India Nov (2020 - postponed) (2021 - postponed again) 2022: First time (for Alex), mostly birding (for all)

[xelas]

It was now time for the breakfast break and Savio took us ... well I don't know where exactly but it was not the settlement next to the wetlands. Then we went to the actual lake /  migratory bird sanctuary with an observation tower. A short path leading to it offered us a few birds and a lizard.

 

 

Oriental Garden Lizard - Calotes versicolor

 

Oriental Magpie-Robin female

 

Orange-headed Thrush

 

Gray-breasted Prinia

 

 

When we arrived at the tower, I left the rest and walked along the path to have a different angle of the birds in the grass. 

 

 

Northern Shoveler

 

Lesser Whistling-Duck

 

 

Gray-headed Swamphen

 

Bronze-winged Jacana

 

Black Drongo

 

Oriental Darter

 

Indian Pond-Heron

 

Brahminy Kite (it was chasing the Whistle-Ducks)

 

That concluded our morning birding. We went back to the lodge to be picked in the afternoon for yet another birding session.

 

[Soukous]

52 minutes ago, xelas said:

We went back to the lodge to be picked in the afternoon for yet another birding session.

 

That's what happens when you go on a birding itinerary 

[xelas]

We've been told our afternoon birding destination is the beach! wow, finally, we will see the famous Goa beach. My initial enthusiasm was quenched as soon as we have reached the "beach". In fact, the proper name of this section of the coast is Agacaim Tidal Mudflats. It lies at the estuary of the Zuari River (the river that was our last birding location but more about it in the next post).

 

There is a sandy beach but strong tidal movements and shallow water make it more like a playground than a beach. Same tidal movements also brings quite a lot of waste that the river brings to the ocean. In one word, if not for birding or for engaging in a most beloved sport (for Indians) it is not a place to go.

 

For birding it definitively holds its share of a shoreline birds. For bird photographers, afternoon is not a well thought time to go there; the sun is setting directly behind the birds. The water and the wet sand reflecting the light on the mostly white birds is a challenge for any photographer. On the brighter side, there are other scenes and sights to put on a memory card.

 

 

 

A Greater and a Lesser crested Tern flying with Brown-headed Gulls

 

Brown-headed Gulls were in abundance

 

 

Indians adores cricket and impromptu matches can be seen everywhere

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shoreline birds are not too fazed by the players; they do tend to keep themselves at a healthy distance thus below photos are heavily cropped.

 

Gull-billed Terns

 

Whimbrel with two Eurasian Curlews

 

Little Ringed Plover

 

Terek Sandpiper ... The Catch Of The Day !

 

 

The "better" side of the beach (in the afternoon) also has a few birds; Savio was very interested in the Sea-Eagle nest.

 

White-Bellied Sea-Eagle

 

Rufous Treepie

 

 

Indian Peafowl

 

It was a nice relaxing walk on the beach, with some new birds and some new sights. And also with our first proper sunset of the trip.

 

Great Egret

 

 

 

[Soukous]

Well done. You made a very unattractive beach look quite nice

[xelas]

2 minutes ago, Soukous said:

You made a very unattractive beach look quite nice

 

Kudos to Zvezda! She has a very forgiving eye .

[Soukous]

8 minutes ago, xelas said:

 

Kudos to Zvezda! She has a very forgiving eye .

and a zoom lens !

[Zim Girl]

Lots of fantastic bird in flight pictures here, and I love that last beach shot!

[Galana]

Well done all of you for making the best of what looked like a bad job.

 

Re Lasers. UK users/owners may have problems getting them now. Their sale and possession is gettng very restricted due to the numerous incidents of idiots shining them at aircraft approaching to land at  nearby airports.

[Kitsafari]

urgh the amount of trash on the beach is so depressing but your last sunset shot made me forget that.  

[xelas]

Our last birding day (finally ) arrived. I have to admit that all day birding is not something I am accustomed to. Too many early wake-ups, no time for breakfast in the lodge, not even a cup of hot coffee or chai. On the bright side, we have seen and photographed many birds which I would never either find by myself nor knew where to look for them.

 

For our last day together Savio took us again to a boat birding. This time we have explored the Zuari river. The boat was more comfortable than the one we used on our first birding day, and it has a roof. However as much as the roof is useful to keep the sun at bay, it also prevents taking good BIF photos.

 

Our first wildlife encounter was not with a bird. Unfortunately this river dweller showed no intention to pose for a nice portrait .

