Jump to content

A Return to Kenya: September 2019


TonyQ

Recommended Posts

By the way. It´s not a Scrub hare which only live in southern parts of Africa. Not East Africa. 

It´s African Savanna hare or Cape Hare. Impossible to tell as their population range overlap in Amboseli and they are very similar in eastern Africa. You need to look at the teeth to tell them apart. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 124
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • TonyQ

    55

  • mapumbo

    5

  • Atdahl

    5

  • Kitsafari

    5

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

I have saved this sighting for last, although it happened in the middle of the day. It was one of the most thrilling of the trip! A Serval It walked on the road   We

Selenkay Consevancy/Amboseli National Park   A quick car journey to Wilson Airport (The Boma Hotel is handily placed) for a 07.30 flight to Selenkay Airstrip. The plane left a bit early for

Bohor Reedbuck baby feeding Hartebeest Bushbuck - a really beautiful antelope - but I suppose they all are! Long-tailed Fiscal Vervet Monkey

Posted Images

Atravelynn

The waterholes are rivaling Etosha in Namibia.  You caught all the action, including on the draperies.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Am loving this report bc we have never been to Amboseli. Different animals and birds. Loved the waterhole priority and behavioral studies. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the great report and beautiful pictures. Hard choices to make when planning a trip to Kenya in the future.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Alexander33

@TonyQ  

 

Continuing to enjoy this very much.  The stark difference in Amboseli between the swamp and the surrounding arid areas is really apparent in your photos. I haven’t been there (yet), but it seems like all the photos one sees are of the arid parts, or occasional shot of Kilimanjaro, but I was never able to piece all the parts together until now. Thanks for this. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

@philw @Hads @Alexander33 @Biko @plambers thank you

@Atravelynn I am glad you liked the drapery!

@Antee thank you for the information on the hare

 

Travel to our next camp

After breakfast we drove towards Selenkay airstrip. We spent time looking for birds and only headed to the strip as we saw the plane heading in. It was then a 30 minute flight to Wilson Airport in Nairobi, a short wait and onto our second flight. Wilson airport is very well set up to make sure that you (and your luggage) get onto the correct flight. After about 45 minutes or so we landed at Mara North airstrip.

 

We were staying at Kicheche Mara in the Mara North Conservancy. On our previous (first) visit to Kenya about 3 years ago we had stayed at two other Kicheche camps (Laikipia and Bush) and had really liked the style of operation, the design of the vehicles, the focus on being out game viewing and the high quality guiding. We were not disappointed this time!

 

Our guide (Saruni) met us at the airstrip and we had a relatively short game drive to the camp. Kicheche Mara is in a beautiful setting with a small river running alongside it. You walk over a small bridge to get to the camp from the place where the vehicles stop.

361693875_KenyaTRMNtent-1.jpg.b7a9a9d2eb4120689930ade818c872b7.jpg

our tent - the (six) tents are well spaced out with three on each side of the central dining area

 

1583457608_KenyaTRMNzebraview-1.jpg.23983f27ebd7385e126b1f5defab5c93.jpg

View while walking from out tent to the dining area

 

We were greeted warmly, shown our tent, briefed about how the camp operated and after a brief rest we went for lunch. This was taken at an outside table (group dining) in a beautiful spot in the shade. (I will talk more about the camp and the guide later).

Edited by TonyQ
Link to post
Share on other sites

I won’t do a blow by blow account of all the game drives, but will show some highlights.

 

The first couple of posts were from the first afternoon

 

Love and Death part 1

1037928223_KenyaTRMNLionsuckling-8.jpg.e9b38a8daad9ca91b1830032f080438e.jpg

A lovely sighting of a mother suckling her two cubs

1933388752_KenyaTRMNLionsuckling-1.jpg.9c292b89420f313d4d89022035757834.jpg

 

1231914817_KenyaTRMNLionsuckling-3.jpg.306b0ba5968a3eefa296b152dc679ed5.jpg

 

417304545_KenyaTRMNLionsuckling-2.jpg.cdf74217f215a02e4d0b14a689d0ecc3.jpg

 

11750538_KenyaTRMNLionsuckling-5.jpg.4f6f1c9769f30354e61d7e488917b5ca.jpg

 

2075205782_KenyaTRMNLionsuckling-6.jpg.35952dbf9f2d23526a8f9c1afd3289e4.jpg

 

111813102_KenyaTRMNLionsuckling-4.jpg.dfbf19693eeeb4547fbf154095cf5a27.jpg

 

1681694873_KenyaTRMNLionsuckling-7.jpg.a1fb37c961142a3147f32caee49ba486.jpg

 

We were delighted to see such a scene on our first afternoon. Lovely to watch the mother with cubs and to listen to the noises they made. We may be guilty of projecting emotions but there appeared to be real tenderness and affection.  It was also really enjoyable to watch the cubs play when they had finished suckling.

