Kruger Jan 2018: Birding and braaiing in the park

[xelas]

5 hours ago, Tdgraves said:

Back to camp to light the braai....

 

But, have we seen any of your brain photos already?! A sizzling steak over a slow burning wood fire would made my day !

[Tdgraves]

2 minutes ago, xelas said:

 

But, have we seen any of your brain photos already?! A sizzling steak over a slow burning wood fire would made my day !

 

Brain photos ??!!!????

Sorry @xelas, I didn't take any. Didn't take the tripod as there is too much light pollution to consider star photos there, compared with KTP....

[xelas]

Oh, the autocorrect is back, must find a way to switch it off. I was asking about braai photos !! For night sky I understand, both for light pollution and for lack of Milky Way.

[Tdgraves]

@xelas I realise that you meant braai!! I normally take photos of the fire, if I am warming up for stars.....The Milky Way is there, but you probably need to go to small wilderness camps to see it.

[offshorebirder]

And I love the Roller with the scorpion in its bill!

 

[Tdgraves]

Day 7, Morning drive, Lower Sabie, 3/2/18

 

We awoke to dense cloud and it was cool at 23 degrees with intermittent rain. We again went south towards crocodile bridge, as we would be going north later to transfer to Satara. The plan was to go down via the S28 and back up the tar road, I had the 5D today. The S28 was very quiet, but we managed to get a new bird, a juvenile ovambo sparrowhawk

 

 

 

we were about 2 km north of crocodile bridge when we found a gathering of vehicles, because of this...

 

 

A pride of lions were crossing the road. We were actually in quite a good position, although we ended up on the wrong side of the road after they crossed. we could have repositioned, if it weren't for a very excitable lady in a small red car who kept going backwards and forwards in front of us saying "11 lions! 11lions!" repeatedly!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

and one from the 7d with the 1.4x extender

 

 

We noticed more vehicles on a side road and we were getting a bit fed up with the jostling, so we decided to investigate. It was the males

 

 

but they were also fed up and left! We were able to get past to Crocodile bridge for a pit stop, where the staff were excitedly talking about the lions. The rest of the drive was pretty quiet (and dark), but there were a few birds

 

 

 

 

Back to camp to pack up and breakfast in the restaurant

[Tdgraves]

Day 7, transfer to Satara, 3/2/18

 

We had a good breakfast in the restaurant and then a traditional vocal/dance group turned up to provide entertainment. I have never seen anything like it before in the Kruger and don't know whether it was because it was Sunday. The sleeping buffalo on the river bed were  not impressed and ran really fast across the river and kept running to get away from the strange noise with the repetitive beat!

 

So it turns out that today will be peak cat day. It is still cloudy as we set off from Lower Sabie.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We were making good progress north (i.e. few sightings) when we encountered a cluster of OSVs and cars, next to this guy

 

 

Who was repeatedly calling. We could hear faint replies to our left. By pure chance, we got a great position. We were in the middle of the vehicles when he started to move. No one knew where he was going and as we'd arrived last, we just left everyone to manoeuvre before deciding what to do. Just as the OH engaged reverse, he appeared from a bush, right next to us!

 

 

 

He called again and then decided to cross right in front of us

 

 

 

and then he was gone. What timing! We carried on up the road to Tshokwane where we had a break. It was already getting busy with the lunch time rush, but they seem to have got the primate problem under control. Not 1km out from the picnic site and our next sighting was....a cheetah!

 

 

Under a bush, such that several people drove past without stopping 

 

From the 7D

 

 

The rest of the drive was uneventful and we made good progress up to Satara

 

 

 

Time to check in

[Tdgraves]

Day 7, Evening drive, Satara, 3/2/18

 

Forgot to mention, there was another lion sighting on the transfer, two females virtually entirely obscured by bushes, so we rather caused consternation when we only slowed down enough to make an ID and then moved on!

 

We did a northern loop to end on the S100. It was striking how little rain there must have been. It wasn't as bad as in previous drought years, but the lack of fresh green grass was very apparent. We saw no white storks and no widowbirds in our entire trip, in contrast to last year. The top part of our rectangular route was a complete bust. We were nearing the junction where we planned to turn south, when a car containing 4 young men slowed down, deciding whether or not to tell us about a sighting. (I have noticed that in the Kruger people are really reluctant to pass on news (despite flying a yellow ribbon) in stark contrast to the Kgalagadi when you can't stop them from doing so.) About 3-4km up the road i.e. where we would not have been going, were some cheetah on a termite mound! Judging distance, especially when not planning to is very difficult and the OH was all for giving up and turning around, when another 500m or so further on, there they were!

 

 

 

 

 

 

It was time to hunt. Another vehicle had arrived and we went back to our original route, hoping that they would cut across onto it, but we soon lost them in the long grass

 

 

This road also had very little game on it

 

 

 

There were more cars on the S100, but animals were few and far between. Time to get up for this one though....

 

 

 

 

We caught up with a car ahead as we were calculating how many Kms it was back to camp and how little time we had to do it. We couldn't see what they had stopped for ,until a helpful arm pointed out of the window and with a bit of movement, there they were...

 

 

Two lion cubs!

 

from the 7D

 

 

What a day for predators, if not photography. Dinner in the restaurant tonight, the new Tindolvu enterprise and early indications are good, certainly a better quality and choice than in Berg-en-Dal

[Tdgraves]

Day 8, Morning drive, Satara, 4/2/18

 

We woke up to cloud cover today and it was 22 degrees when we left camp. I had the 7D. We went south and did a square loop, I can't remember if it was the S125 or S126, however, it was very quiet and in contrast to last year, there were not even not even many birds

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

we had a comfort break at the Muzandzeni picnic site where there was a couple of birds

 

 

 

 

we then went across the main road on another gravel road towards the Timbavati picnic site

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

we were quite near the picnic site when we were flagged down by a lady leaving a sighting with two vehicles left - a pack of wild dogs resting, split into two smaller groups!

