Safari: South Luangwa July/August 2011

[ZaminOz]

I was wondering how best to use my 2,000th post on safaritalk, and thought what better way than to finally start a long overdue trip report!

So, without much further procrastination, here it is:

 

In July / August 2011, Mrs ZaminOz, Mast ZaminOz and I spent 12 nights in South Luangwa with the Bushcamp Company, staying three nights at each of Mfuwe Lodge, Kuyenda, Chamilandu and Chindeni.

 

Photographic Kit, for those interested in such:

Yours truly: Pentax K7, Pentax 55-300, Sigma 70-200 f2.8 HSM, tripod (that only got occasional use).

Mrs ZaminOz: Pentax K-x, Pentax 18-250, Sigma 50-150 f2.8 HSM

Mast ZaminOz: Canon Powershot S2 IS (5 mega pix, 36-432mm 12x optical zoom) – an old camera of the wife’s.

 

Part 1 – Mfuwe Lodge

 

Normally I wouldn’t opt to stay at a lodge as large as Mfuwe and would prefer to do all the nights at a smaller bush camp, but given that the rate at Mfuwe Lodge is cheaper than the bush camps and we had to make a saving somewhere we opted to do the first three nights at Mfuwe for budget considerations. I have got to say at the outset though that despite my preference for small remote bush camps, I really enjoyed our 3 nights at Mfuwe far more than I had expected to. This I think was largely due to the fact that although large and heavily built, Mfuwe is actually quite attractive and very comfortable. The chalets are great and the public areas very open with a lot of game to be seen in and around the lodge every day, form very comfy viewing and sitting areas. But above all else the staff there are to a person fantastic and I suppose though it is a bit of a cliché; you really are made feel like a long lost family member returning home.

 

We arrived at Mfuwe Airport mid-late afternoon and were met by Onascious who was to be our private guide throughout our stay. Given that we were staying in 3 bush camps with a small child we were required to have a private vehicle for Kuyenda, Chamilandu and Chindeni (which Bushcamp Company provided to us for a reasonable price). Onascious had guided us in 2010 and as we knew that he is great with kids and had got along well with Mast ZaminOz we had asked that he guide us again. Although we did not pay for a private vehicle for Mfuwe Lodge (not required), we were provided with one anyway, so we ended up not having to share a vehicle once.

 

Some photos from the drive from the airport:

 

 

 

After the long journey to get there we didn’t rush straight out for a night drive, instead we just settled into our chalet which was a nice two story suit at the far north end of the lodge with a single bed for Mast ZaminOz upstairs and a king downstairs. After that we went to the main lounge/bar/deck area to relax and watch the sun go down - for some reason none of us took photos of this, possibly because we were busy chatting with the lodge staff.

 

So the next morning we were off on our first game drive.

We saw a fair amount of general game, but nothing that one would call a spectacular sighting (that is unless like me you consider just being back in Africa on safari spectacular enough, in which case it was all spectacular!).

 

Here is a cross section of the sightings:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A monkey:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[ZaminOz]

Back at Mfuwe lodge for brunch and the mid-day siesta period after there was lots of wildlife to be seen around. Mast ZaminOz commandeered my camera and took the following photos:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For the afternoon game drive we were joined by Phillip, a spotter, who was hoping to pass his driving test soon and was studying to take the guide’s exam. Onascious was mentoring him as well. Phillip would travel with us to all the bush camps and act as spotter for all the afternoon/night drives. The afternoon/evening game drive produced much the same as the morning except with more elephants and a fleeting sighting of a young leopardess hunting:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[ZaminOz]

Early in the morning drive next day we came across a pair of lions in courtship. They were not in the mood to be photographed it seems keeping at some distance from the track.

 

 

 

 

 

We left the young lovers after about an hour, by which time 3 other vehicles from other lodges had arrived.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

During the morning drive we stopped for coffee opposite the old Chinzombo site (the original Chinzombo camp was mostly washed away by the river one rainy season many years ago, but since these photos were taken it has been rebuilt by Norman Carr Safaris as an uber luxury camp – not really to my taste to be honest).

 

 

 

 

 

 

The morning drive ended with a bush brunch in a stand of African ebony near the site of Norman Carr’s grave.

 

 

 

[ZaminOz]

Following the brunch we drove back to Mfuwe Lodge and while Mrs ZaminOz indulged herself at the Spa, Mast ZaminOz and I chillaxed in the chalet. A small family of elephants arrived just below our balcony for a drink. I picked up Mrs ZaminOz’ camera and videoed them for a while.

