Brazil: A Tale of Two Trips, 2016 and 2018

[Alexander33]

For several days, Tito had been talking about an approaching front from the south that was supposed to produce rain.  We had experienced some increasing cloud cover, but no rain appeared. 

 

On our last afternoon, however, gray, swirling clouds rolled in and the wind picked up a bit.  We plowed the river in our boat as usual, but we had traveled quite a while without a radio call and without seeing anything ourselves.  As the afternoon wore on, we passed by other boats going in all directions, the guides all imploringly looking at one another for any positive news before resignedly shrugging their shoulders and continuing their search.  We could tell the weather was changing, and so could the animals.  Everything, it seemed, had ducked into the thick understory for cover.  

 

Finally, we decided to forget about jaguars and just go exploring some of the smaller tributaries to see whatever we could.  Along one very narrow, placid waterway, Tito told Vanderlei to cut the engine.  He pointed to a small patch iridescent green in the shadows along the bank.  As we slowly floated forward, I finally could make out our target.

 

It was a male green-and-rufous kingfisher.  Finally!  On our last excursion, we had found the rarest of the five kingfisher species found in the Pantanal – a lifer for us. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We were really happy to find this elusive kingfisher.  They are notoriously skittish, but this one was so intent on spotting a fish in the water below that he allowed us to get extremely close.

 

And for one brief moment, the light from the setting sun broke through the clouds and bore down on the shadowy embankment, illuminating the iridescent feathers of this tiny bird.

 

 

 

Even though we had failed to see a jaguar on our final afternoon, it was hard to be disappointed.  We had experienced some phenomenal jaguar sightings – in fact, our expectations had easily been exceeded.  But it was also nice to remember that it’s not just all about jaguars.  Sometimes, it pays to relax your pursuits and, instead, simply take things as they come.

 

In fact, that point had been made clear to me the day before…..

 

[Alexander33]

While it may appear that our entire stay at Porto Jofre was action-packed with jaguars, in fact, some excursions were a little slower than others.  And so it was one day around mid-morning when we decided to venture deeper into the Park.  Vanderlei’s family property is adjacent to the Park, situated along a narrow river, and we were invited to stop, stretch our legs, and have a coffee at the house where his father lives.

 

The place was gathered on a spot made available for extended family and friends.  There was a sizable chapel, wooden and painted yellow and green, front and center; the house was to the left; and a garden area with multiple tables and chairs for outdoor meals and meetings was to the right.

 

While J. accompanied Tito as Vanderlei showed them around, I looked at the group and was given gentle permission to be kind of rude and wander off into the garden area on my own.  I was just standing there, not looking at anything in particular, when my peripheral vision caught a glimpse of a bright red-orange color.  I turned to my left, and there was a male blue-crowned trogon, straight ahead and perched fairly low, the feathered target I had been pursuing the whole trip. 

 

A cooperative blue-crowned trogon.  Finally!

 

 

 

 

 

Sometimes, if you keep an open mind and stay alert, the opportunity you’ve been waiting for so long just might present itself when you least expect it.

 

 

[Alexander33]

On our final morning, we slept in a little later than normal, as our charter flight to Barranco Alto was due to depart at 8:30 and we had no morning activity.  When we stepped out of our room, however, it was clear that the frontal system Tito had been talking about had fully blown in during the night.  The skies were a deep, dull gray and the temperature had plummeted, and I was completely unprepared.  September in the Pantanal usually means one thing – hot.  I hadn’t even brought a light jacket with me.

 

At breakfast, the news was even more foreboding.  Although it was still dry here, heavy rains were pelting the South.  Barranco Alto was reporting that its landing strip was not serviceable.  It wasn’t safe to fly.  We would have to wait things out before we could depart.

 

We checked in with the office periodically throughout the morning, but the situation had not changed.  I’m not sure when a final decision was made, but likely (hopefully?) it was at some point before lunch, where we saw our pilot sitting alone at a table doing shots of what looked like vodka. 

 

Our “last morning” would not be our last morning after all.

 

[janzin]

Wow, amazing jaguar sightings!! And fabulous photos of the mating pair.  Really glad to see "Mick" still alive and well.

