Touched by an Elephant

[Caracal]

Loving this report @Atravelynn with your commentary and it's wonderful variety - including Golden Pipit looking polished by the morning sun, waterbuck in the afternoon glow, a gerenuk trying to imitate a springbok and I keep returning to that beautiful photo of the elephants trailing across the Galana River.

[Atdahl]

Just a fantastic report @Atravelynn.  You had great sightings, great company, and great service.  Who could ask for anything more.

[Atravelynn]

On 1/2/2022 at 12:03 AM, Caracal said:

Loving this report @Atravelynn with your commentary and it's wonderful variety - including Golden Pipit looking polished by the morning sun, waterbuck in the afternoon glow, a gerenuk trying to imitate a springbok and I keep returning to that beautiful photo of the elephants trailing across the Galana River. Thank you. It was a treat to view that right from camp.

 

On 1/2/2022 at 8:07 AM, Atdahl said:

Just a fantastic report @Atravelynn.  You had great sightings, great company, and great service.  Who could ask for anything more.  Great weather.  We had that too.  Thanks!

 

 

 

 

[Atravelynn]

Day 11 Nov 6

We had a 7-hour game drive in Tsavo East that included an 11 am ele mud bath at Voi. 

 

It was good to have 2 vehicles today to allow some of the group to skip the long day but still do drives around Little Galdessa.

 

We were in two vehicles and both saw this cheetah.  On the way to Voi our vehicle saw another cheetah.  The vehicle that did not go to the Voi Stockade, and did a game drive nearer Little Galdessa, saw a mother cheetah and 2 cubs.  That was 5 cheetahs altogether.

 

Game drive from Little Galdessa to Voi, Tsavo East

 

 

 

Game drive from Little Galdessa to Voi, Tsavo East

 

 

 

Game drive from Little Galdessa to Voi, Tsavo East

 

 

 

Game drive from Little Galdessa to Voi, Tsavo East. Golden Breasted Starling

 

 

 

Game drive from Little Galdessa to Voi.  Pale Chanting Gosshawk looking quizzically at us.  We were looking at a lion under the tree.

 

 

 

Because the Voi Stockade is so far away (90 minutes if driving straight) from Little Galdessa, we only did 2 midday visits during our 3-night stay.  That allowed time for regular game drives in Tsavo East to look for interesting species like the Lesser Kudu or Gerenuk, and to enjoy time relaxing at Little Galdessa.

Game drive from Little Galdessa to Voi, Tsavo East.  Male Gerenuk

 

 

 

Game drive from Little Voi to Little Galdessa..  Male Lesser Kudu.  1 of 3 photographable sightings of Lesser Kudu in Tsavo East.

 

 

 

 

Game drive from Little Galdessa to Voi, Tsavo East.  Jackson’s Hartebeest

 

 

 

Game drive from Little Galdessa to Voi, Tsavo East

 

 

 

Game drive from Voi to Little Galdessa, Tsavo East

 

 

 

Game drive from Voi to Little Galdessa, Tsavo East.  2nd cheetah sighting for our vehicle.  5 cheetahs were seen in total, between the 2 vehicles.

 

 

 

Game drive from Little Galdessa, Tsavo East

 

 

 

Game drive from Little Galdessa, Tsavo East.  African Hawk Eagle

 

 

Today’s mud bath took place in the normal more scenic setting instead of inside the compound, which was the case on our first visit because lions were found in the normal mud bath area.

Here come the orphans to the mud bath at Voi at 11 am. 2nd of 2 visits to Voi.

 

 

 

11 am visit to Voi, Tsavo East.  2nd of 2 visits to Voi.

 

 

 

11 am visit to Voi, Tsavo East.  2nd of 2 visits to Voi.  Keeper in the back.

 

 

 

11 am visit to Voi, Tsavo East.   2nd of 2 visits to Voi.

 

 

 

11 am visit to Voi, Tsavo East.  2nd of 2 visits to Voi.

 

 

 

11 am visit to Voi, Tsavo East.  2nd of 2 visits to Voi.

 

 

 

11 am visit to Voi, Tsavo East.  2nd of 2 visits to Voi.

 

 

 

11 am visit to Voi.  2nd of 2 visits to Voi.  Notice the water truck in the background that fills the waterhole.

 

 

 

11 am visit to Voi.  2nd of 2 visits to Voi.  Notice the water truck in the background that fills the waterhole.

 

 

 

 

11 am visit to Voi, Tsavo East.  2nd of 2 visits to Voi.

 

 

11 am visit to Voi, Tsavo East.  2nd of 2 visits to Voi.

 

 

 

11 am visit to Voi, Tsavo East.  2nd of 2 visits to Voi.

 

 

Primer on red elephants, made red by the sand: 

 

The sand around Galdessa, near the Galana River, was less red, hence the nearby elephants lacked that vibrant red glow.  The soil and sand became more noticeably red nearer to Voi and so did the eles.  To truly appreciate that brilliant red color, the sun had to cooperate.  We were lucky it did. 

Game drive near Voi, Tsavo East

 

 

 

Game drive near Voi, Tsavo East.  Sneaking some milk from mama ele.

 

 

 

Game drive near Voi, Tsavo East

 

 

 

Game drive near Voi, Tsavo East

 

 

 

Game drive near Voi, Tsavo East

 

 

 

Game drive near Voi, Tsavo East

 

 

 

Compare the red eles near Voi, in the several photos above, to the ones near Little Galdessa, in two photos below.