I also snapped some stills, below:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Waiting his turn to drink...

 

Calf getting bolshy at some impala:

 

 

[ZaminOz]

That day was also Mast ZaminOz’ 5th birthday.

The gang at Mfuwe Lodge had arranged a surprise birthday cake at afternoon tea before the game drive served on the small library deck overlooking Mfuwe lagoon.

 

Photos courtesy of Mrs ZaminOz:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

While taking these photos, Mrs ZaminOz, who is generally a magnet to tsetse flies, mosquitos and any other biting insect, was then promptly bitten by a spider that had found its way into a trouser leg! Lucy (guest relations, photo above) rushed her into the privacy of the library to check the bite, while in the meantime Onascious found the dead spider where Mrs ZaminOz had been standing (and subsequently hopping around), and identified it as one that has a painful bite, but no known after effects. After the little birthday party was over and Mrs ZaminOz had been treated with some locally applied antihistamine we set off on a delayed evening game drive. I think the sun was already near the horizon by the time we made it out.

 

Here are some of photos from the night drive:

 

 

 

Puff adder:

 

[ZaminOz]

The next morning we left for Kuyenda.

 

Some comments about the Mfuwe area:

As was to be expected there was a lot of game in the area and I don’t think we were disappointed in any way with any of the game drives. Apart from the pair of lions and a single leopard at night we saw no other big cats there. They were no doubt around, but luck plays a roll and it just was not with us for cats. Also as to be expected there was a fair amount of vehicle traffic. Not a terrible amount, but enough to notice the difference with the bush camps. That said it was a long weekend when we were there and I would estimate that at least 50% of the other vehicle traffic was self-drivers in rooftop tented vehicles or in Hilux pickups (many with RSA licence plates).

 

Self-drivers behaving badly (Mfuwe area): One thing that I noticed and that shocked me and which I discussed with Onascious and Phillip, was the reckless behaviour of not all but some of these self-drivers. They all seemed obsessed with finding lions, which in itself is fine, but they would race around above the speed limits with dust billowing behind them in a hurry to find lions, which is not so fine. Often they would screech to a halt next to our Landover when passing and yell out “have you seen any lions?” “Where are the lions?” But what disturbed me the most was that “in” many of these vehicles were families with kids. Invariably the kids would be sitting on top of the roof top tent, sometimes (but not always), with a strap across their laps, while dad raced around at excessive speed looking for lions. That is a tragedy waiting to happen. Onascious told me that he sees that behaviour from self-drivers frequently. He said that they stay inside the vehicle when they cross the bridge into the park, but once out of sight of the ZAWA checkpoint they all climb out and ride around on the roof, or sometimes the bonnet. While we were at Mfuwe it was a long weekend so the area was busier than usual. The culprits appeared to be mainly local expats (mostly from RSA judging by their accents) in Zambian registered vehicles, and a few RSA registered vehicles.

[twaffle]

Excellent, thank you for remembering to share your safari with us. I especially love the croc in the green water stuff (scientific name! ) and what a wonderful 5th brithday for Master ZO, lucky boy. He has pretty good style as a photographer. Looking forward to more.

[ZaminOz]

Excellent, thank you for remembering to share your safari with us. I especially love the croc in the green water stuff (scientific name! ) and what a wonderful 5th brithday for Master ZO, lucky boy. He has pretty good style as a photographer. Looking forward to more.

The green stuff is Nile Cabbage... that's about as scientific as the naming gets from me!

Thanks, yeah Mast ZO is quite an photog enthusiast

[ZaminOz]

Part 2 – Kuyenda

 

After three nights at Mfuwe lodge we did a morning game drive transfer to Kuyenda bush camp which takes you south of the central Mfuwe area and over the rocky Chichele hills, then down into the valley proper again to the dry Manzi River, and Kuyenda.

 

Sampling of images from the drive to Kuyenda:

 

 

 

 

I need a longer lens for birds!

 

 

 

 

Pit stop. (You will notice that the Landrover has a canopy frame but no canopy. This is because I hate canopies on game drive vehicles and always request that they remove it - which they happily do.

At every camp we stayed at, as soon as other guests realised that we had requested the canopy removal, they did likewise.)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

First sight of Kuyenda camp:

[ZaminOz]

We got to Kuyenda in time for brunch where we were warmly welcomed by Phil Berry and his partner Babette, along with the rest of the staff.

