Jump to content

Paradise Regained – Parc National Zakouma Tchad


Kitsafari

Recommended Posts

@@optig ahh you brought up a very interesting point! I had completely forgotten about the tse tse fly issue, and that was simply because we didn't have one.

 

we all dutifully brought our bug suits and gaitors and stuffed them in our bags each time we went for a game drive, all ready to throw over us at a moment's notice. but all we saw was one little bugger which was no irritant. we are not sure where the flies have gone and we didn't really care to ask. we were just grateful they weren't there to sting us!

 

i would however encourage you to bring it along, Owen, just in case. it's very light and doesn't add weight to your luggage anyway.

 

thank you for the compliments!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Atravelynn

Even if the record button was not doing its job, you got some excellent closeups of the cubs. Very exciting they came upon the scene for you all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@@optig - as Kit says, not a tsetse in sight, which was a great bit of luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@@Kitsafari as @@Sangeeta rightly says you "you take all kinds of wonderful shots......." - may I ask the details of "your trusty little camera"?

 

Looking forward to more of both your wonderful writing and photos.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@@Caracal thanks for the support! mine's a bridge camera Panasonic Lumix DMC FZ200. coincidentally, @@SafariChick and @@optig have the same model! mine's nearly 4 years old and getting creaky. It froze frequently while I was in Guassa (perhaps too cold and damp?) and only revived after I took the battery out. and in other situations, the zoom would seize up and the only way to get it going was take the battery out.

 

But it provides reliable sharp pictures and the zoom isn't that bad either. So I'm in a bit of a dilemma as to whether to get another one bridge camera before this gives up life completely the next time when I'm on a safari!

 

I can't give any more specs on the camera because, as @@Safaridude and Mr T can testify, I am a completely ignoramus on the techs of a camera. The Dude was very kind and generous, and very confident, of giving @@Sangeeta lessons on the fundamental and key aspects of photography. Sangeeta did pretty well, but I got a Big F after 15 mins into aperture, shutter speed and ISO. I completely gave up. I'm afraid I have the dubious honor of being the Dude's first failure... :(:ph34r:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On our route to Tinga, we passed a place called Tim (not sure about the spelling) which had proven to be quite productive for Squack previously. But it was quiet for us, and given the marvellous encounter with the lions, I really couldn’t gripe too much. But we did see other predators of the dinosaur-type.

 

Like the lions, the crocodiles were much too lazy getting their suntan to perform for us. But gosh, River Salamat was just littered with these ancient beasts. For the first time too, I saw those caves that crocodiles apparently pile on top of each other to hibernate till the rains came. I’ve seen them in documentaries, so I was pretty excited to see those caves, but doubt if I would ever walk to them in the banks to peek at the pile of mighty jaws.

 

yh2K5Y-1S6fXE5mTBi9Fx_dsmPxZ3fHjP_XRVkAw

 

rYLLVNdAKP1ULuVlgzCoVuRQfPNwXaSAiKv62s1N

 

hN_C28bNVhPaRwXoVwwSrB_LU_VDM0y5hLhgEAd4

 

4aBNW85W-GTynI4XPzWeA1cFNI3EanvYd7JmbAzM

 

zBihUchTyAmcNFnwilyDqj-4V5-Ev2BqM3sh1Ool

 

 

poYLGm9N0uNq_1vVGhhdIF8nMLywDkm9eNisucA9

 

koVcvAhZo-gXcaN5C8BkLBnmqbpR01aqe9T0IToy

 

 

Tyl457GEozRWGaAEXD2qn3PsxFbxeQYVuUf_4prk

a collapsed bridge...

 

guarded by more crocs

HquljWN7l5t7LOjuKcZBslQ0zXm0lweOSzuKE9_L

 

UpP0T-e3WLZxe6leukqY-hOUhkx4mwroiChV7FF0

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When we reached Tinga camp, Sangeeta was taken for a personal tour of the facilities while the rest of us walked a short way to a waterhole. We were hoping to catch sight of the northern carmine bee-eaters, but we were just too early for the birds.

