Postcards from Kenya

[Game Warden]

Yes, that would be great, one of Twaff's photos on the cover of Tony's next book!

[twaffle]

Fantastic, Twaff.

 

Looking for a nice black rhino pic for the next cover. Lost your email when my laptop crashed before xmas. Can you please email me.

 

 

done, if it doesn't arrive in your inbox or you've changed email let me know. Sent to your ozemail account.

[Safaridude]

Love those Grevy's...

[Atravelynn]

A sizeable crash of rhino! Wow! You couldn't order up a better rainbow scene if you tried. Lewa was a fantastic stop.

 

You managed the aggressive troop of vervets better than I handled my agreessive pair of baboons. Maybe I need to take scary face lessons from you.

 

Remind me if you traveled with your cousin or neice or someone. I thought that was the original plan but I could be wrong.

Edited February 7, 2011 by Atravelynn

[twaffle]

Atravelynn, I travelled with my sister.

 

My scary face probably wouldn't have worked with baboons!

[twaffle]

LIFE'S AN ADVENTURE - PT 2

(I've made the photos smaller to upload faster, so I'm sorry for the lowering yet again of image quality)

 

A ball of flaming sun hovers over the horizon, Grevy's zebras walk in the foreground, the sound of their hooves in the damp grass making a soft swish and thud as they move. The light shower has freshened the dusty land and given a different perspective on the bush.

 

 

 

 

Noticing the black rhino cow from yesterday, still accompanied by her two calves, we drive down the road cautiously. She is close to the road but between bushes so we sit quietly watching.

 

 

The breeze gusts and her head lifts. Ears straining forward, nose raised, she looks in our direction. We have rolled down the slope, engine off, when suddenly she charges.

 

 

The speed and power takes me by surprise but Simon, our guide, follows his training and brakes hard. We sit motionless, not breathing, as she and one calf come oh so close. She stops abruptly less than 1m from where I'm sitting in the open 4x4. I can smell her animal scent and see the filariel wound on her neck. It seems like minutes, but only seconds pass and she trots back a few metres. It is enough for us to roll down the hill out of danger but she sees the movement and is after us with absolutely no hesitation. Simon starts the Land Cruiser and puts his foot down just as she hits high gear. The wheels kick up dust and it swirls around the rhino as we accelerate away.

[twaffle]

MEETING EXPECTATIONS - PT 1

 

From the comfort of home I can now consider some of the things which I encountered on my trip. One of the standout problems I saw was the lack of knowledge some tourists had of their destination, both in terms of accommodation and also the actual Park, Reserve or Conservancy. Also noted was a lack of preparation by travel agents in matching accommodations with the expectations of their clients. This came up again and again whilst I was travelling around talking to people, even in Melbourne airport when leaving Australia.

 

One such consideration is the interpretation of the idea of 'luxury' and what it means to different people. I would consider a more appropriate term 'creature comforts' as then it is easier to itemise what is necessary to the comfort of each person travelling.

 

For instance, take me (well, not literally!!) …

If asked what I considered luxury in safari travel it would be the following;

… private, open, 4x4 vehicle

… relatively isolated, bushland setting with traditional Meru/Selous (many differing names used) canvas tents spaced far enough apart so that you can barely hear or see any other people

… bathroom close enough so that you don't have lie in bed at 3 in the morning with your legs crossed hoping you can hold on until dawn

… showers, be they bucket or running water and the chill taken off is good, hot is better

… healthy, interesting food but not necessarily gourmet Michelin star offerings

… competent, friendly camp staff who will chat and laugh with the guests

… excellent guides with a passion for showing their guests the big, small, animal and plant of their world

… private, open, 4x4 vehicle (twice intentionally as it is THE most important item in my view to having a successful safari)

 

This would be far removed from someone else's idea of luxury which could be fly camping in the depths of tsetse country or air conditioning and plunge pools.

 

I noted some of the matters which concerned other travellers and where they felt let down.

 

Many hated open vehicles because they were much too close to the environment which included rain, sun, dust, insects and predators. How easy would it be for a travel agent to find this out before sending them to a camp or lodge which uses such vehicles? I would have thought it pretty basic.

 

A large number wanted electricity in their rooms or tents. Another pretty basic thing to find out before booking in a place.

 

Many hated bathrooms located away from the room or non flushing toilets.

