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Zambia 2017 ( Kafue NP, August) & (Liuwa Plains NP + Kafue NP, November)


Grasshopper_Club

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Very nice report! Keep it going, looking forward to the northern and Liuwa sections!

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Loving this report. What a special place! The otter pics are gorgeous. And I’m learning from all of your bird and antelope pics.

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Amylovescritters

Omg I LOVE the otter!

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Grasshopper_Club

Day 4 / Afternoon

 

Well again I got a private vehicle with Steve and Brad. Steve asked me if i would like to see another area but warned me that there is not much game down there. We saw some Lion tracks moving toward that direction in the morning. I was more than happy to go there, as I've seen the other areas more or less and had some vercy nice game sightings in the days before. So I wouldn't bother if we wouldn't see that much.

 

The place i called Mubi Plains, if I spell that one correctly.

 

As they warned,  there was no animal down here we could find, even the birds looked like disappeared on that drive. But nevertheless a very nice landscape down here. We spotted the tracks from the Lions again but no luck.

 

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Nice sundowners and nice colors late in the evening.

 

We chatted for a long time and according to Steve this was a very good game viewing place years earlier, but something must be going on down here (illegal activity). We later on saw an Oribi far in the distance, gosh that one was running for his life as our vehicle was aproaching. So you also could see that the behaviour of the only animal we saw, was given that theory a verfication.

 

He also mentioned that another camp down there could help to get a presence, as the whole area is only covered by Nanzhila as the only tourist option. In which I totally agreed.

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I can't remember that one..

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On our way back towards camp in a big open field which was burnt before, we saw this amazing Serval hunting for mice.

 

We spent over half an hour with him/her. Sometimes it was just as having the Serval in your car, as we stopped and looket at him.

 

A very nice sighting. Especially as we went further north, we spotted 2 more servals. So this was serval night.

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But the first sighting was the best one so close and relaxed. Nice last game drive here at Nanzhila.

 

More stuff n the way back.

Giant eagle owl

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Close behind Camp:

Sharpe's grysbok

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Sadly the last day at Nanzhila. A place i really loved.

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@GrasshopperClub I loved your report so much and was so surprised by all the sightings in the Nanzhila Plains that I realize that on a trip in the future I'll simply have to visit it. In the future I'd love to combine Liuwa Plains, Kasanka and Liuwa Plains National Parks. I think  I may indeed simply add another trip to Kafue along with it. 

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@Grasshopper_Club so pleased that Nanzhila delivered so much for you. I well know that feeling of sadness on leaving.

 

I was very interested that your elands were so relaxed - I 've only seen them once at Nanzhila and the herd I saw raced off very quickly. Did you also get to see the wildebeest?

 

Now looking forward to more of your Kafue adventure.

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Amylovescritters

 Serval pics are incredible... Well, all pics are amazing but extraordinary serval images :)  I just keep racking up more and more must see soon destinations. 

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Grasshopper_Club

@Galago Yes, that was my thought an otter and gosh, just that little time frame of seeing him. And fortunately all settings on the camera were right, nice last light down the Nanzhila riverbed. Pure luck I would suppose.

 

@Caracal No, I don't saw the Wildebeest down @ Nanzhila. But later on this trip on the Busangas.

 

 

Day 5:

 

Final taughts on my stay at Nanzhila Plains:

  • Very good sightings and especially the variety
  • Lovely Camp
  • Very well run and great ethusiastic owners!
  • Completely different Landscape compared to any other patch of the Kafue
  • Home of endemic species like Black-cheeked Lovebirds
  • Especially very good value
  • Especially great area for nocturnal and the smaller animals.
  • Great diversity for antelopes as well

The southern part of the Kafue still has a bad reputation in terms of game viewing compared to the more northern options (Central part, Busanga Plains etc.). A fact that was proved as utterly nonsense during my 5 nights stay here.

 

When I discussed this topic with Steve, he hinted to me that the problem is, that people tend to stay not long enough in that area.

 

It's not uncommon that visitors are there for only 1 or 2 nights. Especially selfdrivers. And when you only stay one single night there and driving up north, I can understand that the sightings could be scarce. But to be honest who wouldn't expect that? Ok compared to the SLNP in the central area, yes in 1 day you could probably see it all with some luck. But yes, when these peoples go home and write a review or talking about that area, they will hint out that's not worth to visit this area of the Park. Which is a very sad thing.

