The Good,The Remote and the Rustic, a return to the Luangwa Valley

[Towlersonsafari]

We were lucky enough to visit the Luangwa valley in September and had a splendid time, with some moments of panic at the beginning and end! (the latter self-inflicted). We last had a lodge based holiday-the Lower Zambezi, 10 years ago and this would be our third trip the the Luangwa , probably our favourite lodge safari destination, but we had not been there for probably 15 years. the cost of south africa self-drives have been very persuasive.

still this year was our 25th wedding anniversary, and Jane had a  significant birthday, so last year we booked up.

still bemoaning the loss of the direct Lusaka flight we did not fancy 3 flight in quick succession so Jane found what seemed like a fine place to spend a couple of nights in Lusaka (and one on the way home) Lilayi lodge, where we could relax and do some birding.It turned out to be a fine choice, but first, some panic-although i wont keep anyone interested in the main aprt of the holiday hanging around too long

[Towlersonsafari]

so we booked the flights from Heathrow-joburg (BA) and then to Lusaka (Airlink) at the same time through BA's website. We had looked at the flatdogs website and noted their deals so Lawsons went through them and the trip was

2 nights Lilayi lodge in Lusaka ( https://lilayilodge.com/  )

4 nights Flatdogs- we have only heard good things and very reasonable price

4 nights Luambe camp-the only camp in the Luambe reserve so somewhere new to us

4 nights Nkonzi- a traditional basic camp with the chance to walk

1 night back at Lilayi lodge

home

There was 4 hours between the BA flight landing and the Airlink flight leaving.when we checked the bags in we were told that although the tags said they were  checked in to Lusaka we had to pick them at up at joberg, which added a nice air of mystery to the proceedings. We boarded only about 20 minutes late.then after about 30 mins we were told that their was a "slight technical issue 2 and a spare part had been sent for.We could see that at least one wing was present though so no need to panic.

a bit later that problem had been fixed but they needed to fix the entertainment screens so they could do the safety briefing

after about 3 hours they suddenly realised ( I assume it ame as a shock to them and not something that should have been "bleedin obvious2 that by the time the plane reached Joberg the pilots would be over their hours but not to worry A spare pilot was on his way!

4 hours on the tarmac.we elt a bit like this Yellow baboon

[Towlersonsafari]

As supporters of Forest, or the Chargers, or England footy teams will know, its the hope that kills. The pilot said we could make up an hour- and as the flight neared joberg various stewards played a game of guessing if we could make the connection, and if our luggage could make it, the answers alternating each time until we stopped asking. then announcements were made as the staff frantically tried to re-book all the lost connecting flights-it cannot have been easy- well all but at least one connecting flight! Waiting ground crew urged us on!

We were late to the gate by 5 minutes, but not to worry, as now our hold luggage had gone missing.

we were eventually told that it was "in the basement" and along with the luggage of over 140 other passengers, would be brought up.after some polite but stern words we rejected the first offer of re-booking a flight for the next day and were booked on an Air Rwanda flight at 4.00pm. We then palyed how long to wait for our luggae  or how long would it take to get checked in and to the right gate for Air Rwanda Jane always packs several changes of clothing in her hand luggage so with time slipping away we said goodbye to our hold luggage, and armed with our BA toothpaste, and with the splendid assistance of not one but 2 porters( worth their haggled weight in gold-we would not have made it without them) we got to the gate with 5 minutes to spare.would we ever see our luggage again? would we buy new toiletries for the sake of our fellow safari goers?

Edited September 28, 2023 by Towlersonsafari

[marg]

Oh my!  I hope you are able to give us good news!

[michael-ibk]

Always nerve-wracking when something like this happens - hopefully everything worked out? 

[JimS]

A cliff-hanger to end the episode!

 

Not wishing to tempt fate, but I have not yet suffered either the dreaded missed connection or the lost luggage. I have however suffered countless lost hours to delays, and nearly all on BA. I'm about to confirm flights to Zambia next June and I had faith in the 2.5hr window for my connection in Doha but your tale is a sobering reminder to plan for the worst while hoping for the best. Also highlights one advantage of planning a first night in a sizeable town/city where you could source new clothing and essentials. My own (current) plan is to bite the bullet and take all 3 legs to Mfuwe without a stopover and on to whichever camp I end up booking, but I'll certainly follow Jane's example and pack some essentials in hand luggage.

 

Many many years ago I was a research astronomer, and our mantra as we double-checked our bags departing for a field trip to a remote observatory was "passport, wallet, finder-charts". So long as you had those you could have a successful trip with no other possessions. These days I feel I'd have quite a few more things on that list.

 

Hope your tale has a happy middle and end!

Edited September 29, 2023 by JimS

[Kitsafari]

Urgh sorry to hear about that seat warming wait that went nowhere for 4 hours making you lose luggage and connecting flight. 