 

Before brunch was served Babette asked us which chalet we preferred - either the biggest one (ie most comfortable for three of us) which is the furthest from the chitenje (dining) area, or the closest (but smaller chalet). Normally with our son we would request the closest one to the chitenje as it reduces the danger walking to and from your tent/chalet in the less well lit hours (and I would recommend this practice for most parents with small children). However at Kuyenda we opted for the larger (further) chalet as Mast ZaminOz by this stage in his life had already stayed at a few small and remote bush camps and I was comfortable in my mind that he would not venture anywhere alone. I or Mrs ZaminOz always walk with him from chalet/tent to dining area even if it is in broad daylight and the distance is short enough to watch him all the way. He also knows that he is not allowed to run from one to the other but must always walk and keep aware of everything around him.

 

The other reason for selecting the bigger chalet was because Phil and Babette loaned Mast ZaminOz the camp’s collection of small wooden African animals and (while we were out on a game drive) had the staff build a sandpit of river sand for him in the open air bathroom, in which they built a waterhole (which could be filled with a plastic cup from the tap) and a little Mopani forest of sticks and twigs.

After brunch we settled into our thatched chalet and the camp in general:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our first game drive from Kuyenda took us to (IMO) some of the most visually engaging areas of the park (unfortunately my photos don’t seem to do it justice):

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sundowners were atop the Chichele Hills (photo courtesy Mrs ZaminOz):

 

Followed by the night drive:

Sharpe's Grysbok

 

White tailed mongoose:

[ZaminOz]

The Kuyenda chalets have large open windows (with wire mesh) facing out over a small grass plain and the dry Manzi river bed. A beautiful way to wake up in the mornings.

 

 

[ZaminOz]

That morning our drive took us to the Luangwa river floodplain south of Puku Ridge where we encountered two lionesses and a young male who refused any form of photographic cooperation by lying in long grass and not doing anything particularly National-Geographicesque.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

...getting carried away with landscape photos much...?

 

 

[ZaminOz]

Continuing the morning drive:

 

 

 

 

 

 

The afternoon’s pre-game drive tea included the leftovers of Mast ZaminOz, birthday cake, which Onascious had transported from Mfuwe, and the Kuyenda camp staff put on a second birthday celebration for Mast ZaminOz

with the whole camp staff turning out to sing happy birthday and a traditional Kunda celebration song which was totally unexpected and very touching. I videoed most of this so photos are few:

In the afternoon we came across the same three lions who had exerted themselves to move about 100 meters from the site of their morning siesta, and were now engaged in afternoon siesta.

 

 

 

 

This buffalo, who was part of a small herd, was nearby keeping a watchful eye on his nemesis.

 

 

Driving on we came across this heavily pregnant giraffe seeing off a lurking hyena. The hyena apparently got the message and didn’t seem to be returning.

(Apologies for the poor picture quality as I didn’t have time to think about settings):

 

 

 

 

 

[M107 – 114]

 

This – better – photo is courtesy of Mrs ZaminOz.

The Pentax K-x really is a good user friendly camera. Either that or she is just a better photographer than me. I suspect the latter!

 

 

 

 

 

[ZaminOz]

After dark, following a waddling hippo roadblock, we came across the same three lions but now they were manoeuvring around the small herd of buffalo from the afternoon.

They disappeared over the lip of a sandy ravine to where the buffalo were in long grass. There was some commotion, some dust, and then the three lions came scampering back out of the ravine

and soon wandered off into long grass, clearly in search of an easier meal than grumpy buffalo.

 

 

 

 

 

 

For our next day at Kuyenda the lions seemed to have vanished, and leopards were making themselves scarce too, but there were a lot of elephant buffalo and general game around so it was a pleasant day:

I realise now in going through my photos that there are many photos that I thought I took, but don’t have – some scenes that Mrs ZaminOz photographed I did not. It now dawns on me that this is because I videoed them instead. Clearly I am no multi-tasker!

Photo courtesy of Mrs ZaminOz (this elephant got very annoyed with the impala in the background as well as some baboons, who are out of shot, and chased them all around a tree, trumpeting loudly):

[pault]

I am too shocked to say anything.... @@ZaminOz is posting a trip report. Remember the day! Remember where you were!

 

Only two years old as well. I think I need to lie down.

 

I'll read this in the evening. Great idea for your 2000th post. Well done!

