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Kgalagadi January 2023: Clouds and cats and everything in between


Tdgraves

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I'm now two trips behind and considered not bothering with this and going straight onto the Kruger trip, but have decided to try and get it done fast. We'll see whether that happens or not, especially as I have just noticed that not all photos have uploaded to Flickr properly....Our last trip to the KTP was just before the world closed due to COVID-19, so it was time for a return. It also meant that we could visit our friends in the Cape.

 

 

We booked a flight with miles and it was the first time back on the A380 with BA as business was increasing to pre-pandemic levels. We were delayed leaving, due to a customer taking ill on the plane just after boarding and needing to be offloaded. There was quite a lot of turbulence, but I managed some decent sleep. They had not made up much time overnight though. We had almost landed (you could see the airport buildings and the ground) when the engines increased and we went around. We had flown into wake turbulence from the Emirates flight in front and we had to do another circle around Joburg, before successfully landing about 20 minutes later. The captain was the epitome of calm when he announced that he couldn't land as the instruments were transiently not functioning!!  This put us into the immigration queue behind another large flight and with the delay in leaving Heathrow, was seriously eating into our first day plan. In the end, we abandoned having lunch and doing some shopping in town before leaving and just got straight onto the road. We had a very passable late lunch in a service station and made it to our B&B well before sundown.

 

Itinerary

 

13/1       Arrive Joburg, stay at Wildebeespan B&B, Delareyville

14/1       Birding in Barberspan then drive to Browns Manor B&B, Upington

15/1       Drive to KTP, Twee Rivieren, 2 nights  

17/1       Nossob (riverfront unit) 4 nights

21/1       Kalahari tented camp (honeymoon desert tent) 3 nights

23/1      Mata Mata (riverfront unit) 2 nights (less than ideal being so close together, but was unsuccessful chasing cancellations in wilderness camps)

25/1      African Vineyard B&B, Kanoneiland, Orange River

26/1      Drive to Cape Town, stay with friends

27/1      Wine tasting and lunch in Franschhoek

28/1      Lunch in Stellenbosch. Fly home

 

Seeing our friends meant one less night in the park than we would usually get, but it had been nearly five years since we had seen them and their new house. My plans for at least a half day of birding in the Cape were all extinguished though, as they really wanted to show off the area and wine tasting and food took preference!

 

53083386869_721c34e911_k.jpg7T4A4837 by tdgraves, on Flickr

Edited by Tdgraves
typo
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~ @Tdgraves:

 

Your cheetah image above.

 

W O W !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

That's about as remarkable of an image as I've seen.

 

Thank you so much for posting it.

 

      Tom K.

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Thanks @Tom Kellie , I just picked it at random from the thumbnails of a very long list of similar shots!! I actually think the OHs were better...

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Day 1: Johannesburg to Delareyville, 13/1/23

 

We usually stock up on wine in Joburg and then get lunch to refuel before driving to our first stop, but this had to be abandoned. I have nothing really to add about the drive, apart from it was plain sailing. We had a very late lunch in Spur at a service station and I was pleasantly surprised. This had the added bonus of meaning we did not need dinner later on. The B&B is on a farm with a small garden, so I had a wander around with the camera.

 

52666166827_49ea075ee4_k.jpg7T4A1498 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

52666955619_0b7027bdad_k.jpg7T4A1512 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

52672331272_96b4b86a62_k.jpg7T4A1507 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53066060964_8b279027b3_k.jpg7T4A1503 by tdgraves, on Flickr

Edited by Tdgraves
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That really is a wonderful cheetah image! Looking forward to more!

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Day 2: Barberspan to Upington, 14/1/23

 

After setting the alarm to get up ridiculously early, it was unnecessary as the farm cockerel seemed to be crowing right outside our bathroom window for about half an hour before the alarm went off. We drove the 15km to Barberspan as the sun came up and the light was looking perfect. Unfortunately no one came to unlock the gates :angry:. Some fishermen were also waiting in vain at the leisure section. After going up and down the road a few times, the OH got frustrated and we went back to the B&B. The proprietors could only guess that the staff employed to lock and unlock the entrance gates had got lazy with COVID. I have since tried to contact the parks board to ascertain the opening hours or to see if it has been temporarily/permanently closed, but with no success. We managed one bird on the entrance road...

