Mana Magic and Hwange Highlights

[michael-ibk]

Thanks, @@Atravelynn , @@Kitsafari , @@Alexander33 , @@TonyQ and @@Marks .

Yes, that´s the "hide" in the last pictures. It´s function is probably less to actually hide people than to give a bit of protection against the elephants, of course they do see you. But getting to water is more important than discomfort around humans. Well, at Kanga Camp (our first two nights) there was no hide at all, and Elephants would walk right up to the platform, so close that you could almost touch them. A few pages ago I posted a pic of (Big) Makalolo camp where the elephants were drinking out of the pool with staff sitting right next to it. So in these situations they don´t seem to worry too much about people. And not only Elephants - remember the Sable herd in the post a while ago which was coming to camp every day? Zebras, Waterbuck and Kudu can be watched from the hide as well, just metres away, and are coming very close to people in camp. For whatever reason, in these settings the animals behave differently from "out in the field", I think they just have accepted that in order to drink they have to tolerate this close human presence.

[michael-ibk]

It had to happen - nothing! Nothing was what happened on the morning drive of our last full day.

 

 

We drove to the East today, the Linkwasha part of the concession.

 

 

And most of it was virtually lifeless. All animals seemed to have vacated the place, I don´t think we saw much more than 30-40 mammals all morning, including two elephant herds. A skittish herd of Kudu, some (not many) Impala, one Waterbuck, one Wildebeest, that was about it.

 

Scott´s Pan is another waterhole where the park has brought in Hippos.

 

 

One lonesome Wildebeest:

 

 

This is Wexcau Pan, partly operated with a windmill.

 

 

The whole pan here was pretty desert-like with almost no vegetation left. In the green season this becomes a green carpet irresistible to all grazers and is then a very good place for Cheetahs as we were told. But not now.

 

 

 

Crowned Cranes - our only sighting of these beautiful birds this trip.

 

 

You can always count on Lilac-Breasted Rollers. This one was close, and I got out of the car and wanted to get it in flight. Of course, after about five minutes and total readiness on my side, just when I put the camera down for one second to reposition the little bastard flew - and I´m sure he was laughing at me.

 

 

Kori Bustard

 

 

Sable herd - we would see much more of them (and much closer) back in camp.

 

Edited December 22, 2015 by michael-ibk

[Atravelynn]

About time you had some nothingness. After your tremendous bounty, distant sable, YES SABLE are deemed nothing! I saw a windmill in there too. You skillfully photographed the nothingness.

[Big_Dog]

Missed so many of these out, been very busy, sorry michael!
There are a lot of great photos indeed. But oddly, I think the very sad Steenbok sighting is the...perhaps not 'best', but very unique that gives it a huge value in safari sightings. And with a lot of emotional weight too. Very tragic indeed.

On a lighter, and browner, note - got that final wildebeest mid-poo action!

[michael-ibk]

Our last afternoon - but we didn´t feel sad, we had been so lucky on this safari, seen and experienced so much that it was somehow hard to believe that it had been less than two weeks ago that we had landed in Harare and enjoyed Guinea Fowl´s pool. Time flies on safari, and experiences worth a lifetime are compressed into few days.

So it was more a feeling of gratitude on this last-but-one outing, and we were happy with everything that came along, small animals and big ones.



Southern White-Crowned Shrike



Female African Paradise Flycatcher



The Sable herd was still relaxing around camp.



Including a pretty pregnant one. Waiting for the rains - as all of Zimbabwe was.



At the waterhole we had the pleasure of finding the youngest, most pinkish Elephant baby we´ve ever seen - Edwin mused that it must had been born less than 24 hours ago, probably in the night.



As you can see in this video it hadn´t learn to walk properly yet. What a brave little thing to stumble along with its giant family!

A slightly older sibling showed us how good life was for him.





Few things are more enjoyable than watching young Eles playing in the mud.



So it took us quite a while to actually leave the vicinity of the camp - but why go far when all the good things come so close to "home"?



We drove on to Scott´s Pan (near the airstrip). We shared the cars with three others today, and they were eager to find the lions which was fine with us, and just like us they were happy with All Creatures Great and Small on the way.



