UGANDA 2020 - A TALE OF 7 SPECIALS

[xelas]

Still within daylight we have arrived at our destination, Lake Mulehe Gorilla Lodge -  http://ugandaculturallodges.com/lake-mulehe-gorilla-lodge/. 

 

 

I have to admit that long day in the back seat of the vehicle tired me, so when I have seen the sign, I have had some second thoughts about Fred’s choice. And when young boys came to get our luggage, I have had no objections.

 

 

 

 

 

The lodge is built on a very steep slope; already the construction must have been a demanding feat. Main building is positioned about halfway between top (parking) and bottom (lake). Rooms are positioned along the whole slope.  When arrived at the main building, smiling staff was handing out cold towels and cold drinks, and both were greatly appreciated! But they did not dissolve all my worries, as I have had no idea where our room was. Here Fred again took the rabbit out of his magic hat (and saved the hare).  The rooms allocated to us were only one flight of steps above the main building. Newly constructed, and quite modern, and of course, with balcony and excellent views!

 

 

 

 

Edited April 6, 2020 by xelas

[xelas]

Despite the steep slope, gardens are nicely manicured, and are attracting local birds.

 

 

WHITE-NAPED RAVEN

 

PIED CROW

 

BRONZE SUNBIRD

 

WHITE-EYED SLATY-FLYCATCHER

 

BLACK-EYED BULBUL

 

Large terrace at the main building has also a nice view over the lake Mulehe, and there is a wifi reception. Having a coffee and a wifi … that sounds good. Food was prepared by a chef, and it demonstrates this fact in its presentation. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[xelas]

Driving all the way from Ruhija, it was strange to me that someone would name its lodge after a gorilla. Who would go from there to Ruhija anyway?! But that is where Fred and his maps can give us all a better insight. He has already shared some words, and a map, in post #425. He might add some more facts here.

 

 

 

Edited April 6, 2020 by xelas

[Galana]

1 hour ago, xelas said:

Driving all the way from Ruhija, it was strange to me that someone would name its lodge after a gorilla.

It may help my explanation if I repeat the map posted earlier under Kigezi Highlands after noting that all my maps are orientated with 'north ' at the top.

@xelas 's story has now got us to the Lodge on Lake Mulehe which is shown just north of Kisoro of airport gate fame. It is certainly a long drive from our last stay at Broadbill Forest Camp which is located just north of where "The Highest point of the road" is shown in the Bamboo zone at the east of Bwindi Impenetrable.

But we are still in "The Hall of the Mountain King" by which I mean Gorilla gorilla and nothing to do with Peer Gynt. We have in fact never been too far from the edge of Bwindi and within a few kilometres to our north there are several habituated groups around the south west of Bwindi. Many of the lodges in the area that serve trekking use the word "Gorilla" in their title. Lake Mulehe is not alone.

As the Pied Crow flies we are in fact still remarkably close to Buhoma as the map shows. Indeed many active types can and do walk from Nkuringo through the forest to Buhoma 'only' 13km away.  Indeed not so many years ago I did this myself. It's a bit up and down but takes you through country that is otherwise,  er, 'Impenetrable'.  Indeed for the more adventurous there is a three day, two night trail from near Kisoro to Lake Mutanda which is crossed by makoro to a lodge on the northern shore, featured later, and from there to Nkuringo Safari Campsite (Now named Nkuringo Gorilla Lodge) and on to Buhoma on the final day. Being a considerate type I spared my companions that exercise.

As @xelas shows we have views of the Virunga which lie to the west of Kisoro where of course it is possible to trek Uganda's other Gorillas on Mount Gahinga.

Historically The Traveller's Rest In Kisoro acted as a base for Dian Fossey prior to her move into Rwanda and still takes guests to this day.

Why did I choose Lake Mulehe Gorilla Lodge for our stay down here if not for Gorillas?

Two reasons. It is a very convenient centre for the swamps and forests of the area as well as Kanaba pass and Echuya Forest Reserve.

And it is a lovely location in its own right having spent Christmas 2018 there.

Opened as recently as 2016/2017 it combines modern styles with a splendid view for a restful stay. I also knew that my companions were also showing severe symptoms of Wi-fi deprivation.

Back to Alex.

Edited April 6, 2020 by Galana
Additional updated comment.

[Soukous]

13 hours ago, xelas said:

Food was prepared by a chef, and it demonstrates this fact in its presentation. 

 

4 plates of food Alex? You were hungry?

[xelas]

2 hours ago, Soukous said:

 

4 plates of food Alex? You were hungry?

 

I was ! All the time . Meet my "alter ego" .

 

 

 

[kittykat23uk]

25 February 2020 Lake Mulehe and surrounds 

 

A few shots of Lake Mulehe started the day off

 

IMG_20200225_084649 Lake Mulehe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

IMG_20200225_085348 Lake Mulehe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Then Fred took us to a swamp, just for a change. It was round 0920 when we arrived, the sun was already high.  To be honest I really wasn't feeling it, it was soon scorching hot so whilst others took off around a papyrus bed to look for some skulky LBJ whose name escapes me, I stuck mostly to the limited shade available, drinking copious amounts of water to keep hydrated and let the birds come to me. 