Game drive from Little Galdessa, Tsavo East (slightly red)

 

 

Game drive from Little Galdessa, Tsavo East

 

 

The red sand so captivated Sangeeta and Claudia—for different reasons—that they made a request of our guide Nicholas to stop the vehicle, get out and scoop up some red sand into a couple of ziplock bags to be transported back home as treasures.  Alan was following our vehicle at the time with the provisions and luggage and when he came upon us he was quite baffled as to why we had stopped what was going on roadside with the ziplocks. 

 

Sangeeta wanted the red sand for her decorative bottles of colorful sands from around the world that will adorn her coffee table.  Claudia wanted the sand for her turtles.  The last time she provided African sand to her turtles, one of them began to sing, or at least vocalize.  His crooning continued until the sand had dissipated and then the turtle returned to silence.  Perhaps this small bag of sand will bring song to his lips once more.

Next is Ithumba

Edited February 6, 2022 by Atravelynn

[Atdahl]

The red elephants are amazing!!!

[Atravelynn]

28 minutes ago, Atdahl said:

The red elephants are amazing!!!

They are and we were lucky to see them in decent light.

[Atravelynn]

Day 12 Nov 7

The 2 hour and 40 minute drive from Little Galdessa to Ithumba provided one more sighting of Lesser Kudu.  Photos of this small group of females required opening the windows while stopped in a riverbed filled with tse tse flies.  Thank you to the safarimate team members who endured the insect torture while Sangeeta and I opened the sliding windows and leaned out to click-click-click the distant subjects with our Sony RX10s. 

Tsavo East, Female Lesser Kudu, 1 of 3 photographable sightings of Lesser Kudu

 

 

 

Taken from bridge. Tsavo East.  “Twin” crocs.

 

 

We arrived at the Ithumba watering hole a few minutes before the water truck that prepares the 11 am bath.  Up to four truckloads of water are dumped into the waterhole per day during the dry season.  

Ithumba 11 am visit. 1st visit of 6.  Water truck fills the man-made waterhole that serves Ithumba’s orphans and wild elephants.

 

 

 

 

Ithumba 11 am visit. 1st visit of 6.  Here come the orphans!  2-3 are allowed to advance at a time to prevent a mult-ele stampede that could be dangerous for beast and man.

 

 

 

 

Ithumba 11 am visit. 1st visit of 6.  Here come the orphans! A small group of 3.

 

 

 

 

Ithumba 11 am visit. 1st visit of 6. 

 

 

 

Ithumba 11 am visit. 1st visit of 6. 

 

 

 

Ithumba 11 am visit. 1st visit of 6. 

 

 

 

 

Ithumba 11 am visit. 1st visit of 6. 

 

 

 

Wild elephants and former orphans also bring their young to the water hole.

Ithumba 11 am visit. 1st visit of 6.  Here come the wild eles and former orphans with their little ones.

 

 

 

 

Ithumba 11 am visit. 1st visit of 6. 

 

 

 

 

 

Ithumba 11 am visit. 1st visit of 6. 

 

 

 

 

Ithumba 11 am visit. 1st visit of 6. 

 

 

 

 

Ithumba 11 am visit. 1st visit of 6. 

 

 

 

Big bulls hung out around the waterhole.  These were the biggest tusks of the trip.

Ithumba 11 am visit. 1st visit of 6.  Wild bull elephants that visit the waterhole

 

 

 

Ithumba 11 am visit. 1st visit of 6. Wild bull elephants that visit the waterhole.

 

 

 

Ithumba 11 am visit. 1st visit of 6.

 

 

 

Ithumba 11 am visit. 1st visit of 6.

 

 

 

 

Ithumba 11 am visit. 1st visit of 6.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ithumba 11 am visit. 1st visit of 6.  Wild elephants, orphans and former orphans all mix it up in the waterhole.

 

 

 

 

 

Sending us off for the 5 pm elephant visit was a Little Sparrowhawk, perched in a tree overlooking the lounge at our Ithumba Hill lodging.

Little Sparrowhawk at our Ithumba Hill lounge

 

 

 

Ithumba 5 pm visit. 2nd visit of 6.

 

 

 

 

Ithumba 5 pm visit. 2nd visit of 6.

 

 

 

Jane had alerted us with information from facebook and from her wide array of online safari pals that recently two former Ithumba orphans returned with their new babies, one age 2 weeks and one 3 and a half weeks.  Might we be fortunate enough to see these little ones during our two days at Ithumba?  We hoped so. The two youngsters, along with their mothers, were both at Ithumba on our first evening. 

 

The next 4 photos are these 2 very young babies brought back to Ithumba by their trusting mothers.

Ithumba 5 pm visit. 2nd visit of 6.  Calf only a couple of weeks old accompanying the former-orphan mother.

 

 

 

 

Ithumba 5 pm visit. 2nd visit of 6.  Calf only a couple of weeks old accompanying the former-orphan mother.

 

 

 

 

Ithumba 5 pm visit. 2nd visit of 6.  Calf only a couple of weeks old accompanying the former-orphan mother.

 

 

 

 

Ithumba 5 pm visit. 2nd visit of 6.  Calf only a couple of weeks old accompanying the former-orphan mother.