Everybody and everything looked happy today, including this Steenbok who was obviously delighted he had found some precious tasty green.





A Red-Crested Korhaan - better known as the "Suicide Bird".



That´s because in aerial display, males fly straight up, then suddenly tumble to ground as though shot, before gliding to land. Men and the things we do for love!



I was delighted to find a Purple Roller. We also tried for Racket-Tailed, but no luck there.



Grey Duiker. I always enjoy seeing diversity of mammals, and this was the first - and only - Duiker for us on this trip.

And then another wish was fulfilled. When booking this trip I thought that I would really miss Giraffe in Mana. I love them, they are such iconic parts of African wildlife, and so I was glad that we would get them in Hwange. Or so I thought. As a matter of fact, they are very rare here, and weeks can pass without anybody seeing them. And they hadn´t been spotted for two weeks.

So we were really, really happy that they decided to present themselves as farewell gifts to us.





Never completely sure with the subspecies here - I think this would be Angolan Giraffe?



Our last sunset in Africa!



Of course the Elephants were blocking the waterhole at Somavundhla Pan.



For some reason the Giraffes were spooked, and gallopped off. They look so weird when running - in a wonderful way!









Of course the Pelican was holding down the fort - a lonely prisoner in a shrinking prison. I would really love to know if he made it so far - I truly hope so!



We had our sundowners here, and had a proper "Mana moment" when a huge Ele bull was passing us by very, very closely, and Edwin advised to stand very still.

A herd of Wildebeest used an "Elephant opening" to get to the water.



The night drive produced lots of Springhares of course, some Reedbuck again, and an interesting something crouching on the ground. When Edwin spotlighted it it ran, and unfortunately moving animals, night time, spotlights and me taking photos of the whole thing are not a good fit.

Edwin thought it was a Caracal, but a look at my display and the stripes on its feet and tail showed this was in fact an African Wild Cat. It really was absurdly huge for a Wild Cat, but we all agreed on it.





And the lions? Of course they were all snoozing at the waterhole when we returned. So driving around to search for them had not been the clever thing to do. Very special, tense atmosphere there. The Elephants were trumpeting, were obviously very nervous, but the Big Cats were just relaxing.







Dinner that night was certainly exciting with the knowledge that a pride of more than 10 lions was out there in the dark, maybe 100 metres away. We sure looked everywhere - twice! - when watchfully going to the tents after our last (wonderful) dinner at Lil Mak.

[michael-ibk]

But oddly, I think the very sad Steenbok sighting is the...perhaps not 'best', but very unique that gives it a huge value in safari sightings. And with a lot of emotional weight too. Very tragic indeed.

 

On a lighter, and browner, note - got that final wildebeest mid-poo action!

 

Psst ... don´t tell anyone, @@Big_Dog !

 

I agree about the Steenbok experience, it was very special, it really made me think about the bonds of animals, how - and what - they feel. I guess all of us have those certain "special" moments on our safari which stay with us for a long time, maybe forever. I will always remember waking up on my first safari in a tent in the Serengeti, and seeing a Zebra grazing one metre next to me through the flyscreen. My first Tiger in India. A trusting family of Giant Otters playing and interacting in the Pantanal. The Leopard posing in the sunset in the Linyanti. Queen Maya passing us by so close in Tadoba. Sapi trying something on this trip, Boswell performing, the Water Cheetahs - and the grief-stricken Steenbok is right up there in my thoughts - I will not forget that look.

[xelas]

And more will come because you travel with an open heart an an open mind! And I will be looking forward to share those moments with you ( and Andrew). Thank You!

[pomkiwi]

@@michael-ibk I have just read through the whole report. I'd like to thank-you for the work that you've put into it. A memorable trip and excellent photos. I have enjoyed your writing and the report would stand on that alone without any images.

[panamaleo]

You bring the finest photos and videos to this trip report! Just got back to page 16 of your TR after the busy holidays, and have been anticipating a chance to do so. The synchronized Kudu photo is classic, and I can barely contain myself with the thrill of your Little Mak hide shots/videos of the eles! Thank you so very much for sharing your talent as a photographer, and your words.

