Of Old Friends and New: Kenya Revisited - February 2016

[Tom Kellie]

~ @@Safaridude

 

What a fine ending — Anton & Emma and black rhino.

Your return to Kenya lifted our spirits, as you found beauty despite ongoing grazing damage, increasing population pressure and poaching.

Your wry commentary and world-class images defy description.

On a private note, you shook me out of my doldrums with your Lake Jipe section. I've contacted my friend @@Anthony Gitau about a little visit there later this year.

Many thanks and may your next safari be as deeply meaningful as this one was!

Tom K.

[xelas]

Always a great pleasure to read your words and view your photos, @@Safaridude ! Reports like yours are opening a new part of Africa to me each time. Thank You for that.

[mapumbo]

Wonderful and interesting trip report. Was really taken with your reunion with Spit.

 

I am curious if you know how far Offbeat Mara camp in MNC is from where you spotted Amani? We saw her before she had her cubs near the Offbeat Camp on January 23.

[Safaridude]

@@mapumbo

 

Thank you.

 

Amani was seen within 2-3 km (possibly closer) of Kicheche Bush Camp. I think she was just south or southeast of camp right near the border of the Mara Reserve.

 

Kicheche Bush Camp is 11km from Offbeat Mara Camp, as the crow files.

[Caracal]

@@Safaridude - over the years I've seen quite a number of snake eagles but never have I seen one with a snake!

 

Many thanks for this wonderful report - beautifully told and with superb photos.

 

For some reason I find Topi being topi in #143 with the topi gazing into the distance across the vast African plains/savannah particularly haunting and evocative.

[deano]

@@Safaridude - thank you very much for great images and words as well as the supplementary information (I think you and others called it "full geek"). I previously commented on the vulturine guineafowl and I can't stop looking at your pictures of an such an extraordinary bird and have just noticed that violet edge to the wing....am I becoming a twitcher? I have Safaritalk to thank for that but in particular your good self and @@TonyQ and @@xelas I think. The level of additional information in your report is amazing - gerenuks and their bipedal feeding and the fringe eared oryx information and the cattle grazing in Kenya's National Parks - fascinating.

 

So glad you got to meet some old friends as well (human and antelope) - great stories.

 

All in all a very enjoyable accompaniment to my Jameson tonight. Thank you.

 

kind regards

 

deano.

[SafariChick]

@@Safaridude Thank you for a lovely report. It was good to see some of the same characters I saw in the Mara when I was there just over a year ago as well (Handsome and the cheetahs). Kicheche Bush looks great, and good to see a bit of Emakoko in the form of Emma and Anton, and a bit of Nairobi National Park again as well.

Edited March 27, 2016 by SafariChick

[Kitsafari]

@@Safaridude, as expected, another superb report with loads of information (fringe eared oryx! exciting new antelope for me.)

 

the beautiful pictures of both wildlife and landscape lifts my spirit but dreadful news of more cattle invasions and awful fences just adds to my depressed outlook for the wildlife. i keep thinking we are on borrowed time.

 

is your sense of the Kenyan government - are they seriously doing something to maintain the wildlife reserves or do they think there are just too many in proportion to the population's need for agricultural and livestock?

[Safaridude]

is your sense of the Kenyan government - are they seriously doing something to maintain the wildlife reserves or do they think there are just too many in proportion to the population's need for agricultural and livestock?

 

 

That's a very difficult question to answer. The short answer (and this is just one man's opinion) is that conservation of wilderness is not a huge priority. This goes, I think, for just about all African countries, except for perhaps Namibia and Botswana. This is not a condemnation, but rather a quandary.

 

The ultimate irony here, of course, is that the Western countries (most of which have destroyed their wilderness) are more concerned about conserving wild places in Africa then are the Africans. How does the West convince Africa that it should be a priority? Especially when it often conflicts with the economic progress the Africans have tasted and want more of? It's like a billionaire recovering junkie telling his children to stay away from drugs and material things.

[xelas]

Or, like a father that catches his sone with a cigarette in his hands, and yell at him, and then goes outside and .... smoke one to calm the nerves!!

[Kitsafari]

@@Safaridude it is the same in the developing countries in Asia - such as Indonesia or the indochinese countries. Their governments are indignant that after they burned all the forests in their land, the developed world is now telling them not to burn theirs. To these governments, they would regard it as an attempt to block their rise to developed world status.

 

these countries feel the urgent need to develop their economic resources to become affluent. How does one tell them to hold back deforestation or stop mining commodities, just to protect natural reserves and wildlife when they have no funds to do so?

 

I can only hope Kenya will see the tourist dollars and be motivated to protect their natural reserves.

[Sangeeta]

Lovely report as always, @@Safaridude. I love the antelope digressions that inevitably happen in all your reports

But this time, Spit was my highlight. Followed by the fringies - they were beautiful.