 

Food. Some people I spoke to wanted high end catering … in the bush. For heavens sake, I ask you!!! But if that is important to their safari then the TA should have made sure they were sent to camps with a reputation for their food.

 

Some people wanted their big cats to have names which matched all the ones they have seen on television. I kid you not. In one case I know a guest (who posts somewhere else) who even left a camp because the guides weren't knowledgeable enough because they couldn't name every lion they saw. I haven't stayed at this particular camp but they have guides with the highest training and reputation in Kenya, by guests and other camp operators.

 

I could go on and on, but the bottom line came through loud and clear. It is up to the travel agents to meet the expectations of their clients and match them to suitable lodges and camps. It is up to camp operators to stop gilding the lily and make it clear what they offer even if it puts some people off booking at their camp. Why would anyone want to host a guest who is in the wrong place? And lastly, it is up to us, the end consumer, to take the time to do a bit of research and not rely on the opinions of just one or two people.

 

So where did I go wrong with my planning, you may ask. You may be surprised to find out that I don't feel that I went wrong at all.

 

I knew Lake Nakuru Lodge was mass market and wouldn't give the bush feel I love, but I was prepared for that.

I knew the bandas would be basic (I didn't know that the bathroom at the Aberdares would be so far away, but I didn't check that so no use complaining), but gave the isolated sense of adventure which I do like.

I have stayed at Wilderness Trails before and knew that the bush feel would be absent here, but I love the place for what it is and what it doesn't pretend to be.

I knew that Serian's Nkorombo mobile camp is my vision of heaven in Africa, so it didn't matter what went down it was still going to be paradise.

I had done my homework on Serian's main camp before my first visit a year ago, knew what to expect and it lived up to my expectations again.

 

None of these places would be for everyone, no matter the price, but I left each and every place with a profound sense of satisfaction and happiness and more than ready to return. Well, apart from Lake Nakuru, I'm quite ambivalent about the place but I knew that from long ago. Birding, all about the birding.

 

It comes down to each and everyone meeting expectations.

[twaffle]

LEAVING LEWA

 

The Cessna Caravan 2088 vibrates gently as we fly over Il Ngwesi from Lewa bound for Sasaab for a pickup. I look down on the iron coloured earth, dotted with olive hued trees and snakelike brown rivers winding through. Magnificent rocky outcrops rise out of these Northern plains providing drama and great beauty.

 

Moving through clouds as we continue from Sasaab to the Mara, I have a chance to reflect on our last morning at Lewa.

 

Despite ours and our guide Simon's best efforts over the previous days, we never did find those famous cheetah brothers. Although in the process of looking we did find an extremely shy leopard in one of the farthest flung corners of the conservancy on our last evening and this seemed to be a fitting moment to end our last drive.

 

 

Leaving Wilderness Trails was sad, as always and we left the lodge with enough time for a leisurely drive to the airstrip. At last, a hornbill perched on top of a tree in beautiful morning light. With time to sit and photograph this handsome bird we felt relaxed and calm.

 

 

Suddenly Simon received a phone call that told him the cheetahs had been sighted after 5 days of invisibility. Looking at our watches we determined that if we did NOT stop for anything, we could just manage a sighting before leaving. Passing beautifully lit antelopes, warthogs, elephants, birds, buffalo and zebra, we sped to the vast plains and were rewarded with … three sleeping cats.

 

With little time to stay with them, we took a few photos, enjoyed their beauty and with minutes to spare reached the airstrip.

 

 

What a lovely farewell, but not content with that, right by the airstrip we saw a pronking Grant's gazelle and under a nearby tree a massive lioness. Our parting gift from a beautiful area, a herd of giraffe staring down the lioness, Simon waving his arms in farewell and crystal clear skies.

 

[twaffle]

FLOTSAM AND JETSAM

A few additional photos from our stay.

Rhinos are something which are done very well at Lewa and we saw many of both species.

 

The red colour on this tree is caused by a bacteria which appears to protect it from browsers.

 

Sundowners were enjoyed by all the guests and many of the best spots were occupied in the evening.

 

A welcome visitor at meal times.

 

Tony's book in good company.

 

Beisa oryx are incredibly hard to get close to.

 

The landscape is rough and rugged but very evocative.

 

Plenty of excellent birding, like this kingfisher.

 

And this sand grouse

 

A red and yellow barbet

 

If you've never heard the sound a male impala makes, you would be astonished when you hear it for the first time.