[Alexander33]

Well, your philosophy is right on the spot. A slow drive is bound to happen at some point, although I would have been happy with some of your "nothing," especially the Crowned Cranes (which I've yet to see) and that great shot of the Kori Bustard (a bad silhouette is all that I've managed so far).

 

I really like the portrait of that steenbok, and who can resist a baby elephant rolling around in the mud? Pure joy.

 

Time flies on safari, and experiences worth a lifetime are compressed into few days.

 

You state this very well. So true.

 

By my count, you've still another morning left. Good. I may actually be sadder when this excellent and inspiring report ends than you were when your safari finally came to a conclusion!

[deano]

@@michael-ibk - Brilliant words, images, videos and stories.... Thank you very much for sharing.

 

The sheer variety of images is amazing (and I thought I was the only person who takes pictures of the spread for afternoon tea!) and that you also slipped in some video is testament to your skills with a camera.

 

I can't decide what I like the best between your images and your narrative....so I'm going back to the start to digest it all again.

 

Thank you for a fantastic report.

[Marks]

Really entertaining images of the running giraffes!

[Hads]

Thanks Michael for a wonderful report - Mana is definitely on my "To do" list.

Your photo's and writing style is superb.

[Geoff]

Excellent...

[michael-ibk]

Thanks so much, @@xelas , @@pomkiwi , @@panamaleo , @@Alexander33 , @@deano , @@Marks , @@Hads and @@Geoff !

 

And more will come because you travel with an open heart an an open mind! And I will be looking forward to share those moments with you ( and Andrew). Thank You!

That´s a very nice comment, so you deserve an extra thanks, Alex! And about sharing ... December ... December ... you know you want it!

[Safaridude]

@@michael-ibk

 

Love the pelican image.

[michael-ibk]

Our last morning!

The night had been quite special, the lions had been going at it for hours and done their very best roaring performance. Even in the morning at 05:00 they could still be heard.

We had decided to go straight to the airport to get the most out of this last day, we were scheduled to depart there at 10:30. So it was time for Good Byes at Little Makalolo. Our guide Edwin, who had done a fabulous job, switched to other clients today, but his replacement Justus was just as good. Zim guides really are quite something.



Marvellous, Pino, Manager Eddie, Edwin, Justus, Tawanda and two guys on safari.

The lions were not far from camp, and we spent some time with them. About 12 members of the pride were together. It will be interesting to watch what kinds of dramas will unfold once King Bubesi is dethroned - it won´t be long now, all guides were sure of that, the young ones are already sharpening their claws for the battle.



Their elders were just enjoying the warm morning rays.







Who knows, once they are full grown and have proper manes, maybe they will be kings in Bubesi´s place?





These two were already sparring, testing their battle prowess.

 

"I give up, I give up, don´t hurt me - PLEASE!"

 

[michael-ibk]

Once we left the lions, it was pretty quiet. Elephants of course, some Zebras, a few Impalas on the plains. Justus is a guy who likes his birds and so we happily switched into twitcher mode for a while which was fun.



Marico Flycatcher



Swallow-Tailed Bee-Eater



And since he was posing so perfectly one more.



Tawny Eagle guarding a nest



One last Lilac-Breasted Roller



Fork-Tailed Drongo



Southern Yellow-Billed Hornbill



We saw a small herd of Sable in the thickish and waited for them to come out into the open, but they would not comply with our wishes.

At Little Somavundhla waterhole the hippos didn´t seem to mind the elephants who were practically stepping on them.





We drove to the West of the concession again, and were delighted to find Giraffes - probably the same ones like the day before.

[michael-ibk]

We were heading for Ngweshla Pan (just outside the concession), the place in Hwange for Sable and Roan according to Justus - and of course he was right.

I was just adjusting settings when this bull started to gallop and when I reacted with just clicking away the pics were of course a total mess. But I found b&w is a somewhat forgiving option for failed shots like these. Let´s just call them "artsy".

 

Ngweshla was busy today, Zebra, Wildebeest, several Sable AND Roan. Not bad.

 

I really wanted to get this Roan in one frame with some Sables he was approaching, but he seemed to sense my wish, mentally gave me the finger, and for no other reason than to irk me, stopped and walked back the other way where he came from.