 

@@Kitsafari - When I go back to India and see the wholesale environmental destruction that is taking place in places like Gurgaon (the mall-filled hi-tech Mecca on the outskirts of Delhi) in the name of progress and development, it boggles the mind. Or when I see images of the the rivers of China - where the waters have turned pink & green with chemical sludge. Perhaps we need to go back to the drawing board and re-define the very meaning of these terms in a way that makes more sense to the developing world. A whole new topic for discussion, I know, but I feel that we really need to be persuasive against the notion that development = more material goods. There's a lot to be said for clean air, clean water, clean food and a balanced environment.

[Alexander33]

The landscapes of the Pare Mountains and those shots of the fringe-eared oryx (which I was not familiar with until reading this most informative report) -- all in post #133 -- are just fabulous.

 

Follow-up: I've now finished the report. Engaging, entertaining and educational all at the same time -- yet again. Thank you so much for taking the time and effort to share your experiences with us.

Edited March 27, 2016 by Alexander33

[mapumbo]

Not that far from where we saw her before she had her cubs in MNC.

We were told she lost all of them last year, so hope she has better luck this time.

Edited March 27, 2016 by mapumbo

[armchair bushman]

Superb trip report. Superb photos!! Superb descriptions and explanations regarding antelopes, zebras, species, sub-species, etc. And most of your insights into Kenyan conservation and land-use issues are on the money.

 

In my opinion, until and unless land owners are given incentives to keep fences away and can benefit directly from the presence of wildlife, that wildlife will be quickly confined to protected areas as Kenya's human population and need for land explodes (we're almost at 50 million people now).

The conservancies are doing an admirable job of trying to provide a buffer to the National Reserve, but are so strapped for cash at the moment with tourism numbers down (especially last year), that it's hard enough to pay land-lease fees for their currently designated areas, much less being able to expand and pay for more land to stave off the southern advance of the fences.

If you ever have the chance to DRIVE in to the Mara, I would suggest you do it, purely for curiosity's sake. As you drive down from Narok to Sekenani, or to Aitong, you REALLY get a sense of the extent of the fencing and just how much it's encroaching on prime wildlife habitat. Most of the Loita plains are fenced, some of those parcels are being converted to crops like maize, so biodiversity is dropping fast. Every time I drive down that road, every couple of months, there are more and more fences.

Most of the people putting up fences aren't even locals. They're rich Maasai leaders from Narok or even Kikuyu and Kalenjin businessmen looking to invest in the area for cattle ranching or crop farming. They see money and have zero regard for the wildlife or biodiversity supported by that land. And why should they? No one in Kenya actually benefits from wildlife, so what's the point in keeping it when there's money to be made, kids to be sent to school, food to be put on the table?

 

The National government doesn't seem to see wildlife or even ecosystem services as a priority. KWS has a terrible image at the moment and most Kenyans don't trust them to solve wildlife issues. The ministry for the environment is corrupt and run by people who have no expertise in that area.

Without wanting to turn your trip report into a utilization debate, it is my opinion that unless the big bunny-hugging animal welfare NGOs are willing to pay for ecosystem services to secure habitat, Kenya has two options: 1). rethink its wildlife policy and seriously consider sustainable utilization through ranching and subsistence hunting (let's avoid talk of trophy hunting) - OR - 2). be prepared to lose 95% of its wildlife and be satisfied with the small inbred populations that can survive in its few remaining protected areas.

[Game Warden]

@@armchair bushman @@Safaridude @@Calvin Cottar also tackles the issue of fencing in the greater Mara in Issue 3 of the Magazine. Can we start a new topic for this particular and important discussion so as to bring in others with direct experience?

 

Thanks, Matt.

[Marks]

Rarely have I seen such mesmerizing images of light and sky.

Your caption of "topi being topi" made me laugh aloud, and the snake eagle with its prize is a great capture indeed.

I've enjoyed feasting my eyes on your images (not to mention your enriching commentary, as well as the contributions of others in the various dialogues re: taxonomy and other issues).

[pault]

Beautiful. That was great.

 

Something old, something new (for me) but all good stuff and you you've doubled the usual quota of things I didn't know, even though the places are familiar.

 

Sbame it''s over.

[Atravelynn]

Page 1: I am looking forward to the tears of joy coming up. Vulturine Guineafowls are figuring big at the outset. May not be the #1 reason I have gone to N. Kenya but I sure was happy to see them.

I noted the hoopoe!

 

Page 2: Moon shot is sheer magic. Great angle on the approaching eles. The photo bomb made the shot.

 

So far very encouraging, positive news you can share on the area. But I caught some of @@armchair bushman 's sobering remarks to bring me back to Earth. Looking forward to all your findings in between.

 

 

The statement, "My Afghan Girl Moment" told me just what to expect. But the unfolding of your meeting all these later is really moving and a once in a lifetime encounter. That was so worthwhile you made the effort to reconnect. What a 25 years it has been, no? For you both! That village has a story to tell for years to come too.

