Brazil: A Tale of Two Trips, 2016 and 2018

[Alexander33]

Some of the jaguars we found were not as habituated as others, and in those instances, our time with them was more fleeting.

 

The Stealthy Male

 

Early one morning, just as the sun was starting to rise, we spotted this handsome male emerge from the thicket.

 

 

 

 

 

He didn’t appear to appreciate our intrusion, and quickly retreated back into the dense vegetation.

 

[Alexander33]

The Lone Ranger

 

Although most of our jaguar sightings occurred along the main Cuiabá and Piquiri Rivers, there are many interconnected smaller rivers and tributaries traversing the area.  These quiet refuges, with their shallow waters and close banks on either side, offered intimate experiences with some of the smaller or shyer species: kingfishers, river otters, howler monkeys.

 

One morning, with a dearth of jaguar reports, we went deep into the Park, far from any other tourists, to a small river called the Rio Jofre.  As we wound our way through branches overhanging the water, Tito spied a blue-crowned trogon, and I struggled in vain in my efforts to get a decent photo of what was quickly becoming my arch-nemesis bird.

 

Better, but still not quite what I was after.

 

 

 

Tito did his best to reposition the boat each time the bird moved to another branch, and I did my best to maintain my attention on the bird’s location, and not on the movement I spied in the water further up the river.

 

When at last I conceded defeat to the trogon one more time, I looked through my lens at the lump in the water ahead of us.

 

“What is that?” I asked.

 

Tito lifted his binoculars.  “Oh, my God!”

 

It was a jaguar, with only its head poking above the water.  It had warily been eyeing us the whole time.

 

 

 

Vanderlei pulled out an old, rusty bayonet.  Tito caught my expression in return.  “The jaguars in this area aren’t used to seeing humans,” he explained.  “When the river is narrow like this, they can turn aggressive, and the fishermen are scared of them.”

 

But, bayonet notwithstanding, Vanderlei clearly was as surprised and entranced as we were, and he gingerly steered the boat in a way that we could get a closer look without spooking the animal. 

 

As we approached, from the waters arose a massive male jaguar, giving us a look of irritation in response to our audacious trespass into his territory.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

These were the only shots we could get, as he was in no mood to linger. 

 

Although this was a very brief sighting, it was also perhaps our most precious one: a largely unhabituated male jaguar that neither Tito nor Vanderlei had ever seen before, and the sighting of him in this quiet, remote waterway was ours, and ours alone.

 

 

[Botswanadreams]

Beautiful Jaguars. Thanks for the sheering.  

[Alexander33]

@Botswanadreams

 

Thanks.  More to come.....  

[xelas]

What to say ... all those jaguars, and birds, ... stuff to dream about.

[Zim Girl]

Fabulous jaguar sightings.

The shots of the male in the water are wonderful.

[lmSA84]

Incredible photos and experience. Thanks for sharing. I’m very jealous of the beautiful clarity of some of the photos you have captured 

[Alexander33]

@xelas

@Zim Girl

@lmSA84

 

Thank you for your kind comments.  The opportunity to see jaguars, wild and in their natural habitat, truly was thrilling and an absolute privilege. 

 

And, as you are about to see, I just couldn't get my fill of them!

[Alexander33]

The Two Lovebirds

 

Our boat was anchored in front of an embankment, at the edge of which an old male jaguar snoozed in the deep shade of a tall tree in the heat of mid-afternoon, when Tito announced that two jaguars had been spotted nearby.  I usually am loathe to leave a sighting in hopes of finding a better one – “A bird in the hand is worth two in the bush,” and that sort of thing.  But, on this occasion, Tito expressed a polite sense of urgency, and since the old guy didn’t look like he was about to stir any time soon, I acquiesced.

 

I figured we were after the Two Brothers again, and so I didn’t think too much about it when we came upon a pair of jaguars swimming in the water and cavorting lightly on the beach, before scampering into the dense vegetation nearby.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We waited awhile, and finally they emerged again…..

 

 

 

 

 

…..and dispelled any notion I might have had that these were the Two Brothers.

 

 

 

 

 

They again took to the water, rounding a bend in the river.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Alexander33]

We followed them, and it wasn’t long before they alighted on another beach, this one with a tall sand dune overlooking the water.