 

Dust was rarely a problem in Hwange, but on this last morning it could be quite windy at times:

 

Hwange can be a harsh place:

 

 

A Black-Backed Jackal was also around and quite approachable, unlike all his cousins we had seen so far.

One last Roan series:

 

And that was pretty much it. We moved on to the airport. The Elephants at Madison Pan gave us a nice Good Bye.

 

Our cars. Really liked the Wilderness model - lots of space, and a very handy console in the middle to stow things, and an opening for water bottles. If they would just add something for bean bags/pods they would be perfect. I don´t get why Southern African safari cars don´t provide a bit more for the needs of photographers even though so many of their clients arrive with bigger lenses.

 

We changed clothes at the airport - I would have felt a bit out of place in my safari attire arriving back home.

 

Good Bye Hwange!

 

And Good Bye Zimbabwe - you´ve been awesome! At 10:30 we left the park, and a few hours later we were already on our international flight on the way to Austria - dreaming of returning to safari already again.

 

[michael-ibk]

The Bird List for this trip - Doug had a fun app which was helpful to tick off all birds seen (in Mana), and I added some I remember from Hwange.

Apalis, Yellow - Breasted
Babbler, Arrow - Marked
Barbet, Crested
Bateleur
Batis, Chinspot
Bee - Eater, European
Bee - Eater, Little
Bee - Eater, Southern Carmine
Bee – Eater, Swallow-Tailed
Bee - Eater, White - Fronted

Boubou, Tropical
Brownbul, Terrestrial
Brubru
Buffalo-Weaver, Red-Billed
Bulbul, Dark – Capped
Bunting, Golden-Breasted
Bush - Shrike, Grey - Headed
Bush - Shrike, Orange - Breasted
Bustard, Kori

Camaroptera, Grey - Backed
Cisticola, Rattling
Cormorant, Reed
Crake, Black
Crane, Grey-Crowned
Crombec, Long - Billed
Crow, Pied
Darter, African
Dove, Cape Turtle
Dove, Laughing
Dove, Namaqua
Dove, Red - Eyed
Drongo, Fork - Tailed
Duck White - Faced Whistling
Eagle, African Fish
Eagle, Martial
Eagle, Steppe
Eagle, Tawny
Eagle, Wahlberg's
Eagle - Owl, Verreaux's

Egret, Western Cattle
Egret, Great
Egret, Little
Firefinch, Red - Billed
Flycatcher, African Paradise
Flycatcher, Marico

Francolin, Crested
Francolin, Coqui
Go - Away - Bird , Grey
Goose Egyptian
Goose, Spur - Winged
Goshawk, African
Goshawk, Gabar
Greenbul, Yellow - Bellied
Greenshank, Common
Guineafowl, Crested
Guineafowl, Helmeted
Hammerkop
Hawk, Bat
Hawk - Eagle, African
Hawk - Eagle, Ayres
Helmet - Shrike, Retz's
Helmet - Shrike, White Crested
Heron Black headed
Heron, Goliath
Heron Green Backed
Heron Grey
Heron, Rufous - Bellied
Heron, Squacco
Honeyguide, Greater
Honeyguide, Lesser
Hoopoe, African
Hornbill, African Grey
Hornbill, Bradfield´s
Hornbill, Crowned
Hornbill, Southern Ground
Hornbill, Southern Red – Billed
Hornbill, Souther Yellow-Billed
Hornbill, Trumpeter

Ibis, African Sacred
Ibis, Glossy
Ibis, Hadeda
Jacana, African
Kingfisher, African Pygmy
Kingfisher, Brown - Hooded
Kingfisher, Pied
Kite, Black
Kite Yellow – Billed
Korhaan, Red-Crested
Lapwing, Blacksmith
Lapwing, Crowned
Lapwing, White - Crowned
Lovebird, Lilian's
Mousebird, Red - Faced
Nightjar, Fiery - Necked
Nightjar, Square - Tailed
Openbill, African
Oriole, Black – Headed
Oriole, Eurasian Golden
Ostrich, Common

