusker in the near dry river bed.

Tusker

I also noted the remains of a Buffalo on the edge of the tar road too but that was no Leopard kill and it was a day or two old as well.

A little further on there's an unmarked loop road which takes you right down to the river bank and a really pretty spot to boot. It was however empty.

Back at base I explained to Claire the reason I'd been so long. I'd wasted time and fuel in to the bargain, the irony being that we'd decided to return to Phalaworba the following day anyway to stock up with a lot more provisions to enable us to carry on self catering rather than using the restaurants.

The only good news was an African Openbill had landed on rocks right in front of our chalet.

African Openbill  Anastomus lamelligerus

If I stood on the bench I could get a clear shot over the top of the electric fence too!

I wasn't to know it wasn't working was I !

In the distance I spotted a huge amount of Vulture activity. Something had disturbed them.

Vultures

Back in the hide I discovered that the gunshots I'd heard earlier was that of the Rangers. They'd taken the decision to shoot the rogue Elephant, and that was what the Vultures were feeding on.

Sad but the only course of action when it was likely to come back to camp and cause more damage.

The slightly re assuring news was that someone else had set off to find the Leopard up the tree and they too had failed to see it. It was reassuring only in as much as I hadn't missed it by finding the wrong tree.

I consoled myself with some action shots of the Pied Kingfisher and it's huge catch.

Pied Kingfisher

It still managed to swallow it. It's the equivalent of me swallowing a whole salmon!

As the sun cooled, once again, off I went in search of the local Leopard.

Claire sensibly declined to join me.

Yes, once again I failed to find it.

TBC

 

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How to find a Leopard in Kruger? By searching for the ... (just fill in any other animal) :)
The hide in Shimuwini is an excellent place to share sights & stories. 

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Great report so far... And I have e pretty good idea how you feel when you hear other peoples fantastic sightings.... I get so jealous! On a trip to Botswana we didn´t see a single dog or cat for 15 days, and then you meet people who inform you, that you just missed  a lion, cheetah, leopard or wild dog. Can´t help myself, but it affects my mood.:rolleyes:

So I really hope that your luck changed :) 

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Dave Williams

Having been told the White-backed Night Heron had arrived at 5.15 the previous day, I decided I'd get there even earlier. First in the hide, I was soon joined by the lady from Cape Town and one other.

It was still almost total darkness when the two birds flew in, landing on the small bit of beach below us.

To get an image that actually makes it look  lot lighter than it actually was took a wide open lens. I had my 500mm for the extra reach at f4. A shutter speed of 1/80th was as slow as I dared go.

White-backed Night Heron Shimuwini

You can see why in the motion blur of the birds foot.

White-backed Night Heron

Then I'd selected auto-iso. I hadn't a clue how it would turn out but considering it's ISO 25,600 it ain't too bad! A lot of folk would simply not venture in to that territory but what's the alternative? Ok, it's not a prize winning shot but at least I have a record!

I was pleased with the result , it had been worth getting up an extra 15 minutes early.

The sun had only just began to light up the sky and it was a while before it even made an appearance.First Light. Kruger National park

It's a cracking time of day to be up if you make the effort though.

I went off in search of the Leopard again.

Don't ask!!!

I didn't stay out too long, 

I think I was a bit disillusioned by now. 

I felt things were slipping away.

Oh well, the cleaners had already moved in to next door and left the bin bags they had removed from the bins to be collected by the chap who came around in his little truck.

That seemed like a bad idea and it surprised me they had done so because the minute they walked away the bin bags were attacked by a crowd of different creatures. Hornbills,Squirrels,Starlings and to my delight..Dwarf Mongoose.

Dwarf Mongoose

At first I only spotted the one but there were lots more too.

Dwarf Mongoose

We hadn't realised but their burrow was just behind our chalet.

Dwarf Mongoose

That cheered me up although I did remind myself why had the receptionist denied any wildlife was in camp. They must have known they were there.

Anyway, Claire was ready to go shopping in Phalaborwa so off we went. I promised her that I wouldn't take an hour to get to the tar road as had been the case on the first day. I drove straight there by the quickest route. I did however tell her that I had found a really pretty little spot down by the river so I was going to do a quick diversion down this loop road to show her.

There were two cars already parked down there, some 25m apart. As we edged slowly past the first one I said hello to the driver through our open window. I just got a nod back. 

