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At the end of our visit to the Kafue in 2015 we told @KafueTyrone & @PhilJ that we’d be back to see the “new Musekese” so at this years “Destinations” travel show we talked to @Tony Busanga (Busanga Safaris) about a return.  As we also wanted to see somewhere new, Tony suggested a week in South Luangwa and “job done”  I thought, until Vicky threw a spanner in the works by asking if we could also squeeze in a couple of days at the Victoria Falls!


Tony, of course, wasn’t fazed at all and after some jiggling with dates, we were soon booked on Emirates new route out of Stansted to Lusaka via Dubai with our itinerary:

     Pioneer Camp (Lusaka) 15th June
     Musekese (Kafue) 16 - 18 June
     Norman Carr (South Luangwa) 19 - 25 June on their "Week on the Wild side" package staying at Kakuli, Nsolo & Luwi
     Waterberry Lodge (Livingstone) 26 - 28 June.


Although Stansted is the normal haunt of Ryanair & EasyJet quick breaks to Europe, flying from there is a real no-brainer for us as we’re only a 15min taxi ride from home to the airport – so much less hassle & stressful than the “anywhere between 1 & 4 hrs” it takes to get to Heathrow so I could save myself a days holiday by going into work for the day and still be at the airport in plenty of time for a drink at the bar before our 21:10 departure.

The only downside of this was that at Dubai the aircraft (a pretty much brand new 777) didn’t park at a terminal air-bridge so we had a long unguided bus tour of the airport to the terminal building then had the reverse back to the same place to get on our Lusaka flight (another 777)!


Arrival at Lusaka was relatively painless as once the high-rollers/diplomats etc had cleared their line at immigration we were waved through to the front and quickly had our KAZA Univisas, collected our bags and met our driver from Pioneer who was waiting for us.  There have been some discussions here on the merits of getting your visa online ahead of time but I don’t think it saves you any time as it is only a “pre-approval letter” and you still have to queue up with everyone else to actually get your passport stamped.


We were at Pioneer camp in time to have a walk round, grab a Mosi and have a chat with the other guests before enjoying an excellent steak (and another Mosi) before arranging breakfast for 5:30 so we could beat the morning traffic.



Pioneer Camp - Make yourselves comfortable - anywhere except my chair!


Unfortunately, we slept a little too well and had to be woken by the kitchen staff when we hadn’t turned up by 10 to 6!!  We’d got everything ready the previous evening so after throwing our clothes on & bolting our breakfasts down we didn’t keep Mango waiting too long and were soon on our way.

The drive to Musekese from Pioneer is about 5hrs but we weren’t long off the tarmac road when we disturbed a herd of Sable – a nice welcome indeed











And it wasn’t too long before we arrived to a warm welcome from Kolo at Musekese and we were soon joined by Phil, Tyrone and new guide James.



Our "humble abode" at Musekese





More to come soon!

Edited by AfricIan
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2 hours ago, AfricIan said:

There have been some discussions here on the merits of getting your visa online ahead of time but I don’t think it saves you any time as it is only a “pre-approval letter” and you still have to queue up with everyone else to actually get your passport stamped.


Thanks for that tip @AfricIan - I am in the earliest planning stages of a 2019 Zambia safari and appreciate tips like that.  Sounds much the same as Kenya - rather do Visa on Arrival myself.


I am looking forward to following this trip report.

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@offshorebirder - I certainly got the impression that the "pre-approval letter" was an unnecessary "faf" involving getting mug-shots taken & uploaded, those that had them didn't seem to be being processed any faster than those without.  In our case we couldn't have done it anyway as you can't get the KAZA UniVisa pre-approved.

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Thanks all, back to Musekese


For our “afternoon activity” we elected for a “familiarisation drive round” – mainly to get our bearings again, it being 3 years since we were last here and only for 4 days at that!