 

I cannot highly recommend this Camp highly enough for someone who would like to spend more time in the Kafuea and see the difference compared to the more commen options more north.

 

So today I had a long drive! The transfer would be about 8-9 hours drive without much fuss to stop everywhere.

So we left at around 6:30 at Nanzhila. Brad would have to drive me up to Hook Bridge, the confirmed meeting point with Musekese.

 

I would suggest to do this trip with a stop in the central par of the Park if enough time is there. As said the transfer drive is more or less a full day without a stop at another lodge/camp in the central part of the park.

 

On our way out the Bateleur's bid farewell.

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Later on this morning we saw some interesting sightings from Sable up to Kudus and Elephants on the road up north to

 

Here s a little map with the route we've taken...

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Arriving on the southern shore of lake Itezhi-Tezhi...the first sightings of Pukus...and the beautiful shoreline with these dead trees in the water. Looks quite impressive.

 

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We were driving straigt through the gate and using the Itezhi-Tezhi road, which was graded by some chinese, hopefully tared before the rains started.

According to Brad they graded the roads a few years ago but didn't put tar on it and after 2-3 rainy seasons, the road was in a bad condition again...

 

Once we stopped for lunch and went forther on, quickly to get to Hook Bridge in time. at around 13:30 we arrived there, where I was met by Kolo. She occupies the newly created camp manager post at Musekese. I said goodbye to Brad, who had to drive back all the way down to Nanzhila! Poor Brad...about 14-16 hours driving in a day.

 

Kolo and I realised that we could have met closer the road where it get's into the camp, so we all could have saved up time. But as they expected us to come from the spinnal road and I was expecting them to transfer me up the Lufupa and taking the boat to the other side, we were all caught on the wrong foot. Nevertheless we could have possibly saved up 1-1:30, which is in the end not a big issue compared it with the total transfer time.

 

On our way in we saw good numbers of game, especially Zebras and Lichtenstein's Hartebeest and the usual good numbers of Imapalas and Pukus.

 

What I noticed straightforward was the damage on the trees and the undergrowth done by the Elephants. Kolo confirmed to me that the Ellies are now around everywhere at Musekese, a nice fact compared to the years before. When sightings of them were not as common everyday...

 

Finally we arived at about 16:30. I was greeted by James the new guide they have. Phil was in Lusaka I was told and Tyrone was with some guests at their camp in the Busangas. So I would meet both of them in 1-2 days later on.

 

I just rushed to get to my tent to unpack my bag and my camera equipment before dark.

 

Short view of the rooms:

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First sighting infront of my chalet...I love these Pukus...beautiful and so close and absolutely not scared abour your presence.

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So after this long drive, I skipped the opportunity for a short night drive and joined James at the maind deck for a sundowner. Which was later on accompanied by a wonderful Musekse dinner as usual.

 

I realised that during the good rains they had, the dambo was set up with much more water in the middle compared to 2016, when I stayed there at around the same time of the year.

 

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Grasshopper_Club

Day 6

 

During the nighttime I was suddenly awaken by some strange loud sounds...for me in the first place, quite metallic...I thought some gunshots maybe. On the morning asking everyne else about it, nobody heard anything. So I thought maybe not...later on I realised that this was from the petrol drums expanding during time to time in the backyard at the workstore. Ups...

 

So I was the only guest today in camp, I've decided to go to an early morning walk. Especially after that long drive the day before.

 

We just hopped into the car for a short while as we could see some fresh tracks of a leopard, we followed and as they left into the bush, we stopped and followed the tracks by foot.

 

A very interesting morning and we did a nice one, tracking the cat. But we couldn't go further as the bush was getting thick and we could here some lions in the distance from that direction in which we were heading. So we decided to go back to the car. Nevertheless the morning was more or less gone anyway.

 

Some flowers on the way..

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Bushbuck and Puku infront of camp..

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A lone Elephant taking a mudbath in the dambo.

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The locals around the main area...

