Peru: Kaleidoscope of Colors. Amazon Cruise, Machu Picchu, Jungle Lodges

[Atravelynn]

Thanks also for your tackling assitance, Treepol, to help with this recent trip. It sounds like we are teammates on an American football team with all the tackling talk.

 

MACHU PICCHU & ENVIRONS ROCK

 

Aug 12

Farewell all too soon to Joel. Fly LAN 8:15-9:55am breakfast flight Iquitos-Lima; then LAN 11:44 am -1:05 pm lunch flight Lima-Cuzco (11,050 feet).

 

View from window seat

 

Hello to Irwin, airport transfer man, and driver José-Luis. Check in to Hotel Casa Andina Koricancha, a convenient 12 minute safe and easy walk to Plaza de Armas, the scenic town square. Then hello to Humberto, my guide. By 2:15 pm Humberto, José-Luis and I were off. A few of the highlights of our many stops included:

 

- Plaza de Armas and the many magnificent treasures in the Cathedral (no photography allowed inside). A beautiful portrait by Quechan painter Marcos Zapata of the Last Supper showed a guinea pig as the main dish and portrayed Pizarro, the Spanish conqueror of Peru, as Judas. Brilliant.

 

- About a 20-30 minute drive into the hills above Cusco are several ruins including Sacsayhuaman (12,140 feet) pronounced sexy woman. At 4:45 pm the light was perfect and a small alpaca herd passed in the foreground.

Alpacas at Sacsayhuaman

 

-Higher at 13,600 feet was Puca Pucara the Red Fort Incan ruins, with a donkey grazing in front.

 

5:45 pm it is getting dark for photos. Puca Pucara, the highest altitude I reached.

 

- Adorning the rooftops of many houses were attractive good luck and religious ornaments, which merited photos.

 

Rooftop ornaments

 

- Since it was Sunday in August, families were flying kites near the White Christ Statue above Cusco. The number of colorful kites was a sight in itself. What an uplifting and colorful, family friendly panorama.

 

Kite flying in the hills above Cuzco

 

For anyone wishing to linger at the historic places that make up the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Cuzco or to set up shots for the best photographic light at each site, a 2:15-6:30-ish tour like mine is insufficient. For anyone wanting a quick overview, like me, it was perfect.

 

A couple blocks from Hotel Casa Andina Koricancha I walked safely to/from Deva Restaurant on cobblestoned lit sidewalks for my dinner about 7:30 pm. Deva specializes in cuisine from Cuzco. When roasted guinea pig was served to a neighboring table, the waiter paused to give me a look at the traditional dish. There were complimentary samples of chicha de jora, a local corn beer and maiz cancha cusco, a snack similar to popcorn. I had k’apchi de zetas, a stew of mushrooms, green beans, potatoes, and rice. The congenial waitress turned each course into a highly entertaining, informative, and delicious gastronomy lesson.

Edited October 13, 2012 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

Combating altitude sickness in Cuzco (11,050 feet): Right off the plane, I bought those coca candies that are sold all over and started sucking on them. The coca tea at every hotel is a pleasant tasting prevention and I was told to take it 3 times per day. And I brought drugs—Acetazolamide. When I awoke with a terrible headache in the middle of the night in Cuzco, I was glad I could pop one altitude sickness pill and drift back to sleep, pain-free, in 30 minutes. Never needed another, but it was comforting to know I had a stash.

 

For anyone really worried about altitude sickness, visiting the ruins above Cuzco, which means ascending from Cuzco’s approximately 11,050 feet to nearly 14,000 feet, might not be wise. It also might help to leave Cuzco immediately after de-planing for the cities enroute to Machu Picchu, such as Pisac (10,500 ft and 20 miles from Cuzco) or Ollantaytambo (9,160 ft and 60 miles from Cuzco).

 

When I first started investigating, I thought one stayed in Cuzco to acclimate to the altitude in anticipation of climbing higher yet to Machu Picchu. Since Machu Picchu is at a lower altitude of only 8,000 feet, vs. Cuzco’s 11,000+ feet, that reasoning was wrong. In fact, 8,000 feet is not supposed to give most people trouble. Some itineraries place Cuzco sites at the end, saving the highest altitude for last, which makes sense from an altitude acclimating standpoint. But after seeing Ollantaytambo and especially Machu Picchu, the Cuzco ruins may be anti-climactic.

