From Rain Forest to Rhino

[kilopascal]

On 8/4/2022 at 8:24 PM, Atravelynn said:

This place is a wealth of knowledge!

Indeed it is. Leaving for the Pantanal in 4 weeks and I would have never had this on 'the list' if it weren't for this place. I will remind George he is supposed to be calling Mr. Kajiru!

[kilopascal]

Geez. I guess I need to finish this! Mkomzi was fascinating and I hope to return to see it in green season. It is a beautiful park with what I think are the Pare Mountains as the backdrop. It was very dry which was to be expected at that time of year. so not al that photogenic and my landscape skills zero. It reminded both George and me of Tarangire for some reason. You can see some of the same species here like Lesser Kudu that you might see in Tarangire. 

 

 

We spent the morning following various roads collecting a number of birds, lots of giraffe, eland, and zebra and then I spotted the lesser kudu. The bad news.... they are very very shy. Even the zebra are super cautious here. The kudu were gone within seconds of spotting them. Shortly after we also saw gerenuk which remained very well hidden and kept a close eye on us.  When we talked with a guide, Kabeta, at the rhino sanctuary the next day he told us many of these animals migrate back and forth to Tsavo and that there is a problem with illegal hunting there so they are very skittish. Lots of birds though. And George spotted some fairly fresh lion tracks.

 

During wetter months there are several places with water, but right now only a single water source on the Dindira road. So this was where we parked to spend the afternoon and see what arrived.

 

 

 

 

 

The elephants were already there when we arrived and even though we remained quite a ways back, they immediately made their way to the opposite bank and when they finally exited, kept their distance.

 

Pangani long claw I think?

 

African Harrier hawk

 

Stay tuned for morning action at the water hole and a trip to the rhino sanctuary.

 

 

Edited August 12, 2022 by kilopascal
duplicate pictures

[Atravelynn]

Pangani Longclaw, as impressive as the African Violets.  Great time to be in the Pantanal!

[kilopascal]

Hi @Atravelynn. George talked to the botanist Abduel Kajiru about the best time to see violets and he told him September and October.

[Atravelynn]

Great, I have emailed him at the old address I had plus at info@detasa.com

 

Thank YOU for doing the intermediary work.

[kilopascal]

Day 2 at Mkomazi. We get to the gate shortly after 7 to check in  and to pay go to the rhino sanctuary. You will need a credit card for this, they do not take cash.  I would have to agree with George, these are the friendliest rangers I have ever met. They love their park and are very very excited to have you come visit. They had just installed a new computer system so there was a little struggle but not bad. We leave and George says 'let's see if we find those lions today'. 

 

George thinks we should check out the water hole first thing and it was indeed quite the social affair this morning. Everyone either already drinking or on their way.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[kilopascal]

I have been sitting in the front and am going to move to the back with the pop-up roof. I open the door and do the quick scan around and

"Oh shit!". and I quickly shut the door.

George: "What"

Me: "Lion. Right there". 

There is a lovely female 20-30 meters away hanging out by a bush.

George: "Good job". Adding the fist bump.

Me: "Well, she's kind of hard to miss. What happened to your super duper guide skills. Were you sleeping?"

George laughing: "I wasn't expecting."

"Yeah. Me neither!"

George: "So where are her friends"

And sure enough back under some pretty thick bushes are a male and 3 more females. She gets up casually and goes to join them. Unlike almost every other animal here she doesn't seem too fussed about the car.

 

 

 

We are pretty excited as from what I can gather it's not real common to see them. George says "Now, let's move back so all those zebra and eland will move up and we might see some action". Shortly after we move a very poorly looking eland moves straight toward them and within what would seem striking distance. But even the lions weren't impressed with this specimen. As the zebra start moving closer two of the lions 'wake up' and the one we first saw moves to a new position and crouches down. But...zebra are clever. They know somethings up and take a very wide detour, eventually making it to the water. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[inyathi]

@kilopascal

 

Great report, I birded in the Usambaras some years ago, so it’s good to see a report from there. Nice to see shots of wild African Violets, I have seen a plant somewhere in Tanzania although not in the Usambaras, but unfortunately it wasn’t in flower. Also, great to see a report on Mkomazi, we just camped there for one night on the way back to Arusha, it poured with rain through the night, which wasn't great as some of the water came into my tent and I didn’t get to see a lot of the park, the rhino sanctuary was still relatively new, so it wasn’t possible to see the rhinos, looking forward to seeing more of Mkomazi and hearing about the rhinos.

 

Your African Harrier Hawk is actually an Eastern Chanting Goshawk, the barring on the breast gives away that it is a goshawk, there's another one in your shot at the waterhole with what I guess is a Tawny Eagle.   

[kilopascal]

Thank you for the bird correction @inyathiThis is always appreciated. Especially with explanations of why what is what. A hopeless nonbirder who still loves looking at them!! 

[kilopascal]

I’m guessing the bright orange legs were a clue as well!