One thing that Phil & Ty believe strongly is that annual burning of the grass is not a good thing and that a more natural cycle would only see a natural fire about once every 5 years so, in the main,  they haven’t carried out the widespread routine burns that many other areas carry out.  This does make game viewing “interesting” but as you’ll see later, not impossible





 There was still plenty of water around for the Wattled Lapwing








and this Black-bellied Bustard blends in nicely





whilst it’s always nice to sit and watch the elephants & puku as the shadows begin to lengthen


















Next morning we were up bright and early with the mist still filling the dambo,



ready to head out on foot with Phil and Brian, our DNPW ranger – we started out in the landy but our progress was delayed slightly as this chap seemed very pleased to see us








We didn’t drive far and had probably been walking for a little under an hour when Phil gestured us to crouch down, whispering “dogs”.  It took me a while to spot them but sure enough





They were, in the main, however keeping behind the treeline and not particularly amenable to being photographed but whilst we were waiting for the dogs to move more into the open we got a fine flypast by this Tawney Eagle














before the α-female moved into clear(er) view








We thought we’d been spotted





and  then she seemed to relax a little and we could still just about make out the other pack members moving around behind the bushes/trees





but then with ears in full “radar dish” mode it was clear that the game was up





and we got a good barking to before she headed back behind the treeline and the pack headed off.

We were just calming down ourselves and discussing if we should try to follow the dogs (bit of wishful thinking on foot perhaps?) when Brian suddenly pointed over to the right with the magic word “Lion” as he headed past us, clearly “on a mission”





More discussions followed and it was decided that Phil would scoot off & get the vehicle whilst we had a cup of tea/coffee and we would try to pick up the dogs – probably a somewhat higher chance than we would have on foot.  Our other guests had a GPS app on his phone & had been tracking our walk and as we clambered back onto the landy, announced that we’d walked a total of 0.9 miles at an average speed of 0.5 mph – not many calories burnt off this morning then!


We didn’t find the dogs, but did find our lion, who had joined up with one of his females








whilst the male appeared to be more interested in the Bateleur Eagle flying above










before turning his attention back to us





African Wild Dogs and Lion whilst on foot - all in, “not a bad morning” :):)

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Sounds like an adrenaline-packed morning's walk @AfricIan!



This appears to be my "pith-post".

Edited by offshorebirder
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@Africlan and @offshorebirder.....congratulations on great achievements!  Sure do hope that those dogs stay in the area.  What a great walk...so much better than just bugs!

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Very exciting @AfricIan ! I did not know about a Stansted option how long did it take to get to Lusaka in total? Looking forward to the rest of your report

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@offshorebirder Congratulations on your “Order of the Pith”, I’m please I could help (in a tiny way) to make it happen ;)

@Towlersonsafari 7hrs to Dubai, 2 ¼ hrs in Dubai (but given that there were bus transfers from & to the aircraft the time in the terminal was much less) then 7hrs to Lusaka so 16½ hrs.  Coming back was scheduled for 17¾ hrs with a slightly longer stop in Dubai and just under 8hrs to Stansted – in the event we were over an hour late leaving Dubai as some numpties failed to find their way to the gate in time & had to have their bags offloaded but we were only ~15-20 mins late arriving at Stansted.
As I said, for us it’s a no-brainer but for folk coming from further away, Stansted does have its “issues”

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Thanks all for the likes & comments.


After the mornings excitement we were going for a relaxing trip on the Kafue river in the afternoon, Mission:  to see Finfoot and Skimmers skimming (although we were warned that Finfoot are notoriously elusive and that the river was still very high so they hadn’t seen many Skimmers yet)


The boat dock is still at the “old Musekese” camp location so it was back in the Landy for the 10 minute drive across the peninsula, passing this nice bushbuck en-route




and once in the boat mission 1 was soon ticked off







whilst up at “Skimmer Island”, these were the only 2 residents who, although they did do a few laps for us, failed to live upto their name, getting close on a couple of occasions but not actually skimming.







The Kafue river is always a nice place for a sundowner though and as the sun went down we headed back to the dock







We were about halfway back when we passed what Phil initially thought was a cormorant out in mid-stream but its true identity was revealed when it “ran” for the shore



Rubbish photo but it is an African Finfoot - honest!!


Once back in the Landy, our progress back to camp was halted by one of the locals who clearly couldn’t care less that our dinner was waiting!







What with the dogs & lion encounter in the morning, it had been quite an eventful day and Musekese was certainly living up to the high expectations we had.

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Congrats on the Finfoot @AfricIan!   