Edited October 13, 2012 by twaffle

[Atravelynn]

Aug 13

8:00 am departure by vehicle from Cuzco for The Sacred Valley Tour. I asked around about why this valley was sacred and got a somewhat cynical answer: It is so named for marketing purposes. Every valley was actually sacred to the Incas. Marketing or not, it is an interesting and scenic route, including the second most visited site in Peru. A few of my Sacred Valley highlights include:

 

- Sanctuario Animal de Cochahuasi- A privately run sanctuary in conjunction with Universidad San Ignacio de Loyola in Lima for recovered abused and black market animals. They have a puma that had spent her life in a drugged induced state so nightclubbers could pet her. She will remain undersized for life. It was nice to see her snoozing contentedly in the morning’s first rays. They are introducing pumas born in captivity back into the wild.

 

This enclosure was big......................................................................Andean Condor at rest

 

There are two Andean Condors that flap around and with enough room to spread their wings and fly a short ways. A one eyed alpaca was very friendly. A tortoise lumbered around.

 

In addition to the rescued species leading a better life, I enjoyed meeting a friendly domestic Peruvian Hairless Dog. A fascinating breed and friendly fellow. Worth a stop and a donation. Not stated on the itinerary but Humberto figured I’d enjoy it and he was right.

 

Peruvian Hairless Dog and me. At 9:30 am, I still have double layers on.

 

- Awanakancha-The entire life cycle of the beautiful traditional Peruvian textiles can be found here, from roaming, wool-producing llamas and alpacas that are eager to be hand fed, to a fascinating wool dying demo, to weavers creating textile art, to samples of the various types weaves, to the finished product for sale.

 

 

Awanakancha Activities

 

- Sharp-eyed Humberto spotted a couple of wild Chinchillas sunning on a distant rooftop and I got some shots before they scampered off. A nice surprise.

Chincilla

 

- Urubamba River aka Vilcanota River aka Wilcamayu River. It flows past Machu Picchu.

Runs through Sacred Valley and past Machu Picchu

 

 

- Pisac—the Official Start of the Sacred Valley boasts a huge, colorful market place. Arrival at 10:30 am.

 

In Pisac

 

- Lunch at the picturesque Sonesta Posada del Inca Yucay Hotel at 11:30 am. We chose a spot outside under an umbrella. Mmm. Mmm. Nice grounds for stretching your legs.

 

Sonesta Posada del Inca Yucay Hotel

Edited October 13, 2012 by Atravelynn

[twaffle]

I am really enjoying this Lynn. My sister breeds both alpacas and llamas so it is always interesting to see them in their 'home' environment. Chinchillas? That was a lucky sighting. Your travel company seems to be proactive.

[Atravelynn]

...continuing into the Sacred Valley...

 

- Not specifically mentioned on the official itinerary, but a favorite of my whole day was a stop to observe beer making, do some sampling, and play a traditional Cuzco drinking game. This visit was a wonderful mix of culture, art, ingenuity, and humor.

 

Such accolades for beer and enthusiasm for a drinking game in the presence of these world renowned historical sites indicate I probably should have just worn a cheesehead* throughout the whole Sacred Valley tour. But I found the entire brewing process to be fascinating, the strawberry beer to be tasty, and the traditional golden frog and desk drawer drinking game to be very clever.

 

Brewing site

 

Drawing on skills acquired during his days of misspent youth, Humberto exhibited mastery of the drinking game by tossing gold coins at an open-mouthed gold frog, perched on a small desk. The goal is to throw the coin into the frog’s mouth or have it fall into one of the many drawers for points. The ultimate objective is to score the most points to win free beer from your drinking buddies.

 

Cuzco game of skill for beer

 

I even snapped one of my favorite photos here—multi-colored corn before it became beer.

 

 

 

 

As a bonus, there was guinea pig barn.

