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Kasanka, Bangweulu & Liuwa in Nov-Dec with Robin Pope Safaris


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Kasanka, Bangweulu, and Liuwa are phenomenal multi-dimensional nature destinations and definitely off the beaten path.


As a solo traveler, the small group trips (6 max) provided by Robin Pope Safaris (RPS) were an ideal way to share fixed costs. The two trips I combined delivered superior quality in every respect. You can also drive to all these locations on your own or with a guide. Originally, I contacted esteemed guide, Rod Tether, of the famous and former Kutandala and now of Zambian Expeditions (rod@zambianexpeditions.com) about a private or group trip to a few Zambia locations in November. The RPS excursions were the logical results of our discussions.




........... Kasanka..................................................................................................................................Shoebill Island, Bangweulu......................................................................................................................................Liuwa

Edited by Atravelynn
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You are being stalked, so here I am reading avidly even before you get the first post up properly :D

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Bats plus Bangweulu


The bats arrive Kasanka the end of Oct and depart near Christmastime and t he Pope bat trip always departs right around Thanksgiving. The last week of Nov in Kasanka is ideal timing. As a bonus, our bat trip coincided with the full moon, something that had not occurred to any of us until we looked up and saw the Batman logo looming in front of us. Capturing that logo by camera required hundreds of continuous shoot frames and luck. A monopod helped, IMO. The photojournalist in our group toted major equipment and I’m sure his bat logo is a work of art.



BBC Hide, Morning, Kasanka


Sitatunga are seen in late November in Kasanka, mainly right at Wasa Lodge, but also from the Fibwe Sitatunga hide. We saw a mix of males, females, and a fawn, about half a dozen in all, at distances of about 40 meters or more. June/July are the easiest times to see sitatunga at closer range, especially near water. May is pretty good for sitatunga too.


Sitatunga, all viewed from Wasa Lodge in Kasanka



The Pope bat trip includes a daytrip by air to Shoebill Island in Banguwelu. In late Nov/early Dec the black lechwe are out in numbers but the majority of the males do not have striking black markings, as it is after the breeding season. Some dark males could still be seen and the large herds of both males and females were impressive.



Male Black Lechwe, Shoebill Island, Bangweulu


A few zebra mixed in with the lechwe and we heard about some tsessebe, but saw none.



Shoebill Island, Bangweulu


The shoebills, save one, have migrated to a distant and unreachable part of the park this time of year. The single non-migrator is a known as Kapotwe. We were told it (other sources referred to it as she/her) had been captured as a chick by poachers, then freed by rangers. The bird’s early life represented sort of an avian version of “Born Free” and now it likes to hang around in an area often shared with humans.


Finding this shoebill with the help of local fishermen is similar to tracking gorillas with scouts, only the terrain is swamp, not jungle. The bird is not fed and it is entirely capable of flying. We got to see it flapping and flying overhead—a magnificent sight—as we sloshed back to Shoebill Camp after our Kapotwe Shoebill encounter.



Shoebill Island, Bangweulu


The shoebills tend to congregate around Shoebill Island, joining their resident pal, Kapotwe, starting in April. May and June are the best times to see shoebills, usually by boat, I think. July can be good too as the nesting season begins. A longshot is to try to see chicks in August. The BBC came at that time and filmed chicks and I just saw the documentary. If Kapotwe is indeed a she and if she breeds and raises chicks, that could offer a very rewarding scenario.

Edited by Atravelynn
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You are being stalked, so here I am reading avidly even before you get the first post up properly :D

Stalk the elusive shoebill!

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Liuwa Plains


There are about three Liuwa Pope trips mid-Nov to early December. Wildes arrive usually late Oct and accessibility to and within Liuwa diminishes in mid-December. As the season progresses, so do the odds of inaccessibility. Driving to Liuwa, as opposed to flying, can pose a real challenge, depending on rains. The wildebeest migration of around 50,000 animals—the 4th largest mammal migration on the continent—turned out to be more of a sideshow than a main event in Liuwa, which so much to offer that the wildes sort of faded into the sunset, literally.