 

52667097495_7f6ea8726e_k.jpg7T4A1513 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

Really frustrating, given that our first visit was very overcast. After another coffee, I wandered around the garden whilst awaiting breakfast that we had purposefully made later for our birding trip!

 

52666185507_d350b55517_k.jpgD14I0407 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

52666166392_a597ccaa56_k.jpg7T4A1534 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

52667097800_3929a35b7c_k.jpg7T4A1538 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

The drive to Upington was again hassle free, although it was interesting to see what petrol stations and facilities have been upgraded and we checked in to the B&B the earliest that we ever had. Given the Joburg wine shop was bypassed, we had to go to the mall, as the Northern Cape still has quite draconian licencing laws and we wouldn't be able to buy any alcohol when we picked up our groceries the following day, as it was a Sunday. We managed to find a passable selection in Woolworths and retired back to the B&B for a bit of birding and a swim. The birding was less pleasant than usual, as there were several varieties of ants and as soon as I stopped, they would attack. DEET did nothing to repel them. Is there such a thing as ant repellent??

 

52666663166_8231187608_k.jpg7T4A1552 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

52666664036_621d5486cf_k.jpg7T4A1586 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

52667166548_08270bd3b2_k.jpg7T4A1597 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

52666167827_5b4e2f83fa_k.jpg7T4A1601 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

We had a lovely dinner, as usual at Cafe Zest. Slightly confused when following the satnav to get there though, as they have relocated and are now in the ground floor of a new hotel!

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Day 3: Upington to Twee Rivieren, 15/9/23

 

We collected our groceries with no issues and it was already very hot. By the time we got to the park, it was 44 degrees. Not ideal for unpacking a very full car :blink:. Park check in was easy, as usual. After unpacking and cooling off, we went on a short drive up the Nossob river bed. I had the 1D.

 

This goshawk was very confiding...

 

53023461878_13246a8b51_k.jpgD14I0426 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53022976091_27043b56ec_k.jpgD14I0430 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53023369875_80cbfe5860_k.jpgD14I0442 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

We then came across three cheetah resting in the shade of a fairly distant bush. This was as much action that happened while we waited. Cheetah on the first drive though, result!

 

53022402602_e743550c0c_k.jpgD14I0499 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53022979176_77f5841c53_k.jpgD14I0506 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53023370630_696618e4b2_k.jpgD14I0486 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53023464543_f80d99de9a_k.jpgD14I0491 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

A couple from the OH who was driving...

 

53023261845_3e684cc996_k.jpg7T4A1623 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53022871371_f58c32ea5f_k.jpg7T4A1702 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

And some tenants back in camp...

 

53023044894_2fa20a522e_k.jpg7T4A1708 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

Time for an early night.

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Day 4: Twee Rivieren morning drive, 16/1/23

 

It was a cooler 25 degrees as we left, rising to 35 at brunch time. We went up the Nossob as far as Melkvlei before returning to camp. I had the 5D.

 

53065293937_5d69bf997e_k.jpg7T4A1712 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53066067289_a07b9b754d_k.jpg7T4A1715 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

52707696401_79197ac100_k.jpg7T4A1718 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

52707171897_fd79582658_k.jpg7T4A1759 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

This jackal was very playful

 

53066271105_d13c001e25_k.jpg7T4A1720 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53066382118_34f99e19ea_k.jpg7T4A1726 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53066071699_6705f1f58c_k.jpg7T4A1735 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

and dug up what the other one had buried....