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After lunch I stayed on the main deck for some photographs of the landscape and wanted to go back to my room....but not with that

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On our way to the boat in the afternoon:

Swallow Tailed Bee-eater

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Back again on the Kafue river and shortly afterwards the usual sighting of a Half-collared Kingfisher.

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African finfoot also a common one on these waters..

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Giant Kingfisher

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Sundowners and nice sunset on the Kafue river...

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@Grasshopper_Club your bird pics are fantastic, I especially like the collared kingfisher.

Keep up the great TR.

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Grasshopper_Club

Day 7

 

 

Well today we were listening to the lions roaring at the breakfast, so we jumped into the car and tried our luck with them. We realized that they were moving towards the camp and saw some fresh tracks very close to the carpark. They were now behind in the high grass somewhere,  we would have expected. We were driving down slowly and kept an eye on the backside of the camp. And the as we stopped in the distance, they moved slowly around the "island" of trees inbetween the dambo and the camp. For a long time we couldn't see them with our binos, but suddenly they moved quite a bit and went further away from camp straigtforward to the staff accomodation. Later on, we only get a glimpse when they were moving through the tree lines. No pictures here as it was too far away.

 

The Lion encounter changed quite dramatically this year around Musekese. Were we had the Lions last year in camp nearly every day, they were more dispersed. This happend due to the fact, that a new allaince of 2 males were entering the territory a month earlier before my arriving and pushed out the 2 brothers I've seen the year before.

 

 

 

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It was a nice morning but quite in terms of game, compared to the ususal suspects in the dambo and nearby.

 

In the afternoon we did the boat and it was a dream, We saw 5 different Kingfisher species (Malachite was to brief to take a picture).

 

We decided to roll down genlty on the river towards the Lufupa.

 

Monitor lizard.

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Pied Kingfisher with his catch of the day...

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Giant Kingfisher

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Half-collared Kingfisher again...

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I love these colours...maybe a little bit to oversaturated in LR. However I like it...

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After heading down the Kafue river, we turned round to see the Lufupa River and went into that stream. Always around the corner where the 2 rivers meet each other, a group of hippos will stand in the sandbank.

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On the right hand side, very close just shortly after we entered te Lufupa a Brown-hooded Kingfisher was posing brilliantly for us. Especially in the right light, the last minutes before the sun was going down.

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African openbill stork with his catch...

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A very nice day, With my best pictures of birds so far I would say and some great sightings especially all these different Kingfishers. As always on Safari, if something is missed on a day, there is always something different to enjoy .

 

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Towlersonsafari

an otter wow! @Grasshopper_Club greatly enjoying your report and some wonderful sightings

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Wow a clawless otter!  Nanzhilla sounds awsome but sad to hear wildlife is almost gone from the section where few tourists have gone.

 

 Musekesee binrgs back fond memories. You have a stunning series of the kingfishers, especially the pied kingfisher having its meals.

 

im thoroughly enjoying the report. Thank you.

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Grasshopper_Club

Day 8

 

Today was my transfer day to Ntemwa-Busanga in the afternoon. So I spent one more morning at Musekese for now. We had a short stroll down the dambo were we heard some Lions in the distance.

 

I really adore the landscape with the tree lines behind and the grass in front and the dambo in the middle.

 

An Elephant Bull heading towards the dambo..

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flocks of Impalas are often seen especially on the thicker bush behind the camp. You don't see them around the dambo, it's not their habitat of course.

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A view from south up north the lower dambo with a lot of groups of Pukus in it..

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The Elephant seen before, now in the dambo.

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Down at the Dambo we heard some alarm calls from the Pukus and they looked down to some bushes on the edges. We then spotted 3 Lions. These ones were laying under the shade but looked in a particular direction from time to time as well. So we tried our luck and went on from the backside as there is a track quote close. With our binos we luckily found

 

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some finer details of the interior of a Puku...^_^

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Finally we get a nice sighthing of a Lion.

 

 

 

Plans for this afternoon were mad as Phil and I left for Ntemwa for 5 nights. It was time so say goodbye to Musekese, but just for some days.

 

In the afternoon we started earlier around 2:30 to get to the boat and going down to Lufupa. On the ther side of the river is their other vehicle for that side. So we did it well and once on the car we tried to get though as quick as possible (Tsetse's and heat).

 

Some sightings on our way.

