Alaska birding and mammal safari June 2023

[Kitsafari]

Finally found the time to catch up with the report. OMword I love that Ermine! great shots of the Ptarmigan.

 

Has the TR ended? I thoroughly enjoyed the report and the photos - they keep tugging at the heart for a return to Alaska, but so many places on my list.

 

Thanks for sharing Nathan.  

[offshorebirder]

I am sorry @Kitsafari -  I neglected to wrap up the trip report.   

 

After our day on the Kougarok Road and the flat tire adventure, our final morning we went to the airport and checked our bags, then returned the vehicle at the Aurora Inn.  Then we checked out of our room a couple of hours before the flight and took a taxi to the airport for our return flights to Anchorage and then home.

 

Below are some recommendations based on our June 2023 experience:

 

Airline / flying info:

 

Alaska Airlines has daily flights to Nome (2) and Barrow (1).   They use jet airliners and a paved runway - not bush flights.  However, the airport uses VFR (Visual Flight Rules) so planes cannot land if it is foggy or the cloud ceiling is too low.  So sometimes planes trying to land have to turn around and return to Anchorage.  For this reason, I try and book the morning flight to Nome or the morning return flight to Anchorage, so I have a chance of getting on the afternoon flight if the morning one cannot land.

 

For my next Alaska safari, I am using Alaska Airlines for the entire trip - so if my flight is delayed or canceled leaving Barrow on the final day, presumably Alaska Airlines will have to get me on another of their connecting flights home (the next day or whenever).  And give assistance with lodging.   

 

For Nome and Barrow, if your checked bags do not make it on your flight with you, Alaska Airlines will send them the next day.  Then you need to go to the airport and check for them - they do not seem to bring the bags to your hotel.  Be sure and save your baggage claim slips and fill out a form with the attendant if your checked bags do not make it on your flight.  

Lodging and vehicle rental recommendations:

 

Anchorage:
Vehicle rentals:  Alaska 4x4 rentals.   Locally owned, not a large corporate chain, easy to change pickup times, reasonably priced.  We reserved a midsize SUV with all wheel drive - and we got a GMC Envoy.  
Lodging:  several options - most bird tours use the Coast Inn at Lake Hood which is close to the airport, has an onsite restaurant, lots of parking, walkable birding area nearby.  Roger and I used it this past year and had no complaints.  It lacks an elevator but only has two stories.

 

Nome:
Vehicle Rentals:  The Aurora Inn.   We rented a Ford Explorer 4 wheel drive and it was nice, fairly new and had good ground clearance.  
Lodging:   The Aurora Inn - best option in town by far.    https://aurorainnome.com/

 

Barrow:
Vehicle Rentals:   The King Eider Inn rents 4x4 vehicles for half the price of the UIC.   But you have to reserve the vehicles far in advance - a year is recommended.   Otherwise the UIC - https://uicalaska.com/our-companies/uic-car-rental/
Lodging:  The King Eider Inn https://www.kingeider.net/ No onsite restaurant but across the street from the airport and best lodging in town.
      Top of the World Hotel   https://www.tundratoursinc.com/ Onsite restaurant, some of the bird tours stay here.  Close second in terms of quality.

 

Denali:
Lodging near the park:   McKinley Creekside Cabins  https://www.mckinleycabins.com/ Great place, onsite restaurant and bakery, just south of the park entrance and near the western end of the Denali Highway.  

 

Denali Highway:
Lodging at the eastern end of Denali Highway:  Denali Highway Cabins and Paxson Alpine Tours.   Proprietor Audie is a wealth of information for birding, mammals, and general natural history.  

 

Seward:  
Lodging:   Sea Treasures Inn    https://www.innalaska.com/ The Vue    https://thevueseward.com/
Boat trips / pelagic trips:    https://www.alaskaseabirds.com/
Dining:  The Highliner  https://highlinerseward.com/ plus several restaraunts near the docks / marina.
Hiking:  ranger-led hikes in Kenai Fjords National Park where large mammals are very possible.   Register at the Exit Glacier Nature Center at the end of Exit Glacier Road.
       

Groceries and supplies for self-drivers:

 

- Anchorage has a Costco store for people who are Costco members.   

- Fred Meyer is a large grocery store chain with multiple Anchorage area locations.  They also carry pharmacy/drug store items, hardware, sporting goods, etc.  

- Brown Jug stores in Anchorage carry beer/wine/spirits.   

- Nome has two grocery stores - Alaska Commercial Company and Hanson's / Safeway.    Alaska Commercial Company has clothing, sporting goods, and more.

- Barrow has one real grocery store and a smaller one.    Stuaqpak is the larger/better one.

In terms of itineraries - we really liked the self-driving circuit we did from Anchorage, down to Seward, then up to Paxson, down the Denali Highway, Denali NP, then back to Anchorage.   This can be combined with flights to Nome and/or Barrow where vehicles can be rented.  

 

If I had only a week to visit Alaska, I would spend a couple of days around Anchorage and 5 days in Nome.     If one only had 10 days, perhaps a couple of days in Seward including a boat trip, then 5 days in Nome.

For 2+ weeks in Alaska, one could do a trip like Roger and I did - or combine a stay at a Grizzly safari lodge with stays in Nome and/or Barrow.  

 

 

Edited March 1 by offshorebirder

[Kitsafari]

@offshorebirder thanks for coming back to wrap it up. lots of useful info, which hopefully one day I will make use of if and when I make it to Anchorage !

[Atravelynn]

"I am sorry the photo quality of this trip report has been substandard thus far,"  Hardly!  Those puffins, baby moose, warblers are lovely shots, not to mention Great Harvest Bread.  I was very interested in your time in the arctic and Nome with the polar bears, ermine, musk ox and of course the Red-necked Stint.  The far north really increases the diversity of observable Alaskan wildlife. Despite the lost long underwear and tire problems, you had tremendous success up there. 

 

 

[Zim Girl]

Great trip report @offshorebirder and very useful info at the end, thank you very much!

[offshorebirder]

Thanks for the kind words @Kitsafari, @Atravelynn and @Zim Girl

 

 

[TonyQ]

Just to add my thanks for a fascinating report, really enjoyable!

[inyathi]

Wonderful, I’ll have to reread this properly a few times, in the next few months, I’m looking forward to the sequel, that I hope  will deliver us some equally great wildlife sightings, especially bears, I’ve yet to see one of any kind. 

 

14 hours ago, Atravelynn said:

Despite the lost long underwear

 

I just ordered some thermal underwear last night, if they don’t get lost on the way to me, I might have to see if I can fit them in my camera bag, I have what I hope is suitable winter jacket on the way as well, if the pockets are big enough, they may end up stuffed with clothes, i’m not sure I’d want wear them and risk overheating on the flights. Not used to going on a safari, to somewhere that could be seriously cold, I normally prefer hot places, so I might end up overdressed throughout. If the wildlife delivers, I’m sure I will cope with the cold.

[Atravelynn]

1 hour ago, inyathi said:

 

 

I just ordered some thermal underwear last night, if they don’t get lost on the way to me, I might have to see if I can fit them in my camera bag, I have what I hope is suitable winter jacket on the way as well, if the pockets are big enough, they may end up stuffed with clothes, i’m not sure I’d want wear them and risk overheating on the flights.

 

I actually always wear 2 pairs of trousers on flights because I get cold.  This last trip, to save even more room so that I could do only carryon, I wore 3 pairs of trousers!  Good luck stowing the long undies!