Owl, African Scops
Owlet, African Barred
Owlet, Pearl - Spotted
Oxpecker, Red - Billed
Palm - Thrush, Collared
Palm – Swift, African
Parrot, Meyer's
Pelican, Great White
Plover, Three - Banded
Plover, White - Fronted
Puffback, Black - Backed
Pytilia, Green - Winged
Quelea, Red - Billed
Robin-Chat, White - Browed
Roller, Broad - Billed
Roller, Lilac – Breasted
Roller, Purple

Ruff
Sandgrouse, Double - Banded
Sandpiper, Common
Sandpiper, Marsh
Sandpiper, Wood
Scimitarbill, Common
Scrub - Robin, Bearded
Shikra
Shrike, Crimson-Breasted
Shrike, Magpie
Shrike, Southern White-Crowned

Snake - Eagle, Western Banded
Sparrow, Southern Grey - Headed
Sparrowhawk, Little
Spinetail, Bohm's
Spoonbill, African
Spurfowl, Natal
Spurfowl, Swainson's
Spurfowl, Red-Necked
Starling, Greater Blue-Eared
Starling, Meve's
Starling, Red – Winged
Starling, Violet-Backed

Stilt, Black - Winged
Stork, Marabou
Stork, Saddle - Billed
Stork, Yellow - Billed

Sunbird, Collared
Sunbird, Variable
Sunbird, White - Bellied
Swallow, Mosque
Swallow, Wire - Tailed
Swift, African Palm
Tchagra, Brown - Crowned
Thick - Knee, Water
Thrush, Kurrichane
Turaco, Purple - Crested
Twinspot, Red - Throated
Vulture, Hooded
Vulture, Lappet - Faced
Vulture, White - Backed
Vulture, White - Headed
Wagtail, African Pied
Waxbill, Blue
Weaver, Lesser Masked
Weaver, Red - Headed
Weaver, Southern Masked
Wood - Dove, Emerald - Spotted
Wood - Hoopoe, Green
Woodpecker, Bearded
Woodpecker, Bennett's
Woodpecker, Cardinal
Woodpecker, Golden-Tailed

[michael-ibk]

And the Non-Feathered List

Awesome Tent Gecko (Reptilianus incognitus domesticus) - yes, I have no idea about small reptiles.



Some kind of Agama? (Chitake Springs)



Rock Monitor (Varanus albigularis) - seen on the way to Kanga Camp



Spotted Bush Snake (Philothamnus semivariegatus) - seen in Chitake Springs



Nile Crocodile (Crocodylus niloticus) - many around the Flood Plains



Chacma Baboon (Papio ursinus) - extremely common in Mana Pools, some in Hwange



Vervet Monkey (Cercopithecus aethiops) - some in Mana, I don´t remember any in Hwange



Tree (Smith´s Bush) Squirrel (Paraxerux cepapi) - very common, abundant on the Flood Plains esp.



Springhare (Pedetes capensis) - incredible numbers (100s) of them on night drives in Hwange



Porcupine (Hystrix africaeaustralis) - two in the riverbed in Chitake. No photo.

Black-Backed Jackal (Canis mesomelas) - none in Mana, a few in Hwange



Side-Striped Jackal (Canis adustus) - pretty regular in Mana, a few in Hwange



African Wild Dog (Lycaon pictus) - three packs, one on the road to Mana, one on the Flood Plains, one in Hwange



Honey Badger (Mellivora capensis) - one at night at Kanga Camp waterhole. No photo

Banded Mongoose (Mungos mungo) - one business of them at Kanga Camp



Slender Mongoose (Herpestes Sanguinea) - surprisingly common in Mana



Dwarf Mongoose (Helogale parvula) - one sighting in Chitake. No photo

African Civet (Civettictis civetta) - delightfully mana of them at night at Kanga Camp. A few in the riverbed in Chitake, also at night



Spotted Hyena (Crocuta crocuta) - often seen in Mana, but only at nighttime or dusk. Only one in Hwange



African Wild Cat (Felis lybica) - a very big one in Hwange



Cheetah (Acinonyx jubatus) - Family of four in Hwange



Lion (Panthera leo) - regular sightings everywhere



Leopard (Panthera pardus) - at least six at Kanga Camp waterhole, one in Chitake riverbed at night



Elephant (Loxodonta africana) - abundant everywhere, especially in Hwange



Burchell´s Zebra (Equus burchelii) - none in Chitake, regular everywhere else. Doug said the ones at Mana are Crawshay´s.
Nothing I found online seems to confirm that, though. It seems to me the ones in Hwange (second photo) have more pronounced shadow stripes and the inner side of their legs seems more stripe-less?