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Hippos laying around a mudbank on the upper Lufupa river, near the old Musanza site.The big fat one in the middle had a nasty broken back leg. Literally couldn't stand on his feet. It was painfull and also painfull to watch once it was standing up. According to Phil this one had a broken foot, for a month or so. But still alive,

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Quite soon after that area, where the Tsetses are at their worst, we were passing the old Musanze site. This was the place where the mobile camp was a year before.

 

A short overview over the camp in the next few days...

 

 

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Grasshopper_Club

Day 9

 

Today we started our first journey up north to the southern plains of the Busangas. An area which was already familiar for me, considered last years visit. I'ts a good and game rich area. Especially for Wildebeest and other antelope species.

 

We heard some lions in the morning and Phil was sure that these were a coalition of 2 male Lions, which were coming up from all the way from Lufupa this year.

 

We tried to get on them but we didn't see them or any tracks, the must have gone into the hide at the treeline further up.

 

We discussed that for today our furthest point north would be the airstrip. For the next day a big full day excursion up to the papyrus swamp was planned. As I really wanted to go there, because that's the point I've missed last year. So this request was not a problem for Phil as I was the only guest.

 

The first Red Lechwe can also bee seen on some ponds where still some water was in.

 

According to Phil, we kept our eyes peeled as well for cheetah. There are a lot of termite mounts around especially north of the new camp and on the left hand side.

 

We just come close to our first group of wildebeest.

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The road is following the treeline.

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Red Lechwe on the southern corner of the Busangas...

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You can see a pile of wood in the background. These are from the fishermen who can still fish in the National Park during several months a year after the floods. Unfortunately often the piles of these weirs are not taken out during the dry season by all the fishermens and can cause promlems for the fish to go back to the Busanga Plains during the rainy season up from the Lufupa river.

 

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Pied Kingfisher on the ground.

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An usual sighting in the Busanga Plains, the Oribis.

 

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Later on we spotted a group of crowned cranes with some Zebras as well. We spent more or less an hour with them and were photographing these magnificent birds flying in and out with the Zebras in the Background etc.

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The dance of the cranes....

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We had still good light and I love these Zebras with the Busanga landscape.

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Crossing the roadtrack.

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From the right hand side we could watch a big group of Roan coming in towards our direction.

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They went furter on and met the Zebras for some nice pictures having them all together.

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The martial eagle was attacked several times by the yellow billed kite? Can't remember 100%, but they had a nesting site quite close in the distance we could saw the nest. Was probably defending the nestsite.

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Senegal coucal

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A weavers nest

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And some nice sunset as well at the end of the day.

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Grasshopper_Club

Day 10

 

Today war our great trip up far north to the Papyrus swamp. To get there in time as soon as possible and left at 5:45.

 

Our aim was to be there before the sun would be to harsh to get some decent pictures from the Lechwes up there. So Phil took his camera equipment with him as well, as we were on our own, we would have the absolute freedom to take pictures of Lechwes half a day or so...;)

 

So we left camp only with a small toast as breakastand were on our way. Phil tol me that even he wasn't that far north at the Papyrus for some time. But for the Sitatunga you wold have to be there at 6:00 in the morning. So no chance from our position.

 

Early sunrise..

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Roan on our way north..

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The Wildebeest seen the day before was moving out of the treeline now into the open plains. The females were heavily pregnant and according the timetable which Ty told us before we left for the Plains, first recorded droppings in the past few years was actually at this time. So with some luck we could possibly see some youngsters later on.

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Warthogs..

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Rosy-throated Longclaw

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After the airstrip we passed these beautiful landscape, even without an animal they are just gorgeous.

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Now our first Red Lechwe...

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There were a lot of big groups of Red Lechwe up there, it is estiamted that about 5-7k of these are in the park now (Busanga Plains). The population was down at one point in the 50's to about a low less than 100 animals! I think that was when the Park was founded. Extraordinary! Hopefully we will see the same development one day with Ellies and probably with Rhinos in the Kafue es well!

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A group of Lechwes was running into the dry plains, quite funny to watch them running outside their prefered habitat the swamps. They are quite slow on dry terrains.

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We're getting closer to our target the Papyrus swamp, in the background you can see the first Papyrus.

