Kgalagadi 2016: A Lion A Day Keeps A Doctor Awake

[xelas]

@@wildlifepainter

I would gladly exchange 1/2 of lion sightings for 1 leopard ... yet we have to be happy with what we saw. I will post more lion's photos and you will post your leopard and caracal, yes?!

 

@@deano

Both sunrises and sunsets and landscapes are spectacular in this part of the world!

[xelas]

(continue)

 

Our next two nights we have stayed at Kielekrankie camp. Once we saw it we knew why so many have fallen in love with this camp. Fantastic location, excellent cabin. Ours was #1; now there are 5 cabins along the ridge as the previous camp manager cabin was transformed in a guest cabin. All cabins have about the same view to the waterhole. All of them also have good sunrise view but only the #4 has also the sunset view. Among all the places we have stayed in Kgalagadi, this one is #1 for comfort and scenic location.

 

First view of the camp

Spacious and comfortable room

Separate kitchen with dinning area

View from the balcony over the waterhole

 

 

We have enjoyed a quick nap (OK, Zvezda took a "beauty nap" and I have done what a photographer's assistant has to do - back-oping photos and recharging batteries ). Then we decided to visit the Twee Rivieren camp for refuelling and ice cream (as no cake was available). At Auchterlonie there is this small museum with restored cottage used by first settlers. Quite a difference in comfort, between then and now.

 

Stone-and-thatch cottage

 

 

Our round route now leads us up the Nossob road. Close to the camp exit doors are several larger trees close to the road and there we found this couple perching in the shade.

 

Swallow-tailed Bee-eaters couple

Swallow-tailed Bee-eater, fem.

 

 

Another hot day, it looks like the rainy days (nights) are over, and the four-legged animals tend to stay away. The two-legged ones, like this one, were more co-operative. I know Kori Bustard is not a very difficult bird to either find or to photograph yet we both like the glistening eye of this one.

 

Kori Bustard

I have appraised Zvezda spotting skills a few times already. Now it is time for a short commercial break. Passing by a tall tree I have been able to catch the glimpse of an owl hidden behind a trunk. After some car repositioning we have found not only one but two of them! Soon after another car has stopped, and yet another, but we were the first on the scene and thus getting the best seats.

 

Hidden behind the tree

Verreaux's Eagle-owl

 

 

(to be continued)

Edited March 20, 2016 by xelas

[xyz99]

Love the bee eaters!

 

And lucky you to find the owl. The one we saw in South Africa...well, the pic is mostly the shadow of an owl...I had no idea it had pink eye lids, nice make-up

[cheetah80]

Kieliekrankie was the first accommodation I ever used in the KTP - so it holds plenty of great memories for me. The view and atmosphere there at sunrise and sunset is just something one needs to experience to understand. Fantastic owl photos - you are very very good spotters!

[elefromoz]

@@xelas,gorgeous Owls, not only were you first at the scene, probably the others would have missed them totally without your spotting.

[xelas]

(continued)

 

 

Taking the Nossob road was not only not to retrace the same route towards the camp, more important, it was due to Kij Kij waterhole ... and the lions that are frequently seen around it. It did not disappointed us, as shortly before Kij Kij there was a lion family resting in the shade of a dune and a bush (has to be mentioned due to its unfavourable light conditions). The father was doing what the Lion King is best at ... sleeping deeply (but who needs to be awake and alert if one is a King ). Mother was not in the same state, as she needed to feed her two cubs, and play with them, etc. In the lion family, it looks like the lady is supporting the four (or more) pillars and the man is, well, The King .

 

 

Resting and feeding time

Isn't she awesome?!

In the safe zone

I adore you, Mom!

 

We have waited for a while at Kij Kij in hope they will there to drink. No such luck. Yet it is always interesting to wait at the waterhole. If there are no wildlife then there surely is another car or two, and one can strike a conversation very quickly. Parking strategically close to whoever resembles to be a pro photographer yielded many great advices during this visit.

 

A Secretary Bird is a common sight, and easy to photograph. We liked this photo because the eyes of the bird has caught a sun ray just at the right angle.

 

The glistening eye

 

We drove back to the camp using the Lower Dune Road. That one is quite a scenic drive. It started with a short ascent that puts you on the bank of the river. Here the sand dunes are one after another. Sand dunes are also preferred home to ground agamas; just look at the side of the road where there are holes visible. There were this female working hard.

 

Ground Agama (Agama aculeata), fem.

Looking right ...

... and looking left

There are two waterholes along this road; Tierkop and Kij Gamies. First didn't offered any wildlife. At least there is a viewing point above the later. Close by a lovely lady offered us a quick photo-shooting

 

View over Kij Gamies waterhole

Steenbok portrait

 

 

Guess what? For dinner, No braai tonight, but a tasty meat/vegetable thick soup. To change the menu and also because it was relatively windy and the braai is positioned at the very edge of the balcony. Setting a camp in a fire would never be forgiven by all those KK fans around the world and on the Safaritalk . We have had our G&T on the balcony, just enjoying the sun setting down. A lone jackal approached the waterhole down the slope, cautiously. Maybe the lion family will head this way to drink?!

 

Thirsty Black-backed Jackal

 

 

Around 9pm a brown hyena decided to have its bath. No chances for any photography but looking through binoculars was entertaining. To end the day, another after-sunset photo (only to add one of mine every so often ).