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Thanks all and on to our second full day at Musekese - To say this second morning was “quiet” would be a huge understatement – even the Puku had vanished and after an hour on the road the only mammal we’d come across was this Duiker - needless to say it didn't hang about for long either!




then just out the corner of my eye I noticed a movement on the ground just off the track. Phil then backed up and we found this Olive Whip Snake just about to swallow the tail of a lizard











The movement I’d noticed was that of the tail threshing about, not of the snake and of the lizard itself there was no sign so it wasn’t clear if the lizard had jettisoned its tail in response to the snake or for some other reason but we’d not seen any sign of any other predators so we’ll never know – The encounter did confirm the old saying that even when nothing is happening there is always something happening!


A bit further down the road we came across the fresh’ish remains of an impala which appeared to be the result of a dog hunt and from this, Phil’s theory was that the dog pack had run through scattering all before them which was why we weren’t seeing much but fortunately the river is always a good place to find ele’s 







and as we headed back to camp, a small group of Puku & what I think is a Red-necked Spurfowl






There was still a lot of water in the dambo so although James assured us that Bush Pigs were often seen, it was mainly birds that we could watch whilst relaxing on our deck, 


Great Egret



Grey Heron







African Jacana








Once again we opted for the river in the afternoon but as we headed down to the dock 2 puku were looking intently into the bush and not paying us any attention – clearly worried about something. After a few minutes however they seemed to relax so we jumped onto the boat – just as a chorus of alarm calls rang out!  A very quick discussion resulted in us jumping back off the boat & into the Landy – by which time all was quiet again so after waiting/listening for a while it was back on the boat.  This time we  at least managed to cast-off before another bout of alarm calls and James came onto the radio from the other vehicle to say he’d just glimpsed a leopard moving in the direction of the dock so it was back to the mooring & the Landy where, coordinating with James from the other direction, we tried to locate the elusive cat.
Despite both our best efforts, neither of us got any hint of the leopard – which was probably laid up just off the tracks laughing at us – so it was back on the boat for a much curtailed “sundowner cruise” which did at least yield us a Water Thick-Knee & Green-Backed Heron







Once back on dry land, we kept getting the “Popcorn” smell of leopard scent marking so it was clearly nearby but equally clearly it wasn’t going to be our evening for a leopard sighting but we did come across a nice African Barred-Owlet







Our second day was totally different from the first and sums up why we all love Africa - no two days are the same and in the main, you never know what's round the corner!


We were going to be leaving about 8:30 for the drive back to Lusaka so it was time to say cheerio to everyone at Musekese - although it had been a short visit it had been a good one and before we left, the early morning mists had pretty much cleared giving us a good view of the bush pigs over on the far side of the dambo 





Then it was time to head back to Lusaka where the lunchtime traffic was horrendous – fortunately Mango knew all the back ways and shortcuts so we had time for a drink & snack before our Proflight flight to Mfue. It was our first experience of Proflight & I was quite impressed, everyone was pleasant, the flights were on time, the aircraft appeared well looked after and there were the same number of landings as takeoffs – what more do you need.  Having said that, I may have had a different opinion had our bags been amongst those not loaded onto the aircraft in Lusaka, a fate that befell some of our fellow passengers (TiA?).


Prince was waiting for us at Mfue and a certain amount of confusion reigned as our itinerary had us staying at Kakuli (2 nights) to start with then moving on to Nsolo (3 nights) and finishing at Luwi (2 nights), whereas Prince had us down for Nsolo (3), Luwi (2), finishing at Kakuli (2).  We’ve not been to any of the camps so the order was, at the end of the day, of no consequence so we jumped into another Landy for the 2hr drive to Nsolo where Gloria was there to meet us.

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It had been dark when we arrived at Nsolo so we couldn’t get much of a look around but dawn broke with some spectacular colours



The chalets at Nsolo have a few more “creature comforts” than those at Musekese (not that we were slumming it in any way there!), so we had permanent lighting (from a solar panel bank at the back of the camp) and solar heated running hot & cold water to the “outside bathroom” (again from a solar panel but the water heating is per chalet not from a camp supply so it’s nobody’s fault but your own if you run out!)