 

 

- Ollantaytambo, the second most visited site in Peru, and a charming town as well, it is usually considered the end of the Sacred Valley. Arrival at 2 pm. Spent about 2 hours climbing and exploring the massive structure with Humberto.

 

 

Structures and people of Ollantaytambo

 

- Arrival at 4 pm to the impressive Pakaritampu Hotel with its expansive gardens and lawn. A group of birders staying there was going nuts with all the avian activity on the grounds and they shared some of their excitement/sightings with me. (bird list at end of report)

 

Pakaritampu Hotel

 

One of the most interesting sights in the town of Ollantaytambo were water channels created by the Incas, still in use today. The walk from Pakaritampu Hotel to the water channels and main square was about 10 minutes on narrow cobblestone and gravel paths, very safe with lots of visitors around even at night.

 

Ollantaytambo

 

Humberto suggested dinner at the Blue Puppy, also a 10-minute walk from the hotel. The famous Peruvian dish Lomos Saltadis came in several versions, including falafel, a tasty way to cap off the Sacred Valley. During dinner Humberto and I discussed the race for guides and porters to Machu Picchu along the same Inca Trail that visitors spend 4 days hiking. The winning time was about 4 hours. A decade ago Humberto clocked in at 6 hours. Not bad!

 

* http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cheesehead

Edited October 13, 2012 by twaffle

[Atravelynn]

I am really enjoying this Lynn. My sister breeds both alpacas and llamas so it is always interesting to see them in their 'home' environment. Chinchillas? That was a lucky sighting. Your travel company seems to be proactive.

 

A couple I met and spent several days with at Heath River bred llamas for a living. They talked about the different personalities of each of their llamas. Once I did a llama walk in a local state park, where the llama carries lunch and you hike around, leading the llama on paths. The llama handlers told me that female llamas (and probably alpacas) can be sold for a lot of money. The llama handlers had a small herd and their first 13 births were all male. They could not believe their bad luck. I think the odds of 13 maies in 13 births are 1 in 8192.

[Sangeeta]

Gets better with each episode. First time I'm seeing photos of wild chinchillas - yes, very proactive guides.

 

Did you ever consider the Inca trail for this trip, Lynn (or have you already done that in the past?)

[Atravelynn]

Gets better with each episode. First time I'm seeing photos of wild chinchillas - yes, very proactive guides.

 

Did you ever consider the Inca trail for this trip, Lynn (or have you already done that in the past?)

 

Guide Humberto was indeed proactive, not only by pointing out a chinchilla. He had arranged extended stays for himself with families who lived near Machu Picchu to gain a better understanding of their culture, as it related to that of the people who lived during the Incan empire, 1400s-mid 1500s. Lots of practices have not changed. He gained some unique insights during a funeral and burial while he lived in the village. The way the body was prepared and handled provided him greater understanding of some of the stone structures at Machu Picchu. There were rooms that he described as likely chambers for preparation of the dead and he showed me the features that made him come to that conclusion.

 

The Trail Untaken

The only reason I did not include the Inca Trail on this first trip to Peru was time and my priorities. I wanted to maximize my time in Pacaya Samiria to see pink dolphins and in Tambopata for macaws and other jungle species. That meant Machu Picchu had to fit and 4 days on the Inca Trail (or I might have done the 5 day trip which is more leisurely) required more time than I had. I spent 4 nights/5 days total devoted to the whole Inca culture/environs and Machu Picchu. August would have been be an ideal time for the trail with less chance of rain.

 

Some other considerations were: I do challenge myself to try to find different species, but I have no desire to achieve any specific physical challenges--like completing the Inca Trail. Though I think it would be cool and anyone I talked to who had done the Inca Trail really liked it. There are not a lot of cultural interactions on the Inca Trail. Other places are more suited to that, like Lares Valley. Another time (if I am fortunate enough to have another time) I'd like to try the Lares Valley hike, but it is higher than Cuzco's 11,000+ feet, at 15,125 feet.

 

I had read several articles that encouraged visitors to Peru to go hiking somewhere else other than The Inca Trail because it was getting overused and stressed. I liked that approach. But none of those other trails, including Lares Valley, has the fame and legend of The Inca Trail.