 

Lots more ahead, Bogoria, etc.

Edited April 14, 2016 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

The emotional reunion, the heavenly flamingos, the intrusion of disco on the earphones...your tears do indeed tie it all together.

Edited April 15, 2016 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

Adding any other verbage to the comment on your surreal experience above just seems wrong. I had to start a new post to let the other just sit there, in peace.

 

"But don’t hate me because I’m beautiful."We don't hate you because you are beautiful, but maybe because of the beautiful photos you take. You do attract the legends of Africa, though.

 

In contrast to the sublime and magical you have regaled us with on page 3, let me fire off some mundane questions to you back here on page 9. (Have not checked out the contents in between, yet, but I know it will be chocked full of good stuff)

 

1. You probably told us but what dates were you at Lake Bogoria?

2. You certainly did hit the jackpot. How much luck do you think you had in that or was the timing of your trip when there were likely to be a lot of flamingos?

3. Continuing from #2, if you have not already answered it....when would you plan a Lake Bogoria trip if flamingos were the main attraction?

4. How many days do you think is needed for a good chance to see and photograph flamingos at Lake Bogoria?

5. Any comments on viewing flamingos from ground level would also be appreciated. Did you do any of that?

 

Thank you!

Edited April 15, 2016 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

To clarify #2-#3 in the above post, I was able to comprehend the word February in your title, but there can be a big difference between Feb 1 and 29 (since you were there in a leap year). Hence my "when" question.

 

You had to be thrilled with the fringe-eared oryx!

 

"And not a sign of another human being or vehicle during our all-morning run at Salaita. The wilderness feel is absolute and complete."

Seclusion AND beautiful sightings. Great combo.

You captured the vast expansiveness with your dramatic skies and the details with the egret kill. And all in between.

 

I bet you were surprised at the cheetah. I'll tag you here to make sure you venture back. You have Bogoria questions to answer, you know. @@Safaridude.

 

Not to your Mara portion yet, but that intro sunrise/set photo is very beckoning!

 

Hoping not to stir up sparks that have since settled, but I'll share one little personal note on safari envy, mentioned by @paulo.

 

I occasionally do presentations on travel, usually Africa, to various groups. PP projector type things of 30-60 minutes. At one presentation, things really got sidetracked into "How can you afford to do this? How much does it cost?" I was trying to focus on the baobab in the sunset, the lion pride dynamics, throw in a wee bit of conservation stuff. But it was a rough crowd, having none of it. So, I went with the flow and shifted the conversation to our local Value Village second hand store and how on certain days even the already low prices are cut in half, offering an example of how to scrounge up savings. Things settled down a bit and I was able to continue, but wrapped up that show early.

 

Looking forward to your Mara part. No hurry on the Lake Bogoria questions. I am not in the process of booking that, though it is a long term goal.

Edited April 16, 2016 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

Now I have journeyed to the Mara with you. B&W looks great on the male lion. You are very creative with antelope and interesting skies! Great eland in color and B7W, I only noticed on second take there was also waterfall.

 

So Amani has new cubs yet maintains a relationship with her older cubs? Did I get that right from your photos and narrative?

 

Some intensity with the jackals. You'd be the one to know that Loita wildebeest have distinguished themselves in form only, not subspecies level, their fate left to land usage.

 

Thanks for this rich and emotional report, @@Safaridude!

[Safaridude]

@@Atravelynn

 

We flew over Lake Bogoria on Feb 23. One never knows how many flamingos there will be at Bogoria or any other Rift Valley lakes. There is constant ebb and flow of their numbers according to food availability, the salinity level of the water, etc., I am told. I do hear that Bogoria is a reliable place… you will most certainly see some flamingos (unlikely to strike out). In August 2012, I was at Lake Natron and saw few flamingos. There I was unlucky. This time at Bogoria, I was incredibly lucky.

 

I know that doesn't really answer your question. I believe it's really a matter of luck with flamingos.

 

If you are lucky, I would think even one full day at Bogoria would suffice.

 

As you may have heard, most of the Rift Valley lakes in Kenya have been in flood (most likely due to seismic activity, not overabundance of rain). This is why we abandoned the idea of a mobile camp. Squack wasn't sure he could put one in. In fact, while flying over, you could see that an extensive flat area on the eastern side of the lake was under water.

 

There is only one permanent lodge as far as I know, but it is located on the far northern end of the park, and if the flamingos are not on the northern end of the lake, I think you can miss the glorious morning light on them.

 

It's tricky… and that's part of the fun, I think.

[Safaridude]

So Amani has new cubs yet maintains a relationship with her older cubs? Did I get that right from your photos and narrative?

 

 

 

@@Atravelynn

 

No, Amani and her grown-up daughter Imani just happened to be situated close to each other that day. There was no interaction between the two. Once separated, cheetah mothers and their grown-up cubs really lead separate lives.

Edited May 1, 2016 by Safaridude