 

 

[Alexander33]

I must say that Tito, our travel agent John Willemsen at Brazil Nature tours, and the staff at Hotel Pantanal Norte were all fantastic in response.  In short order, another room (smaller, but perfectly serviceable) had been found for us and all our meals were taken care of.  Not ones to miss an opportunity, J. and I spent this bonus day strolling the grounds and walking the adjacent road and were rewarded with some photo ops that we would not have had time for otherwise. (And, when it started raining heavily that afternoon, we made the best of it and took a much-welcomed nap!)

 

The Grounds of Hotel Pantanal Norte

 

 

 

 

 

Grounded

 

 

 

Chestnut-eared Aracari

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Squirrel Cuckoo

 

 

 

Toco Toucan

 

 

 

 

 

Vermilion Flycatcher

 

 

 

Yellow-billed Cardinal

 

 

 

Yellow-chevroned Parakeet

 

 

 

Tito was relieved that we were not upset about missing a day at Barranco Alto, but with even worse weather conditions there, we wouldn’t have had a chance to see much anyway. 

 

In fact, if anything, who I really felt sorry for were the guests with scheduled jaguar excursions.  Jaguars do not like cold or wind or rain.  Throughout the course of that day, the groups who took to the river only managed to see a total of one jaguar – a very unhappy jaguar, and only for a fleeting moment.   We had been exceptionally fortunate to have skirted this weather system during our own outings. 

 

 

Edited November 27, 2018 by Alexander33

[Alexander33]

The next morning dawned crystal clear.  It was still quite cool, but the rains were past and the landing strip at Barranco Alto was navigable again.  Our pilot gave us the thumbs-up at breakfast, and we were ready to go at 8:00.  Well, almost.  I had one final task at hand.

 

The day before, I had noticed a wattled jacana hopping amongst the giant Amazon waterlilies in the pond behind the lodge, hunting for insects, but the light had been too low to manage a decent photograph.  Today was different.

 

 

 

Now we could go.

 

[Alexander33]

The flight to Barranco Alto lasted about 90 minutes.  It was interesting to see the change in terrain as we made our way south.  Whereas the North is penetrated by numerous rivers, the South is punctuated with a multitude of ponds and lakes, some ephemeral and others permanent. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Before landing, we circled the Barranco Alto headquarters several times.  I thought this was a courtesy maneuver, provided in order to give the staff an opportunity to greet the plane as we disembarked.  How considerate, I thought.

 

Aerial view of Fazenda Barranco Alto, with a vehicle coming to meet us at the landing strip.

 

 

 

But, no, it turned out to be due to something entirely more practical.  It seems a rhea was browsing on the mowed grass of the landing strip, and the staff had to shoo it off in order for us to land!

 

 

 

We made it -- finally!

 

 

 

Welcome to Fazenda Barranco Alto.

 

 

 

[Atdahl]

Way to take advantage of that extra day Peter!  I loved walking the grounds of the Hotel Pantanal Norte during our trip and I am glad that you got that opportunity as well.  You got some great bird pictures and the Wattled Jacana on the giant lily pad is awesome.  In 2016, our pilot had to circle the BA runway as well...but sheep were the reason then.  

 

Looking forward to the BA installment now .

 

Alan

[Alexander33]

10 hours ago, Atdahl said:

Way to take advantage of that extra day Peter!  I loved walking the grounds of the Hotel Pantanal Norte during our trip and I am glad that you got that opportunity as well. 

 

Thanks, Alan. As things turned out, we certainly were glad we had opted for a ground-based lodge instead of one of the flotels.  We later met guests at Barranco Alto who had stayed on a flotel, and they had been very happy with it, but I don’t know what we would have done for the day had we been on one, assuming there was even room for us for an extra night. 

 

Barranco Alto coming up!

[Alexander33]

2016 and 2018

 

Stepping off the plane, we were greeted with a familiar face.  Stefan Grol had guided us during part of our stay in 2016, and he was to be our private guide for the duration of our stay this time as well.  Claudia Pozzoli had also guided us in 2016, and she was still there, too.  As there were some German-speaking guests at the lodge, and Claudia speaks German, she was assigned to them.  It was great to see these two wonderful guides again.