Liuwa Plains


African Migration #s

1. Straw-colored Fruit Bats in Kasanka (billed as largest mammal migration in the world)

2. Blue Wildebeest and zebra migration in Kenya/Tanzania

3. Gazelles and other antelope in Southern Sudan (although it might be bigger than wildes)

4. Blue Wildebeest in Liuwa


Is #5 the minibuses in the Mara? (Not being snobbish, I’ve been one of them more than once.) Seriously, I wonder what #5 is.


In Liuwa, the place itself was a huge attraction. We could see the landscape come alive day by day as flowering pink lilies (Amachiris) and tiny yellow blooms (Grangea) carpeted the ground in ever increasing numbers, below the commanding backdrop of changing skies. The wildes presented themselves as fitting secondary subjects on this vast and magnificent set. Of course, Lady Liuwa was a star, and seemed to take that role seriously. Birds were abundant, especially the elegant crowned cranes. Wild dogs were active in a sizeable pack of 20+ and how nice that the researchers were eager to share the dogs’ locations Pope guests. The resident hyenas, known for their size and good health, were our constant companions day and night. Though they eluded us during our four nights, about eight known cheetah roam the park too.



.........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................Lady Liuwa



Stringing the bat and Liuwa Pope trips together, as I did—and as one Liuwa-repeat couple also did—makes for a well-designed and unusual safari.



Blacksmith Plovers in huge flocks in Liuwa Plains


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Great stuff so far! The batman logo is way cool, and I love the shoebill!


P.S. your last post was posting as mine was so I hadn't yet seen it - wow, gorgeous scenery too! Would love to see these photos a little bigger ...

Edited by SafariChick
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How wet and rainy is it late Nov/early Dec?

Not very during my stay. Maybe I was lucky. In Kasanka the skies looked angry several times but we donned our rain gear only once, while driving to the bats one afternoon and the light shower stopped before bat time. Another evening it drizzled as we walked to our Wasa Lodge rondavels and it continued to sprinkle during the night. Kasanka’s Wasa was BYO Raingear in an open vehicle where Guide Jacob offered camera protection under a tarp.


In contrast, Matamanene Camp in Liuwa provided us with stow bag rain ponchos and there were drop flaps on the vehicle. Driving into Liuwa we had a shower that required the ponchos and flaps for about 20 minutes. A second time the flaps were dropped, again, for about 20 minutes of rain. We did a good job of avoiding and outmaneuvering the showers that fell all around us in localized storms, which we viewed (and sometimes photographed) along the horizon.


Liuwa Plains


Our last night in Liuwa during dinner, the heavens broke loose directly above us. Downpour was an understatement. It was a good test of both the main dining tent and our own individual tents, all of which remained dry. The next day the landscape was transformed; nearby Kings Pool had turned into a lake and previously dry plains were wetlands. We all agreed the drenching rains and their aftermath were worth experiencing in Liuwa Plains.


The Liuwa visitors prior to us had one full day of solid rain, but they got to spend that gloomy day with Lady Liuwa, who was hunkered down and seeking refuge.


With rain comes rainbows - Liuwa Plains


Back in civilization, on the runway in Lusaka, leaving for Joburg, we had a lightning storm, complete with torrents of rain that our pilot fortunately decided to wait out for about 90 minutes.


I’m up for another wet season safari—or, as I have been corrected to say—a green season, better yet emerald season safari. Or how about “verdant and luxuriant season of rebirth, renewal, and vibrant regeneration”?


King's Pool near Matamanene Camp in Liuwa Plains


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Great stuff so far! The batman logo is way cool, and I love the shoebill!


P.S. your last post was posting as mine was so I hadn't yet seen it - wow, gorgeous scenery too! Would love to see these photos a little bigger ...

The whole package from bats to birds to scenery on the ground and in the air! Enough rain at one point that surfing may have been possible.


