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Karibu Kenya 2023


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Well, what a difference. We got back home to the UK yesterday after a two week trip to Kenya. Leaving our last accommodation on Sunday after lunch with temperatures pushing up around 38C to 39C and this morning it is sub-zero and snowing!


I want to go back, well I always want to go back to Africa so no real surprise there.

This trip worked for us on so many levels, timing, different, choice of places, things seen. A really good one.


I also want to go back and play with my new camera after a steep learning curve. I bought a Canon EOS R7 in January with the 100-400 zoom and a 1.4x converter. I thought mirrorless would be beyond my pocket until I found out about this camera. But even after lots of play and practice at home and reading about settings etc it took me a while to get my head around using it. Not least ending up with 40 or 50 shots of a bird sitting on the ground instead of two. Lots of shots missed because of my inability to swap settings quickly, but I am getting there and very happy with the camera.


Anyway; onto more interesting stuff. Daytime BA to Nairobi was good with excellent views down the Balkans and Greece and then the Nile. It was dark by the time we flew over Khartoum and then we landed. We used Cheli&Peacock in Nairobi to book the trip and I really like their service in Nairobi. Lovely lady meeting us after landing, with a trolley for hand luggage and telling us to get our Covid certs out then to a Visa queue with one person ahead of us instead of the 40 already in the main line. Bags collected, Shilllings acquired and off to the Aero Club of East Africa for the night. Quirky place but suits us. Nice breakfast and then to the Safarilink terminal for our first flight. Even here the C&P people came with us and checked us in and looked after bags (one being left here for later in the trip). The older I get the more I appreciate being looked after!


Up in the air and heading north to Nanyuki Kamok and Ol Pejeta. Buffalo on the landing strip and Elephants to the side as we came in.

Gosh it was dry. One of the first things that greeted us was right by the airstrip pausing to sort out cameras and watching a family group of Elephants drinking at the water troughs when a dust devil came swirling in panicking the Ellies who ran off trumpeting!

Short drive to Ol Pejeta Bush Camp (Asilia) in time for lunch.


Just a couple of piccies to start giving a sense of the dry landscape and a very accomodating Kori Bustard strutting his stuff. One of the settings I was persuaded to follow with the camera was just shooting RAW. I have normally saved RAW and JPEG and will revert to this as coming home having just RAW files I have found really frustrating on my computer. This morning's (slow) job is batch processing rather a lot of piccies from RAW to JPEG!




















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An excellent start, I am looking forward to your next posts.

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So; a little bit about Ol Pejeta Bush Camp and my thoughts.

Really rather positive, my type of camp. Pretty low key but comfy, well run and great food. We got put in the family tent which was the closest to the main area and had a lovely big sitting room between two bedroom tents and a great verandah overlooking the river.


Quite a lot of stuff around (and in!) camp with a view over the river (very low) to a pool which attracted all sorts during our stay. The camp has a low electric fence around it to keep out the big stuff. Probably necessary!




A very calm Bushbuck around.....




and his really pretty daughter.




I was pleased to see a couple of Paradise Flycatchers from the tent, not seen any of these for a while.





and plenty more from this Crowned Hornbill, Malachite Kingfisher, Black-lored Babblers, Red-headed Weaver and others.




This was a great camp for noises at night. Tree Hyrax, never heard these before, a really noisy scream. We had a Lion walk along the river bank which upset the Baboons and an Elephant (trumpeting away). And then Hyena and more distant Lions calling.


I wish there wasn't such pressure on getting out into the park to have spent more time in and around the camp, oh, and energy after lunch of course.

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I am glad you had a good safari @AndrewB - thank you for sharing this trip report.   I am enjoying it.

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As we flew north from Nairobi it became clear just how dry things were. I had read about the drought but also heard that the short rains had been quite good. Not in Ol Pejeta though.

The Conservancy team were struggling to keep the water points and troughs full. Some had water, many were empty. The reservoirs and dams were low and although some water in the rivers they were not flowing.

Shortly after arriving, we saw a family group of Elephant coming in. Our guide thought these had come down a corridor from further north. Plodding along then speeding up as they came to a water trough. Empty. They looked really dejected, soon moving on. The oldest female looked in pretty poor condition, as can be seen here.