 

Instead, we sat in the shade of trees, not speaking to each other, each drinking in the pleasant and quiet ambiance, as the slight breeze gently brushed against the trees and bushes. The birds – queleas, green bee-eaters, egrets, etc – were darting from waterhole to bushes, repeating the cycle again. Safaridude wandered off to snap pictures of a kob that was making its way to the waterhole.

 

The mid morning light was harsh, not the best for photos.

 

72MD1BC1R8xrwxgFFosFVXMOLb1TNFiQnv0Iy7-v

 

 

Across the waterhole, out of nowhere, a magnificent antelope stepped out and stopped short. The Roan stared in our direction. We froze even as the breeze shook the leaves. How to alert the Dude that this spectacular Roan of all roans had magically been delivered? We kept glancing in his direction, finally catching his attention, and waving him over without scaring off the roan, and he walked carefully among the dried leaves back to us. We stayed very still for a long time as the roan couldn’t decide if we were friend or foe. A male harnessed bushbuck appeared from where the roan came from and came down the banks nonchalantly. Then a female waterbuck wandered into the dry stream ground and a flock of noisy guineafowl picked their way across. Still, the roan would not budge, trusting its own instincts. And finally he turned and vanished into the treeline.

 

That roan’s superb gorgeous horn curved backwards and is one of the largest the Dude and Squack had ever seen. And indeed that roan saved us all from the Dude’s despondency over the “lack” of roan sightings. Ya, right.

 

In fact, thanks to the roan, after we walked back to Tinga’s dining hall, the Dude hijacked Squack for another round at the waterhole, hoping the roan would emerge to drink. When they returned, the Dude said in a matter of fact way, “we saw a lioness hunting”. And I laughed, knowing how the Dude always tried to trick us with his poker face. But when Squack started to describe the lioness, the laugh was on me. Darn! Darn, darn, darn.

 

They did indeed see a lioness chasing an antelope at the waterhole. When we returned a second time a couple of mornings later, the waterhole was almost empty while we sat hidden among the bushes for over an hour. As we were leaving, Squack said he saw the lioness peeking out of a hole in the bushes and thought he saw a kill in there. No wonder the waterhole was dead quiet!

 

So for those who will stay at Tinga, look out for that magnificent roan and the lioness which hid from us.

IXAhef1s9KqX-JcXlp7CNjPY-CMWk8sPIpBq4q-c
dgOd2uGwlWCKyENS0YPgxTYigvzc-5ov6BAaieDG

a8NKHpQZDGGcT8h53qXIg7zu_AeASCSECGFmuDBm

 

S3t05kZHTXfxeaGKwu5NernzfPB_V00uFMNpXPJW

 

ODFaFPd51D6x3CTX-3DQQ1xaDtK7_O_RT7KzpkZq

 

mkZhgjl3ovtqljPVqcoX5aFyVbjrTeIZkGLwczqI

 

KqCtH-GR39HjD1U0Ns1ef_X_ainBDMgNlqz6ACgr

 

dqsYTJkz6bUvjeHo4enrLEempStoaQU6Bo2x_FA6

 

rNXcMH4ACu39WcTjH3vcOClDnXBa1pABOwZLRfAy

 

PQUAnZgLBPGN33jB5HTEoDMFjyg6N5sYLGhjj-l2

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The drive back to CN was faster than the drive to our fly camp. The main sighting of note was a group of patas monkey, finally on the ground for a better look. Previously we often saw them at the top of trees and for me their pale red coats were tough to look for in the thick leaves. But now four or five of them were hanging around on a low branch, including a large male hidden behind the group. The patas monkey is a pretty one - with their shaggy faces and black masked eyes and a light red coat.

