Touched by an Elephant

[Tom Kellie]

~ @Atravelynn:

 

This trip report is truly the gift that keeps on giving, in the very finest sense.

 

The Nairobi National Park images are superlative examples of game drive photography.

 

My several happy stays in the same locale have never yielded such high quality photos.

 

This trip report manages to simultaneously be cozy, inspiring, educational, and just plain charming.

 

No particular favorites as the quality is consistently excellent.

 

Please return soon to Africa so that there'll be another trip report of comparable quality.

 

          Tom K.

[Atravelynn]

8 hours ago, Tom Kellie said:

~ @Atravelynn:

 

This trip report is truly the gift that keeps on giving, in the very finest sense.  Thank you so much!

 

The Nairobi National Park images are superlative examples of game drive photography.

 

My several happy stays in the same locale have never yielded such high quality photos.  Those of us who had been to Nairobi National Park before all said we felt like we were seeing more animals on this visit.  More animals means more potential good photos.  I hope our observations are right.

 

This trip report manages to simultaneously be cozy, inspiring, educational, and just plain charming.  Cozy!  Yes, that is a good word for this itinerary and especially how we all felt at the properties for the elephant orphanages. 

 

No particular favorites as the quality is consistently excellent.

 

Please return soon to Africa so that there'll be another trip report of comparable quality.  Well, interesting you bring that up and thank you for your compliment in advance.  Maybe this should be its own post.  In fact I think you have given me the push I need to make it a new post/question.  I have a Feb 28, 2022 departure to South Africa--a trip booked way back in June 2019 and rescheduled, now,  for a 3rd time.  I have to make a decision by Dec 28 on whether to go or not because final payments are due.  There are some sunk funds of several thousand that I doubt I can recoup no matter what I do.  Trip insurance would not refund them when covid struck, but I have been able to push the trip forward  2x and not lose those costs if I fly out on Feb 28.  New final costs would be about $2000 for land and I'm hoping I can get a refundable air ticket.  So I think I'll go forward with the travel plans and consider it a $2000 gamble that things will be better by Feb 28.  I'm double vaxed and boosted.

 

          Tom K.

 

Edited December 24, 2021 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

Day 3 Oct 29

After our morning game drive in Nairobi National Park, Alan of Gamewatchers drove us from Ololo to Utamaduni Craft Center in Nairobi for lunch, a 90-minute affair, 60 minutes of which was waiting for our food and watching others who arrived after we did, being served first.  But on the bright side we were entertained during this wait with some interesting tales of Jane’s earlier years that could be a Lifetime Channel special feature.

 

Utamaduni cafe grounds

 

Then it was on to Runda B&B in Nairobi. Our orignal plans had us landing at the airport and spending the first night at Runda B&B, but the only direct flight from the US to Nairobi required us to fly out a day earlier.  Runda B&B  had lots of stairs inside and out, a castle-like interior, a waterfall, excellent homestyle food prepared by a delightful chef, friendly dogs, and a kinda weird vibe that we all noticed.   The dogs actually paused patiently on each step when Jane ascended or descended the towering stairs, as if to offer encouragement and reassurance.

 

Runda B&B Grounds

 

Day 4 Oct 30

Nicholas joined Alan so both Gamewatchers guides were now part of our team, each driving an 8-passenger Land Cruiser with a poptop that fit 6 guests comfortably.  Alan drove the supply and luggage vehicle between destinations. Nicholas drew the short straw and was stuck with all of us. The two vehicles served us well during the trip, not only to comfortably transport 6 passengers, all our gear and provisions, but two vehicles with guides allowed for more flexible game drive options. @penolva, I'd be interested in your vehicle setup and if you used one or two vehicles.

Kimana House grounds

 

One short stop and 6.5 hours after leaving Nairobi we arrived at Kimana House in Kimana Sanctuary, a Masai-owned conservancy.  What an appealing accommodation on lovely grounds with a babbling brook plus a most accommodating staff.  The food was superb, thanks to the talented chef, and the drinks were hilarious. We’d order 3 Diet Cokes from the provisions we had brought and 2 white wines would appear at the table with an announcement to take note of the ice cubes that were clinking in the glasses. No one ever went thirsty; no wine was ever sent back and we all had some laughs between bites of the exquisite cuisine.

Kimana House veranda for relaxing or for group tai chi.     Left to Right:  Nancy, Sangeeta, Claudia, Jill.  Jane and Lynn are not pictured.