Outside bathroom





We’d opted for a game drive this morning, passing these unusual bed-fellows



Hammerkop & Blue-eared Starlings



Swainson’s Spurfowl






Breakfast time

Then, relaxing in the shade, a small (~8) pack of Wild Dog – how lucky are we, dogs at Musekese then again on our first drive in South Luangwa!  They had obviously not long fed as they’d all got full bellies and still got red “faces”.

















Reluctantly, we left the dogs to their nap and headed back towards the river which, although no longer flowing on the surface, still had lots of pools.





Who can resist photographing a Lilac-breasted Roller or Little Bee-eater?





Or a “blue-footed” giraffe?





Then it was back to camp for brunch.


Edited by AfricIan
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Hi Ian,

I am pleased to see you and Vicky continue with the same passion for Africa every year.

Your days in Kafue were fantastic, this is a place that we have pending, perhaps for 2019. And Musekese looks great, maybe combine with their camp in Busanga.

Indeed great luck you had with the wild dogs, first in Kafue and nothing else arriving in South luangwa, fabulous !!




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@africawild Thanks Paco, just try to keep us away!!


Yes, Musekese is a fabulous camp, Phil & Tyrone are so enthusiastic & passionate and it rubs off onto their "employees".  When we visited in 2015 we "mobiled"  upto Busanga which was great and I think their semi-permanant camp would only add to the experience.  Hope you & Rosa make it there soon and you never know, maybe our paths will cross again one day.


Back in South Luangwa, I’m not sure if this Fork-tailed Drongo was hoping to join us for brunch or if it was just confused by the table decorations









After a welcome snooze, it was on-the-road again with a big herd of buffalo heading to the river bed














Then we headed towards where an elephant carcase had been found and where a pride of lions had camped out making the most of the opportunity











It was great just sitting watching the cubs playing and “tormenting” the adults – though one of the females did draw the line when her tail got “attacked”













Its not just Lake Manyara NP that has tree-climbing lions!







It’s going to end in tears!













Time for dinner!

The park rangers had been in to look at the elephant and it was a young-ish male, about 6 years old. It still had its tusks so the thinking was that it wasn't poachers that had killed it but with the lion pride so close they didn't want to disturb things too much so the cause of death was a bit of a mystery.


As darkness fell we found this little Grysbok





and a visit to a hyena den site yielded some occupants














At the end of another great day in Africa

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Great report, Ian, enjoying this a lot! Very cool you saw the Dogs at Musekese. That's such an absolutely perfect bush camp, and I also hope to return in the not too distant future.

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@michael-ibk Thanks Michael, whilst I still rate Ruaha as my favourite park (& Kichaka as my favourite camp), Kafue & Musekese run them close and it was a real pleasure to go back, even for the short time we had.


Thanks also to everyone else that following along and onto another day at Nsolo:


It was time to get our walking boots on again this morning and as is the norm, there aren’t as many photo opportunities when on foot but Zebra’s obliged







and this Reedbuck joined last nights Grysbok as “firsts” for us 






We were “sleeping out” tonight as we walked between Nsolo and Luwi camps – although at ~7km it’s an easy enough walk without needing to break it half way and just before Brunch, Prince arrived back in camp having guided a walk down from Luwi armed with a dung ball and Dung Beetle exoskeleton that they’d found en-route – when one of our fellow guests commented on how light the desiccated Dung Beetle was, his straight faced reply was “Oh, it’s much heavier when it’s got it’s batteries in” ;)



I don’t know if Gloria though we needed feeding up before our “sleep-out” adventure but Nsolo’s afternoon cake offering was quite delicious!



and suitably “booted” we’re set to go



Do you like the scarf?

After a couple of diversions to avoid some Buffalo & Elephant and pausing for an obliging Bushbuck,



We arrived at the “Sleep-out”





The “sleep-out” is quite a pricey option but that is, to a certain extent, understandable as they keep your chalet back at camp available in case you “bottle-out”, they need to set-up & dismantle and in addition to your guide you also have a ranger and a cook.  It’s a great experience, sitting watching the sun go down, enjoying an excellent “brai” dinner and chatting to Prince about his “life outside”, his family and his hopes for the future before settling down inside your “glorified cake cover” under the moon & stars and listening to the “sounds of Africa”.



