Jump to content

Chapter one: South Luangwa


Recommended Posts

To wrap up this section of the park.....It was hot.  We slept on top of the covers at night and during our break mid-day stayed in the tent wearing only our underwear.  The tsetses took good advantage of my hubby.  At both camps the scheduled wake up time is six.  We asked for 5:30 and that was fine.  Probably because we were alone in both camps for several nights we had candle lit dinners at home, just us.  At Kuyenda it was outside in front of our hut. And, at Chamilandu it was on our deck.  Both evenings were VERY nice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the big cats had a good feast then!


amazing that the warthog survived that big injury to its snout! it's incredible to see how hardy these animals are. 


Looking forward to Tafika - one of our favourite camps. 


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lion collage in the dark. A bit spooky.  What a mighty itinerary.  I'll be zeroing in on your Musekese part.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great report and photos so far - really like the leopard photos and the lions at night.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Next camp...Tafika.  We leave camp early to get to the crossing spot by 10:30.  We are on the main road just before the Katete bridge and there is a vehicle parked in the distance to the right.  It is worth investigating and we head over there.  It is Ginger and Garlic with eight females and two young.  There are impala in the area and the females are hunting.  We could not stay and when we left the area, there were twelve vehicles.  After we turned off of the main road we had to stop for a herd of buffalo.  When we got to crossing point, a canoe came to get us and take us across the river.







Link to comment
Share on other sites

We have the Honeymoon Suite at Tafika.  It is nice.  Breakfast is around a fire overlooking the river.  It is a five o'clock wake up.  And, it is the only camp that cools the red wine!  





Link to comment
Share on other sites

Our first sighting on the afternoon drive is a group of Ground Hornbills just out of camp.  We go to the park entrance for all of the game drives.  But, we always see bushbucks and various birds on the way.  In the park in the middle of the road...DOGS!  There are five of them and they are the only ones we see on this trip.  They get up, take off and find a small group of puku.  They chase them down to the river.  Then it's up the river bank through a small herd of elephants.  We are in hot pursuit.  When we get back up on top, our driver does not wait quite long enough and cuts in front of a female elephant.  She is NOT happy with us and starts to chase us.  Hubby asks if the driver can go any faster and he says that he is going as fast as he can.  She finally stops.  The dogs were not successful but it was exciting to follow the hunt.  On the way home we see genets, a bushy-tailed mongoose, a Scops Owl and not far from camp a leopard walking up the road.  Not a bad first night!








Link to comment
Share on other sites

The next morning at the river:  hippos, Carmine Bee-eaters and elephants coming and going to drink.









Link to comment
Share on other sites

On the way back to camp we spot a vulture in the sky.  There is a dead puku on the ground surrounded by one Marabou Stork, two Lappet-faced and many White-backed Vultures.  They are vicious.





Link to comment
Share on other sites

To finish the day... on the afternoon drive Bryan spotted a herd of buffalo.  We were blocking their route but watched to see what specific direction they would take to the river.  Then, we drove to the river spotting a two year old female leopard on the way.  We parked overlooking the river and had sundowners in the vehicle and waited.  The herd numbers about 800.   Heading home we see the young leopard again.  Further on two hyenas are under a tree and a leopard with an impala is up in the tree.  Bush baby in another tree and home.  Another great evening!











Link to comment
Share on other sites

I hope this is not too boring:rolleyes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not boring at all @marg, thoroughly enjoying it actually!


Looking forward to the rest!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Boring? oh yea, the dogs fetched a yawn from me,  the leopard lulled me to sleep and the atmospheric mood of the buffaloes made me turn on the TV. 


you got to be kidding. wow - Dogs! so lucky. and quite a good showing of leopards too. and more lions. Ginger and Garlic look stunning. love those gorgeous photos of the buffaloes by the river. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Again this brings up the most pleasant memories of one of my favorite safari destinations. I did see Garlic and Ginger as well.  I've seen wild dogs in so many places but the most beautifully marked I've ever seen were in South Luangwa. As much as I'd love to return to South Luangwa, I am even more eager to make another trip to Kafue in any given October combined with Liuwa Plains and Kasanka, 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@marg, no trip report can ever be boring or were you referring to your picture in post #7? The quantity of big cats and to see the dogs, yippee. Just a few buffalo and carmine bee eaters. NO NO NO not boring.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



Shortly after going through the park gate we stop to watch vervet monkeys in a fig tree. When we get to the tree where the leopard had her kill, we find a Tawney Eagle.   White fronted Bee-eater. Then another Tawney Eagle poking into the hole in a tree.  A Verraux's Giant Eagle-owl and a Grey Hornbill.  It has been a bird-filled morning.











Link to comment
Share on other sites

@marg good to see recent photos of Ginger and Garlic. I particularly liked your photos of the lionesses and cubs at the waterhole and the baby ele who looks as those its stuck in knee-deep mud. Those lions made short work of the buffalo, and how amazing to see such a large group of Ground Hornbills in one gathering.


Lovely Carmine Bee-eater photos, sucha beautiful bird.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The buffalo at dusk are a beautiful and very unboring sight.  Ground Hornbill are a favorite.  Happy to see some youngsters to carry on the lineage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the second raptor at the branch looks very much like a juvenile gymnogene/African Harrier Hawk, given the shape of the slim head. I find them beautiful particularly when they become adults. Hopefully, others like @Galago or @Bush dog can comfirm/clarify the ID. 

great flight shots @marg ! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Kitsafari...you are correct.  I was referring to my journal and had African Harrier Hawk listed.  Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@marg, do like the African Harrier Hawk and Hornbill in flight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mid day I would sit on our little porch and wait for visitors.  Bushbucks were often in camp.  But, the fun part was the little bird bath in front of our porch.  It is a puddle where the sprinkler attaches.  Some days I hated to leave for tea time.  Black-capped Bulbul, Lilian's Lovebird, Green-winged Pytilia, Blue Waxbill and assorted Yellow Weavers.









Link to comment
Share on other sites

As we approached the river we always saw a Grey Heron at the top of dead tree and a Fish Eagle or two.  We saw big groups elephants crossing the river or elephants going to drink.   And, what a pleasure it was to watch them.









Link to comment
Share on other sites

We did see other animals in addition to leopards and elephants...kudu, lions and puku.





Link to comment
Share on other sites

and more small birds...Brown-hooded Kingfisher, Pied Kingfisher, Lilac-breaster Roller and Red-billed Oxpecker.







Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Create New...

Important Information

Safaritalk uses cookies to ensure you get the best experience on our website. By using Safaritalk you agree to our use of cookies. If you wish to refuse the setting of cookies you can change settings on your browser to clear and block cookies. However, by doing so, Safaritalk may not work properly and you may not be able to access all areas. If you are happy to accept cookies and haven't adjusted browser settings to refuse cookies, Safaritalk will issue cookies when you log on to our site. Please also take a moment to read the Terms and Conditions and Privacy Policy: Terms of Use l Privacy Policy