Kavey's Serian Trip Report

[richardafrica]

Hey Kavey, it was nice to meet you at Serian. Great trip report so far... I need to get started on mine and my amazing 8 nights at Serian.

[Kavey]

2nd September

Wake up at 6.10 and hot water has been delivered to use at the outside basin. (The simpler tents here don’t have sinks inside, but have a metal bowl held in a three-legged stand. Water is provided in a bucket on the ground, with a jug to transfer to the bowl. Once you’ve finished, you can discard your dirty water on the ground nearby to leave an empty bowl for the next person. The hot water is nice.

 

We have some coffee and head off at 6.30.

 

Elephants are near the camp again, but not very active, seem to be mostly asleep so we set off on a long, slow drive.

 

After a while we come across a family of lions with 2 lionesses and 3 cubs. They are pretty active. One of the cubs is about 1.5 years old, the other 2 around 6-8 months. They all play and cuff each other and one of the adults nearby. Hyenas are in the area, and one of the females takes umbrage, even though we can’t spot a kill anywhere in the vicinity. She chases a hyena off, but doesn’t turn back after the first run. Instead she continues to chase the hyena in spurts, well into the distance, so far we can no longer see. We watch the others play, trot, nuzzle… and one of the cubs seems to be practicing making scary faces as it keeps grimacing in most amusing way.

 

Our next experience is whilst sitting a fair distance from the water’s edge, up hill from the river, at a crossing point. On the other side, the river bank is a steep cliff bank along most of the stretch we canee, except for a triangular stretch that’s been worn down by crossing animals to slope down to the water. We wait for some time, happily watching the wildebeest slowly amass on the other side, coming closer to the crossing point. After a while a couple of other cars join on our side, there are none on the other side.

 

The wildebeest are starting to become more restless and it seems that they may be approaching a readiness to cross. Suddenly, from a track on the other side, a vehicle drives directly towards the animals. It pauses and flashes it’s lights (we’re not sure who at, on our side are only a couple of vehicles, positioned far back from the river, so as not to spook the animals). Then, to our complete shock, the vehicle drives right into the heart of the herd of animals, right down into the sloping crossing area, leading the animals to panic and start moving away from the water. It then drives up and along the edge of the bank, pushing it’s way between the animals and cliff edge and speeds off in that direction.

 

For the first few moments, we all just watch in utter shock but I do eventually manage to pause and grab a photograph, which I’m hoping might help in identifying the perpetrator though I doubt it. Binoculars revealed the car to be from the Serena lodge, on that side of the river but we were too far away to see number plates or anything like that.

 

I’m furious, not because of the aborted crossing – we know we’ll have plenty of opportunity, and even if we don’t see one, that’s part of the game viewing experience, nothing being guaranteed – but because this behaviour is so outrageous and so disturbing to the animals and anyone driving for one of the permanent local camps and lodges knows better.

 

In the sketch I’ve made the green car is the Serena car, the red line is its path, the lighter ground is the sloping crossing point, the rest of the land is steep banks. Our car is the grey on the other side. (I haven’t yet sorted through my thousands of RAW image files but will do so to submit a complaint).

 

(I have tried to embed image but can't work out how, if a mod can, please do edit my post for me to include)

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/kavey/5011510818/sizes/z/

 

After witnessing this shocker, we moved on to another spot, amidst some of the deeper shrubbery on a river bank – we were hidden right amidst it. We were quickly surrounded by birds of which the ones that enchanted me the most were a pair of baglafecht weavers. One or other of them in turn would land in the branches right by us and then on the car, on the bars, roof and then claws clutching the aerial on the bonnet. We quickly realised that the wildebeest were still spooked from the Serena car ambush but before moving on, spent some wonderful time grinning at the weavers.

 

At our next stop we saw several huge crocodiles sunning at the water’s edge. And more weavers. Suddenly, after our first sighting of a bird I don’t recall seeing before, it was as though they’d passed on some magical message to all of their brethren along the river bank and a pair or more came out to greet us, bold as you like, at so many places we stopped.

 

We saw some little bee eaters too, my favourite bird in Africa. Although there are others I’ve fallen for too, this is the one that first took my breath away not only with it’s small size and sweet colours but the way in which the birds cuddle up against each other, all in a row on a bending reed in the Okavango. So I always love to see these beauties.

 

At one spot, we feel like we’re in some kind of bird sanctuary. Not only are there more weavers, we’re also delighted by bold-as-you-like ruppell’s long tailed starlings, arrow marked babblers and white browed robin chat with its vivid orange underside. Out over the river infront of us (we’re parked right up on the edge) swifts glide and swoop and dart. Suddenly, four starlings rush out of a nearby tree and cross together to the other bank. “It’s a crossing” I cry with glee, much to the amusement of S & D!

[Geoff]

enjoying reading each instalment. Your episode with the Serena vehicle reminded me of another moment that I witnessed with appalling lack of consideration for an animal's wellbeing. That was also in Kenya but long, long ago.

 

It seems times have not changed.

