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22 hours ago, michael-ibk said:

 

Thank you for having me Lynn! It was such a pleasure to spend such quality safari time with all of you! :)

 

(The Eagle is an even more interesting bird btw - that´s a Crowned Eagle!)  I like MORE interesting!  Thanks.

 

21 hours ago, BRACQUENE said:

Written from the heart @AtravelynnI have rarely read such an inspiring TR ; thanks for everything !   Thank you for those lovely words!

 

19 hours ago, penolva said:

It will be my third visit. Regarding the cost of two vehicles versus one the company I use is very competitive so it works out fine. By doing all our own food shopping etc we can get a great trip for a reasonable cost. Using a company like Gamewatchers takes away all the pressure but at a premium. Pen  Good points on two approaches.  Thank you.

 

 

Day 18 Nov 13  Full Day Game Drive to the Masai Mara National Reserve from Porini Cheetah

Today was 12 hours on the button.  6 am to 6 pm. On our way to the Mara we passed through Ol Kinyei and Naboisho Conservancies.  Our rewarding sightings in the conservancies kept us there until 9:30 am.

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Spot-flanked Barbet

 

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies

 

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Banded Mongoose imitating a meerkat

 

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Striped Kingfisher

 

 

 

Jill reminded us of the beauty of the streams and rivers we crossed.  She liked to pause and admire these landscapes.

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies

 

 

 

While pausing and admiring, we noticed a flash of color.

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Malachite Kingfisher

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Green Pigeon

 

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Cheetah known as Neebati, who has 2 near adult cubs.  Thanks to Hari-Spellcheck, @madaboutcheetah

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Cheetah known as Neebati, and her 2 near adult cubs

 

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Cheetah known as Neebati, and her 2 near adult cubs

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Cheetah known as Neebati, and her 2 near adult cubs

 

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Cheetah known as Entito and her 3 5-month old cubs

 

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Cheetah known as Entito and 1 of 3 5-month old cubs

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, 1 of 3 5-month old cubs

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, 2 of 3 5-month old cubs

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Cheetah known as Entito and 1 of 3 5-month old cubs

 

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, The tail of Cheetah known as Entito and 1 of 3 5-month old cubs

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Cheetah known as Entito and 1 of 3 5-month old cubs

 

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies. Cheetah known as Entito and her 3 5-month old cubs

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, 2 of Entito's 3 5-month old cubs

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, 2 of Entito's 3 5-month old cubs

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, all 3 5-month old cubs

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Lilac-breasted Roller

 

 

Finally, we had traversed the conservancies and enjoyed all they offered to us that morning and were off to the Masai Mara for the rest of the day.

Edited by Atravelynn
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madaboutcheetah

Wow - so nice to see updates on Entito and Neebati .......  I had a lot of good times with both sets of Supermums in January 2021 - Lynn, were these sightings in Naboisho or Ol kinyei?  Any update on the 5 male cheetah coalition?  (online updates are that they are only 4 now as one split off) and the other favourite Selenkei?  

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Day 18 Nov 13  Full Day Game Drive to the Masai Mara National Reserve from Porini Cheetah

The wildebeest migration had not entirely left Kenya and a few stragglers remained in the Masai Mara.

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Masai Mara.  The last of the migrating wildebeest herds.

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Masai Mara, Cattle Egret

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Masai Mara

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Masai Mara.  The only cheetah we saw in the Masai Mara.

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Masai Mara

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Masai Mara.  Secretary Bird in flight.

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Masai Mara Observation Point

 

  

 

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Edward and Jackson from Observation Point, Masai Mara

 

 

 

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Michael, Nancy, Jill, Sangeeta, Edward, Jackson

 

 

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The Mara River on Game drive from Porini Cheetah

 

 

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Spur-winged Lapwing at Mara River during bush lunch

 

 

 

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Mara River during bush lunch

 

 

 

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Mara River during bush lunch

 

 

 

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Mara River during bush lunch, hippo with eles

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Masai Mara landscape

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Masai Mara, Yellow-throated Longclaw

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Masai Mara

 

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Masai Mara

 