[ZaminOz]

Phillip waiting to mount up for the evening drive:

 

 

Mast ZaminOz and Babette finish up their inspection of Back Of House and discuss improvements:

 

 

The last afternoon/evening drive at Kuyenda produced no cats and nothing out of the ordinary other than a porcupine that tried to out run the Landrover for a good 50 meters before pulling over to the side:

 

 

 

 

 

 

[ZaminOz]

Our last wake up at Kuyenda had us rise with a herd of buffalo close around the chalet. I snuck out of bed and grabbed Mrs ZaminOz’ camera from the bedside stand and quietly (or so I thought) tried to take some photos of them, but one forgets sometimes just how finely tuned a buffalo is to any movement or sound. Just the act of standing up had them giving off an indignant snort and thundering away from the chalet. I got couple of shots as they disappeared:

 

 

 

Edited September 20, 2013 by ZaminOz

[africapurohit]

@@ZaminOz you are on a roll! Lovely photos that capture the beauty of SL. The little man with the camera round his neck is fantastic and he know's how to use it .

 

Did you buy the birthday present in South Luangwa?

 

It's just great to see another trip report of a safari with a young child!

[ZaminOz]

@@africapurohit

Thanks

No we bought the birthday present in Perth and lugged it with us secretly. The idea was to bring something that he could play with and keep him entertained during the quiet midday hours. As it turns out that wasn't necessary since he was happy to just try and game view with binoculars from the camp... or sleep/siesta.

[africapurohit]

You're lucky! My boy refused to sleep in the afternoons, so the iPad was my saviour.

[TonyQ]

@@ZaminOz

I have really enjoyed reading this and seeing wonderful photos that really give a flavour of the area

It is good that you like landscapes - I tend to forget to photograph them!

 

Kuyenda looks a really nice camp - the right level of comfort without going over the top

 

It is great that a young child can enjoy all of this!

[ZaminOz]

You're lucky! My boy refused to sleep in the afternoons, so the iPad was my saviour.

Yeah, we didn't have an iPad back then... now he can't live without his iPad!

Actually it was a fellow guest at Kuyenda that introduced him to the addiction of iPad games such as Fruit Ninja or something!

[ZaminOz]

On 9/20/2013 at 11:16 AM, TonyQ said:

@@ZaminOz

I have really enjoyed reading this and seeing wonderful photos that really give a flavour of the area

It is good that you like landscapes - I tend to forget to photograph them!

 

Kuyenda looks a really nice camp - the right level of comfort without going over the top

 

It is great that a young child can enjoy all of this!

Thanks @@TonyQ, as @GameWarden, @@pault, @@twaffle,  @@Sangeeta and numerous other will attest to, getting a trip report out of me is harder than getting blood out of a stone...

but with compliments like that I will be inclined to keep writing!

[ZaminOz]

With the Bushcamp Company the usual routine when transferring to another camp is to do your morning activity (drive in our case because of the boy), return for brunch, pack up and then drive to your next camp. So this was our last game drive at Kuyenda and fortunately it was not as quiet as the day before:

 

 

 

 

 

We came across the same group of two lionesses and young male that we had seen previously. At first they were just perfecting their lying in the shade and doing nothing technique (which probably didn’t need that much practice):

 

 

 

 

Despite the near presence of some juicy looking kudu.

 

 

Then a Puku Ridge Landcruiser arrived bearing two ladies bristling more lenses than the quills on last night’s porcupine (any fellow safaritalkers care to fess up?). Well they probably were NOT safaritalkers because their talking was far too loud and this seemed to disturb the lions who got up and move to a different spot where they could better perfect their somnolent repose:

 

 

 

 

With the arrival of a Landcruiser from Kafunta River Lodge they must have realised that their morning of sleep was over and they might as well do something spectacular for the paying tourists, and thinking big, they seemed to focus on a lone teenage elephant about 60 meters away. Led by the male they began to approach the young elephant:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At about the 30 meter mark male lion’s nerve left him and he stopped and then lay down to watch.

 

 

 

His sisters held their nerve until they got to about 20 to 15 meters from the elephant. Then they too lay down, still watching the elephant (who was on the left hand side of our Landover, while the lions where to the right). However with the elephant either oblivious to their presence or nonchalantly indifferent to it, and with the male bravely guarding from counter attack to the rear, the lionesses didn’t seem willing to do more than watch. So after the elephant wandered off we left the lions in peace.

 

 

[ZaminOz]

On the way back we had good sightings of zebra, egret, saddle-billed stork (damn you blade of grass!) and some elephants.