 

 

 

When they were “in the mood,” they would disappear from sight into the vegetation behind and below the dune, and the only way we knew they were still there was from the snarling and growling that occasionally emanated from the greenery.

 

When they were ready for a break, they’d come back out onto the dune and make an appearance for us.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The male was especially active.  First, he’d survey his territory from the crest of the dune.  Then, just to make sure there was no mistaking who was in charge here, he’d amble down from the dune, walk along the water, and mark his territory.  All this activity produced quite a thirst, so he’d pause for a refreshing drink.  And then he’d climb the dune, lie back down, survey his land, and repeat the process all over again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We stayed with these two for over an hour, until the sun began to set and the mosquitoes began to emerge.  This had been such a high-quality sighting, and I hated to depart, but knew, at the same time, we’d see nothing in the darkness.

 

As if to make up for the disappointment in having to leave, on the way back we encountered a colony of greater fishing bats hunting over the river, and Tito had Vanderlei stop the boat so that we could try for some photos of them against the sunset. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I managed these three shots out of about 75.  If you think hummingbirds are challenging…….

 

 

 

[Alexander33]

The next morning, Tito spied The Lovebirds again on another part of the river.  They had covered quite a bit of territory during the night.  The setting wasn’t the best, but, for a while at least, we had the sighting to ourselves, and this time I managed to capture the female pausing for a drink.

 

 

 

Not in the mood.

 

 

 

I said I'm not in the mood (yet).

 

 

 

 

 

[Ginny]

These photos are fabulous!

Ginny

[Treepol]

@Alexander33 you have fabulous photos of the Pantanal jaguars, the love birds are the stand out sequence for me.

 

Really enjoying your Pantanal TR.

[xelas]

You have been in pure jaguar's heaven! Fantastic sightings, fantastic photos. 

[Atdahl]

That's an amazing sequence of shots of the two jaguars Peter. What an experience that must have been to watch.  The shots of the solitary "annoyed" jaguar at great as well.

 

Nice job with the fishing bats too.  Bats in flight are pretty much click and hope...for me at least. 

 

Were all these shots handheld or were you able to finagle a tripod or monopod on the boat? 

 

Alan

[Alexander33]

@Ginny

@Treepol

@xelas

@Atdahl

 

Thanks so much for the kind words.  The mating pair of jaguars certainly made for a special sighting. 

 

We saw them on August 31, and it looks like @Botswanadreams, @kittykat23uk, and @SafariChick saw this same pair when they were there a few weeks later -- or do you all think it might have been a different pair?  It's my understanding that jaguars will mate for a period of several weeks.  Not sure about your dates. 

 

Edited November 24, 2018 by Alexander33

[Alexander33]

9 hours ago, Atdahl said:

 

Were all these shots handheld or were you able to finagle a tripod or monopod on the boat? 

 

 

@Atdahl

 

All handheld.  For me, these trips are, first and foremost, all about the experience, and the photography, while important to me, is only complementary to the experience.  The photos wouldn't mean nearly as much without the fond memories behind them, and I find that lugging around a tripod, or even a monopod, robs me of the spontaneity and joy I want from my photography -- fully recognizing that I'd probably have a better "keeper" rate if I were more disciplined.

 

Plus, I tend to be pretty active when I'm shooting.  Sometimes, I was splayed out on the floor of the boat trying to get a low angle, and other times I was standing up (provided no one was behind us) to get a different perspective, and a tripod/monopod would have limited the flexibility and maneuverability that I prefer.

 

I always take a travel tripod (which breaks down to a monopod) with me, and it always stays untouched in the bottom of my bag!  That was true again on this last trip.

 

[lmonmm]

Absolutely loving all the jaguars and birds....this is a fascinating TR. I do have to say though, ambling through your writing and reading about your wish to see giant lily pads (I glossed over the giant)  and then the next picture which frankly, elicited a "holy shi*^" out of me.....now those are really GIANT lily pads.

[SafariChick]

@Alexander33 I have not had a chance to read your report yet, but I want to ASAP! We were at Porto Jofre from Sept. 25 I think it was for 4 nights. I don't know if it was the same pair you saw. I didn't know that they would continue mating for that long. 