 

Edited February 6, 2022 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

Day 13 Nov 8

Sunrise at Ithumba, 6am visit, 3rd visit of 6

 

 

 

Ithumba, waking up for the day, 6 am visit, 3rd visit of 6

 

 

 

Morning feeding. Ithumba 6 am visit, 3rd of 6

 

 

 
In dry times the Ithumba waterhole is appreciated by more than the elephants.

Ithumba 6 am visit, 3rd of 6. Vulturine Guinea Fowl

 

 

 

Ithumba 6 am visit, Peregrine Falcon killed a small bird near the waterhole.

 

 

 

We had heard about wild dogs at the Ithumba waterhole.  In fact,our buddy @optig had seen them at Ithumba.  If only they’ll show up during our two days!  That morning they did!  Initially the dogs caused havoc with the elephants along the perimeter.

Ithumba 6 am visit, 3rd of 6.  Wild dogs taunt the orphans.

 

 

 

Ithumba 6 am visit, 3rd of 6.  Wild dogs taunt the orphans.

 

 

 

Then they came in to sniff around where the Peregrine had eaten and get a drink.  After a short visit off they went.

Ithumba 6 am visit, 3rd of 6.  Wild dogs sniff the feathers remaining from a Peregrine Falcon kill.

 

 

 

Ithumba 6 am visit, 3rd of 6.  Wild dogs at Ithumba

 

 

 

Ithumba 6 am visit, 3rd of 6.  Juvenile on the right still appears nearly all black.  Pups are born black.

 

 

 

A midday dip was enjoyed by the eles.

Ithumba 11 am visit, 4th of 6

 

 

 

 

Ithumba 11 am visit, 4th of 6

 

 

 

 

Ithumba 11 am visit, 4th of 6.  I don’t think the “wait 45 minutes after eating before swimming” rule applies to the elephants.

 

 

 

Ithumba 11 am visit, 4th of 6

 

 

 

Ithumba 11 am visit, 4th of 6

 

 

 

Ithumba 11 am visit, 4th of 6.  The water truck makes it all happen.

 

 

 

Ithumba 11 am visit, 4th of 6.  The wild elephants come to join the orphans at the waterhole during the dry season.

 

 

 

Ithumba 11 am visit, 4th of 6

 

 

 

Ithumba 11 am visit, 4th of 6

 

 

A midday dip in the Ithumba Hill pool, a little later in the day, was also enjoyed by one of our safari teammates.  Inspired by the elephants’ unencumbered freedom from swimwear, our safarimate—who will remain nameless but it was not I—did likewise and shared the secret.

 

Back to work, promptly before 5 pm, for more elephant watching...

Ithumba 5 pm visit, 5th of 6

 

 

 

Ithumba 5 pm visit, 5th of 6

 

 

 

 

Ithumba 5 pm visit, 5th of 6.  Jane's Sheldrick bandana gift to us is being put to use by Nancy to shield her face from dust.  Claudia is sitting nearby.

 

 
A very touching scene was a family of four:  Former orphan, now a grandmother  with two daughters and a calf that belonged to the older daughter, which was the grandchild.

Ithumba 5 pm visit, 5th of 6.  Grandma Former Orphan in center, on left is her youngest daughter, on right is her older daughter and the little one is the older daughter’s calf.

 

 

 

Ithumba 5 pm visit, 5th of 6.  Grandma Former Orphan in center, on left is her youngest daughter, on right is her older daughter and the little one is the older daughter’s calf. 

There’s also a big guy on the left.

 

 

 

 

Ithumba 5 pm visit, 5th of 6.  Grandma Former Orphan in center, on left is her youngest daughter, on right is her older daughter and the little one is the older daughter’s calf. 

There’s also a big guy on the left.

 

 

 

Another touching scene that was pointed out to us was a wild-born baby playing with the baby of a former orphan.

Ithumba 5 pm visit, 5th of 6.  One of the calves has a wild mother and one of the calves has a former orphan as a mother.

 

 

 

 

Ithumba 5 pm visit, 5th of 6.

 

 

 

Ithumba 5 pm visit, 5th of 6.

 

 

As the orphans grow more confident and stay out later, they may get back after the keepers have gone to bed, meaning they are locked out of their bedrooms.  We were told that if they trumpet, the keepers will come to open the gate and let them in.

Ithumba 5 pm visit, 5th of 6.

 

 

 

The oldest and boldest of the orphans who are nearly ready to leave are sometimes assigned to night time pens where they are shown how to open the gate on their own.  After walking in, the gate locks behind them.  If these elephants come back too late, they can just get take matters into their own trunks.  Now that is amazing.

Ithumba 5 pm visit, 5th of 6.

 

 

The keepers explained to us that starting at about age 5, the orphans begin to leave and almost all are gone by age 12, unless they have challenges that prevent them from being on their own.  Sometimes a group of orphans departs in their own little orphan herd and sometimes they are adopted individually by the wild herds.  Apparently, the wild herds are very interested in bringing the orphans in and don’t shun them.  In fact, we were told that when the keepers are out in the fields or forests with the orphans, they have to steer clear of the wild herds or those herds will “kidnap” the orphans.  If that happens too soon, the orphans don’t have a way of getting the milk they need because a mother elephant will only nurse her own baby, not an orphan.  So “kidnapping” needs to wait until the orphans are fully weaned and then it is actually a happy ending.

Ithumba 5 pm visit, 5th of 6.

 

 

 

Ithumba 5 pm visit, 5th of 6.

