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On the last morning we went out early, in very good light Some sort of mouse Brown-hooded Kingfisher African Hoopoe   We then headed off to our next destination – a long drive to Mountain Zebra National Park

Next day there was quite a bit of rain in the morning – we still went out and walked around the grounds of the park, but we decided not to do the river trip. Bushbuck with baby Amethyst Sunbird (male) and a flashy throated female Greater Double-collared Sunbird and the spectacular Knysna Turaco in the rain (there wer a few of these about)   Cape Weaver preparing weaving materials

After more driving (and some roadworks) we stopped at Hartenbos for a good lunch (Piza e Vino), and dropped into Pick n Pay to top up our shopping. Then we headed to Wilderness and the Ebb and Flow Camp. We had booked this through the SANParks website (straightforward) https://www.sanparks.org/parks/garden-route/camps/wilderness-ebb-and-flow   We had visited the park on our previous visit to the park, but didn’t stay overnight. We were pleased that this time we decided to stay. We were staying in a very nice Log Cabin Kitchen View from balcony (Sky very grey!)   We had time to wander around the grounds in the late afternoon, but the light wasn’t great. Black-headed Oriole Rock Martin resting on our cabin Swee Waxbill on the roof of the cabin next door

Our next spot after DeHoop was Ebb and Flow at Wilderness   We drove up the gravel road from DeHoop. On the way we saw Spotted Thick-knee   MrsQ spotted these as she was driving. They were on my side of the car. This is a crop from a shot at 400mm. People on the Big Year have already seen this and were impressed by her spotting ability! The sort of thing I can spot (Karoo Scrub-robin)   We reached the main road and stopped for coffee (And cake) at Coffee Blue on the edge of Heidleberg. A very nice place to break the journey. One the good things about trip was a number of good places to stop for coffee and food. In addition the people were always very friendly.  

Yay!!! This is what swams of people go all the way to Ndutu to see! 

The next bits are of a sighting very special to me.     The lions were less than 10 mins away.    And I was rooting for this little one,   like it was my own.    Wobbly legs,   and face-plants,   and tears,   and cheers.            

From out of the corner of his eye,   to the right.......my boyfriend says quietly,    "hey,   that one's giving birth right there".        We look just in time.          Camera settings,   not right.     But I'm including the "plunk" image,    just because it is such an amazing memory for me.      We spend the next 10 or so minutes,    watching this little wet blob,   stretch,   and breathe,    and meet its Mama,    and some Aunties,   and cousins,    and try,   and try,    and try again to get up and take first steps.    

Pom Pom.       For me.......this feels like      "coming home",   even though I've only been there once before.        The others in my group are,   of course quite sad to have been leaving Lagoon Camp,    as their experience there exceeded any and all expectations.    And Spencer was a "dream guide".      We are picked up at the airstrip by our new guide,  Gofa and tracker Tango.     Gofa asks the group if they have any special interests - and I defer to "the group".     Sil mentions,    that she hasn't seen one of the big,  bull elephants yet.    All the males,   have so far been part of herds....and not solo yet.       And Gofa,   says......sure!   If we see one,   we will cautiously approach,   and look at behaviour.   We generally don't "track".......but if we come across.....we will try to give you a good sighting,   and let's hope!          (And that's the magic of just throwing things out to the universe........sometimes wishes come true)         When we first arrive:   Off the deck.       I am glad to see there is even just a smidge of water........I wasn't certain,   given the lack of rain,   what we would find.    The water hole is just to the right of this scene.             We settle into our "afternoon siesta mode".      And look who wanders into view?!!!!             I ask the manager,   Onks,     just exactly how far I am allowed to go into the open area.     (The last time I was there,    the water hole was larger,   and I was allowed to venture as far as "the stick").         Onks says   "Absolutely Not".    "Not an option".      "Just 3 days ago,   we all had a  fabulous camp sighting.     A leopard was up in that tree right there".           Wait,   what??  You mean that tree there?   The tree shading MY tent deck??     "Yes".       Gofa takes me to the prints of both the leopard,  (and the hyena)  right on my tent path,   and tells the tale.                   Okay.......I guess that settles it.    I will behave,  and stay on the deck.    The afternoon game drive commences.........and Dang it!!     Offroading here,    is some seriously bumpy experience!!             And........I wouldn't normally post about giraffes.     I DO love seeing them.......(but find them incredibly difficult to photograph ),    and I also think of them,   like....... 'stuff we see,   on the way to "_________".      But this little nuclear family,    was just too cute!!      To sit,   and watch the dynamics was great.      We shut off the truck....... and...... the baby,   was truly curious about us!     Baby and Mama,   get closer and closer....... and reach out,   to investigate US.   Leaning in and forward,  to see better into the truck,   as if to figure out if we were safe,  or not.        Dad.......is only concerned with eating lol.                       Early next morning,   and we are hitting the hyena den,   to hopefully see some (cubs?   pups?)   And we are rewarded.      The first to emerge,   is just wee.    I have NO idea how old,    but it was certainly much younger than I have ever seen.      And then,   it disappears.      But.......beside, ........ an older cub emerges!   We are likely,   Gofa explains,   witnessing the "babysitter",    as the rest of the clan isn't back yet.                We leave the den,   and come across quite a herd (for me),   of wildebeest,   complete with young ones.      And with that......... I will leave it for now.......as this next sighting deserves its own post.    (and not to give anything away.......it was the most amazing thing i've seen)    