Thanks, Safarichick.

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Mosquitoes/Tse tses

In Kasanaka I recall seeing about two tse tses and very few mosquitoes. Liuwa does not have tse tses and again, mosquitoes were no problem. Some flies buzzed around at times in both places. Wendy, a safarimate, and I noted similar little bites on our faces and elsewhere that we had mysteriously accumulated in both Kasanka and Liuwa. They were a little itchy, but nothing severe. Whatever invisible insects had feasted upon us, they had bypassed the men.


I had wondered if the rains would bring swarms of hungry mosquitoes, but that was not the case. Nov/Dec in Kasanka and Liuwa were not much different than what I recall in Eastern and Southern Africa in the high-season dry months. My Buzz-off headnet and jacket saw no action, although they were packed and ready to go.



Dragonflies were abundant, as seen here with the crowned crane, but mosquitoes or tse tses were not a problem

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The standard RPS South Luangwa & Kasanka itinerary with the daytrip to Shoebill Island, offers a nice variety and allows for some buffer days up front in SL should Nov weather or anything else cause delays. I chopped off the front end of the trip (the South Luangwa part) to be home for the very important American holiday, Thanksgiving. The result stacked several long travel days together and increased my risk of missing that important charter from Mfuwe to Kasanka by removing any buffer days. A little risky, but fortunately I encountered no delays or problems.



................................Flying to South Luangwa...................................................................................................................................Flying to Kasanka...........................................................................................................................Flying to Liuwa

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A reasonable first safari?

For bat lovers, the bat trip to Kasanka would be perfect. For anyone wanting to see the typical African safari animals plus something COMPLETELY different and off the beaten path (the 2 RPS trips of Kasanka, Bangweulu & Liwua), tacking on some time in South Africa first would provide a well rounded trip and an excellent flow.


Even without South Africa, the RPS Kasanka Bat safari itinerary first spends 3 nights in South Luangwa where lion and leopard, along with elephant and buffalo, are commonly seen. But no rhino. I omitted the South Luangwa part of the Kasanka & Bangweulu trip solely due to the Thanksgiving conflict.


I ended my safari with 4 nights at Phinda in South Africa (separate report that will be linked at the end of this report) and even visited egg laying turtles, which is also unusual. Phinda is a good place to see cheetah, plus rhino, and even lions.


If one started in the Sabi Sands of South Africa (renowned for reliable Big 5 sightings), which is logical because flights are often routed through the Johannesburg hub, that would be an ideal introduction to safari. Maybe add Phinda too, if time and money permit (especially if cheetah are a fav and if it is far enough into Nov for turtle egg laying) then head to Zambia for the RPS offerings. Heck, if time and money are highly abundant for such a trip, throw in Cape Town as the very first stop and Vic Falls maybe after RPS. What a package that would make!



....................................... ........BBC Hide, morning, Kasanka............................................................................................................................................................. Wildebeest dwarfed by Liuwa's vastness...............................................Blackwing Stilt reflection, Liuwa


Sleeping Overnight at JFK Airport

If I wanted to depart home after Thanksgiving on 22 Nov and arrive Mfuwe no later than 25 Nov, I had only one flight plan and it was on South Africa Air from O’Hare to JFK with an overnight layover. Not wanting to boost my trip cost any higher than it was with a NYC hotel, I opted for an o/nt in JFK.


I checked that website “sleeping in airports” and it was ok. http://www.sleepinginairports.net/


Terminal 4 is the place to be for an overnight and where my next day’s flight departed from. The whole terminal was well lit and very safe with hustle, bustle and foot traffic throughout the night, plus lots of friendly (though sometimes noisy) security and maintenance people.


Once the major construction is completed for Terminal 4, there should be even more places to crash and fewer cold drafts. Even so, there were several rounded cement benches/surfaces that allowed a five-and-a-half foot frame to stretch out comfortably. These cement structures were not in heavy demand and offered vacancy throughout the night. The sought-after, long, padded benches/seats near a few food vendors were in shorter supply, but I finally scored one of those about 3 am. Some people pulled those trendy tall pub tables together to make a flat surface to lie on, but one wrong toss or turn and it was a long way down to the hard ground. Ouch, or worse.