 

 

 

Red-chested Cuckoo on Kimana House grounds

 

 

Pied wagtail on Kimana House grounds

 

It is possible to see Mount Kilimanjaro from Kimana and we managed a glimpse.  While some photographs show majestic elephants or graceful giraffes in front of the imposing mountain, our only fauna-Kili compositions contained vultures. 

Kilimanjaro, seen on our evening of arrival to Kimana at 6:05 pm

 

 

Vultures in front of Kili, seen on our evening of arrival to Kimana at 5:45 pm

 

Kimana Sanctuary is an important elephant corridor between Amboseli and Chyulu Hills-Tsavo. Kenya and the local people deserve credit for setting aside this land for wildlife.   Some creative techniques were used to keep elephants away from farms and villages as they passed through.  For example, every several fence posts, bee hives were affixed to the fencing because elephants are known to detest bees.  Very clever!

Bee hives along the fence line to deter elephants from entering farmland and villages

 

 

It is possible to see some of the big male tuskers roaming between the parks through the Kimana Sanctuary corridor.  In fact, we had to sign documents stating we would not give the location of these guys in real time—a good policy.  We did see some big tusks, but not in Kimana.

Males sparring playfully, Kimana Sanctuary

 

 

Males sparring playfully, Kimana Sanctuary

 

 

 

Kimana Sanctuary

 

 

Kimana Sanctuary

 

 

Kimana Sanctuary

 

 

Kimana Sanctuary

 

Day 5 Oct 31

We spent the day in Kimana Sanctuary for both morning and afternoon game drives, returning for lunch in between.

Kimana Sanctuary sunrise

 

 

Kimana Sanctuary, ostrich and ele

 

 

Fiscal Shrikes, Kimana Sanctuary

 

 

Spot-flanked Barbet, Kimana Sanctuary

 

 

 

Secretary Bird, Kimana Sanctuary

 

 

 

Kimana Sanctuary

 

 

Yellow Baboons on Kimana House grounds, viewed after lunch from the gazebo

 

 

Yellow Baboons on Kimana House grounds, viewed after lunch from the gazebo

 

 

 

Yellow Baboons leaving the Kimana House grounds, taking the bridge over the river, viewed after lunch

 

 

 

Masai Giraffe, Kimana Sanctuary

 

 

Masai Giraffe, Kimana Sanctuary

 

 

Masai Giraffe, Kimana Sanctuary

 

 

Masai Giraffe, Kimana Sanctuary

 

 

 

African Hoopoe, Kimana Sanctuary.  I shared with my safarimates that this was my favorite African bird.

 

 

 

With low predator numbers, the ostrich population does quite well and we saw a mega-flock of 19 young ones. Under a rainbow!

Flock of 19 young ostriches, Kimana Sanctuary--all 19 are accounted for in this shot

 

 

Most of the Flock of 19 young ostriches, Kimana Sanctuary

 

 

Kimana Sanctuary, ostriches, rainbow. 

 

 

Rainbows without the ostriches, Kimana Sanctuary

 

 

Rainbow and one of our two vehicles, Kimana Sanctuary

 

 

Rainbow and elephant, Kimana Sanctuary

 

 

Kimana Sanctuary

 

 

Edited January 2, 2022 by Atravelynn

[Kitsafari]

such handsome elephants!! how wonderful and joyous it must have been to watch them spar. 

[Toxic]

Words cannot tell you how joyous it is to log in each morning to see a notification that says there are new posts in this thread. It really is so great to relive your experience alongside you, helped with your brilliant pictures.  What a fantastic sunrise photo that is, and your Kili photo with the vultures looks so atmospheric and moody, like it could be in a film. 

[michael-ibk]

Really beautiful Lynn, the perfect read for Christmas really. And really cool pictures, appreciate all the birds btw. Heartwarming to see how happy you all look - Jane especially! Good to know about the Piano. 

[Atravelynn]

16 hours ago, Kitsafari said:

such handsome elephants!! how wonderful and joyous it must have been to watch them spar. 

Both wild and orphan eles were spunky and fun to watch.

15 hours ago, Toxic said:

Words cannot tell you how joyous it is to log in each morning (Oh dear, the pressure is on.  There may not be a daily addition, but I'll keep plugging away, like you are) to see a notification that says there are new posts in this thread. It really is so great to relive your experience alongside you, (thanks, it is fun to relive it myself) helped with your brilliant pictures.  What a fantastic sunrise photo that is, and your Kili photo with the vultures looks so atmospheric and moody, like it could be in a film. Thanks

 

15 hours ago, michael-ibk said:

Really beautiful Lynn, the perfect read for Christmas really. I'll have to stick a red nose on a reedbuck!  And really cool pictures, appreciate all the birds btw.  Heartwarming to see how happy you all look - Jane especially! Good to know about the Piano.   No excuse not to practice the piano at Ololo.

