Extraordinary landscapes, rock formations and wild flowers

[Ritsgaai]

During the last 10 days of August, we did a trip with good friends to the beautiful, arid regions of the Northern and Western Cape and came back with a bag full of photos and memories that warm our hearts.

 

 

Goegap Nature Reserve Campsite

 

It is always a bit of a gamble to determine the best time to visit the flowering season for these regions, as it is difficult to predict rain and the overall climate.

 

On a very cold Saturday morning in July, while sitting in a coffee shop with our friends, we made an impromptu decision - "lets go and see the flowers"! As the Western Cape had good winter rains this year, our expectations were high and we decided to go for the last week in August. Booked accommodation was not a problem, as we are both geared for camping. Three days into the trip, a massive cold front with gale force winds and rain, hit the area and we were grateful to find different lodging at the last minute.

 

The Itinerary were:

2 x nights - Springbok: Goegap Nature Reserve

1 x night - Groenriviermond

1 x night - Strandfontein

3 x nights - Nieuwoudtville

3 x nights - Cedarberg

 

So, if you enjoy landscapes and wild flowers, I will share some photos with you.

 

 

Stunning beauty between Pofadder and Springbok

 

 

Quiver trees in Goegap Nature Reserve

 

[Ritsgaai]

Early morning looking down onto the campsite at Goegap

 

 

 

 

A few of the flowers and quiver trees seen in the succulent garden at Goegap Nature Reserve

 

 

 

Scenery and flowers on the 4x4 route inside Goegap Nature Reserve

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ritsgaai]

Nababeep is a small copper-mining town in Namaqualand, situated 19 km north-west of Springbok. The name combines two Nama words, nama, meaning 'hump of an animal' and bib, meaning 'small spring'.

Mining began in the 1850's and from 1876 ore was taken by train to Port Nolloth for export. The mine closed during the copper slump of 1919, but reopened in 1937.  It is home to the Okiep Copper Company and the region's largest copper-mining town.

 

 

We found the area in and around town delightful

[Ritsgaai]

Instead of staying on the N7 tarred road from Springbok to Garies, we took a left turn north of Kamieskroon to follow the very scenic gravel road via Leliefontein. 

 

Leliefontein is a small settlement deep in the Kamiesberg Mountains of Namaqualand, approximately 30 km south-east of Kamieskroon. A mission was established in 1816 by Reverend Barnabas Shaw on a farm awarded to the Namaqua people by the Dutch governor, Rijk Tulbagh. Leliefontein is probably named after the many white lilies found in the area. The hills around Leliefontein are a sight to behold and feels like a secret hideaway when discovered.

 

 

Along the route are a few active farms with beautiful old farmsteads, some of them running small restaurants during the flower season.

 

 

This very scenic last couple of kilometers gives the impression of isolation and being cut of from civilization. 

 

[Ritsgaai]

Our hopes - to overnight next to the Atlantic Ocean somewhere south of Groenriviermond on the West Coast - died with a strong, cold front hitting the region the previous night. A cold wind was blowing, but rain was only expected late afternoon. So we decided to still travel the sandy 2-spoor coastal road to take us all the way to Strandfontein where we managed to book a house for the night.

 

West Coast 2-spoor track

 

 

Groenriviermond - previous afternoon

 

 

Our friends got stuck in the deep sand with their caravan in tow, luckily only once.

 

 

Some shipwreck junk serves as a nesting place

 

 

 

Seasoned, brave campers 

 

 

Another beautiful area of isolation - we will have to go back to camp on the beach one day! 

[Atravelynn]

The last 10 days of Aug seemed to be peak flower time.  Such brilliant colors, then throw in a splash of flamingos...

[xelas]

Beautiful vistas, so many colours. Perfect timing for your trip report also, give us something to think about for 2020. Logistic question: is a Hilux best option for those roads, even if we would not be camping?

[Peter Connan]

Beautiful photos @Ritsgaai

 

@xelas, definitely no Avanza on these roads! These roads are probably similar to the sand we found along the border of the CKGR last year.

Proper 4x4 country!

[Ritsgaai]

@Atravelynn, we were grateful for the show we got. We were for instance too late for the flowers of the Namaqua National Park as the flowering season starts first in the northern region. Also there was a strong easterly wind a week or two before we arrived. The warm wind destroyed the last flowers around Springbok and Skilpad regions. I guess the mountains protected the flowers from the damaging wind on the Leliefontein route. 

