A return to the Pantanal Sept. '22: The best-laid plans oft go awry....

[janzin]

10 hours ago, mtanenbaum said:

Thanks so much for your gorgeous photos! I had the Pantanal on my bucket list, but after reading about the biting flies, I'm no longer certain! I am not scared of lions a few feet away from the jeep, but I am scared of bugs!!! especially ones that bite....

Don't let that discourage you! We had not experienced this on our first trip and I think we just got unlucky with a hatch-out! But I don't know for sure under what conditions/times of year they are most prevalent.

[janzin]

Okay I've managed to process one more day's worth of photos It's going to be one day at a time from here on in, I think.

 

The following morning we set out for our first day with Raquel...it was great to have someone to talk to in the boat (other than my spouse...you know how tired one gets of only having one's spouse/partner to talk to!  ) But in all seriousness it was great to now have the ability to get details on where we were going, etc.

 

One of the first sightings of the day were these Toco Toucans perched in the sunlight high above the river. I tried to get flight shots as they took off but wasn't quite prepared.

 

 

It wasn't too long before we came upon this jaguar coming down to the river. Unfortunately we didn't get an ID and because it never really gave us a full-facial view I cannot ID it (him?her?) from the book.

 

 

We followed it swimming for a bit but it wasn't long before it jumped back on the bank and entered the forest.

 

 

We were heading back to the channel with the cubs and mothers as that seemed to still be the most productive area. But before we got there, we ran into another group of Giant River Otters and this time they were swimming and fishing.

 

Got a fish!

 

 

Chowing down.

 

 

I hate it when the tail gets stuck in my throat!

 

 

Swimming away.

 

 

Upon reaching the aforementioned channel, we immediately saw one of the jaguar cubs but it was just resting in the shade.

 

 

We settled in to wait, accompanied by this Ringed Kingfisher.

 

 

Eventually the cub got up and joined his sibling. This isn't a great photo but I like seeing them both together. I'm pretty sure this is Kasimir and Krishna, who are both male.

 

 

 

And it wasn't too long before the male emerged and headed to his favorite "throne." I'm pretty sure this is Kasimir but the photo in the book is very dark. This is why I said I wasn't going to ID all the cats...it's very confusing!

 

 

King of the hill!

 

 

My 500mm was almost too long, except for close portraits.

 

Glad I sprung for that 100-400 zoom lens.

 

 

 

Tired already? It's still only 10 a.m.!

 

 

 

Just to give an idea of our position and distance. Can you find the cat?

 

 

 

A nice start to the day, and it wasn't even lunchtime yet!

 

Edited January 6, 2023 by janzin

[Atdahl]

Awesome shots Janet!

[Towlersonsafari]

again what splendid photos and a very interesting  report @janzin

[janzin]

After watchin Kasimir for awhile he got up and went into the forest. It was now into the hot part of the day (and the flies were biting!) so we decided to move out of the channel and head for the river and one of the "restroom spots." Some may wonder where one "goes behind a bush" in jaguar territory, well there are a few spots which seemed to be used regularly as they have easy access with good cover (unfortunately lots of folks don't seem to carry out their paper with them so sadly these spots are not so pristine.) But just like in Africa, the boatman or guide will check for cats (i.e., go first!) and then we'd follow.

 

Anyway one of these spots was at the head of the channel where the potoo was seen the prior day, so we returned there.  You really couldn't venture very far up this channel as soon it became choked with vegetation, but it was good for birds (and Raquel said occasionally one might find a jaguar there.) Well no jaguar, and the potoo was in his same spot, but we picked up a couple of birds.

 

The Amazon Kingfisher was there...probably the same one we saw the first day.

 

 

But a new bird was this Black-backed Water Tyrant.

 

 

And as we were leaving the channel, a Large-billed Tern flew overhead.

 

 

 

On the river we saw our first Capybara! Well, not our first as there were lots of Capybara on the hotel grounds, but we were always leaving to early or coming back too late to photograph them. And for some reason we saw many less along the riversides than we had on our previous trip.

 

 

We decided to go back to "the usual spot" in the cub's channel and eat our lunch.

 

When we arrived, Rio was just hanging out.

 

 

 

We parked nearby with a couple of other boats and ate our lunch while he relaxed above us.

 

 

As we were finishing up lunch we heard that another jaguar was entering the water at the other end of the channel (we spend a lot of time going back and forth in this one channel, which was more open than some of the others.)

 

So off we went...

 

 

 

Edited January 7, 2023 by janzin

[janzin]

Sure enough, down at the other end of the channel we found another jaguar in the water.