 

[Atravelynn]

Day 6 Nov 1

 

We had an 11-hour day in Amboseli, about an hour away from Kimana House.  We took two vehicles so that some of us did not have to be out 11 hours. Amboseli’s reputation as an elephant park was on full display for us.

Amboseli

 

 

Amboseli

 

 

Amboseli

 

 

While waiting at Amboseli’s park entrance for the paperwork, there was a sudden eruption of excited squeals near the ladies’ loo that could only be the greeting ritual of female Homo sapiens. Laughter and hugs followed. Jane had run into a facebook friend who was also visiting the elephant orphanages plus Amboseli, just like us.  It was their first in-person contact.  This delightful lady (who had brought her mom along too) and a traveling companion were “Sheldricks Regulars” who came often to keep tabs on their adoptees and renew friendships with the keepers. 

 

A thick-tusked sentry stood near the park entrance just like he was supposed to do.

There are 3 species present in this photo, Amboseli

 

 

Some of the big males that hang around the area have been named.  Pascal is one of those elephants, who did not take kindly to a passing hyena interrupting his nap.

Pascal lashing out at a passing hyena before resuming his morning nap

 

 

Amboseli

 

 

 

The ostrich would win the race, Amboseli

 

 

Resting calf, Amboseli

 

 

 

Amboseli

 

 

 

Pied Avocet and Flamingo, Amboseli

 

 

 

Blue-billed Teal and an intruder, Amboseli

 

 

 

Red-billed Teal, Amboseli

 

 

 

Amboseli

 

 

Amboseli

 

 

Amboseli

 

 

Amboseli

 

 

 

Mid-morning break.  Sangeeta and Jane in their dusty rose and grey uniform, which was not planned.  Jill and Nancy in background.

 

 

Amboseli

 

 

 

Amboseli

 

 

Amboseli

 

 

Pelicans, Amboseli

Amboseli’s Observation Hill is next

 

Edited December 27, 2021 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

We enjoyed a picnic lunch atop Amboseli’s Observation Hill, 150 steps up.  Nice bird activity and good views.  Such a steep climb was out of the question for Jane, so Sangeeta joined her for lunch at the base of the hill.

Observation Point, looking down, Amboseli.  There is a herd of zebras present.

 

 

 

\

Superb Starlings at Amboseli’s Observation Point

 

 

 

Weavers, I think Golden-backed, at Amboseli’s Observation Point

 

 

Midday shimmering heat, Amboseli

 

 

No Kili sightings during our day in Amboseli.  Also, no lion or cheetah for us like @optig saw and reported, below.

https://www.safaritalk.net/topic/21296-amboseli-and-tsavo-west-through-my-lens/?tab=comments#comment-319306

And not one photo op of a giraffe, now that I think of it. But the Goliath Herons outdid themselves.

Goliath Heron, in Neck Fluff Display, Amboseli

 

 

 

Goliath Heron in graceful contortions, halving its immense size, Amboseli

 

 

Amboseli

 

 

Claudia taking it all in, Amboseli

 

That stylish hat denotes an interesting person underneath and Claudia is that, what with her backyard full of turtles and a family dinner that included Chicago Cubs Ernie Banks as a guest.  “It’s a beautiful day, let’s play two.”  Ernie made that famous quote, but Claudia embodies it.

 

Sometimes it is the egret(s) that makes the shot.

Amboseli

 

 

Amboseli

 

 

Amboseli

 

 

 Amboseli

 

 

The end of examples of egrets enhancing the photos.

Amboseli

 

 

Amboseli

 

 

Grey Crowned Cranes, Amboseli

 

 

Reedbuck, Amboseli

 

 

Kori Bustard, the heaviest bird that can fly, Amboseli

 

 

Sizeable tusks to start and finish our day in Amboseli were bookends of an outstanding game drive.

Amboseli

 

 

 

Amboseli

 

We so enjoyed our 3 days at Kimana House.  For a family or group of friends, it would be the perfect getaway to relax and go out on game drives, for even longer than 3 days. I think this spot remained Jill’s favorite of the whole trip.  Sad to leave, but we were looking forward visiting the elephant orphanages. 

 

Next is Umani Springs and our first Sheldrick’s Elephant Orphanage

Edited December 27, 2021 by Atravelynn

[Toxic]

Beautiful photos and loving the ones of the sweet baby eles in particular. I'm thinking about my day in Amboseli also and don't think we saw giraffe either, but much like you we enjoyed a good 20-30 minutes with the elephants in the marshes just splashing, ripping and chomping. So tranquil! 