 

 

 

After living in the wild, some orphans return occasionally with or without their herd, some mothers bring back their offspring, some are only seen from afar with their wild companions, and a few are never seen again.  Tsavo East is about 5300 sq miles and the adjoining (without barriers) Tsavo West is about 3500 sq miles, so it is very possible that an elephant can disappear in these parks, if it wants.

Ithumba 5 pm visit, 5th of 6.

 

 

All of these Ithumba elephant dynamics and family relationships were fascinating to learn about and watch in the stockades and around the waterhole.  We had parallel family dynamics going on during our Ithumba stay that we all were attuned to as “Mama Jane” played the key role of matriarch in absentia.   Back home Jane’s daughter was signing up for college courses and we were following along with the trials and tribulations of pre-requisite course requirements suddenly popping up and the measures undertaken to waive the pre-reqs or get completed courses reclassified as pre-reqs.  Jane helped maneuver this maze of academia to guide her daughter to registration success.  We were kept in suspense between updates and breathed a sigh of relief when the class signup was complete.

 

Ithumba 5 pm visit, 5th of 6.

 

 

 

Ithumba 5 pm visit, 5th of 6.

 

 

Next “Is 16 elephant visits too many?”

 

Edited February 6, 2022 by Atravelynn

[madaboutcheetah]

I'm just catching up with this fascinating report, Lynn ......... Some wonderful moments captured perfectly !!! So good to see Jane enjoying the sights and sounds of Kenya and her beloved Ellies.

[michael-ibk]

Really beautiful photos Lynn, and a wonderful narrative. One of your best reports! You probably won’t be surprised to hear I love the Golden Pipit!

Edited January 6, 2022 by michael-ibk

[janzin]

omg it's elephantapalooza! And I expect more to come! Awesome report!

 

[Atravelynn]

On 1/6/2022 at 4:49 PM, janzin said:

omg it's elephantapalooza! And I expect more to come! Awesome report! I think 16 Sheldrick visits constitutes palooza. 

 

 

On 1/6/2022 at 1:02 PM, michael-ibk said:

Really beautiful photos Lynn, and a wonderful narrative. One of your best reports! You probably won’t be surprised to hear I love the Golden Pipit!Thanks!  I hope there are many of these birds in your future and Big Year reports.

 

Day 14, Nov 9

All of the Sheldrick’s chefs were consistently outstanding and innovative.  We presented the Ithumba chef with a challenge:  Make a soufflè with the Grand Marinier that accidentally ended up in our food supplies.  The result was fantastic.  We left the Grand Marinier behind for future guests.  Keep that in mind if you go!  In fact, this soufflè alone is reason to book your SWT trip now.

 

Here are two examples of Ithumba resident wildlife that can be enjoyed  while savoring the Grand Marinier Soufflè:

Ithumba Hill pond, viewed from lounge.  Slender Mongoose

 

 

 

Ithumba Hill pond, viewed from lounge.

 

 

Our last visit to the Ithumba elephants was short-lived because right after we arrived, the elephants trumpeted and stampeded away.  The keepers did not know why.  So, we were left to photograph their distant cousins, the rock hyrax. 

 

Before their abrupt departure that morning, I snapped a photo of Jane relaxing with the elephants in early morning sun.

On 1/5/2022 at 11:59 PM, madaboutcheetah said:

So good to see Jane enjoying the sights and sounds of Kenya and her beloved Ellies.     Here she is once more.  6th and final visit at Ithumba, 6 am.

 

6th and final visit of 6 at Ithumba, 6 am. Few elephant photos, but here's a cousin from way back--the rock hyrax.

 

 

Is 16 SWT visits too many? 

 

No!

 

I did 16 out of the 16 and can unequivocally answer no.  Each visit was different with the elephants doing different things.  More visits means more opportunities for something very special such as an appearance of wild dogs interacting with the eles or former orphan mothers bringing back their wild-born babies.  Of 8 mud bath viewing opportunities, 4 did not happen because the weather was too cool for the eles’ liking and 1 had to be relocated to far less attractive surroundings due to lions on the scene.  So out of 8, we saw 3 baths take place in normal fashion.  When there are several visits, if one or more people in the group is feeling under the weather or just wants to relax back at the fabulous accommodations, they can do so knowing there are other opportunities to see the orphans. 

 

The visits lasted for about an hour, but sometimes were less if the elephants took leave early.  Regardless the amount of time, we always had an enjoyable visit.

 

Realistically, few itineraries can accommodate 16 orphanage visits. Even 1 or 2 visits will be memorable and special. So if only 1 or 2 fit into your plans, I’d say go for it and enjoy!

 

To do any of these visits, except the Nairobi public visit, at least one elephant or other animal must be adopted for $50/year at the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust.

 

Here’s a summary of the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust re-integration units we visited.

 

 

 Next:  Nairobi Day, including the Sheldrick's there.

Edited February 6, 2022 by Atravelynn

[Kitsafari]

Love the red eles!

Noty dogs to taunt the eles.

Love Jane with the eles.

Love the tale of Jane mama and the ele mamas. 

Love the golden pipit!

[Atravelynn]

On 1/7/2022 at 8:58 AM, Kitsafari said:

Love the red eles!

Noty dogs to taunt the eles.

Love Jane with the eles.

Love the tale of Jane mama and the ele mamas. 

Love the golden pipit!  Thank you for sharing the love!