 

Another option that I found out about once I got there was a One Day Inca Trail excursion. You're dropped off on the Inca Trail several hours from Machu Picchu and walk on in. That would be a compromise and provide a taste of the Inca Trail.

 

Many visitors to Peru start with The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu and then see what else fits with it. I started with pink dolphins and macaws and then fit Machu Picchu into that itinerary.

 

In fact, at one point I thought I'd forget Machu Picchu altogether because (1) I wanted to concentrate more on wildlife activities and (2) I thought Aug was not the best time for MP and I'd rather go in May when it would be optimal. Not including MP on a 19-day Peru vacation would have been a mistake IMO so I'm glad I went. Arriving on foot via The Inca Trail would have been the most adventurous and exciting way of getting to Machu Picchu. The train was great too.

Edited October 13, 2012 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

Aug 14

At 6 am Humberto and I and my luggage left Pakaritampu and took a mototaxi to the Ollantaytambo train station about 3 minutes away, which could easily be walked. Boarded the 7:05 am Vistadome train, about $15 USD more than regular train, and worth it IMO for a first time round-trip visit.

 

Nice little breakfast served on board. Beautiful route along the Vilcanota river, have your camera ready. Humberto pointed out an original Incan bridge, still used today, but with fortifications. He pointed out some Torrent Ducks and I saw two White-capped Dippers. Arrived 8:30 am in Aguas Calientes (6,700 ft) and de-trained.

 

This is an original Incan bridge that has been restored. It leads to the mall building on the right bank.

Met a porter from my Aguas Calientes hotel, El Mapi, and handed over everything, except what I was carrying with me to Machu Picchu, a tad disconcerting to me, but the typical procedure.

 

Crossed the street to where the Machu Picchu shuttle buses run continuously with no more than five minutes between buses, no scheduled departures. Thirty minute bus ride to the top. I made a final ladies room stop outside the Machu Picchu entrance, at a cost 1 sol, exact change appreciated, (no loos after entering) and joined Humberto in the line. We entered the gate and walked a few hundred yards. About 9:45 am, the first views of Machu Picchu!

 

 

We descended to explore the buildings, walkways, plazas, and rooms during our morning together. No guidebook could have offered the personalized expertise and enthusiasm of Humberto in his knowledge of culture and architecture.

 

Switchbacks along road for the 30 minute shuttle bus trip from Aguas Calientes up to the entrance of Machu Picchu.......................................................................................... Guide Humberto suggested this platform was used to wash prepare the bodies of the dead

 

Humberto made sure I knew the path to the Sun Gate and Inca Bridge, pointing out which way to go in preparation of the next day on my own.

 

We had a buffet lunch at the Sanctuary Lodge, which was very good quality, but the chaotic and deafening atmosphere posed a challenge to diners as well as to a determined group of talented musicians performing in front of the hot dog rotisserie.

 

The lunch was part of my package and it made sense to stop midday for a hearty meal. But I noted a far calmer, less crowded café across the way that might be a better bet, as well as less expensive. As a former high school cafeteria monitor, I have a high threshold for “chaotic and deafening,” but this definitely was.

 

Edited October 13, 2012 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

A sad farewell to Humberto about 2:00 pm. My independent exploration of Machu Picchu commenced. I devoted the afternoon to trying to find the herd of 13 resident llamas in attractive poses in front of ruins, terraces, or mountains. The llamas were not shy about claiming the right of way on the cobblestone paths, pushing past visitors. Some enjoyed attention and petting. I watched one steal a banana from an unsuspecting visitor.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

......................................................................................Baby is peeking out from behind mama llama

 

End of the Llama Portfolio

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

At 4:15 pm I was all Machu Picchu-ed out for the day and took the 30-minute bus back down to Aguas Calientes, then walked 10 minutes through the main plaza to El Mapi Hotel to check in and grab my belongings that had been handed off when the train had arrived in Aguas Calientes.