 

I hope your luggage found you two!

[Towlersonsafari]

thank you everyone who has followed along! and yes @JimSw ehave done over 15 trips and this was the first missed connection-and lost luggage! to end the saga of the missing luggage, the plan had been to spend an early moring at Lilayi lodge birding before breakfast, but we were knackered and had no sun block so instead we had a relaxed breakfast, and the lodge arranged for their driver to take us to a mall to but sun block, toiletries and a bag to put them in as it would have to go in the hold. When we landed at Lusaka airport the night before, ( and we don't know if it was our well tipped porters or BA but we were in a business class seat for the air rwanda flight,) the lodge driver for the trasfer was not available so a meet and great service-Mickael Phiri of Tours Africa-met us at Lusaka airport.Having listened to our tale of woe, he helped with the lost luggage form, took a copy and said he would see what he could do.the enxt day I did spend over an hour on the phone trying to get through to custome service at SA airlink- and about another hour trying to find a number! i did get through in time to here the automated essage saying the offices were now closed for the weekend.

when we arrived back at Lusaka airport, for the flight to Mfuwe, there was Michael with our luggage!! He had not been part of our trip, and he only was involved when we missed our flight, he took it upon himself to help, and succeeded where I epically failed-we were very happy and very impressed indeed.

[Towlersonsafari]

LILAYI LODGE

We found this to be a very good choice of stop over .the rooms were very comfortable, the staff very helpful and the restaurant had a wide choice including at least 3 veggie options.there is a small reserve and you can book guided walks, a mini-game drive or there are self-guided trails- our original plan was to do some walking and it seemed a good place for birding.we stayed there for one night on the way back and had coffee on the verandah watching a family of warthogs close by, who grunted their disaproval if we spoke to loundly or moved too quickly.also, and this is a sentance i never thought to type, there was a waterbuck in the ornamental fountain. the only possible downside was that it was an hours drive across lusaka from the airport- we had not appreciated this as  it is a lot closer as the crow flies.that meant an early srat on our way back home but we would gladly go there again, and the lodge provide the transfers.it seemed a very popular venue with local folk-and on the way back preperations were being made for a very fancy birthday party indeed.

Edited October 1, 2023 by Towlersonsafari

[Towlersonsafari]

FLATDOGS

 

I know other safaritalkers have said good things about flatdogs and friends of ours went there pre-pandemic and ad a great time and it was a very good price, but we were still suprised at how good it was.The rooms, the food and the location all were excellent but it was the sheer friendly professionalism of all the staff that we met  that made our stay exceptional.everyone seemed to know our names( and i have trouble rememering my own name at times), and everyone seemed to be friendly-we also liked the informal nature of the dining- you could order emals whenever- giving our evening meal orders before the afternoon drive so it would be ready for us on our return. You could inter-act with other geuests just as mutch as you wanted. when you made your way to the main area  for the activities the name of your guide was set out so you knew which table to go to.Our guide was Jonathan, a very friendly, very good guide indeed. 

We were asked not to go nearer than 50 metres ( not that we would have)  to the numerous Bull elephants that would cross the river and enjoy the camp's trees- and twice wilst sitting outside our tent (no. 6) bull elephants crossed the river and walked round our tent without a care in the world! (the photo is not very good)

[Towlersonsafari]

The elephant in the room or rather dining area is that it is in the Central part of the park, which is very busy.We had not been in the central part since 1999 (Kapani) and  the first part of each drive, was always in the company of several vehicles.

Edited October 1, 2023 by Towlersonsafari
bad spelling

[Towlersonsafari]

flatdogs try to ameliorate this by not having radios in the vehicles so their guides do not talk to each other, but there were about 3 occasions when the number of vehciles made us and Jonathan uncomfortable so we moved on. the other side of the coin to the large numbers of safari vehicles was that the wildlife was very relaxed

I will not bore everyone by doing a blow by blow account of each drive but there were many splendid encounters

[Toxic]

@Towlersonsafarithank you for sharing this. I am enjoying following along, and enjoying your commentary and anecdotes very much. Your elephants in camp photo really makes them look huge! 

 

Glad the luggage story ended with a happy ever after. It's only ever happened once (🤞) to me - KLM on a three week trip to the Galapagos Islands. They were not very helpful, and it was only after I paid an additional fee to have my luggage delivered to me on a helicopter that it reached me, 2 weeks in. I had to buy a few extra clothes and of course toiletries, making sure to keep receipts of everything. Even with this, they still denied accountability and refused to refund me any of the expenses - how they expected that tiny tube of toothpaste to last for three weeks I don't know - so I took them to small claims and was reimbursed those and a bit more for the trouble (which worked out ok in the end as more than half of my trip was then paid for) but still a nightmare, and I've vowed to never fly with KLM again unless absolutely necessary.  So the moral of the story if to echo what @JimSsaid - have an extra day so you can do any shopping!! Had I left Ecuador straight for the Galapagos I would have been in a jumper and jeans for 3 weeks in 30 degree heat! 