 

My bravery in taking this photo still astounds me!

 

As does the bravery of the staff when removing it to the bush safely.

 

Until next time

[ZaminOz]

My bravery in taking this photo still astounds me!

500mm lens, cropped?

[Game Warden]

Years ago in a previous lifetime and employ there was a saying comprising of the six Ps.

 

"Prior preparation prevents p*** poor performance."

 

Clients should take some of the responsibility of researching their trips, and not just hand over large amounts of $$$ to operators or agents, who, should do due diligence in order to earn their mark ups. Indeed, I would take a stab that most of us here enjoy the research: even it is to only read through various trip reports of the country in which you're interested.

 

The story about the client and the big cat names reflects on their ignorance and boorish mentality. If they were so addicted to certain TV shows, they should have been able to identify the cats themselves. I doubt that the guides watch those shows, (like they haven't got enough on their plate every day) and why should they? This is the problem that Big Cat Diary creates.

 

Tony, see the pic above - get Twaffle on the payroll, so as to get her back to her beloved Kenya...

 

By the way how was the gin?

 

Thanks for some great photos and memories. My only question, would you recommend someone with less experience than you staying more time at fewer camps, even maybe just a single camp if there is space available?

[Sverker]

Really enjoying your trip report, Twaffle. The rhinos together with the northern species makes me thinking of Kenya as a destination, again. Your thoughts about expectations is head-on. The travel organizers should employ you as a consultant ...

 

(I've made the photos smaller to upload faster, so I'm sorry for the lowering yet again of image quality)

Sorry too. I love the higher quality.

Edited February 9, 2011 by Sverker

[Game Warden]

A red and yellow barbet

That really is a beautiful looking bird: amazing colours. Can you upload that image to the birding forum if you get chance?

[twaffle]

ZaminOz said:

500mm lens, cropped?

I wish I had a 500mm lens, but you're not far off the truth and it was a little spitting cobra.

 

 

Game Warden said:

Years ago in a previous lifetime and employ there was a saying comprising of the six Ps.

 

"Prior preparation prevents p*** poor performance."

You are so perfectly precisely correct.

 

Game Warden said:

By the way how was the gin?

 

Thanks for some great photos and memories. My only question, would you recommend someone with less experience than you staying more time at fewer camps, even maybe just a single camp if there is space available?

Gin was good and plentiful but I drank Tuskers in Meru. To answer your serious question. I think for a first safari you would need to go to a careful selection of places because you can't tell what you will really enjoy, but the caveat on that is that I would spend at least 3 nights in each location and more in the greater Mara area. (I didn't at Lake Nakuru, 2 nights is ample as it is really small. I didn't at The Aberdares because I wasn't doing any walking trails and the road system is very basic, but I could easily have enjoyed another night there). I should have spent longer in Meru. I have spent 5 nights at Lewa previously and found 3 nights too few as there was a great deal more wildlife activity this time which had a lot to do with the season I travelled in. No perfect answer but the prevailing tactic of long drives and 1 night, 2 if you're lucky, stays is selling the country and the game areas short.

 

Sverker said:

Sorry too. I love the higher quality.

Sorry about that, I'll look at the posting quality before the next installment.

 

 

Game Warden said:

Quote

A red and yellow barbet

That really is a beautiful looking bird: amazing colours. Can you upload that image to the birding forum if you get chance?

 

I'll try to remember to do that.

Edited December 15, 2018 by wilddog

[samburumags]

Still a great report Twaffe, did you enjoy Silent Predator? I thought it was excellent.

[Safaridude]

Twaffle,

 

Do you have a close-up of Simon? I think he was a trainee coming from the Koiyaki Guide School back in '07...

 

I think the game at Lewa is as good as any place in Africa, don't you?

[samburumags]

I am a big fan of Big Cat Diary, it brings Africa to lots of folks who could not afford to go but I agree that those who do finally make the journey think they are visiting a zoo, I have met them myself. One couple actualy asked me what time they fed the animals!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This I suppose is because safari has become cheaper and peope who do not fully understand where or what they are doing can now afford to go, but there was a time when such as myself could not have afforded such a trip either. I nice dilema we have here!

[twaffle]

Twaffle,

 

Do you have a close-up of Simon? I think he was a trainee coming from the Koiyaki Guide School back in '07...

