A Walk on the Wild Side in Timbavati and Sabi Sands

[mopsy]

Thoroughly enjoying your report @LarsS as I stayed at Arathusa 10 years ago, great to read reports about places previously visited.

 

Like others I am staggered you and the guide were on a walk without an armed guide as well? Seems strange they would allow that to happen.

 

Glad to hear you survived to tell the tale though, and what a tale it is!

[LarsS]

Thanks @Atdahl, @jeffb, @Toxic, @BRACQUENE, @madaboutcheetahand @mopsyfor your sympathy. Overall I am doing very well right now. It took a couple of weeks to recover from it, it definitely was the worst the first two or three weeks. People ask if I have a trauma or nightmares and also assume how terrified I must have been. The strange thing is that I don't really feel that way. I think the moment itself was so short, may be just 20 seconds from realizing we were in trouble until the buffalo charged. Almost no time to be terrified, maybe to short to be scared long after the incident. Having said that, there has not been a day yet I haven't thought about it.

 

This is maybe weird to say, but I actually came back to myself pretty quickly. And from the next day it felt a it surreal. I was so aware in the moment I might die in a few seconds and afterwards as well, but from the next day it seemed all so far away and I had expected to feel totally different after an experience like that. I even talked to my wife about it, that it's almost like I feel I'm missing out on something, shouldn't I've had some sort of epiphany or something in that direction. Maybe that's all because I struggle to determine in which way I want to develop myself in life and work. It's not that I'm disappointed about it, I would have thought it would have done something to me. Mostly I'm glad I don't feel scared about safari (we even did go out in the afternoon, more on that later) and I also believe I would go on a walking safari again, although it probably depends a lot on the situation.

 

 

First: sorry I forgot to mention the guide, he had a big wound in his leg and was treated for it. He was back at the lodge at the end of the afternoon and was doing ok.

 

Before I share some more details and to answer questions, I want to say I don't feel like I'm in a position to point blame at someone, as my knowledge how to handle situation like these is very limited and I've never used a rifle myself. Also, the moment things started to escalate is blurry. And last but not least, the guide and camp is not on this forum (I think) so can't share their view on the situation. Also, this was clearly a situation that could have turned out to be fatal for the guide as well, so without saying he did it good or bad, it obviously was a situation he wanted to avoid as much as I did.

 

Once we got back to camp, the management couple did their absolute best and were willing to do anything for me. I choose not to go to a hospital, but they did offer me to bring me where I wanted. My wounds weren't deep and were treated by management, disinfected and they put something on it that made the (light) bleeding stop. Also the rest of the day they looked after me very well. We were offered a private drive in the afternoon with another guide. Management did also take the incident very serious. They took statements of me and the guide and also went back to the location to do some more research. That's when they found my cap and sunglasses that I had lost. So, the incident was very bad ofcourse, but the care afterwards was very well.

 

 

So, about the incident. It was only me and the guide, the guide having years and years of experience in bushwalks. He carried a rifle with him. But the moment it all went wrong, that happened so fast. That part is also a bit blurry. I can't tell if he reach for his rifle or the buffalo charged so fast there was no time to do anything about it. Then basically you are just on your own. Whether the guide was in front or in the back of me, that wouldn't matter a lot. I think we were about 15meters away from the buffalo. There might not have been time to get the rifle and shoot. (Knowing how things turned out, I'm actually glad the buffalo wasn't shot because some people took a risk by walking in the bush)

 

 

Since we've returned, we've been in contact with management a couple of times as they wanted to know how I was doing. It was a shock for them as well this happened. Very nice of them to stay in touch and showing they cared.

 

This did cut our safari short, as you can understand. We were supposed to stay two more nights, but decided to leave the next morning. I wasn't in a shape I could enjoy it longer and also not fit enough to leave camp in the morning, drive back to Jo'burg and fly home all at the same day. A bit too stressful and too much to ask for.