[penolva]

On 12/18/2021 at 11:20 PM, Atravelynn said:

 

 

 

 

 

@penolvaalso made two similar trips and has a wealth of specifics, details, stunning photos and names of the various elephants in her report that should be of interest to anyone contemplating this kind of itinerary.  She and her travelmates were as enchanted as we were. “Dream come true” was the description.  It’s nice to see this consistent sentiment from so many, both men and women.  Here are her two reports:

 

 

To visit any of these orphanages, it is necessary to adopt at least one animal through Sheldricks for $50/year.  Bring that documentation with you. 

 

@AtravelynnI don’t know what made me look at ST today but I guess I was feeling sad so looked for something to take my mind off things. So wonderful to see your TR and I will be following along. I so admire Jane having the courage to make that trip even though she was so ill and for all of you helping her make it happen ❤️ Hugs Pen 

[penolva]

17 minutes ago, penolva said:

@AtravelynnI don’t know what made me look at ST today but I guess I was feeling sad so looked for something to take my mind off things. So wonderful to see your TR and I will be following along. I so admire Jane having the courage to make that trip even though she was so ill and for all of you helping her make it happen ❤️ Hugs Pen 

I didn’t see your question regarding transportation. The second trip there were four of us so we managed with one long wheel base vehicle. For next September we have more in our group so are hiring two. George will drive us again hopefully plus a colleague. Pen 

[Alexander33]

What a wonderfully inspiring and poignant trip report, a true reminder to savor the joy each day.
 

And it certainly sounds like you had some joyful days to savor. The sighting with the wild dogs taunting the elephants is particularly special. Love those photos, and thanks also for including the birds. 

 

Looking forward to more. 

[Zubbie15]

I haven't been on ST much lately, with end of year activities at work and then holidays, and so there are definitely a few trip reports to catch up on.  But it's great to start with an @Atravelynn report, full of information and detailed description. How fortunate you were able to go with Jane on her last trip, and how lucky she was to be able to travel with what was clearly a great group of friends.    Looking forward to the next installments. 

[Atravelynn]

13 hours ago, penolva said:

I didn’t see your question regarding transportation. The second trip there were four of us so we managed with one long wheel base vehicle. For next September we have more in our group so are hiring two. George will drive us again hopefully plus a colleague. Pen 

Hope the content of safaritalk, along with this report on familiar faces and places, can offer a bit of cheer.  Thanks for the input on # of vehicles.  Seems you need 2 vehicles for 6 participants.  We debated 1 or 2 vehicles for a bit, but all agreed 2 were a necessity for our group of 6.   Not to get into lots of specifics on costs, but when you compare 6 people and 2 vehicles (and of course 2 staff) vs 4 people and 1 vehicle, are the big differences? 

 

Even more cheer for you to plan and ponder your return to the Sheldrick Trust properties, a 3rd visit I believe.

[Atravelynn]

On 12/28/2021 at 11:11 AM, Zubbie15 said:

I haven't been on ST much lately, with end of year activities at work and then holidays, and so there are definitely a few trip reports to catch up on.  But it's great to start with an @Atravelynn report, full of information and detailed description. How fortunate you were able to go with Jane on her last trip, and how lucky she was to be able to travel with what was clearly a great group of friends.    Looking forward to the next installments. 

Glad you are back.  I was gone for a long time and even confessed guiltily about my more local wildlife interests that overtook safaritalk in a post entitled I've found someone else.

On 12/28/2021 at 10:52 AM, Alexander33 said:

What a wonderfully inspiring and poignant trip report, a true reminder to savor the joy each day.
 

And it certainly sounds like you had some joyful days to savor. The sighting with the wild dogs taunting the elephants is particularly special. Love those photos, and thanks also for including the birds. 

 

Looking forward to more.   Thanks.  Joyful, inspiring, poignant are all apt terms for what we experienced.

 

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Day 7 Nov 2

Vervet on Kimana House grounds on the final morning of our stay

 

 

 

A 2.75 hour drive from Kimana Sanctuary to Umani Springs brought us to our first elephant visit at 11:00 am, a short 5 minute walk from our lodging.

Umani Springs 11 am visit; 1st of 6 at Umani.  Here come the orphans!  A former orphan or graduate can be seen in the background, coming back to visit.

 

 

 

Umani Springs 11 am visit; 1st of 6 at Umani

 

 

 

Umani Springs 11 am visit; 1st of 6 at Umani.  They get two bottles and they can count, at least to two.