 

53065889011_0e5eeec470_k.jpg7T4A1742 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53065300902_34a1d6be14_k.jpg7T4A1750 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53065890621_adb235b333_k.jpg7T4A1754 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

which we think was a bit of tyre.  We then found a lioness with three cubs sleeping on the road, something that we have not seen here before (cubs, not lions asleep on the road!!).

 

53065891541_eee0fba77b_k.jpg7T4A1773 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53066077059_7ed91aa49a_k.jpg7T4A1777 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53065894861_f90392548f_k.jpg7T4A1794 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53066284100_ccb3111add_k.jpg7T4A1807 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53065901511_1c5a1be94b_k.jpg7T4A1817 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53065902341_e04190b103_k.jpg7T4A1821 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53065904696_a86a52f3a9_k.jpg7T4A1831 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53066093044_4fa492a02b_k.jpg7T4A1856 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53065915506_d10aeb7854_k.jpg7T4A1877 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53065332702_b8a56ce3b2_k.jpg7T4A1938 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53065335602_5044b7938f_k.jpg7T4A1947 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53066114344_b09efc9800_k.jpg7T4A1974 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53065345027_1843f902fe_k.jpg7T4A1997 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53066127639_46e13b50e0_k.jpg7T4A2048 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

Then it was time to move on, to let others have a view and to get to the picnic site.

 

53066127639_46e13b50e0_k.jpg7T4A2048 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53066129904_ecef44a31e_k.jpg7T4A2058 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53066442373_0d9ec336fb_k.jpg7T4A2063 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53065951226_d99650c810_k.jpg7T4A2080 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53066447808_ce40c8348b_k.jpg7T4A2091 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53066340620_a02bd944d5_k.jpg7T4A2106 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

The lions were very inactive on our way back past

 

53066341270_4758ff23cf_k.jpg7T4A2114 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

A successful morning drive!

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Some great sightings already!

It sounds like it was very hot

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offshorebirder

Well done @Tdgraves - Cheetah and Lion right out of the gate.   You and the OH both got some very nice Jackal shots.   And the opening Cheetah shot was magnifique!

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@Tdgraves   Seems like a very good start with both lion and cheetahs, the Kgalagadi never really lets you down with big cats sightings. And I guess/hope you saw a lot of cheetahs in the Mata Mata area, we did anyway when we visited in january 2022 ;) Looking forward to the next chapter. The Kgalagadi is just an amazing magical place :) 

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What a fantastic start to your trip, the opening photo is sensational @Tdgraves

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Enjoying following along @Tdgravesand as everyone else has said some great shots already and we're only on day 4!! Looking forward to reading the rest of your TR. 

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25 minutes ago, Toxic said:

Enjoying following along @Tdgravesand as everyone else has said some great shots already and we're only on day 4!! Looking forward to reading the rest of your TR. 

or day 2 if you just count the safari days…

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Day 4: Twee Rivieren evening drive

 

It was 40 degrees as we set off and this time we went up the Auob. Our first sighting was a pale chanting goshawk taking refuge in the shade of a small bush at the side of the dune road.

 

53066608650_0fabe54f4a_k.jpg7T4A2122 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53066719028_435dfaf394_k.jpg7T4A2140 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

It then hopped up onto the bush and we thought that we may see a kill, but not to be

 

53066224216_a6cdcdd294_k.jpg7T4A2147 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53066616450_8bd5df5496_k.jpg7T4A2162 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

It then decided that the shade offered by our car was better than the bush and walked straight towards us!

53066413569_135f35f820_k.jpg7T4A2171 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53066229486_fc11af620f_k.jpg7T4A2174 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53066229871_8e35b1ea08_k.jpg7T4A2175 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53065642407_6d337ab1d3_k.jpg7T4A2185 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

This lark was also hot

 

53065642872_b28c4f4e05_k.jpg7T4A2187 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

Then we got into the river bed, where we found this spotted thick-knee

 

53066234206_7d61dbdd3a_k.jpg7T4A2194 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

and finally a mammal!