Animals were dying due to no water and feed. Buffalo becoming easy prey to the Lions and some Thomson Gazelle struggling. We saw a Lioness take a Tommie which was clearly distressed (more on this later) and another Tommie had just stopped and fallen over by the airstrip on our last morning. Jackals and Tawny eagles had found it.


A big draw of Ol Pejeta for me is the abundance of Rhino. Saw lots! I even started to be able to attempt identification from a distance due to the shape of the back. Mind you, as can be seen here, grazing needed perseverance.




Quite a number of calves around. This one entertained us for ages playing with a dried leaf or something. Bouncing around, running at the vehicle then getting scared and squeaking away while mum remained totally indifferent to our presence.




But the best was another youngster trying to work out how to wallow in the mud!




We visited the Northern White Rhino enclosure and fed carrots to Barracka, the blind Black Rhino. I was surprised how much I got out of this visit, interesting and moving.




Rhino also make a very pleasing addition to a moody sunset pic.




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I'd love to go back to Ol Pejeta when there is more green in the landscape and not just the safari vehicles. Such varied landscape in what seems a small area, although our guide said that we had covered less than half the park in our three days. I spent a lot of time standing up in the land cruiser with my head out of the hatch just gazing around (and got a sunburnt nose for my troubles).


One morning we had been bumbling around seeing some nice stuff, the Kori Bustard I posted a pic of in the earlier post, Jackson's Hartebeest, a beautiful Montagu's Harrier and other bits and bobs.

I patiently waited, finger on the button, for a Common Kestrel to take off and give me a good shot. It flew just as I had to move as my arms were going to sleep of course.

And then our guide said "anyone for breakfast" as we were nearing one of his spots. After a clear yes we came around a corner to be faced by a mountain of Hyena and Jackal on top of the remains of a poor old Buffalo. I tried to count and got to at least a dozen Hyena and somewhere around 15 plus Jackal. Noisy and interesting to watch the squabbling and interactions.



We then moved to the breakfast spot and found the main culprits sitting under the tree earmarked for our stop! Obviously a top spot to sit in the shade of a tree with good views all round!





We only stayed here for a few minutes, I don't think the female even twitched and the male simply sat there panting with his eyes shut the whole time.

So; after a delayed breakfast we wandered on to what I think is called Pelican Reservoir. By now a little water and a lot of mud (this is where the Rhino were having a mud bath in the previous post). A few waders, Black Winged Stilt, Marsh Sandpiper, Common Sandpiper. Some Yellow Billed Duck and Spoonbill. On the far side were a group of Elephant coming down to drink and a couple of Tommies and further away some Impala.

Something caused me to glance behind the truck and this little chap came down on all its own to the dam for a drink.




What followed was one of the most fascinating wildlife experiences of my life. My camera tells me it was over two hours (and 361 photos!) and lunch eventually happened back in camp at about 2pm!

Roughly what happened was that the cub was followed by two adult females. One of these started to go over the dam wall (there was a Thomson's Gazelle drinking). A group of Elephant were coming down towards that side of the dam for a drink. Elephant saw Lion, Elephant chased Lion (noisy) and then a stand off with three Lions sitting underneath some thorn trees and Elephant milling around. It looked like the Elephant knew there were Lions somewhere but couldn't see, only smell them. Eventually the Elephant went down to drink and then slowly moved up behind us and away a short distance.

This is when the older female (who was collared for tracking and well known to our guide) went back on to the dam wall and slowly crossed over. There was nothing visible on the far side to us, even with Binoculars, but suddenly the Lioness bounded forward to a thorn bush, cloud of dust and out she came with the Thomson's Gazelle we had seen earlier.

She took this to another thorn bush and was joined by the other adult and cub. The older female didn't stay to feed but left. Apparently these Lions had killed a young Buffalo quite close by early in the morning. We had seen this pride the evening before as "flat cats" with the two adults and five cubs, two small and three a bit bigger.

The younger adult and cub were feeding when a few Zebra came in towards the dam for a drink. The lioness stalked and attempted a hunt but missed (noisy and quite exciting).

