South Luangwa & Lower Zambezi Trip Report June 2021

[linjudy]

Overall, I can’t imagine a better experience than the one we had. We are grateful to RPS, Shenton and Chiawa for giving us so many unforgettable moments, and to Megan at Expert Africa for arranging and re-arranging everything so many times.

 

It a word, the trip was epic, and we both feel that it was our best safari yet. There were hardly any guests which was great for us but very sad for the locals. We were the only guests at all 3 South Luangwa camps, and the first of the season at Nkwali and Nsefu. We had the full attention of the most senior guides: Kiki at Nkwali, Willy at Nsefu and Patrick at Mwamba. Not only were they great guides, but wonderful human beings and very interesting and funny conversationalist. Really fun dinners! Our only worry is that this experience will spoil us for future trips when things return to “normal”.

 

Both parks were really beautiful and remote. Lush and green with still a lot of wetland, abundant bird life and butterflies everywhere. We enjoyed the scenery almost as much as the animals. Our wildlife sightings were action packed, and we really enjoyed the wide range of activities available: walking, boating, fishing and canoeing. The night drives were extremely productive, as you’ll read in later installments . Weather was very comfortable, similar to Northern California where we live. Warm days (80’s) and chilly nights (50’s). Bug situation not bad; only a few tse tse flies.

 

As for covid, the local outbreak is very bad, especially in Eastern Province where South Luangwa is located. That said, we couldn't have felt safer while on safari. Everyone at the camps have had one shot of Astra Zeneca and scheduled for their 2nd in July. Everyone wore masks in camp. The Latitude 15 hotel in Lusaka was gorgeous and a safe haven on both ends of the safari, and arranged for very convenient COVID testing. One thing to note is that if you’re connecting in Addis Ababa, that airport is absolutely teeming with intra-Africa travelers, as was Lusaka airport while waiting for ADD flight. We doubled masked.

 

Here was our final itinerary:

 

Lusaka: 1 night at Latitude 15 before safari, and 2 nights after for Covid test.

 

In South Luangwa:

-       2 nights Nkwali

-       2 nights Nsefu

-       3 nights at Mwamba, including one night “star bed sleep out”

 

In Lower Zambezi:

-       3 nights at Chiawa

 

I am still organizing photos, but here is a preliminary link to some favorites: https://photos.app.goo.gl/RdTwpEZgq4sTPE8F6

 

Deciding to travel so far during the pandemic was daunting, and we had so many questions about testing, transit and entry protocol. We even considered postponing this trip again, especially as cases started to rise in Zambia. But now we are so happy that we went. It was truly the trip of a lifetime and magic to have had these two parks almost entirely to ourselves.

 

That said, COVID has had a devastating impact on the local tourism industry. It was heart breaking to hear that our guides, such accomplished men, had to take on subsistence farming to help feed their families. I hope this report will help persuade fully vaccinated travelers who don't have overly onerous government imposed restrictions to make the trip and support these camps.

 

Testing and transiting were my biggest worries. But armed with a negative COVID test and vaccination card, everything was actually very easy. We had no problems transiting in Europe or Ethiopia both ways, and going through the Zambia entry protocol took 15 minutes (which included getting the visa on arrival). Our internal Proflight trips were all uneventful, even though we were the only passengers on the Mfuwe-Jeki and Jeki-Lusaka segments.

 

Getting the test in Lusaka was also extremely easy. The PCR test costs $95, and for a small fee ($30 per person), someone from the clinic will come to the hotel to do the swab, and then drop off the result and official travel certificate the next day.

 

So, for anyone reading this who is considering a trip to Zambia, I’d say go for it if you have been fully vaccinated. The camps need our support, and you will have an amazing time.

Now, onward to the camp reports!

Edited July 5, 2021 by linjudy
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[linjudy]

Our first camp was Nkwali. If you don’t mind wading through lots of photos, here is a “play by play” of our experience: https://photos.app.goo.gl/b9JpL5u3NwAucf376

 

Nkwali was a beautiful camp by the river. We were the only guests and were graciously hosted and expertly guided by Kiki. The guiding in Zambia was the best we have ever experienced and Kiki immediately showed off his expertise. On the 2nd day, we saw a leopard with a kill in a tree, and another leopard during the night drive where he expertly positioned the vehicle multiple times for the best vantage point.