 

During our planning, our main focus was the Nieuwoudtville region (still to be reported on). Nieuwoudtville is situated at a much higher altitude on the Bokkeveld Escarpment and is world famous for an astounding diversity of flowers. The flowers started to bloom much later because of colder weather that persists longer. 

 

The flamingos were a lovely surprise on a grey, cold and windy morning. 

[Ritsgaai]

Thank you @xelas and @Peter Connan.

 

@xelas, the vehicle you choose depends mainly on what and where you want to go. Most people drive the main flower routes in sedan cars and 2x4 bakkies/vans. (I am sure you are familiar with the term  'bakkie', as you have already spend many hours with people like @Peter Connan and all your other South African friends.) 

 

To give you an idea, last year my mother turned 80. My sister and myself decided to take her on a road trip to see the flowers. We booked air tickets to Cape Town, rented a sedan car (Nissan something) and made the necessary reservations for all our lodging. This was all done long before it became apparent that there will be no or very little flowers because of the poor winter rainfall.   

 

Nevertheless, we still did the trip and had a ball of a time.  We visited the West Coast National Park, Clanwilliam, Loeriesfontein and Nieuwoudtville. We traversed quite a few gravel roads including the Botterkloof Pass from Nieuwoudtville to Clanwilliam. Luckily we never experienced any problems. 

 

Tourists do not often travel the sandy West Coast road, but you will definitely need a 4x4 should you want to do it. There are also many gravel and farm roads where a 4x4 will do so much better, like the Wildeperdehoek Pass, Gifberg Pass, Oorlogskloof, etc. From what I have read in some of your previous trip reports, I doubt it that you will want to stay on the paved roads only. 

 

@Peter Connan gave you some sound advise... get the 4x4. 

 

[xelas]

4 hours ago, Peter Connan said:

These roads are probably similar to the sand we found along the border of the CKGR last year.

 

Peter, how is the updated situation with your Patrol?

[xelas]

18 minutes ago, Ritsgaai said:

I doubt it that you will want to stay on the paved roads only. 

 

Am I that guy? After only a couple of visits to Africa, and only one real adventure under my belt?? Oh yeah, you bet I am! Only dilemma would be, a bakkie or a Patrol (since I want to keep my friendship with Peter ).

 

 

[Treepol]

@Ritsgaai thank you so much for posting this detailed report of your recent travels. I am planning to do a trip through the Western Cape in 2021 and I have the map out following your adventure.

 

Do you think a Fortuner would handle the loop from Kamieskroon to Leliefontein?  So looking forward to more of your adventure when you have time.

 

The trip to celebrate your mother's 80th sounds like a real blast and its great that you still had a ball even though the flower season was disappointing.

 

 

[Peter Connan]

6 hours ago, xelas said:

 

Am I that guy? After only a couple of visits to Africa, and only one real adventure under my belt?? Oh yeah, you bet I am! Only dilemma would be, a bakkie or a Patrol (since I want to keep my friendship with Peter ).

 

 

 @xelas, I don't want to foul up @Ritsgaai's trip report too much,but you needn't worry too much as NOBODY rents out Patrols.

 

@Treepol, most people consider the Fortuner a better 4x4 than the Hilux. Driven carefully and with intelligent tire pressure management, it should have no problems.

 

Edited November 13, 2018 by Peter Connan

[Ritsgaai]

Thank you for your reply and interest in our trip, @Treepol. It must be very exciting to start planning your trip for this region.

 

On 11/13/2018 at 5:29 AM, Peter Connan said:

 

@Treepol, most people consider the Fortuner a better 4x4 than the Hilux. Driven carefully and with intelligent tire pressure management, it should have no problems.

 

I agree 100% with @Peter Connan.

 

The loop road from Kamieskroon to Leliefontein has a good gravel surface with a little bit of corrugations here and there. The last 15 kilometers after Karas has many (approximately 10 to 12) farm gates one passes through that needs opening and closing. 

[Ritsgaai]

We woke up to a miserable wet and cold morning with a gale force southwesterly. We were booked for camping in the Nieuwoudtville district for the next three nights. Weather predictions for Nieuwoudtville for the day and night were intermittent rain, with a strong wind throughout the day and  sub-zero temperatures for the coming night and the next morning. Once again we managed to book a cottage on a farm close to Nieuwoudtville at the last minute.

 

Our plans to spend the day exploring the flower route from Strandfontein to Nieuwoudtville via the towns of Lutzville, Vredendal and Vanrhynsdorp were deemed for failure because of the cold conditions. A few alternative options were put on the table, but when somebody mentioned having lunch at Isabella's in Lambert's Bay, there was no holding back. 