Edited by TonyQ
Link to post
Share on other sites

Love and Death part 1 (continued)

 This sighting was on the same afternoon (warning, not quite so cute)

 

1019211106_KenyaTRMNcheetahkill-3.jpg.86b1bfec92d47b34bb6be1e6a4dbdcbc.jpg

Two cheetah brothers with recent kill

779739127_KenyaTRMNcheetahkill-6.jpg.2ffc54d88ec6ada6b63ac34099409f32.jpg

 

2060779607_KenyaTRMNcheetahkill-1.jpg.dd49e2580e584c626cac25ce167aac70.jpg

 

1380389932_KenyaTRMNcheetahkill-4.jpg.3f904fa6990da09f70a7b887825321c6.jpg473043045_KenyaTRMNcheetahkill-8.jpg.fc1fbfa85d8bbc7d1c559ef0b7a3f2a2.jpg

 

1610514868_KenyaTRMNcheetahkill-5.jpg.1bbccd88e45d343b006db23202e84753.jpg

 

1088715418_KenyaTRMNcheetahkill-2.jpg.da4f2bd4a48e141f92783e97a9d04b9f.jpg

 

813168942_KenyaTRMNcheetahkill-7.jpg.5483d75f2b7aa6e7c4883188d3dc37e7.jpg

 

A bit gruesome, but two beautiful cats, very well fed.

 

Two contrasting sightings but a very good introduction to Mara North Conservancy

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
Kitsafari

Somehow in my mind, i had always thought Amboseli as an entirely flat, dry and dusty place so it was a good thing that was proved wrong with your photos of the swamp. Was it a very long drive to the swamp/hill viewpoint from the Porini camp? 

 

Love the mother-cubs scenes, and those two cheetahs were very well fed (very round bellies).

Link to post
Share on other sites
pedro maia

Just catching up, great pictures as usual, those lion cubs are really cute and the cheetahs feeding are amazing.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Atravelynn

"We may be guilty of projecting emotions but there appeared to be real tenderness and affection."

I think that bond and tenderness is very real.  Adorable lion cubs and well-fed cheetah.

Link to post
Share on other sites

@Kitsafari  difficult to give a straight driving time as we did quite a bit of birding on the way to Amboseli.

I would think it probably takes about 2 hours or so, but most of it is like an extended game drive

@Atravelynn @pedro maia  thank you

Link to post
Share on other sites
AfricIan
19 minutes ago, TonyQ said:

I would think it probably takes about 2 hours or so, but most of it is like an extended game drive

 

I think you're about right there Tony, the Selenkay Conservency is, if I remember correctly, about 1hr North of the NP and the viewpoint is on the Southern side of the park so you have another hour or so "game drive" once in the park.

Link to post
Share on other sites
madaboutcheetah

Thanks for all the lovely images @TonyQ - From Serval to Cheetah to Lesser kudu!!!! to everything else ....... Awesome!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you @AfricIan

@madaboutcheetah thank you. There will be more cheetah a bit later on!

Kicheche Mara has many opportunities for birding around the camp. I could have posted many more taken around the camp but I do not want to overload non-birders!

 

The area around our tent was very good

138987218_KenyaTRMNKIchecheBIrds-1.jpg.9559f87318507def9571b50fb4cf2f91.jpg

White-browed robin-chat

496916788_KenyaTRMNKIchecheBIrds-2.jpg.a19d406d3bd5a1f06f790c23a4ac35bb.jpg

African Fish Eagle – the Vervet crept down the branch and chased the Eagle away!

 

The area around the dining area was excellent. In particular the large trees providing shade for the lunch table were visited by many different species (take your camera to lunch!)

8607465_KenyaTRMNKIchecheBIrds-5.jpg.4aa4981fe3759b70d76ef6fbdd17b7b6.jpg

Speckled Mousebird

241715169_KenyaTRMNKIchecheBIrds-6.jpg.6b636d5cf060381db1957f2cc9d1cc3f.jpg

Common Wattle-eye

2128211002_KenyaTRMNKIchecheBIrds-7.jpg.35166559a0712a21f10d1cffd9a8fe24.jpg

Spectacled Weaver

 

And there was a small river with a footbridge that led from the point where vehicles dropped you off and the short walk to the central area. The two flycatchers were both taken from the bridge.

1245088548_KenyaTRMNKIchecheBIrds-3.jpg.52cee3b3704634fa85c42a5c01fef184.jpg

African Blue Flycatcher

112174776_KenyaTRMNKIchecheBIrds-8.jpg.e578de4e1e999ece5bc79fef6a4260d8.jpg

African Paradise Flycatcher (in very deep shade)

1761728375_KenyaTRMNKIchecheBIrds-4.jpg.1b73003c57a62946e48ac7a19e7e0e7c.jpg

Long-crested Eagle (this was about 50m from the bridge, taken from our vehicle)

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Love and Death part 2

 

One morning we came across the two cubs and adult female walking purposefully. There were two other vehicles trying to follow the lions, getting views of their rear ends.. Saruni said we will look at where the lions are heading, get in front of them and wait for them to approach us.