 

Once at home, I wanted to see the general practisioner, but we had to quarantine for at least 5 days. Imagine the face of the assistent when I called for an appointment, saying I was attacked by a buffalo in South Africa and therefore would like to have a check as soon as possible despite quarantine. After a few moments of silence, she discussed it and I was allowed to go to the covid-hour. Not something I was very happy with, as the last thing I wanted was to cough... I did understand the precautions ofcourse and when I showed up there wasn't really anything to worry about. The gp wore a protective suit and nobody else was inside. The only thing I don't understand, was why I thought it was a good idea to go their on foot, doing a 10min walk in 20minutes...

 

On 9/19/2021 at 10:54 PM, Atdahl said:

That is utterly terrifying @LarsS.  So, glad that you didn't get more hurt.  I assume your guide ended up being OK?   

 

You did have a daytime honey badger sighting though...does that ease the pain at all? 

 

 

Yes, even when I got back to camp, I had mixed emotions about the walk. Even when I was being treated I could talk enthusiastically about the giraf and honeybadger sightings. That was an incredible experience to them so close and in the day. The guide was so excited as well, that made it even more special, because we really shared that sighting with only the two of us and realized how special it was. Such a joyous moment.

 

On 9/19/2021 at 11:02 PM, jeffb said:

So glad nothing got broken and you weren't more seriously injured.

So it was just you and the guide, no armed ranger? And when you ran from the buffalo, the guide was in front of you? Sounds like incredible negligence on the guide's part.

I'm amazed nothing got broken as well. If I think back at how I broke my wrist or foot, those were innocent incidents playing football. A big accident like this and nothing broken.

 

On 9/19/2021 at 11:15 PM, Toxic said:

Wow @LarsS- not many people get attacked by a buffalo and live to tell the tale. So glad to hear it wasn't worse.   Definitely delaying doing a walk on safari until I lose the extra lbs gained during the long lockdowns!!  Did you hear about the guide - were they ok? 

 

I also thought these walks had to be escorted with an armed guard in case something like this happened;  is that not always the case? It rather sounds from your recollection that it was a bit chaotic and the guide just ran off and left you to fend for yourself!

 

On another note, because I want to acknowledge this, your leopard photos and video are beautiful - that is a mighty fine brother and sister!

Yes, I realize most people end up way worse then I did. I need to explain myself a few times since I didn't carry a bag and walked real slow. Some people's jaw fell wide open on the floor when they heard the story and saw me standing in front of them.

 

Don't mind the lockdown lbs, they are most likely to give you some extra protection. Without, you're still not outrunning a buffalo (or probably any other animal). I don't mean that to scare you, but it's just a fact. Most of the times walks go well and wouldn't advice anybody to avoid it. Just make sure you feel confident with the guide and ranger you're going on a walk with.

 

Thanks for your compliments about the leopards, it was such an amazing sighting and yes, they looked well in shape!

 

 

On 9/20/2021 at 5:47 AM, BRACQUENE said:

@LarsS

I had to catch up a bit with your excellent report after being away and did it early this morning until I came to the final part which like all the others who read it until now made my shiver and for a moment I thought it was not real after that almost idyllic start … extremely happy you are still with us of course but I have never been on a walk be it a short one without an armed ranger or armed guide sometimes both and improvisation in this sort of situation in the African Bush is simply not done 

 

Glad to hear you enjoy it. Yes, thinks changed for the worse pretty quickly, but luckily not too bad after all. The guide did have a rifle, so we were prepared, but somehow he did/could not use it.

 

On 9/20/2021 at 8:27 AM, madaboutcheetah said:

@LarsS- Wow!!! What a close call that was! Hope you feel better soon ....... sorry about the accident, but, as the others say thank God you are safe! 

 

Was it just the guide alone on a walk? was he armed?  Still not much he can do with a charging buffalo at close range, possibly..

 

That's exactly what I'm not sure of, was there time to take the rifle and shoot? It all happened so fast.

 

 

4 hours ago, mopsy said:

Thoroughly enjoying your report @LarsS as I stayed at Arathusa 10 years ago, great to read reports about places previously visited.

 

Like others I am staggered you and the guide were on a walk without an armed guide as well? Seems strange they would allow that to happen.

 

Glad to hear you survived to tell the tale though, and what a tale it is!

 

Nice to hear you enjoy it and also having stayed at Arathusa. It was my second time here and for most of it, it was great to be back.