I'd do it again, if need be.


Other sleeping creatures on the trip besides me in Terminal 4 of JFK:


Hyena resting with spoonbills -- seen in Liuwa not Terminal 4 of JFK ............................................... One surviving male lion sleeping -- also in Liuwa and not the airport

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The Zambian adapter

Throughout the country the plugs and outlets looked just like this. It requires a type G adapter, identical to the plug. The ability to recharge conveniently was possible everywhere I stayed.




To be continued...

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Your trip reports get more esotericically useful every time. Think you thought of everything? Read an Atravelynn report and think again... stand out question that I didn't even know existed so far...


What is the perfect first African safari for a bat lover?


This looks like a really well thought out trip - by all of you, Robin Pope and Rod Tether.

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Question: When to see animals en Masse.


So little is known about these wildebeest and it all depends on the rains. It was raining heavily in parts of Liuwa, but not in other parts.


From what I understand, enmasse is a rarity and not predictable. The role of the zebra in the migration is uncertain also They are not even sure of the patterns after mid-December because of the inaccessibility of the plains.

About 60 of the wildes were collared to help answer many questions.


Upon arrival in Liuwa, the longtime RPS guide, Jason Alfonso, stated that the wildebeest migration is not one of Liuwa's top prizes. I was a little surprised to hear that but we all agreed with Jason after just a day or two in Liuwa that other features of the place surpass the wildes scattered about.


Discussions about migrations has been deleted.


Leave it to Professor .... to answer that question!


On 1/18/2013 at 9:49 AM, pault said:

What is the perfect first African safari for a bat lover?

I tried to find the term for a bat lover but only came up with Chiropterologist for someone who studies bats.


Thank you all.

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Just looking at the flowers and cranes and rainstorms and rainbows and hyenas and LL + dogs ... I think you're so right that the wildies actually seem more background than foreground.


Love the classic bat + moon photos. And Kapotwe! What a cutie. That name sounds straight out of No 1 D Agency, doesn't it?


What fun to read this, Lynn! Thank you.

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Thank you again, Professor ..... I'm reading the first No 1 DA again right now for a book club, Sangeeta.

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Nov 25 Day 1, Arrival in S. Luangwa

Lusaka from JFK on SAA involved about 18 hours, several good plane meals, snacks galore, five movies of my choice, nobody in the seats next to me, and a plane change in Joburg. Zambian visa was $50 USD for US citizens, obtained upon arrival, no hassles.


A rep from Tours Africa (I think that is what it is now called) met me in the Lusaka airport and allowed me to curl up and nap for an hour in their office and even send a quick email home, the exact procedure as four years ago.


All the major Zambian camps use this meet-and-greet service. The rep helped me pay the domestic departure tax, which now must be paid in Kwachas (58,000 I believe), not dollars. ATMs and banks for changing money are readily available at the airport. My international departure tax of 156,000 Kwachas was included in the SAA ticket fare (booked online at www.flysaa.com/)


Proflight was 3/4 full for the 16:10-17:20 Lusaka-Mfuwe flight (booked online at http://proflight-zambia.com/). One hour road transfer from Mfuwe airport to Nkwali Camp. The first animal of the safari was noted—elephant—off in the distance.


I met my fellow travelmates who had spent the last 3 days together exploring South Luangwa: Hugh & Wendy, who had visited Liuwa a few years ago in May and were frequent Pope camp visitors; Helge, a photojournalist for the German version of Africa Geographic on a pan-Africa journey that commenced with the bats; Graham a dendrologist (woody plants expert), fungus handbook author, and Livingstone scholar on both a holiday and research mission; and guide Jacob. Delightful bunch!