Dawn breaks over the sleep-out





And after a minor “elephant crossing” delay,








we were soon at Luwi – a bit too soon though as no-one had told Luwi we were “sleeping –out” so they weren’t expecting us for another couple of hours! Becky soon had everything in place though.





The chalets at Luwi are similar to those in Nsolo in many ways eg the outside bathroom but subtly different in that the front of the chalet is open during the day and closed up by a pair of wicker/reed “doors” overnight.  All very comfortable though











Laurence was to be our guide at Luwi and we were pleased to discover that one of our fellow passengers on the flight from Lusaka to Mfue had been reunited with her luggage the following day.

Our afternoon game drive was a bit “mammal light” but as always there were plenty of birds to keep the camera shutter excercised
















Mozambique Nightjar


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Great start to your trip @AfricIan 2 wild dog sightings so early on is enough to have made it a very successful safari.

Looking forward to what comes next!

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Sorry to be a late comer to your report, but the wife and I were talking about Zambia as an option, the report has influenced us, more so that we may be able to fly Emirates  from Birmingham. Looking forward to the next installment.

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Thanks @mopsy & @CDL111 and to everyone else for following (& liking:)).  


Yes mopsy, seeing dogs whilst we were walking was something we hadn't anticipated and we had many other great encounters.

I can thoroughly recommend Zambia CDL111, many options - do Emirates operate from Birmingham using an A380?  It may look like a flying camel but it's wonderfully spacious, smooth & quiet.


A patrolling Brown Snake Eagle (I think) started us off this morning 





before we spotted this fellow keeping a close eye out from his vantage point

















Other than the odd fleeting glance at us, his attention was firmly across the river bed







It was clear that he’d never be able to sneak up on the baboons once they'd crossed the river bed so once the baboons had disappeared into the trees he followed them across


and a tawny eagle (again, I think) heralded brunch.



The afternoon yielded what I think is a Senegal Coucal but the cream/yellow beak makes me doubt myself – has anybody got any other suggestions?





socks pulled up!

before our path took us through some quite high grass just as a herd of buffalo crossed the track so it was quite a comedy moment as first one



then two 


poked their heads out & turned to look at us before we ended our drive with a stunning Spotted Eagle Owl





A surprise awaited us back at camp where, as we were the only guests that night, we had a private dinner on our deck 





Happiness is a bottle of wine (just the one, not all three that you can see in the photo!), a very nice meal and a glass of white port to finish – we slept well that night!

Next morning saw us moving down to Kakuli so we decided to walk back to Nsolo (~7km) then ride the 14km to Kakuli.









Southern Ground Hornbill



Bateleur Eagle


Chalets at Kakuli have very recently been renovated – essentially from the ground up and the “facilities” are all inside (but there is also an outside shower).  The front of the chalet is closed up at night by rolling down a canvas “wall”.  Once again, solar electrics & solar running hot water so very comfortable.









View from our deck over the Luangwa river



Our afternoon game drive to follow…


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Very good photographs, especially those taken at night.

Emirates from Birmingham is an Airbus A388, could always use Heathrow , an additional 40 minutes at the right time of day. 

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Excellent photos - great sighting of the dogs and that is a beautiful leopard!. Interesting to see the camps as well - they look great

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I am catching up on this excellent TR @AfricIan.


The photo in post #14 of the Lion Cub walking straight at you is choice!


In terms of the Coucal in post #19 - neither my Sasol app (birds of southern Africa) not my E. Africa Birds App mention bill color in juvenile Coucals.   Bummer.


But I did some googling and found this post (with photos) on Birdforum.net saying that both Senegal and Coppery-tailed Coucal immatures have pale horn-colored bills.



Those two Coucals are tricky to distinguish, especially as immatures.  So habitat might be a clue - and based on where you saw it, Senegal Coucal seems more likely to me.  They don't require as large an area of marshy habitat as Cooper-tailed. 

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Thanks @TonyQ, I know my photos don't compare with those of many of the contributers here but I'm pretty pleased with how at least some of them have turned out.  I can't take any credit for the ones around camp though, that's Vicky's department!


