Jump to content

South Luangwa & Lower Zambezi 2009 "Trip of a lifetime"


Tdgraves

Recommended Posts

Given the success of my recent Kruger comparison (http://safaritalk.net/topic/12892-my-first-kruger-self-drive-january-2013/ and

http://safaritalk.net/topic/12471-kruger-jan-2014-a-safari-of-wild-dogs-ground-hornbills-and-steenbok/

 

I thought it would be interesting to compare our original Zambia trip, with last years' trip http://safaritalk.net/topic/11702-my-first-tr-a-return-to-south-luangwa-and-lower-zambezi-national-parks/.

 

The 2009 trip was our first full-time safari (i.e. the whole holiday, rather than 3-4 days in South Africa alongside other activities). It was inspired be seeing a travel documentary which included Sausage Tree Camp in the Lower Zambezi National Park. We both loved the look of it and immediately sent off for the brochure. Then we found out how expensive it was :(

 

We were on the travel agents' mailing list for several years before we could afford a safari and we justified the expense as it would be a "once in a lifetime trip" little did we know....

 

The timing was perfect however, as my husband was born in Zambia and we would be there for his 40th birthday. Poetic. He had never been back since leaving at the age of 7.

 

Despite booking the recommended 9 months in advance, we still could only manage 2 nights in Sausage Tree, rather than the 4 we wanted, so we moved upstream (I think) to Chiawa after that.

 

We went one week earlier than last years' trip and the temperature difference was really noticeable. Stepping off of the plane in Lusaka in the early morning was really cold. For the first few morning game drives, I had 6 layers on (as well as hat, scarf and gloves) although this was partly the product of staying in Kapani first, which is outside of the park and therefore necessitated an earlier start and a 30 minute drive on tar road (i.e. fast) to get to the gates.

 

The other difference was that there used to be direct flights from Mfuwe to Lower Zambezi, however, this was in the middle of the day and even though I don't get travel sick, I was pretty close as it was so hot and bumpy. Last year we has to change planes in Lusaka and consequently got to the park much later (too late for an activity).

 

As it was our first trip, we only had one camera body, a Canon 450D to share and i bought a second hand 100-400 lens for the OH's birthday present.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kapani Camp, Mfuwe area

 

We stayed here three nights and did game drives every day. There are a naughty resident troupe of baboons who will steal the food off of your plate if they get a chance! One afternoon, the OH was having a siesta while I was sitting on the stoop, when one purposefully strode up onto the stoop and towards the doors into the bedroom - I think he wanted a nap too!! It is a nice camp, but not being inside the park makes the days longer. However, the game does seem to be highest in density near the gate.

 

We had seen this sad, skinny looking pride on an evening drive, as they walked right by the vehicle. They all looked like they could do with a decent meal. This was just over the Mfuwe bridge, less than one minute into the park.....

 

gallery_37950_1062_703261.jpg

 

One of the cheeky monkeys...

 

gallery_37950_1062_2481734.jpg

 

sunrise from the deck whilst having a coffee

 

gallery_37950_1062_411860.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_1061211.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_2243494.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_317120.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_714163.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_1588573.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_2881763.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_4793411.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_347370.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_32325.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_1266185.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_1639279.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_1624386.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_1630762.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_6046546.jpg

 

not sure how this one ended up rotated....

 

gallery_37950_1062_367446.jpg

 

This family approached while we were having a tea break

 

gallery_37950_1062_1461176.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_93863.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_2548145.jpg

 

A very famous boabab

 

gallery_37950_1062_5045077.jpg

 

Not far from here, we found a large pride of lion resting in the shade. This was where I have witnessed some of the most stupid behaviour be self-drive safariers...The guided vehicles were taking turns for their guests to get into good positions. A self-driver was fairly close but decided he waned a low angle shot, so he was lying under his bakkie taking pictures!!!!! He was obviously very sure that with their full bellies, human wouldn't be on the menu....