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Masai Mara

 

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Masai Mara

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Masai Mara, Rosy-throated Longclaw

 

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Masai Mara, Black-shouldered Kite (juvenile) with prey

 

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Masai Mara, Black-shouldered Kite (adult) with prey

 

 

Edited by Atravelynn
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10 minutes ago, madaboutcheetah said:

Wow - so nice to see updates on Entito and Neebati .Haha, I asked for a spelling and that was off.......I may have to do a correction.  I had a lot of good times with both sets of Supermums in January 2021 - Lynn, were these sightings in Naboisho or Ol kinyei?  Naboisho, but they move between.  Any update on the 5 male cheetah coalition?  (online updates are that they are only 4 now as one split off) and the other favourite Selenkei?  No, nothing.

 

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Day 18 Nov 13  Nighttime Phone Reunion

Around the campfire I asked Camp Manager John if he ever knew a family that lived near the former Mara River Camp named Sedera (sp?).  He did.  I explained how in 2000 and 2001 I had stayed with the first wife of the chief, Mr. Sedera, for several days and spent time with three of his children, Carolyn (about 16), Jonathan (about 18 and I might be off on his name), and Agnes (3).  Carolyn and Jonathan had learned English in school so they could communicate well with me. 

 

The visit came about when in 2000 I was at Mara River Camp in the Masai Mara and my guide asked me if I'd like to do a Masai visit. Since I had done several of these visits, I asked offhand, "Does anyone ever stay overnight?" The response was, "So you would like to stay overnight. It will be arranged."

Before I knew it, I was spending the night with the chief's first wife and their daughters.

 

When I first arrived at the manyatta, I presented the chief's son, Jonathan, with a small gift of packaged dried cranberries because my state of Wisconsin is a big producer. He responded politely, "That is nice, but we eat meat and blood. Did you bring any meat or blood?" Of course, the answer was no.

 

I had such a good time visiting in 2000 that I returned to Mara River Camp and arranged several nights at the Sedera’s the next year, 2001.

But I was prepared with an appropriate gift this next time and came bearing packages of beef jerky. Jonathan immediately remarked, "So you remembered my request from last time."

 

Camp Manager John said, “I have Carolyn’s number here on my phone, let me call her.”  He did and Carolyn and I talked about 15 minutes and recounted our visit 20 years earlier.  Carolyn and her own family live near the place where I first met her as a girl and she invited me for another visit.  Though I had to decline, I told her that I hoped we could make contact in the future sometime.  What a touching, if brief, reunion and one more reason to return to the Masai Mara.

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Back in 2000 inside the Sedera's house.  Carolyn and me and her brother Jonathan (I think is his name) and me

 

 

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Back in 2000.  Goats and me.

 

 

 

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Back in 2000.  Exiting the manyatta.

 

Time flies

 

Edited by Atravelynn
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Day 19 Nov 14  Morning Game Drive of Day 4 Porini Cheetah

Morning dung wrestling with the lion cubs.

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Lemuny pride with 6 cubs

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Lemuny pride with 6 cubs

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Lemuny pride with 6 cubs

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Lemuny pride with 6 cubs

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Lemuny pride with 6 cubs

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Lemuny pride with 6 cubs

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Lemuny pride with 6 cubs

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Lemuny pride with 6 cubs

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Lemuny pride with 6 cubs

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Black-headed Oriole hiding half of its black head.

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Banded Mongoose

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Scavenging

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Lappet-faced Vultures

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Lappet-faced Vulture

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah,Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush

 

 

Our morning included a stop the airstrip to send Michael off after his 3 nights with us at Porini Cheetah.  He made a memorable exit from the vehicle when his shorts caught on the door handle and ripped.  The tear was severe but fell short of embarrassment.  Unfortunately, the shorts could not be salvaged.  I know because I inquired post-safari.

 

Some camp birds hopping about:

 

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Black-faced Waxbill at Porini Cheetah

 

 

 

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White-browed Robin Chat at Porini Cheetah

 

 

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Purple Grenadier at Porini Cheetah

 

 

Flying above camp:

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 Black-chested Snake Eagle at Porini Cheetah

Edited by Atravelynn
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3 hours ago, NancyS said:

I love your photos, especially the lion cubs!!!  Thanks.  There are lots of those!  A few more kick off this post.