As I approached the second one I spotted the driver gesticulating to stop and pointing at a bush.

WOW! I hadn't seen it, and had he not pointed, I might have driven right past.

Leopard

There he was, a magnificent Leopard, some 20 metres away and well camouflaged hidden behind the bush.

It was a truly magnificent moment after all the frustration in previous searches.

Leopard

The Leopard had been asleep it seemed but now decided to wake up. I hadn't a clue which way it would go and was delighted when he peered around the bush directly at me!

Next minute he was on the move.

Leopard

Not only on the move but coming right past me!

Leopard

Something had caught his eye.

Leopard

It might be 10.30am 

Leopard

but this supposedly nocturnal beast was in the mood to hunt!

Leopard

For a moment he had been so so close.

Leopard

Using bushes for cover he moved in to position.

So did I! I hurriedly turned the car around to favce the other way before the now other cars that had joined the sighting could block me off. I drew alongside the first car we'd passed who had also turned around. 

Leopard

He'd spotted some Impala on the other side of the river and he was hoping they'd cross.

Leopard

We were parked watching for some time. Would the Leopard make a kill?

I was sat on the wrong side of the vehicle now so it was a strain to lean across in to the passenger window to take some shots. Claire was taking a video on her iPad but the car next to us had the engine running and was making a nose as well as letting us inhale the fumes. I asked him if he could turn the engine off but he explained that he couldn't as he wouldn't be able to start it up again.

Oh well. We would just have to stick it out. Not for long as it happened because the Leopard must have decided it was time to call it a day, got up and retreated in to some bushes.

We'd seen enough so left to let someone else have our prime position.

We departed the scene ecstatic but wondering why the first car hadn't told us there was a Leopard up ahead in the first place.

Most odd, but on our way out I was able to thank the guy in the car who had given us the nod.

Shopping completed, we headed back to camp victorious.

Didn't really matter what else would happen that day although believe it or not. I did go and take another look for the local one.

and of course failed to find it!!

TBC.

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offshorebirder

Just catching back up with this report.   Nice job on the Night Heron @Dave Williams and the Leopard really treated you to a superb viewing.

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Well done with the leopard,great sighting and great photos.

Your determination paid off.

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Dave Williams

I was quite sad to be leaving Shimuwini, on balance it was probably the best camp we had stayed in so far. It has it's disadvantages in as much as it's out on a limb but on the other hand you can be out of the park and stocking up in the shops in 90 minutes too. There are not too many camps you can say that about.

Another disadvantage we found was the shortage of kitchen equipment, and we were not alone it seemed. The SanPark web site states that there isn't an electric supply  but in actual fact there is. They have now installed fridge freezers in every unit so you no longer have to rely on the communal deep freezers, if indeed they are still operational. You can disconnect the fridge /freezer for a while to recharge your batteries but not for too long of course. A power bank of sockets is an extremely useful bit of kit. A dual socket converter would solve that problem with ease and they sell them in the park shops too we later discovered. Our unit should have had the basics though, we didn't report it as we had our own anyway but there wasn't a can or bottle opener, and a new breadboard only appeared on the day we left. What was more of a concern would be the pathetic gas hobs we had in our unit. One small one, no tiny one, and one standard size one that didn't give off much heat. We had to resort to putting the casserole dish in the coals of the Braii again to get the water to boil. We had no electric kettle, microwave or toaster. None of these mattered to us because we had our braii but I would wonder what it would be like if it was raining for a prolonged period? The bigger units had a proper oven, shame the smaller ones don't.

Talking of rain I also wondered what it would be like when the water level of the rivers started to rise too. Not just here but through out the park. In exceptional times the water at Shimuwini has risen above the ground level of all the chalets, flooding them all, but that is the exception.

What would be interesting in a normal summer would be to see the level of the water as viewed from the bird hide. When the water is low the Hippos remain quite distant, they have little choice if they want to stay in a reasonable depth of water.

Hippo pool

Imagine what it would be like if they were nearly on a level with you and much closer!

Hippopotomus roar

There would be some cracking photo opportunities.

Hippopotomus roar

I have already mentioned that Shimuwini had a more social aspect too. The layout is such that it's easy to communicate with your neighbours without intruding on their space. Usually whilst using your Braii! I think the fact we'd stayed for four nights also gave you a feeling of putting your roots down for a while. I might have been obsessed by finding the Leopard but there was plenty of other wildlife on the private road. 

