Uganda - a dream come true

[TonyQ]

A wonderful report with excellent photos 

You describe the gorilla experience exceptionally well 

[Dave Williams]

Thanks for sharing your trip , some excellent sightings along the way!

[ShirleyD]

Day 9 - 6th Sept - Part one 

 

Penultimate day and a day where 'Gold meet Silver'

 

Up early and bags packed. Sat outside my door was the hotels dog. a lovely old thing that was super friendly. Not sure if it's been there all night as it followed me over last night, but it looks pretty settled on the chair. Breakfast is early and it was excellent and very filling. We collect our packed lunches as we won't be returning to the lodge. We had hoped that we could return for lunch but as we are unable to give a definite time they can't offer that facility as they normal do a buffet  but being the only guest it's not an option

 

Hotel summary - Travellers Rest Inn - Another good 'budget' lodge. There isn't much choice of budget places close to the park, Yes, it' feels a bit dated but it's comfortable. Nice big bed, with a cute bit of towel art with a fresh flower from the garden when I arrived. Spacious bathroom, again a bit dated but functional with a good strong hot shower. The bar area was quite large and obviously a popular meeting place. Nice fire and lots of interesting Congolese artwork all around the lodge (all for sale). The staff were super friendly and helpful, especially with the power issue in the bar. Food was excellent and as always good portion sizes

                                                     

Off we set towards Mgahinga NP and the Virunga Volcanoes, down one of the worst roads of the trip. An intense African massage road  probably not helped by the current torrential rains. We bumped along for a good while despite it not being very away, it must have been a good 45 mins. The peaks of three volcanoes hidden by low clouds  

 

 I wasn't sure what to expect from today. After having such a fantastic day yesterday surely anything would be a bit of anti climax? How difficult would the trek be? How close would the monkeys be? Would they be high up and shy? Vianney said it was a steep walk up the volcano, would i struggle like Kibale? We pull into the carpark and there are only a few vehicles. I love the sign 'Where Gold meets Silver' as there's a Mountain Gorilla family here.

 

The local community group are performing and there are only three other people there....seemed a bit strange, the lack of people! A few more people arrive and we move inside for our briefing once the group has finished performing. More and more people arrive and it is now quite full. A small group are here for the gorilla trek and they leave to meet their guide and we are split into two groups. I opt for a porter again as i found it to be invaluable yesterday and it was money well spent and it supports the local community. Only two of us opt for porters as its a fairly young group. We set off on a fairly easy pathway through the forest, once again i opt for using a walking stick as it was very helpful yesterday . The path is a bit slippy and tricky in places but in comparison to Bwindi it wasn't too bad and our guide decides that I am to be the pacemaker.  We stop regularly and our guide talks about the park and flora and fauna,  every so often we come into a clearing and can see little glimpses of volcano peaks. We are in thick bamboo forest and our guide points out that we are close to the gorilla family as we see fresh scat on the pathway. All that vegetation doesn't half make them loose!! Today the gorilla trekkers have an easier walk than the monkey groups. We have a steep incline and told to mask up, leave out bags and sticks with the rangers and porters. Monkeys are only moments away (after about a two hour walk). Camera's at the ready we make our way up to a small clearing. Oh my goodness, the little monkeys were everywhere, running passed us and up the bamboo  I really hadn't expected them to be quite so close. They ran along a fallen tree right in front of me. A couple were play fighting feet away. rolling around then chasing each other up the bamboo. A little hand appears under the fallen tree trying to grab at someone's boot laces and we're told to move back. Far from being shy little creatures they are completely comfortable in our company. I turn around and monkey is perched on the bamboo right behind me, happily stripping a chunk and munches away at it. Magical1 Thankfully I wasn't stood under the one who decided to have a pee.

 

 

The group move away and we follow, the 1st group have just had there 2 minute warning, so our time is about to end soon too., We are joined by the group who had been on the gorilla trek, which they said was brilliant...well it would be. But an extra bonus for them, the monkeys too. Sadly way too soon our hour is over. Far from being an anti-climax this has been an amazing experience. 