 

 

She got out...

 

 

Looking a bit bedraggled.  They always look so forlorn when they are wet!

 

 

And then we hear that Rio had come down from his tree and was rejoined by Marcela! So back we went in the other direction!

 

We found the two of them playing in the high grass, but it was difficult to photograph anything.

 

 

 

Two tails in the air!

 

 

And now in the other direction...another cat came out of the woods. This may be the mom Patricia, I am not sure. She was fairly distant but I like the habitat shot.

 

 

 

Eventually she parked herself in this tree, quite a distance away.

 

 

It was around 3 pm now and getting very hot, and the light harsh, so we decided to move once again into the main channel and do some birding.

 

 

[janzin]

Just puttering down the main river we came across the following nice birds.

 

 

 

 

And some more really cute Capybaras, this time a mom with a young one, swimming and then they stopped for their lunch.

 

 

Munch, munch...

 

 

So cute!

 

 

Down another short channel we found a new for the trip Kingfisher...this is the Green, looks very similar to the Amazon but smaller and with two green breastbands instead of just one.

 

 

The Black-capped Donocobius' were always present, and sometimes they posed nicely.

 

 

There were always these beautiful dragonflies surrounding the boat, the aptly named Flame-tailed Pondhawk.

 

 

And a nice pair of Rufous-tailed Jacamars, male and female.

 

 

Time to head back to the lodge, another great day on the water!

 

 

(Now there will be another few days hiatus while I work on photos from day-on-the-river three.) Still many more jaguars to come, I hope folks aren't tired of them yet!

 

 

[Soukous]

A couple of boring questions @janzin

I assume you are mostly using your Z9 for the bird shots you are posting, combined with the 500mm. 

Are you shooting full frame or crop frame?

Are you using a TC?

How much are you having to crop the image - say for the Green Kingfisher - to achieve the image you post?

[janzin]

5 hours ago, Soukous said:

A couple of boring questions @janzin

I assume you are mostly using your Z9 for the bird shots you are posting, combined with the 500mm. 

Are you shooting full frame or crop frame?

Are you using a TC?

How much are you having to crop the image - say for the Green Kingfisher - to achieve the image you post?

 

Yes, almost all of the bird photos are with the Z9 and the 500mm.  I did have the TC with me but as far as I remember I rarely put it on, I am not sure why...just sort of forgot to.

I always shoot full frame although recently I saw a Steve Perry video where he suggested shooting crop frame at times, so I may try that in future. Now there is a Z9 setting where you can change from full to crop with a single button push (again, I have to train myself to remember.)  But another reason to shoot full frame on the boat is that its never still...always bouncing even when you think its still...so full frame allows you to make sure you don't bounce the bird out of the frame.

 

That said, most of the shots are cropped quite a bit. Obviously we tried to keep enough distance from the birds so as not to spook them. For example here is the full image of the Green Kingfisher (just snipped from my desktop screen.)  The Z9 allows for a lot of cropping with 45.7 mp.

 

[Soukous]

Thanks Janet. It looks as though you can get pretty close.

[inyathi]

Fantastic photos as always, I was amused to read all the comments regarding the food at Pouso Alegre, I had to go back and read my 2016 Brazil report, this is part of what I said

 

The place was very busy, when we were there, not only could you find yourself in a long queue for the food, but if you were at the back of it, you might find that one of the main dishes had actually run out. Not having quite enough of all of the food, for all of your guests, is not too clever

 

I would thought that enough travel agents with unhappy clients,  would have complained and they would have sorted out the issue, evidently not, but this issue aside, it is still a great place, with very good wildlife, lest anyone is put off going there.

 

I think it's great to know the names of jaguars, if they have them, not long ago by chance, I recorded a documentary called Jaguarland that was on the Smithsonian Channel, (it has some good wildlife shows, but I seldom watch it because I never remember to check what's on), I was glad I recorded this documentary, because one of the Jaguars filmed was Patricia, knowing that I had seen her in 2016, made it that bit more interesting, than just watching a film about some random jaguars.     

 

[Atravelynn]

Gorgeous settings for the jaguars and the other species.  You really got a glimpse into the lives of those cats.  I found the jaguar in that camouflaged shot but I must admit it took me a while.

Edited January 11, 2023 by Atravelynn

[janzin]

14 hours ago, inyathi said:

Fantastic photos as always, I was amused to read all the comments regarding the food at Pouso Alegre, I had to go back and read my 2016 Brazil report, this is part of what I said

 

The place was very busy, when we were there, not only could you find yourself in a long queue for the food, but if you were at the back of it, you might find that one of the main dishes had actually run out. Not having quite enough of all of the food, for all of your guests, is not too clever  Interesting, I just didn't remember that from our last time which was 2015 but I suppose it may have been the same.  I should go back and look at my trip report as I did do one!