[Nyamera]

Lovely report, Kavey! I’m glad I’m not the only narcoleptic Safaritalker. I don’t know why you guide identified a “pygmy hippo”. It sounds extremely unlikely and was probably a language mix-up, or he didn’t want to tell you that it was a motherless calf. Have you reported the Serena vehicle yet?

[PT123]

Great installment, I look forward to reading more. The Serena driver's behavior would have really ticked me off - I wish there was some way to report their behavior to the Serena as I wouldn't think that they would look too kindly on this type of behavior - absolutely outrageous!

[Kavey]

Lovely report, Kavey! I’m glad I’m not the only narcoleptic Safaritalker. I don’t know why you guide identified a “pygmy hippo”. It sounds extremely unlikely and was probably a language mix-up, or he didn’t want to tell you that it was a motherless calf. Have you reported the Serena vehicle yet?

That's what I thought but when we saw it on a second day, I must concede his point - it simply didn't LOOK like a calf, just a teeny tiny fully grown hippo. It was odd. I don't know what to tell you.

 

Not a case of not being willing to tell us - we saw many sights and he was not shy about the circle of life, nor are we.

[Kavey]

Great installment, I look forward to reading more. The Serena driver's behavior would have really ticked me off - I wish there was some way to report their behavior to the Serena as I wouldn't think that they would look too kindly on this type of behavior - absolutely outrageous!

 

When I get my photos sorted I am intending to report it.

[inyathi]

Kavey,

 

Very interesting, I’ll be visiting the Northern Serengeti next year so hopefully I might get to see some good wildebeest action.

 

Did you get any photos of the ‘pygmy hippo’? I imagine it must have been an odd looking common hippo. The true pygmy hippo Choeropsis (or Hexaprotodon) liberiensis is only found in West Africa in Guinea, Sierra Leone, Liberia and Ivory coast and possibly Nigeria though it’s probably extinct there see map. There are at least a couple at the Mount Kenya Wildlife Conservancy perhaps one of theirs has gone walkabout.

 

Just by coincidence I happened to record a program called ‘Wildlife in a Warzone’ that was on in the early hours last night on BBC4. In the program a US Nature Conservancy biologist Sanjayan Muttulingam who grew up in Sierra Leone returns to the country to see if any pygmy hippos and other wildlife survived the countries brutal civil war. It was very interesting program and will be broadcast again at 00:45 on Sun Oct 3rd if you want to record it otherwise you can catch it on iPlayer for the next 9 days. BBC4 Wildlife in a Warzone

 

If you want to know how to embed photos from your Flickr account I think I can help, although it’s taken me a bit of time to work it out because Flickr’s changed since I did my first report it’s a bit more complicated now. If you’re using Internet Explorer open a separate tab then go to Flickr select the photo you want click share this and then click Grab the HTML/BBCode you then need to copy just the bit that starts for example http://farm5.static.flickr.com/..... .jpg as long as it starts http followed by farm and ends .jpeg it should work after you’ve inserted the image the url should have either side, then click preview, if it hasn’t worked check that you copied it properly, I’ve had to copy some of mine several times before I got it right. I’ve only just noticed that one of the photos on my Indian report didn’t come up. Don’t use ‘Grab the link’ that doesn’t work, it's a bit complicated but I hope this helps.

[Kavey]

I don't think I got photos of the wee hippo because we saw it both times in same area and that was as returning towards Nkorombo as it was getting too dark to take photos so had put camera away into bag...

And yes, I know they're only meant to be native to West Africa, and rare if still in existence there. So I just don't know what to tell you!!!

THanks for flickr tips, will try!

x

[Atravelynn]

So that's how you include so many details--you record what you are seeing. What a great strategy! I'm still ticked at the driver that disrupted the migration.

 

That pygmy hippo is generating lots of interest.

 

Looking forward to the rest of your trip. I'm impressed with your promptness in reporting in contrast to my lack of one so far.

 

Sept was an exciting time to be in the Mara, wasn't it?

[Kavey]

It was brilliant!

Have been away for long weekend and out most days and evenings recently so not had time to add more but have not forgotten!

x

[Kavey]

From our bird sanctuary we head on to find a breakfast spot. The first option is taken (by others from our camp!) so we move on to another – like the bird spot from earlier, it’s right on the edge of the river bank cliff, hidden away by lots of scrubby bushes so we’re in complete privacy.

 

S&D set up our table in the shade, where we have more chats and weavers for company – Pete laughs when he sees one individual tap at it’s reflection in the car wing mirror but it has flown away before he can show me.

 

To our surprise, we watch some hippos emerge from the river right next to the most enormous crocodiles you can imagine. Although the crocs are resting, mouths wide open, the hippos pass so close we’re amazed there isn’t some kind of fight. But the crocodiles sleep on and the hippos are soon gone.

 

After breakfast, we start heading in the direction of camp but stop to watch a crossing start from our side across to the other bank. First the zebras go, just a handful of them and that gives 15-20 wildebeest the confidence to follow. But the crossing seems to stall and other animals on our side don’t seem particularly keen to go. As our viewpoint is fairly distant, we continue on our drive.