 

16 hours ago, Athene said:

Just wanted to join the many others in praising your truly fantastic and inspirational trip report @Atravelynn

Thank you, it was a very special one.

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Lemuny Pride with 6 cubs

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Lemuny Pride with 6 cubs

 

 

 

Jui and Nirmalya Banerjee are the managers of Cheetah Porini and they set the tone for the great bush vibe in camp.  They are such wildlife enthusiasts and their passion for the bush is evident.  They joined us at every meal and were a delight.  Nirmalya  referred to himself and Jui as a “crazy Indian couple” because they took such a risk to trade a more conventional, secure lifestyle for a bush camp existence.  I told him I agreed they were crazy—crazy about the wildness of the African bush. 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Lemuny Pride with 6 cubs

 

 

The Banerjees have put their all  into this camp to make Porini Cheetah a success and they are living their dream in the process.  Hopefully they will be able to share that dream with many more new visitors and returning ones in the years ahead.

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Lemuny Pride with 6 cubs

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Lemuny Pride with 6 cubs

 

 

More on Jui and Nirmalya and their passion for Kenya:

https://economictimes.indiatimes.com/magazines/travel/smitten-by-kenyan-wildlife-a-couple-set-up-the-only-indian-hosted-tented-camp-in-ol-kinyei-conservancy/articleshow/59610756.cms?from=mdr

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Ilkisiusiu Pride of 3 males, 3 females, about 16 cubs

 

 

Porini Cheetah has an Indian chef to serve their native cuisine, in addition to the standard chef and kitchen staff.  That meant there was outstanding Indian food they could offer to guests.  Where else in African can you get not-too-spicy Indian food inside and Greater Bush Babies hanging over the lounge outside?

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Lemuny Pride with 6 cubs

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Lemuny Pride with 6 cubs

 

 

Another advantage of Porini Cheetah (besides good Indian food) is that guests can do game drives in Naboisho as well as Ol Kinyei, and we did so with outstanding results.  However, clients in Naboisho camps cannot, as a rule, do game drives in Ol Kinyei.  That meant we watched lions and a leopard with 0 to 1 other vehicles and cheetahs with 0 to 2 and briefly a 3rd other vehicle and the romping lion cubs with just 1 other vehicle from our camp.

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Neebati and 2 near adult cubs

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Lemuny Pride with 6 cubs

 

 

One comment Jui and Nirmalya made to us is something to remember when visiting any of the conservancies or lands owned by the local people.  We should thank these local people for making it possible for us to visit and for sharing the beauty of their homelands with us.  It is their land after all.

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Lemuny Pride with 6 cubs

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Lemuny Pride with 6 cubs

 

Edited by Atravelynn
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Day 19 Nov 14 Afternoon Game Drive of Day 4 Porini Cheetah

Grazing is allowed in parts of Naboisho but not in Ol Kinyei.  It was Sunday, and the regular adult pastoralists were taking some time off and their teenage counterparts took over the cattle keeping duties.

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Limited grazing is allowed in Naboisho, shown here.  It is not allowed in Ol Kinyei.

 

 

The teens brought their cows to Ol Kinyei, in violation of the rules, and one cow was killed by two lionesses. The rangers were summoned and the lionesses were scared off of the dead cow and into the brush.  A meeting between rangers and pastoralists took place at the spot the cow was killed. The rangers removed the carcass to prevent the lionesses from being rewarded with meat after killing a cow.  We came upon this meeting, observing from afar. 

 

These were the lionesses with the 6 young cubs and we figured our chances of seeing them that afternoon were ruined because they would be too spooked to come out of the brush for hours after all the commotion and human presence.  Wrong! The pastoralists left and then rangers drove off. Before the dust from their vehicle had settled, out came a lioness from the brush right to where the kill had been made. 