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Finally we arrived at the end of the road and stopped in front of the Papyrus for a tea break and some nice pictures of a malachite kingfisher sitting on these papyrus.

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The scenery looks beautiful.

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Must be thrilling to be here at dawn when the chances are around to see the Sitatunga comming out of the papyrus or returning back from feeding on the grass outside.

 

The camp most north and close to the papyrus is Busanga Plains Camp. According to Phil, they would easily organise an early morning/night drive up there to see possibly the Sitatunga for interested people. I'ts mabye a 30minutes drive. In interestings option to consider for the future....or Kasanka:rolleyes:

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My favourite Lechwe picture.

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Further down on our way back, the tent in the background is from the Busanga Plains Camp. A very nice spot!

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We left the car from time to time go get some ground shots as well. But it was getting hoter and hoter and so the distortion is getting stronger as well...

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A funny one.....Puku and 3 different birds. Ground Hornbill, Marabou Stork, Hamerkop

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Another nice addtion to the landscape are these palmtrees/bushes in the background at that part of the plains.

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There are as well a lot of Hippos in these ponds in the plains. But probably due to the good rains this year, they were more visible, as these little stream and ponds dry out later.

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Phil decided then to stop under a beautiful big tree in the shade to have some packed lunch we had with us. In the plains in front of us were a hundreds of Pukus and Lechwes...

 

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It must have been now 14:00, so we left this nice and relaxing spot for our big drive back south to Ntemwa. Approximately a 3hours drive from here.

 

But shortly after we spotted a group of 30-40 Roan.

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In the distance on a pond a group of Buffalos! My first and only sighting this year. Last year I witnessed the big heard of 300-500 in the Busanga Plains.

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Still a lot of water even down at Shumba. I noticed that the game wasn't that dense around this place this time compared to last years visit, the activity was more on the north.

 

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After arriving back at Camp at around 17:00 I enjoyed a nice shower. As the drive back was very hot. We've seen many groups of Oribi, down on the southern edges of the Plains.

 

 

A pre-dinner campfire with some beers...enjoying our memories froom a very game rich day and having some philoshophical conversations abtou the possibly future of the park at another wonderful dinner and after dinner drinks followd..;)

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Edited by Grasshopper_Club
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some fabulous sightings and nice pics.

 

A Sitatunga was a no show last time I was at those swamps. It's a long trip even when staying on the Busanga plains.

Edited by Geoff
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Grasshopper_Club

Day 11

 

New day, new luck!

 

We started today with a drive down south to Musanza and later on to Treetops school camp.

 

Shortly after we passed the first treeline we spottd some Pukus in the middle of some patches of grass, surrounded by a lot of bushes. One of the Pukus was quite alarming but the others weren't much bothered, we tried our luck and were driving in that patch. Driving around all the bushes slowly and then....

 

A beautiful Leopard was passing his way around all these bushes and later on out in the field...

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Great start in the morning we tried to stay with the leopard but a gully which wasn't passable for us in the vehicle, stopped our tracking spirit for now. So we decided to went further down to a pool of Hippos for a short tea break and some pictures.

 

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After our stop at the Hippo Bay, we went into Treetops school camp to have a look around and so that Phil could have a chat with the guys from the ZCP (Zambian Carnivore Programm), if they had some news probably. I was here already last year.

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A big Baobab tree is in the middle and the main attraction.

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After a while we left and I just enjoyed the beautiful morning drive with it's nice Zambian landscape.

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Wattled cranes..

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After heading back to camp, we had lunch as usual on the nice deck, built a few meters above the ground. A nice view and you're getting some breeze.

 

 

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As usual the food here as well was very good and on a very high level. Lovely Pizza..

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After lunch we and a short nap we went for thel little stretch of water in front of camp, about a 5minutes drive. I'ts the most northern confluence of the Lufupa river, or where the Lufupa gets into the Busanga Plains.

 

The whole stretch is full of birds and crocs as well..

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Pied Kingfishers are everywhere and we watched them for a long time, brilliantly how they tried and tried to catch some fishes.

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Can you see all the crocs?;)

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Dangerous place to walk with these chicks...

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The Camp is not fare from that place but well camouflaged or placed into nature.

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Ntemwa-Busanga Camp

Some words about Ntemwa-Busanga Camp.