53066730868_2185b6b09b_k.jpg7T4A2200 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53066236111_482519ae77_k.jpg7T4A2208 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53065646792_259a9aba1c_k.jpg7T4A2213 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

and then some Kalahari specials

 

53065648737_b51354ded7_k.jpg7T4A2219 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53066628170_1fb565c5c8_k.jpg7T4A2221 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53066429269_381f60b720_k.jpg7T4A2236 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53066431304_2e61a23662_k.jpg7T4A2274 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

and it was time to turn around and head for camp. There was a man setting up what we assume was a research hide. It was a raised container with windows (and a fridge) looking out over a waterhole. We have seen them several times in the park and assume that someone sits in them all night and records what happens and a few days later they move to a different site. Anyway, on our way back South, we saw a big cat slinking away from the waterhole and as we went past the building, the man was still pottering about, presumably he had scared the cat. Our first (and only) leopard sighting of the trip and no photographic proof :(

 

Some more wildlife on the dunes

 

53066635805_4aad66ba89_k.jpg7T4A2282 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53066743793_85e80afa0e_k.jpg7T4A2288 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53066434484_c6dd8042b1_k.jpg7T4A2292 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

and from the OH (as I was driving)

 

53023169770_8acff8a413_k.jpgD14I0944 by tdgraves, on Flickr

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Day 5: Twee Rivieren morning drive, 17/1/23

 

Warm and clear as we left camp. 26 degrees up to 36 when we returned to pack up and check out. I had the 1D again. As we were transferring to Nossob, we went up the Auob. The first sighting was on the way to collect our permit and so it was still very dark

 

53023374835_c1b6d84465_k.jpgD14I0945-3 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

In the dunes

 

53260257550_227a079336_k.jpgD14I0963 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

from the OH

 

53022300207_fb18074448_k.jpg7T4A2300 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

and then onto the river bed

 

53023271165_72da98b0aa_k.jpg7T4A2309 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53023368128_b1c92beaeb_k.jpg7T4A2316 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53260295660_ff4bfc496b_k.jpgD14I0967 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

this jackal had us do a double take wondering if it was a Cape fox

 

53258934022_96539ca761_k.jpgD14I0974 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53260295795_8cabb0fcce_k.jpgD14I0980 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53258930777_21e97fb8c1_k.jpgD14I0989 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53258925452_a13ae8ab57_k.jpgD14I1008 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53258927967_8137020fe2_k.jpgD14I1002 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53260095568_a89c6f7bca_k.jpgD14I1006 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

Time to check out

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Day 5: Transfer to Nossob

 

By the time we had packed up for the long drive, it was 38 degrees.

 

53260152489_5ceb9ced37_k.jpgD14I1019 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53258923792_927469cd0c_k.jpgD14I1025 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53260147424_cae6af3f55_k.jpgD14I1021 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53259796221_10a39781b0_k.jpgD14I1036 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53260276925_cffe45e3d6_k.jpgD14I1040 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

The highlight of the trip was a mother cheetah and a few minutes away, her two subadult cubs.

 

53260086858_6f5f8dae29_k.jpgD14I1046 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53258911517_8b3e822868_k.jpgD14I1050 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

One cub soon sought deeper shade, but the other one posed for us

 

53259779551_cb554cd80e_k.jpgD14I1082 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

the light was very harsh, so I did some experimentation

 

53260103438_47f82991e3_k.jpgD14I1115 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53260103853_745bb92819_k.jpgD14I1104 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53260073028_ee8f922b38_k.jpgD14I1131 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53259773776_0d6914ff19_k.jpgD14I1133 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

We checked in and by our room - the first new bird of the trip - an Abdim's stork

 

53259773831_06429ff3aa_k.jpgD14I1142 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

Time to unpack again.

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Day 5: Nossob evening drive, 17/1/23

 

As we had already had a long day, we just did a short drive, up North to Kwang and back, it was pretty quiet, so we watched a jackal and a Lanner hunting doves.