1432424051_KenyaTRMNLionpridekill-1.jpg.041499c810ff6d76be7698b1bb361f4d.jpg

 

136741734_KenyaTRMNLionpridekill-2.jpg.9283ecd5d1761d94da4ee865a080cd70.jpg

 

Saruni then said that they were heading to somewhere important to them so we headed off to find out what this was. Again he positioned the vehicle really well.

2141405984_KenyaTRMNLionpridekill-3.jpg.644e7264c243c8399cb3f1fcf205fd40.jpg

 

19966559_KenyaTRMNLionpridekill-8.jpg.6ce985445d6989defe29410c82aa04c3.jpg

 

1494798336_KenyaTRMNLionpridekill-5.jpg.bebb159261c073f44315d8a52c518edf.jpg

The female in the front was not a core part of the pride, and sat a respectful distance for a while before edging forward and joining in

Edited by TonyQ
Link to post
Share on other sites

I have left out some of the most gory photos, but these are still pretty bloody

62002790_KenyaTRMNLionpridekill-9.jpg.1bfa68e4aaa25126b1fd3c435df5ec12.jpg

 

1500715582_KenyaTRMNLionpridekill-10.jpg.1242a6701b74d673ab5627b2f6dfae8b.jpg

 

266258963_KenyaTRMNLionpridekill-11.jpg.34cf994608dbc469558eca63cb35eb66.jpg

 

For youngsters, everywhere is a plyground

712222391_KenyaTRMNLionpridekill-4.jpg.292ebf28de33e87cc532d2637e3439f7.jpg

 

2102578744_KenyaTRMNLionpridekill-6.jpg.9f70a9193659acd3335be5079ce7d91d.jpg

 

1339073134_KenyaTRMNLionpridekill-7.jpg.e77b2cc29d22dcf9d238daba6f0f0316.jpg

 

Edited by TonyQ
Link to post
Share on other sites

And a few more. It was fascinating to watch the interactions between different cats and to see how tolerant the adults are of the behaviour of cubs

253290790_KenyaTRMNLionpridekill-12.jpg.a94eeb5ace37d46165f181e35e2e8aa9.jpg

Do the youngster still look quite so cute?

 

25588767_KenyaTRMNLionpridekill-13.jpg.a218ea928d34f72659b1a426c6902df4.jpg

 

683278200_KenyaTRMNLionpridekill-14.jpg.8adb99bfb31a0aa98c8e96c2ba30b018.jpg

 

1896663683_KenyaTRMNLionpridekill-15.jpg.9ff55a343d44432c1e10b64c83735155.jpg

 

1216030323_KenyaTRMNLionpridekill-16.jpg.22407740a8dbd05e3ecb5ceecc5c103c.jpg

 

399045162_KenyaTRMNLionpridekill-18.jpg.2251032743d83d6d9fe903058f68e6d0.jpg

 

1483172265_KenyaTRMNLionpridekill-17.jpg.298cb0b496754992b4bcda9cc7f9a31a.jpg

After all that food and excitment a sleep was called for (not for us!)

 

So lots of lions around in Mara North and lots of food. We really enjoyed this sighting. There is a rule in the conservancy that only three vehicles are allowed at a sighting and this was observed very well. After quite a long time (I just checked the timings on my photos - around an hour from first lion until last), Saruni asked us if we were happy to move as another vehicle was waiting some distance away. We were happy to leave, but could have stayed longer if we wished.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
Treepol

@TonyQ I’ve caught up with your TR just now. Your bird photos are a delight as are those of the Swamp else.

 

I think there is real tenderness shown between the lioness and her cubs, especially as she is holding one of them so close with that massive paw. What a contrast between the suckling cubs and the blood-stained meat eaters at the zebra kill. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you @Treepol

 

We really enjoyed our time in Mara North. We thought there was a good variety of wildlife and a good variety of landscapes.