 

I would thought that enough travel agents with unhappy clients,  would have complained and they would have sorted out the issue, evidently not, but this issue aside, it is still a great place, with very good wildlife, lest anyone is put off going there. I'm not sure why but we felt the wildlife there wasn't as good as the last trip. Even generally speaking there seemed to be less birds, fewere coatis, we didn't see any agoutis or tegus like last time. But, you never know with wildlife. I just think there may be nicer lodges to stay at now, there are several alternatives.

 

I think it's great to know the names of jaguars, if they have them, not long ago by chance, I recorded a documentary called Jaguarland that was on the Smithsonian Channel, (it has some good wildlife shows, but I seldom watch it because I never remember to check what's on), I was glad I recorded this documentary, because one of the Jaguars filmed was Patricia, knowing that I had seen her in 2016, made it that bit more interesting, than just watching a film about some random jaguars.     Once we had Raquel with us I did get some names but I'm terrible at note taking and she didn't always know the names either with some of the ones we saw later, away from that channel. I admit that even with the book I get dizzy with trying to work out the spots. But I agree it is nice to follow the cats by name.

 

 

[TonyQ]

You did really well for Jaguars and brilliant photos.

I also really like the birds, the otters and the very cute Capybara.

 

(interestingly, if Julinho had been with you, it is unlikely he would have given names for the individual jaguars as certainly when we travelled with him he was very much against the idea of naming wild animals)

[TravelMore]

Enough was said about the 1st lodge. Deleted. Sorry

Edited January 12, 2023 by TravelMore
Deleted

[kittykat23uk]

21 hours ago, TonyQ said:

 

 

(interestingly, if Julinho had been with you, it is unlikely he would have given names for the individual jaguars as certainly when we travelled with him he was very much against the idea of naming wild animals)

Yeh I was thinking the same Tony. 

[jeremie]

On 12/27/2022 at 2:06 AM, janzin said:

For my husband and I, as with many others, 2022 was a catch-up year for traveling. We had several trips already postponed from 2020 and 2021--but would they actually happen? Since we were still unsure, sometime in the fall of 2021 we decided on a bit of a whim to book a short trip back to the Pantanal for fall '22, as by then Brazil was open without COVID restrictions. And we had enough miles on American Airlines to get us to Sao Paulo for "free." And I can never get enough Big Cats

 

It seemed like a fairly easy trip to plan (ha!!)

 

Initially the plan was to spend time in both the northern Pantanal and the southern section. We'd heard so many great things about Barranco Alto from folks on ST and we really wanted to go somewhere which would be new. On our prior trip to the Pantanal we'd used Pantanal Jaguar Safaris and were very happy with them and our guide Andre. We contacted them to plan this trip as well... but it was a bit more complicated than we thought. Surprisingly, there were already limited open dates for Barranco Alto for anytime September-October, and we couldn't match them up with open dates for Andre to guide us. So we also contacted Pantanal Trackers, and the famous Julinho, whom many STer's have traveled with. He was able to give us dates that worked with Barranco Alto's dates, and in addition was substantially less expensive than Pantanal Jaguar Safaris, so rather reluctantly (because we really felt a loyalty to PJS) we booked with Julinho. 

 

The original plan was 7 nights in the north Pantanal followed by four nights at Barranco Alto. With a night in between for the transfer. We paid our deposits and figured that we work out how to transfer between the two a bit later. That was our first mistake! Transferring between north and south Pantanal turned out to be far more complicated--and far more expensive--than we'd thought. It also made our international flights way more complicated as we'd have to fly into Cuiaba and out from Campo Grande and all the timings were just nuts, with likely overnights on both ends.

 

In the end, once we got around to actually scoping out the logistics, we decided it was just too expensive, with too much travel time, and a bit crazy for just four nights. So reluctantly we cancelled our dates at Barranco Alto--losing our deposit. (Luckily we had not yet booked the international air.) The final itinerary was two nights at Pouso Alegre and five nights at Hotel Pantanal Norte, with Juliho as our guide and boatman.

 

At least that was the plan....!

 

 

 

 

Hi Janet!!!!!!! So glad you did it! I just found your lovely TR, with some gorgeous pics!!!!!