 

A baboon walked purposely towards them. I think squack mentioned that the baboons were always trying to take over the territory of the patas monkeys; in other words, the baboons were just like the school boy bullies harassing the weaker and nerdier ones. And it was exactly what this baboon did, except that the alpha patas male wasn’t going to give up without a fight, even if the conclusion was foregone. and if you look closely at the video below (not that my bad filming is going to help you!) , you will see that it was a female patas who was aggressively trying to chase the baboon away, and you will almost miss the reason why - that tiny baby clinging to her belly.

 

ltPfYGttKZDXKQQeAFCw_46_wMjDiwSxRA1lBRO_

 

OqW7CG4ut12Jc8myTmFDUBEA2d049YbLyppeYHEb

 

vmzBvv4xtfGQLJfn7AwUmB_qYxsGoL32o-rnhspL

 

 

 

 

Just a bird and a gazelle along the way, and then we were back at Rigueik Pans

 

u_tUgGAs_ODkjZ8zovTw5Gyglm9UUs4cfocA0eL6

 

Dyf90U-LQ4JTnoT-d7sbWfQ4qhZmWOqkB0IfFCml

 

SCrmIdx559ANFo8ABbqWh2yezBVm5_CO77TwwgZt

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Safaridude

 

I can't give any more specs on the camera because, as @@Safaridude and Mr T can testify, I am a completely ignoramus on the techs of a camera. The Dude was very kind and generous, and very confident, of giving @@Sangeeta lessons on the fundamental and key aspects of photography. Sangeeta did pretty well, but I got a Big F after 15 mins into aperture, shutter speed and ISO. I completely gave up. I'm afraid I have the dubious honor of being the Dude's first failure... :(:ph34r:

 

 

@@Kitsafari

 

You are not the first failure... as I am not done with you!

 

That roan at the Tinga waterhole is most likely a record-breaking one (in terms of horn length). And according to some experts, it's a record by a comfortable margin.

 

Our being there at the waterhole may have saved his life (for the moment anyway). The lioness, which was later seen by me and Squack chasing after a kob, had parked herself under a thick bush and was in ambush position the entire time. If the roan hadn't been disturbed by us, he could have walked right into the lioness (and the wind direction was in the lion's favor).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@@Safaridude - what a magnificent roan and what a privilege to see it.

 

I'm wondering if the kob in Zakouma is the same species as the Uganda Kob?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@@Caracal the kob in Zakouma are Buffon's kob, which is listed as vulnerable in the IUCN list. they have been in steep declines in the native countries where they once ran in great numbers - across the west and central African savannah.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks @@Kitsafari - I've never heard of Buffon's Kob - this is what I love about Safaritalk - there's always more to learn.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@@Kitsafari that roan is just awesome. I never imagined that a roan could have such long horns.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

michael-ibk

Wonderful new posts, love the Crocs and the Bee-Eater. And now that is a proper Roan - what a magnificent animal. Happy to see that good stuff is happening around Tinga. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great stuff @Kitsafari Really enjoyable reading and looking. So laid back I am tempted to ask whether someone had a stash of medicinal marijuana - buit of course I won't because (i) it would be rude and silly; and (ii) what happens in Chad, stays in Chad (except for all the stuff you've already written about :D). Seriously, it's very nice (your writing, not marijuana).

 

However, failing to press the record button for the cubs crossing the water is a bit pathetic I am afraid.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kit, you and your photos are really doing our safari proud. I'm still reliving it through your words and images and it is bringing back wonderful memories.

 

Can't wait until our little group gets back together for the next one, it will be spectacular. ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@@Kitsafari I'm excited about visting Chad next year that I called the Embassy of Chad in Washington D.C. They told me that they would be happy to help me when I came back to the States in June. They were very kind and delighted that I was visiting their country. I just love your photos of the monkeys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@pault

 

 

However, failing to press the record button for the cubs crossing the water is a bit pathetic I am afraid.