 

The camp consist of 3 or 4 guest tents. All tents are spacious and have a private bucket shower and fluhs toilet at the back. The whole camp is very nicely located in the surroundings and It was really comfortable and a real upgrade compared to the Musanza option last year (only shared toilets/showers).

 

Very comfortable beds as well. I really loved the laid back style of the camp and the good setting on the southern parts of the Busanga Plains. Compared with last year at the old Musanza area, it's easily 30-45min closer to the Plains and safes you a lot of precious time. Especially for photographing in the early morning hours with the golden light. You're in the plains at the right time. This was last year quite a tricky one.

 

 

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oh those photos of the Ntemwa Busanga camp brings back memories and that lunch on the deck reminded me of the fine meals we had there. 

what a lucky break to see the leopard! and the lechwes were stunning. I can't quite recall if we ever did go into the papyrus swamp - I think we did since we saw a lot of lechwes and pukus hanging out together but I may be wrong. 

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Grasshopper_Club

Day 12

 

On the evening before, other guests (a couple) arrived as well, my time having Phil as my "own" guide was over. But this was no problem, as we were only 3 on the vehicle.

 

Plans for today was going up again, up as far as the airstrip and having a look for some Lions. Again we heard them at breakfast from the north, they were still there.

 

Arriving on the southern treeline, a bunch of Crowned Cranes was hanging around and gave us some nice opportunities to take some nice pictures, or a try at least.

 

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Such an elegant bird, stunning to watch them flying over.

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We left the Cranes to get into the plains on the right hand side, as we spotted a group of Zebras again.

 

We had some nice early morning light still with us and it's great to watch them especially as some wildebeest grouped around the zebras as well.

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The Busanga Plains are a special place...aren't they?

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After a time we left them alone and went further north, when our guide Mr "Bokwe" found some tracks of some Bokwes..

 

Unfortunately they crossed into the treeline again, these ones were quite fresh. No luck now but maybe on our return drive back to camp.

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We were heading for the airstrip to have a look around if we could see the large herd of sable....maybe

 

fingers crossed...

 

oh there! a single Sable on command....but where's one Sable, there must be more...

 

We followed this Sable into the bush not far behind the airstrip...

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Here they are! A herd of 74 Sable (Phil counted them!)!!! Yes 74 Sable, just in front of us, so relaxed! We parked our car and just enjoyed the whole scenery for about half an hour.

 

What a thrilling sighting.

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Sometimes I had the feeling with my camera setting, only the DX Body and the 400mm, to be to close....

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These Sables here are so nice and beautiful in this color range of brown.

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Some of the Sable started to move slowly to the left hand side, but in peace and the rest remained in the grass.

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There were also some young ones with them.

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Now this is the Bull, who's in conrol of the herd. Completely dark! and much bigger then the rest of herd. The horns are literally touching the back.

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From now on, more and more Sable moved to the left.

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Goodbye Sable! We really enjoyed our stay here and left them in peace and thanked for that great sighting.

 

We just wen back to the airstrip to stop and have a teabreak, as it was time now.

 

View of the airstrip.

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A typical Kafue landscape. With some trees and a Candelabera tree / Euphorbia in the middle and this dry grass around.

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We're headed back to camp for some nice lunch again and were still very happy about our sighting, the newly arrived guests told me that they had seen a lot of Lion action around Musekese the last few days.

They had more luck than me this time. But we had the Busanga Plains for ourself more or less, haven't seen a vehicle...in the past 3 days.

 

 

Afternoon:

 

We just started our drive again in the lagoon in front of the camp at the most northern stretch of the Lufupa.

A huge flock of open billed storks...

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Pied Kingfishers everywhere. We tried our best, it was stunning to see  them catching that much fish...

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Gotcha!

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We spent again about an hour here and if Phil wouldn't have decided to leave to place once, I still would be there sitting and watching the action...;)

 

We were driving down to the Musanza area, where we've seen the Leopard the day before. Just maybe we would have luck.

 

On our drive down we spotted a Böhms bee-eater! Nice one, I knew that there is a breading colony in the roadtracks at old Musanza. So it was a good area to see them. They are quite rare and not commonly seen in the Kafue, only at special places.