A large herd of Buffalo passed through over 2 days and a good number of Elephants were always a present, as were Impala, Waterbuck, and as seen by others, Leopard!

Did I try again? Silly you would doubt me!! Of course I did but only after trying for the Night Herons again.

This time though they landed on a more distant rock.

White-backed Night Heron

but they stayed put for a little longer than on the previous day. It was getting lighter still before they flew in to cover.

White-backed Night Heron

I would bet they will build a nest there as they appeared to perform a little courtship ritual which was nice to see.

Anyway, I took to the gravel road again after they disappeared and although I failed on the Leopard I was surprised to see a Hyena wander down towards me!

Spotted Hyena

It appeared to be in a world of it's own stopping only when something caught it's attention.

Spotted Hyena

After a brief pause it carried on, seemingly in a world of it's own!

Spotted Hyena

I had to change camera and lenses as it got nearer and nearer. Then I thought better of the situation, it was going to almost brush past the car so I hurriedly withdrew the lens and wound up the window a bit. I have no idea how a Hyena would react but they are pretty big and have a row of teeth to match.

Better safe than sorry! 

I have to admit I should have wound up the window fully. They also stink!!

Interestingly this was the only camp that wasn't offering any game drives and perhaps the answer was that they were in the process of installing a new camp manager. It was nice to meet her on my last morning when I went in to the hide when she was checking it out too. A delightful and very knowledgable young lady, I think she'll be a huge success and push Shimuwini on to even better things.

Back at our chalet Claire was getting ready to move. Mopani here we come!

It wasn't far so we took a diversion again en route checking out the Tsendze loop and Shipandani hide. It was notable how many Elephants were around the loop, enough to make you feel uncomfortable to be honest. You could easily find yourself trapped. Nice to see another Nyala though.

Nyala male

We'd soon discover the further north the more common they become.

The Shipandani Hide on the other hand was very disappointing with nothing much to see at all. There's a nice ford you cross the end of the small lake just before you get there and there were some Hippos in the water  so there were possibilities of something good to photograph but not just at that moment. I made a mental note to return.

Instead we took the S49 and S50 routes to check out those two gravel roads. There was certainly a lot of open space.

Dust bowl

It was very dry and very dusty.

Water tank

Elephants were gathered around the water tank.

Mud bath

Not everything can make use of them though so alternative sources are need. Judging by the surrounding dried up mud, water was disappearing fast.

In the heat of the day, there was little shade on offer.

Shade!

Sometimes it was offered by an adult to a child. Otherwise it was do the best you can.

Tessebe

Today's new animal was to be Tsessebe. Again, the further north the more we were to find them but for now it was another "lifer".

I think I was going to enjoy the surrounding area but for now it was time to check in to our new camp and get the stores refrigerated as soon as possible.

TBC

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Thoroughly enjoying your thread Dave; as always. I'm trying hard to resist looking at your Flickr page so I don't spoil the anticipation of what you might see next!

I have been having another read of your Thailand trip from 2015 though, and it's giving me some ideas for next year instead of Goa.. just need to persuade Pat now! 

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You are one persistent, and lucky chap, my friend! Now you do not need to go to Sri Lanka anymore :).

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I am also really enjoying this. Magnificent shot of the Grysbok and great sighting of the Night-herons! 

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Congratulations @Dave Williams for getting the great leopard shots. What road number was that on?

I also drove up and down the private Shimuwini road many times looking for the local leopard, I got as close as seeing the footprints in the dirt road after it had rained.

I also loved Shimuwini and it's settings - great shots of the night Heron and other birds too.

Keep up the great work - really enjoying your report mate.

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Dave Williams

@Hads The loop is unmarked but it's off the H14 going south just before the trees I had been to look at the day before. 15.5 kms south from the junction of S141. Must be the same Leopard hanging out in this area. I think it might be referred to as Ngobeni waterhole.

Yes, I spotted paw prints on the S141 too, perfectly formed they were annoyingly fresh!!

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Dave Williams

Mopani couldn't have been a better choice to follow up on Shimuwini, it was probably our favourite "main" camp. It's perfectly placed for exploring the surrounding area and the layout is such that it has a very private feel too. I had booked us in to one of the best view chalets in the camp and although it was just along from the shop and restaurant which was very convenient it was still very quiet indeed.

This was the view from our patio/covered dining area.

