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Etosha West to East - Part 2 of our trip to Namibia


penolva

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The second part of our trip took us to Etosha NP for seven nights. On our first visit in 2012 we only spent one day there and decided to really explore the park this trip. We started with Dolomite Camp on the western side. This camp was not even open in 2012 so we were keen to see how the wildlife had adapted to tourist vehicles. As we drove in there were beautiful flowering trees on the hill side with some giraffe among them. Stunning.

 

Dolomite camp is set high up looking out over the plains. We requested and got number 13 and it really has the best view. When we checked in a small golf cart took us up the steep hill and onto our room and there was a rhino at the waterhole. What a start.

 

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We took cold cuts and salad with us we bought on the way and had pic nic plates etc from home so we could have dinner in the room so we didn't waste time in the restaurant. The following morning we took a packed breakfast and explored the waterholes on the west side of Etosha.

 

Number 13 (on the left) on the drive out.

 

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Some waterholes had no animals and some had lots, no reason we could see as there were no predators around. We stopped at one to have our breakfast as there were a lot of animals there.

 

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Suddenly a beautiful healthy rhino approached sending the zebra off in a panic. It gave us a hard stare but decided we were Ok and had his early morning drink.

 

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We were enjoying watching him so closely with no other cars around when he suddenly ran off in a panic. A large elephant was approaching so we soon learned who was top dog in Etosha! The elephant proceeded to smear mud all over its face, kicking it up from the waterhole edges to get more. It must have been a good sun screen.

 

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Compared to the crowds we had experienced on our last visit to Etosha there was hardly anyone else around on the west side. Well worth a visit. There is a new campsite recently opened, Olifantsrus, which didn't look busy when we passed by. We slowly made our way back to the camp and had lunch, a dip in the plunge pool and spent the rest of the day watching the comings and goings at the waterhole which included a large herd of eland, such lovely animals.

 

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In addition to being a subject himself, that rhino helped you with a nice zebra shot.

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@@Atravelynn he did although he was a bit of a scardy pants himself. I love how the animals interact. Pen

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Olifantsrus....Elephants-R-Us? :P

 

Joking aside, that's a view to die for. Great action shots of the zebra.

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@@penolva the view from #13 is magnificent, a tip to remember for the future. A real wildlife panorama - it must have been so tempting to while away a few hours on your deck.

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~ @@penolva

 

For several years I've wondered if giraffes ever wander well up onto hillsides.

With ample browse available on slopes, it seemed that they might sometimes wander there.

Yet heretofore I've never observed that.

Your splendid Dolomite Camp shot tells the story and thus answers my question.

BTW: A rhino at the waterhole upon arrival — how fine of a start is that?

Really enjoying your photos and commentary!

Tom K.

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@@Atravelynn he did although he was a bit of a scardy pants himself. I love how the animals interact. Pen

It is a privilege to witness those encounters between (or among) species. Your non-interaction shots of scenery are spectacular as well.

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@@Treepol @@Marks and @@Tom Kellie thank you

 

'Elephants-R-Us', that's funny :rolleyes:

 

We would like to spend more hours at number 13 if we can, a special place.

 

We also saw giraffe settling for the night on the hill side in Kgalagadi TP in February, it was a surprise to us that they did that.

Edited by penolva
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@@penolva

 

Thank you for this wonderful report. I would be interested in your comparing the western part of Etosha to the eastern part in terms of game.

 

Sorry if I missed this in part I, but what time of the year was your trip?

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@@Safaridude this trip Etosha was teaming with game. It was very dry and the waterholes were very productive. Compared to our visit in June 2012 it was much much better especially the rhino sightings. The west had a lot less vehicles so I would not miss this side.

 

We were in Namibia from 8 August to 25. Pen

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The #13 in Dolomite Camp is without competition the best ... and the most expensive one! If not taken, try to get those facing east (#14 to #20). They are much cooler as those facing the west (#1 to #12).

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We had an early breakfast in the restaurant and left Dolomite Camp heading for Okaukuejo. Many people dislike Okaukuejo because it is such a big camp. Large crowds around the wall that over looks the waterhole, noisy groups disturbing the animals. Almost an arena like atmosphere.

 

We spent a couple of hours there last time and although it certainly is a large camp we loved the waterhole views and the number of animals we saw in that short time. We decided to push the boat out and book a Premier Waterhole Chalet and asked Peter to get us number 31 as we read this has the best view of the waterhole.

 

Within half an hour of leaving camp we saw a beautiful lioness just beside the road. She seemed to be waiting/looking for her pride mates and every now and then called. She glowed in the early morning light as she sat amongst the yellow grass.

 

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Further on there was a (tawny?) Eagle on a tree, not very good on birds!

 

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We drove past many waterholes and some were dry. The animals were slowly walking from one to another looking for water. They kicked up dust as they walked in the hot sun. It was sad to see them suffering as the land was so very dry and like a dust bowl in places.

 

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When we did find a waterhole with water there were hundreds of animals, so many oryx you couldn't count them.

 

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Beautiful @@penolva

 

I think your ID is correct, but I am not an expert either.