Two more small families of Elephant came in. Some squabbling here and one group of Elephant clearly weren't welcome and were chased away while the other two groups merged with trumpetting and all round greetings.

After quite some time the older, collared, female reappeared with the other 4 cubs. There wasn't much Gazelle left or to be seen under a pile of bodies so we left them to it.

Phew; and time for our lunch as well. Here are just a few of the 361 piccies I took! In order to try to give a sense of what happened.


Younger Lioness coming down to drink.




Stand off!!




Elephants win!




Cub runs to Mum











A little later, poor little Tommie still kicking here.




Everyone needs to eat












and under this pile of Lions is what is left of the Gazelle.



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Ol Pejeta just kept giving. It was a fascinating few days for the variety of behaviours we saw. Such as this beautiful male Cheetah. Doing the rounds and scent marking but most amusingly being "chased" by a flock of Guinea Fowl for ages.








Something we saw both here and in Naibosho was squabbling between two Tawny Eagles. All I could think of was it was the adult trying to convince an immature it was time to leave the territory and move on.




But on this morning the most extraordinary spectacle. Somewhere along a deep river amongst mature trees we stopped for breakfast. As we drove in we saw a couple of Crowned Cranes on the ground and then more flying in.




 and more, and more, until there were at least 120 on the ground close to our spot. Really quite something, and our guide said he had never seen so many. Lovely accompaniment to food, trumpeting and displaying.




I discovered there were birds I hadn't even heard of! Like this Kittlilz's Plover!




Mind you, some bird names are simply there to confuse an old man. Brown Parrot looks just like a Meyer's Parrot to me! These two confused me a little. They were in and out of a hole in a tree, nesting? I don't know, something about the plumage suggests immature. Pretty and fun to watch, however.






From the same spot on a bridge there were two Fish Eagle posing well.




A Purple Roller nearby (a first for me)





and a Common Rock Thrush was in the tree as we waited to enter the Northern White Rhino enclosure, just to make waiting a pleasant interlude.




Ol Pejeta was fascinating. From watching the Ankole Cattle being put in their Boma for the night, exploring the old quarry where stone had been dug out for the roads and talking to the guards on their Rhino patrols. A fascinating place.

There is a Hyena Den with quite a number of small cubs and we had passed by hopefully. But all quiet, it is right by the conservancy airstrip and planes, helicopters and vehicles had been whizzing around as some darting/capture of Rhino was going on, so the Hyena were sensibly keeping well hidden.

A night drive was planned for our last evening after an early supper.

A wash out in many ways!

We briefly saw a Zorilla and then a Whitetailed Mongoose but that was it. The highlight of the drive was the rain. It rained! Soft, gentle rain and the smell was beautiful. Rain on soil and rain on plants, desperately needed, and I do like the smell of rain on dry ground. The weather was turning, it looked like it had been raining over on Mount Kenya some of the time and with a bit of luck the drought will soon have a reprieve, until the next one I suppose. Animals and plants are so resilient if given the chance.

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And the time came to move on and leave Ol Pejeta, a last look at a couple of Rhino next to the Rhino Cemetery after a very early departure from the camp.




The hope of a really early departure was Hyena, and baby Hyena in particular! It paid off. A wonderful time spent watching cubs bouncing around and adults looking after them in the early morning light.

But also the dark side of Hyena society as one of the smallest cubs was being severely bullied by an adult, time and time again and didn't seem to be able to get away.








But our ten o'clock flight was beckoning and time to wave goodbye to the Hyena, our guide and the wonderful place that is the Ol Pejeta Conservancy. Onto the Caravan and heading south. Such a contrast to the north as we flew. Green grass! Greener and greener the further south we got.


I thought we might have a view of Naivasha but we stayed to the east of the Aberdares before landing at Mara North. Due to routing of the flying taxi service we swapped here for another flight to Ol Seki in Naibosho. And witnessed the bad side of international tourism. A bloke got off our flight and his vehicle wasn't there. What a fuss! On the phone immediately to someone, "I have been waiting ages" (ten minutes), complaining to the guy running the airstrip, demanding to know where his vehicle was "I am losing valuable time in the field" and then his vehicle turned up with people leaving on board and he demanded that the driver leave those leaving and take him immediately to the camp. So rude and abusive and unnecessary! Mind you he looked the part, Nosilife shirt and one of those waistcoats with lots of pockets and a Tilley hat!!


