My Safari #3 -- Kenya again and again

[amybatt]

@@bettel definitely Kenya, and back to Nairobi National Park. After that, not sure. The reports from Offbeat Mara look good. I am utterly addicted to the Mara. Thinking of Samburu as fellow guests I met in Amboseli and the Mara raved about that too. It's hard to say!

[Tom Kellie]

Yes, @@madaboutcheetah, the terrain was very similar to OMC, which makes sense as it is between Ol Kinyei and OMC.

 

@@michael-ibk, if you'd asked me what I expected to see at NNP, the absolute dead last thing I would have guessed would have been leopard (or maybe zorilla, LOL!). I was THRILLED.

 

Thank you both for reading and for your comments!

 

~ @@amybatt

 

As I was thinking of you while you were on safari in Kenya, I found your trip report to be especially enjoyable to read.

 

With your superb sightings, it wouldn't have surprised me if our mutual friend @@Peter Muigai. had found a Zorilla for you!

Thank you for your nice comments about the Emakoko, including the very nice photographs.

A leopard in a tree, no less! I liked the photos of you with a large number of young elephants.

I've never before seen so many small elephants in one image — fascinating!

Like you, I noticed higher than previously observed populations of topi and warthogs when visiting Masai Mara last month.

May I please tell you how much I appreciate your ongoing descriptions of meals. That enhances the practical value of a trip report.

Most of all I admire and like the enthusiasm and passion which you bring to safaris.

May your next safari be sooner than you expect and may it bring more great sightings.

With Appreciation,

Tom K.

[amybatt]

@@Tom Kellie, thank you so much for your kind comments. It means a lot that a safari veteran found some value in my reporting! I hope someday we can share a vehicle with @@Peter Muigai and track down that elusive zorilla!!

[Marks]

Those Amboseli elephants are just stunning.

And I agree that those Mara landscapes are worth daydreaming of.

I think you made a good choice in choosing not to invade the lions' space unduly. That can be a hard call to make, and doing so is admirable.

 

I also enjoyed your notes on food and drink, too!

[plambers]

I am also glad you described the meals. When we booked our 2017 safari I told Sangeeta that guide quality was our #1 priority but that food quality was also up there!

[Safaridude]

@@amybatt

 

You had incredible sightings in Nairobi National Park!

 

I agree with you that The Emakoko would be a great place to retire. As you say, the food is too good there though… I would be constantly fighting myself...

[Neeners815]

I truly enjoyed this trip report. Especially the elephants! Thank you so much for sharing.

[elefromoz]

@@amybatt, really enjoyed your "family stories", Lion families, every time I see a photo of a cute little cub, I wonder how it will be faring in say 18mths time, so tough out there. And the Sheldricks "family", those little babies have endured so much trauma in their short lives. And then the Massai family....15 and having a second baby, what to say. You had a fascinating mix of experiences and I enjoyed sharing them.

[amybatt]

Thank you all for continuing to read and offer feedback.

 

Sadly, I learned over the weekend that one of my foster elephants at the Sheldrick's orphanage died last week. Simotua was one of two they have who had been caught in snares. Simotua was also found with a spear wound in his head. The scar tissue around his foot swelled to the point where it became like a tourniquet and cut off blood flow to the foot. Despite Sheldrick's best efforts, he succumbed to infection the middle of last week. What infuriates me is he wasn't one of the orphans who was "just" randomly separated from the herd, or accidentally fell into a well; humans did this to him. He didn't have to suffer like he did. My foster-ship has been transferred to Mwashoti, the other snare victim with whom Simotua was friendly. It's just so sad that I saw him not 4 weeks ago; I was fortunate enough to do so.

 

As I told @@Tom Kellie right after my return from safari, I always feel so helpless to "do" something about conservation once I'm back here sitting in my cushy office over Boston. Besides fostering these elephants, I can tell their stories and make others aware. Today I'm telling Simotua's.

 

 

Edited March 21, 2016 by amybatt

[Marks]

That is a terrible shame. At least the little ele had some kindness from humans before the end, but even so...

It's good of you to share this.

[Alexander33]

You have a big heart. Thank you for what you are doing.

[Neeners815]

I'm so sorry to read about the baby passing away.

[bettel]

I am re-editing this post for the fourth time. I don't know what to say I can only co-feel . I hate when animals that I know die, I hate even more when it happens because of humans

[amybatt]

Thank you all for your replies. I knew if I could be honest about how I feel anywhere, it'd be here.

 

I think @@Marks makes a good point that I hadn't focused on too strongly here, but all these orphans get exceptional care from the keepers. These men sleep with them on blankets in the hay in the stables until they stop having nightmares, they let them suck their fingers and hands to feel like they are suckling their mother, they put blankets on them when they need to feel like they're under their mothers. The dedication is both incredible and admirable. I heard one guide at the late day visit say they have to commit to 10 years working there, and only get 5 days off a month, which they have to take all at once, because the orphans come to count on seeing the same faces so much. So yes, Simotua (and all the others) did get to see the best side of humans in his time at Sheldricks. What made me realize that the keepers really care is the one who, when I said "I can't get enough of these elephants", he said "Me neither" with a big smile.

 

Thanks Safaritalkers for making me feel better!

[offshorebirder]

Thanks for this trip report @@amybatt. Nice to read about Encounter Mara slightly after my visit. Glad to hear Willow and cubs are still doing well.

Edited April 7, 2016 by offshorebirder

[offshorebirder]

By the way @@amybatt, in case you are considering a return to Naboisho Conservancy: I was very pleased with Wilson, our guide at Encounter Mara. He was great at vehicle positioning for both views and photos, very attentive to our specific "wants" both for mammals and birds, and very skilled at knowing where to find noteworthy wildlife and how to react quickly to sudden opportunities. And a fun fellow to learn from.