[jeremie]

On 12/27/2022 at 5:25 PM, janzin said:

A BORING ASIDE UNLESS YOU ARE A PHOTOGRAPHER:

For photographers who are interested, I was using the Nikon Z9 (and at times the Nikon Z7ii) with either the 500PF or the 100-400Z lens. If you look at the EXIF data it is going to lie and say I was using the Nikon D850--this is because I need to edit the camera model in the EXIF so I can continue to use my older Nikon Studio programs with the new cameras. It's a long boring story but just wanted to clear that up.

I see that these new mirror less and light new technologies have extraordinary results!!!!!

[jeremie]

On 12/29/2022 at 4:14 PM, janzin said:

During the heat of the afternoon we just rested; it was really too hot for birding between noon and four or so. I did wander around a little on the grounds and

found just a couple of more birds to shoot but it was really too hot.

 

Even these doves were just resting in the shade.

 

 

(Note on the above, it was pointed out to me that I incorrectly labeled the above photo, they are of course Scaled Doves.)

 

 

And I found a deer browsing in the field.  Doesn't it seem like his horns are gold-plated?

 

 

When we went out at 4 to the anteater spot, Julinho seemed a bit better (the meds must have kicked in.) He told us that he'd arranged for his cousin (there's always a cousin!), who was an experienced boatman and had trained with him, to be our boatman/guide from Porto Jofre.  There was just one catch--he didn't speak a word of English. Oh boy. Well at least we'd have a boat and a boatman!

 

Of course we were sympathetic to Julinho's plight (and he was very anxious about the surgery) but our long-anticipated trip with the expert jaguar whisperer was not turning out as planned.

 

As before, the anteater stakeout turned out to be a bust--we were there about two hours (along with others from the lodge) and we saw nothing come to the waterhole except for a couple of Brocket deer and some monkeys (all in too low light for photography anyway.) On the way back I asked Julinho, tell me honestly, how often do you see anteaters there? And he said maybe once every couple of months!

 

After dinner (which again, Julinho did not eat...) he said he felt well enough to take us for a night drive along the entrance road. We went up the road and back but only saw some flying nightjars.

 

 

some few comments at this point about PA and tapirs…

 

1- the best place to spot giant anteaters is Mato Grosso do Sul, especially around Bonito, but also in Southern Pantanal.

2- FBA is great, but can be a failure deoending on the weather. If you go there during a gold, you might see plenty, perhaps dozens of them. If you go during hot days, you might see none. We didn’t see any in our second trip there, it was way too hot!

3- In Northern Pantanal, giant anteaters are present but in very low numbers close to the Cuiana river. They prefer higher lands that won’t get flooded during the rainy season. The Cerrado biome is the best.

4- I did see one in this waterhole, but it’s not the holy graal. I would suggest to visit Piuval to get higher chances. We did see them during our 2 stays there, but only once in our 2 stays at PA. The entrance part of Piuval is the best area. Inside the property is flooded areas, so you will not spot any.

5- PA is the best place on earth to spot tapirs but… if it is too hot they may stay in the shade. Best sightings are in very early mornings drives (4:30 am to 5:00 am to start is best, or dusk to night drives. If you are lucky you can see them during the days in the waterholes, when it’s too hot, and when there are many flies or mosquitoes. Tapirs must go in the water to avoid them.

6-PA is very good for marsh deers when it’s flooded. During the dry season they move to the Transpantaneira. It is also very good for brocket Deers when it is very dry and provided they cut /burn the grass and bushes along the main road of the property.

[jeremie]

On 12/30/2022 at 4:51 PM, janzin said:

The 2nd morning started out with a bang. We headed directly to a channel where there had been two mother jaguars, each with two cubs, apparently hanging out on and off for the last few days. (The cubs are not tiny cubs, about six or seven months old.)

 

We rounded the corner and practically before I could even get my camera up we came upon the hunting jaguar mother.  Unbelievably I was quick enough to get what is probably my best jaguar photo of the entire trip.

 

 

This is Medrosa, also known as Amber because of the color of her eyes.  Her cubs are Rio and Marcela, who we'd spend time with later. The other mom in this channel was Patricia, and her two cubs Krishna and Kasimir. We'll see them later too

 

Immediately after this she dragged her catch into the woods.  After a very short while she reappeared on the top of the bank. (Did she eat it that fast, or bring it to the cubs...not sure.)

 

 

 

I'm going to leave this post short as there is much more to come. 

This is the kind of rare and top shots all cat photographers wish to get back from the Pantanal!! Congrats!!!!! Really impressive !

[jeremie]

On 1/6/2023 at 8:08 PM, janzin said:

Okay I've managed to process one more day's worth of photos It's going to be one day at a time from here on in, I think.