 

Day 14, Nov 9

Back to Nairobi from Ithumba in Tsavo East, after our 6 am ele visit. We arrived at Tamarind Tree Hotel (excellent choice we all thought) after just over 6 hours of driving with one 30-minute stop at one of those big gift shops.  They provided a table for us to eat lunch there, so I felt compelled to buy something and found the perfect gift—9 elephant bookmarks for my book club members to complement our next book, Daphne Sheldrick’s Love, Life, and Elephants, An African Love Story. No need to check this one out of the library because Chalo gifted each of us this book, along with several 9” x 12” watercolors of baby elephants by Angela Sheldrick, Daphne’s daughter.  I’ll be doing a mini art exhibit of these elephant paintings at the next book club!

 

Sangeeta and I were roommates at the Tamarind Tree which meant I was a spectator to:  Knock, knock...my Masai spear is gone, it must have gotten lost in transit.  Knock, knock...never mind I found my Masai spear in different luggage.  Knock, knock...my Masai spear has poked through my luggage and there is a hole in it.  For this problem I was uniquely qualified to come to the rescue with my handy duct tape coiled on a pencil stub.  I have found it to be invaluable for myself or others on about 20% of my trips.  In fact, I like to give it as a humorous bon voyage gift.  Knock, knock...My Kenyan Shillings are gone.  I think someone took them.  Knock, knock...Never mind, the shillings have reappeared.

Packed for every trip and often given as a bon voyage gift—duct tape coiled on a pencil stub.

 

All this sort of stuff was rather comical but a more serious issue for Sangeeta required finding a walker on short notice in Nairobi.  It became apparent that the next part of the trip to the Mara would not be possible for Jane without it.  With help from the Tamarind Tree Hotel staff and Gamewatchers, Sangeeta managed to have two walkers delivered to the hotel for inspection.  Jane picked the one with 2 wheels and 2 skis and it flew with us to the Mara.

 

Day 15 Nov 10

Nancy wanted to visit the Nairobi National Museum for the Benjamin Mkapa African Wildlife Photography Awards exhibition.  There was a particular photo she was interested in purchasing and wanted to see it.  Several of us decided to join Nancy and we’re glad we did.  What a gorgeous exhibit and we even met the printer of the exhibit photos, who happened to attend with family at the same time we were. In the future this exhibit may become an annual event and even travel outside of Africa. We all want to see it if it comes to a museum near us.

 

https://www.awf.org/pressroom/awf-celebrates-60-years-conservation-leadership-african-wildlife-photography-exhibition

 

Viewing the wildlife photos was exhilarating; getting to the point where we could view them was a comical farce.  Guide Nicholas suggested we leave at 7:15 am to be there well before the 8:30 opening. Nairobi traffic during construction could delay us an hour and we had a full day of activities that meant we must depart the museum no later than 9:30 am.  Traffic ended up being ok and we arrived about 7:45 am, so we strolled the attractive grounds until the museum opened. 

 

We were first in line at 8:30 but no attendant was present to collect our admissions.  There were several people working various stations but no admissions attendant and it was only the admissions attendant that could let us into the museum.  As the clock ticked to 8:45, I asked if we could go in now and pay on the way out.  No. 

 

Finally, the attendant arrived and started taking admissions at 8:50 am.  We told Nancy to go first since she was on a mission.  Nancy paid at the admission booth but then had to finalize the transaction at Station #2 by writing information in a big book.  The rest of us found out where we needed to go for the exhibit, so we could direct Nancy. We were told it was through the first gallery.  After disappearing into that gallery, Nancy re-emerged confused.  She was surrounded by red “DO NOT ENTER” tape and did not know where to go. A staff member kindly escorted Nancy through the tape to the elevator and told her to push second floor. 

 

Jill followed.  Then it was my turn.  When I got out on second floor, I walked along the route between the strips of red “DO NOT ENTER” tape that directed me to the Hall of Fish, which seemed interesting but was not the photo exhibit.  I wandered the Hall of Fish and started to panic that I would run out of time and miss the photo exhibit.  I started calling out, “Nancy, Jill, I’m trapped in the Hall of Fish!  Can you hear me?  Where are you?  Where is the exhibit?”  No response. Running up and down the Hall of Fish alone was getting me nowhere so I veered out of the Hall of Fish and ignored the red “DO NOT ENTER” tape, charging through it to arrive in the photo exhibit just in time to meet the printer.  Thanks to Nancy we had a humorous and cultural experience to kick off our Day in Nairobi and I saw one of the best exhibits I’ve ever seen!

 

The Sheldrick’s Public Visitation, 20 minutes from the Tamarind Hotel, took place at 11 am for about an hour.  Compared to our other very personal elephant encounters, this was obviously very different with 60 people in attendance.  But we learned the complete histories of many of the orphans we had heard about at the other orphanages and there was a surprising amount of contact allowed.  If the eles walked to the edge of the roped perimeter and up to the viewing public, it was ok to touch. Because it was fairly cool, the elephants did not do a mud bath.

Nairobi Sheldrick’s 11 am Public Visit, preparing the bottle

 

 

 

Nairobi Sheldrick’s 11 am Public Visit, in come the eles!