 

P2250009 Hadada Ibis (Bostrychia hagedash) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

 

P2250017 Black-headed Heron (Ardea melanocephala) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2250060 Chubb's Cisticola (Cisticola chubbi) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2250112 Black-crowned Waxbill (Estrilda nonnula) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

 

P2250137 Common Waxbill (Estrilda astrild) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

I'm not 100% confident of the ID on this one:

P2250149 Little Rush-warbler (Bradypterus baboecala) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2250172 Swamp Flycatcher (Muscicapa aquatica) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2250186 (2) Fan-tailed Widowbird (Euplectes axillaris) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2250210 Augur Buzzard (Buteo augur) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2250255 (2) Mackinnon's Fiscal (Lanius mackinnoni) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2250286 Purple Heron (Ardea purpurea) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2250300 Ugandan lady by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

 

ETA, the LBJ we were looking for was apparently "white-winged warbler", we did see glimpses but I didn't get a photo.

 

 

Edited April 7, 2020 by kittykat23uk

[kittykat23uk]

I had expressed an interest in getting out on one of the lakes, so we stopped off at Lake Mutanda resort on the way back to the lodge for lunch to see if that could be arranged. Well of course it could, and we could go immediately. they would just get the boat ready. Well, it was already getting on for lunchtime, but what the hell, if you've got the option to go, go now, because you never know what the weather is going to be doing in the next hour or so. So @xelas and I decided to take the trip whilst the others relaxed on the terrace. 

 

But immediately wasn't really in the Ugandan vocabulary, so it was already really late by the time we boarded our dug out canoe. he boat trip itself was much more pleasant than the swamp, with a nice cooling breeze as our man paddled us out across the lake. We saw a few nice birds too:

 

P2250361 (2)  pied kingfisher (Ceryle rudis) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2250449 African Paradise-flycatcher (Terpsiphone viridis) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2250498 water lily by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2250514 (2) Long-tailed Cormorant (Microcarbo africanus) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2250589 Malachite Kingfisher (Corythornis cristatus) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

We also saw otters again!

 

P2250616 (2) Spotted-necked otter by Jo Dale, on Flickr 

 

And more spectacular views:

 

IMG_20200225_125430 Lake Mutanda by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

IMG_20200225_130414 Mokoro ride, Lake Mutanda by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Well by the time we got back it was past one o'clock so we headed back to the lodge for a well-deserved late lunch. 

[kittykat23uk]

As lunch was late, I think we just stayed around the lodge for the afternoon, but no matter, there were some birds to photograph.

 

P2250678 (2) Black-and-white Mannikin (Spermestes bicolor) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2250703 Pied Crow (Corvus albus) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2250763 Uganda Blue-headed Tree Agama Acanthocercus ugandaensis by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

 

I just love sunbirds, can you tell?

 

P2250719 (2) Bronze Sunbird (Nectarinia kilimensis) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2250766 Bronze Sunbird (Nectarinia kilimensis) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2250768 Bronze Sunbird (Nectarinia kilimensis) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2250799 Bronze Sunbird (Nectarinia kilimensis) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2250800 (2) Bronze Sunbird (Nectarinia kilimensis) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2250833 Bronze Sunbird (Nectarinia kilimensis) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2250884 Variable Sunbird (Cinnyris venustus) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2250916 Variable Sunbird (Cinnyris venustus) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2250927 Variable Sunbird (Cinnyris venustus) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2250938 pin-tailed whydah (Vidua macroura) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2250010 (2) P2093213 Red-billed Firefinch (Lagonosticta senegala) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

IMG_20200225_180910 Lake Mulehe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

 

[Galana]

To orientate Jo's excursion here is  a map of our drive.

Sadly Gladys does not do contours at this scale so there is no detail of the steepness of some routes. Our outbound track was up and over a very steep ridge to where we had a splendid view over Lake Mutanda, see below, and met some young schoolgirls heading for their days lessons.

Our furthest north was the swamp where the Ndego (from Lake Bunyoni) enters Mutanda and the short spur just south was Mutnda Lake Resort where we meant to have lunch and Alex and Jo went canoeing. We returned along the shore of Mutanda.

The Mutanda Lake Resort https://www.mutandalakeresort.com/ has had many names and owners since I first stayed there in 2003, such as Mgahinga Gorilla Lodge. It is a consistently nice place with fantastic views to the volcanoes reflected in the calm lake.

Location of Mutanda Lake Resort on its Peninsula.

[xelas]

Another day another swamp. It is like that when travelling with Fred. However this particular swamp was set in the beautiful area also nicknamed The Little Switzerland. This is how it looks through our eyes (lenses).

 

Our first stop was at what in Spain is called Mirador – scenic viewpoint. Kids are never far away.

 

 

 

 

 

On arrival at the swamp two doormen were waiting for us.

