Brazil 2014: Pantanal Wonderland

[TonyQ]

The channels are peaceful and beautiful.

We travel quite slowly, enjoying the sights

Iguana

Kingfisher (Ringed?)

On some of the sand banks are dozens of butterflies – some taking salts from bird droppings

 

We spend some time travelling at speed up the broad main channel, scanning distant banks for Jaguar. This was not as interesting as the slower travel in the narrow channels (but I suppose I would comment differently if we had seen a Jaguar there!).

 

As the morning progressed, it was getting ferociously hot – and headed back to the hotel, arriving at about 11.30. We would have the middle of the day free to relax and would set off again at about 3pm.

[Bush dog]

We were very clear in our minds that we didn't just want to focus on Jaguars.

You are right, jaguars are a very small part of what Pantanal offers!!!

 

And I love the pictures with the waterlilies.

[TonyQ]

We spent some time in the beautiful grounds of the hotel, enjoying the bird life.

 

Hyacinth Macaw were easy to see in the grounds

Monk Parakeet nesting – they are easy to find as they are so noisy!

 

Still working hard at home improvements

Buff-necked Ibis

 

Cattle Tyrant (???)

Yellow-rumped Cacique

@@Bush dog -thank you - I really liked the waterlilies as well.

Edited October 16, 2014 by TonyQ

[TonyQ]

After an excellent lunch, we headed back to the boat.

 

If you were very observant you might spot the odd small clue that this was also a fishing lodge.

 

This afternoon we would head upstream to look for Jaguar. They are seen more regularly there – which is why most boats go in that direction.

 

The sun was bright; it was hot on the river. It was not long before Julinho had a radio message from a friend that a Jaguar had been seen. We dashed to the location to join a group of 4 or 5 boats already in position. Julinho positioned the boat – and again it was a matter of waiting. Julinho was obviously tired this afternoon and unusually quiet.

 

A jaguar shows itself.

 

And has a bit of a stretch.

The Jaguar has been a little inconsiderate and placed itself so that the sun is right behind it shining into our eyes and lenses, and reflecting off the water. (I found photographs even harder here as I had lost my lens hood in the river at Barranco Alto – I had used it regularly for 18 months, but the first time I was on water it decided to dive in!).

 

The Jaguar rested for a bit then went through the undergrowth to emerge

Behind large roots in the water – it cooled off, had a drink and then returned to the bank.

 

More boats arrived – but they were well behaved in terms of positioning. People were noisier than I would like (but by my age you think I would have accepted that not everyone behaves exactly as I wish!)

[TonyQ]

After about half an hour,

the jaguar sat up again and appeared fairly relaxed.

We sat and watched it as the light faded

It had a wash

And then a nap

 

So at about 5.40pm we headed back towards the hotel – excited at seeing another Jaguar – and at spending about two hours with it.

 

enjoying the sunset after a great day

 

Despite his tiredness, Julinho still used his torch as a spotlight, looking for wildlife on the river banks as we headed home. This man has a very strong work ethic!

[Atravelynn]

"I am not sure if this was inviting marriage or a fight!" Some would consider the distinction slight.

 

A promising morning weatherwise and quiet channels and no jaguar. Cold and rain and then there's a jaguar. Such unpredictable cats.

 

"People were noisier than I would like (but by my age you think I would have accepted that not everyone behaves exactly as I wish!)" You would think wildlife watchers who have spent a lot of money and invested a lot of time to see something as spectacular as a jaguar could lower their voices when the jaguar appears to increase the odds that they'll have some time to look at it. While the cats are unpredictable, sadly so many humans are very predictable: we just can't shut up!

 

Another great jaguar show. You overcame the lighting problems very well, even without the hood. Right when you most need it, the hood disappears.

 

Julio will be even more sought after as a guide after your positive comments.

[Bush dog]

The first picture of the jaguar on #130 is very nice with tha sun and the light behind

[Treepol]

@@TonyQ beautiful river photos once again and some great 'on the beach' shots too. The waterlilies at PJ Hotel look particularly healthy this year!

 

Did you manage to get a photo of a sunbittern flying off - very beautiful wing spots and a shot that continues to elude me.

 

What a fantastic jaguar sighting in the afternoon - nice clear views and even taking a dip to cool off.

Edited October 17, 2014 by Treepol

[TonyQ]

@@Atravelynn

Thank you. I agree that cats are unpredictable - I think that is their attraction!

@@Bush dog

Thank you

@@Treepol

Thank you - we didn't see the sunbittern fly, it seemed happy to stay put.

[TonyQ]

Last Morning on the River

 

This morning we head upstream, visiting some side channels to scan for Jaguars.

