Kwando Lagoon/Lebala June/July 2014

[madaboutcheetah]

Thanks so much, folks ..........

 

Michael ....... So, want to start planning - depends on work schedule for next year ......... hoping sometime in the winter (loved the light for photography in june/july before the fires begin). Thanks - the "kuduettes" just was lucky I think.

 

I had to work really hard to get - Crimson breasted shrike(been trying for years and finally got it) and the puppies on certain days (manual focus due to the vegetation).

 

In the meanwhile, I look to reading your report from Kenya coming SOON ........... especially the Mara - and hope that you will bring me back news of Malaika and her litter of 6 cubs ..........

[Big_Dog]

A stunning conclusion with several excellent momemnts of beautifully captured behaviour; cheetahs eating warthog, lioness chasing giraffes and dynamic and / or endearing pup and cub photos. Also that stare by King Booker...

Another Botswana epic by Kwando and Safaritalk's finest!

[madaboutcheetah]

Thanks so much @@Big_Dog .........

[Soukous]

Fabulous cheetah photos to finish with Hari. One day I must make it to Kwando.

[madaboutcheetah]

Thanks @@Soukous - you must visit!!!

[Big_Dog]

@@madaboutcheetah - Something I thought I'd ask, is has Kwando changed much in your time going there? With a lot of Botswana places I've seen some long-time goers say how they now feel less rustic, authentic and original and more money-making luxury. I think your earliest report (on here at least) of Kwando was 2008 and it may not have changed much in the 5 years, after all they've been around since the earlier 2000's at least to my knowledge, but I thought I'd ask a veteran anyway to see if much has changed?

[madaboutcheetah]

@@Big_Dog ..... a fair question. I have been going to Kwando since 2004 ...... Definitely some changes since I was first going there - comparing say, 2004/2005 to 2013/2014 .......... Ofcourse, the two camps Lagoon and Lebala that exist today is completely different to what it looked like (physical appearance) when we first started going .... they had to make the changes ofcourse since the camps shelf-life is only so much that renovation was needed (the extent of luxury though ...... i suppose is all relative)

 

Some changes - ofcourse, I find some clientele still the very much hard core safari goer; while some others not so much (more and more such people nowadays.......). In the early days, hard core tracking was the norm - now, many people lack the patience to endure that (not even sure some/many of the new trackers are capable of this?) ..... It is an unfair comment ofcourse, since I have not experienced too many other guides/trackers and so don't know their skill set personally .....

 

Like everything else in life, definitely has changed over the course of time.

 

With Spencer and Mr.Moe in charge of my safari (i will have it no other way ...... the experience is awesome and I Thank Kwando for that experience) ........... We don't respond to the radio (except something exceptional like a pangolin ) and don't believe in radio-controlled game viewing (we however have to call in sightings due to the rules- I have no problem with that) ....... cars come and go - they seldom have patience to stay too long.

 

Some of the Kwando ethos remains the same though ...... sending lunch out for you, if the situation was such that you wanted to stay out with active cheetah etc etc., ........ AWESOME

 

The two Kwara camps - I'm not sure I can comment too much - I was last there at LK in Feb 2011. To me Kwara is very much an early green season wonderland when more access is available for game drives. It's more a dog destination now than during my early visits .........

The Kwando concession itself - a lot of the Eastern section of the concession (old airstrip and beyond) has been under permanent flood water for a few years now. Gradually some portions of the Eastern sections have been a bit more dry last year or so ..... should come back to prime conditions in a couple of years i think.

Edited September 1, 2014 by madaboutcheetah

[madaboutcheetah]

How can I forget - when I first started going ....... they had this bizarre full lunch at 4pm in the afternoon ....... Full breakfast when you return to camp (used to be almost lunch time in those days - say, noon time) ....... Dinner was very relaxed and included items on the menu like Ostrich fillet etc etc.,

 

Nowadays - I find travel agents selling mixed itineraries as the norm - i.e., clients booked in camps run by different operators - I find some people just dilly dallying with their morning coffee and muffins before getting into the morning game drive .......... it was bizarre how late they started on some days. I feel like Kwando is now obligated to these Vumbura going folk by providing muffins, cereal etc etc.,(a certain standard product to cater to) first thing in the morning. I'm not suggesting they starve by any stretch - but, this seems like an endless process!! ............ All of this is of course, not my business - but, when they get into the car a good half hour plus later and want to know "what are the updates" every morning - sort of pisses you off sometimes???

 

(I don't intend to offend any of the readers here with my Vumbura comment - you might be a visitor there) - ..... I'm sure it's a fabulous camp. Just meant a Standardized product with that analogy.

 

I may have mentioned elsewhere - I much prefer the East African model - coffee brought with wake up call; Bush breakfast; normal lunch and normal dinner ....... No Junk food i.e., the High Tea!!!!