 

 

 

Smooth-coated Otter

 

 

Once we have crossed the river to the other side, birdlife was plentiful.

 

Wire-tailed Swallow

 

Indian Peafowl female

 

Striated Heron

 

Indian Green Bee-eater

 

 

Both banks of the Zuari river are covered with mangroves, and mangroves are excellent habitat for kingfishers.

 

 

White-fronted Kingfisher

 

Stork-billed Kingfisher

 

Black-capped Kingfisher

 

 

The river itself is a hunting ground for many birds, some smaller and others much bigger.

 

White-bellied Sea-Eagle

 

 

 

 

 

 

[xelas]

The captain took us off the main river and into a smaller channels. For a good reason as we were looking to find our target bird of the day. Before that, we have seen also other wildlife living along the muddy shores.

 

 

Blue-spotted Mudskipper (?)

 

Yellow Fiddler Crab (?)

 

Mugger Crocodile

 

 

 

As we have been quite lucky with birds finally our target bird showed to us.

 

Collared Kingfisher

 

At the very end ot the boat ride another addition to the collection.

 

Western Reef-Heron

 

 

Not to be let out as a photographer I have captured a few snapshots of the daily life on the river.

 

 

 

 

 

Old and new is what India is today. 

 

[xelas]

Since this was our last day of birding with Savio he worked hard to get us new birds. First two were taken at an industrial estate.

 

 

Malabar Lark

 

Oriental Skylark

 

 

Our last birding location was not far, as we wanted to be back to the lodge early enough to pack our luggage and to prepare for the midnight flight to Nagpur. So we have visited Maina-Raia Wetland. After 5 1/2 days of full-time birding we have seen almost every bird already yet there were still a couple of surprises for us!

 

 

Baya Weaver

 

Paddyfield Pipit

 

Long-tailed Shrike

 

Red-wattled Lapwing

 

Barn Swallow

 

 

There was also time to do some street photography and to get some scenes from the daily life.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Last drive toward our lodge in Candolim. The second shot is all about the white clouds. While we have had dry and sunny days, we have seen white clouds only on our last day.

 

 

 

 

Back at the Wildflowers Villas we had time for a late lunch. Next stop Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve in Maharashtra! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[janzin]

Excellent selection of birds and scenes. So have you been converted to a birder now?

 

I look forward to the next installments from Tadoba!

 

[Galana]

A very good introduction to Indian birding from around the Ghats and it looks like you are not done yet. More please.

[TonyQ]

That looks like a very productive boat trip.

Some beautiful photos 

[Soukous]

18 hours ago, janzin said:

Excellent selection of birds and scenes. So have you been converted to a birder now?

 

I can't speak for @xelasbut I don't think I'll ever be a real birder, Just seeing them is not enough, I need a photo 

[Galana]

1 hour ago, Soukous said:

I don't think I'll ever be a real birder,

'Birder' is a word that defies a real definition and has got corrupted over the years. An interest in birds can take many forms, from the pure 'birdwatcher' and naturalist who enjoys studying form and habit through to 'twitcher' who has an overweaning wish to see and record seeing as many species as is possible either on his local patch or country wide and then pays scant regard to any second coming. They also seem to speak a language of their own which includes 'dipped', 'suppressor', 'jizz' and 'nailed'.

You get the 'ticklist' fanatic on some trips. Hell bent tormented souls just boosting a trip checklist and any glimpse or even 'HC' (heard calling) will send them away to the next one with a happy smile. (That's after scowling at you for getting in their way and/or delaying the bus if you are in their group.)

Then we have keen photographers who are content to seek out any bird as long as it can make the pin sharp perfect photograph. They have been known to shun 'rare' birds if they are perched on man made objects or, perish the thought, have been ringed by researchers.

BY has evolved an even stranger breed. ANY bird will do as long as it counts and they are not talking about a wise old Owl that can do maths.

We all evolve with time.

I knew one bloke who had a fetish about Bulbuls but seems to have grown out of it.

 

 

[Soukous]

1 hour ago, Galana said:

I knew one bloke who had a fetish about Bulbuls but seems to have grown out of it.

 

I don't think so. The enthusiasm is still there

[Soukous]

On 12/19/2022 at 10:23 AM, Soukous said:

 

Q - when is a croissant not a croissant?

 

A - when it comes in a plastic packet and is filled with jalapeno cheese flavoured goo

 

only in India 

 

Just in case anyone is travelling to India and wants to know how wonderful this delicacy tastes, this is what you need to look out for

 

tempted @janzin??