Mopani Rest Camp

The kitchen had everything you might need.

Mopani Rest Camp

Well, not quite but I'll tell you about that later!

There was one main bedroom

Mopani Rest Camp

and a rather tiny one with a bunk bed in it.

Mopani Rest Camp

That soon became a storage room, the beds storage perfect for my electrical gear!

Mopani Rest Camp

The bathroom was adequate, basically we were very happy!

Mopani Rest Camp

The camp overlooks Pioneer Dam, there is plenty going on down there but you need a pair of binoculars to take advantage really.

What I really liked was that there is a decent footpath that takes you down along part of the lake below.

First thing in the morning on our first day I was down there to see what I could find and it was the most productive camp of all in terms of birds.

Southern Masked Weaver

Southern Masked Weaver

Little Bee-eater

Little Bee-eater

White-browed Scrub Robin

White-browed Scrub Robin

Marabou Stork

Marabou Stork

Black-bellied Starling

Black-bellied Starling

I was flying!

It was the only camp were I could get really close to the water's edge and be at a decent level even if it meant having an electric fence in front of me.

Wood Sandpiper

Up around our chalet we did have the usual early morning alarm call of the Natal Spurfowl

Natal Spurfowl

along with the more tuneful, well in comparison anyway, Chinspot Batis

Chinspot Batis

We had 4 nights booked here and I knew I was going to be happy. Our first day started dull and overcast, slightly chilly in the wind off the dam in fact but as far as I was concerned it was a bonus. When it's dull the animals stay out longer!

Off we went again, first stop check out the small lake in front of the Shipandani Hide.

Hippos

The Hippo were closer but didn't look likely to provide much in the way of action shots.

We headed back to the H1-6 tar. The next sighting brought traffic to a standstill.

Well all two of us. We both parked across the road to make sure that this little chap made it to the other side.

Chameleon

This was all action but at a very slow pace. If you have never seen a Chameleon move they are quite weird. Every stride is hesitant but deliberate.

You can try this link to see for yourselves. 

Chameleon on the move

They are probably more common than you realise, we only saw the one, but of course they are well camouflaged. This one had the sense to keep his bush colours on whilst crossing the road rather than blending in with the tar!

Once the Chameleon was safely across the road we moved on only to stop again not too further along to offer similar protection!

 Leopard Tortoise

We turned off the road to explore again a similar path to the one the day before. The good thing about Mopani Camp is there are quite a few waterholes within a relatively short distance. During drought conditions they are of course well populated!

The Nshawu No 2 was to become a firm favourite. 

We saw our only Reedbuck there.

Southern Reedbuck

There was always something to photograph.

Red-billed Oxpecker Impala

There were a few Ostrich in the area too, not that common in KNP from our experience.

Ostrich

No, the special sighting will be revealed later in my report so you'll have to stay tuned!!!

We, for the time being, headed north then took the S143, also known as the Tropic of Capricorn Rd..for obvious reasons. It was however also a reminder that our journey through KNP had taken us further south from the Equator than we had ever travelled before.

The weather was starting to get brighter, and with it deteriorating conditions for photography which was a shame because once again heat haze proved problematic for my third and last sighting of Secretary Bird.

Secretary Bird 2

In truth I guess the grass was an equally big problem!

7M3A6205

You can see how after it has rained the whole scene would change. Views through the Mopani bush impossible, the grass green and dense.

7M3A6207

Maybe by good fortune we had chosen the right time to visit?

Maybe!

The S143 was particularly good for birds that day too.

Kittliz's Plover

A family of 3 Kittlitz's Plover the only ones I have ever seen I think.

Kittliz's Plover

A bush full of Red-head Finch

Red-headed Finch

Quite a few Namaqua Dove too.

Namaqua Dove

and lots of Sparrow-Lark that favour these dry arid conditions it seems.

Chestnut-backed Sparrow-weaver

We stopped off for the obligatory Tropic of Capricorn marker shots before returning to camp. I caught up with some post processing, but of course couldn't resist going out again for the evening session!

A stop at the Shipandani hide proved it's not good at this time of day, neither did it look too promising as an overnight stop in the hide either. It's one of two in the park that you can book and they don't come cheap either. personally I wouldn't bother.

Anyway, it's only 5 minutes up the road to Bowkerskop waterhole so perfect to catch the last of the sun, and it turned out that way too.

There were lots of Elephants at the waterhole.