 

We say goodbye to the trackers and I'm quite shocked by the lack of tips given to them. But perhaps that's just me. The walk down is hard on the knees and i'm grateful for both my porter and walking stick. Its starts to rain so we stop and all pull out our waterproof jackets, Thankfully it doesn't last long and it hasn;t made the path too muddy. The guide asks if we would like to stop for a lunch break but everyone decides we would push on. Many hadn't brought any lunch and I knew we had a quite a drive from here, as did others. On the way down the full extent of the refugee camp could be seen. I have read recently that there were plans to close it, Very sad. 

 

We pass the 1st group as we are practically power walking down the pathway, and arrive back at reception in reasonably good time, i take a little bit of lava stone as a souvenir. I promised Vianey,in jest, I'd not be the last out of the forest and I managed it...just. I thank the guide, rangers and my porter and make my way back to the car park, very happy with the mornings trek. I've taken over 300 pics most of which were of golden blurs, but what a phenomenal experience It's nearly two and we need to set off to get to Lake Mburo as i have a night safari booked. More of day 9 to follow. 

[KiwiGran]

Really enjoying your report. Thank you

[ShirleyD]

 

Day 9 - Part 2

 

As it's late (ish) when I arrive back at the vehicle, we set off straight away and I eat my packed lunch as Vianney drives back down the rough road. We bump along slowly until we are finally back on the main road. Sadly the volcanoes remain hidden by clouds so no decent pictures. We have quite a drive and the road is quite windy so it was quite slow. Quick stop off for a pic of Lake Bunyonyi from a distance. 

 

 

We have been driving for awhile and the sky is getting darker and darker, then the heavens open and visibility is zero and we crawl along until it finally eases off. It looks like we will have to go straight to the gate for the night drive and check in to the lodge afterwards as it's taken longer than it normally would to get here. Finally we pull off the main road down and I hope we've not got far too go as its now 7 when we should be checking in. It takes another half an hour on a rough road. I'm astounded by the locals who are wandering along this dark road without lighting or even torches. Maybe their eyesight is more accustomed to the darkness, as we pass numerous people walking along the roadside I can see very little away from the headlights of the vehicle  

 

We finally arrive at the gate and the rangers that are not out on game drives have gone for the evening, Vianney says that the drive might not be possible but there's a bit of negotiating going on and a man disappears on a bike. I'm quite happy to postpone the drive till the morning but as is typical of the Ugandan's they don't want to let me down. I'm told a guide is on the way and while we are waiting they sort out a spotlight. It doesn't work and I feel fate is trying to tell me something. Eventually we set off with a smaller spotlight. It's not long before we see the eyes of bushbabies glinting back at us, as a few shadowy shapes in the distance. One the vehicles is finishing their game drive and we follow it back so we can take their spotlight which is vastly better than the one we have. We set off again and it's obvious that my guide has had a tip off re the location of a leopard. We pull up and we a see a pair of eyes glinting back and then disappear. We try to get closer but it's vanished into the darkness. We see numerous animals from a distance and I'm told there is a hippo but all I can see is a large dark shadow. It starts to rain again heavily and we abort the game drive as it's impossible to see much and it's quite cold. 

 

At Eagles Nest the weather is now horrendous. It's raining hard, the lodge is high above the park and exposed and the wind is howling. The evening meal was fine, but I think I was just too tired and it was too late really to be having a big meal. Breakfast ordered and I was shown to my tent for the night, Thankfully It was the closest tent, and they had a handy stash of umbrella's. There is an a loud rumble and the sky lights up. The tent was nice and I'm ready for my bed and fall asleep listening to the tent flapping and the crashing of thunder close by,.... 

 

 

Edited November 5, 2022 by ShirleyD

[Biko]

Nice thunder picture.

[AndrewB]

What a lovely expedition, Shirley.