Chiropterophilus & Chiropterophila participants plus Chiropterophilus Guide



Approximations for South Luangwa: Sunrise = 5:15. Sunset = 18:15. High temps = They told me upper 90s F in the day and it felt like mid 80s F at night.

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Nov 26 Day 2, Depart Nkwali to Kasanka & 1st Bat Visit

With only a few hours in Nkwali and South Luwangwa I was out and about at 5:15. Puku were drinking across the river and baboons were running past the pool.


View from Nkwali


In that brief morning at Nkwali we managed to see a Sun Squirrel and several Trumpeter Hornbills. In fact, while sitting on the ensuite, open air loo in my tent, I looked up to see a Trumpeter Hornbill in the tree. Always wearing my binocular harness I did a little birdwatching. Talk about multi-tasking!


7:30 am depart Nkwali by road to Mfuwe, no photo opps presented themselves.

8:30 arrive Mfuwe

9:15-10:25 Flight to Kasanka airstrip with Skytrails, 2 planes with Pilots Brad and Steve. 58,000 Kwacha departure tax required.


Skies over Kasanka


Arrive at Wasa Lodge at 10:45 to the welcome site of 3 sitatunga, visible from the main lodge, in a gorgeous setting! That sight made the many hours/days of travel worthwhile.


View from Wasa Lodge


After lunch we rested and enjoyed the lagoon in front of camp, filled with puku and a couple of sitatunga now and then. Through binoculars, we noted the extreme shagginessof the sitatunga.


Sitatunga at Wasa camp - shaggy coat


We sampled some waterberries, the preferred food of fruit bats, that grew on bushes all around camp. Tart and tasty. Wasa also has a viewing tower about 12 meters up, reached by stairs, for overlooking the lagoon.


Waterberries at Wasa Lodge, bat food

Edited by Atravelynn
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Still Nov 26 Day 2, Depart Nkwali to Kasanka & 1st Bat Visit


Approximations for Kasanka: Sunrise = 5:30. Sunset = 18:40. High temps = about 90 F, but rarely that high. Some days were high of maybe 72 F. Lows at night were probably 60 F.


16:00 depart for the bats, with a leisurely game drive first. Crowned Francolins were a good start and then one of my most unusual and astounding safari experiences ever occurred. And it did not even involve an animal.


Webby, the driver, spotted a very large and rare mushroom in the thicket on a dirt mound. It was unusual enough for him to stop, get out of the vehicle, inspect it, and then motion for the guests to come look. Graham was especially interested and soon announced, "This is Termitomycies Titanicus.” He went on to tell us that when he was studying fungi in Zambia and Zimbabwe many years ago, he and his colleague “discovered” and named this very fungus! We were impressed with his humility in naming it after the striking feature of its huge size, as opposed to the founder’s name. Later, Graham pulled out the fungus guide book he had co-authored, and pointed out this mushroom. It read :“Largest agaric mushroom jealously guarded by local mushroom hunters. Shona - Zhou Churu - meaning elephant on the anthill.” And that’s just what it looked like.


I asked Webby if he had known Graham was a fungus expert and if that is why he stopped. Webby replied that he had no idea who the occupants of his vehicle were. What a coincidence and fungus-centered no less!



Webby and Fungus Expert Graham inspecting his Termitomycies Titanicus


We parked the vehicle at the public bat lookout and were ready to walk about 5 minutes to the BBC bat viewing hide when one of Kasanka’s three herds of elephants emerged from the palms about 200 meters away. The herd crossed the open plain in front of us. What a lucky sighting! We saw about 20 elephants, which surprisingly was a larger herd than any that had been seen in South Luangwa.






Elephants in Kasanka



post-108-0-30140500-1358560671_thumb.png BATS #1 in the BBC hide

Approx 17:45 to 19:15. After the first 15 minutes of en masse bat departures from the forest down below, there was a lull in the action. “Hmmm, the photos we’ve seen of this place showed a lot more bats,” we all remarked, peering into the darkening bat forest and hoping for a second act.