 

Not only was Kiki a great guide, but he was also a very humorous and interesting conversationalist. Over dinner he told us about the matrilineal tradition of his people, the Kunda, and some funny stories of his girls growing up with their cousins. We exchanged travel stories – us with other trips in Africa, and he with trips to the US. The first place he visited in the US was Minneapolis in February! Believe it or not, he also spent time in Menlo Park California, which happens to be where I grew up. What a small world!

 

During our stay we saw many elephants, giraffes, zebras, hippos, hyenas, and as a first for us, lone Cookson wildebeest. One morning, we noticed an enormous amount of buffalo poo, and after searching for some time, found a big herd.

 

There were very few people in this part of the park. We were the only guests at Nkwali. At the first leopard sighting there were 2 other vehicles, but I think we saw only one other vehicle the rest of the time. Kiki joked that everyone gets more excited seeing people than animals.

 

We thoroughly enjoyed our stay at Nkwali. Our room was beautiful and comfortable, with a view of the river and hippo chorus serenading us every night. Food was fresh and delicious. The camp has a very convenient boat that can cross the river into the park without having to drive to the main gate bridge. South Luangwa park in June was stunningly beautiful – lush and green with plenty of wetlands, beautiful birds and butterflies, and teeming with wildlife. What a great start to the trip!

 

PS: Adding a favorite animal, landscape, and bird photo to each post

 

Edited July 5, 2021 by linjudy
adding some photos

[linjudy]

We absolutely loved our time at Nsefu and the only regret was we couldn’t stay longer. Here is the play-by-play of our too-short 2 days: https://photos.app.goo.gl/9YFzpWsGW8E3F1sT7

 

We transferred by canoe from Nkwali, and were met by Willy, who was both camp manager and expert guide. Great for us but sad for the camp, we were the only guests in camp and the first of the season

 

Almost immediately upon arriving we saw a pack of wild dogs near the canoe crossing point. The alpha female is very pregnant and the pack is preparing to den. The camp staff discovered them while working on the road a few days before we arrived. Willy thinks COVID has changed their behavior with no tourists, otherwise, they would not choose a den so close to the road. It was sobering to think that we were the first people to drive on these roads since 2019. However, this is great news for guests! If you are interested in seeing wild dogs, you would be virtually guaranteed sightings near Nsefu or Tena Tena this season!

 

Nsefu is the oldest safari camp in Zambia and located on a beautiful stretch of the South Luangwa river. Our “rondavel” room was very comfy with a really nice outdoor bathroom (and they even supplied hair conditioner!). Meals were all taken outside by the river. We thought the food was the best we had on this trip – fresh, healthy and delicious. I wish they would bottle their mango chutney and sell it!

 

Like our other RPS guide Kiki at Nkwali, Willy was also a really fun person. We went for a walking safari one morning around a beautiful lagoon, and we had a younger guide, John, who just passed his walking exam come with us to fulfill his practicum hours. Willy would quiz him on all sorts of things and their exchange was really funny. All 3 of our South Luangwa guides are examiners, but I think Willy was the most intimidating. I would not want to be quizzed by him.

 

We have never been the only guests in camp on our previous safaris. I was a bit worried as we’ve generally enjoyed the company of other guests and have even made some lasting friendships. But the concerns were unfounded because Willy and John were great company and told us funny and astounding stories.

 

We had some amazing sightings at Nsefu. We saw the dogs hunt one morning. One member of the pack had a slight injury that caused him to limp, which was good for us as we saw the other dogs communicate and wait for the injured member. South Luangwa was teeming with leopards. I think we saw at least one every day, and on one day, we saw 5 unique ones, including a small cub. There was also an adrenaline filled encounter when we were parked on the road waiting for an elephant to pass, and he inexplicably decided to charge the truck. This was caught on video and you can see the entire frame filled by the elephant’s face. Even Willy said he was a little scared. That evening the stories were especially inspired .

 

We have not done many evening game drives before, but did one every night on this trip. These night drives should not be missed as all of ours were action packed: leopards, hyenas, genets, civets were common sightings nearly every evening. But I think the most impressive was at Nsefu when our spotter saw a chameleon. Even Willy took a while to see it with the naked eye.