 

She looked around, puzzled that the cow had disappeared, and began lapping up some of the remaining blood.  Shortly after that, the rangers called us on the radio from around the bend to let us know the other lioness was out with the cubs.  What ensued was a magical afternoon and evening of lion cub frolics!  While Jane was not with us on this drive, she did get to see, enjoy and photograph the adorable lion cubs earlier in the morning light.

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Lemuny Pride with 6 3-month old cubs

 

 

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Try as I might, I could not get all six cubs in one shot.  This next photo contains four of them.

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Lemuny Pride with 4 of the  6 3-month old cubs

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Lemuny Pride, 1 of 2 lionesses and 1 of 6 3-month old cubs

 

 

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The six lion cubs, all the same age at three months, were from a litter of four and a litter of two.  They often tussled in twos or threes.  At one point, the play of two cubs was escalating to excessive roughness.  Both lionesses, in unison, merely stood up and gazed at the pair.  The two cubs immediately halted and tore off in separate directions.  The lionesses sat back down.  Message given; message received.

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Lemuny Pride with 6 3-month old cubs and 2 lionesses

 

The light was gone when playtime finally ended and it was time for some hydration.

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Lemuny Pride with 6 3-month old cubs and 2 lionesses

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Conservancies, Lemuny Pride with 6 3-month old cubs and 2 lionesses

 

 

Edited by Atravelynn
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Day 20 Nov 15  Final Morning Game Drive of Porini Cheetah

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Sanctuaries, Ilkisiusiu Pride

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Sanctuaries, Ilkisiusiu Pride

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Sanctuaries, Ilkisiusiu Pride

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Sanctuaries

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Sanctuaries. Dik dik marking territory with preorbital gland.

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Sanctuaries, Near adult cubs of cheetah known as Neebati

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Sanctuaries, Near adult cubs, Neebati and cubs

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Sanctuaries, Near adult cubs of cheetah known as Neebati

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Sanctuaries, Near adult cubs of cheetah known as Neebati

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Sanctuaries, Neebati and cubs

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Sanctuaries, Neebati and cubs

 

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah, Sanctuaries, Lilac-breasted Roller

 

 

After an early lunch, we got our covid tests from the doctor who came to the camp.  Results to be emailed to Sangeeta the next day. (all negatives, thank goodness)

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Ever-present waterbuck just outside of Porini Cheetah Camp

 

 

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Game drive from Porini Cheetah to the airstrip for our departure

 

 

Jackson took it upon himself to clear the airstrip by running up and down waving his garments.  There was an official airstrip clearer who used a motorbike but our flight was early and this official was not on the scene.

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Jackson clearing the airstrip of animals, as the plane that will take us away comes in

 

 

A Mara memory and photo, thanks to Michael, the photographer of the shot.

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Guide Edward and safaritalkers who became travel buddies and friends with many good times shared over the years.   Jane (in vehicle), Sangeeta, and Lynn

 

 

Next is the final day in Nairobi and the conclusion

Edited by Atravelynn
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Day 20 Nov 15  

A 50-minute flight from the Naboisho Ol Seki airstrip brought us back to Nairobi where 4/5 of the remaining team went to the Sheridan and 1/5 went to Gamewatchers Nairobi Tented Camp.  When our Gamewatchers transfer drivers showed up at the airport without the luggage we had left with them, we asked that it be delivered to us that night.  Mission accomplished.  Gamewatchers deserves credit for quickly reacting so that the we were not inconvenienced.  It meant they had to deliver bags to two locations, one deep inside the park, and they did. 

 

At the Nairobi National Park gate, I switched out of the airport transfer vehicle driven by Andrew and into the game drive vehicle where Gordon was my guide who drove me to Gamewatchers Nairobi Tented Camp.

 

I was the only guest in camp that night and the staff made me feel at home and fed me well.

 

 

Day 21 Nov 16

Guide Gordon and I did a morning game drive.

 

We saw both black and white rhino, but I kept no photos.  The white rhino was very visible and in the clear; the black rhino required binoculars for a view.

 

Gordon stated that lion sightings occurred primarily in the mornings. In my own unscientific sample of 3 morning visits and 3 afternoon visits over a span of almost 30 years, I’ve been 3 for 3 in the morning and 0 for 3 in the afternoon when it comes to lions in Nairobi National Park.