[TonyQ]

@Towlersonsafariwhat a stressful start to your trip. BA to Johannesburg seems to have particular problems. @Tdgraveshad a flight cancelled, and when we used it recently we waited nervously but it was on time.

Good to see people stepping in to be helpful and get your luggage to you.

Otherwise (!) it looks like a very good start to your trip

[Tdgraves]

8 minutes ago, TonyQ said:

@Towlersonsafariwhat a stressful start to your trip. BA to Johannesburg seems to have particular problems. @Tdgraveshad a flight cancelled, and when we used it recently we waited nervously but it was on time.

Good to see people stepping in to be helpful and get your luggage to you.

Otherwise (!) it looks like a very good start to your trip

I think it is problems with the A380 fleet - our flights in Jan are on the dreamliner, so fingers crossed!!! At least they have started interlining with airlink now, otherwise the only seamless routes to these other African countries would be via the Middle East or Addis.

[dlo]

So glad to hear you enjoyed Flatdogs it really is a great place, probably my favourite in all Africa. 
Also as Chargers and Forest fans shouldn’t you know better than to have hope😪

Enjoying the report so feel free to keep boring us.

[Dave Williams]

17 hours ago, TonyQ said:

@Towlersonsafariwhat a stressful start to your trip. BA to Johannesburg seems to have particular problems. @Tdgraveshad a flight cancelled, and when we used it recently we waited nervously but it was on time.

Good to see people stepping in to be helpful and get your luggage to you.

Otherwise (!) it looks like a very good start to your trip

 

I wonder if one man on a binge caused all the problems ?!

 

[Whyone?]

On 10/1/2023 at 9:24 AM, Towlersonsafari said:

FLATDOGS

 

I know other safaritalkers have said good things about flatdogs and friends of ours went there pre-pandemic and ad a great time and it was a very good price, but we were still suprised at how good it was.The rooms, the food and the location all were excellent but it was the sheer friendly professionalism of all the staff that we met  that made our stay exceptional.everyone seemed to know our names( and i have trouble rememering my own name at times), and everyone seemed to be friendly-we also liked the informal nature of the dining- you could order emals whenever- giving our evening meal orders before the afternoon drive so it would be ready for us on our return. You could inter-act with other geuests just as mutch as you wanted. when you made your way to the main area  for the activities the name of your guide was set out so you knew which table to go to.Our guide was Jonathan, a very friendly, very good guide indeed. 

 

 

Like you, we thoroughly enjoyed our time at Flatdogs and wouldn't hesitate to return.  I think it makes a great 'stepping-stone' into the rest of the area.

 

We also had the pleasure of Jonathan's company and guiding experience - as you say, he is excellent, though if I have to find a fault, it is that he supports Manchester City!!!

Edited October 2, 2023 by Whyone?

[Towlersonsafari]

thank you everyone- and sorry to hear of your problems @Tdgraves and @Toxic- we are going to build in a "resting day2 I think to all our trips- when w e self-drive we had in the past rushed to the first reserve but it is tiring! And yes @Whyone?that was a grave fault indeed. Having just stayed up to past midnight to watch the chargers nearly throw away yet another big lead i suppose you are right @dlo.

we always ask the guides, scouts etc who they support- most folk seem to support Arsenal, with quite a few Chelsea and Liverpool- and strangely no forest fans- but they all laughed when we tried to convince them!

[Towlersonsafari]

It turned out we were quite unlucky as far as lions and wild dogs were concerned, as we had one sighting of the former and none of the later whilst at Flatdogs- the usual lion pride had dissapeared the day before we arrived and as we found out later from other guests, turned up a few days after we had moved on and made 2 kills of young giraffe in the area behind the camp! We did have some fine sightings however and that did include the 2 month old lion cubs above and 2 10 month old cubs with 3 adults. the adults were showing interest in some zebra but there were about 10 vehicles around them so Jonathan suggested we move a bit further and had the lion cubs  sighting with only a couple of other vehicles. The night drives turned up , civits, elephant shrews and this very confiding genet amongst others. (Taken at 3200 iso and 1/80th)

[Towlersonsafari]

we enjoyed the shrinking pools and associated water birds-spoonbills and yellow billed storks mainly

[Towlersonsafari]

And lots of elephants

[Towlersonsafari]

and elephants

[Towlersonsafari]

i have always found it difficult to take photo's of giraffes-even if they are Thornicroft giraffes- so here are my best efforts all taken whilst at Flatdogs the first photo is one of  what were 3 youngsters we saw just behind the camp- now only 1

[Towlersonsafari]

We had fine views of Crawshaws Zebra