[Chakra]

@Alexander33  What a great show by Romeo and Juliet ! But that chance encounter in the river is my favourite ! I couldn't agree more with your view. Photography is only complementary to the experience. 

[Alexander33]

23 hours ago, lmonmm said:

 I do have to say though, ambling through your writing and reading about your wish to see giant lily pads (I glossed over the giant)  and then the next picture which frankly, elicited a "holy shi*^" out of me.....now those are really GIANT lily pads.

 

So glad to meet another giant water lily fan!  I love those crazy things.

 

So, sorry to digress, but I can't resist telling a funny story here.  For several years, I've owned a book of Pantanal photographs (also with very interesting essays) by the photographer Theo Allofs, and it features a set of images of those water lilies on a placid lake with picturesque mountains in the background.  They were taken in the Acurizal Reserve in the far western Pantanal.

 

Here's a link to the book for those interested (suggest buying used, obviously): https://www.amazon.com/Pantanal-South-Americas-Wetland-Jewel/dp/1845378199

 

Anyway, I was so taken with this scene that I actually talked to our travel agent about going there to see it myself, but it was too remote and too expensive to manage, so I settled for that small grouping of giant water lilies at Porto Jofre.  I was talking about it at dinner one night, and one of the guides at the table perked his head up.

 

Would you believe that he had been manager of the Acurizal Reserve at the time and had actually assisted Theo Allofs in taking the very photos that had inspired me for so long?  He's even credited in the book.

 

But here's the truly amazing part part.  The guide told me that about a year after those photos were taken, the rains failed, and the lake where those water lilies were growing completely dried up.  He said they're all gone now.

 

I can't tell you how thankful I was that we hadn't gone all that way to try and see them.  Sometimes things really do work out for the best.  What a major bust that would have been!

 

[Alexander33]

The Tree Hugger

 

One morning, we walked down to the docks and climbed into the boat.  Something about it seemed familiar.  I looked over the side, and there was its name – Tayaman XXXVII.  This was the boat with the engine that had broken down our first morning.

 

“No, Tito!”  I protested.  “Not this boat again.”

 

“They fixed it,” he reassured me.

 

We ended up cruising in one of the numerous smaller tributaries, where I busied myself with yet another failed attempt to obtain a good photo of the blue-crowned trogon.

 

Going from bad to worse.....

 

 

 

Shortly after I had given up in defeat once more, a call came in that a female jaguar had been spotted nearby.  Tito mentioned that she was known for reposing in a tree overhanging the river.  This was a behavior I had very much wanted to see, as jaguars typically spend the hot periods of the day resting in the shade on the ground, not up in trees the way leopards do.

 

Vanderlei gunned the engine, and…..pfft, pfft, pfft….it went dead.

 

I didn’t need to say anything.  I just gave Tito “the look.” 

 

Poor guy.  He and Vanderlei had to paddle the boat until we reached a large tree, where we waited in the shade.

 

At this point, we actually could see a group of boats upriver, all looking at this jaguar.  I remained silent, my lips pursed, but it was probably obvious that I was not happy.

 

In due course, a staff member from the hotel arrived with a replacement boat, and we joined the others upriver.  Fortunately (given my frame of mind), the jaguar had not climbed up to her usual spot in the tree.  She was still where she had been when initially discovered, snoozing in the shade on the forest floor.

 

 

 

 

Although I would very much have liked to see a jaguar in a tree, it was probably just as well that this one had remained on the ground.  If she had posed on her perch over the river, and we had missed it because of our mechanical troubles from that cursed boat, I would really have been upset.

 

From that point forward, Tito and Vanderlei took no chances with what boat we used.  Goodbye forever, Tayaman XXXVII.

 

 

Tayaman XXXVII and me in happier times.

 

 

[Alexander33]

By the way, for those who were asking, all the boats from the lodge are called Tayaman ____, followed by a set of Roman numerals.  I have no idea what “Tayaman” means, and a Google search revealed no answers – although I now know that Tayamen (with an “e”) is a surname in the Phillipines.  What I can convey is that Tayaman XXXIV ended up being much more reliable than Tayaman XXXVII. 