 

At Kielikrankie after the sun sets below the horizon

Edited March 21, 2016 by xelas

[wildlifepainter]

Lovely sunset so now we know you have photo skills too. We had a braai last year and the wind came up. Sparks were blowing everywhere and I had my eye on the fire extinguisher. Luckily we didn't need it.

 

Your lion babies are adorable. They had left the scene while we were there.

[Big_Dog]

Missed out after the first post. But just read up (as you may guess from the 50 likes...) and what a trip so far! Honestly reads like a KTP highlights reel; brown hyaena (mad envy over here also...) a cheetah hunt, black manes in good light. Fantastic!

[xelas]

@@Big_Dog

No problem, I like the likes ! Just in time for some more ... of the same (no spoiler alert here ).

[Alexander33]

Fantastic shot of the secretary bird. Rub it in with the part of how common they are! I've yet to see one, if you can believe it. Good job.

[xelas]

@@Alexander33

 

That is incredible ! Are you visiting wrong places ? I will post a few more, FYEO . Just stay tuned .

Edited March 22, 2016 by xelas

[cheetah80]

Nice photo of the secretary bird with nice light in the eyes, and great sightings of the lions. The KTP really delivered for you guys, it's incredible how many nice sightings you had!

[xelas]

@@cheetah80

 

And there are still 5 more days to cover ... plus an extra day birding with @@Peter Connan ... more popcorn needed ... and I can promise you it will not become a boring one .

[xelas]

8 February – When Kgalagadi's Big cats are on Holidays

 

 

Early morning wake-up call again. The sunrise time in the Kalahari desert is always a special moment. Sitting on the balcony of one of the Kielikrankie's cabins, with a mug of a hot coffee in hand, it only gets better! Even though no wildlife were found sleeping below the cabin, or even drinking at the waterhole, it was another perfect morning for us.

 

A Pale Chanting Goshawk - morning edition

 

 

The Lower Dune Road towards Nossob riverbed is the most scenic road in Kgalagadi, IMO. It must have been recently graded and thus it was also the less corrugated one. This morning we turned right at the camp road. The sun was behind our backs, and the light once again was very kind to photographers out there. At Kij Gamies Zvezda noticed this scene

 

A Lanner Falcon and the Windmill

 

And this time there were jackals at Tierkop waterhole.

 

As Green As It Gets

For the first time we have seen a subadult jackal; how old (or young) this one was I have no idea. But surely still in her/his juvenile age.

 

Black-backed Jackal puppy

 

Not only the goshawk, also this drongo must have had a pretty interesting night. When you will complain about having "red eyes" just remember this bird .

 

Fork-tailed Drongo - morning edition

 

Driving really slowly, and taking so many stops, some even when there was no wildlife, just to enjoy the morning air and vast emptiness of the desert, we have arrived at Kij Kij too late for any big cats to be seen. The herd of steinboks, on the other side from the waterhole, was "emergency exit" ... they had a lot of fun, and thus also we have had a lot of fun.

 

Steinboks in the valley

Duelists

Is anyone watching us?

Let's continue with the fun

While young bucks have had their fun, older ones enjoyed the day and the fresh grass.

 

 

 

Much slower but with a certain level of dedication, a lone turtle was speeding across the valley. It was fast for a tortoise.

 

African Spurred Tortoise (Centrochelys sulcata)

 

 

(to be continued)

[Big_Dog]

Gorgeous springbok closeup.
And love the tortoise too!

[xyz99]

So green...looks amazing! And love the young jackal. Are they related to foxes or wolves?

[xelas]

@@xyz99

 

According to Wikipedia, they are a separate, third branch of Canidae (BTW thanks for asking as otherwise I would never researched ).

[Peter Connan]

All beautiful photos!

 

I particularly like the Drongo and the sparring Springbok.

[Alexander33]

@@xelas

 

Maybe the answer is that I just need to visit "more" places. That sounds like the best solution for me!

[Towlersonsafari]

Hurrah for the tortoise! And that feeling of drinking your tea or coffee having just got up watching the sun rise before setting off is one of my favourite times

Edited March 23, 2016 by Towlersonsafari

[TonyQ]

@@xelas

What beautiful light in those early morning shots - especially the Springbok. Great to see the young Jackal with the flowers, and the red eye in the Drongo -excellent

I envy your early morning cup of coffee!

[dlo]

@@xelas

 

Many excellent shots throughout I really like that Drongo. I'm gonna give in and get some birding in this year, nothing as good as your shots but I'm ready to give it a go.

[xelas]

@@Peter Connan and @@dlo

Zvezda will love to read your comments on drongo, as I have not planned to include it . Birding is a great thing. Even if one does not knows all the names, taking photos or only watching them is very rewarding activity.

 

@@Alexander33

Or same places in different seasons?! This summer Kgalagadi was much different than last Autumn. But traveling to "more" places is always a good thing .

 

@@TonyQ

To envy me even more ... we have brought our preferred coffee from home, and it was a delicious "turkish coffee" in our mugs (some would call this type of coffee also mud coffee) .

[Treepol]

@@xelas thanks for the write-up on Bitterpan, interesting details.

 

I can't believe how green KTP was during your trip, the jackal at the water trough is a wonderful photo.

[xyz99]

@@xyz99

 

According to Wikipedia, they are a separate, third branch of Canidae (BTW thanks for asking as otherwise I would never researched ).

 

Interesting....thanks Wikipedia. I could've done that myself, but this way was better, as you shared the knowledge with all of us