Day 8 22nd September 2024   We had breakfast and left for the airport to catch our flight to Alta Floresta at 11:35. We got through to the gate….and waited….and waited…Our flight was delayed…. So we waited some more… but then the news we’d been dreading came. Our flight was cancelled and the next flight was scheduled for two days’ time. The reason, those pesky bush fires obscuring the approach to Alta Floresta. Well better safe than sorry! Disappointed, we returned to the airport hotel to check in with the head office and sort an alternative plan. It took a while so we got some lunch at the airport and eventually a car was sent to take us to another place about 4 ½ hours away from Cuiaba which we were told had an “Amazon influence” and where we could potentially see some “interesting monkeys” and a rare tanager but no chance of Harpy Eagles.    We spent the remainder of the afternoon heading to Jardim Amazonia: https://www.jardimamazonia.com/ passing a rather large bushfire en route. It was dark when we arrived and we very nearly hit a tapir on the way into the reserve. Jardim Amazonia is a charming lodge, and a private nature reserve, located 300 km north of Cuiaba, in the centre of Mato Grosso, in the extreme south of the Amazon basin. The pioneering work at Jardim da Amazônia has resulted in the preservation of a large area of pristine primary Amazon rainforest. Nature devotees Almor and Carmelita Zanchet invested in a fish farming laboratory and birdwatching activity in 1997, making this site an important ecological sanctuary. This large piece of forest lies in the ecotone between the Cerrado and the Amazon forest. The trees are much smaller, making it easier to watch the canopy bird species, many of which are Amazonian specialities. The lodge itself is surrounded by natural wetlands and man-made ponds. The areas boasts and impressive list of 562 bird species. There is a natural bathing pool which I made use of during my stay there.      IMG_20240922_190506 bushfire by Jo Dale, on Flickr   I have no other photos from this day as we arrived late and didn’t do a night walk or anything. 

Before we  left for Cuiaba we did some birding around the Ocelot studio and surrounds. Birds seen included  Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant,  Rusty-backed Spinetail, Yellow-bellied Elaenia,  Fuscous flycatcher and Short-crested Flycatcher. We also found a troop of Azara’s Capuchins.    IMG_20240921_101127 Viewing stadium by Jo Dale, on Flickr   IMG_20240921_101150 ocelot studio by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9218384 Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9218423 Rusty-backed Spinetail by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9218453   Yellow-bellied Elaenia by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9218455 Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9218506Azaras's capuchin or hooded capuchin (Sapajus cay) by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9218528Azaras's capuchin or hooded capuchin (Sapajus cay) by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9218540Azaras's capuchin or hooded capuchin (Sapajus cay) by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9218546Azaras's capuchin or hooded capuchin (Sapajus cay) by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9218563Azaras's capuchin or hooded capuchin (Sapajus cay) by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9218576 Fuscous flycatcher by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9218585  Short-crested Flycatcher by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9218590   Short-crested Flycatcher by Jo Dale, on Flickr   Sadly it was soon time to leave the wonders of the Pantanal behind and return to Cuiaba in readiness for our flight to the Amazon the next day. We spent the night back at the Amazon Aeroporto Hotel.   IMG_20240922_132356  bigtooth river stingray or Tocantins River ray in indoor pond Amazon Aeroporto Hotel Cuiaba by Jo Dale, on Flickr   IMG_20240922_132400   bigtooth river stingray or Tocantins River ray in indoor pond Amazon Aeroporto Hotel Cuiaba by Jo Dale, on Flickr