[ForWildlife]

Glad it wasn't worse! Given your bruises I'm pretty sure he really knocked you out of his way, and you were lucky he then kept going! I've walked many hunderds of kilometers in the African bush, and the one thing which always worries me is single buffalo bulls as you can just walk into them without hearing them, or oxpeckers and without seeing them. Luckily I never have!

Glad you are OK.

[BRACQUENE]

@LarsS

  I am glad to read that your guide was armed and precautions were taken which from your original post wasn't clear to me ; I sincerely hope you will be able to give a place to this terrible event : if needed it shows again that going on safari and especially walking is never without risk !

[LarsS]

52 minutes ago, ForWildlife said:

Glad it wasn't worse! Given your bruises I'm pretty sure he really knocked you out of his way, and you were lucky he then kept going! I've walked many hunderds of kilometers in the African bush, and the one thing which always worries me is single buffalo bulls as you can just walk into them without hearing them, or oxpeckers and without seeing them. Luckily I never have!

Glad you are OK.

 

Thanks! I've been thinking that my luck could have been that the guide was running in front of me as well. There was still something for the buffalo to charge to. Not that I wish that for the guide ofcourse, but it could have made the bull lose interest in me at that point.

 

The only thing I do think  we should have done better is realizing the buffalo was in that area. We'd seen it during breakfast getting a drink on the other side of the waterhole. We left camp at the front and before I noticed we walked towards the waterhole I didn't think about it until it was too late. But yeah, once we were in that area, the buffalo was hiding / standing still behind some bushes. With only the two of us walking, he might not have noticed us either until we were close. He was facing us butt first at first sight, so didn't expect us to be there.

 

14 minutes ago, BRACQUENE said:

@LarsS

  I am glad to read that your guide was armed and precautions were taken which from your original post wasn't clear to me ; I sincerely hope you will be able to give a place to this terrible event : if needed it shows again that going on safari and especially walking is never without risk !

 

Sorry that it was unclear. That is also because it is standard equipment on a walk. Walking is definitely not without risk, but except for this moment, I've never felt unsafe on any of my walks before. Next time I probably decide based upon how I feel about the area, guide and if a ranger is coming or not.

[Toxic]

@LarsSthank you for following up and for sharing your experience with us.  I think it is so interesting that despite this experience you are open to going out on a drive and perhaps a walk again in the future - a testament to how much you love the bush. 

 

Yes point taken on the extra padding perhaps being beneficial  It's weird because I think if I ever do a walk I would be more scared of meeting a buffalo or a hippo more so than anything else because of how notoriously grumpy they are! 

 

I am glad you felt taken care of and you are feeling better. I think you will be thinking about it for a while yet. As you have rightly pointed out these are wild animals and we are their guests so it isn't a no risk scenario regardless of your chosen activity. 

 

[ForWildlife]

21 hours ago, LarsS said:

 

Thanks! I've been thinking that my luck could have been that the guide was running in front of me as well. There was still something for the buffalo to charge to. Not that I wish that for the guide ofcourse, but it could have made the bull lose interest in me at that point.

 

The only thing I do think  we should have done better is realizing the buffalo was in that area. We'd seen it during breakfast getting a drink on the other side of the waterhole. We left camp at the front and before I noticed we walked towards the waterhole I didn't think about it until it was too late. But yeah, once we were in that area, the buffalo was hiding / standing still behind some bushes. With only the two of us walking, he might not have noticed us either until we were close. He was facing us butt first at first sight, so didn't expect us to be there.

 

 

Sorry that it was unclear. That is also because it is standard equipment on a walk. Walking is definitely not without risk, but except for this moment, I've never felt unsafe on any of my walks before. Next time I probably decide based upon how I feel about the area, guide and if a ranger is coming or not.

 

Achteraf is het makkelijk praten .

I hope you're prepared to tell the story many many times. I'm sure it will cause some silences over dinners, breakfasts and campfires on future safaris (and elsewhere)! You're very lucky it ended up as a story with a good end, but a dramatic story with a good end, is often a good story.

[marg]

@LarsSthank goodness your guide and you are okay!

