India Nov (2020 - postponed) (2021 - postponed again) 2022: First time (for Alex), mostly birding (for all)

[xelas]

7 hours ago, Galana said:

Planes or trains?

After our only midnight train ride in Malaysia, Zvezda would never go fo another one . On the road we have seen a large "intercontinental" sleeper bus. 

 

8 hours ago, pedro maia said:

for us it’s a place of great cultural interest

We have seen a couple of places like the Cathedral from the outside.

 

2 hours ago, Atravelynn said:

The butterflies are rivaling the birds.

Oh yes! There should be more photos of them but they are really difficult to get.

[Soukous]

13 hours ago, xelas said:

With all said, I am recommending this lodge to any future visitor to Tadoba Anghari Tibger Reserve

 

Even though there were no Kingfishers ?????

[Soukous]

12 hours ago, michael-ibk said:

And here I thought I had trained you well!

 

Don't worry, you did. He is relentless.

[xelas]

@pedro maiapost has reminded me about the past of the Goa, and how different it is to other Indian states. Here are just a few snapshots of its cultural heritage. More info can be found on the internet.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 23, 2022 by xelas

[Soukous]

Now that @xelashas told you where we are staying, and before he gets stuck into our game drives, I'll tell you a bit about our transport and India's National Park rule.

 

In my BY thread I made a reference to ‘the curse of the second vehicle’ and Fred (@Galana) asked what meant. This should explain it.
It is a phenomenon that is not exclusive to India but the small size of the Maruti Gypsy and the way Indian's behave in National Parks (apologies to @madaboutcheetahwho I am sure does not fit this stereotype) means it has more effect on game drives.

 

For those that are not familiar with them, a Maruti Gypsy is an Indian made version of a Suzuki jeep and they are used in most national parks in India. They are cheap and easy to maintain – and not very comfortable.

There are 2 seats in front and then 2 bench seats behind which can uncomfortably accommodate 2 per seat; although you will see instances where as many as 12 people are crammed into 1 jeep.

 

In addition to the guests, each vehicle has a driver and a mandatory ‘forest guide’ – an employee of the Forest Department who MUST accompany each vehicle. In theory they could be a big asset with their intimate knowledge of the park and its flora and fauna but sadly in most cases it is just someone who takes up a seat and contributes about as much to the experience as a sack of potatoes. There are exceptions but they are rare. The third member of the team is a guide/naturalist, usually provided by the lodge.

 

Our party was supposed to be 4 people and so, because we would all have cameras and Maruti Gypsys are small vehicles it had been arranged that we would have 2 vehicles, each with 5 people. We could have squeezed all 7 into 1 jeep but that would have left little room to swing a camera with long lens.

 

As has already been written, due to events, there were only 3 of us travelling not 4 as planned.

As soon as I knew this I made contact with my colleague in India and suggested that we would not need 2 vehicles.

It was explained to me that we would almost certainly have to use 2 vehicles; the system is inflexible.
When a booking is made, names are allocated to a specific vehicle – each vehicle has an ID which even specifies which gate it can use to enter and leave the park - and this guest + vehicle combination goes onto the park permit. Once issued, the permit cannot be altered.

In theory, the only way for us to change this would have been to forfeit our existing permits and apply for a new one; running the risk that there might be none available.

 

So we were 3 people in 2 jeeps; Alex & Zvezda in one with guide, driver and sack of potatoes, me in the other with my own guide, driver & sack of potatoes.

 

We discussed the situation amongst ourselves and broadly agreed how we wanted to proceed. But, as they say, a plan is only good until it is put into action.
One of the things we all agreed on straight away was that we would not be a part of the circus that surrounds tiger sightings. Although it took a while for our drivers and guides (with 1 exception) to understand that we were not going to chase across the park for a glimpse of a tiger.

 

In Indian parks the vast majority of visitors are Indian, with foreigners making up maybe 5%, and of those Indian visitors 99.9% are only interested in seeing 1 thing, tigers.

This means that whenever a tiger is sighted, or there is a chance of one being sighted, every vehicle goes to that place. In many instances people will drive straight from the gate to a place where a tiger was sighted the day before or on the morning drive and they will just sit there for their entire game drive hoping it shows itself.

Pray you don't get caught up in scenes like this or need to get past as the road is almost invariably blocked.

 

 

They don’t sit quietly either.

If word gets out that a tiger has been sighted during a game drive every vehicle heads in that direction, as fast as they can drive. The dust is terrible.

 

 

It is amazing how strict the regulations are about the issuing of permits and the inflexibility of permits, but once inside the park there seems to be no control at all on behaviour.

 

Even in November, so soon after what had been a heavy monsoon, the dust was a big problem. Clouds of brick coloured talcum powder swirled in the wake of every vehicle.

This meant that sensible people left a distance between them and the vehicle in front to avoid breathing dust instead of air.

 

Understandably, we chose to stay well away from the 'circus', but even with just 2 vehicles the dust remained a problem, both for us and for our cameras. So, once it became evident that our 2 jeeps would not be able to travel close together I let Alex & Zvezda go first. There were 2 of them, it was their first time in India, they had by far the better guide and they had demonstrated that they were spotting far more birds than my guide & I.