 

We dropped our bags in our room (the Red Room, the same as we had in 2016) and quickly put our gear together to take a guided walk with Stefan in the woodlands behind the lodge before lunch.  We knew the area well.  Just over two years before, we had done the same thing with Claudia, only it was late afternoon and we had arrived exhausted and starving after a very tedious 8-hour drive from Campo Grande.

 

As we strolled with Claudia, she pointed out our first Barranco Alto bird: the turquoise-fronted amazon.

 

(2016)

 

 

 

How fitting then that, upon our arrival this time, we trekked the exact same place – and that our first official Barranco Alto bird of 2018 was, naturally, the turquoise-fronted amazon!

 

(2018)

 

 

 

New to the scene were managers Corrine and Ben.  The fazenda is owned by Corrine’s family, and when we had visited in 2016, her sister Marina and Marina’s husband, Lucas Leuzinger, were running the operations.  In fact, Lucas built the original guest lodge himself, and he and Marina are largely responsible for Barranco Alto’s development into one of the primary eco-lodges in the Southern Pantanal. 

 

But in the intervening time between our visits, Lucas and Marina relocated to Switzerland, where both their families have deep roots, in order to accommodate their childrens’ higher education needs.  Fortunately, Corrine and Ben, who is English, and their two toddlers, have stepped in to continue the Barranco Alto tradition.  Once their kids are older, they will need to move on as well, but I’m told that Lucas and Marina intend to return once their nests are empty.  I do hope that’s the case.  It would be such shame for us wildlife lovers to lose a treasure like Fazenda Barranco Alto.

 

But enough of the reminiscing.  Ben had just returned from a morning on the river (the Rio Negro) and was raving about the spectacular sunrise they had experienced.  The front and the torrential rains had cleansed the dry dust from the landscape, and everything was sparkling in the refreshing clean, brisk air. 

 

Best of all?  Whereas jaguars come out in the heat and lay low in the jungle during cool weather, giant anteaters do the opposite.  An anteater had not been spotted at Barranco Alto in over a week, but everyone felt confident that the cooler weather that had come in would bring better prospects.

 

 

[Alexander33]

Barranco Alto offers both land-based and water-based wildlife excursions.  The land-based outings are similar to traditional South African safaris: an open vehicle, with both a driver and a guide if there’s a group, or just with your guide if it’s private; sundowners; and a night safari with spotlighting.  The water-based outings are in a small motorboat, but there are opportunities to land on shore and even hike in the adjacent forest, if you wish. 

 

In order to give you a better feel for what a stay at Barranco Alto is like, I’ll recount our first full day there in 2016, which consisted of a river outing in the morning and a jeep drive in the afternoon.

 

I wrote the following accounts in 2016 as part of the report I never finished:

 

 

2016

 

On our first morning at Barranco Alto, we went out with Lucas onto the Rio Negro. 

 

 

 

Our goal for the morning was the giant river otter.

 

We had barely pulled away from shore when we encountered a pair of Amazon kingfishers.  Each time they caught a fish, they would beat the poor thing to a pulp against a branch to soften the flesh before finally tossing their heads back and swallowing it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I was amazed at how close we could get to these birds.  The kingfishers we have at home are extremely skittish, but I’ve only ever approached them on foot.  In the boat, we were able to get so close that sometimes my camera lens was too big to get them fully in the frame.

 

Lucas then noticed movement in the water.  It turned out to be a female Neotropical River Otter, who was hunting for breakfast for her two young pups who lingered near their den below the riverbank.  She was quite the agile fisherwoman.

 

 

 

One of the pups was shy and stayed back in the recesses of the den, but the other was more gregarious, and he refused to let these bothersome strangers distract him from the scintillating scent of fresh fish.  These photos of him, in all his innocence, peering from the murky den in the dawn light at his mother as he waited to be given some of her fish, were some of my favorites:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Caiman were everywhere on the sandy beaches along the river.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This jabiru walking past a sunning caiman was an iconic Pantanal scene, but the composition just never came entirely together.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I fully admit to having a prejudice against birds and other wildlife we can find at home, especially when they are as common as the great egret, but this particular one against a backdrop of a flowering pink ipe, or trumpet tree, was different enough to garner my interest.