 

:(:wacko: was how I felt too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@@twaffle very much looking forward to it too!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@@optig thank you! please ensure that the visa will cover the dates of your trip too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry for the delay - the end of the TR is in sight!

 

Rigueik Pans brought back to us on our fifth evening the duality of Zakouma – the abundance of life side by side its vast remoteness and wildness.

Far in the distance, four giraffes make their journey on an empty plain. Under the sun, the four trod in a measured pace slowly and steadily, but halted mid way as they swayed their heads to observe us. As giraffes often do, they stared at us inquisitively, probably assessing our next movements, our motives, our directions. Satisfied we were but a bunch of boring creatures, they continued their way.

 

Poised against that wide open plain, their steady progress only emphasised how chilled they were and how unmolested they were by our kind.

 

I had just watched a documentary on Walking with Giraffes this evening that talked about the silent extinction of giraffes. The number of giraffes had plunged 38% in the last 32 years from 157,000 to 97,500 today, and no one had taken notice of it. Now seeing this photo of the four tall graceful giraffes again have made it feel more poignant. These elegant creatures could vanish before the next generation can begin to see them free, and uncaged, and unfenced in the wild. The glimmer of hope in that the number of kordofan giraffes has been lifted in the stability of Zakouma is strong, but with the pressures of human settlements and habitat destruction, the pockets of wildlife habitat are shrinking inwards. Will there be space left for these graceful creatures, indeed, for all other wildlife in the 21st century?

 

rYYLfkJyPgH5kSEeuW-uY1HZJXUftTrJqB_WSebg

 

3mf6iLLK5-KbnUnGSu2H900igb7dNGn6XsWCqe84

 

5nU_K9hIgKIpSccqaX8-myDNS4FHqCK2sW6WNPUZ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another abysinnian roller rested on a twig on the floor. There were so many of them along the road, they became the LBR of the Zakouma that we gave up stopping for them. The birds and the herbivores gathered once more for their last feed of the day.

 

Looking at these scenes once more, I do hope that AP will succeed in building up the buffer zones and continue to grow the park and its inhabitants, and do hope that the Tchad government will stick to its pledge to sustain and support the park for many years to come.

 

mV8AzXUXx88QT0wf2iucgV7JzfpcZTRDp0Djta2r

 

mk1pGBa7mJ9YpUpXfYZljm3m2kcnmxm7C6vEOQ8C

 

CVgbtHaKPyuHmxPdVUcj4tLqJAFSkss_8BEycCnE

 

WiSqUetVPycgSkDftYyxnz4etk3uX6b5Lwem2Unb

 

 

U7Y9yi8oVMF45Ah-1oYQXXueszARxbA5p9yy3aSw

 

bTEhc_cA_JHU36DmP9XUanPl0GV0PqooBBeHZuLM

 

xlXZZ4gG_wnWSselxZlIB1pgXJIkVg9rLtL12wJM

 

 

s2W62BUCv1XChrI8hrRO9sQSzlsVSGazHUsZFUTK

 

we couldn't resist more photos of these brilliant rollers....

 

vV03CcJfZoRgN0Z0rWqo2h5Thug7gIjKxbmbONut

 

 

cwdjm-fPp4ZlSez-7nO1qgJol0Kl1MZo1OM0N2vw

 

kaixJI4aDD9vnNtjGLWsUy5Yd5guyN_w6Zzbrgl6

 

Gb3FZ6Op-38D2Rto0vAs_EQfU7WpiNZc1kp0sOcp

 

nor of the baboons....