Anyway, lovely hop to Ol Seki, just us and two pilots and low, lots to see. The landing was so smooth I had to mention it to the pilot and she said it was the trainee sitting in the co-pilot seat who landed. They both beamed with pleasure. But no truck waiting for us! There was a vehicle that had just dropped off passengers from Basecamp and he took us on, there were no more flights due and the guy looking after things wanted to go for lunch! Met our drivers a few minutes later and took the road to Basecamp Leopard Hill.


 A nice welcome was a mob of Banded Mongoose who didn't immediately run away!





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We'd great and fond memories of Ol Pejeta too - saw our first striped hyena there and had a good proper look of a zorilla, and plenty of lions and rhinos, and of course the 2 northern whites. 

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And so we arrived in Naibosho Conservancy for three days. Two nights at Basecamp Leopard Hill and then a final night at Basecamp Eagle View (complicated story).

Such a lovely place, real variety of scenery and green compared with where we had come from. I was very impressed with the behaviour and courtesy of all the safari drivers in not hogging sightings and moving out to let others in. Also impressed with how well trained most of the animals and birds are here. Obviously they had been taught to look at the cameras and hold position rather than turning their backs and slinking away immediately as happens in so many places!


Quintessential Africa for me.




Jackals all over the place, we saw lots in Ol Pejeta and they seemed to be everywhere here. I can't remember seeing so many anywhere else we have been.




Even the Dik-Dik stopped for piccie!




Secretary bird glancing at the camera.




Lappet-faced Vultures canoodling, well actually probably trying to keep warm as this was very early one morning.




And a Magpie Shrike at the extreme north of its normal range. Took me a while to figure out what this was. Our guide had never seen one before this close.




And a peaceful White-browed Coucal, simply sitting! Taken at 300mm zoom and no cropping.




So; a new lodge, a new guide (two of them) and a new area. I don't know if anyone else has struggled when moving on from a wonderful experience to somewhere new? We do and have a number of times.


Leopard Hill is a decent lodge, tents are very comfy and with an electrically operated sliding roof that you can open to lie in bed and look at the stars (but, remember to close it if any rain is forecast! We didn't to be woken with drops landing on top of us in the night), nice comfy central area and something to look at in front of the tents and main area with a pond, watercourse and valley. Slightly odd as there were only two other guests our first night (who never spoke to us) and one other on the second evening (nice guy, shared a drive and supper). Food was really great and the bush breakfasts were interesting, creative and varied. Staff were lovely with nothing too much trouble.


When we booked we were told we couldn't have three nights here and so accepted a third and final night at the sister lodge, Eagle View. Really strange as Leopard Hill was only half full the night after we left. Eagle View, wonderful view. Other than that it felt very tired as did the staff and the food was a real drop in standard. A bit less money (about $125 ppppn) and this showed. Mind you the WiFi was good even in the furthest tent as a bit of a UK thingy appeared and needed dealing with.


Luckily we kept our guides and vehicle throughout. Obviously the "useless" guide we first met proved to be the opposite. As I said we had two. The guide and an assistant (guide in training) and a great team. The assistant had amazing eyes and was working hard on her recognition (particularly birds, my app on the tablet was used quite a bit) and will in due course I am sure be really good at her job. The main guide proved to be amazing. He really had that second sight to know where animals were going to turn up. He didn't just follow but bounced ahead and waited, which worked well on three separate Lion sighting and was inspirational on a Leopard sighting. He was also attentive about doing the best he could to get the light in the best place etc for a piccie and considerate of others and on one occasion (Lion) checked I had pics I wanted before pulling back a little to let another vehicle in.


His skills at lighting a piece of dry Elephant dung with a couple of pieces of wood needs work, however.

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Naibosho is a wonderland for the grazers and plains game, although we saw very few Elephant, apparently they were all down nearer the Mara and Talek rivers at the moment.


Lovely mixed herds like this with Topi, Zebra, Wildebeest and Warthog.