 

 

Nairobi Sheldrick’s 11 am Public Visit

 

 

 

Nairobi Sheldrick’s 11 am Public Visit, a little straggler

 

 

 

Nairobi Sheldrick’s 11 am Public Visit

 

 

 

Nairobi Sheldrick’s 11 am Public Visit, playing with the hose

 

 

 

Nairobi Sheldrick’s 11 am Public Visit, drinking from the hose, an unscripted move

 

 

 

Nairobi Sheldrick’s 11 am Public Visit, artistic trunk

 

 

 

Nairobi Sheldrick’s 11 am Public Visit, interaction that is initiated by the elephant is allowed.

 

 

 

Nairobi Sheldrick’s 11 am Public Visit, cleaning up the poop was a constant duty at every re-integration unit.

 

 

Nairobi Sheldrick’s 11 am Public Visit, Jill (with the blue backpack) observing.

 

 

Four notes about Nairobi Sheldrick’s:  (1) Keep voices down.  Failure to do so brings an admonishment from the speaker, directed specifically to the loudmouths.  It’s an educational elephant visit not some kind of shindig!  Plus there is a safety consideration.  (2)  Don’t be alarmed if there is a guard or two toting a machine gun.   That is for the protection of the animals, so that guests don’t sneak off in search of elephant or rhino ivory. (3) During Covid there are few to zero opportunities to buy gifts; gift shops are closed.  You can order online, though. (4)  Keep your eyes peeled for wild animals along the perimeter that live in the park.

Nairobi’s Sheldrick’s 11 am Public Visit, warthog piglets playing near the elephants.

 

 

For lunch, we went to a grocery store and got something like bread, cheese, juices and a dessert for the whole vehicle, Nicholas included.  Saving time was important between the ele visits. 

 

Our private visit, again 20 minutes from Tamarind Tree Hotel, started at 3 pm and the elephants stuck around about 25 minutes and then wandered off.  In that time there was lots of interaction and photos.  The keepers are very willing to snap pics with your camera/phone and do a good job of it, in fact photographing the eles is a requirement for the keepers at the various Sheldrick’s sites to maintain records. I even got an affectionate headbutt that sent me airborne and fortunately into the waiting arms of one of the keepers who could foresee what was coming and anticipated my trajectory. The keepers were vigilant in letting us know which elephants liked interaction and which were best avoided. Because it was still fairly cool, the elephants did not do a mud bath.

3 pm Private Visit at Sheldrick’s Nairobi. In come the elephants!

 

 

 

3 pm Private Visit at Sheldrick’s Nairobi. Masks were required.  One of my orphans, Kindana.

 

 

 

3 pm Private Visit at Sheldrick’s Nairobi. Masks were required.  One of my orphans, Kindana.

 

 

 

3 pm Private Visit at Sheldrick’s Nairobi. Masks were required.

 

 

We also stopped by Maxwell, the blind black rhino, who seemed quite content and had a good appetite. 

 

 

3 pm Private Visit at Sheldrick’s Nairobi.  Maxwell, the blind black rhino, born without an optic nerve so no operation can correct that disability.

 

 

 

3 pm Private Visit at Sheldrick’s Nairobi.  Maxwell, the blind black rhino.

 

 

 

3 pm Private Visit at Sheldrick’s Nairobi, Blue Monkeys.  All in good fun.

 

 

We could not do a SWT foster-parent-only visit because those were cancelled due to Covid.

 

We snuck in a visit to Kazuri Beads—back to Tamarind Tree Hotel, 20 minutes away from Sheldrick's to drop off Jane, then on to Kazuri Beads, another 20 minute drive.  As soon as we arrived at Kazuri Beads, Claudia was recognized by the guy giving the tour and other beadmakers.  Several years earlier she had bought a large piece of artwork that remains on display in her home today.  That purchase and Claudia’s winning personality made a lasting impression and the Kazuri bead folks were pleased she had returned.  We changed clothes in the Kazuri Beads bathroom.

 

Because Sangeeta had done so much for each of us with all the itinerary changes, new covid and visa rules, we took her out to a thank you dinner at the Talisman Restaurant, 15 minutes from Kazuri Beads.  Nancy had researched where to go and this was an outstanding choice.  We had wine and appetizers and entrees that were shared and desserts-to-pass.  It was a grand evening!  Since Claudia would be leaving us the next day to do different things, we even had a humorous farewell song, summarizing our trip together.  It was sung to the tune of Born Free--very poorly--by me.  Maybe I should have sought voice lessons from Jane, who earlier in her career had performed for about a year on Broadway in Evita!

 

I’ve mentioned the preponderance of “sweet” over “bitter” in this bittersweet trip.  Though our dinner was a fun-filled grand hurrah for our group, there was a slightly “bitter” aftertaste because Jane was not with us.  Jane had agreed with our consensus that her energy needed to be conserved for the private visit at Nairobi Sheldrick.  Therefore the other activities that day were out for her, including our final dinner.  The five of us at the dinner all chuckled that we had brought no fancy dining out clothes.  That was not true for Jane.  She mentioned a particular dress she had planned to wear to our dinner, but she never got the chance.

Next is the Ol Kinyei and Naboisoho Conservancies in the Masai Mara

Edited January 9, 2022 by Atravelynn

[twaffle]

I had forgotten how much I enjoy your Safari’s through your eyes Lynn. Your gentle sense of humour managed to avoid much of the melancholy that could have shadowed this journey. Bittersweet but I’m so glad that Jane managed that one last trip to the elephants. Oh that we all would have such kind friends to do that for each one of us. 
 

Lovely photos as usual.