 

Strandfontein - a truly beautiful small coastal town

 

 

 

 

Doringbaai

 

 

 

 

Blue Cranes outside Lambert's Bay

 

 

 

Other seabirds in town.

 

 

 

We did not pay a visit to Bird Island Nature Reserve with the reasonable large Cape Gannet colony, as we had been there a couple of times in the past...but I suppose with calmer weather conditions, we would have. We were more eager to start the feast of the excellent seafood at Isabella's. 

 

 

Evidence of muddy road conditions 

 

 

 Small vessel in Lambert's Bay harbour with stormy sea in the background

 

 

We were told at the restaurant about a whale that beached about 2 to 3 kilometers away and decided to have a walk there.  Some exercise after the excellent meal at Isabella's was probably not a bad idea. 

 

My husband and I

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Run...run...RUN!!!

 

 

 

Time to head back

 

 

Road from Lambert's Bay towards Clanwilliam (R364)

 

 

Heading towards Van Rhyn's Pass (R27)

 

Van Rhyn's Pass is one of the ten major mountain passes originally constructed by the famous road engineer, Thomas Bain in 1880. From the foot of the Matsikama Mountain the 8 kilometer long pass takes one 595m up to Nieuwoudtville on the Bokkeveld escarpment into a totally different world - from a semi-desert landscape down below to an arid plateau with trees and grasslands.

 

The grand view from the top of Van Rhyn's Pass of the plain down below is nothing short of breathtaking.

 

 

 

It was bitterly cold (5 C) when we arrived at our cottage, named Cloudskraal late afternoon.

Edited November 16, 2018 by Ritsgaai

[xelas]

So this is how winter looks in South Africa?! @Ritsgaai, what for are those two vessels with long green pipes attached?? Cape Gannet colony? Definitive yes ... just not in such a stormy sea .

 

Barefoot and with a woolen hat and scarf ... very Zudafrikaaan .

 

Those scenic roads and lovely cottages, I do miss them  so much.

Edited November 16, 2018 by xelas

[Ritsgaai]

@xelas, see the edited version above with extra photos.

 

It is not necessary to have a boat transfer to Bird Island, as it is attached to the land with a concrete jetty. You will love it there... a must visit. 

 

The flower season is notorious for some very cold spells. One must come prepared!

 

 

[xelas]

3 minutes ago, Ritsgaai said:

The flower season is notorious for some very cold spells. One must come prepared!

 

Ah, no problem with bringing woolen hat and woolen scarf from Slovenia . And it can be bitterly cold also in Costa Rica ... if sleeping at 3000 m .

[Ritsgaai]

58 minutes ago, xelas said:

what for are those two vessels with long green pipes attached??

 

I made a phone call just now to Fryers Cove Winery to ask about the 2 dredge boats. They belong to a private company in the diamond industry.

 

For future reference - Fryers Cove Winery has a wine tasting room in Doringbaai. They have 4 hectares of vineyard between Strandfontein and Doringbaai from which they produce Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Shiraz wines. 

 

 

 

Quote

 

Barefoot and with a woolen hat and scarf ... very Zudafrikaaan .

 

I am sure you know the following saying -  "Africa is not for sissies" 

Both our friends got caught by incoming waves on the beach.  

 

 

Edited November 16, 2018 by Ritsgaai

[xelas]

1 hour ago, Ritsgaai said:

They belong to a private company in the diamond industry.

 

Thanks for clarification. Do they need a cleaner on those boats ?

 

As for "sissies", I can understand why. But it is such a fantastic country I just need to get out of my comfort zone (once a year if possible).

[Ritsgaai]

 

1 hour ago, xelas said:

 

Thanks for clarification. Do they need a cleaner on those boats ?

 

As for "sissies", I can understand why. But it is such a fantastic country I just need to get out of my comfort zone (once a year if possible).

 

Sounds like a good idea to help finance all the trips to Africa.  

Can we join you? 

[xelas]

1 hour ago, Ritsgaai said:

Can we join you? 

 

Any time! Can we join you?!

[Zim Girl]

@Ritsgaai  Thanks for the pictures of Lambert's Bay.  We will be visiting there next November, when I hope it will be a bit less cold and windy

[Ritsgaai]

18 hours ago, xelas said:

 

Any time! Can we join you?!

Absolutely.  You are always welcome.