[Kitsafari]

what a scarifying experience @LarsS. I'm so relieved you and your guide did not obtain more serious injuries although I'm sure those injuries must have caused so much pain already. I'm so glad you came out of it safe, and can talk about it. I suppose we are guests in the wildlife's backyard and no matter whether we are in the vehicle, or walking or on a boat, there will be always be risks. It sounds like the guide made all the precautions he needed but there's just no failsafe situations anywhere. i always recall how a guide told us he was walking with another person, who was just as experienced as he was, when he was with a anti-poaching team, and they walked into the middle of a pride of sleeping lions. luckily the lions  were very sleepy and only curious and he and his colleague managed to get out safely.

 

I hope you are fully recovered.

 

Would you go for another walk on safari again, though?  

[LarsS]

Thanks @margand @Kitsafari

 

On 9/25/2021 at 11:03 AM, Kitsafari said:

they walked into the middle of a pride of sleeping lions

that's quite the event as well. but yes, it shows you can always end up in a situation you do your best to avoid, no matter how much experience. then it comes down to your ability to deal with it and get out safely.

 

On 9/25/2021 at 11:03 AM, Kitsafari said:

Would you go for another walk on safari again, though?

Yes, I would. But probably first need to get to know the guide and area first from the car. Then I can decide whether I feel comfortable to do it again.

[LarsS]

Afternoon Gamedrive - July 31st

 

After the eventful morning, we did decide we would leave the next morning, instead of staying for another full day day and night. But we also decided that we didn't want to leave with the last memory being the incident. In hindsight, the stifness still had to kick in at that moment and with a good dosis of paracetamol and ibuprofen (painkillers) I was good(ish) to go out again. We had a private car with another guide, so we could decide ourself how long we would like to stay out and what we wanted to see.

 

When we made plans, I was happy if we would just went out for half an hour, look at a few impalas and go back. But the painkillers made me feel optimistic enough, so when guide Roy asked if there was anything in particular we wanted to see, I replied: the leopard cubs. It was going to be a bit of a drive, but we really were eager to try if we could see them.

 

Just before we would leave, a few elephants came out to drink at the waterhole.

 

Soon, more arrived and eventually it was a herd of about 50 ellies. That was our cue to get in the car and see them from closer range.

 

A few ellies were playing and chasing each other. I must admit, with the incident fresh in my mind, I was scared a bit even though they were over 100m away. Quickly I lost my nerves and could enjoy the herd walking along the waterhole.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The elephants moved on and we had a nice look at the camp with the hippos on the island in the middle of the waterhole.

 

 

We continued and drove straigh towards the leopard cubs. Roy made a few calls, as normally the guides of the concerning property would go first and then inform the other guides in the area if they were visible and who was allowed to go in. Luckily we were as well and together with one other car the first ones to go in. We were lucky as the cubs were visible. While my wife, the guide and the tracker were all seeing the first cub, I was totally in the blind. The cub blended in very well, but finally I spotted it.

 

Can you blame for missing it when the first sighting was like this?

 

 

The cub was moving a bit in the tree, giving us some better views. Surprisingly it looked like it wanted to come down. Guide Roy informed us they usually come down at that time of day to play around. But although I didn't see the cub at first, I could tell Roy it wouldn't be wise, as I'd seen a hyena in the bush about 10m away when we drove in. Still, the cub went down, but it was not to play. Probably climbed up another tree immediately after coming down.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our time was up and another 'resident' car went in, which made us leave due to the one car policy. However, Roy had a little trick up his sleeve and parked the car on the other side of the riverbed / drainage from where we had a view on the other leopard cub.

 

 

 

 

 

MISSION ACCOMPLISHED! So glad we decided on going out on a drive this afternoon!

 

So, now we were happy to return to camp, you might think. But we were enjoying the bush, so we weren't in a rush. Soon we were tipped for another leopard sighting. A male and a female, on the move and mating. So that would be an interesting sighting. We took our time to enjoy it to the fullest. And also because the leopard were apparantly keen on a bit of privacy, as they turned their backs towards us the first couple of times they did their business. It was a well looking couple of leopards.