 

A Black-collared Hawk circles overhead

 

We explore the waters either side of a spit of land. We come across a couple of boats waiting and looking. When our boat is positioned, we can just see…

 

You will need to look very carefully...

Julino recommends that we wait and see if the Jaguar will move into the open. We are happy to wait; other boats arrive and soon leave. Julinho said that radio messages say that another Jaguar has been seen about half an hour away and that other boats are rushing to try to see it. We wait with one other boat – a friend of Julinho.

 

After about 45 minutes, the Jaguar comes out of the bush but heads inland. Julinho says he thinks it will come out on the other side of this piece of land – so he takes us round to the other channel, and the other boat joins us. Both guides scan the bank and work together (I think they both enjoy using their skill and knowledge)

– we finally see it sitting under a tree.

You may notice that one of its eyes is badly damaged.

We settle down to watch it as it relaxes for about 30 minutes. During this period, one other boat joins us.

 

The Jaguar gets up and heads inland again..

and we go to the other side of the spit of land hoping that it will appear

After about 20 mins it does come out and has a look and heads inland again.

[TonyQ]

We return to the other channel - other boats arrive – the Jaguar reappears and heads towards the water

 

It goes into the water

goes in and out of the greenery

along the margins

[TonyQ]

Shakes himself dry

and explores a beach

 

(This final action takes about 20 minutes from when the Jaguar enters the water). There are now a lot of boats, jostling for position as the Jaguar moves in and out of the water and around the beach. At the end of this we feel sorry for the Jaguar.

 

Boats start to leave – Julinho says that the Jaguar probably wants to hunt – do we want to stay to see? We say we would prefer to leave it alone to hunt in peace.

 

The morning had been interesting and exciting; for most of that time, waiting, anticipating, tracking. The final section was exciting and the sighting was very good, but…..

Edited October 18, 2014 by TonyQ

[TonyQ]

Reflecting...

 

Julinho thinks – and we agree – that there needs to be an agreement about the behaviour of boats. Apparently guides had met to try to achieve this but it has not really worked. For much of the time, boats did behave well, but on this last occasion, with the rapidly moving Jaguar the behaviour was not good. For most of the time we watched Jaguars on the river, they seemed to be unbothered by the boats, and could leave when they wished. In this final 20 minutes or so the boat did bother the Jaguar – if that continues then I imagine that Jaguars will move away from the boats making it harder to see them.

 

There is an issue of an increasing number of boats – all using radios – and lots of pressure on guides to show tourists Jaguars. Southwild, for example “guarantee” Jaguar sightings. They have expanded from 10 double rooms to 16 double rooms – so more boats on the water. The number of tourists is expanding – (and I know that we are part of this) – but I think this needs to be managed better. Jaguars are a big draw, but the area has so much more to offer than “Just Jaguars” – I think this needs to be “sold” more.

 

This area of Brazil has something very special - we had very positive experiences and really enjoyed it. It needs to be cherished.

Edited October 18, 2014 by TonyQ

[TonyQ]

Back to Porto Jofre...

 

We head back to the hotel, enjoying our last trip on the river and reflecting on our experiences of our time here.

 

While Julinho puts the boat away, we spend the middle of the day relaxing and looking at birds in the hotel grounds. Hotel Porto Jofre is a very good well run hotel. Food was very good; staff were efficient and friendly.

Hyacinth Macaw

Cattle Tyrant (?)

Boat-billed Flycatcher (I think)

[TonyQ]

We headed up the Trans Pantanal Highway towards are next stop - Jaguar Ecological Reserve.

Southern Screamer

There were many Caiman in roadside pools

We stopped at a place that Julinho knew to see...

Great Horned Owl (sneaked a look with one eye....)

 

An Iguana crosses the road

Striated Heron

Caiman portrait

[TonyQ]

We arrived at the lodge and MrsQ and I wandered around the grounds and saw a variety of birds – including a Vermillion Flycatcher and

White-eyed Parakeet

Immature Rufescent Tiger Heron

Our lodge is ppositioned by the side of the road, and opposite is a ranch..

Cattle and horses know it is time to go home

We go on a night drive on the highway and then up a side track. We see nightjars, Brazilian Guinea Pig, and

Great Potoo

[michael-ibk]

Great jaguar pics, Tony! Will have to check, but I think your jaguar with the hurt eye could be the same one we saw. Agree about the boats, we had a sighting like that on our last day on the river as well where it was circus-like, and the jaguars obviously stressed by that.

 

About your birds: It is indeed a Ringed Kingfisher in #126, and Cattle Tyrant in #128 and #139. The red iris is diagnostic, and the similar-looking kingbirds are almost never on the ground. Not sure about your Boat-Billed Flycatcher, could be a Great Kiskadee as well.