 

The following morning we set out for our first day with Raquel...it was great to have someone to talk to in the boat (other than my spouse...you know how tired one gets of only having one's spouse/partner to talk to!  ) But in all seriousness it was great to now have the ability to get details on where we were going, etc.

 

One of the first sightings of the day were these Toco Toucans perched in the sunlight high above the river. I tried to get flight shots as they took off but wasn't quite prepared.

 

 

It wasn't too long before we came upon this jaguar coming down to the river. Unfortunately we didn't get an ID and because it never really gave us a full-facial view I cannot ID it (him?her?) from the book.

 

 

We followed it swimming for a bit but it wasn't long before it jumped back on the bank and entered the forest.

 

 

We were heading back to the channel with the cubs and mothers as that seemed to still be the most productive area. But before we got there, we ran into another group of Giant River Otters and this time they were swimming and fishing.

 

Got a fish!

 

 

Chowing down.

 

 

I hate it when the tail gets stuck in my throat!

 

 

Swimming away.

 

 

Upon reaching the aforementioned channel, we immediately saw one of the jaguar cubs but it was just resting in the shade.

 

 

We settled in to wait, accompanied by this Ringed Kingfisher.

 

 

Eventually the cub got up and joined his sibling. This isn't a great photo but I like seeing them both together. I'm pretty sure this is Kasimir and Krishna, who are both male.

 

 

 

And it wasn't too long before the male emerged and headed to his favorite "throne." I'm pretty sure this is Kasimir but the photo in the book is very dark. This is why I said I wasn't going to ID all the cats...it's very confusing!

 

 

King of the hill!

 

 

My 500mm was almost too long, except for close portraits.

 

Glad I sprung for that 100-400 zoom lens.

 

 

 

Tired already? It's still only 10 a.m.!

 

 

 

Just to give an idea of our position and distance. Can you find the cat?

 

 

 

A nice start to the day, and it wasn't even lunchtime yet!

 

well, Andre Moratelli told me many times that these 2021 and 2022 were crazy years for cats in Pantanal! According to your wonderful pictures I totally understand why was he insistently pushed and invited me to come back!!! Those 4 cubs are just amazing!

[janzin]

Hi @jeremieand thanks for all your great comments and information about the tapirs and anteaters. Glad you saw these as I was wondering if you were back from your round the world trip Andre and I talked about you and your crazy worldwide adventures over drinks one night.

 

Yes those cubs were certainly the highlight of the trip as they were pretty dependable to find, although on our last day they had disappeared! But I still have more to come, just bogged down a bit with other things but I hope to post the next installment in the next day or so.

 

[jeremie]

5 minutes ago, janzin said:

Hi @jeremieand thanks for all your great comments and information about the tapirs and anteaters. Glad you saw these as I was wondering if you were back from your round the world trip Andre and I talked about you and your crazy worldwide adventures over drinks one night.

 

Yes those cubs were certainly the highlight of the trip as they were pretty dependable to find, although on our last day they had disappeared! But I still have more to come, just bogged down a bit with other things but I hope to post the next installment in the next day or so.

 

 

We actually ended the worldtrip 3 days ago! Now it's time to go back to the real life again!

[janzin]

Another day, another morning with the cubs...rounding the bend we could see one of the male cubs was in his favorite spot.

 

Basically much this morning was spent just watching these boys in the same channel, so there's not much narration. It was a watch and wait situation...will they hunt? Will they disappear? Or will they just sleep the morning away. (Cats!!)

 

Good morning!

 

 

Entertaining himself playing with the grass, as cats will do.

 

 

 

His brother was just hanging out nearby.

 

 

After awhile there was movement.

 

 

Good morning!

 

 

Joined by his brother.

 

 

On the move. Will they go hunting?

 

 

Or just disappear into the forest?

 

 

Resting again.

 

 

On the move again!

 

 

Where will they go now?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[janzin]

Of course, while we watched and waited, there were opportunities to shoot a few birds.

 

I am including this terrible photo of a very good bird, a Ferruginous Pygmy Owl. It was so distant that we weren't even 100% sure it was an owl until I took the photo and enlarged it in my camera. 

 

 

A new bird for the trip was Unicolored Blackbird, posing nicely in the vegetation.

 

 

 

Cocoi Heron was certainly not new but because it looks so much like our own Great Blue Heron, I sort of neglected taking photos of it. But this one gave me an opportunity.

 

 

And Green Ibis was not all that common, but this one flew in and perched right in front of us.

 

 

And Black-capped Donacobius was always around, here again posing in the flowers.