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No Leopard but the Pukus were there.

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We enjoyed our sundowners, G&T as usual.

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After sundowner we went back to camp and had our nightdrive, we haven't seen anything all the way back.

 

But suddenly very close to camp, some eyes of a Leopard on the mount of an anthill with his prey. It was so close, we could here the staff talking in the kitchen from here.

 

The Leopard moved then downards from the anthill into the higher grass and laid down. So nice one at the end of the day. We went then back to camp 1min drive...having another fantastic meal...I should make more pictures of theseas well...

 

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Edited by Grasshopper_Club
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Grasshopper_Club

Day 13

 

So today was time to say goodbye to Ntemwa as I had my transfer back to Musekese for 2 more nights there.

 

We left early today as well, I was on the game drive with the other guest for a short drive around the anthils just in case we could find the leopard from the night before. But no luck today. So I was dropped of again at camp and said goodbye.

 

Malambo would drive me down to the pier at Lufupa, where I would be met by Phil who left camp on the night before. So James was coming in to guide these guests staying still in Ntemwa.

 

We had a nice relaxing drive down and enjoyed the scenery for a last time up here.

 

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This bushbuck just starred at us for minutes..

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This is a place near Lufupa and nicely looking but there is not much game in there, compared to the other side of the kafue river at Musekese. The Puku numbers are much lower here. THere were as well several bushires around Lufupa at that time.

 

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Arrived at the pier at Lufupa and welcomed by Phil, a car was arriving from a transfer from Ila Lodge, 2 more guests were coming on to Musekese.

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Arriving at the pier of Musekese..

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Musekese Camp

 

Just a short overview about the main area and the chalets. I love this camp not only to the superb guiding but also the fact that it sets very nicely into the landscape and the special spot with the dambo in front.

 

The camp is in my opinion very luxurious and gives you everything you really need to feel comfortable without going over the top.

 

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So they put these fly nets in front this year, last year it was all open.

On

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On the veranda ...

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The resident bushbuck was always around my room during the next 2 days.

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Afternoon

 

So after 5 days in the Busangas I missed the boat and decided, that it was time again.

 

We joined the boat and shortly after we checked a former hamerkop's nest, and whuups....an owl....

 

to fast for a decent picture but nice to show anyway.

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Another half-collared kingfisher, keeping my rate at 100% for that species on the Kafue river.

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We were going upwards and hm, these treelines at the river are beautiful.

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brown-hooded kingfisher.

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mid size croc, there are much bigger ones in here..

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The first island.

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In the distance we watched an african figh eagle and then suddenly we saw a big group of waterbucks coming down to the river out of the big grass for a drink.

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getting closer...

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Weavers nest and Mr. Weaver...

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Skimmers around Skimmers Island..

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The sundowners on the river are always special and accompanied by some G&T's even better. The snacks they are giving you as well are outstanding.

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Back on the car, we had a nice gamedrive and we spotted a lot of bushbabys. Really nice to see them but no chance to get a picture. We saw the bushbaby (great brown galago) and the lesser bushbaby (mohol bushbaby) were seen on different occasions. Cute little animals especially the latter.

 

Instead we get one of the owl.

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Grasshopper_Club

Day 14

 

Another day in Paradise. I decided to go again on a game drive instead of a walk, due to the fact of the possbility to take my heavy photo gear with me and maybe who knows, we could get a good sighting of these new male lions. We heard them during the evening before again. But no luck today..

 

We crossed the south dambo at the beginning.

 

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There were some bush pigs in the dambo, as it was still early a usual scene. I've seen them here several times during my recent trips to Musekese as well.

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The Pukus were slowly moving into the dambo, as they tend to stay in the bush during the night.

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A fantastic antelope, especially in the real light at the right time.

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A view from south up to the dambo, at this time of the day still quite and empty.

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We hadn't much luck on the game drive. So it was one of the quitest mornings i had.

 

 

Back at camp, the dambo was again full with animals. Just in front of our camp. Pukus, Waterbucks etc.

 

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The Bushbuck in front of my chalet going into the dambo for a drink.

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Later on during my siesta time, I could see a big group of Ellies crossing the dambo north of my chalet.

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They were drinking out of one of these pools here and playing around in the mudd.