 

 

 

We saw more kingfishers, including the other two commonly-found species at Barranco Alto: the green kingfisher and the ringed kingfisher.

 

 

 

 

 

A rufous-tailed jacamar was enjoying its own choice of breakfast.

 

 

 

As we headed into a small inlet, Lucas quickly killed the engine.  “Giant otter,” he whispered.  Silently turning a bend, we were met by three otters, but they were not at all happy with our invasion.  One let out an alarm call, all three crashed into the water, and they were gone.

 

 

 

At one point, we pulled up to shore and stepped off the boat for a short hike.  After walking for a short while in the forest, we came onto a small lake, and there, another family of giant river otters were at play.  They were quite far, and we couldn’t approach them much closer for fear of spooking them, but it was gratifying to see them nonetheless.

 

 

 

 

 

On our way back to the lodge to get cleaned up and ready for lunch, Lucas received a radio call that a yellow anaconda had been spotted on the river bank, and we quickly headed out to see if we could find it.  Ultimately, we did, but by the time we arrived, it was in the midst of invading a kingfisher nest in a deep hole set in the bank, and, thus, we only managed a partial view and no photos worth mentioning.

 

By now, it was about 10:30 A.M. The sunlight was extremely bright and the temperature was really starting to heat up, but that wasn’t enough to deter us from stopping for another neotropical river otter having a late breakfast (and which looked surprised to see us).

 

 

 

It had been a great first morning at Barranco Alto and, best of all, we didn’t see another soul on the river.  It was just us and nature.

 

[Alexander33]

2016 (cont.)

 

The afternoon activities would begin at 3:00 P.M. under the huge mango tree on the patio.  We set out with Claudia in a vehicle to find hyacinth macaws and, hopefully, a giant anteater.

 

The hyacinth macaw, listed by IUCN as Vulnerable and found only in the Pantanal and in several other isolated spots in Brazil, is the largest of the macaw species at 40 inches long.  We made our way to an area lush with palm trees and found a small flock feeding on their fruits.

 

 

 

A mating pair were checking out their nesting site nearby.

 

 

 

 

 

High above, a pair of jabirus were making preparations for their nest as well.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After spending a leisurely amount of time with these iconic birds, Claudia suggested we move on to a more densely forested area, where a pair of red-and-green macaws were nesting.  She parked the jeep at a fair distance to avoid disturbing them, and walked as quietly as we could  toward the massive tree where their nest cavity was.  Unfortunately, no one was home at the moment.

 

A male black howler monkey kept an eye on us, nevertheless.

 

 

 

We climbed back into the jeep, but try as she might, Claudia could not get it start.  It sounded like the battery was dead.  Claudia had no choice but to radio back to the lodge for a rescue.  I was really disappointed at this turn of events, because I eagerly had wanted to see a giant anteater and we were now running out of light.

 

Would it be okay if we walked a bit while waiting for someone to come pick us up?  No problem, and so we grabbed our cameras and started down the road.  We rounded a bend where, through the vegetation, we could see a lake ringed by forest on the other side.

 

A movement caught my eye.  We had startled a crab-eating fox.

 

 

 

“What’s that?” whispered J.

 

I looked over in the direction he was facing.  No, it couldn’t be!

 

But, yes, it was.  A giant anteater.  And not just a giant anteater, but a giant anteater with a pup on her back walking in the beautiful golden afternoon light.  Our first anteater ever, and we had struck gold!

 

 

 

Claudia quickly picked a piece of grass and held it up to the wind.  The direction of the breeze was not favorable to our position, but we made the best of it and tried to get closer.  Unfortunately, the anteater detected our scent, and she ambled back into the safety of the dense forest.

 

 

 

The sighting had not lasted long, but it had been exceptionally special.  Claudia said it was the first time this season that she had seen an anteater with a baby.

 

A member of the ranch staff arrived with a truck, but by now, we were entranced with the beauty of the lake and the forest before us, so we decided to continue our walk until we lost our light. 

 

We found this toco toucan – another first for us – feeding on palm fruits nearby.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And through an opening in the forest, I spied a pair of crimson-crested woodpeckers preparing their nest hole.  They were far away, and the light was really low at this point, so this was the best photo I could manage.