Flying Topi




Punk Ossicones








And babies all over the place.








and then this.........




We were about 60 or 70yds away and heard a bellow and saw this little chap fall to the ground. Moved to a respectful distance and watched. Absolutely incredible and I feel privileged to have seen this from start to finish. Mind you, we really experienced just how quickly calves get their feet as this second shot was 13 minutes later according to my photo records.




and a short video of this newborns first steps.



Well, that sighting was really something special.


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Calling a camp Leopard Hill does suggest (to me at least) that finding a Leopard should be on the cards. So we looked, along a drainage line in front of camp where a large male Leopard had been seen a couple of days before. Up and down, in and out and nothing but a Striped Kingfisher seen lurking in the bushes. And the remains of a young Zebra hanging forlornly in a tree.




But that night we certainly heard him! Sawing away right behind the tent, easily the noisiest and closest Leopard I have ever heard. Soon followed by a Lion roaring just in front of the tent. This chap was so close that it did feel like the tent was vibrating.


The next evening we went to the same area (well it was right next to camp) and about 50yds from the Zebra tree found a flat cat. In fairness, another guide first found her and called us in.




A very pretty young female who hadn't been seen in this area for quite some time. We sat, we waited, and patience paid off about 40 minutes later with some movement.








By now there were 4 or 5 vehicles around and our chap pulled out and left her, crossing over a drainage line and round to the tree with a bit of Zebra hanging from a branch. Sure enough, within a few minutes she appeared and climbed the tree to, somewhat hopefully, inspect the remains for anything to eat.




Before posing delightfully for us.




Shortly after she came down and disappeared into the thicket and we left. A lovely hour spent with this very attractive cat. Hopefully she found something to eat later that night.


Light was fading as we came across some bigger cats.




I think it was 8 cubs, two adult females and a large male. The cubs and male wandered into a dense drainage line and the two females started their evening walk. We followed, catching vague glimpses through binoculars as the light rapidly disappeared. Probably something like 700 to 800 yards up the hill was quite a mixed group of Zebra, Wildebeest and Topi. Our guide moved slowly up the hill, nothing to see when suddenly chaos, with Zebras snorting and other noises. Shot forwards, headlights on full, and right in front of us a Lioness on top of a Wildebeest. Animals going in all directions and clouds of dust. The Lioness and Wildebeest disappeared to the ground and only the Wildebeest got up, running away.


The two Lionesses came together and lay down panting. We left, there wasn't going to be another hunt for some time.


A slow meander back to camp which wasn't far away, a few Scrub Hares and we were entertained by a pair of Springhares for quite some time. A lovely end to an exciting evening.

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Lions! There are Lions in Naibosho, who knew?

I never really got my head around which pride we were watching and who was the dominant male. There were lots, over our three days we sat and watched at least 7 different groups.


How to keep the kids quiet; provide a Warthog.


On our last afternoon we had thunder, lightning and heavy rain. Delayed going out a little, waiting for it to stop. It did, we left, started again, hid in the truck with the sides down. Rain stopped we moved on and found these three beautiful, mature, males on patrol. We didn't stay long as it was really busy. Shortly after we came across three sub-adult males and watched these while we had a drink. The light was going fast and I didn't pick up the camera, happy to watch them stretching and interacting with each other.





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There was more rain overnight and on our last morning in Naibosho we awoke to heavy mist. Leaving early, it was quite surreal seeing Giraffe heads up in the mist and pre-dawn light. We soon came upon a pride of Lions. Our guide drove straight to where they were, close to camp, and we were the first vehicle at the sighting. No idea how he knew they were there or just luck, coupled with a "good idea".

Beautiful; many, many Lions sitting, stretching, moving around slowly as the sun came up. Apparently this was the huge local pride, I think we were told there were something like 28 of them in total and this morning we watched two groups a couple of hundred yards apart.


One of those magical and unforgettable Africa experiences.













Someone had been in the wars, whether defending his territory and pride or during a hunt, I have no idea. Luckily, it looks like neither eye were damaged.




A quick breakfast and time to head to Ol Seki airstrip and back to Nairobi.

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And the time had come to move on.