 

gallery_37950_1062_2047449.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_1491613.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_2094632.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_2950928.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_146359.jpg

 

This was actually outside of the park, just beyond the gate on our way back for brunch

 

gallery_37950_1062_909585.jpg

 

This beautiful leopard walked right past our vehicle - so tempting to reach out and stroke her

 

gallery_37950_1062_1869499.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_598367.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_1237102.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_2278027.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_269626.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_5154530.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_4542923.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_2421344.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_1271497.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_1310545.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_2186908.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@@Tdgraves

A great idea to post this. It is always good to see Zambia!

I can see why it was not "once in a lifetime"!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is the trip that got you hooked. Lots of activity around Mfuwe and such variety, no wonder you were hooked.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Last afternoon in Mfuwe - our best lion sighting ever??

 

On our last afternoon drive, we were the only guests in the vehicle (little did we know how rarely this would happen in the future...).. Our guide spotted fresh lion tracks, very fresh lions tracks. How fresh? "In the last hour". We were instructed to keep quiet and keep our eyes open. I looked up and across the junction of the road we were on, a sleepy lioness stood up, changed position and then settled back down for her afternoon nap. When we approached we discovered that she wasn't as sleepy as lions usually are - because she was babysitting!

 

gallery_37950_1062_4060430.jpg

 

This cub was very interested and strode towards us with real purpose. The vehicles that they use there do not have drivers doors and I was convinced that he was going to jump in for a cuddle! the guide let the handbrake off and the noise diverted him....

 

gallery_37950_1062_3284686.jpg

 

You can see how close he got!!

 

gallery_37950_1062_1413438.jpg

 

His sibling was very photogenic, sitting on the other side of the vehicle, but given we only had one camera and there were no other guests, it was easy for us to move about to get the best position

 

gallery_37950_1062_571335.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_633939.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_698214.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_2371390.jpg

 

They then both moved into the middle of the road

 

gallery_37950_1062_80962.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_605779.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_2676785.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_329055.jpg

 

 

gallery_37950_1062_4023489.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_1176871.jpg

 

We had the sighting to ourselves for at least 45 mins before any other vehicles arrived. Eventually some non-tourist traffic wanted to pass and our guide suggested that we move on to allow the others closer. But it didn't matter as we had had the best of the light and behaviour. Big grins all the way back to the lodge!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes Indeed, @@Tdgraves, I can see how this started your safari addiction. What great shots.....and to have the cubs so very close; as well the leopard!

OH yes, I would have been so excited as well.

 

I can't understand how people can only go once to Africa. (with the exception of finances, of course!) As there are so many variations of a safari style and places to go. I just can't imagine NOT going. I give up quite a bit "here" to be able to go "there"....else,

 

My heart would be broken.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lovely to see pictures of your first safari, how did your OH feel when he landed back on Zambian soil?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@@Tdgraves

Those are beautiful photos of the lions - especially the 3rd from last and the last one - the two of them lying together!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lovely to see pictures of your first safari, how did your OH feel when he landed back on Zambian soil?

I'm not sure that he felt like he was "home" or anything. He was certainly glad that we did it. All of the guides liked the story -"so you are Zambian then?" was a frequent sundowner conversation. Zambia remains his favourite safari destination....only partly because of history I think

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@@TonyQ @travelynn I'm sure we would have been hooked, no matter where we went! :)

 

@@graceland I agree. We are not "allowed" to go anywhere but Africa on holiday now!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kapani

 

I have just found a few more stragglers from Kapani that had been hiding on page 2 of my gallery!! These were from the night drive on our final night.

 

gallery_37950_1062_3920966.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_4730778.jpg

 

We came around the corner to startle this hippo eating sausage tree fruits

 

gallery_37950_1062_2759074.jpg

 

And little did we know how rare it was to see a Pel's fishing owl....

 

gallery_37950_1062_1511118.jpg

 

We saw other leopards on night drives, but none as good as our first encounter.