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So this was my last avtivity in the afternoon and I was giving the boat another goer.

 

Shortly after we went on the boat our first half-collared Kingfisher...

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Then later on we had the opportunity to have some good views of some pied Kingfishers in the right light.

If you're on the boat and experienced it several times as I did, you realise that the conditions are never the same, especially when taking pictures. Sometimes the wind is stronger and therefore more waves on the river, which makes the boat more unstable and giving you a hard time to get good pictures out of it. On other occasions there are clouds and not much sunlight, a difficult one especially along these reeds.

 

 

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On the boat one of the other guests just might thought to have seen a Lions face on the riverbed on a gully comming into the main river.

So we just went back and had a watch about the possible area, she was sure to have seen a Lioness or maybe another big cat as Phil suggested (Leopard).

 

We couldn't see anything but then suddenly into the dried out gully, there was a dead warthog lying around. Big male warthog with some blood on it but nothing eaten.

 

We just must have disturbed the Leopard (Phil was now sure it was a Leopard) from eating it.

 

We decided to pass by and would come back on the other side of the river and have a sundwoner there and maybe with some luck from the distance.

 

So we were keeping our route on up to the north for abotu 15minutes with some nice birding (Kingfishers) as well, then turned round and had a look to find the right gully again.

 

We did and the warthog was still there, but no sign of a Leopard so I set anker and we had a special sundowner there.

 

We shortened up our drinks and Phil suggested to go back to the pier as quick as possible and get into the car, as there is a road from the back joining this gully, so we could possibly see the action from that side, maybe when it was getting dark.

 

On our way to the place...

Seeing a nightjar in the daytime quite a special.

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We waited then once we found the spot for half an hour or so, until it was getting completely dark. We already noticed on the boat that a croc was in the water in front of the gully and waiting, so it was there to wait for the right time. We just gave the others with Ty a shout on the radion so that they could come as well. Furthermore I noticed that the warthog was moved in the meantime, it was now further away from the water, so something was here in the time once we rushed back to the pier to get to the car.

 

And literally at he moment when it was getting dark, the croc was moving inland. And just at that time, the Leopard jumped into the action from the high grass, just in front of us!!


He was there all the time, but we couldn't see him, just beneth the kill safely placed into the high grass.

 

At the moment when the croc was coming close and it was coming close and quick, the Leopard take a jump on the croc. And so did the croc! I was stunned, about how far a croc can jump standing on his hind legs...gosh

 

After that short and loud brawl, in which even Phil didn't get the torch on the subject, we waited and only saw the leopard once again and the croc underneath. So the Leopard was moving but the croc didn't, first of all I thought te croc was dead, but no way. This croc was definitely to big for the Leopard to kill it.

 

So they were both feeding on the kill and shortly after a while a second big croc as well, was coming into the dinner space.

 

So the Leopard had to fight all over again to get a piece of the warthog. He used his claws from time to time to get on the eyes of the crocs....clever thing...

 

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At one stage one Croc left and then the Leopard got the chance again to feed, but the second croc didn't left and at the end it took the las remaining part with him to the water and dissapeared and let the Leopard behin on his own.

 

I would say, they Leopard killed the warthog but get only about 20% of it to feed on. These crocs get he rest.

 

We realised then that the Leopard was injured on his foot and was limping. We couldn't tell if it happend from the Crocs or if it was from the warthogs tusks.

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Phil reassured us that these Leopard have a good healing with the time and that he should be fine. (Later on in November he confiremd to me that he has seen the Leopard a few days later cimbing up a tree with his wound, we later on in November spottted that same male again, he looked then even bigger!).


We left then the place and returend back to the camp and had a very enjoyable evening with a lot of chats about thes great sightiing of the Leopard fighting 2 big crocs!

 

I will post a movie once processed as well, i was able to film most of the action.

 

Cheers

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Grasshopper_Club

 

Here's a short video compiled in  a short time, but the most important stuff is in...

 

Leopard vs. 2 Crocs

 

 

Edited by Grasshopper_Club
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@Grasshopper_Club It's probably best that you upload your video to Youtube or Vimeo, rather than attaching it as a downloadable file on Safaritalk. More people will be able to see it and it won't take up a chunk of ST server space.

 

Matt

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