Edited September 1, 2014 by madaboutcheetah

[Bush dog]

@@Big_Dog

 

Entirely on the same wavelength as Hari. I went in 2003 for the first time and in 2011 for the last time. It changed of course and I would called those changes "light luxury" changes, but a great part of the spirit remained

 

But from what I know, the perfect example of coming from rustic, authentic and original, to use your words, to real luxury, is Selinda and the unforgettable Zibalianja camp. I went there from 1998 to 2007, every year and sometimes twice a year. During those 9 years, they made some changes (entrance door instead of zip, thatched roof above the tent,...) but nothing spectacular. The whole lot toppled over when Brian Graham decided to sell the business. The new owners changed the Selinda main building and the conception of the tents, closed Zibalianja and created Zarafa, making it a de luxe camp, and with Brian and his staff, the spirit disappeared. I seize the opportunity to evoke the concession's manager, the late André Maertens, who was a great guide and story teller and also Kanawe Ntema, another great guide, who is for me what Spencer is for Hari an who recently retired from the business.

[michael-ibk]

Thanks, Hari and @@Bush dog , very interesting to read your thoughts on this. What I noticed was how people commented on Kwara - lots of guests didn´t approve of the "small" tents. Understandable if one compares with the luxury at Lagoon, but really - it´s in the middle of nowhere, and what more does one need than a good bed and a shower? I´d rather have it the (still luxurious IMO) Kwara way if it meant lower prices. (I assume prices must have quadrupled since both of you first went to Kwando.)

 

About spending time at coffee and high tea - I´m not sure if it´s the guests, it more felt like a pretty fixed routine having ca. 20 minutes for breakfast and 15 minutes in the afternoon, only then would the guides ask if we were ready to go. And in one camp all four of our "jeep group" were finished with coffee in 10 minutes and just standing around waiting to go. Probably our own fault, we didn´t want to rush the guide and he probably didn´t want to rush us. And in other cases as a guest sharing the car I´d have felt a bit uncomfortable asking the others if they were ready to go already. (I would if it took too long, though, but that was not my experience. Luckily all people we shared with were eager to start with the game drive.)

 

About tracking - can´t really judge that because of my lack of experience, but I can say that both the guys at Kwara and Lagoon definitely loved doing it. (Not really applicable with Tau Pan and Nxai Pan with offroading forbidden). Personally what made Kwando so special for me how much the guides (with one exception) seemed to love what they were doing. That was just nice to see.

[Sangeeta]

Great closing, Hari. And thank you all for sharing your thoughts on how Bots has evolved over the years as well.

[Big_Dog]

Excellent and thorough responses thank you @@madaboutcheetah , @@Bush dog 
I agree with you all, despite my greatly limited experiences, especially on taking so damn long with morning coffees and what not!
That's also a shame to hear about Zafara and Selinda (Isn't the latter owned by the Jouberts, also? ) and how Bots overall maybe slanting towards luxury over safari substance.

[madaboutcheetah]

Look at recent reviews on expert Africa and teipadvisor - people complain that they find it difficult to wake up early. Go figure .....

 

Michael, I think afternoon tea at 15 minutes is fine. It's in the morning that one must make use of first light .... Absolute best time to be out and about.

[Geoff]

Nice work Hari. Fabulous safari & some excellent images captured.

 

...and Oh!! Rule #1. Never put your camera gear away.

[madaboutcheetah]

Hahaha - for sure! I guess lazy!!!

 

Thanks so much @@Geoff

[madaboutcheetah]

Word is the dogs have left the den and the puppies are running wild with the pack - 13 Puppies along with the 8 adults. Not bad at all for the Muvumbis a pack that had such whacky dynamics; questionable bonding and inside politics ..... All's well now and hopefully this will be the making of a super Lagoon pack for years and years to come!!! Thanks to Facebook; I learnt that the pack was not far from Lagoon camp itself today.

 

@@Safaridude - your trip should be good!!!

[Safaridude]

@@madaboutcheetah

 

Thanks Hari, for the update.

[Big_Dog]

13 puppies is a pretty good yield indeed so far. Fingers crossed for pup survival!

Also the photo competition winners are to be announced over the next few days...tense stuff.

[madaboutcheetah]

@@Big_Dog ..... just saw that - Big 5 announced just now. Ouch!!!! Lost that one already ........

[Marks]

Good luck @@madaboutcheetah...did you already post any of your contest entries here?

[Big_Dog]

@@madaboutcheetah - I know! I submitted a few lions for that...but looking at past entries I guess they prefer rarer or more dynamic pics than the 'majestic lion' we've all seen before!
Still in the running for mammals, action and birds though!

[Big_Dog]

With the latest update...I am drinking from my Kwando water bottle in an attempt to appease the gods that my quite desperate entries for Camp and New Life will get a win...

Hats off to the Cheetah tackling the impala pic though!

[Kitsafari]

With the latest update...I am drinking from my Kwando water bottle in an attempt to appease the gods that my quite desperate entries for Camp and New Life will get a win...

 

Hats off to the Cheetah tackling the impala pic though!

 

i liked that picture too. the cheetah looked almost like an alien. incredible shot.

[madaboutcheetah]

Good luck @@madaboutcheetah...did you already post any of your contest entries here?

 

I did quite a few of the ones posted in this report ...... Oh well!!! It wasn't good enough for the judges ........ I will survive!!!

[Marks]

 

Good luck @@madaboutcheetah...did you already post any of your contest entries here?

 

I did quite a few of the ones posted in this report ...... Oh well!!! It wasn't good enough for the judges ........ I will survive!!!

 

 

That's a shame, but I think plenty of people enjoyed them here, at least!