 

En route to Nsolo

 

gallery_37950_1062_1889151.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_316829.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_2342679.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_18144.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_681984.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_964044.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nsolo Bush Camp, 2 nights

 

As I recall, there are 4 rooms here, but camp was not full. The main thrust is walking, so I think we walked in the mornings and did combination walk/drives in the evening. This meant fewer photographic opportunities, but a real taste of the bush. The location is really remote and we did not see any other vehicles whilst we were there. We had dinner in the dry river bed and we were joined one night by a leopard wandering past.

 

Zebra on foot

 

gallery_37950_1062_2200638.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_670299.jpg

 

Elephants on our front doorstep/riverbed

 

gallery_37950_1062_845372.jpg

 

This lead to a lengthy delay for lunch as the entire herd decided to come through camp, forcing us to wait on th edoorstep, for our armed escort!

 

gallery_37950_1062_2805871.jpg

 

Once we got to lunch, we found that another herd were in the "pond" right next to camp.

 

For another game drive, I had gone for a last minute toilet stop (the communal toilets being a reed hut in the car park. When I tried to get to the vehicle, everyone shouted at me to stop and I was stranded until these two decided that it was time to leave....

 

gallery_37950_1062_1558476.jpg

 

We watched this leopard stalk impala unsuccessfully for a long time.

 

gallery_37950_1062_4376947.jpg

 

On the way back to camp, we found lion in the road outside camp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

'best of the light and behaviour." It certainly was. Adorable cubs. I like those sunset to night time shots at Kapani

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This looks like a great time. So far I like the "coffee sunrise" and the spotlit hippo especially!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This looks like a great time. So far I like the "coffee sunrise" and the spotlit hippo especially!

Thanks @@Marks. I think we jumped as much as he did when we rounded a corner to stumble across him - I think the largest animal we have ever seen on a night drive! Usually lots of elephant shrew etc....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kakuli Bush Camp

 

Again, we were here two nights. We didn't walk much, as the other guests wanted to drive. Another really isolated spot and only a few rooms in camp.

 

This was the view from our tent

 

gallery_37950_1062_2030940.jpg

 

From the main deck we could look over a wet area where the elephants liked to come and eat and bathe

 

gallery_37950_1062_133767.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_230314.jpg

 

From game drives

 

gallery_37950_1062_2073181.jpg

 

Our guide sent the tracker out of the vehicle to make the maribou stork turn its' head to get a profile in the sunset!

 

gallery_37950_1062_228358.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_531173.jpg

 

Our first ever eland

 

gallery_37950_1062_1172474.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_788015.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_776547.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_1291153.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_196822.jpg

 

We found a pride o lions digesting their food next to the river.

 

gallery_37950_1062_2800558.jpg

 

Including this albino cub

 

gallery_37950_1062_150661.jpg

 

The reason that they are relatively alert for resting lions, as a croc had a go at one of them for a large meal - unfortunately it all happened so fast, there is no photographic evidence!!

 

gallery_37950_1062_2865098.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_78519.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_3340375.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_480146.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_2616335.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_327323.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_2017224.jpg

 

The end for South Luangwa - next up, Lower Zambezi National Park

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sausage Tree Camp, Lower Zambezi National Park

 

After our very hot and bumpy flight, it was good to land in the park. We had a vehicle and then boat transfer to the lodge. It was really nice to be on the water after 8 days in the dry luangwa valley. The camp management had kept lunch for us, which was lovely, as we had already had a long day. Activities were very flexible, walking, drives, boats and canoes. In the evenings it was nice to do a boat cruise, followed by a night drive.

 

The camp is beyond luxurious (especially as we were upgraded to the honeymoon suite). Meals were communal

 

gallery_37950_1062_1193358.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_1855095.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_2802780.jpg

 

In room dining....

 

gallery_37950_1062_1217909.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_2641846.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_2952284.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_1047009.jpg

 

From a canoe

 

gallery_37950_1062_2900522.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_762270.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_889417.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_3772184.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_55806.jpg

 

 

gallery_37950_1062_4192261.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_1019637.jpg

 

The canoe meant we could get close to the animals

 

gallery_37950_1062_918857.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_595939.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_3993482.jpg

 

Barbeque lunch in the Zambezi anyone??