 

 

 

Umani Springs 11 am visit; 1st of 6 at Umani.  For more mature elephants that no longer require two milk bottles, one of the bottles is water because eles can count and

they will get mad if they get only one bottle when the others get two.

 

 

 

Umani Springs 11 am visit; 1st of 6 at Umani.   Some elephants have learned to drink on their own.

 

 

 

Umani Springs 11 am visit; 1st of 6 at Umani

 

 

 

Umani Springs 11 am visit; 1st of 6 at Umani.  Murara and me.

 

 

 

Umani Springs 11 am visit; 1st of 6 at Umani

 

 

 

 

Umani Springs 11 am visit; 1st of 6 at Umani.  Enkesha and me.

 

 

 

Umani Springs 11 am visit; 1st of 6 at Umani.  The waterhole was unoccupied because it was too cold for the orphans to want to go in.  Always their choice at Umani Springs.

 

 

Back at our beautiful Umani Springs accommodations, roaming the grounds and the trees...

Umani Springs grounds, Out of 500 shots, there was a single keeper.

 

 

 

Sykes Monkey in trees on Umani Springs grounds

 

 

 

Sykes Monkey in trees on Umani Springs grounds

 

 

  

Mother and juvenile Sykes Monkey in tress on Umani Springs grounds

 

 

 

Baby bushbuck, Umani Springs grounds

 

 

 

Umani Springs grounds, enjoyed by guests and wildlife

 

 

Back at the orphanage that evening, head keeper Benjamin explained to us that most of the elephants at Umani are disabled or have been injured in some way that requires them to receive even more care and attention than elephants at the other reintegration units.  Some of the elephants with injuries have elephant buddies who are completely healthy but so as not to break up their bond, the healthy elephants join the injured or disabled ones to live at Umani.  Elephants are assigned to their bedrooms based on relationships—some room with their friends, some sleep alone, and some are alone but right next door to their good friends.  (Kind of like our own arrangements where we rotated the single rooms, doubled up at times, or had adjoining rooms.)

Umani Springs 5 pm visit; 2nd of 6 at Umani. Coming home for the night.

 

 

 

Umani Springs 5 pm visit; 2nd of 6 at Umani

 

As the elephants came into their bedrooms for the night, they all knew exactly which was theirs and where to go.  I noticed one elephant pause and then walk past a particular bedroom.  I asked if the elephant had become confused about where to sleep.  Benjamin answered, “No, he is not confused but he only goes inside when his keeper escorts him.  He does not enter alone.”  Sure enough, when the keeper came over and walked the elephant in, he went happily into his bedroom for the night.  Routines can be reassuring and this was one more example of keepers doing whatever it takes for the elephants.

Umani Springs 5 pm visit, 2nd of 6 at Umani.  Jane is feeding seedpods to an elephant in its bedroom for the night.

 

 

Prior to all of us retreating to our own bedrooms, we were served a fine dinner and so were the nocturnal creatures that were provided a treat placed near a spotlight. Great photo ops were possible.  I spent much of the evening meals away from our beautifully appointed table, squatting quietly in the garden waiting for mongoose and such.  Emily Post would likely not approve of those table manners but she was not on the trip.  Umani Springs was the only location on our itinerary that offered this night viewing.

Genet at Umani Springs near the dining area at night

 

 

 

Marsh Mongoose at Umani Springs near the dining area at night

 

 

 

Genet at Umani Springs near the dining area at night

 

 

 

Genet at Umani Springs near the dining area at night

 

 

 

Three, count ‘em three, Marsh Mongoose at Umani Springs near the dining area at night

 

 

Edited January 4, 2022 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

Day 8 Nov 3

 

Umani Springs 6 am visit; 3rd of 6 at Umani

 

 

 

 

Umani Springs 6 am visit; 3rd of 6 at Umani.  I tried to get low angle shots because it is not often you can crouch in front of an elephant. 

We were not allowed to lay down, obviously, just crouch.

 

 

 

Some of the tragic injuries that Umani elephants had sustained were a trunk perforated by a snare (Enkesha); feet shot by poachers; a foot injured when the elephant (Murara) fell into a man-made pit containing a spike.  One of the most disturbing injuries was to a young male (Faraja) who was trapped in the mud, unable to escape and join his herd that had departed.  Hyenas chewed off his tail and testicles. 

 

Horrid as all these incidents were, the survivors are faring well at Umani.  In fact, Faraja is a graduate and comes and goes in the forest as he pleases.  When Faraja or any of the orphans stay out late or all night, they are affectionately referred to as “Night Clubbers.”  Producing graduates and Night Clubbers is the goal, but due to their special needs, Benjamin explained that any of the Umani elephants are allowed to remain forever or return back from the wild whenever they wish.