 

Back to Covid induced Melancholy for me, no travel for the foreseeable future but hopefully one day. 
 

Thank you. 
Hilary

[Atravelynn]

7 hours ago, twaffle said:

 

Back to Covid induced Melancholy for me, no travel for the foreseeable future but hopefully one day.   One day soon, camera in hand for you!  Thank you.
 

 

 

[Toxic]

Logging in after a few days away to see several updates.  Those sweet baby elephants you've captured so perfectly has me sat here with a great big grin on my face! 

[Caracal]

6 hours ago, Toxic said:

has me sat here with a great big grin on my face! 

and I'm sitting here with a grin on my face thinking of Lynn's fortuitous trajectory from an affectionate elephant's headbutt into the waiting arms of an alert keeper!

[Atravelynn]

On 1/10/2022 at 2:00 PM, Toxic said:

Logging in after a few days away to see several updates.  Those sweet baby elephants you've captured so perfectly has me sat here with a great big grin on my face! 

 

On 1/10/2022 at 9:01 PM, Caracal said:

and I'm sitting here with a grin on my face thinking of Lynn's fortuitous trajectory from an affectionate elephant's headbutt into the waiting arms of an alert keeper!

Thank you both for your grins and your continued interest.

 

 

Game Drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, 2 of 6 3-month old cubs from Lemuny Pride

 

 

 

Game Drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, 2 of 6 3-month old cubs from Lemuny Pride

 

 

 

Masai Mara, full day drive from Cheetah Porini, white ground cover, elephants on horizon

 

 

 

Game Drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, 1 of 6 3-month old cubs and 1 of 2 lionesses from Lemuny Pride

 

 

 

Day 16 Nov 11 and our Suprise Visitor

We arranged for Gamewatchers to hold some of our luggage so that we could adhere to the 33 lb limit on the flights to and from the Mara, which was our next destination.

 

Wilson Airport is 10 minutes away from Tamarind Tree Hotel.  We said good-bye to Claudia, who was going to Tangulia Mara Camp to be guided by Jackson of Big Cat Diary, and then on to Zanzibar for adventures with Freddy Mercury and more.  And we said hello to @michael-ibk!  He had arranged his Kenya trip so that he’d meet up with us in the Mara at Porini Cheetah in Ol Kinyei and surprise Jane.  Jane was delighted to see him at the airport, as were Sangeeta and I.  Jill and Nancy also enjoyed getting to know Michael better throughout our days together.  Michael and Jill even shared a love of sci-fi, that I admit eludes me.  Jane’s spirits were definitely lifted during Michael’s 3 days with us in the Mara.

Game Drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, 3 of 6 3-month old cubs from Lemuny Pride

 

 

 

Game Drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, 2 of 6 3-month old cubs from Lemuny Pride

 

 

 

Game Drive from Porini Cheetah Conservancies-Lilac-breasted Roller

 

 

 

from Maasai Mara Wildlife Conservancies Association (MMWCA)  at maraconservancies.org

 

 

 

Masai Mara, full day drive from Porini Cheetah

 

 

 

 

Masai Mara, full day drive from Porini Cheetah

 

 

 

 

Game Drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, 2 of 6 3-month old cubs from Lemuny Pride

 

 

 

A 40-minute flight took us from Wilson Airport in Nairobi to Naboisho Ol Seki Airstrip.  Then a 40-minute drive took us to Porini Cheetah in Ol Kinyei, where Michael and I soon began wandering the grounds and  witnessed a kill—A Gray Hornbill caught a frog and flew with it into a tree.

Gray Hornbill with frog, Porini Cheetah grounds

 

 

 Edward and Jackson were our guide and tracker throughout the safari and we were very pleased with their excellent skills and enthusiasm.

Guide Edward on the left and Tracker Jackson on the right at the observation point overlooking the Masai Mara

 

 

 

Masai Mara, full day drive from Porini Cheetah.  These wildebeest are part of the migration.  They are laggards that have yet to cross.

 

 

 

Game Drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, 2 of 6 3-month old cubs from Lemuny Pride

 

 

The conservancy rules generally allow you to do game drives only within the conservancy where you are staying.  One quirk is that Ol Kinyei guests can also visit Naboisho (which we did and enjoyed), but Naboisho guests cannot drive into Ol Kinyei.  Guests from the Mara are not allowed into the conservancies, keeping the number of visitors low.  We had one or two vehicles at most sightings and there were briefly three or four watching the young cheetahs along with us in the shot below.

Game Drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies

 

 

 

Game Drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Family of 3 5-month old cubs

 

 

Here are some of the more well-known conservancies and their approximate acreage.

Lemek                                    19,000 acres

Mara North                            68,000 acres

Naboisho                               50,000 acres

Ol Kinyei                                 18,700 acres

Olare Motorogi                     35,000 acres

 

Game Drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, 3 of 6 3-month old cubs from Lemuny Pride

 

 

 

Game Drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, 3 of 6 3-month old cubs from Lemuny Pride

 

 

 

The total acreage of the 15 conservancies is 347,011 acres per Maasai Mara Wildlife Conservancies Association (MMWCA) in 2019 and the total acreage of the Masai Mara Natioanl Reserve is 373,000 acres.  I have seen some other figures that have conservancy acreage at 350,000+.  Whatever the specific numbers at the moment, the trend is that the combined conservancies are meeting and may someday be exceeding the acreage of the national reserve.  How exciting for the local land owners!  How beneficial for the wildlife that can extend their ranges and increase their numbers with more habitat!