Nice clouds, but we wondered where all the bats were. BBC hide evening


The next wave was the big one that filled the sky with bats. It was not the only time there seemed to be crescendo-ing waves of bats with a definite lull between waves.


The BBC hide has two levels and we all flocked up to the top, about 20 meters up. Hugh soon descended to the lower level about 3 meters below. Comparing the two, he felt the lower level offered a better angle for the bats. On our subsequent visits to this BBC hide, we all concurred and manned the lower level of the hide.



The sky filled with bats.......................................................................................................and even more bats. BBC hide evening


Checking my photos later, I realized that unless the running guy button was used, even in 1/10th of a second continuous shoot, the bats were all blurry, especially as it got darker or with any zoom attempt.


Blurry bats without the running guy button, even with 10 shots/second


So between the photography learning curve and the different skies and atmosphere, it was nice to have several bat visits. We had five.


The return trip from the BBC hide to Wasa, driving straight without stops, was 40 minutes.


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What an extraordinary coincidence to have found that mushroom with the fungus expert aboard - fascinating!

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Nov 27 Day 3, Day trip to Bangweulu Shoebill Island, Swamp Walk & 2nd Bat Visit


6:45 15 minute road transfer to the airstrip

7:00 30-minute very scenic flight to Shoebill Island in Bangweulu. The Bemba translation of Bangweulu became clear from the air, “water meets sky.”



Over Bangweulu Swamp flying to Shoebill Island


On the game drive from the airstrip to Shoebill Camp we passed several herds of Black Lechwe. Some of the males still had black coloring from the mating season, but most were rusty brown, similar to the females.



Black Lechwe Shoebill Island in Bangweulu Swamp


8:30 Arrive Shoebill Camp


9:00 Depart on shoebill excursion, driving about 15 minutes, then proceeding on foot.

The swampy trek in search of the shoebill required either rubber boots or bare feet. Had I known we’d be wading through a swamp on the trip, I would have packed my aqua shoes, which would have been perfect. I chose the tall rubber boots and wore my socks inside of them. The guys all went barefoot. Wendy opted out of the excursion altogether. Later when I talked with Guide Rod Tether, he mentioned that there are sharp shells in the mud and muck and that once he really sliced up his foot on them. All the more reason for the boots—or now that you’ve been forewarned—the BYO Aqua shoes. None of our barefoot participants suffered any cuts or injuries, fortunately.


Me walking through Bangweulu Swamp in search of Shoebill


Similar to scouts locating a gorilla group, the local fisherman set out early to find the shoebill named Kapotwe and we all trailed behind. Knee-deep water and ankle-gripping muck made for slow going. When Guide Jacob offered his hand, I took it as added protection against falling in the swamp and perhaps wrecking my camera. After about an hour’s swamp walk, passing a herd of lechwe along the way, we could see the shoebill in the distance.


10:15 Shoebill!

We spent 45 minutes getting fantastic views and shots of this peculiar creature and we were elated!








11:00 Walked back to our vehicle, taking a more direct route than the one that took us to the shoebill. We washed our feet and legs at a little fishing camp before boarding the vehicle. The insides of my boots were filled to the brim with water and I wondered if I might dump out a fish.


12:00 We arrived back to camp and swapped tales with Wendy, who had remained behind and photographed some small lizards and rodents in the loo of one of the tents, while we were out searching for shoebill. We freshened up using the showers in the tents. After a delicious lunch and a few moments of relaxation, it was time for more wildlife.

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Still Nov 27 Day 3, Day trip to Bangweulu Shoebill Island, Swamp Walk & 2nd Bat Visit


14:15-15:15 Lechwe viewing by vehicle: The Shoebill Island staff members that accompanied us knew just where the herds were and their composition, whether bachelor herds or females with young. The shy nature of these antelope offered a challenge for shots of faces and not just rumps. The May-July trips spend a night at Shoebill Camp which would allow for more time with the lechwe, when late afternoon and early morning lighting conditions are ideal.