I was in Uganda in 2018 and stayed at Broadbill. Low key but lovely and a great bird walk into the forest with the owner, Emmy Gongo. We were in the crumblies group for the trek but our family moved. Came back down to reception at 4pm, but the guides and porters got us all there and back safely! An experience I will treasure for ever.

If anyone reads this and is thinking of a trip to Uganda it is a lovely place. We drove ourselves from Entebbe via Lake Mburo (Rwakobo Rock) to Bwindi and it is an easy country to navigate. Even got let off for speading by a rather charming Police Officer.

I want to return and see more of the country and your story has inspired me.

Thank you.

[ShirleyD]

 

Day 10 - 7th September 

My final day - sorry for the delay bit of a PC issue (now resolved)

 

Up at 6,  as we need to be at the gate at 7 for my walk. It's still dark when I get up but thankfully it's not raining as obviously there would be no walk if it was still raining and despite the horrendous weather overnight I slept well in my little bed. It was a quick cup of tea and a couple of biscuits before we set off. 

The walk was not part of my package and I was to pay the fee myself. It was $15, and was to be paid via card as the parks are now cashless. A nice touch as I was offered to pay in either $ or £ which was much better fo me to pay in my own currency. At the gate there were plenty of Vervet monkeys rummaging in the bin. 

 

There were to be 3 of us on the walk and the guide hopped into my vehicle as we set off into the park, followed by the other vehicle. It looked very different in daylight. By the roadside the animals are making full use of the overnight rain and there are plenty of waterbucks, Topi's and for the 1st time  of the trip impalas and Zebras. Unlike other african countries there are only a few places in Uganda where impala is found and the common zebra is only found in two places. 

 

   

 

Lake Mburo is also home to the Rothschild Giraffes, successfully relocated from Murchison back in 2015 and they seem to be thriving and we pass close by to group. We pull over and are told to take our belongings including our waterproofs (just in case). We set of across the bush as our guide spots a lone hippo in the  distance, We move cautiously as I'm sure everyone knows how dangerous hippos can be (aside from the other members of my group who seemed genuinely surprised that these creatures are one of the most dangerous african animals). We get as close as he thinks is wise to take photo's. 

 

 

 

Behind us a is a large group of impalas, grazing and using the salt slick. There are plenty of Topi's around too but move quickly away when we walk cautiously towards them. We also see a large group of Zebras and I hope we can get close as I'd spotted a foal but another walking group had arrived and the zebras  were spooked and they galloped past us and my goodness they moved fast. We move away from the other group and spot hyena pug marks in the wet ground. It's quite sizeable. Another lone hippo is wallowing in a large pond, we give him a wide berth. He's full of scars and sadly he's been chased out of his group and is destined to spend the rest of his life alone There are a few birds around, but only at a distance. We walk back towards the road and join a group of giraffes again and that is the end of our walking tour. I have been on walking tours before where we followed a track, here we just walked but kept with sight of the vehicles, not sure if this was due to the weather or if this is the norm. But it was good to get quite close especially to the giraffes, seeing a youngster feeding from mum. We head back to the gate and for the 1st time I see a bush buck. Probably not the most excited african animal but one that I hadn't seen yet.

 

 

Back at the lodge we have breakfast, which was very tasty and I was certainly ready for it after walking for 2 hours. After breakfast I quickly gather my things and we have to set of back to Entebbe. 

 

Lodge summary - I spent very little time here, which was a shame. The tents are comfortable and have a good size bathroom attached. My tent had twin beds not sure if they do double bedded tents. The food was good and as always the staff were excellent and worked long hours. Just wished I'd had another day there to fully appreciate the lodge and park. The views from the lodge on a good day must be amazing,The road to the lodge is a bit rough and the final ascent up is quite steep and I was glad of the the jeep last night going up in the rain. 