 

I think the game at Lewa is as good as any place in Africa, don't you?

 

No close-up of Simon but the timing would be right as he was at the Koiyaki School and went to Lewa as a study placement sometime around my 2nd visit in 2008. He is a top notch guide and is working towards his Gold certificate which involves a long research project.

 

The game at Lewa is fantastic but not in the same way as the Mara eco-system and I'll try to explain why I think that.

At Lewa, you can always find interesting animals, so many rhinos, Grevy's, I've always found good herds of elephants and this trip I saw lots of lions plus the cheetahs and 2 leopards. At the same time I was there watching the shy leopard, others from the lodge saw a leopard with cubs and another big male. Having said that, on my first visit we saw no lions or cheetahs but a leopard with cubs. Never seen hyaenas, seen 1 or 2 jackals.

 

In the Mara I've driven for miles and miles without seeing anything and that has never been my experience at Lewa. But in the Mara I've seen a huge variety of species which the vast area can accommodate and I haven't seen that at Lewa.

 

I would always try to go to Lewa as not only is it the best place to see rhinos roaming wild and free, it is also the only place where you can guarantee a close up view of Grevy's. And the birding is fantastic. In my view, for sheer quantity of game and variety of species a combination of Lewa and the Mara is unbeatable. Now, if only those sitatungas had managed to breed …

[Bugs]

Your photos are out of this world.

[Atravelynn]

I am up to smelling the charging rhino. Wow!

[twaffle]

CONTEMPLATIONS

 

 

 

I stretch my legs as far as they will go, leaning deeply into the camp chair and breathing deeply of the Mara air. It comes scented heavily with the croton bushes which surround me. This should be prime black rhino habitat but alas they are no longer to be found here, or at least only rarely. The Mara river in front of me is now a swirling brown soup, far different from yesterday when it slid gently past, exposing the massive rocks on the bottom. Rain yesterday on the plains and further away in the hills have flowed quickly into the river and I am surprised at how quickly the level rises.

 

Further away, the Talek river has done the same thing and many of us had to rush to cross before the water became too treacherous to cross, leaving a long drive to return to our various camps. Hearing the urgent calls over the two way radio from various camps calling back their drivers, all in Swahili, was interesting and I wonder how many tourists realised why they were suddenly rushed away from their sightings.

 

Crossing the Talek before the rains.

 

There is a steady pop, pop, pop above my head and I look up to see the seed pods on the bush burst, showering me with husks. The husks are kidney shaped, a pale beige colour and on the outside the remnants of the seed pod, which retain the dark textured look of bark can be seen. The seed itself is about 3mm long, a silky and rich dark slate colour.

 

I brush them out of my hari, distracted briefly from my view of the pod of hippos in front of me. I male is making aggressive moves towards another, mouth open and grumbling. I wait with camera poised, hoping to capture the moment when the two clash tusks and finally, with crash of sound and splash of water they collide.

 

 

On the far side of the dining tent Moses is waving me over. He points to a hippo standing on the open grassland. It moves slowly, in obvious discomfort and we wonder what ails it. Eventually it turns back from its path towards the river, wandering into the croton bush towards the muddy pool where it will again lie in isolation. Away from the biting fish and other territorial males, we hope it will heal and return to the pod.

 

The heavy clouds are building again and I consider the chances of another unseasonal shower. I can't help but enjoy the storms of the Mara, however inconvenient, and the drama that ensues, or the crisp vibrance of the hours after the storm.

[samburumags]

More, more, more PLEASE

[Atravelynn]

Great hippo battle. I remember the seed pod explosions. Indeed a phenomenon to contemplate. Africa is multi-sensory.

[pault]

Didn't they still have the potty in the rooms at Tusk Camp? Funny how I didn't mention that the toilet was outside when I described the place isn't it? My wife would never have omitted that small fact (supporting your assertion).

 

Out of interest, why do you say the amount of wildlife at Lewa was due to the season this time? Bad season last time or good this time?

 

Still reading and enjoying, and wondering at the rhino sightings, even though you have moved on already. I might even be inspired to update my own thread.

[twaffle]

Boys don't seem to have the same bathroom issues!

 

The last 2 times I was at Lewa was in wetter times. We had a great number of different and more numerous sightings on this trip and I thought it might have something to do with the drought and animals coming into the conservancy for food and water.