 

Inkaterra’s El Mapi,“designed to cater to budget-minded travelers,” and to be ecologically friendly, opened 1 April 2012. It was about $200/night less than Inkaterra’s Pueblo Hotel. I thought El Mapi was very fancy and extremely nice, serving delicious, several-course meals and a complimentary welcome Pisco Sour or lemonade at the classy bar. It has hot springs on the premises, and terrycloth robes for “spring wear.” (I passed on each). Though described as budget, the cost is a couple hundred US dollars.

 

El Mapi is even more conveniently located for the bus and the train station than its well-known sister hotel, Inkaterra Pueblo, and there’s less uphill walking required. Another bonus is that El Mapi guests are invited to ascend several blocks to visit the Pueblo Hotel and enjoy the vast gardens, orchids, and jungle riverfront, which attract hummingbirds and other species. So El Mapi guests don’t miss out on these magnificent grounds, they’re just not out your door.

Edited October 13, 2012 by Atravelynn

[AKR1]

Very nice report. Brought back great memories. We had stayed at Inketerra Pueblo while visiting Machu Picchu. Now that you been there, I recommend a recent book if you have any interest in a deeper understanding of Machu Picchu- its called "Turn Right at Machu Picchu- Rediscovering the Lost City One Step at a Time".

Edited October 13, 2012 by AKR1

[Atravelynn]

Very nice report. Brought back great memories. We had stayed at Inketerra Pueblo while visiting Machu Picchu. Now that you been there, I recommend a recent book if you have any interest in a deeper understanding of Machu Picchu- its called "Turn Right at Machu Picchu- Rediscovering the Lost City One Step at a Time".

 

Thanks for adding the film and book touches, AKR1! Absolutely beautiful grounds at Pueblo.

[Atravelynn]

Aug 15

El Mapi starts serving a breakfast buffet at 4:00 am. I ate, and at 5:00 am handed off my luggage to the front desk to be stored and then transferred to the train station 30 minutes before my afternoon departure train, where I’d retrieve my things once again. The streets were well lit on the way to the bus, no flashlight needed. I was in the bus line at 5:10 am. There were hundreds of people ahead of me. I made it onto the 3^rd or 4^th bus that morning. No waiting in between buses; it was one after the next at that early hour. Entered the Machu Picchu gate at 6:15 am. The sun appeared about 8:00 am after the heavy cloud cover disappeared.

 

 

Traded the pursuit of llamas for the Sun Gate and Inca Bridge, each marked on the pathways, and there are numerous English speaking guides to help with directions.

View from near Sun Gate.......................................................................................................Original Inca Bridge, not in use

At 11:15 am I said adios to Machu Picchu and took the bus back to Aguas Calientes to search out the calienta agua that is known for. At the end of the steep hill that is the main street, probably 6 blocks, are the hot springs. Several people were relaxing in various little pools but I just looked.

Edited October 14, 2012 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

Back down to the grounds of Inkaterra’s Pueblo Hotel (sister hotel of El Mapi), where I sat and watched hummingbirds, found one orchid (not orchid season in Aug) and walked along the river for what seemed like a mile, admiring the plant life. Lots of red Kantuta blooms, the national flower of Peru.

Kanuta, National Flower of Peru.........................................Kanuta closeup

 

I paid the colorful markets at the train station a visit and took pictures.

 

At 3:40 the luggage was transferred from the El Mapi Hotel to the train station and then attended by an El Mapi staff member for 30 minutes before the 4:22 pm train. I retrieved my bag and boarded the Vistadome train to Poroy, the nearest stop to Cuzco.

 

A nice little dinner on the train was followed by costumed porters dancing to drums, plus a fashion show of really beautiful and exquisite alpaca clothing for sale. Many sales were made. A very fun and festive ride; then it got dark and most of us were out, drained from our active day.

Entertainment on the Vistadome train to Machu Picchu

 

Poroy is the final stop—the Cuzco stop—at 8:00 pm where Irwin and José-Luis were there to transfer me back to Casa Andina Koricancha Hotel.

 

I talked to numerous people whose Machu Picchu visits took a variety of forms—mid-morning arrival, pre-sunrise arrival, just one afternoon, a single full day visit, two days with one day climbing one of the peaks, one day primarily devoted to climbing a peak—no matter what, everybody was happy with their visit.