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Your panoramas of the wildlife at the waterholes are spectacular. Oryxes, springboks, ostriches and zebras in abundance, it seems!

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@@Alexander33 it was unbelievable how many animals were gathered together. When we went in June 2012 we saw a lot but nothing on this scale. Pen

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We arrived at Okaukuejo around mid day and checked in. The staff at reception were very friendly, there have been lots of reports of miserable unhelpful staff at Okaukuejo! We experienced the opposite. We had number 31 thanks to Peter but had to wait an hour for it to be serviced. We went to the restaurant and had some chips, which were a real treat!

 

We got the keys to number 31 and it has an amazing view of the waterhole, with just a couple of trees blocking the left hand side. All of the Premier units have trees in front but this means you see some lovely birds up close. There were elephants, oryx, kudu, warthog and giraffe amongst others drinking. The unit is on two floors with bedroom and bathroom on both levels. Its huge!

 

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There were a lot of people around, sitting on the benches and the big viewing platform. The whole time we were there everyone was very quiet and respectful and did not disturb the animals. It was really nice to see. At night some even slept on the bench seats waiting for something to happen, they must have had units further back. As it was if anything happened, rhino, lion etc we could grab our cameras and nip down to the wall in seconds.

 

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We made ourselves another cold dinner from our supplies and set up on the balcony. As the sun set there were lots of animals coming back and forth to the waterhole and the reflections were beautiful. When the lights came on everything was bathed in an orange glow.

 

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Around 8pm the rhino's arrived. We counted 5 that first evening which included a mother and calf. It was difficult to photograph. Later two rhino bulls had a fight and the bellowing noise they made beat any lions roar, it was so loud and vibrated around the whole area. Never heard that before. A bit later some very nervous lions arrived. I slept upstairs with the doors open so I could hear what went on. There were load roars all night and every time I got up to look out a rhino was still there.

 

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Awesome trip report @@penolva!! I can partly understand why people dislike Okaukuejo as it can get pretty busy. But the crowds don't way up to the truly amazing waterhole if you ask me. You can just sit there all day and see all those beautiful animals. On our 1st night last year we had 11 black rhino around the waterhole... As far as I know that's only possible at Etosha so that makes it a unique selling point in my book.

 

Stayed only 1 night at Dolomite which was to short to fully enjoy it but loved every minute of our stay there...

 

Cheers,

 

Michel

Edited by MR1980
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You may have had a challenge photographing the rhinos in the evening light, but I would say you were well up to the challenge. The shots of the rhinos reflected in the water have an almost eerie, very atmospheric quality that I find quite wonderful.

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@@MR1980 totally agree about the rhino, we saw 7 the next night and around 18 in total in the park this trip. I am hoping to see a lot in Ol Pejeta in 2017 especially the babies I have been captivated by in @@pault TR.

 

@@Alexander33 thanks again, I am amazed they came out so well, we needed a better tripod and head which we purchased on our return home.

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I have seen some nice pictures of Okaukuejo before (on ST and elsewhere), but your description and photos of the surrounding area really help to give me a sense of what the setting and crowd is like. Glad to hear that everyone was respectful and focused on the animals. What a gorgeous view, too. The sunset photo with two eles in the frame is particularly lovely.

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@@Marks thanks, I think it's one of those places that if you plan it right you get a lot out for your time and money. We could have spent a week there! Pen

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The next morning we went out for a short drive with another nice packed breakfast. We saw some lions, a very nice bird??? anyone help with the name?, bat eared fox's and a large amount of game again. It was quiet with not many vehicles around.

 

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We went back to camp late morning as we knew we would have plenty to see at the waterhole rather than driving around. We had a nice lunch on our balcony while watching an old bull drink. He sucked his trunk at one point, as if to comfort himself. We have seen babies do this but not a large bull. Every time we watch elephants we see something different. Can never get enough of them.

 

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Loud trumpeting announced the arrival of a large breeding herd. It was wonderful to watch them all greet the old bull with such respect and love. He was surrounded by elephants of all sizes touching him. They all ran into the waterhole and had a good drink, play and wash and afterwards had a dust bath. Two hours of elephant fun. You can see the large viewing platform beside the waterhole which gets quite crowded at times but again everyone was very quiet.

 

Then we had a nap and packed up a few things for tomorrow when we move on to Onguma Bush Camp which is just outside the eastern gate to Etosha.

 

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We had our meal on the balcony again, burger and chips from the take away! not too bad. There was a lovely sunset and then we watched the animals until we went to bed around mid night. There was the most tremendous noise from some elephants and we thought they were being attacked, it was just some mothers with babies getting over excited and greeting each other. More rhino appeared and we tried again to get some decent photographs.

 

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Edited by penolva
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@@penolva

 

Birds of prey can be tricky but I think it is a Greater Kestrel (Falco rupocoloides).

Sounds like you had a great time.

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@@penolva

 

Birds of prey can be tricky but I think it is a Greater Kestrel (Falco rupocoloides).

Sounds like you had a great time.

+1

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