[Atravelynn]

One week turn around? You are making the rest of us look bad! Read this all in one go! Quite riveting!

 

“On my first trip to Kenya, I sort of ignored Amboseli.” Me too & I had to fix that on #2.

Thanks for the grass comments regarding late Feb in Naboisho.

 

I hope you compare and contrast your Sheldrick visits. You’re in line for Grand Dame status there with all your fosters. Wow!

 

Lipault to the rescue and to accomplishing life achievements. They should put that line in their ads.

 

Helpful & answers why this lodging question: “I chose to stay in Naboisho this time because my motto is "never try to repeat perfect". As wonderful as my time at Porini Lion was in 2014, I had to try something different. Encounter Mara seemed like a great choice.”

 

I see Kili in the background and eles in the foreground. Way to go! You did it! Not everyone who visits does. I know.

 

#8 As my husband’s name is Tim, I found parts of #8 rather funny.

 

‘It may be the failure of my memory over time because I don't remember this being the case two years ago, but my guides here confirmed when I asked, that there are many, many more topi, warthogs and eland than I remember there being. They said especially the topi and warthog populations have "exploded".’

Terrible drought about 2010-11, I believe. Could have lowered the #s back then. Maybe others have commented as well on this. Hurray rebound if that is what it is.

 

“ I shared the vehicle with a couple and their young (4 year old) son” Even for an hour, not good, and I like 4-year olds, especially that age group. But these little darlings don’t belong on my expensive game drive for which I make huge sacrifices, unfortunately. No, they do not! Understand those mixed emotions. I’d be ticked.

 

Was the family gone by the time you started seeing lions?

 

Sometimes the harshness of nature that confronts us is not what we really hoped for. Seems like that’s what happened with the wounded lion. More mixed emotions for you and sheer will to survive for the lion. You document that situation well.

 

Hyena teeth shot that would please any dentist!

 

Your comment on Amani & cubs mentions 100 yards off. That was because you had entered the reserve and she was not near a road, right?

 

Camera stops working. Oh no. Come on, come on. Please turn on. Been there when it comes back to life. And when it doesn’t. Yours revived. Whew.

 

Sunsets—gorgeous.

 

Thanks for exhibiting ethical behavior around the lions, even if others were jackasses.

 

Messy leopard after dining—such a shot!

 

I see the lion chasing the zebra in the shot and more importantly so did you in person. What a note to end on after all the great lion activity and photos you had.

 

---------

Sheldrick – Very thoughtful statement: “What a perfect little universe, if only it wasn't so necessary.”

 

The photo with the baby ele in front and the kids on the sideline is wonderful.

 

I had not heard about the private visits—just the public and foster visits. Is private new? Can you tell us how that was arranged? Or, if it is all on their website, just direct me there.

 

Peter and Edwin are great photographers but then they had a huge target to focus on with your smile. So nice you have these memorable photos that are in focus, nicely cropped, well composed, and show you with your eyes open, etc. They look great.

 

The leopard in NBO Nat Park and surrounding story is quite the climatic ending. Big bang in Mara and NBO to finish it off! Ain’t that just like Africa?

 

I am sorry for the loss of one of your fosters. You know his last days he had plenty to eat and drink and even some companionship. You helped with that. Thank you.

 

Thanks for such a heartfelt and honest report, even the sad parts, even the frustrating parts, and the glorious parts as well.

 

“I'm fighting the impulse to book another for later this year.” Best to lose that fight. Have you decided anything?

Edited April 14, 2016 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

@@amybatt, how's that fight going with the urge to book another trip? Certainly hope you have been beaten.

[amybatt]

@@Atravelynn, not there yet. My travel buddy can't commit just yet, and whether she goes or not drives the itinerary I pick. It's also been a challenge getting info on Ngamba booking, so that's slowing it down too. We'll get there, just not as fast as I want!

[Atravelynn]

@@Atravelynn, not there yet. My travel buddy can't commit just yet, and whether she goes or not drives the itinerary I pick. It's also been a challenge getting info on Ngamba booking, so that's slowing it down too. We'll get there, just not as fast as I want!

Ngamba, cool!

 

You are doing either volunteering or the chimp walks (if the youngster are the appropriate ages) right?

[amybatt]

Yes to the volunteering, if I can get it sorted!! I think it'd be a great beginning or ending to the trip overall, so fingers crossed!

[Atravelynn]

I'm sure you are well aware but be very diligent in the health documentation. Email copies in advance to be sure they are ok. I heard horror stories about would-be visitors and volunteers being denied access for lack of documentation.

[amybatt]

@@Atravelynn, the challenge at the moment is even getting a reply! The safari operator won't handle it, so it's on me to book it. They've not responded in +9days.

[Atravelynn]

Good luck to you. Are you going through Wild Frontiers?

 

Or....find a safari operator who will book it? Not booking a crucial part of your trip is grounds to go elsewhere in my book, if someone else will book this crucial part of the trip.

 

The Africa Adventure Company in Ft. Lauderdale, FL booked it for me but it was an ordeal. They had to involve the Peace Corps, really. I believe things have gotten easier since then.

[amybatt]

It's an interesting conundrum, actually. The company won't book it because they don't know how they feel about it: zoo or doing good for chimps? They lean toward zoo and actually discourage me from doing it at all, even a day visit. I explained my feeling was that these chimps can never be reintegrated due to circumstance, not like the elles at Sheldricks, and if they didn't have the island, what then? And plus, I don't think Jane Goodall would put her name anywhere near a "zoo". But the company stood firm. I'll get it figured out. I like their itinerary (and price) otherwise. Though I may reach out to the company you mention if they have experience with it.