 

gallery_37950_1062_2743386.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_62225.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_3972040.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think I have read of in-room dining before, other than by special request; how did you like it? The crocodile-lion interaction must have been something to see.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@@Marks - we have had it several times in different countries and never on request! This time I think it was to keep us away from the other guests. The canoe trip wasn't as tranquil as the photos show. The lady in the boat in front of me got hit out of the water by an angry hippo :(

 

No photos of that either.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Weirdest lion-elephant interaction ever?

 

We were driving back in the general direction of where we had left the mating pair of lion in the morning, when we heard an almighty elephant trumpet. This ele was not happy, as he had found the lions. This lead to the most ridiculous form of chase/hide and seek ever....

 

gallery_37950_1062_5044089.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_1906689.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_2532268.jpg

 

The lions thought that they could hide behind some flimsy palm tree bushes - the ele just walked straight through them...

 

gallery_37950_1062_91534.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_687860.jpg

 

So the lions had to hide up a dead tree

 

gallery_37950_1062_579400.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_2462696.jpg

 

 

gallery_37950_1062_2250362.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_2462696.jpg

 

gallery_37950_1062_1144282.jpg

 

The ele got very close to our vehicle, so we put the camera away. Then he reared up on his back legs and waved his front legs in the air at the lions! Even the camp manager didn't believe that....always keep the camera handy!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@@Marks - we have had it several times in different countries and never on request! This time I think it was to keep us away from the other guests. The canoe trip wasn't as tranquil as the photos show. The lady in the boat in front of me got hit out of the water by an angry hippo :(

 

No photos of that either.....

 

Wow! That's alarming. I assume she was able to re-board without any further incident?

 

And why would they want to keep you away from other guests?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

@@Marks - we have had it several times in different countries and never on request! This time I think it was to keep us away from the other guests. The canoe trip wasn't as tranquil as the photos show. The lady in the boat in front of me got hit out of the water by an angry hippo :(

 

No photos of that either.....

 

Wow! That's alarming. I assume she was able to re-board without any further incident?

 

And why would they want to keep you away from other guests?

No, she and her guide were too shaken to continue (as were we), we had only got 1/3 distance. We had a short drive back to camp, where we saw the leaping lion pair.

 

I am only assuming that they didn't want us to put off others from doing the canoe trip, but maybe they gave everyone an in room dining experience....I'm not so sure that that is the case

 

Anyway, the lady in question was very glad of the in room bar, which she attacked with a vengeance, given that being attacked by a hippo had been her lifelong fear.....it had taken her husband 3 weeks to persuade her to do it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OMG, it is a fear of mine as well and my DH really wants to canoe. Well, I've got to try it; and Pray :wacko: we steer clear of the hippos.

 

Terrific report and photos, TD!

 

I dont like in room dining. We can do that at home!

We like to chat with others from around the world too much and hear about their day or even whereas the folks have been.

 

I am really going to take a drink before a canoe trip! LOL - that is very scary.. How did she get away from the angry hippo?

 

I had heard Sausage was very "upscale". In room bar a necessity of course.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The problem was we got too close - it was a narrow bend (in a channel, not the main river) and the hippo came across under the water and flipped the boat into the air, tossing the occupants into the water.

 

The worst thing was that she dropped her camera and they were at the end of a three week trip of a lifetime having not changed the memory card. (I was too paranoid to carry the camera so my OH had it - again no photos of the incident as some kind of six the sense made him put it away)

 

So later that afternoon the camp manager and guide went back with a hook on a stick and retrieved the camera, which had been squashed, but the Memory stick still worked!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Safaritalk uses cookies to ensure you get the best experience on our website. By using Safaritalk you agree to our use of cookies. If you wish to refuse the setting of cookies you can change settings on your browser to clear and block cookies. However, by doing so, Safaritalk may not work properly and you may not be able to access all areas. If you are happy to accept cookies and haven't adjusted browser settings to refuse cookies, Safaritalk will issue cookies when you log on to our site. Please also take a moment to read the Terms and Conditions and Privacy Policy: Terms of Use l Privacy Policy