 

376342106_KenyaTRMN9919-2.jpg.8007016fe5c9b31db2cc4a79bb52a14f.jpg

Some Herds of Wildebeest were around

47029876_KenyaTRMN9919-1.jpg.f7871575148917670ff2319dde2ace55.jpg

Grey Crowned Crane portrait

169964050_KenyaTRMN9919-3.jpg.4a3b26b513b0f6bde179733da53224f5.jpg

Black-winged Plover

2020104395_KenyaTRMN9919-4.jpg.0c1c17844feb045e19b8fc297be6675b.jpg

Young lion with kill

1969893714_KenyaTRMN9919-5.jpg.79b4791987db01048d730110aee395ca.jpg

 

1785137261_KenyaTRMN9919-6.jpg.615fdfa1e5dc2d4b53fb9346f63b563a.jpg

Jackal - I always enjoy seeing Jackal

83420390_KenyaTRMN9919-7.jpg.ff4e43ec7d4f33c85460e0adbda834dc.jpg

Buffalo with attendant

205336995_KenyaTRMN9919-9.jpg.c03e36e8aceffab5442f8069e10dbc7f.jpg

Elephant

1667019059_KenyaTRMN9919-8.jpg.bf56439b549670a272ffe7af6c754aef.jpg

Reedbuck (Bohor?) - with lots of flies

1075640435_KenyaTRMN9919-11.jpg.43b0ae168a5e2c48d85657802d851229.jpg

White-tailed Mongoose - as it was getting dark

154710666_KenyaTRMN9919-10.jpg.240200bc70a12b4da9847dedff497881.jpg

Topi and Sunset - we are not really into sundowners, but this one was worth watching!

Link to post
Share on other sites

On one of our days at Kicheche Mara we visited the Mara reserve. We had hope that we would see large herds of herbivores, in particular wildebeest, but this was not to be. There were very few in the reserve on the day we visited. We enjoyed the visit and had some good sightings, but we thought the wildlife viewing was better in the Conservancy.

1405629254_KenyaTRMN10919-1.jpg.f3001bccc1ad303bb38d92a0ee237140.jpg

Bushbuck – a very attractive antelope

160470162_KenyaTRMN10919-2.jpg.8a251ad5cd1742c486d2fc425f3c6251.jpg

Common Ostrich - very pink, in the mood for breeding

755114004_KenyaTRMN10919-3.jpg.d21fefbae4b7f431df5a3ee13743d077.jpg

Batleur flying over. They are fascinating to watch when they are flying – very little wing movement and the adults have a tiny tail

1185763612_KenyaTRMN10919-4.jpg.53b99d2cfad91f18e43c47914b91f88f.jpg

Common Fiscal

 

We did see some lions

1287365085_KenyaTRMNMaralions-1.jpg.b7965f7d89ce270b82a0c918844e8079.jpg

Lion with kill

240486324_KenyaTRMNMaralions-2.jpg.64606291d959f3b28856e7709f16875f.jpg

 

561107434_KenyaTRMNMaralions-3.jpg.d02b1ae7f5db79854d9a2c88b9c96baf.jpg

A family grouping, relaxing and playing

660305515_KenyaTRMNMaralions-4.jpg.df3aee4d2f5ccee97b4df4b005b757ac.jpg

 

1734953663_KenyaTRMN10919-5.jpg.fe534a105de3c2f8b046877657df97e9.jpg

Kori Bustard – a magnificent bird

2084427289_KenyaTRMN10919-6.jpg.983fa726d40b49cfa88f977e4e297efe.jpg

Vultures at kill

1785356475_KenyaTRMN10919-7.jpg.00fa03251641a88ba31fdb19fda47ffc.jpg

Hippos

1044465194_KenyaTRMN10919-8.jpg.1dff4f544be5f3976bda09dc8346f2f1.jpg

Including a young one out of the water

566900965_KenyaTRMN10919-9.jpg.a9166788cf35539033416239658407d7.jpg

Tawny-flanked Prinia

421223987_KenyaTRMN10919-10.jpg.c7b5d30e981cdf636fbb9b08c7d2d664.jpg

Black-Chested Snake Eagle - which allowed us to get very close

So an enjoyable day out - but we did miss the big herds!

Edited by TonyQ
Link to post
Share on other sites

Beautiful shots @TonyQ!  That sunset certainly WAS worth it...gorgeous.

Link to post
Share on other sites
mapumbo

@TonyQ wonderful photos.  Especially enjoyed seeing all the lion cubs.  Looked to be a plethora of them.  What fun to watch them play. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
shazdwn

Enjoying your report and photos so far, especially that sunset with topi

Link to post
Share on other sites
Zim Girl

Just catching up with this @TonyQ and really enjoying it.  Excellent sightings of the Suni and Serval on day one.

Love the Topi and sunset!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Safaritalk uses cookies to ensure you get the best experience on our website. By using Safaritalk you agree to our use of cookies. If you wish to refuse the setting of cookies you can change settings on your browser to clear and block cookies. However, by doing so, Safaritalk may not work properly and you may not be able to access all areas. If you are happy to accept cookies and haven't adjusted browser settings to refuse cookies, Safaritalk will issue cookies when you log on to our site. Please also take a moment to read the Terms and Conditions and Privacy Policy: Terms of Use l Privacy Policy