A final surprise on the way to Ol Seki airstrip. It would have been fascinating to have had the time to watch this out but it was not to be.




You can see little hooves showing here.




Up in the air and dropping in to Keekorok to drop off and pick up and a final sighting. Dropping down at the end of the airstrip and a double take as two Cheetah walked nonchalantly along a little river bed just a few yards from the airstrip.


And then Wilson Airport and a swap to a bigger plane for Lamu. We had got an email saying the Safarilink flight had been amalgamated with a Precision Air flight. Oh dear, all sorts of tooing and froing at Wilson, we planned to get something for lunch in the Safarilink Lounge but this was not to be, nothing with Precision Air. The plane was a Fokker 50, first one built by the look of it with bits of trim falling off the luggage pods and seats that rocked back and forwards. Won't be flying Precision Air again! Anyway, Lamu and some lovely guys with a boat to take us to Kizingo Lodge on the far south east tip of the island.


Lovely, nothing to do. We loved this place but I expect it wouldn't suit everyone. Very simple bandas spread out in the sand dunes. Fish and vegetarian meals (stunning cooking!), wonderful staff but by god it was hot! Staff were saying it was incredibly hot, hitting 39C most days. We got up, had a walk, had breakfast, went for a swim and then hid. Luckily there was a decent breeze every day and by 4pm things cooled down (time for another swim) and pleasant in the evenings.


We planned to go to Lamu town for a day but really couldn't be bothered due to the heat.




Boat back to Lamu airport, Safarilink (nice comfy Dash) to Wilson, transfer to JKIA and a flight home. All on time and no luggage disappeared!


Glorious, wonderful trip with so many really interesting things to see. I will always remember Lions and Elephants, Lions in the mist, a Wildebeest calf being born and Rhinos!



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lions in the mist were so atmospheric. thank you for sharing - great to see you had some wonderful sightings!

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Read every word of your wonderful trip! So beautifully described! Awesome photos to go with the description!! We'll be in Kenya in June and will be in Ol Pejeta too. So, the description of your experience in Ol Pejeta would definitely help. This will be our FIRST trip to Africa and I hope will not be the last. Beside Ol Pejeta, we'll also visit Amboseli, Lake Nakuru, Lake Bogoria, and Masai Mara. Hope to share my experience after we return home in July. Thank you for sharing your great journey!

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On 3/12/2023 at 5:30 PM, AndrewB said:

Calling a camp Leopard Hill does suggest (to me at least) that finding a Leopard should be on the cards. So we looked, along a drainage line in front of camp where a large male Leopard had been seen a couple of days before


This is probably the male Leopard you are referring to. It was seen on the 16th in the area below Leopard Hill.


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11 minutes ago, mvecht said:


This is probably the male Leopard you are referring to. It was seen on the 16th in the area below Leopard Hill.


If so, he is very noisy!!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ol Pejeta -- The lion/ele interaction is especially interesting.  That annoying guy at the airstrip does not deserve a Tilley.  Zorilla, wow!  Your description of the animals' reactions to lack of water is heartbreaking.  The young black hyenas are such a treat.  Your rhinos in the sunrise and sunset are classic Ol Pejeta.  Great start to your trip.

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Very efficient trip reporting, with photos - begun a day after arriving home. I suppose you had some downtime in Lamu to get started? Clearly a great time at Ol Pejeta despite (or maybe because of) the lack of water. 


Love all the cubs and the births! 


It's really odd that you got moved when the camp wasn't full but perhaps there was a cancellation and somebody just couldn't be bothered charging you the extra money again.

Sorry to hear that Eagle View was 'tired', especially the staff. Revenue from that camp funds the Koiyaki School and is (partially I think) still the finishing school for many hospitality and guiding students - so 'tired' staff doesn't seem like good news.

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Thank you for a great report. Lots of lovely photos - you had some excellent sightings.

I was a bit shocked to see Ol Pejeta looking so dry - really tough for the people and the wildlife

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The misty lions were indeed magical.  How exciting you saw the hooves of a soon-to-be-born calf.  What dates were you there?

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3 hours ago, Atravelynn said:

  What dates were you there?

Got to Nairobi on Feb 21, Naibosho was 25th to 28th Feb.

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