I was delighted when a Tayra came down to the river to drink, offering superb views!   When it moved off, we carried on.   P9217857 Tayra by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217932 Tayra by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217952 Tayra by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217947 Tayra by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217951 Tayra by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217983 Tayra by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217986 Tayra by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217997 Tayra by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9218030 Tayra by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9218039 Tayra by Jo Dale, on Flickr   A pair of Golden-collared Macaws were a new species for me as they called raucously flying down the river.   P9218088 Golden-collared macaw by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9218131 Chaco chachalaca by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9218163 Golden-collared macaw by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9218177 Golden-collared macaw by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9218209 Black-collared Hawk by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9218216 Black-collared Hawk by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9218256 Amazon Kingfisher by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9218279 Amazon Kingfisher by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9218292 Amazon Kingfisher by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9218298 Rufescent Tiger Heron by Jo Dale, on Flickr   A Toco Toucan was also looking for an early morning drink on the riverbank.   P9218310 Toco Toucan by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9218313 Toco Toucan by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9218332 Toco Toucan by Jo Dale, on Flickr   A Red Brocket Deer was observed on the way back. It had been a lovely little sojourn on the river.    P9218344 Red Brocket deer by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9218348 Yacare Caiman by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9218359 Great Egret by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9218374 Marsh Deer by Jo Dale, on Flickr

The river itself was very low at this time of year so it was rather difficult to navigate. However it proved to be a fruitful morning.  Black-backed Water Tyrants, Green Ibis and Limpkin posed nicely. We spotted an Azara’s Agouti feeding in the sunshine. A pair of Blue-throated Piping Guan were having a set-to over some imagined slight.    P9217583 Black-backed water tyrant by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217585 Black-backed water tyrant by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217596 Green Ibis by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217608 Limpkin by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217630 Azara's Agouti by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217644 Roadside Hawk by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217668 Great Kiskadee by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217678 Great Kiskadee by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217695 Blue-throated piping guan by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217706 Blue-throated piping guan by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217728 Blue-throated piping guan by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217734 Blue-throated piping guan by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217747  Blue-throated piping guan by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217755 Striated Heron by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217808 Wattled Jacana by Jo Dale, on Flickr

Day 7 21st September 2024   We took a dawn walk up to the top of the Jabiru platform. This was not for the faint hearted as it is very high! But it does put you at eye level with the nesting Jabirus which is quite a sight as well as the resident Monk Parakeets. I also got a great view of the lodge from up there. Eric didn’t stay as long and headed back down to terra firma.     P9217328 Tropical Kingbird by Jo Dale, on Flickr   IMG_20240921_054116 by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217342 White-throated Piping-Guan by Jo Dale, on Flickr   IMG_20240921_055413 by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217356 Hazy sky by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217358 Jabiru Nest by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217361 Jabiru Nest by Jo Dale, on Flickr   IMG_20240921_060336 by Jo Dale, on Flickr   IMG_20240921_060422 by Jo Dale, on Flickr   IMG_20240921_060444 by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217366 Monk Parakeet by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217371 View from the Jabiru tower by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217387 View from the Jabiru tower Eric and Fito by Jo Dale, on Flickr   IMG_20240921_061550 by Jo Dale, on Flickr   IMG_20240921_061559 by Jo Dale, on Flickr   Bare-faced Curassow, purplish Jays and Chestnut-bellied Guans were feeding around the lodge and we briefly glimpsed a Tapir near the waterhole. We didn’t even have to leave our room to see some of the local fauna in the shape of the “bathroom frogs”. These little frogs don’t do any harm and we found a few of them in the bathroom.    P9217396  Bare-faced Curassow by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217426 Bare-faced Curassow by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217443 Bare-faced Curassow by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217456 South American tapir (also called the Brazilian tapir or lowland tapir) by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217482 Bathroom tree frog by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217489 Purplish Jay by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217492 Purplish Jay by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217498 Purplish Jay by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217505 chestnut-bellied guan by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217507 chestnut-bellied guan by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217510 Red-crested Cardinal by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9217520 Fork-tailed Flycatcher by Jo Dale, on Flickr   After breakfast we were taken by safari truck just down the road to near Mato Grosso hotel where  we boarded a boat to explore the river and look for sungrebes. On the way we spotted a Marsh Deer who was missing an antler.    P9217562 Marsh Deer by Jo Dale, on Flickr  