 

On our last morning, Willy took us to a huge colony of yellow billed storks nesting nearby. It was very close to Nsefu but with the water still high, we had to go around by the main road. It was an amazing sight to see the storks fishing, feeding their young, and fighting over the fish with eagles and pelicans. We really appreciated the extra effort Willy took to show us the colony.

 

Again, our only regret was not being able to stay longer. We were supposed to do the walking and bush camp experience between Nsefu and Tena Tena, but that was cancelled this June. However, that just means that we will have to come back to Nsefu.

 

PS: Adding a favorite animal, landscape and bird photo

 

Edited July 6, 2021 by linjudy

[offshorebirder]

1 hour ago, linjudy said:

The PCR test costs $95, and for a small fee ($30 per person), someone from the clinic will come to the hotel to do the swab, and then drop off the result and official travel certificate the next day.

 

@linjudy - was it the CIDRZ lab that did the test and met you at your hotel + dropped off the results?   I made an appointment to go by their clinic but would much rather have them visit me at the hotel.

 

* Thanks for this trip report - it's good to encourage people to go if they can.

 

Some excellent photos on your Google Photo page by the way.

 

 

[Toxic]

Beautiful photos and I enjoyed reading what you've shared so far! The photos you've managed to take of the baby cubs (both leopard and lion) and the baby buffalo, hippo and elephant have me smiling ear to ear! 

[linjudy]

@offshorebirder, yes, I believe it was the CIDRZ clinic. Our hotel (Latitude 15) called them once we arrived, and they came about an hour later and did the test in our room. Like you we were originally going to go to the clinic, but given the severity of the outbreak, thought it was well worth the $30 to have someone come to the hotel

Edited July 4, 2021 by linjudy

[linjudy]

Here is the Mwamba installment, with even more photos in the play-by-play

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/PSoqvdNvm1ZCu3iY7

 

Mwamba was an authentic Zambian “reed-chalet” style bush camp with only 4 rooms, where we spent 3 glorious days and loved every minute. Our “room” was nestled under a huge strangle fig tree with a big outdoor bathroom and a bucket shower under another big tree. We can see baboons and impalas from our bed. Everything was “Swiss Family Robinson” and utterly charming.

 

We transferred by canoe from Nsefu, and were met by Patrick on the other side of the river. Again, we were the only guests – great for us but sad for the camp. Our first morning and afternoon drives were pretty quiet. The area around camp was very beautiful with lots of birds and we saw beautiful flocks of love birds and our one and the only carmine bee eater of the trip. However, the night drive was action packed and we saw 2 leopards (our 4th and 5th of the day), genet, civet, and a scope owl.

 

The camp was hosted by the executive chef and we were joined by the host from Kaingo for tea and dinner where we had wonderful conversations. The staff at the camp seemed genuinely fond of each other and the atmosphere was fun and informal. Patrick had some very funny as well as harrowing stories, including one about being surrounded by lions during a truck breakdown. We also talked about the current COVID outbreak and the impact the pandemic has had on the tourism industry. All three of our South Luangwa guides trained together and know each other. They all took up farming last year. It breaks my heart to hear that such accomplished men had to take up subsistence farming to feed their families.

 

Next morning started out quiet again as Patrick showed us a beautiful ebony forest nearby. The place felt like a cathedral. The forest gets flooded during the rainy season and they offer canoe trips which must be gorgeous. We spent quite a bit of time watching a big flock of yellow bill storks near a pond. Then Patrick said, let’s go check out a gully where one of the neighborhood leopards likes to hang out. Before he could finish his sentence, there was the leopard, who began stalking a couple of impalas. We watched for a long time but the impalas were always just out of reach.

 

That afternoon / evening we saw beautiful zebras, elephants, and yet another leopard. This was the night for our special “star bed sleep-out”, and it was beyond amazing. The “star bed” is a tree house under mosquito net and the most romantic “room” I have ever seen. Catherine and Johan cooked a delicious meal for us over the camp fire which we ate under a full moon. After dinner, we were left alone to sleep under the moonlit sky with the hyenas calling all night.

 

Next morning Patrick came by, started a fire, and made coffee and breakfast. We set out for walking safari from the camp. We walked at every camp and this one was my favorite. We visited a series of waterholes, approached a big herd of buffaloes on foot, and saw 30+ Cookson wildebeests. These were new animals for us. They were gray and very handsome animals when compared with the regular gnus.