[inyathi]

@kilopascalThanks, except that what I said was not in fact hugely helpful, as I see having had a proper look at my books that of course, the African Harrier Hawk does have a barred breast as well, , the major giveaway though is the size and shape, the Harrier Hawk also called Gymnogene is a much bigger bird and has a distinctive head shape that is quite different to a goshawk, the Dark Chanting Goshawk wouldn't occur in Mkomazi, but does occur in East Africa,  it is a little smaller with red legs and a red cere, the Eastern has orange legs as you say and then a bright yellow cere. The African Harrier Hawk also has a yellow cere so really it is the size and shape that best distinguishes them, they also fly quite differently. 

[kilopascal]

Once again not doing a good job of finishing a trip report and since I leave for Brazil in 9 days I better get after it. So I left off with us sitting near the water, waiting for lions to make a move, but they continued to do what lions do best. And by now the news was out to all going to the water that 'hey, there are lions in the bushes'. A large bus with local tourists drives by but sadly does not stop to ask us what we are looking at, so they miss the lions.

 

The day before, sometime in the afternoon we drove by the entrance to the rhino sanctuary and George asked at the gate about when to come. The gate keeper said either 9:30 or 3:30 is good. So our plan for the day was to go there about 3 or so. Turns out gatekeepers don't really know. Today is Eid al-Adha and there is no school, and there are a couple of families here with kids that are just leaving. One of the people with them is a guide-in-training that we met at the Mkomazi gate and he asks George what we've seen. George tells him about the lions and there is an immediate buzz and flurry of activity getting kids into the car. George gives them the location and they go flying out. The guide at the sanctuary tells George that it's unusual for tourists to see the lions here so we feel quite fortunate. There is a nice new building that you go into with pictures of the 6 rhino that are at the sanctuary and someone will give the the history of how it came about. Turns out today is the 1 year anniversary for the opening of the sanctuary.

 

 

So off we go to meet Jabu. The sanctuary is not what either of us were expecting. I had it in my head that it would be like the old pictures you see of the original rhino breeding area that had been set up by Tony Fitzjohn. As I mentioned before, George had been there many years back and was expecting the same, and while that still exists for the continued breeding of rhinos, that is not what this is. This is a beautiful  sanctuary that is divided in two sections surrounded by a very tall fence with electric wire at the top. How big I'm not quite sure. I thought Kabeta told us 13 square kilometers although that seems small for what we saw. One internet source reads 55 sq km. I It looks like much of the rest of Mkomazi and they will drive you out through this. They have guards or rangers who go out and have an idea of where the rhino might be, but it is pretty heavy brush to they can be a little hard to find. There is also a guard tower outside of the sanctuary to watch for any poachers.  Kabeta found Jabu quickly and then to our delight drove us right up to him. He is pretty relaxed and Kabeta talks to him a bit. You can tell that he is very attached to these animals.

 

 

 

There are other animals here as well. Lots of eland and some kudu. Even the occasional fringe-earred oryx. Kabeta tells us they chase away lion and leopard. Cheetah can stay. How a lion would get past the fence is a mystery to me. I can't recall now what the gates look like but they were also quite tall, but perhaps that's the weak point. The other 2 rhino in this section are no where to be found and it is getting a bit late. Kabeta tells George that coming early in the morning is best. I tell George we should come back tomorrow. George says "You mean pay again?"  "Yes" I mean for $36.40 for me and about $5 for George in the big picture of what I spend on travel, this is a bargain. George asks Kabeta and he seems quite pleased that we want to come back as is George. So that's the plan. Now I have to go do some work. After all they are paying me. But I promise I will finish this up in the next 24 hours. No, really. I will.

[Biko]

@kilopascalThanks for continuing your trip report on Mkomazi. Did you hear anything about their breeding program with wild dogs? Looking forward to the next episode.

By the way, I know how it feels once you are almost at the end, it seems to be more difficult to finish the TR.

[kilopascal]

49 minutes ago, Biko said:

By the way, I know how it feels once you are almost at the end, it seems to be more difficult to finish the TR.

Hi @BikoYes. We went there the following day. When you pay for the rhino sanctuary it also includes the wild dogs. It's quite a ways from the rhino so we didn't have enough time that afternoon.

 

[inyathi]

@kilopascal

 

If I recall rightly the Di Caprio Foundation paid to have the sanctuary enlarged a few years ago, I am not sure how much bigger it was made, probably if I searched online, I could find out, this was I think whilst Tony was still in charge before TANAPA took it over. I won’t say much more as I hope you know more about the sanctuary than I do, as I’ve not been into the sanctuary. As I expect you know, Tony died from cancer back in May, it is very sad that he didn’t live long enough to see Mkomazi start exporting rhinos to new homes elsewhere in Tanzania, this next step isn't too far away. Following his death, I reread his memoir Born Wild, without him, it is fair to say there would be no rhino sanctuary and no Mkomazi National Park.

 

I will await your next visit to see the rhinos with interest     

 

[kilopascal]

On 8/30/2022 at 10:11 AM, kilopascal said:

But I promise I will finish this up in the next 24 hours. No, really. I will.