We got the boat back to where we’d left the car and headed off back on the dry and dusty road to Southwild Pantanal Lodge (formerly Santa Teresa).  I don’t recall that we stopped to photograph much en route. However we were in for a treat when we arrived at the lodge as a young Tapir was drinking at the waterhole as we entered.   P9206407 South American tapir (also called the Brazilian tapir or lowland tapir) by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9206446 South American tapir (also called the Brazilian tapir or lowland tapir) by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9206474 South American tapir (also called the Brazilian tapir or lowland tapir) by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9206480 South American tapir (also called the Brazilian tapir or lowland tapir) by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9206502 South American tapir (also called the Brazilian tapir or lowland tapir) by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9206510 South American tapir (also called the Brazilian tapir or lowland tapir) by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9206511 Great Black Hawk by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9206524 Solitary black Cacique by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9206534 Purplish Jay by Jo Dale, on Flickr   After watching for a short while we carried on to get checked in to ensure we would be in time for the Ocelot hide that evening. The hide set up is designed to provide excellent photo opportunities for this species. We were some of the first people to arrive so we sat ourselves in the front row of the tiered seating area next to some other photographers. We were advised to be very quiet as the ocelot can be quite sensitive to noise.     The stadium began to fill up with some groups of tourists who didn’t seem to have got that particular memo, which made for a rather nervous wait for us. The local guide mimed what he would do to attract the Ocelot to the studio, basically the cats wait in the shadows and once spotted by the guide are encouraged to enter the viewing area by the guide first throwing small pieces of meat into the wooded surrounds. As the cat draws closer, he then places more meat onto the branches to encourage the cat to climb, allowing onlookers to get some stunning shots. This was very different to the set up in the South Pantanal at Hotel San Francisco where we went out both during the day and evening on game drives and spotlit for Ocelots, that felt like a far more natural way to see Ocelots but I definitely got clearer pictures from SWP.   The Ocelot arrived around 1900 and was present for about 40 minutes.   P9206657_01  Ocelot by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9206683_01 Ocelot by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9206755_01 Ocelot by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9206800_01 Ocelot by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9206877_01 Ocelot by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9206881_01 Ocelot by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9206931_01 Ocelot by Jo Dale, on Flickr   Halfway through the sighting the ocelot briefly retreated and a lot of the tourists got up to leave (and were quite noisy in doing so). We thought our chances of further activity had been scuppered but the cat came back after the local guide placed another round of food.    P9206981_01 How to attract an Ocelot by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9206990_01  Ocelot waiting for food by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9207003_01 Ocelot by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9207007_01 Ocelot by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9207019_02 Ocelot by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9207045_01 Ocelot by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9207054_01 Ocelot by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9207051_01 Ocelot by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9207063_01 Ocelot by Jo Dale, on Flickr   At 1940 he told everyone the show was over, but just as I was packing up Eric started swearing and reaching for his camera. A Crab-eating Fox had entered the studio. And then the Ocelot came back, hissing angrily at the fox! We watched them both for a further ten minutes, at which point they’d cleared out the studio of food and melted back into the forest. It was time to leave and have some dinner back at the lodge.        P9207087_01 Crab-eating Fox by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9207121_01 Ocelot by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9207121_02 Ocelot by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9207128_01 Ocelot by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9207128_02 Ocelot by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9207130_01 Ocelot by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9207146_01 Ocelot by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9207157_01 Ocelot by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9207158_01 Ocelot by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9207168_01 Ocelot by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9207168_02 Ocelot by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9207204_01 Ocelot by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9207206_02 Ocelot by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9207223_01 Ocelot and Crab-eating Fox by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9207248_01 Ocelot and Crab-eating Fox by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9207255_01 Crab-eating Fox by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9207280_01  Crab-eating Fox by Jo Dale, on Flickr   [url=https://flic.kr/p/2qxEw6d ]P9207296_01  Crab-eating Fox[/url] by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9207312 Crab-eating Fox by Jo Dale, on Flickr   P9207322_01 Crab-eating Fox by Jo Dale, on Flickr

Thanks both, yes they were really special sightings for sure!