 

Soon it was time for our last full game drive of South Luangwa. Even though we had seen scores of leopards, we had not seen a single lion after 7 days. I also had a running joke with all the spotters that evening drives were “porcupine time”, knowing chances of seeing one is low. I would say “it’s porcupine time!”, and they would say “elephant shrew” 😀

 

On this evening, we came to a fork in the road, and Patrick said his instincts told him to go one way. Shortly after that we saw another truck, which was only the second truck we saw for the entire 3 days. They had seen lions, so we followed their direction and soon found 2 moms and 3 large-ish cubs feeding on a zebra. We got quite close, and it was a bit disturbing to be “surrounded” by lions after dark just like in Patrick’s story. We’ve been close to lions, but never so many and so close while dark. I think it’s scary because you can’t see them all. I kept imagining one creeping up on me.

 

Feeling happy that we finally saw some lions, we started heading home. Suddenly, Patrick shouted “Porcupine!”, and sure enough there was one on the road right in front of our truck. Our first porcupine ever! Moments later a second one ran across the road. It was beyond believe that we saw lions AND two porcupines on our very last game drive!

 

This was our 4th safari, and every trip had been the “best” in its own way. But no place has filled my heart like South Luangwa. The beauty of the land was stunning and animal sightings were exciting, but I think it was the guides that made our experience so special. It was a privilege to spend time with these soulful, smart and funny men. We can’t wait to go back again.

Edited July 5, 2021 by linjudy

[Paul B]

@linjudyThanks for sharing, you got some great photos! We stayed at Mwamba back in 2012 and was guided by Patrick. Mwamba is one of my favorite camps in all of Africa, a real bush camp, super comfy but not too luxurious. Like you, we were the only guests at the time.

 

We are off to Botswana the end of next week, just curious, where did you get your Covid test and how long did it take to get your results? Hoping to not get too close to the 72 hrs. cut-off. We are just north of you in Windsor (next town north of Santa Rosa).

[linjudy]

@Paul B, thanks, glad you enjoyed the photos! So glad to hear you're off to Bots! We went there in 2005 for our first Africa trip ever.

 

We got our COVID test at one of the free Santa Clara county sites, which happens to be our local hospital (El Camino in Mountain View). The results came back in roughly 12 hours. Our flight was a Wed at 2PM, and we got tested on Mon 8AM. By Mon 9PM, we had gotten the result. I think 48 hour turn around is a pretty safe bet these days.

[mtanenbaum]

Love your pictures! I am so jealous of your trip (LOL)...Hope we will be going to Kenya in September 2022 for our Sheldrick elephant trip that was supposed to be in February 2021....

[linjudy]

Here is the last 😢 installment of Chiawa / Lower Zambezi. Link to photo diary here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/jnsncyCW6M1mhiFw8

 

Chiawa was a large and very luxurious camp right on the Zambezi. We had chosen it for the variety of activities, and it definitely delivered on that Every day at Chiawa was like a movie with a story.

 

Even as we were landing at the Jeki airstrip, there were elephants on the runway, and as soon as we got on the jeep, we saw a big breeding herd wallowing in mud. The area was filled with elephants and hippos and we ended up spending quite a bit of time dodging both.

 

We arrived by boat and our room was huge and gorgeous with multiple sitting areas, 2 showers (one indoor and one outdoor) and a big bath tub. We can see animals right from our room, including some elephants who detained us in our room for a little while before lunch. Chiawa was a more formal camp than our usual choices. Meals were generally not communal (not sure if this is due to COVID) and both lunch and dinner were coursed out. That said, the camp served meals in all sorts of delightful settings, each a little happy surprise.

 

Our guide was Chris, another 20+ year veteran, who was also the camp activities director (?). He came by at lunch to go over all the activity options. Since we only had 3 days and wanted to do everything, we opted to go for a boat cruise, do some finishing and a night drive back to camp on our first afternoon.

 

Having never fished before, we were extremely inept. The fishing soon turned into drinking while we enjoyed the scenery. After the sundowner it was time for our night drive when the first action movie occurred.

 

We started hearing baboon alarm calls and Chris soon spotted a leopard. There were also impala alarm calls in front of us, and another jeep said there was another leopard a short distance away. We decided to keep following “our” leopard until some hyenas came along and the leopard ran away. While we were parked trying to figure out what to do, a big male impala sprinted out of a bush, with hyenas at its heel, and smacked into the side of our truck. We were so lucky that the truck had doors, or our spotter Fraser would have been toast!