Umani Springs 6 am visit; 3rd of 6 at Umani. Faraja lost his tail and testicles to hyenas when he was stuck in mud and the herd had moved on.  He is a graduate and is doing well, but does not like to have his tail area touched.  Understandable.

 

 

 

Umani Springs 6 am visit; 3rd of 6 at Umani

 

 

 

Umani Springs 6 am visit; 3rd of 6 at Umani

 

 

 

 

Umani Springs 6 am visit; 3rd of 6 at Umani

 

 

 

Umani Springs 6 am visit; 3rd of 6 at Umani.  Sangeeta, Nancy and Lynn.

 

 

 

Umani Springs 6 am visit; 3rd of 6 at Umani.  A favorite activity to remove ticks.

 

 

 

Umani Springs 6 am visit; 3rd of 6 at Umani.  In the middle of it all.

 

 

 

The bushbuck and vervets enjoyed the pool from the sidelines, just like me.

 

 

 

Umani Springs 11 am visit; 4th of 6 at Umani.  Yellow baboon in the foliage near the elephant watering hole.

 

 

 

Umani Springs 11 am visit; 4th of 6 at Umani

 

 

 

Umani Springs 11 am visit; 4th of 6 at Umani

 

 

 

Umani Springs 11 am visit; 4th of 6 at Umani.  Injured rear leg.  It does not affect the ability to grasp the bottle with the trunk.

 

 

 

Umani Springs 11 am visit; 4th of 6 at Umani.  Enkasha, trunk injured in snare

 

 

 

Umani Springs 11 am visit; 4th of 6 at Umani

 

 

 

Umani Springs 11 am visit; 4th of 6 at Umani

 

 

 

 

Umani Springs 11 am visit; 4th of 6 at Umani.  As close to taking a bath as the orphans got.  A little too chilly for their tastes.

 

 

 

 

Umani Springs 11 am visit; 4th of 6 at Umani

 Next is the rest of our time at Umani Springs

Edited December 30, 2021 by Atravelynn

[Atdahl]

What a wonderful adventure so far @Atravelynn.  I look forward to reading the rest.

[gatoratlarge]

So glad to be reading about this adventure --- what a great idea to visit the Sheldrick sites throughout the re-integration process.  And the best part is seeing Jane and the joy on her face doing what she loved most!  

[Atravelynn]

On 12/30/2021 at 10:43 AM, Atdahl said:

What a wonderful adventure so far @Atravelynn.  I look forward to reading the rest.  Great, with 16 elephant orphanage visits, there is more to come.

 

On 12/30/2021 at 10:50 AM, gatoratlarge said:

So glad to be reading about this adventure --- what a great idea to visit the Sheldrick sites throughout the re-integration process.  And the best part is seeing Jane and the joy on her face doing what she loved most!  Fortunately there were many of these instances.

 

 

 

Day 8 Nov 4

 

“Back at the ranch,” Jill kindly alerted us to another guest sharing her outdoor shower—the Battersby Green Snake. We all gathered ‘round and were treated to some brief views. Then, with Jill’s permission, I hung out in the shower until the little guy popped out of the wall again and stayed out for some time.  While waiting for the snake, a noisy Trumpeter Hornbill landed in the trees above.  I got an Umani Springs two-fer!   #4 loo and shower proved to be a hotspot!

Non-poisonous Battersby Green Snake that lived in the shower wall.  Umani Springs

 

 

 

 

Trumpeter Hornbill in tree at Umani Springs grounds.

 

 

 

Trumpeter Hornbill in tree at Umani Springs grounds.

 

 

 

 

Female Bushbuck on Umani Springs grounds

 

 

 

Male Bushbuck on Umani Springs grounds

 

 

 

 

Male Bushbuck on Umani Springs grounds

 

 

 

Female Bushbuck on Umani Springs grounds

 

 

 

European Roller, I think, at Umani Springs

 

 

Behind the “Angelina Joli Cottage” was the nursery for baby vervets and their moms.  They kindly tolerated my presence.