 

We followed the male who for our convenience just followed the road. After each time they mated, the female wandered off a bit, but never too far. The male was (un)patiently waiting for her to come over. At the end, we were lucky enough to have parked the car in the right spot to have a view from the side.

 

Prepare for a leopard overload of photos.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So glad we decided on going out on a drive this afternoon!

 

 

Roy offered to stop somewhere for a sundowner or to stop somewhere where we couldn't get out and skip drinks. Although sundowners are nice, the latter sounded way more interesting.

 

Roy took us to... another leopard sighting! This time it was dinnertime. Ribs, anyone?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So glad we decided to go out on a drive this afternoon!

 

Now it really was time to head back to camp and enjoy our last diner at Arathusa. Or was it?

 

We turned onto the main road for a pretty straightforward drive back to camp. We were happy with all the leopard sightings of this afternoon, not to forget the elephant herd at the start. Then, in the distance something run across the road into the bush. Hard to see what it was, it was quick and only just within reach of the lights of the car. We thought it might have been a hyena, but weren't sure. We were sharp to see if there were more animals coming and shortly after there were. Dogs! A pack of wild dogs came out of the bush on our left and ran into the direction we had seen our unknown animal go into the bush. We didn't know whether they were chasing something, although hunting at night was unlikely, or if they maybe were following others from their pack to find shelter for the night. But it was a really cool and unexpected sighting. To not disturb them, we didn't put a light on them, apart from checking where they went and to see if we could continue safely.

 

A few snaps from the video I took in the hope of catching something. It's not great, but it's a bit. You can see how close to the car they suddenly appeared before running away from us and head into the bush a little further down the road.

 

 

 

 

 

Did I say yet that we were glad we decided on going out on a drive this afternoon?

 

It really was a special drive and when you consider we would have been happy with 'just' a few impalas, our expectations were very much exceeded! We didn't cut our drive short and stayed out for the full 4 hours. I felt okay during the drive, but once I had to disembark back at the camp, I could feel what was coming for the next few days and weeks. Going out maybe wasn't a wise decision physically-wise, but mentally probably it was and boy were we spoiled to have a last drive like this!

 

 

Back at camp we were the only guests (there were more, but they were staying at a family/group house and had their diners and drinks over there. We had a good meal and were looked after very well again. Straight after diner we went back to our room to have a shower and get some well needed rest. The main area of camp closed minutes after we left. But when I went outside for a shower half an hour later, I could hear several people talking loudly / excited. I thought the guests from the family house went to the bar in the main area, but at the same time it was very unlikely. There were more noises, but I couldn't figure out what is was. I wasn't in the mood to check it out as taking a shower was taking enough effort for that day.

 

The next morning we found out what the commotion was. Hyenas were chasing an impala and killed it on the lawn in the middle of camp. The other guests were still up and were aware what was going on. So they went down to 'our' area of the camp and took some photos and videos of that sighting. What a wild location Arathusa is!

 

 

 

[Toxic]

What an epic way to end an eventful journey @LarsS- more lovely leopard photos (they are very good looking ones, can see why they are getting it on with each other - to make beautiful cubs ) and how special to get such a good look at that sweet furry baby in the tree! 

 

Love the elephant herd enjoying the watering hole too.  Definitely a safari to remember! Thank you for sharing it with us, and hope you're feeling a little better since the last time I was in this TR. 

[Kitsafari]

what an excellent ending to your trip, taking away some of the the bad memories.

 

I enjoyed the leopard shots!

[marg]

Yes!  Best to end on a happier note.

[mopsy]

That sure was an epic drive to finish off with!

[Kalaharikind]

What an amazing trip! Elephants, rhino, lions and leopards and wild dogs, jumping impala... and buffaloes,of course.

 

I had a good chuckle about your crested barbet ID skills - well done!

 

I'm really glad to hear that both you and the guide are ok after that encounter. And kudos on going back to the bush right after that experience - it shows your deep love for this wild and unpredictable continent. I can just imagine your future safari fireside chats... 