Warthog (Phacochoerus aethiopicus) - seen everywhere, never too many of them



Hippopotamus (Hippopotamus amphibius) - many on the flood plains, a few in Hwange



Southern Giraffe (Giraffa camelopardalis) - a few in Hwange. Not too sure about the sub-species here, is it Southern or Angolan?



Cape Buffalo (Snycerus caffer caffer) - daggy boys around Kanga, herds everywhere else, one megaherd in Hwange



Eland (Taurotragus oryx) - one at Kanga, none at Chitake, everywhere on the Flood Plains, none in Hwange



Greater Kudu (Tragelaphus strepsiceros) - delightfully regular everywhere



Nyala (Tragelaphus angasii) - one bull at Ten Rhinos pan in Mana Pools



Bushbuck (Tragelaphus scritpus) - occasional sighings at Kanga and Chitake, none in Hwange



Roan (Hippotragus equinus) - only in Hwange. Frequent sightings, especially at the West end of the concession



Sable (Hippotragus niger) - delightfully common in Hwange, at camp every day



Common Waterbuck (Kobus ellipsiprymnus) - common on the flood plains, a few in Hwange



Southern (Common) Reedbuck (Redunca arundinum) - two sightings in Hwange during night drives



Blue Wildebeest (Connochaetes taurinus) - a few smaller herds in Hwange



Impala (Aepyceros melampus) - all over in Mana, surprisingly few in Hwange



Steenbok (Raphicerus camjpestris) - very common in Hwange



Sharpe´s Grysbock (Raphicerus sharpei) - one sighting on the flood plains, no photo

Common (Grey) Duiker (Sylvicapra grimmia) - one sighting in Hwange

[Atravelynn]

The roan may have flipped you off, the the eles assembled nicely for your aerial good bye shot. The dust filter shot has a nice feel to it. Cover the camera, though.

 

Are the bold bird names the ones from Hwange?

 

Lovely group shot!

[michael-ibk]

So hooray, I´m finally finished with this one!

 

Really loved this trip. I always tend to say "Best one ever" when I return from the latest safari, but this time I really think Mana/Hwange 2015 will be hard to top for me anytime soon. Hwange was great, delivered everything we hoped for (esp. Sable/Roan), and gave us two trip highlights with the Cheetahs and Wild Dogs. But of course it was Mana Pools that was a real safari game changer for me. I loved walking, getting close to big and small game on foot, walking barefoot in Chitake river, having Elephants coming for tea time, crawling up to Wild Dogs in a dry river bet, hearing the lions and Elephants roar and trumpet at night in their eternal battle, loved the Zambezi and the flood plains. I say it again: Most beautiful place on Earth I´ve ever seen.

 

And to say it again: This trip was such a success for me because of Doug. When you do potentially dangerous things on safari, and let´s be honest, walking up to lions and elephants of course does have its risks, it´s vital that you have somebody that you completely trust. And we did trust in Doug, completely. Almost equally important - he´s good fun.

 

So it should come as no surprise to anybody that a Mana Pools return is already in the cards - Roll on, 2017!

 

Thank you for commenting, "liking" and reading along, everybody, all the nice feedback really is a strong motivator to keep going with these reports, and I enjoyed doing it.

 

THE END

[Alexander33]

And hooray for us that you allowed us all a peak into your wonderful experience in Zimbabwe. Thank you so much. I know this report must have required a lot of effort, but it was definitely worth it, to me at least! You've set the bar high for your next report, though, Michael.

 

Thanks again, and Happy New Year to both of you.

[AndMic]

Indeed, this was a great, awesome, amazing, beautiful and exciting trip. For me also one of the best. I loved the wilderness, the scenery, the new experiences, all the great and incredible encounters with wild animals, the walking with Doug and the hospality of staff at Kanga Camp, Natureways Safaris and Little Makalolo Camp. Thank you Zim, thank you Doug.

 

We will come back, that's for sure!