Vervet on Umani Springs grounds

 

 

 

Vervets on Umani Springs grounds

 

 

 

Vervets on Umani Springs grounds

 

 

 

Vervets on Umani Springs grounds

 

 

 

Vervets on Umani Springs grounds

 

 

Vervet on Umani Springs grounds

 

 

 

Vervet on Umani Springs grounds

 

 

 

Sykes Monkey in tree on Umani Springs grounds

 

 

 

Sykes Monkey in tree on Umani Springs grounds

 

 

 

Seed pod in my outdoor loo, Umani Springs

 

 

Just two pictures for this evening’s elephant visit, as interacting with the elephants and handlers took precedence over photos.  We learned about some Night Clubbers who joined wild elephants and endured a night-time lion attack.  The Night Clubbers returned with minor injuries and brought a more severely wild elephant back with them to receive help that unfortunately did not survive.  The orphans who did survive the attack now remain in their bedrooms at night and have refused to venture out for the night again.

 

An elephant with a single tusk was pointed out.  On her first evening out night clubbing she got into a fight and returned in the morning with only one tusk.

Umani Springs 5 pm visit; 5th of 6 at Umani

 

 

 

Umani Springs 5 pm visit; 5th of 6 at Umani

 

 

 

We did an hour night drive after dinner in the Kibwezi Forest and saw several lesser bushbabies and a porcupine.  No photos from the night drive but the guests for dinner at Umani Springs were again good subjects for my camera.

Genet at Umani Springs near the dining area at night

 

 

 

White-tailed Mongoose at Umani Springs near the dining area at night

 

 

Day 9 Nov 4

We had a final morning with the Umani Springs elephants.  Flash photography was allowed and was ignored by the elephants.

 

Umani Springs 6 am visit; 6th of 6 at Umani.  Enkesha’s trunk, damaged by a snare, is visible

 

 

 

 

Umani Springs 6 am visit; 6th of 6 at Umani

 

 

 

Umani Springs 6 am visit; 6th of 6 at Umani

 

 

 

Umani Springs 6 am visit; 6th of 6 at Umani.  Any time of day is a good time for a bum scratch to help remove ticks.

 

Next is the elephant visit at the Voi Stockade in Tsavo East

Edited January 2, 2022 by Atravelynn

[KathBC]

I've just now learned of Jane's passing and stumbling across this wonderful trip report and amazing photos has eased the sadness so thank you for that.

[Game Warden]

What a plethora of stories and wonderful images @Atravelynnand knowing that Jane was able to share in this adventure with Safaritalk friends and be in a place which obviously meant so much to her. This report is a fitting tribute to her passion for Africa.

 

Matt

[Atravelynn]

On 12/31/2021 at 2:39 AM, KathBC said:

I've just now learned of Jane's passing and stumbling across this wonderful trip report and amazing photos has eased the sadness so thank you for that.

There was much more joy than sadness on the trip, which we all were thankful for.

10 hours ago, Game Warden said:

What a plethora of stories and wonderful images @Atravelynnand knowing that Jane was able to share in this adventure  with Safaritalk friends and be in a place which obviously meant so much to her. This report is a fitting tribute to her passion for Africa.  Yes, she was with old friends made on Safaritalk and she quickly made new friends with the other participants who shared her passion for Africa.  I am chuckling to myself how "new friends" Nancy @njs took on the task of  rearranging all of Jane's luggage so it was more accessible and the zippers could zip and Claudia kept Jane and the rest of us smiling with her funny stories of turtles and more.    One more old safaritalk friend even made a surprise appearance and joined in the fun.

 

 

Edited January 1, 2022 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

Day 9 Nov 4

Our very special visit to Umani Springs in the Kibwezi Forest had come to an end. Then 3 hours and 10 minutes of driving brought us to the Voi Stockade Headquarters in Tsavo East, just in time for the 11 am mud bath.  Usually, the mud bath is in a picturesque location, but lions had been spotted in the area so the bath was moved to inside the fence at headquarters. 

Voi in Tsavo East, 11 am visit.  1st of 2 visits at Voi.

 

 

 

Voi in Tsavo East, 11 am visit.  1st of 2 visits at Voi.

 

 

 

Voi in Tsavo East, 11 am visit.  1st of 2 visits at Voi.

 

 

 

Voi in Tsavo East, 11 am visit.  1st of 2 visits at Voi.

 

 

 

 

Voi in Tsavo East, 11 am visit.  1st of 2 visits at Voi.

 

 

 

 

Voi in Tsavo East, 11 am visit.  1st of 2 visits at Voi.

 

 

 

Voi in Tsavo East, 11 am visit.  1st of 2 visits at Voi.

 

 

 

Voi in Tsavo East, 11 am visit.  1st of 2 visits at Voi.

 

 

 

Voi in Tsavo East, 11 am visit.  1st of 2 visits at Voi.  Me with elephant.

 

 

 

Voi in Tsavo East, 11 am visit.  1st of 2 visits at Voi.  Sangeeta with elephant.