 

 

 

It had been a gorgeous afternoon -- and a productive one: our first hyacinth macaws; our first toco toucan; and our first giant anteater, with a pup on her back, no less.  In retrospect, the jeep’s breaking down was the best thing that could have happened to us!  

 

 

 

[Atdahl]

Great photos as usual Peter.  I can see why you fell in love with BA.  Your 2016 trip has been awesome so far.

 

I am just like you when it comes to a tripod these days.  I haven't even taken mine on our last few trips.  I have missed it a few times but not lugging it around hot and humid jungles has been great.  Higher ISO is my friend .

[Alexander33]

13 hours ago, Atdahl said:

Higher ISO is my friend .

 

Amen!

[Alexander33]

2016 and 2018

 

The day at Barranco Alto begins with breakfast at 6:00, followed by a morning activity that concludes between 10:30 and 11:30.  Lunch is served around noon, and then guests are free to relax or wander the property on their own until 3:00, when the afternoon activity commences.  Caipirinhas are available when you return in the evening, followed by dinner around 7:30. 

 

All meals are taken at a large communal table.  During both our stays at Barranco Alto, that communal table never failed to proffer numerous fascinating people whose company we thoroughly enjoyed.  In fact, during our 2016 stay, we got along so well with some of the other guests that we abandoned the notion of sticking with a private guide the whole time and elected to join them on a number of excursions.

 

My last post contained the final journal entry I had from our 2016 trip, so from this point forward, I’ll just mention some of the things we encountered during the course of both our stays at Barranco Alto.  Having been there twice now, and also having spent some time in the Northern Pantanal, my general impression is this:

 

For jaguars, stick to the North.  Although jaguars have been seen at Barranco Alto (in fact, a camera trap set by our guide Stefan captured one this past September – you can see the actual photo in @Atdahl’s trip report), the North has a much higher density of them. 

 

However, for giant anteaters and parrots, the South is where you want to be, at least in my experience, and that's what I'll focus on in the following posts.

 

[Alexander33]

In 2016, in addition to the anteater and her pup that we found on our first drive with Claudia, we also found a second anteater and pup, this one a little older, while on an afternoon drive with Stefan.

 

(2016)

 

 

 

This one also detected us fairly quickly, and she made her getaway through a marshy area that was simply too wet and muddy for us to pursue her.

 

Incidentally, when we found her, we were on our way to the family’s original homestead, which had been abandoned, but was not entirely empty.  A colony of vampire bats had taken roost there.

 

 

 

(I noticed from @Botswanadreams's website and @kittykat23uk's trip report that our fellow Safaritalkers who were there some ten days after us in 2018 saw them, too, so I’m glad to see they’re still there.)

 

We also came across another anteater in 2016 one evening on a night drive, but I didn’t manage any photos of that one.

 

Edited December 2, 2018 by Alexander33

[Alexander33]

As much as we enjoyed seeing those anteaters in 2016, I wanted more.  Fortunately, everyone’s predictions that the cool front that had come through the day before our arrival on this last trip would bring the anteaters out proved to be correct.

 

We saw one right before sunset on our first drive that evening.

 

(2018)

 

 

 

We followed him for a bit, as he rummaged for ants and termites, but eventually had to abandon the pursuit as the light dissipated.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

But the best was to come the next morning.

 

 

Edited December 2, 2018 by Alexander33

[Alexander33]

Around mid-morning, Stefan suggested that we inspect an area where a pair of burrowing owls are often found.  They were there, just as expected, but moments later, Stefan exclaimed in his trademark stage whisper, “Guys!  Anteater!”

 

It was a female that the staff has named “Clawdia” and her pup.  

 

We quickly descended from the jeep and began to track her.  Unlike the other anteaters we had seen at Barranco Alto, Clawdia was completely unfazed by our presence.  She wasn’t tame, like the anteater at Pouso Alegre, but she wasn’t alarmed by us, either. 

 

(2018)

 

 

 

The best part of this experience was that the pup was beginning to test its limits, and, from time to time, would climb off its mother’s back and explore the ground on its own.

 

Feeling pretty confident.