[kilopascal]

Leaving for Brazil in 3 days and nothing in the suitcase so better finish now or it will never happen. The next day we were at the sanctuary around 7:45 I guess. Jabu and the two females in one section had already had water and moved out. Bernard was drinking in the other section, but then one of the females was running in and he quickly backed up. We thought there might be a bit of a tussle. She seemed quite aggressive but after a brief but quiet standoff, both were drinking. There are big water tanks that are opened up twice a day for them to get water.

 

 

 

 

 

A large group of eland are waiting their turn

 

 

 

 

A fleeting glimpse of lesser kudu, but they did hold still longer than those out in the park.

 

[kilopascal]

The wild dog breeding area is a significant distance away from the rhino sanctuary and difficult to find. No signs indicating where to go. Kabeta had told George which road to take, but there were several places where a decision was needed. George had been there many many years back and remembered that it was on the side of the hill so we just kept heading in the direction he thought was right. If you don't have someone with you that has been there make sure and get good directions.

 

There is a house that Tony Fitzjohn had lived in and several other stone buildings that house equipment and work shops. Then a very large enclosed area for the dogs. If  seeing them confined would trouble you, then probably give this a miss. The enclosure is quite large and exceptionally clean. They were not aware that we were coming and there was no sign of feces anywhere. It did smell like in house a large group of wild dogs but they seem well cared for. We met two of the workers. The head keeper speaks reasonable English but still  it was nice to have George there to translate. During the visit they let me go just inside the gate for a brief minute for photos, with the keeper standing there. This freaked out George a bit. Once I was back out they brought out the days snack and it was tied to the tree. This is not the only food source. I suspect they are feed a commercial food but I forgot to ask. George was told that a couple of packs have been released in Mkomazi. I don't know the outcome. As we were leaving they asked me if I had any more questions and I said no, but within twenty minutes I'm thinking of all sorts. Do they release dogs elsewhere? Have they tracked those released and where did they go? How many dogs are kept there? etc. Guess I will have to get those answers another time. or maybe from one of you that visits.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As were are leaving they ask me to "please tell people about us". So here's me doing that.

Edited September 6, 2022 by kilopascal
grammar

[kilopascal]

Okay. Done. Just some thoughts...

 

I went back to Amani primarily because I enjoyed the area so much on a previous visit and wanted to do some hiking there, and for that it was excellent and for the birders among you that will be a big additional bonus. I would definitely recommend hiring someone local. There are several but skills definitely vary. I can't rate the guy we were with as I wouldn't have a clue. George said he was 'okay'. He did know exactly where to take us for various birds, including the gardens of the Anglican church which were very productive. If you are interested in the plants there, a day with a botanist would be well worth it. The fee for these guides in this area is not high.

 

The accommodation was fine. Rustic yes. It is being remodeled so let's see. And you cannot beat the price. Food was plentiful. Basic Tanzanian and well prepared. People exceptionally friendly but not in an over the top way. No one here trying to sell you anything.

 

Mkomazi is a wonderful park and I hope to return and see it in green season. You certainly won't see the volume of mammals here as in other parks, but you won't see other tourists either. Again, birders will be pretty happy here. There is a trip report from Holmen Birding Safaris from February 2020 with excellent pictures of birds seen here over the 8 days.

https://www.holmen-birding-safari.com/trip-reports/mkomazi-february-2020/

 

Two things I wanted to see and didn't: fringe eared oryx and vulturine guinea fowl. Definitely need to go back.

And as always, George Mbonea Mbwambo, excellent company and guide. I have heard his email from his website Destination Serengeti may not work. I have let him know this. Should anyone wish for his What's App contact just let me know.

 

[kilopascal]

Oh, one last thing. A visit to the rhino sanctuary should be very early in the morning. 7-7:30 would be best.

[kilopascal]

And I see I added in a bird just for good measure at the end.  Female Hartlaub's bustard?

Edited September 6, 2022 by kilopascal
spelling

[Biko]

Thanks @kilopascalfor finishing your trip report. I really appreciate the information about Mkomazi. I had to postpone my planned trip from October until…. maybe the green season is a good idea.

Have a great trip to Brazil.

Edited September 6, 2022 by Biko

[kilopascal]

Sorry to hear that @BikoHope everything is okay. Green season should be beautiful.

 

[dlo]

A big thanks from me as well @kilopascal. As you know I've contacted George because of this report and hopefully we can combine some serengeti with at least some of your itinerary if time allows.

 

Also I got an email from him this morning and he seems very serious about his game drives telling he prefers "hard core" all day drives. Honestly what more could you want👍

[kilopascal]

Yeah @dloGeorge isn't much of a mid day break kind of guide which I really like. If you want to go back it's fine with him, but he prefers getting out early and staying out all day. I mean what if you see something you don't want to leave because of lunch?? Disastrous. I hope your plans work out. There are other reports here of traveling with him by @mapumbo and less recently @Atravelynn. You've got to be a serious guide to keep up with the likes of Lynn!