Forming the circle

They jealously guard it too whilst they are there, a juvenile seems to have the responsibility of chasing all other species away.

Even a Kori Bustard was seen as a threat to supplies and wasn't allowed near.

Forming the circle

It's amusing to watch the youngsters as they approach, they get really excited and break in to a run.7M3A6350

They are made welcome of course and protected by the herd.

Thirsty Elephant

Everything else has to wait until they have had their fill and left.

The evening light was glorious though.

Tsessebe

It was a pleasure to sit and watch the comings and goings.

Black-backed Jackal

The Kori Bustard came over to investigate the few watching cars.

Kori Bustard

With the gates to camp due to shut soon I had to leave, it's amazing how quickly the light vanishes.

Mopani Rest Camp

From the waterhole in full light I arrived back at our chalet about 15 minutes later just in time to see the sun disappear for the day.

time for a beer of course, and light the Braii!i

Our day wasn't quite over yet though.

To our delight we had a visitor!

Genet

Another Genet! 

At first it stayed a bit distant..all of 10m perhaps but when I retreated from the Braii to the table to eat, the Genet got bolder.

Genet

Once again I didn't use flash but instead lay on the ground and using something for support set my camera to ISO1600 and a shutter speed of 1/6th sec. The f2.8 lens allows more light in and although there must have been a certain amount of camera shake from an inebriated photographer, they came out OK !

No, Mopani was OK and I soon got over leaving Shimuwini!

TBC.

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Hi Dave, what bushveld could did you enjoy better, Shimuwini or Talamati?

Really enjoying your report.

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Towlersonsafari

Hurrah a chameleon ! and isn't there something just fun about seeing a tortoise in the wild! @Dave Williams

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Dave Williams
2 hours ago, Hads said:

Hi Dave, what bushveld could did you enjoy better, Shimuwini or Talamati?

Really enjoying your report.

 

You'll have to wait for the end @Hads I have another one to go yet!

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Dave Williams
1 hour ago, Towlersonsafari said:

Hurrah a chameleon ! and isn't there something just fun about seeing a tortoise in the wild! @Dave Williams

 

 

The link on the second Chameleon picture does work if any one want's to see a moving one...plus my declaration of nationality and hence not understanding what I was being told!!!

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Dave Williams

For our second day at Mopani we decided to head south back to Letaba but not before I'd been to check out the path for birds. It was another dull, slightly cold and windy day. Hardly a bird in sight first thing.

Just a Black-crowned Tchagra serenading us out side our door.

Brlack-crowned Tchagra

Even the Spurfowl had disappeared! However, that might have been because there were Mongoose around too.

Dwarf mongoose

I had an early drive to check out the Pioneer Dam hide which had just one bird flying around in front of it.

Black Saw-wing

The photo isn't the best but it gives an idea of species.

Black Saw-wing

I'm thinking Black Saw-wing.

There was another,  apparently keen, birder in the hide and he didn't know what it was either. perhaps you do?

Anyway, I had an interesting chat with him during the course of which he told me his daughter is an executive with a well known travel tour company. She, he said, was totally disparaging of SANParks accommodation saying it was inferior to her standards. She, he said, would only stay in 6* places!! No doubt she gets a big discount if she pays at all I guess. Her father however was quite happy staying in the camps and said his daughter's real dislike of SANParks was probably more to the fact that they make couldn't money out of them as it's easy for people to book directly themselves!! 

Anyway, back in camp Claire was now ready for off and indeed, off we went. H1-4 tar road until we decided to take the S48 gravel road, the Tsendze loop.

Not a thing!

Back on the tar south again we looked forward to a cup of coffee at Letaba, I'd been so impressed with the one we'd had the other day. We intended risking breakfast there too but on arrival we discovered they were in the middle of a power cut. No coffee, no toasties. That was a blow!

Unimpressed by the roads just south of Letaba on our last trip, this time we decided to check out the S62 to the north but first a quick peep at the Hyena den to see if they were out to play.

Nothing!

The S62 has two side roads off it before you go right to the end and the Engelhard Lookout.

The first one took us to the Matambeni hide. The wind blowing straight at us was so cold and so strong we didn't stick it for more than a minute before retreating back to the car.

Next up was the side road to Engelhard dam.

There were some Impala there, some had Oxpeckers on them so I decided to have a play.

Impala

Up to this point I had hardly taken a single shot all day !!