[xelas]

Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve in Maharashtra was our second location. To reach it we had to fly from Goa to Nagpur. That flight has an awkward time of departure, around midnight. We have arrived at Goa airport 3 hrs before just to learn that the flight was postponed for another hour. Indian airports are the least pleasant places to spent time in India. Major airports are crowded and smaller ones are utmost uncomfortable. No public wifi and waiting for 3-4 hours for each connecting internal flight was a sharp PITA for me. When planning our next trip to India, I will try to eliminate any of the internal flights. It was around 3am when we have arrived in Nagpur. Our transfer was waiting for us, and most of the 2 1/2 hr drive to Tadoba I was sleeping. At 6am we have got our rooms at Svasara Jungle Lodge -  - for another 3 hrs of "beauty sleep".

 

 

Svasara Lodge is a smaller lodge with excellent location next to the Kolara Gate. Why that is important? Because in November, morning and evening temperatures are quite cold and driving for longer time in an open game vehicle can be unpleasant experience. 

 

The lodge itself has 3 public buildings: the main area with bar, breakfast&lunch area and wifi. There is where we have started and ended each of our game drives. Next there was a Tea House where we have had our dinners (sorry no photo of this one). 

 

 

 

 

 

There were four (?) buildings each with 3 rooms. Ours were #109 and #110. There was another room in between which was not occupied. Our bed was very comfortable and spacious. A small porch outside has a table and two chairs. In the room there was A/C and TV, none of which we switched on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

At the end of the short path there was a pool and a massage centre. While the pool and the water looked very inviting, the actual temperature of the water prevented me to use the pool. On our last day there Zvezda opted for a massage and she was very happy with the quality of it.

 

 

 

 

 

Food (lunch and dinner as breakfast we have only once) was very good again. All typical Indian food & serving. There was always a non-vegeterian option, served on a separate table.

 

 

 

 

 

One evening we had a "bush dinner" with candles. Interesting but I prefer to see what I am eating. 

 

 

 

Near the Tea House was a big water purification station where one can fill up the glass bottles provided by the lodge.  All the staff was very friendly, and the management did their best to help us when help was needed.

 

The property itself is not that big but there are trees and bushes and Martin and I were able to find a couple of interesting birds in it. Some one the ground and some in the trees.

 

Sulphur-bellied Warbler

 

Spot-breasted Fantail

 

Syke's Warbler

 

Oriental White-eye

 

Five-stripped Pal Squirrel

 

 

With all said, I am recommending this lodge to any future visitor to Tadoba Anghari Tibger Reserve.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 23, 2022 by xelas

[michael-ibk]

On 12/21/2022 at 12:30 PM, xelas said:

I have to admit that all day birding is not something I am accustomed to.

 

What are you talking about? You must be suppressing memories because of the horror of birding with me in Costa Rica, Portugal and Austria. And here I thought I had trained you well!

 

Excellent photos, really enjoying your storytelling as well. Looking foward to stripey stuff now! We quite liked Svasara when we were there. Had zero recollection there was a pool (is it new?) but I do remember that insanely dark "candle light dinner".

Edited December 22, 2022 by michael-ibk

[xelas]

1 hour ago, michael-ibk said:

And here I thought I had trained you well!

 

Yes, you did. But you have also spoiled me with regular supply of cold beer and Kardinalschnitte with ice cream . Plus you are not as demanding like Professor S. .

Edited December 22, 2022 by xelas

[pedro maia]

Great TR so far, I see Goa was all about birding, for us it’s a place of great cultural interest, and your guide’s name is clearly of Portuguese origin.

 

Lots of nice bird species, now I’m looking forward to see those tigers!!

 

 

[Galana]

More interesting details of both travel and lodgings. Planes or trains? for transfers in the middle of the night consider the train. I have covered long journeys in India between Reserves by rail. They are/were fast and comfortable with the added bonus of a good nights sleep without a hotel bill and arriving at your next location refreshed and ready to seek the wildlife.

[Atravelynn]

Fortunately nothing drab about the plum-headed parakeet.  The butterflies are rivaling the birds.

A little comic relief with the medical ailments and sunbird selfie.

The cat has a wilder feel to it than just a domestic feline.

The various fruits in the trees add a lot to your shots of birds.

Great bird photos even if not all participants are serious birders.  The beach shots are lovely too.  Got a little cricket in there too.

Tasty looking meals. Now I am hungry.

Edited December 23, 2022 by Atravelynn