 

 

 

Peek-a-boo.

 

 

 

But after awhile, it would want back up.  It was amazing to watch the mother anteater instinctively lower her back so that her offspring could climb up to the safety and comfort of its soft maternal perch.

 

Maybe this independence isn't all it's cracked up to be.

 

 

 

 

 

There -- much better.

 

 

 

 

 

This routine continued for some time, as Clawdia comfortably combed the area for ants and termites, the baby periodically climbing down to explore next to its mother, then climbing back up for a ride.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We were able to spend over 30 minutes with these two, and it definitely was a highlight of the trip.

 

 

 

Edited December 2, 2018 by Alexander33

[Alexander33]

We were fortunate to encounter "Clawdia" and her pup again a few nights later. 

 

(2018)

 

 

 

They got so close that my lens was too long for photos of the pair, so I focused my efforts on the baby. 

 

 

 

 

 

It wasn't long, though, before they disappeared back into the darkness of the Pantanal night.

 

 

Edited December 2, 2018 by Alexander33

[Botswanadreams]

Wow you were very lucky @Alexander33. It's so beautiful. Thanks for sharing this pics with us.

[michael-ibk]

A lovely sequence - big awwwwwww factor!

[Atdahl]

@Alexander33, what an awesome experience with Claudia and her pup.  Seeing the pup ("Clawd" or maybe "Claw-rk"?) test it's independence must have been really cool to see.  Furthermore, I find it really interesting to compare all our experiences at BA since we were there within about a month of each other.  You guys, @SafariChick, @kittykat23uk,  @Botswanadreams, and us all saw some of the same things but we also had very unique experiences and saw lots of different behaviors.  It just goes to show you the tremendous diversity of the Pantanal and why Stefan, Claudia, and other never get tired of living and guiding there.  It's a special place and there is always something new and exciting to see tomorrow...

[Alexander33]

9 hours ago, Atdahl said:

Seeing the pup ("Clawd" or maybe "Claw-rk"?) test it's independence must have been really cool to see.  

 

Or Clawdette, perhaps?  Yes, it really was special for us.

 

Here's one I forgot to post of the pup on its own a bit -- pretty heavily cropped.

 

 

 

[Alexander33]

9 hours ago, Atdahl said:

You guys, @SafariChick, @kittykat23uk,  @Botswanadreams, and us all saw some of the same things but we also had very unique experiences and saw lots of different behaviors.  It just goes to show you the tremendous diversity of the Pantanal and why Stefan, Claudia, and other never get tired of living and guiding there.  It's a special place and there is always something new and exciting to see tomorrow...

 

I couldn't agree more.  Between your and @kittykat23uk's reports, it's been great to compare and contrast our experiences.  You just never know what you're going to find, do you? 

 

I mentioned at the outset of this report that tapir has always been my nemesis, and although we (finally) had good luck with them at Pouso Alegre, we still didn't see one in the daylight, try as we might.  Wouldn't you know, the other group at Barranco Alto, led by Claudia, came across a tapir two afternoons in a row, both times in beautiful light by the water! 

 

On the flip side, other guests who had arrived several days before us, and left two days after our arrival, did not manage to see a single anteater during the entirety of their stay -- and it was the one thing that they had most wanted to see.

 

It's that sense of possibility, hope, and anticipation that keeps me going back for more.  It's addictive!

[Alexander33]

As I mentioned earlier, another highlight at Barranco Alto are the hyacinth macaws.  A pair has nested in a large manduvi tree next to the river by the lodge for at least 17 years. 

 

(2016)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We didn’t find them as reliably on this last trip as we had in 2016, but, fortunately, I was able to pay my respects on our first afternoon there.

 

(2018)

 

 

 

But spectacular feathers don’t stop with the hyacinth macaws.  Barranco Alto is a haven for other parrot species.

 

Black-hooded Parakeet (2016)

 

 

 

Blue-crowned Parakeet (2018)

 

 

 

Peach-fronted Parakeet (2016)

 

 

 

Red-and-Green Macaw (2016)

 

 

 

Red-and-Green Macaw (2018)

 

 

 

Red-Shouldered Macaw (2018)

 

 

 

Yellow-and-blue Macaw