[Atravelynn]

That first shot of this last jaguar shows how hard they are to spot. He seems to be surviving ok even with a damaged eye. Letting the jaguar hunt in peace will contribute to his survival. Some of the photos even managed to catch his good eye and hide the bad one. Like he was posing and offering his best side.

 

Thanks also for sharing your reflections.

 

Cool you saw a wild guinea pig! One successful day after the next.

[Bush dog]

Reflecting...

 

Julinho thinks – and we agree – that there needs to be an agreement about the behaviour of boats. Apparently guides had met to try to achieve this but it has not really worked. For much of the time, boats did behave well, but on this last occasion, with the rapidly moving Jaguar the behaviour was not good. For most of the time we watched Jaguars on the river, they seemed to be unbothered by the boats, and could leave when they wished. In this final 20 minutes or so the boat did bother the Jaguar – if that continues then I imagine that Jaguars will move away from the boats making it harder to see them.

 

There is an issue of an increasing number of boats – all using radios – and lots of pressure on guides to show tourists Jaguars. Southwild, for example “guarantee” Jaguar sightings. They have expanded from 10 double rooms to 16 double rooms – so more boats on the water. The number of tourists is expanding – (and I know that we are part of this) – but I think this needs to be managed better. Jaguars are a big draw, but the area has so much more to offer than “Just Jaguars” – I think this needs to be “sold” more.

 

This area of Brazil has something very special - we had very positive experiences and really enjoyed it. It needs to be cherished.

The constant increase of visitors in the north and particularly in Porto Joffre is the main reason why I have decided not to go there anymore. It has lost a lot of its pristine side and it's, in a lot of situations, only about harassing animals . Your decision to move back from the jaguar is a wise behaviour and shows a lot of respect for wildlife.

 

You say that some companies "guarantee" jaguars sightings. I am very skeptical and even suspicious about that. With cats, I, personnally, will never guarantee sightings in a wild environment. I really would like to know what is making them so sure about that.

 

Pantanal is like you said not only "just jaguars".

[Treepol]

@@TonyQ I agree wholeheartedly, the Pantanal is about more than jaguar. There are many other iconic species such as anteater, tapir, giant otter and capybara to say nothing of the birds to enrich a Pantanal visit.

 

I notice that Naturetrek are now selling safaris that promote the South American Big 5 - Tapir, Maned wolf, Jaguar, Giant Anteater and Giant river otter. Perhaps this is a move in the right direction?

[Alexander33]

@ TonyQ

 

I very much appreciate your posting this report. You and @ Bush dog are doing an excellent job of convincing me that the Pantanal should be my next destination in South America. These reports (as well as others already posted) are very helpful and will serve as a very good reference for when the time comes for me to plan my own trek! Thank you.

[Sangeeta]

Sorry - double post - edited.

Edited October 20, 2014 by Sangeeta

[Sangeeta]

 

I sincerely hope this does not go the India route where I fear both guides and tourists have become so obsessive about tiger sightings that any drive without one is almost considered to be a 'failed' drive, even if you saw a host of other mammals and birds in the jungle. Good for you that you backed away from the melee on the last day.

 

The South American Big 5 sounds like a good step in the right direction as it can familiarize people with the other elusive endemics and they can feel the thrill of discovery if they know how hard it is to spot these animals.

 

Does anyone have estimates re jaguar population in the Pantanal?

 

The otter photos are lovely, as are all the birds, the reptiles, even the big fellow with the bad eye - and you could've fooled me about being 'non-birders' This report has been a feast for the senses, Tony. Thank you both for taking the time to post this!

[graceland]

Wow TonyQ, the birds are simply stunning, Africa increased my appreciation of such beauty.

 

But that Jaguar (wow)...my very first desire to see a "wild cat" was when I was given a set of "Jaguar Jungle" china! (a million years ago) I did not get to see them in SA/ but your report may change that. We headed to Africa of course, but in the back of my mind was always the Jaguar Jungle.

 

Really enjoying it along with your great and colorful photos. Thanks!

[Atdahl]

Wow @@TonyQ! This has been a fantastic report. I am just sorry I am so late to the party so I couldn't post more comments day by day. Your chronicle of the trip has been outstanding especially all the helpful information you give. But, as great as that is, your photos have made the report. They make a wonderful portfolio of the wildlife of the Pantanal. I would type all night if I listed all my favorites! The Anteater shots, Lilypad shots, and all the excellent bird shots really stand out.

 

Congratulations on such an amazing trip. Your itinerary was almost exactly what we had planned so reading through your report lessens the sting of having to cancel our trip.

 

I look forward to the remaining updates.

 

Alan