 

HADADA IBIS

 

HAMERKOP

 

Flying high above was a

 

BLACK-HEADED HERON

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 8, 2020 by xelas

[xelas]

Taking photos of people are much easier than chasing a LBJ through the reeds. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[xelas]

But eventually, birding was our goal, so here are some of the birds found there.

 

COMMON BULBUL

 

ARROW-MARKED BABBLER

 

BAGLAFECHT WEAVER

 

YELLOW-THROATED GREENBUL

 

CARRUTHER’S CISTICOLA

 

A BUTTERFLY 

 

 

Edited April 7, 2020 by xelas

[xelas]

From the swamp we have moved to Mutanda Lake Resort. Quite nice place, with cabins next to the lake shore, and main building on an elevated position with great view over the lake. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

With reeds also the birding was good. While Fred opted for balcony birding, Zvezda went down to the shore.

 

 

 

 

 

RED-KNOBBED COOT

 

NORTHERN BROWN-THROATED WEAVER

 

PIED KINGFISHER

 

SWAMP FLYCATCHER

 

[xelas]

Jo needed a companion for the mokoro ride so I have volunteered. These are classic, wooden mokoros and we have stayed on the water a little more than an hour. I have had some problems with my camera but even though, a few good photos, and a pleasant ride was worth the price we have paid.

 

 

 

AFRICAN PARADISE FLYCATCHER

 

STRIATED HERON

 

LONG-TAILED CORMORANT

 

WATER LILY

 

 

Only one island is permanently inhabited yet there was quite some traffic on the lake.

 

 

 

 

 

Afternoon was spent on the balcony. It was another great day in Uganda.

[TonyQ]

Beautiful photos of the birds, people and landscapes.

Those lodge steps look extremely steep

[pedro maia]

2 hours ago, xelas said:

Our first stop was at what in Spain is called Parador – scenic viewpoint.

 

Mirador .

[Galana]

1 hour ago, TonyQ said:

Those lodge steps look extremely steep

They are OK. You only use them to go out and return and the staff carry luggage. Also to the left as you come up, right as you look down, there is a path with no steps that is slightly easier on the knees!

[xelas]

8 hours ago, pedro maia said:

 

Mirador .

 

Mirador, yes. And Parador is ?? A type of an accommodation if I am not mistaken again, @pedro maia. Thanks for correcting me, now I know at least 1 person is actually reading my words .

[Soukous]

You must have been very excited to find  a Common Bulbul on your chase through the reeds. 

[pedro maia]

50 minutes ago, xelas said:

 

Mirador, yes. And Parador is ?? A type of an accommodation if I am not mistaken again, @pedro maia. Thanks for correcting me, now I know at least 1 person is actually reading my words .

 

Yes, Parador is a type of hotel https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parador.

[xelas]

2 hours ago, Soukous said:

You must have been very excited to find  a Common Bulbul on your chase through the reeds. 

 

Didn't Fred told you that I have taken many photos of AFB (Another Fabulous Bulbul) ?

[Galana]

57 minutes ago, xelas said:

AFB (Another Fabulous Bulbul) 

Obviously something lost in translation.

 

BTW. Your "Butterfly" is an African Ringlet. I am sure you will feel better for knowing that.

[Chakra]

@xelas : our mutual friend only stays at luxurious  Parador hotels when he goes to Andalucia for his birding trips . I have to say those hotels are spectacularly positioned indeed and do have a "Mirador" . My only experience is the one in Ronda made famous by Hemingway. Next time you must splurge.

 

The crane photo was so razor sharp that it made a hole in my PC monitor screen. I'm sure the national bird will be pleased. 

 

@Galana  I'd love to cast my eyes on that  mountain view some day.  Stupendous. Just wondering is that a part of the Rwenzori range or the "Mountain of the moon" ?  That name itself is a draw to any landscape lover. 

[Galana]

2 hours ago, Chakra said:

@Galana  I'd love to cast my eyes on that  mountain view some day.  Stupendous. Just wondering is that a part of the Rwenzori range or the "Mountain of the moon" ?  That name itself is a draw to any landscape lover. 

No sir.

The mountains in the view are a group of Volcanoes called "Virungas". They do link with the Mountains of the Moon  and indeed the DRC call their whole range "Parc National des Virunga". In turn the Rwandans call their group "Parc des Volcans". This thread is not the forum for a lengthy treatise on the geology of this interesting area so briefly all I can say is that they are all part of the unstable  walls of the Albertine Rift Valley and even that merits further explanation. Concisely the Rwenzoris are on the west of the rift and Virungas are on the eastern side. The rift floor being the line of great Lakes from Albert, Edward, Kivu to Tanganyika and even that is dangerously vague.

The whole area is volcanic in origin and literally littered with extinct, dormant and active volcanoes.

Sadly for the tourist it is harder to get a glimpse of Ptolomy's  Mountains of the Moon as they are more often shrouded in cloud but they are snow covered when you do..

Do try and visit them soon. The view of the Virungas is equally impressive from the Rwandan side too.

As with @xelas and @Game Warden's indulgence I can show on an earlier visit taken from Foyer de Charite in Rubondo, Rwanda.

 

Edited April 8, 2020 by Galana
Additional photo.