I'm so pleased you agree with me @offshorebirder, everything pointed towards Senegal Coucal apart from the bill colouration so many thanks for finding something to convince me I'm not deluding myself, my copy of Newmans makes no mention of bill colouration in immatures.  


Philimon is “top man” at Kakuli and was our guide as progress on our afternoon game drive was slowed by a large herd of buffalo





before – oh how tedious, another pack of dogs (;))



This was a bigger pack than we’d seen at Nsolo, numbering 20 to 25 and although they were resting when we found them we hoped they might get a bit more active as the day faded (unlike Nsolo where they were clearly not going anywhere soon!)







and sure enough we were soon treated to a show of greetings & bonding







but although all the dogs were “up & about”, no-one seemed prepared to make a decision on what to do next as they wandered about somewhat aimlessly, then a couple would start trotting off in one direction, stop & wander back, only for another to trot off in a different direction & stop







This continued for quite a while so we gave up & went for an after-sundown sundowner

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Next morning, one of the other guests was leaving and wanted a “last walk” so we accompanied her for a short stroll 



before rendezvousing with Philimon in the Landy - to be informed we’d missed seeing a Honey Badger (:angry::angry:)



then Philimon spotted two unlikely “tree mates”




The White-headed Vulture is easy, the raptor less so but I think it’s a juvenile Bateleur and they’d got their eyes on something.  As we got a little closer a leopard jumped down from the tree it was in & positioned himself in the bushes



but it was clear he wasn’t overly pleased to see us



We could see a large waterbuck carcase at the base of the tree he’d jumped down from and there were drag marks coming from the bushes but even though this was a big male leopard, Philimon thought it unlikely that he would have tackled such a large animal.  He was making his displeasure at out presence very clear so we backed off & left him to it, thinking we’d return in the afternoon to check up on him. 

On the way back to camp we paused for a tower of giraffe and the male was certainly finding one of the females very attractive – but she didn’t seem that interested!











Back at camp we’d got a new door-keeper and fly catcher 





There’s a nice canvas map showing all the Norman Carr camps/lodges in South Luangwa and the walking distance/time between them



and there was a lot of vulture activity on the other side of the river



Some of the vultures came & settled in front of our chalet 



as did a White-fronted Bee Eater



There had been some lion activity just behind the waterhole in front of camp in the early part of the afternoon so we spent the first ½hr of our afternoon drive within ~50m of camp as we unsuccessfully tried to locate the cats before heading off to where we’d left the leopard in the morning but about half way there our progress was halted











So it was dark when we reached the leopard site, to find that something had changed







Another somewhat surreal  moment ensued as a vehicle from another camp pulled in whilst the lion was feeding and although I didn’t hear what the guests said to their guide, his reply of “That, is a Lion!” was absolutely clear although I did have to ask Vicky “Did I hear that correctly?”, receiving an equally amazed “Yes, I think so!” in response.  And here’s me thinking anybody & everybody can recognise a lion at 100 yards, never mind 10-15 ft!!

Just about then, a solitary hyena turned up and was swiftly sent packing by the lioness so, putting our vehicle between him & the lion, he proceeded to call in reinforcements.  


Now I know hyena calls can travel a long way but the volume of this call, only ~10ft from my ear was something else and it wasn’t very long before some of his mates turned up.  Or perhaps they weren’t all his mates as once the number of hyena reached 5, the lioness decided a bit of discretion was called for and she left, leaving the coast clear for the hyena to dive in but this is when it turned even more interesting as only 4 were able to get to the carcase, the 5th being repeatedly chased off.  Philimon reasoned that 4 were from one clan & the 5th from a different one but whatever the reason the 4 were determined the 5th wasn’t going to share “their” food and despite calling and “alarming” he couldn’t get in until finally he saw half a chance, dived it, grabbed a leg & bolted before the other 4 could do some real damage to him.



It was a fascinating encounter and a fitting end to our last day in South Luangwa (& in the bush) as we were leaving next morning to make our way back to Lusaka & on to Livingstone for the Victoria Falls.

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Have to agree with @offshorebirder on the Senegal Coucal being a juvenile, found a good photograph www.pbase.com/ingotkfr/birds_of_africa

Bid pack of dogs.


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