 

Minutes later the hyenas succeeded in killing the poor impala, and started calling other members of the clan, and we saw 10 hyenas feeding. It was a bit like watching wild dogs interact with all the behavioral rituals, for example, how the submissive males (much smaller than the females) had to screech and beg for food. It was the first time we’ve seen hyena pack feeding like this. Super interesting.

 

Next day we decided go canoeing followed by a night drive. Drifting along the Zambezi in a canoe was serene unless we had to dodge hippos – then it was a bit nerve wracking. However, Chris and Fraser were very skilled canoers and kept us safe. As we neared the end of the channel, we started hearing baboon alarm calls again, and Chris thought there was a leopard in a tree, but it turned out to be a young male lion with an impala kill. He was harassed by elephants and we got a brief glimpse of him from the water as he ran away. At the end of our canoe trip, we hopped in our waiting vehicle and soon found him hiding. Unlike South Luangwa, there were guests at Chiawa and other camps, and this was our first multiple-vehicle sighting since the first day. Since we couldn’t really see the lion, we decided to go have our sundowner instead.

 

When we returned, the lion had moved into the open. We watched him for a while and Chris said we should go check out the stomach of the impala to see if it attracts other animals. For examples, crocodiles often enjoy this particular delicacy. Just as he finished his sentence, we saw a huge crocodile with the stomach in its jaws right in front of our jeep, crossed the road, and scurried into the bushes. 5 seconds earlier or later we wouldn’t have seen it. Again, it was like a movie, and I have pictures to prove that this really happened!

 

On the way back to camp, we saw a bunch of lights, and Chris said they were illegal campers. But instead, we were surprised with a barbeque dinner under the stars. We have always loved looking at the southern sky and the Milky Way, so the dinner was extra special.

 

On our third day, we had another mini-documentary movie. Again, we saw another vehicle and were pointed to a lioness with 3 very small cubs – maybe only 2-3 weeks ago. We found them walking with Mom in the open. All three cubs were struggling, but one fell behind and couldn’t keep up. He started mewling but the Mom just kept going and left him behind. It was really pitiful as it couldn’t possibly survive on its own. We followed the Mom and the 2 cubs for quite some time off road and found a sister lioness with a slightly older cub next to waterbuck kill. The first Mom had been leading the 2 cubs to food and safety. As soon as she dropped off the two cubs, she headed right back out, presumably to find the other cub. It’s tough being a mother of three!

 

This story did have a happy ending: when we went back in the afternoon, all cubs were accounted for. That night, the camp surprised us again with a private dinner on the river, just us. We would radio and the staff would bring our next course. It was lovely to have dinner by ourselves on the last night of our trip.

 

Since our flight doesn’t leave until early afternoon, we were able to go on another game drive in the morning and watched the cubs some more. On our way back, the camp radioed that they saw a big male lion while working on the road. They stayed with the lion so we can find it easily, and gave us the first and only male lion sighting of our trip. This was typical of “above and beyond” service we received at Chiawa. Everything was meticulously arranged to maximize guest enjoyment. Truly a first-rate operation!

Edited July 6, 2021 by linjudy

[Toxic]

Thank you for sharing!! I loved the last edition and glad the tiny lion ended up with a happy story and was reunited with its family! 

 

Amazing trip report and so glad you had a lovely time.

[Biko]

@linjudy Thanks for this wonderful tripreport. It hurts to know I should have been there around the same time. But it’s good to see how beautiful SLNP is in June, I hope to be there next year.

[AKR1]

@linjudy

Thanks very much for sharing your safari with us. I really enjoyed your Google Pics album photos in particular which really illustrated your Zambian safari. 

Edited July 6, 2021 by AKR1

[linjudy]

Thanks @Toxic, @Bikoand @AKR1. I'm glad you enjoyed the report! I don't usually write so much, but wanted to do what I can to persuade folks to go to Zambia if they have trips planned and are on the fence about whether to cancel or postpone. I know we were very much in that position and almost didn't go.