Black Lechwe on Shoebill Island in Bangweulu Swamp


15:30 At the airstrip we found an Eastern Green Snake.


Head is in upper left corner. Eastern Green Snake


We also discovered that bees had decided to nest in our airplane, which had been parked at the airstrip since morning. It didn’t take the swarm long to realize the benefits of this rare and formidable structure which offered a protected entrance of tiny air-intake holes. They had seized the plane for their own.


Our pilot had heard of abandoned planes becoming beehives, but not planes that had been vacated a mere few hours. Complicating matters, our pilot was allergic to bee stings.


There was an office at the airstrip which fortunately had a can of Doom. Spraying was the first offensive measure. Waiting at a distance for the Doom to take effect was the second, and it produced a wave of defeated bees, departing after a few moments. Firing up the aircraft was the third assault, which sent swarms fleeing frantically in different directions. Our final offensive tactic relied on each of the three passengers. We wielded the safety cards from the seatbacks and swatted as we taxied down the airstrip, killing an additional four intruders. We had successfully retaken the plane and ascended into the heavens, victorious!


4:15 arrival back at Kasanka airstrip, a quick pitstop back at Wasa to reshuffle from shoebill gear to bat gear.


Vehicles in Kasanka and Bangweulu

In Bangweulu: 2 rows, completely open. We used one vehicle for 5 guests, Guide Jacob, a local driver and a local guide.


In Kasanka: enclosed cab, 2 completely open rows. We used one vehicle for 5 guests, Guide Jacob, and Driver Webby.



Bangweulu vehicle, usually they used the newer one.

Edited by Atravelynn
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Still Nov 27 Day 3, Day trip to Bangweulu Shoebill Island, Swamp Walk & 2nd Bat Visit


post-108-0-28228700-1358564790_thumb.pngBATS #2 at the Thatched (Bupata) Hide

Approx 17:45 to 16:45

There were three sections to this ground-level hide. We all found the right-most section, when facing the hide, to be best.


Thatched Hide, evening


As the evening wore on we exited the hide and enjoyed the 180° of bats, horizon to horizon.


Outside the Thatched Hide, evening


Getting to/from this hide required walking a good 10 minutes along a path engulfed in steep grass where dried mud had formed crevices and holes underfoot. No problem on the way there, but on the way back in the dark, visibility was limited, even with a torch, so odds of twisting an ankle on uneven ground increased. We decided to leave our bats while the glow of the sunset still cast some light that lit the pot-holed path.


As one of the torch-bearers on our march out, I tried to illuminate the ground for the torchless behind me. As an additional warning with a good measure of jest, I also announced the size of the various holes. “Slight divot on the left.” “Mind the gap.” “Ditch to the right.” “Crevice Titanicus!”


The return trip from the Thatched hide to Wasa, driving straight without stops, was 40 minutes.


I had some excitement that evening and during the night. First, when I untied the gathered mosquito net above the bed, a small bat (not fruit bat) ended up inside the netted canopy. My attempts to encourage it to head into the night were for naught. Though I felt a little foolish, I tracked down Jacob and asked for help in shooing the bat out of the room. OUTSIDE of the net, the bat would have made a fine insect eating roommate. But INSIDE the net was too much togetherness for me.



Small insectivore bat inside my mosquito netting. It did not spend the night.


Later that night I noted several bats of various types/sizes on the outside of my screened window over my bed, probably digesting some of the nearby waterberries. Bats (or some creatures) could also be heard hopping on the roof at times during the night. The idea of being surrounded throughout the night by the bats I came so far to see was rewarding.


Suddenly, in my groggy, half asleep state, I noticed two extremely skinny, droopy bats at the window screen on the opposite side of the room. Oh dear, poor emaciated fellows! Then I realized it actually was my calf-length Wigwam socks, hanging from the curtain rod and drying in the window.


Soon it was time to wake up.

Edited by Atravelynn
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Delightful, love the skinny bats, love all the stories and photos.

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I really want to see a shoebill now! :D

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