[Athene]

What an exciting trip you had @LarsS

I am glad to hear that you are ok, but I am having second thoughts now about our first walking safari next year. Maybe I should stick to a vehicle safari

[Biko]

@LarsS I have just finished reading the last part of your TR. Such a horror story, that sure was a narrow escape. It’s great though that you were able to go out again in the afternoon, and end your trip in a good vibe. It is a reminder for me too that walking is never without risk, as is going on safari in general. Until now I might have been inclined to go on a walk with a Masai with only a spear, but going with a guide and an armed ranger makes much more sense after reading your story. I hope you won’t have any nightmares after this terrible incident. Take care.

[Zubbie15]

I've finally caught up on your report @LarsS, you certainly had a memorable trip. It's really fortunate you were able to end on a high note after the harrowing encounter with the Buffalo! Thanks for sharing. 

[Peter Connan]

What a story to tell! I too am very glad you are alive and relatively un-harmed to tell it. Buffalo are incredibly powerful, I guess we have all seen videos of them tossing fully-grown lions high up into the air.

 

With regard to the behavior of the guide: none of us can predict how we will handle a situation like that. Not even if we have been in a similar situation before. At that moment, one is probably not thinking but merely reacting. Certainly the response will be influenced by training, but it remains unsure. I suspect his action was not the result of a conscious thought process evaluating whether or not he had enough time to use the rifle, but I could be wrong too. For what it's worth, depending on what rifle ha had and in what condition he was carrying it, it could take anywhere between 1 and 20 seconds to fire a shot. 20 is unlikely though, that amount of time would only be required if he was carrying the rifle slung over his back and the ammunition in his pockets rather than in the rifle's magazine or chamber/s. Let us just say if a guide is not expecting trouble he is unlikely to be able to react in time to a situation like you describe.

 

[Atravelynn]

Petting an African wildcat?  I guess that is how cats became domesticated so long ago.  What an experience!

 

Hard to watch the limping lion in the video, but good to know it was not thought to be a serious injury.

 

That pot is a top sighting.  Cool!

 

How nice your rhino encounters on foot ended with the rhinos being relaxed, even if it meant you had to view from 100 meters.

 

Oh my goodness, the buffalo incident.  That you and the guide survived and are ok is most important.  When you alerted the guide, it may have saved you both.  How absolutely terrifying.  It reminds me of something I read and also experienced in a car accident. "I only had time to say hello to death, but did not have to invite it in."   I can hear the buffalo hooves you describe hitting the ground and the scream of the guide.  Gives me chills just to think about it.  A Walk on the Wild Side Indeed.  I'm sorry you were in pain for quite a while and had to cut short your trip, but at least you did recover and it appears the guide did as well. What are the odds you would both be ok?  Probably not very high but you beat them.  I wonder if the buffalo consciously spared your lives or just caused enough havoc and decided to move on.  We'll never know.

 

 

Edited October 9, 2021 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

On 8/29/2021 at 8:20 AM, ElenaH said:

@LarsS, thank you for the report - I am following it with a big interest.

 

Do you have a pic of resident wild cat? I am curious because you mentioned it is used to people, this is like cats got domesticated... 

I made the exact same comment.

[Atravelynn]

On 9/30/2021 at 2:01 PM, Athene said:

What an exciting trip you had @LarsS

I am glad to hear that you are ok, but I am having second thoughts now about our first walking safari next year. Maybe I should stick to a vehicle safari

Where is your walking safari?  You could even mention your concerns to your guide and perhaps certain locations or routes would not be chosen.  This unfortunate incident can be lumped in with auto accidents that sadly occur and we hope to avoid.  Sometimes a scout is used along with the guide on a walk for additional trained eyes.  You could inquire about that.

[Athene]

@AtravelynnWe will be in Mana Pools, staying in Goliath camp and Chikwenya camp with Doug Macdonald, who is guiding us. I have already told him that this will be my first walking safari and that I am a bit anxious. I know you have also been guided by him and enjoyed it a lot. I am trying to stay positive and I am sure Doug will do anything to avoid dangerous encounters.

[madaboutcheetah]

@Athene- we were with Doug in Mana a few years ago (2016 I think) can’t be in better hands on a walk!! Absolutely no drama getting too close to dangerous animals. So he’s guiding you from Goliath camp? Good idea!!