Game Drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Ilkisiusiu Pride of 3 males, 3 females, about 16 cubs of various ages.  These are 10 months old.

 

 

 

 

Game Drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, 2 subadult cubs from family of 3.

 

 

 

Day 16  Nov 11  Afternoon Game Drive of Night 1 Porini Cheetah

The first big siting of our afternoon game drive was in keeping with the theme of the trip...elephants! 

Game Drive from Porini Cheetah, Ol Kinyei Conservancy

 

 

 

Game Drive from Porini Cheetah, Ol Kinyei Conservancy, Little Bee Eater

 

 

 

Jill observing plains game in Ol Kinyei Conservancy

 

 

 

Plains game observing Jill in Ol Kinyei Conservancy

 

 

 

Game Drive from Porini Cheetah, Ol Kinyei Conservancy, young jackal

 

 

 

Edward and Jackson worked hard to try to locate the two females and six 3-month old cubs of the Lemuny Pride.  Just before the light disappeared they found them.  There were also 3 males that we never saw.

Game Drive from Porini Cheetah, Ol Kinyei Conservancy, Lemuny pride

 

 

 

Edited January 12, 2022 by Atravelynn

[madaboutcheetah]

I loved my time at Naboisho too ....... Haven't been in Ol Kinyei .... Lynn are those cheetah cubs Entito's? 

[Atravelynn]

12 hours ago, madaboutcheetah said:

I loved my time at Naboisho too ....... Haven't been in Ol Kinyei .... Lynn are those cheetah cubs Entito's? 

Indeed they are.

[Atravelynn]

Day 17 Nov 12  Morning Game Drive of Day 1 at Porini Cheetah

Throughout this trip, I had noted the lack of warthogs for some reason.  That deficiency was about to change with numerous piglets added for emphasis.

Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies

 

 

 

Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies

 

 

 

Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies

 

 

 

Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies

 

 

We usually tried for lions early, when they would be most active.  The Southern Pride (aka Samp Enkare) with two males, four females, and a dozen cubs under a year old were out and about.

Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Southern Pride

 

 

 

Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Southern Pride

 

 

 

Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Southern Pride

 

 

 

Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies.  There are 2 ostrich eggs.

 

 

 

Nancy got her wish for a leopard on our first morning out!  It was a cooperative leopard that we were told was lactating.  Future visitors may be in for a special treat.

Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies

 

 

 

Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies

 

 

 

Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies

 

 

 

Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies

 

 

 

Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies

 

 

 

Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies

 

 

 

During our midday meanderings at camp, Michael pointed out this guy to me.

Spotted Flycatcher, spotted on Porini Cheetah Camp grounds

 

 

 

Day 17 Nov 12  Afternoon Game Drive of Day 1 at Porini Cheetah

Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Crowned Eagle

 

 

 

 

Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, D’Arnaud’s Barbet

 

 

 

Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Von der Decken’s Hornbill-female

 

 

 

Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Von der Decken’s Hornbill-male

 

 

 

Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Agama Lizard

 

 

 

Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Southern Breakaway Pride

 

 

 

Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Tawny Eagle

 

 

 

Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Gray-backed Shrike

 

 

 

The leopard from this morning was in a very leafy tree with a kill, barely visible.

Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Leopard in tree with kill

 

 

 

Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies. Jackal loudly alerting other jackals of the leopard in the tree.

 

 

 

Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies. Jackal loudly alerting other jackals of the leopard in the tree.

 

 

 

Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies.  Hyena looking wistfully up the tree with a leopard and kill obscured by the foliage.

 

 

 

 

Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies

 

 

 

We did a night drive and the highlight was seen very near camp—a Greater Bushbaby.  Several bushbabies were sometimes seen by spotlight in camp at night and this was likely one of them.

Night drive from Porini Cheetah, near camp

Edited January 13, 2022 by Atravelynn

[michael-ibk]

On 1/12/2022 at 4:44 AM, Atravelynn said:

And we said hello to @michael-ibk!  He had arranged his Kenya trip so that he’d meet up with us in the Mara at Porini Cheetah in Ol Kinyei and surprise Jane.

 

Thank you for having me Lynn! It was such a pleasure to spend such quality safari time with all of you! 

 

(The Eagle is an even more interesting bird btw - that´s a Crowned Eagle!)

[BRACQUENE]

Written from the heart @AtravelynnI have rarely read such an inspiring TR ; thanks for everything ! 

[penolva]

On 12/29/2021 at 1:48 AM, Atravelynn said:

Hope the content of safaritalk, along with this report on familiar faces and places, can offer a bit of cheer.  Thanks for the input on # of vehicles.  Seems you need 2 vehicles for 6 participants.  We debated 1 or 2 vehicles for a bit, but all agreed 2 were a necessity for our group of 6.   Not to get into lots of specifics on costs, but when you compare 6 people and 2 vehicles (and of course 2 staff) vs 4 people and 1 vehicle, are the big differences? 

 

Even more cheer for you to plan and ponder your return to the Sheldrick Trust properties, a 3rd visit I believe.

It will be my third visit. Regarding the cost of two vehicles versus one the company I use is very competitive so it works out fine. By doing all our own food shopping etc we can get a great trip for a reasonable cost. Using a company like Gamewatchers takes away all the pressure but at a premium. Pen