 

This ‘sensible’ distance was often more than 100 metres and meant that the first jeep would see something and by the time the second jeep arrived it had gone. Or, the first jeep would stop in the perfect position for photographs and the second would have great views of the jeep in front, but often no view at all of what they were looking at.
The back of Alex’s head became a very familiar sight

 

although the scenery did vary

 

 

 

 

Edited December 23, 2022 by Soukous

[Galana]

A most illuminating report. That Croissant looks delicious and worth the effort of an Indian Visa just to try one.

Some excellent photographs of the non avian kind too.

I am also grateful for Martin @Soukous's full explanation of the excitement of the Indian Tiger Parks.

It graphically illustrates why each time I return from India I resolve never to return.

I have two lasting memories. One from my trip to Nagarhole where I wrote "The guests had no concept of 'quiet' and kept up a continual chatter. The driver only stopped for red or blue birds. (Peacock, Roller, Kingfisher  or Woodpecker.) Anything else was brushed aside in his headlong dash for Baagh . OK. The Elephants were fun as they do NOT like people (sympathy vote from us here!)"

But you can avoid them as we discovered in Kaziranga, when, as we were parked up waiting for a Rhino and calf to emerge from hiding, our guide spotted a dust cloud of Gypsies (good collective noun)  heading our way. Quick as a flash he said 'look over there at the Egret with your binoculars' at which the dust cloud saw we were JUST foreign birders and roared on by. Following which we had the Rhino and Calf to ourselves in peace. Our guide actually apologised for his own people's behaviour on several occasions.

I am so glad I resisted Martin's offer as it was tempting.

[Soukous]

1 hour ago, Galana said:

It graphically illustrates why each time I return from India I resolve never to return.

 

But the positives outweigh the negatives and you will surely return

[Galana]

1 hour ago, Soukous said:

But the positives outweigh the negatives and you will surely return

If you say so. The return of the eVisa has tilted the scales slightly and I would love to go back to Ladakh and also follow in "Chaks" footsteps into the Northeast states but I think I am done with most of the Peninsular.

[xelas]

6 minutes ago, Galana said:

also follow in "Chaks" footsteps into the Northeast states

Count me in !

[Atravelynn]

10 hours ago, Atravelynn said:

I now understand the curse of the 2 vehicles.  Perhaps you could make a collage of "back of the head" shots in different environments.

 

 

 

Edited December 23, 2022 by Atravelynn

[xelas]

Before continuing I want to inform all readers that I have added a couple of photos (birds) in the post about the lodge, to wrap it up.

[TonyQ]

Nice additions they are too!

[xelas]

Zvezda and I had 7 full days in Svasara Jungle Lodge, and Martin has pre-booked 10 game drives. The morning game drive started at 06:30 and the afternoon at 14:00. They both are about 4 hours long.

 

Vehicles came to pick us up at the lodge and for each game drive there was a different driver and at the gate we were allocated a different ranger, while the lodge guide/naturalist was always the same. Ours was Jeswin (the guy in the middle, with glasses) and I will tell you more about him at the end of the report.

 

 

 

The logistics were the same: we came to the main area about 30 minutes before departure, got a hot chai or coffee, and our "personal" guide took us to the vehicle of the day. With only 300 meters to the gate, early morning and late afternoon drives were quick. At the entry gates (Kolara Gate) driver showed the paperwork and Zvezda showed our passports. Then we got a ranger and we were allowed to enter the reserve.

 

 

Martin will tell you how much each game drive costed. I don't think that the prices on the table at the entry gate are (still) valid. One interesting thing at this gate are the small "houses" with tiger sculptures inside.

 

 

Edited December 24, 2022 by xelas

[xelas]

The reserve has two zones. The buffer zone is on the outer perimeter where local farmers are allowed to still work on their fields and cattle can graze. If there is an incident (with tiger) in this zone, the government will pay for the cattle lost and for injuries or death of a farmer. There is no fence between the two zones, and neither is there a fence around the buffer zone. Villagers tend not to walk the main roads after the sunset as it is not that rare that a tiger does a bit of a sightseeing tour to the outside world.

 

 

 

 

Edited December 24, 2022 by xelas

[xelas]

The core zone is very nice and has different landscapes. Most of it is wooded but not too dense. There are two (?) lakes and several manmade watering holes. On the outskirts of the core zone there are also grassy plains.

 

Driving in a Gypsy is not a comfortable affair. Bumpy roads forces you to work your legs and hands all the time, plus other muscles of the whole body. When the driver "smells the tiger" the whole thing turns into a rodeo-like affair.

 

A very important pieces of equipment are: a linen bag or similar to cover the camera and a bandana to cover the mouth. We have bought ours at the gate at first entry and used them daily. Fine red dust covered us from head to toe and on return to the base (lodge) we were given dust brushes for the clothing and cool towels for our faces and hands.