 

 

 

Voi in Tsavo East, 11 am visit.  1st of 2 visits at Voi.  Jane and a keeper observing the mud bath.

 

 

From the Voi Stockades, we drove about 90 minutes through the park (no photos taken during this hot and dusty time of the day) to Little Galdessa, a beautiful oasis on the Galana River.  We were treated to elephants crossing the river, viewed from our tents, plus two plucky fellows who came to feed on Doum Palm fruit that the staff collected daily and placed along the bluff.  It was also a custom to toss the Doum Palm fruits over the bluff to the eles.

Viewed from Little Galdessa grounds.  Elephants crossing the Galana River.

 

 

 

One of two wild elephants (named Frederick and Willy I believe) who ate Doum Palm fruits, carefully placed on the river bank at Little Galdessa & a Thick-knee

 

 

 

One of two wild elephants (named Frederick and Willy I believe) who ate Doum Palm fruits, carefully placed on the river bank at Little Galdessa

 

 

 

 

Doum Palm fruits placed so that wild elephants, Frederick and Willy, can reach them at Little Galdessa

 

 

 

 

Claudia watching a wild elephant approach to feed on Doum Palm fruits, collected and placed along the bluff by Little Galdessa staff

 

 

We did an afternoon game drive from Little Galdessa.

Tsavo East elephant in front of the ever present Doum Palms.  Game drive from Little Galdessa.

 

 

 

Tsavo East, Lion was on the opposite bank of Galana River. 1 of 9 lions seen in Tsavo East.  Game drive from Little Galdessa.

 

 

 

Tsavo East, young Batteluer.  Game drive from Little Galdessa

 

 

 

Tsavo East game drive from Little Galdessa

 

 

 

 

Tsavo East game drive from Little Galdessa

 

Next is Tsavo East morning and afternoon game drives

 

Edited January 2, 2022 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

Day 10 Nov 5

We did morning and afternoon game drives from East Tsavo's Little Galdessa in the surrounding area.

Tsavo East morning game drive from Little Galdessa

 

 

 

Tsavo East morning game drive from Little Galdessa.  One of a couple hippo photos of the entire trip.

 

 

 

Tsavo East morning morning drive from Little Galdessa. Golden Pipit

 

 

 

Tsavo East morning game drive from Little Galdessa.  Female Gerenuk

 

 

 

Tsavo East morning game drive from Little Galdessa. Rock Hyrax

 

 

 

Tsavo East morning game drive from Little Galdessa.  Male waterbuck

 

 

 

Tsavo East morning game drive from Little Galdessa.  Cape Buffalo and Yellow-billed Oxpecker

 

 

 

Tsavo East morning game drive from Little Galdessa.  Impala

 

 

Today it was Jane’s and my turn to host a snake!  A speckled sand snake was lounging on our deck.  Since the snake seemed to be well acquainted with our tent, climbing up the outside, I wondered if it noticed the new railings at the entrance to our place.  The staff members had put their excellent carpentry skills to use by building the railings while we all were out on our drive that morning.  Jane had found it hard to negotiate the stairs without something sturdy to hold, so they fixed it, pronto!  Now that’s service! 

Speckled sand snake on the deck of the tent where Jane and I were staying

 

 

 

Waterbuck pair seen from Little Galdessa grounds

 

 

 

Male waterbuck seen from Little Galdessa grounds

 

 

 

 

White-browed Sparrow-weavers, adult feeding youngster, seen in front of our tent, Little Galdessa

 

 

 

Viewed from Little Galdessa grounds

 

 

 

Viewed from Little Galdessa grounds

 

 

 

Agama Lizard at Little Galdessa

 

 

 

Black-capped Night Heron at Little Galdessa

 

 

 

 

Viewed from Little Galdessa Grounds

 

 

 

Tsavo East afternoon game drive from Little Galdessa

 

 

 

Tsavo East afternoon game drive from Little Galdessa.  One of a couple hippo photos of the entire trip.

 

 

 

 

Tsavo East afternoon game drive from Little Galdessa.  Mother and calf Waterbuck

 

 

 

 

Tsavo East afternoon game drive from Little Galdessa.  Cape Buffalo

 

 

 

Tsavo East afternoon game drive from Little Galdessa.  Vulturine Guinea Fowl

 

 

 

Tsavo East afternoon game drive from Little Galdessa.  Agama Lizard whose tail was nipped off

 

 

 

Tsavo East scenery on afternoon game drive from Little Galdessa

 

Next is the second visit to Voi Stockades and finding the red elephants

Edited January 2, 2022 by Atravelynn