 

JL2EY4KkTktAQHjwpd4aj4pQrlK6KZOsX_eezKGz

 

DJgtC8qw5bFCYIy6Wue5zILs_lo4gEG2cGUTQ9Ku

 

seIONZGL4fCHm35Jn0F_JP9wVv7Wh9NrGINWftrk

 

ZFnrfghyV9it3gVT8xdMs6pB01HOUtuuN_-2UG8Q

 

PxQQeXY6daGlAGzEfgZkW30BTM4e_Ak7CMsPgEjk

 

 

CMUM02YNUYdv87fV18yjL3rjNF7IZ3vXw_K6A4Va

 

zD8jqyiSacw2WKoH_8Q2baDgzdzvbOn8x0KVibu-

 

9jOKfw_mTyrOpJVUl3r-3Nb9knk0xyfFKE2byUnX

 

00frnAY8idBS_NlVZrTGBVR2e927Xjn-8GuSsmQz

 

 

CN33Zn3NIIBAVrlmoHbADRxHK505NCu9pS-kkCll

 

_iYJFkcitG3ztfHOz0Rki0S2F7iUrS1r6jKIQkXS

 

_Zmw7zTdMkeUGpI2PDutEPE2eZfBeWCyVMZQUG39

Link to comment
Share on other sites

and more herbivores - the reedbuck, the kob, the waterbuck, the Tiang, the hartebeests, the buffaloes, the giraffes mixing and blending in with the birds hoping to catch the insects stirred by the beasts.

 

O1sot-0yy9fJT0MsCGKU1v8vNjuV3k7VRMcBMYJD

 

ecSts9ddva3TlQUktPPC8Ha1ngUaUVYUN4KsWttJ

 

uDc8RaMX7WCQSaan41lCX8wAOyHMoPd4DynPgcbB

 

Hno9_pJYx1lGLPgcATe-bDqsjlFIuUQ4vyBmSd_8

 

7HFagHSI5y7pb2EvAsMBAP2sHLb-BJsKyZiceR8i

 

tHIJxlalXydhMu-sIys8UxRy3UDAtoc5bQ4CupMz

 

not a good picture in the low light of this good looking reedbuck stag but he deserves to show off even if my phototaking skills don't.

 

KF29JuYeu6jRtjW92U_v_YRzOUKJFLGtzqzGpogn

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We were returning to the quelea roost that evening for the sounds of millions of flapping wings and calls, the heat of a million tiny bodies. I don’t have good pictures of the queleas once again, as the low light cancelled out any brave attempts my bridge camera could make.

 

While the boys (and @Sangeeta) ventured deep into the dark hot whirls and twirls of chirping wings, I watched the setting orb of the sun shimmered on the waters as the birds flew by, marking the end of another day.

 

fFOUiAd6CQ5B1dPCS3JoW1zXhU4uDV8DeojpnSfS

 

u9j9lyObji_Bx3ghbVonque8-a5r2uaJLV186tzV

 

EExLUNH18y4naKd814alrNMWzVDnpggDYeFukPqH

 

 

OwneO0UPdBqfbxVVTveylfcWNpRpKkyPd85Wx3TJ

 

VSOjgCCAphOZ3nc6rhGztS9-9mbgwJzqH2EGNS9d

 

the mad chaos of a million birds

 

zl62peq4TVoAPL64rCYsItMj5Oe9m3pVwM6RHpNT

 

and the cacophony of the queleas. as we went near the birds, the temperature rose by a degree or two.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Kitsafari This continues to amaze me. What a wonderful place! And I loved the photos. The video at the end isn't working, says it's 'private', so perhaps you can re-post please? Gary's Roots of Heaven arrived - a very old and battered copy and I'm looking forward to reading it so thanks for the heads up on it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Safaritalk uses cookies to ensure you get the best experience on our website. By using Safaritalk you agree to our use of cookies. If you wish to refuse the setting of cookies you can change settings on your browser to clear and block cookies. However, by doing so, Safaritalk may not work properly and you may not be able to access all areas. If you are happy to accept cookies and haven't adjusted browser settings to refuse cookies, Safaritalk will issue cookies when you log on to our site. Please also take a moment to read the Terms and Conditions and Privacy Policy: Terms of Use l Privacy Policy