 

 

 

Edited October 14, 2012 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

IN THE JUNGLE, ON THE RIVER, AT THE LAKE, TO THE CLAY LICK--TAMBOPATA

 

Aug 16

Fly LAN 7:40 am-8:35 am Cuzco-Puerto Maldonado with breakfast. One hour delay due to weather. Airport ground transfer to Inkaterra’s office to organize bags, drop off big items, change clothes, and sip an exceptionally refreshing welcome drink. Then a 30-minute boat transfer on the Madre de Dios River to Reserva Amazonica Lodge for our escorted canopy walk, arriving 11:00 am.

 

 

This canopy walk is not normally part of the itinerary and even mixes and matches the companies Inkaterra and InkaNatura. Mine was an odd situation due to incorrect flights booked by other guests that resulted in three of us getting to do this walk. Even without odd things by other people, you could schedule one night at Reserva Amazonica Lodge where Mick Jagger once rented out the whole place for his family. It is right on the way to Heath River Wildlife Center. If you had a whole day, you could do the canopy walk at prime time--early morning and/or late afternoon. There is plenty to enjoy on the grounds too, such as agoutis (attractive rodents) and bird life, or take a boat trip.

 

I was pleased when this canopy walk got added unexpectedly through the help of Green Tracks just weeks before departure because, despite all the cool things in my trip, it had lacked a canopy walk.

 

Elzabet, the Reserva naturalist, guided us on our trail/canopy walk, from 11:20 am-12:40 pm. After some Russet-backed Oropendulas on their nests, we encountered five busy Saddleback Tamarins at close range.

 

Saddleback Tamarin

 

We climbed up numerous flights of wooden stairs with railings to reach the rope bridge walkways. Proceeding one at a time on the swaying rope bridges, we traversed all seven of them. There was a little bounciness, but nothing scary. We saw one lizard and a Squirrel Cuckoo in the canopy. Not much going on midday, but the canopy walk was interesting and fun.

 

 

Back on solid ground, we saw a White-fronted Toucan and watched some agoutis that hung around the Brazil nut cracking station. Great views of these normally shy rodents!

 

 

Agouti

 

After lunch, it was time to leave Reserva Amazonica and board IncaNatura’s motorized dugout canoe with the other guests, who had just arrived from the airport, and continue 4.5 hours on the river trip to Heath River Wildlife Center.

 

We met Oscar, our InkaNatura guide, one of the finest guides/naturalists I’ve had anywhere. Skimmers were out and about early in the trip on the Madre de Dios River. No need to look for pink dolphins, as none reside in the rivers in this part of Peru.

 

There was a Bolivian border stop that two of us also used as a bathroom stop. Passport stamping was optional. No visas required. HRWC is actually in Bolivia.

 

Bolivian border stop, as viewed from the river

 

After about 2.5 hours, we turned onto Heath River.

 

 

When it got dark, Oscar and a crew member spotlighted a few caiman and two families of capybaras darting from the bank into the thicket. We arrived at Heath River Wildlife Center about 7:15 pm. No electricity in the rooms, just candles. Lighters are used, not matches, so I needed lighter lessons. I had never “flicked a Bic” before. (Remember that ad?) Such a sheltered life.

 

Another lesson to be learned is to keep all luggage zipped to deter insects from taking refuge inside. Even unzipped bumbags/fanny packs/ditty bags/waist bags were inviting to cucaracha residents who had inhabited the general region long before touristas came calling. I was fortunate to have a small room-toad who enjoyed basking in candle light. S/he liked to be talked to but tolerated no physical contact.

 

My room toad who enjoyed the romantic atmosphere of candlelight

 

Mosquito netting over the bed offered a formidable barrier between any and all the jungle inhabitants and us human visitors.

Edited October 14, 2012 by Atravelynn

[Vlad the Impala]

I'm really enjoying this trip report. Like other's it's bringing back some great memories of my own visit to Peru. Unfortunaely mine was before the time of digital cameras, so I'm drooling over sem of the photos you captured.