 

I do think if you're fully vaccinated and your country doesn't have super onerous travel restrictions like mandatory hotel quarantine, a safari is actually one of the safest international holidays. You are outside every minute, and not crowded into restaurants or bars. The Zambian camps are all small mom/pop operators. They are not Wilderness or And Beyond, and it just feels like if this year is another total wash, it would just be devastating to the locals. Hopefully the photos prove that there is a wonderful time to be had

[madaboutcheetah]

What a lovely report @linjudy- I'm glad you made it to Zambia.  I have LZ on my list of places to get to - One day!!!  Your pictures of the ebony forest takes me back in time!!  Such a special part of the SLNP ..... Thank You!! 

[linjudy]

@madaboutcheetah, thanks! Yes the ebony forest was so beautiful. Next time I want to do a walk there. Hope you make it back to Zambia soon!

[marg]

@linjudyThank you very much!  We have been to the areas where you were, so it is especially nice to have a revisit.

[nsoltz]

We meet again on a different forum!

 

Never seen a wild dog. Looking forward! My Aug 15 trip now looking good. To fill in others on this forum, plans for leave Aug 15 for Nsefu, Tena Tena and Mapazi walking camp. Mapazi will not open for season and then learned Tena Tena is not opening. My superb travel company arranged Nkwali (after of course asking whether I wanted to postpone to 2022) and is in process of one more substitute, possibly Mwanba.

[ForWildlife]

@nsoltzgreat to hear they're offering you different options, but sad to read that Tena Tena and Mupamadzi mobile safaris aren't running this year. The operators are hurting

[linjudy]

Quote

We meet again on a different forum!

 

Haha, @nsoltz. Hope everything works out for you! I think your chances of seeing a wild dog at Nsefu in August is very very good.

Edited July 10, 2021 by linjudy

[TravelMore]

@linjudyI am truly enjoying enjoying this report.  So much so, I need to get a move on and finish my S.A. report    BUT, I've been sidetracked by SO many things, most importantly planning next year's trip.  We are definitely going to Zambia, it will be our first trip there.  We so love Mala Mala, we were going to start there, then go to South Luangwa, but now I'm considering doing South Luangwa and lower Zambezi.  My husband was not enthralled with the idea of canoe trips unfortunately, but seeing the pontoon boat at Chiawa, that, I may be able to talk him into.  Did you take proflight into Jeki?  Was that from Lusaka?

[linjudy]

@TravelMoreso happy you're enjoying the report, and that you will be going to Zambia next year! As I said, every safari has been "the best" in its own way, but our next trip will for sure be Zambia again :). Hoping to convince the husband to go as soon as next year!

 

Yes, we took Proflight. First from Lusaka to Mfuwe (South Luangwa), then Mfuwe to Jeki, then finally Jeki to Lusaka. As for the canoeing, I was also a bit concerned about it given the huge number of hippos, but in the end it really wasn't that scary. Our guides were very skilled and careful. We simply "pulled over" when necessary. And, if that's still a no-go for your husband, the boat should be safe enough and you can go cruising or add fishing to it. I think given that it's such a long way to travel, adding LZ is a good idea. It is really lovely and fun.

 

Good luck planning, and feel free to PM me for questions.

[TravelMore]

@linjudyMy challenge in deciding is I'm so ridiculously, in love with my camera and Mala Mala.  For me, it's all about the wildlife - and if THAT's not a cliche, nothing is, haha.  On MM, we average 4 leopards a day, lions all day.  But I'm sure Zambia will be beautiful! We are looking at Kaingo to start.  I may have questions for you soon 

[Kitsafari]

@linjudy thanks for sharing the trip. i enjoyed the photos a lot, and a lot of very fond memories of SLuangwa which still remains one of my favourite parks. 

 

Wasn't Mwamba just fantastic? it is still one of our most favourite camps in Africa and among the experiences there, one of them - a battle royale between a buffalo and sick lion right in front of Mwamba hide - is still one of my top three experiences ever. Mwamba rooms look different - just a touch less rustic  with a solid door to the bathroom, and is that a concrete floor I see? the lounge looks exactly the same. and they have a tree house too now.

 

We had enjoyed their hides a lot - were they not in use when you were there? Patrick is a fabulous guide. 

 

When were you in South Luangwa/Zambezi please? I'm also surprised you didn't see many lions. Did the guides say why the lions were not sighted? we saw loads when we were in SLNP (in 2014 - my TR link : 

https://www.safaritalk.net/topic/13282-ebb-and-flow-ebb-and-flow-in-slnp/?tab=comments#comment-138806

.