 

You heard it here first…..

[Alexander33]

Mick

 

We were speeding down the Cuiabá River one day around mid-morning when Tito gesticulated toward the bank.  A jaguar had stepped out of the jungle at the shore.  Upon closer inspection, through our binoculars, we could just make out that he had some sort of prey.  Although it’s impossible to tell from the photos, the jaguar was snacking on a yellow anaconda.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The jaguar in question was Mick (“Mick Jaguar”), a famous hunter now entering old age.  Mick is unmistakable, as he’s missing his right eye.  I first “met” Mick in a report that @janzin did a few years ago, so when we found him, it was almost like meeting up with an old friend.

 

Having finished off the snake, Mick took to the water in a small channel off the main river. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At first, this was an especially nice sighting because we had it to ourselves.  But, inevitably, another boat joined us, and then another, and then another, and before we knew it, this small channel was stacked up with boats.  We had been at the front, and so it was possible to ignore them for a while, but when Mick decided to circle back toward the river, the tables turned and we were now last in line, with nowhere to go until the congestion cleared out.

 

At one point, Mick went back into the channel, and I could tell that the boats, parked next to one another, bow to stern, caused him to alter his intended crossing to the opposite shore.  That’s when I told Tito I wanted to leave – as soon as we could get out of the channel, that is. 

 

In defense of the other boatmen, they hadn’t known that the jaguar would go back toward the river and they didn’t intend to block his way.  That’s just the way it happened.  Fortunately, although there was some crowding at other sightings, this was the only one where I thought the boat traffic actually interfered with the jaguar’s natural behavior.  Most of the time, the jaguars seem largely oblivious to the throngs of their admirers.

 

Fortunately, we had another chance with Mick, and this time we really did have the sighting all to ourselves.  We found him posing at the edge of a steep bank on a smaller tributary early on our last full morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As we watched him, Tito pointed downriver.  Four giant river otters were making their way toward us.  And when they noticed Mick, all hell broke loose.  Their successive alarm calls sent an unmistakable message: “Don’t even think about it.  You stay up there.  This is our river.”

 

 

 

 

 

As for Mick, he couldn’t have cared less.  He peered down at them as if to say, “What is your problem?” and then promptly rested his head on his massive paws for a little snooze.

 

 

 

 

 

I toggled between Mick and the otters until the otters finally piped down and continued on their way.  I didn’t start kicking myself until J. showed me his shots of the scene. 

 

 

 

Ugh!  I had totally been asleep at the wheel, as they say.  Why hadn’t I grabbed the other camera with a shorter lens so that I could get that wider shot myself? 

 

I’m grateful that we have this series of photos with both Mick and the otters in the same frame, but I am still beating myself up for not getting them on my own.  Maybe after 5 days I was getting lazy.  Maybe I was just too caught up in the moment.  Maybe I should have had that extra cup of coffee before leaving the lodge.  Whatever the reason, the lesson was clear: Don’t ever let your guard down.

 

Still, the experience was great.  (And never underestimate the benefit of an extra cameraman)!

 

 

 

 

Edited November 26, 2018 by Alexander33

[Alexander33]

While our focus at Porto Jofre was definitely jaguars, we did stop for other wildlife, but usually only when we thought it would count for something.  Here are some random shots we took along the way, in no particular order:

 

Boat-billed Heron

 

 

 

Capped Heron

 

 

 

Green Iguana

 

 

 

The jabiru, the world's largest stork, taking what must be the world's largest nesting "twig."

 

 

 

 

 

Ringed Kingfisher (male)

 

 

 

Giant river otter.  These are really challenging to photograph.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

With those sharp claws and teeth, you can see why the giant river otter is the apex predator of the rivers.

 

 

 

Southern screamer (female) and chick.

 

 

 

You’ll notice two glaring general omissions of Pantanal stalwarts: capybara and caiman.  We actually saw plenty of both.  It’s just that we had taken so many photos of capybara and caiman at Barranco Alto in 2016 that I didn’t feel particularly compelled to follow suit on this trip.

 

And, of course, even on the Tayaman XXXVII, the Pantanal sunrises over the river were spectacular.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 26, 2018 by Alexander33