[Atravelynn]

I know that feeling of wanting to return to all the places you visited before digital or before you had a decent camera. Thanks for popping in here and freshening things up with the aerosol can. Smells better already. If you ever change your avatar, this comment will make it appear I have lost my marbles.

[Atravelynn]

Aug 17

Our first outing was the big attraction of Heath—the macaw and parrot clay lick. Depart lodge 5:40 am, 10-minute motorized dugout canoe trip, arrive at hide/blind at 5:55 am to find several parrots and one pair of Red and Green Macaws on the trees above the clay lick. Then wait. There is a western toilet behind a closed door in the hide/blind to make the wait more comfortable.

 

7:00 am in come the parrots! Amazon Mealy, Yellow crowned, Blue headed, and Chestnut Fronted Macaws. 7:12 all parrots fly off. Whoosh! Next round is the Peach-fronted parrots, but they sneak into the bushy parts of the bluff and are not easily viewed.

 

At 7:30 am a dozen or so Red and Green Macaws alight in the trees along the bank. At 8:03 the macaws all take to the clay cliffs. For 11 minutes they put on a tremendous bird show, and then they all fly off at 8:14, leaving the clay lick barren. But what a show it was! There were seven guests in the hide/blind and we all were thrilled with our morning. Back to the lodge for breakfast.

 

10:00-11:30 am was a jungle walk for 5 participants. A Bluish-fronted Jacamar was the highlight. (bird list at end of report)

 

 

 

 

Edited October 14, 2012 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

 

 

Edited October 14, 2012 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

 

Edited October 14, 2012 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

3:30-7:15 pm Took the motorized canoe, walked in the jungle, then took a paddle canoe for a beautiful and peaceful river excursion, seeing Tiger Herons, a Cocoi Heron, Donacobius, and Gray Brocket Deer.

At night we walked back through the jungle to find rain frogs and spiders.

 

Rufescent Tiger Heron

 

8:45-10:15 pm Night walk with 4 participants to a small clay lick pit. A tapir was enjoying the muddy clay when we arrived and remained undisturbed for 30 minutes of quiet viewing. A record viewing time for Oscar! And of course for us. Photos taken when the spotlight was not right on the tapir turned out best for me.

 

 

A tapir at the Heath River Wildlife Center claylick

[ovenbird]

Lynn, I'm reading your trip report and viewing your pics with much interest as we've not yet been to Peru. I think it's just moved up a few places on our "to do" list! The tapirs are so black with longer snouts compared to the pinkish grey ones we saw at Rio Cristalino in Brazil. Do you know if these are different species or just variations on a theme?

[Atravelynn]

Ovenbird, nice to "run into" you again. The longer snout may be due to how the tapir was posing in the bottom photo. You probably saw the Brazilian Tapir and I probably saw the Baird's Tapir. The Baird's is a little darker I think. Should any tapir experts be cruising by, please feel free to expound or correct me.

 

That darn to-do list can go so long it stretches across the living room. If only the piles of $100 bills did too.

 

Where were you last?

 

Aug 18

It was only me going to the clay lick on Morning #2. Boat Captain Jesus took me while the other guests all went to climb the tower. If there had been a Harpy Eagle nest in view from the tower, I might have climbed too. There was not. I asked. Unlike the Reserva Amazonica canopy walk, that was not scary and most anyone could do it, the tower was more challenging. It was straight up and climbers wore a safety harness. Good arm strength as well as leg strength was needed (per the climbers’ accounts) to get to the top. I talked with a retired couple that arrived the day before I left that had come to HRWC primarily to do the tower climb.

 

The second parrot and macaw clay lick with the whole hide/blind for just Captain Jesus and me went like this:

 

Arrival at the Heath River Wildlife Center claylick hide/blind before the birds..............................................Inside the hide/blind, western toilet is behind the wall to the right of the parrot poster

 

 

5:58-6:20 The first round of parrots plus the Chestnut-fronted Macaws flew in, appearing only minutes after our arrival. Something spooked them briefly, but they all returned at 6:22 and stayed until 6:35.

 

 

Motion in the thicker brush was the result of the sneaky Peach Fronted Parrots and a few birds were visible.