 

 

We had a very good spot next to one half of the group whilst the two other vehicles were next to the other half

 

 

They gave us good opportunities, as they were constantly moving around, trying to find the best spot to sleep in, although as I was driving, i couldn't try much as I was on the wrong side of the car

 

 

 

 

It was getting late and as the temperature rose, they were becoming less active, so we decided to move on for a comfort break at the timbavati picnic spot

 

 

On the way back we had a good steenbok sighting

 

 

 

and the first ground hornbills of the trip

 

 

 

A long drive as there was not that much to stop for, so back to camp for a well earned rest!

[Tdgraves]

Day 8,  birding around camp, Satara, 4/2/18

 

I had a wander around at siesta time and the temperature had really climbed - we needed a swim before we could set off on an evening drive!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

so off for a drive...

[Atdahl]

@Tdgraves - What a great trip report and photos!  I know a trip to Kruger is in our future someday and that day may come sooner rather than later after seeing how great your trip has been so far.  Looking forward to the next installments.

 

Alan

[Tdgraves]

6 minutes ago, Atdahl said:

@Tdgraves - What a great trip report and photos!  I know a trip to Kruger is in our future someday and that day may come sooner rather than later after seeing how great your trip has been so far.  Looking forward to the next installments.

 

Alan

 

@Atdahl Hi Alan, thanks. if you are not yet convinced, have a look at my previous Kruger TRs - we have always had a really good time but different on each visit...

[Tdgraves]

Day 8, evening drive, Satara, 4/2/18

 

It was hot and another quiet drive. We had to revisit the dog site, just in case, but of course, they had moved on

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

a couple from the OH

 

 

 

 

 

Back to camp for a braai...where all of the action was, being on the perimeter. There were hyaena and jackal and later on an owl (which we did not manage to ID)

[offshorebirder]

Ther Vervet portair is choice @Tdgraves!     I like the female Kudu shot as well.

 

 

[Tdgraves]

19 minutes ago, offshorebirder said:

Ther Vervet portair is choice @Tdgraves!     I like the female Kudu shot as well.

 

 

 

thanks @offshorebirder I'll pass the congrats on to the OH

 

the monkey is now his facebook photo!!

[Tdgraves]

Day 9, morning drive, Satara, 5/2/18

 

We again awoke to dense cloud cover and the drive was pretty quiet. I had the 5D today. One of the highlights was being totally surrounded by a herd of eles

 

 

we decided to go to the Sweni dam - what a difference a year makes, the water level was very low again, which meant easy pickings for the saddle-billed storks

 

 

while someone else looks on enviously....

 

 

 

 

 

 

For some reason, the male wanted to land his catch before eating it. Big mistake.

 

 

 

The moment that someone spotted their opportunity....

 

 

Face off!!

 

 

 

 

The stork got bored (or was scared of the talons) and gave up

 

 

The thief escapes with the spoils

 

 

one from the 7D

 

 

 

 

 

This one decided to do some fish farming....

 

 

and ended up putting it back into this tiny puddle!

 

 

There was nothing to report on the drive back to camp, but what a good decision to go to the hide!

[Zim Girl]

Great pictures of the stand off between stork and fish eagle.

[offshorebirder]

I agree - amazing photo sequence of the Saddle-billed Stork and the Fish Eagle.    The stork learned a tough lesson it seems.

[Peter Connan]

Indeed, a lovely sequence!

[Tdgraves]

Day 9, birds in camp, Satara, 5/2/18

 

I didn't do a walk around camp, but there were a few birds near our chalet

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Time for siesta

[Tdgraves]

Day 9, evening drive, Satara, 5/2/18

 

The OH refused to go on the S100 again, so we went on some gravel roads around where we had seen the dogs. It was hot and again, quiet.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We ended up near the dam, with a few other vehicles

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It looked as if the buffalo were preparing to cross the road, so I and a car behind me decided to reposition onto the road, hoping that they would cross in front of us. They began to egde closer, our plan was working. Unfortunately, some idiots in a tiny car (presumably having just entered the park and wanting to get to camp before the gates closed) overtook us. This wouldn't have been so bad if they then had not stopped directly in front of us, too scared to push through the herd. GRRRRR. And there they sat, not moving forwards or backwards and now freaking out the buffalo. Excellent. Eventually I had to call it a day and went past them. The buffalo had stopped crossing anyway. Not a sign of regret or apology from the tiny car. Idiots. I guess we are lucky that this sort of thing rarely happens....

[Tdgraves]

Day 10, morning drive, Satara, 6/2/18

 

It was a sunny morning and the OH relented and let us drive the S100, which was completely dead . I'm not sure that the camera was raised until nearly the top of the next road, where we had a quick glimpse of a duiker

 

 

 

and we then saw this hyaena at a waterhole that we didn't even know existed!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We had to get back to camp to check out and had a decent breakfast in the restaurant

[Tdgraves]

Day 10, Transfer from Satara to Letaba, 6/2/18

 

We hadn't even left Satara and we had spotted a new bird - a Kurrichane thrush, outside reception

 

 

 

They have cut down a lot of trees here and I hope that there is a plan in place.

 

The drive was long and boring (well, you can't exactly get bored on safari, but you know what I mean), with only a couple of stops

 

 

First Kruger yellow-billed oxpeckers though

 

 

Despite having had a good breakfast, we still managed lunch in the Letaba restaurant, where we took in the fabulous view before checking in to our last new room of the trip.

[TonyQ]

Wow, you really had some great sightings on this trip and some lovely photos (from both of you!)

[Tdgraves]

thanks @TonyQ