Impala

The front cover of the current Kruger Magazine had a picture on similar lines although much better than mine. I was just trying to imitate it for something to do.

Red-billed Oxpecker Impala

We photographers get withdrawal symptoms if we don't get a hit on the shutter button now and again!

I settled for just a shot of the Oxpecker. 

Red-billed Oxpecker

The Kruger Magazine has a free to enter photo competition with some fabulous prizes and I thought I'd enter. Not with those though!!

Onwards we went. Next up a Lilac-breasted Roller.

Lilac-breasted Roller

More often than not they fly away when you stop to take a shot, we were already parked when this one landed. I thought it looked quite brilliant despite the poor light, even the background suited. Shame about the perched position!!

I was a bit despondent really. Another poor day on the cards. It was so windy I asked Claire was it worth going to the Lookout which no doubt would be more exposed than anywhere.

"Might as well now we are here" was her reply.

So I turned right on gravel instead of heading towards the tar again.

You immediately go down a dip and cross over the river bed on a raised but solid concrete roadway. 

It's only wide enough for one car and our progress was blocked by one that was parked there. They were busy taking photographs of a Giraffe.

We waited patiently until the Giraffe appeared to have had enough and quickly moved away.

The car in front moved on and so did we.

As we crossed a glance to my right had be totally excited.

The car in front had missed it at first but presumably seen it the minute I stopped. They stopped too.

Right next to where they had been parked.... a Lioness!

I have never been that close to a Lion before, it was a really thrilling moment.

I braked instantly, pressed the window button to wind down both front and rear windows, turned the engine off and started clicking away

Lioness

This was magical!

Lioness

Amazing.

Lioness

The big beast was up and walking

Lioness

Towards me!

Lioness

It all happened in what seemed like seconds.

Lioness

Faster than my brain responds anyway!

This huge killing machine was within just a few feet of me.

PANIC!

Was I being sized up for dinner?

Hit the window button.

NOTHING!

HELP!

Calm Dave, turn the ignition on, the window will close.

PHEW!

My heart returned to normal as the Lioness carried on walking below the car. It was only later when I looked at the photos I realised I wasn't the target at all.

Lioness

She'd seen a Zebra appear further down the river bed.

Were we going to witness an ambush?

Lioness

I managed to reverse the car back a bit.

Lioness

and wound down the nearside back window to give a photo opportunity through there should it be necessary.

BH2I5986

The Lioness went in to stalking mode.

Lioness

The Zebra seemed aware that all was not right and started to wander off further down the river bed then up the bank disappearing in to the bushes.

Lioness

The Lioness followed...................



and that was that I'm afraid.Sorry for the anti climax but you can't have everything!

We returned to camp after driving up to the Lookout which was ,as we expected, too cold to get out of the car. Besides, there was a Lioness about!!

It goes to show though, your day can turn in to something special when you least expect it to and that makes it all the more special.

That evening even the local waterhole was deserted. Seems most creatures don't like the wind too much either.

Unbelievably one had wandered in to our camp.

I'd seen Mongoose, Warthogs, Bushbucks Squirrels, Monkey and Genet in the camps on our travels but this was ridiculous!

How did this get in unnoticed through the camp gates and past the fuel station, Reception and all the other chalets before reaching us?

Surprise visitor

I mean it's not exactly tiny is it?!

Greater Kudu

When he stands up the tip of those Antlers are nearly 3m off the ground.

Good job he was totally uninterested in us, just got on with trimming the hedges around the chalet oblivious to the fact I was stood right next to it.

This wasn't the only visitor we had either.

TBC

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A hunting lioness ... a sight to remember; and you have taken plenty of photos for those times when the memories will start fading out. However I would be more afraid of the long spikes on that imposing Kudu.

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@Dave Williams Really enjoying this report. It gives a great flavour of how unpredictable being in the Kruger is without all the communication that goes on between guides in the private reserves.  Some wonderful sightings as well as the inevitable  'there was great xxx here 5 minutes ago' moments. Superb photos.

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Not sure if closing a window would help against a predator planning to attact - not even sure a predator is able recognize glass as a barrier...that being said, in over fifteen year  of repeatedly travelling to Kruger, KTP and the likes we've had numerous encounters with lions walking right next to our car (and those of others). I just don't see them attacking humans, especially not in cars. If you approached them on foot at a kill or near their young ones or while mating, possibly so.

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