 

We bump along the rough road which hasn't improved after the rains last night, By the side of the road is a small pond and I ask Vianney to stop as a crane has caught something, The wooly necked stork was dunking his frog in the water

 

 

Our next stop was to be lunch at the equator. The day was overcast but no rain and we past many villages and local crafts. fruit and vegetables fill stalls along the way. Fairly uneventful aside being pulled over by the police, I don't think we're going overly fast but Vianney went to plead our case. It takes just over 3 hours to get there and it's very different to anywhere else I've been to during this trip. Lots of souvenir shops and restaurants and lots of vehicles full of tourists. We have lunch at Flamingoz joint, a massive portion of local food. Very tasty but way too much for me. It takes about 2 hours to drive back to Entebbe airport and as we pass by Kampala I catch a sight of the elusive crested crane...

 

It's time to say goodbye to Vianney and Uganda as I enter the airport for my flight back home. 

Edited November 13, 2022 by ShirleyD

[ShirleyD]

Trip summary

 

I had the best time, Uganda is the most amazing and possibly seriously underrated country I've ever visited. The people I met along the way were kind and super friendly and nothing was too much bother. The scenery was phenomenal, so varied. It's got it all, lakes, mountains, savannahs, home of the source of the white nile and not forgetting the world's most powerful waterfall.  The wildlife was amazing and certainly the best safaring I've done. It was quite physical in places but the rewards far outweigh any discomfort. 

 

The lodges (for the price) were excellent. Good staff and food. Though I would have liked to have eaten more traditional food. 

 

In hindsight, I wish I'd spent more time in each place. I knew it was a full itinerary and that appealed to me as I like to keep busy and not so great at relaxing but all the lodges had amazing gardens/ grounds full of wildlife that kept me amused for hours so an extra night would have been good.  I would love to go back to Kibale and spend more time at the Isunga lodge and the surrounding area as it was full of birds, and to do the Kibale nocturnal walk as I'd love to see bushbabies (and not just their eyes glinting). I'd definitely re-visit Lake Mburo as I saw so little of the park in what was a very short visit and only saw the lake itself in the distance from the resort and we would be nice to do the boat trip. I would love to visit Kipeodo National Park as it seems that it is the most diverse park in Uganda. So another trip is a must for me but not so close to the rainy season as when it rains it rains hard! 

 

I wouldn't hesitate to use Home To africa tours again as they were great, fast responses to emails and questions. My guide was excellent and I couldn't have wished for a nicer travel companion. 

 

Thank you for reading and for all the lovely comments and if you are thinking of visiting Uganda....GO!!!!

[ShirleyD]

@AndrewByes you should definitely go back if you can. It's such a beautiful place and yes Broadbill was lowkey but quite charming and it would have been lovely to go for a bird/nature walk around the area. Wow quite a long trek to see your gorilla family. Not sure my group would have made that. Thank you for your kind comments as I've never done a trip report before 

[NancyS]

Thank you  for doing this trip report. I really enjoyed following along on our journey. I was especially interested because I am heading for Uganda in January. So now I really can't wait to go.

[Biko]

Thanks @ShirleyDI have very much enjoyed your detailed trip report. I hope you will be able to go back and spend more time in the places that you mention in your trip summary. 

[Galago]

Fascinating to read this TR, thank you for posting. I've not been to Uganda but, back in 2005 I visited Rwanda and, like you I scrambled up muddy slopes to see the gorillas. It was amazing to see them, a unique experience. Like you, I would never have done it without a porter. Infact, I ended up struggling so hard with the last part of the trek (at 8,000ft) that the porter was pulling me and my guide was pushing me! So when you said that people didn't tip the porters I was horrified. These guys are brilliant, plus helpful and kind. I would never have made it without him. 

 

By the way, I love the pic of the monkey laughing, it's hilarious!

[ShirleyD]

@NancySthank you for following my trio and I sure you will have the most amazing time. It is a fabulous country. 

 

@Galagothank you very much. The porters and guides are fanastic and 8m sure many of us wouldn't have managed without them. Tge golden monkeys were great. I did think after the gorillas it would be a bit if a anti climax but they were wonderful 

 

@Bikothank you. I'm sure I will return as it was such a wonderful country.