 

Nearer to camp we stop at another crossing point with a huge mass of wildebeest on the other side, restless and raring to cross. Once the crossing has started, Dennis repositions us and we have a great view, watching hundreds and hundreds leap and surge across the water. We don’t spot any crocodiles present so it’s rather a successful crossing for the desperate animals. It’s an amazing sight.

 

We reach camp at 12.45 and have time for hot showers before pre-lunch drinks. We’re just waiting for lunch when a call comes in about a wild rhino sighting. We leap in Annie and Tim’s car (with David and William) and tear across to the location but it takes quite some time to find it and the rhino has since disappeared into dense brush. We spend quite a long time searching before giving up.

 

Then, on the way back to camp, we arrive at a crossing point at exactly the right time to witness an absolutely fantastic crossing. The animals, on the bank opposite us, drop down from a high river bank cliff onto a waterside ledge before leaping into the water. The drop from the ledge seems death-defying as do some of the sailing jumps out into the water.

 

A few animals change their mind and try and climb back up the sheer cliff to the bank above but it’s steep and they struggle tremendously, clambering over each other and then dropping back down. Eventually, one finds a route and momentum and the others follow until just one individual is left down on the ledge, wanting to return up onto the bank. For ages we watch him trying and trying and are all glad when he eventually gives up on that route, walks around the ledge and finds another way up further along the river.

 

Again, no crocodiles but truly, an exhilarating experience. Our position was perfect and we hope to have some good images of the wildebeest leaping through the air. Wow!

 

Eventually we return to camp for a late lunch of fabulous spare ribs, quiche, salad and a chocolate dessert. Then it’s time for some lessons on digital photography for Tim, who has just bought a DLSR for the first time and has asked for a few pointers and explanations.

 

No time for a nap, at 4pm we go straight out on our afternoon drive, pausing to admire the enormous hippo o the grass just outside the camp.

 

Near camp are a large flock of geese, all of which lift into the air at once, though not because of us getting too close, I hasten to add. We also watch a few grassland pipits drinking water by a stream running into the main river.

 

Then the call comes in that the rhino is back out and off we speed. We drive a long way, so far I ask whether we’re heading to Uganda (no, my geography isn’t that lousy, I was just being silly). Again, when we arrive in the specified area, the rhino is not to be seen but there are three or four cars and we drive around slowly attempting to spot the huge beast. And somebody does!

 

We convene in the open grassland and watch the huge animal saunter slowly and casually across the grass from one scrubby patch of bushes to the other. It’s an amazingly clear and close view of a while rhino – what a privilege!

 

Before we leave, we also watch two zebras fight, it’s brief but vicious as they snap at each other with powerful jaws and jump and roll right over each other on the ground.

 

We head home seeing the normal buffalo, wilde, zebra and also some cokes wildebeest.

 

At camp for 6.30 I quickly write up my diary, not wanting to forget any of our wonderful experiences and we gather at the fire, warming ourselves around it, listening the water rushing by noisily almost at our feet, with chosen drinks in hand.

 

We had originally been told we had exclusive bookings at the mobile camps but actually, we’ve really enjoyed sharing the camp with Tim and Annie, we couldn’t have picked better camp mates. After a dinner in the mess tent of chicken and rice, we have more drinks around the fire before saying our goodbyes and calling it a night.

[samburumags]

Great report Kavey very very interesting reading. With regards to your episode with the Serena vehicle I was amazed this time that we met so few vehicles. It appears that the guides are now communicating with their guides from their own camp rather than communicate on the main network. This way we spotted a leopard for example and my man just telephoned the guides from our camp. Only four vehicles arrived which was not bad for a leopard! Lion sightings were much the same in fact most of them were just lions and me!!!

[Kavey]

Yeah most guides are communicating with their own camps only, I think. Then again, in Serian's case, their car radios only connect them to camp and other guides, I think. Of course, they have their mobiles too...

 

In many cases, where more cars assemble, it's simply a case of driving along, spotting two or three cars together and investigating through binocs what they are looking at, and joining them if there's something interesting and not too many other cars already there/ it won't disturb/ block the animal.

[twaffle]

Kavey, good report continues. Question about the rhino, are you sure it was a white? I thought they were only in the sanctuary to the north of the reserve and not in the reserve itself. Glad to know I'm wrong but would be interested in more information on this sighting.

[Kavey]

Gosh, I think so, but I didn't write it down. I thought it was white as I'd thought it had the wide mouth, but would have to check photos to be sure. Will ask Pete to have a look for me!

Edited October 11, 2010 by Kavey

[madaboutcheetah]

Guides in the Mara, as in any place else do change location or lodges etc etc., and i'm guessing they stay in touch to help out friends - do remember that the Mara has good cell phone network everywhere.

[Kavey]

Absolutely, and our guides may well have caught up with friends via their phones during lunch periods, but we never saw them using their mobiles during the drives themselves, actually, only once and that was to connect with someone on our behalf.

[Atravelynn]

Your wilde crossings sound very exciting. Glad these were not disrupted by rude visitors.