 

Inside the core area one can drive on empty tracks or can follow the crowds.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 24, 2022 by xelas

[xelas]

While tigers are the main reason for visiting this, and many other parks in India, for vast majority of visitors, there are also other mammals, and specially many birds for whoever is more inclined to enjoy the nature as it is instead of chasing the tigers. Some wildlife has been spotted on every game drive while others only once ... or never. Smaller birds mostly in bushes and larger ones, including birds of prey, up in the treetops.

 

White-browed Fantail

 

Crested Serpent-Eagle

 

Indian Gray Mongoose

 

Hanuman / Northern Plains Langur

 

 

 

Blue Bull / Nilgai female

[Soukous]

On 12/23/2022 at 1:57 PM, Galana said:

follow in "Chaks" footsteps into the Northeast states

 

OK, I've now read the TR and I think that could be an amazing trip. 

[xelas]

Early mornings were fresh, even cold on some days, but always with a beautiful golden light. Once we have decided to start our drives a few minutes after the main rush also the dust settled down, for better photography.

 

 

 

Gray-headed Fish-Eagle

 

Lesser Adjutant

 

 

As said, young Jeswin was our guide for all the game drives through Kolara gate. On our first meeting I have explained to him that we only have one rule, but we are quite strict about it: we do not want to chase the nature! His look was a bit perplexed so I have to explaine to him in more details: no tiger chasing, no speeding on the dirt roads, stop for every bird visible but only for those in good light. For a good measure I also added my medical condition: a serious case of crowdophobia. After an initial bewilderment by my requests he smiled and after a few days together, we realised that our way of experiencing the nature is very similar to his way. Only that his job and his clients are requesting a different approach.

 

So off we went on our first morning safari and Jeswin asked me if I am 100% "no tiger sighting" ?! Not but if there will be one I prefer to have it for ourselves. What followed was, according to his own words, once in a 100 games situation: young lady ranger (yes, there were almost as many women rangers as there were men, and ladies, all were young and if I might say, lovely!) guided us to a manmade waterhole. Lo and behold, what we have seen is posted below (OK, there are about 100 other photos ). 

 

On the other side of the pond was a tiger! Resting tigress named Choti Tara, as we learned later. Our camera timestamp shows that we have arrived at 07:40 and she left at 07:55 - 15 minutes we were the only vehicle at the scene! To be honest, it has not been all that special to me, the fact that we were alone with a tiger. But both the excitement of all three locals, and what we have seen at tiger sightings in next days, makes me appreciate those moments much more.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 24, 2022 by xelas

[xelas]

The wooded parts of this reserve are very photogenic, and when we get out to more open lands, there were always something to look at. The Indian wildlife is not as divers or as numerous as we have seen in African parks but there is still enough variety to keep attention of any true nature lover. Among grazers, Spotted Deer (Chital) was seen on almost every game drive.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another recurring event was an obligatory stop for food & toilet at a fenced property near Tadoba Lake. About the same time all vehicles that were near this location turned in to give their clients opportunity to stretch their legs, to use the toilet facilities (relatively clean ... where relatively is measured by average Indian standards) and to eat their packed food.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Each day we have tried our best to find a new birds for BY but also to get a nice photo for our album.

 

Rufous Treepie

 

Indian Gray Hornbill

 

Alexandrine Parakeet

 

 

[Galana]

Whilst there are no doubt more sightnigs I can bet that this first one will stay in your memory bank for much longer. I doubt there will be any really 'better' ones to come. Nice Treepie too.

[xelas]

2 hours ago, Galana said:

I doubt there will be any really 'better' ones to come.

Stay tuned 😁!

[TonyQ]

Beautiful light on the Tiger

[Kitsafari]

I'm so so jealous of your Nilgai!!! but we did see a a bit of mammals there which made up for our frustrations of "tiger-waiting-wasting" hours. So i really liked your rules for your crowdophobia and we shall adopt that if we ever return to India. 

 

we also stayed at Svasara (we enjoyed the lodge and I have the memories of washing our red-stained shoes (after trying to get as much dust out outdoors) in the washroom). I think we also met a really talented naturalist at that lodge who tragically died of a cobra bite when he was on one of his many outings to help villagers to get rid of snakes in their homes.

 

How lucky you are to see the tiger in the open all alone! such rare moments being on your own. I see @Soukous in the front car for a change. 

 

Edited December 26, 2022 by Kitsafari

[Soukous]

9 hours ago, Kitsafari said:

I see @Soukous in the front car for a change. 

 

only on day 1 

[Soukous]

One of the reasons that the tiger sighting was so special was because I was not there to enjoy it.

About midway through our first afternoon drive, while we were in the buffer zone, my stomach sent me an urgent message that I could not ignore. Game drive aborted my vehicle rushed back to the lodge.

 

Next morning I was not brave enough to take the chance on a 4 hour Indian massage and dust bath so I stayed back while the others went for the morning drive. Of course I knew that they would see a tiger, Murphy's law dictated that it must be so.

I was very happy that they had got their exclusive sighting so soon as it took a lot of pressure off the next few days.