Namibia 2012

[Jochen]

What about it, Sverker?

 

I saw it, and stayed near it (you can see it from Frans Indongo and even better from CCF). But we didn't have time visit it.

[Sverker]

... we didn't have time visit it.

When I made a trip plan some time ago, I included Waterberg, and hoped to get your impressions of the place.

 

Anyway, thank you for a great trip report.

[Jochen]

Ah OK.

 

Well FWIW the little impression I got was that it was all farms around it. Most regular farms, but intermixed with places like Frans Indongo. And then CCF of course. Laurie also told me the that at the other side of the mountain there's a lot of farmers who absolutely hate cheetah.

[Atravelynn]

Hoodia Desert Lodge

 

 

Actually, I should let you guys know a bit more of this place. You see, when I was composing my itinerary, and looking at Sossusvlei, I didn't like the places I found. Basically, you have two options:

- Stay in a lodge in or near Sesriem. This is where are the people stay who think that you absolutely need to stay as close to the gate as possible, to get on that one particular dune ("dune 7" or something like that), to see the sun come up ...and as a consequence they trample over each other trying to get on top of that dune, and in the meantime miss plenty of other good opportunities for good shots. Most lodges in Sesriem look OK, and are affordable, but the view isn't much, and most are close to the road.

- Stay in a lodge further away, in one of the valleys nearby. Typically, these lodges either are located away from the crowds, have stunning views, and they are rather expensive. Or they are more affordable, but then right next to the road again.

 

So I asked the opinion of Sun Safaris (Celeste) and she said: "Hoodia! You're gonna like the place ...a lot!"

 

 

The age old dilemma. The Sesriem Camp Site was my solution if I go.

 

Thanks for the info. Never heard of Hoodia Desert Lodge. Seems like a great option.

Edited January 13, 2013 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

... we didn't have time visit it.

When I made a trip plan some time ago, I included Waterberg, and hoped to get your impressions of the place.

 

Anyway, thank you for a great trip report.

 

I'm thinking I won't have time to get from Etosha to my flight in the same day and will have to stay in Waterberg. Sverker and I have similar hopes. Maybe as I continue through your report, I'll realize Etosha to Windhoek for a 3pm flight is ok.

 

Your desert and giant dune shots are classic! About what time did you photograph those giant red hills? Were you still up about 4 am? Thanks.

[Jochen]

Hey Lynn,

 

I would spend at least one night near Waterberg if I were you. CCF is too good to skip.

[Jochen]

The dune shots are taken around 6-7AM in the morning. I think we left the lodge at 5:30 or something. It was an early morning, but nothing we're not used to yet (compared to morning game drives in private reserves).

 

I guess it also depends on the season whether or not you have to rise real early.

[Atravelynn]

Thanks for the answers to my specific questions. There are more to follows.

 

Your Sossusvlei tips are wonderful. It really makes sense to stay 3 nights.

 

Visiting Namib Naukluft midday is a great idea. If you did not do that, what other options are there for that time frame? I would think dune viewing is about over by 10:00. Even the dead-tree-in-cracked-and red-sand viewing would be over about that time. Correct me if I am wrong.

 

If you are going back for sunset views of the dunes, I would think departure would not take place until 3pm. So middle of the day is open. Is it ungodly hot then, though? The places you visited in Namib Naukluft seemed to be shaded and cool from the photos.

 

Did you do sunset dune viewing? If so, how was that or if not why did you opt out?

 

Nice job stitching the Lourie tail. I never would have known. The Cape Eagle Owl is a standout in that unusual setting.

 

When you write: "Very weird observation; most visitors stay at the beginning of deadvlei. While the nicest views are at the back, where you can single out a tree for your shot. Well, their loss!"

 

Is there an entrance to Deadvlei and most people don't venture further beyond that? Maybe because it is so hot and they are uncomfortable?

 

Looking forward to reading your Part 3.

[Jochen]

Hey Lynn,

 

It's hot over noon, but not that hot. You can go dune viewing all day, but it's the most beautiful in the evening and in the morning, as then the shadows give much nicer contrasts. Deadvlei is best kept for when the sun is high up in the sky already. In our case I think we were there somewhere around 10AM, and left 11:30AM.

 

There's only one entrance to deadvlei, and I don't know why most people stayed at the beginning. It's as if most people just take a few general shots, or shots with their whole group in, and then they go. Come to think of it; the only people going to the end (just 2 mins of walking!) and singling out individual trees for their shot all had very good camera gear. Perhaps only real foto pro's or -amateurs know about the type of shots you can get there.

It's certainly not because of the heat that they didn't all go to the end: it takes about 15-20 mins of walking on sand to get to deadvlei, and only 2 mins walking on hard crusted mud to get from the beginning of the pan to the end.

 

We did not do sunset viewing, as the trip provided by Dunia had a fixed itinerary and takes you out of the reserve by 1:30PM to have lunch under a tree in the middle of nowhere, and then afterwards you go to Sesriem Canyon. You're back at the lodge at around 3:30-4PM. But to be honest at that point we'd had enough. it had been a very long day.

 

If you don't do Namib Naukluft, then the only other option is Sossusvlei again. You can visit it twice I suppose, if you're really into landscape photography for example. But I would make sure not to do exactly the same as the day before then. For example; opt for a balloon ride in the morning, and dune viewing in the afternoon (sunset). But it would be a shame to miss Namib Naukluft though.

 

Almost forgot; one other thing you can do is do a scenic flight by small plane.

 

Ciao,

 

J.

[Atravelynn]

Maybe the Deadvlei visitors just wanted to see it, snap a photo, and move on. Nothing wrong with that and it makes things less crowded for those who want to linger.

 

Thanks for all the info and photos that make me want to go to Namibia soon.

[Atravelynn]

I took your advice on another thread about planning trips and Namibia and checked out your Grootberg outings. How many nights at Grootberg Lodge and in Damaraland for you?

[FlyTraveler]

@@Jochen - great trip report and I also love your photography. Namibia is so beautiful... What kind of Canon body and lenses are you using?

[Jochen]

5D / 5D / 5DMkIII

70-200mm IS-L F2.8

17-40mm L F4

400mm L F5.6

 

I actually don't know if I already had my MkIII then.

[FlyTraveler]

5D / 5D / 5DMkIII

70-200mm IS-L F2.8

17-40mm L F4

400mm L F5.6

 

I actually don't know if I already had my MkIII then.

This is a serious collection. Once again - great photography, bravo!

[Jochen]

Apart from the 70-200 it's all 2nd hand stuff.

 

You would be surprised how many gearheads put the newest model under their Christmas tree every year, even though the previous model worked perfectly well (for the shots they took of their cat, lol).

[Jaycees2012]

@@Jochen

 

Loved the TR - we're planning a trip to Southern Namibia soon so it was good to read some of your tips. Shame about the lack of photos though - it sounds like you had some really good ones - but by the time we found this TR it looks like all of the links to the external site with the photos were broken so nothing was displayed.