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Nairobi National Park, Sirikoi is the name of this male

 

 

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Nairobi National Park, Sirikoi (the male) and one of two lionesses in his pride

 

 

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Nairobi National Park, Sirikoi’s pride

 

 

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Nairobi National Park

 

 

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Nairobi National Park

 

 

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Nairobi National Park

 

 

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Nairobi National Park, White-backed Vulture

 

 

When we came back to camp, Gordon continued his guiding on foot to help me find some tiny and elusive Suni Antelope that often hung out around camp.  @michael-ibkhad alerted me to the suni's presence at the camp when he stayed there on his first night in Kenya, before joining us for 3 nights at Porini Cheetah in the Mara. 

 

Gordon and I glimpsed one speedy male suni scampering about trying to attract the attention of the ladies.  He attracted mine but promptly disappeared into the forest.  With only moments left in camp before I was checking out, two staff members found a suni behind the staff quarters that was very photographable.  I was highly appreciative of their extra effort to make one of their guests happy.

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The tiny and elusive Suni Antelope (female) at Gamewatchers Nairobi Tented Camp

 

 

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The tiny and elusive Suni Antelope (female)  at Gamewatchers Nairobi Tented Camp

 

 

 

Off to @optig's (Owen’s) with Gamewatcher staff member Andrew at the wheel, where Sangeeta joined us shortly, for a delightful afternoon and lunch at Owen's lovely Nairobi apartment. And some good wine as I recall!  We were lucky to catch Owen between safaris!

 

Our negative covid test results were in Sangeeta’s inbox and she printed out a copy of each of our reports.  There also was a new ruling that had been issued while we were in the bush to complete another covid-related document in order to board the plane and Sangeeta provided this for us too.  And you really do have to re-confirm Kenya Airways flights, which Nancy and Sangeeta teamed up to do the last day in Nairobi at the Sheridan dayroom.  Thank you both!

 

At our final dinner that night at the Sheridan before flying to our respective homes we all reflected on the meaningful time we had spent together in Kenya and how the Sheldrick’s elephants had touched our lives.

 

Jane was so touched by these Sheldrick’s orphans that her memorial requested contributions to Sheldrick’s in lieu of flowers.  Jane’s quote of the trip that was so applicable for the safari we undertook together also applies to the tremendous success the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust has achieved in re-integrating the elephant orphans back to their homeland and herd and preserving the habitat for those herds.  Teamwork makes the dream work.

 

 

Here are some sweet Sheldrick’s faces in closing.

 

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The End

Edited by Atravelynn
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@AtravelynnThank you for this wonderful TripReport, it gave me much more insight in the work of the Sheldrick Foundation.

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10 hours ago, Biko said:

@AtravelynnThank you for this wonderful TripReport, it gave me much more insight in the work of the Sheldrick Foundation.

They are an exceptional organization.

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madaboutcheetah

Thanks so much for writing up this report, Lynn ......  

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 Sad that All Good Things Must Come To An End  but what a wonderful and special report in every respect @AtravelynnMany thanks

 

PS Not sure why but in particular that photo of Edward and Jackson from Observation Point, Masai Mara really speaks to me of Africa - it's got me hankering ........

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@Atravelynn
From the start to that intense end with twelve closeups that will stay in my mind for a long time an example for us all how Africa should be shown !

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A wonderful and moving report - thank you! I have passed on the link to a friend who has always loved elephants but yet to visit Africa. Hopefully this will inspire her to do so.

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Thank you so much for the wonderful trip report and photos!

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a beautiful, heartwarming report, thank you

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Beautiful and powerful report @Atravelynnespecially loved the Suni shots, both snakes, the night wildlife at Umani and those stunning big tuskers at Ithumba - thanks!

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thank you for such an awesome job in detailing all the necessary information in the current fluid conditions once again, and such a meaningful, poignant remembrance of Jane. 

 

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Thank you for a wonderful report. Heartwarming and moving.

And of course excellent photos!

 

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