 

Not a single macaw in sight until 8:05. Then a few started to fly into the tree tops, and many more followed. At 8:20 and then again 8:35 two motorized canoes with fishermen came by, which frightened the macaws off of their trees, but they came back and at 8:40 the first macaws were on the clay banks. The stayed until 8:50 and then scattered, only to do a loop and immediately return, remaining until 9:00 am. Then in a flash they flew off.

 

 

 

When counting, we came up with about 100 parrots and 60 macaws. Even if you don’t really care for birds, this is a colorful spectacle! Truly a unique world class phenomena!

 

The bird behavior these two days differed slightly but was typical of what to expect. They could be counted on to arrive in the morning during the dry months, about June-Oct, barring storms or lurking predators. Once they leave en masse (and don’t just loop around) the flocks do not return again later in the day. In the wet months, the birds are less predictable and might arrive in a flock or as individuals anytime between morning and afternoon.

 

 

 

 

I asked why the birds came to the same spot all the time when there were many open, unobstructed clay cliffs in the area. The answer was that these are social creatures that like to congregate so picking the same place means they’ll all be together. It is the same reason the birds still come to the clay lick in the wet season when the toxin removal qualities of the clay are not a necessity because there is a greater variety of non-toxic fruit for the birds. They just like to get together at a common,

well-known spot.

 

Many available clay banks along the river, but the birds return to their favorite hangouts.

 

If you did a private trip on your own schedule, you stay longer and have more visits to the clay lick. It would be fascinating to watch a week’s worth of flocks on the clay lick.

 

 

Edited October 14, 2012 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

10:00 – 11:30 am walk for 5 participants produced a nice view of a Howler and a sounder of White Lipped Peccaries crossing our path. Oscar explained that peccaries are a good indication of a pristine habitat because when people are around they hunt and kill the tasty peccaries, reducing their numbers and making the peccaries fearful of being anywhere near human scent or activity.

Howler Monkey.......................................................................................................................Peccary on the run

 

3:30 – 7:15 pm - about a 2.5 mile walk out of the jungle and into the savanna-like pampas and up into a tree house to watch the Blue and Gold Macaws return to their roosts for the night. Then a 2.5 mile night jungle walk back. We saw Squirrel Monkeys and a distant Spider Monkey (our only one) and flushed several Wild Turkeys.

 

Pampas

 

The butterflies sunning themselves on the river banks in front of the lodge were captivating and competed for my time lounging in the hammocks. The grounds, atmosphere, comfortable tents & main lodge, good food, and attentive staff made Heath River Wildlife Center an outstanding jungle retreat.

Edited October 14, 2012 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

 

Aug 19

A very early 5:20 am departure, which is typical. When it became light, some Skimmers were visible. At 10:50 am we arrived at Sandoval Lake. We were now down to 3 participants, and we began the 2-mile, hike to the lodge. We spotted a White-necked Jacobin Hummingbird enroute. Boarded a paddle canoe for the 45 minute trip on the lake to the lodge and docked at 12:30 pm, where we were greeted by the ever present and every changing arrangement of Sidenecked Turtles sunning on a nearby log.

 

4:30 -7:30 pm paddle canoe for 3 participants-First Hoatzin sightings of many. I always wanted to see one and Sandoval Lake is Hoatzin Central! One Capuchin monkey and many Squirrel Monkeys. Black Caiman heads spotlighted in the dark made for ominous photos.

 

Squirrel Monkey.............................................................................................................................Caiman during the day........................................................................................................................................................and at night

 

Hoatzin

 

The Hoatzin

This odd bird is the sole member of its Order: Opisthocomiformes, Family: Opisthocomidae, Genus: Opisthocomus, and Species: Hoatzin. It has more than one stomach, vaguely similar to a cow. It stinks with reptilian odor. It lives near water, but is not a water bird. The chicks have two claws on the end of their wings, probably to assist in gripping branches. They make grunting and growling sounds. Despite their many quirks and oddities, Hoatzins are attractive and have found success in their niche. Kinda like Tom Cruise.

 

Hoatzin

Edited October 14, 2012 by Atravelynn