 

53022982601_c4efe7f95d_k.jpgD14I1186 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53022407427_7cc8ff7979_k.jpgD14I1234 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53023469393_87c31e04c2_k.jpgD14I1225 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53022407997_c841c3501e_k.jpgD14I1255 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53023376910_7e260abe10_k.jpgD14I1261 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53023156284_651500a14b_k.jpgD14I1275 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53023378660_215a71b662_k.jpgD14I1298 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53023158309_c9367b1d10_k.jpgD14I1313 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53023473408_552b597c24_k.jpgD14I1329 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53022413747_b165962f74_k.jpgD14I1483-2 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53022990906_386e1602d2_k.jpgD14I1500 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53022991471_20cf447de1_k.jpgD14I1508 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

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Really wonderful photos in that last set! Love the silhouetted doves and the hunting jackal and falcon peeking out--oh all of them are great!

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Day 6: Nossob morning drive, 18/1/23

 

It was a cool 24 degrees when we set off :P rising to a mere 34 on our return. We went North as far as Bedinkt and it was pretty quiet in terms of general game. I had the 5D again today.

 

53068930794_ffd68dcab0_k.jpg7T4A2527 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53069133355_0065a126dd_k.jpg7T4A2529 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53068739401_95de951b54_k.jpg7T4A2538 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53068931779_043ef3d349_k.jpg7T4A2556 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53068933489_40a23dcdd5_k.jpg7T4A2579 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53068158407_f1b3574744_k.jpg7T4A2582 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53068934564_eebd5bfcbf_k.jpg7T4A2584 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53068159442_3fbefefacf_k.jpg7T4A2592 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53068935704_1f6733eadb_k.jpg7T4A2598 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53068936134_0b111f8cbb_k.jpg7T4A2599 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53068744801_1adace94fd_k.jpg7T4A2613 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

This jackal was more active, hunting whatever was at the waterhole

 

53069243953_73343dffdf_k.jpg7T4A2618 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53068746906_33f7b8d9c8_k.jpg7T4A2625 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53068941739_5901bc3f8e_k.jpg7T4A2634 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53068944399_1903b46596_k.jpg7T4A2654 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53068944759_82d4d3b40d_k.jpg7T4A2663 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53069147630_bfb944568e_k.jpg7T4A2667 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53069252723_2234ce8efa_k.jpg7T4A2676 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53068172762_1761fa8100_k.jpg7T4A2694 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53068948244_81c67223ec_k.jpg7T4A2691 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53069151590_945e97d1e7_k.jpg7T4A2696 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53069255108_d8c61d2734_k.jpg7T4A2692 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53069264783_9e316df79d_k.jpg7T4A2875 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53069267123_7446c557eb_k.jpg7T4A2893 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53068185507_6287daf9fb_k.jpg7T4A2899 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53068963449_6d8abbf761_k.jpg7T4A2908 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53069168320_12a3d04448_k.jpg7T4A2928 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53069158695_d381d2e69a_k.jpg7T4A2859 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

this was as close as he got whilst we were there

 

53069159555_5266c7dc46_k.jpg7T4A2860 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

his mate, less so!

 

53068750426_8030d7e7b7_k.jpg7T4A2637 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53068943964_28181d47ce_k.jpg7T4A2647 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

These birds were all at the same hole as the jackal (Cubitjie Quap)

 

53068950059_38b6b99282_k.jpg7T4A2719 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53069257313_e125d1486f_k.jpg7T4A2732 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53069257733_db9a6db957_k.jpg7T4A2744 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53068176187_1cfc30b252_k.jpg7T4A2761 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53068953424_5b4dd232a0_k.jpg7T4A2845 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53068967484_389fb16324_k.jpg7T4A2948 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53068968909_dab5e23101_k.jpg7T4A2969 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53068777201_2e773dfd0b_k.jpg7T4A2982 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53068193587_f51b251a55_k.jpg7T4A2985 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53068781521_eb6f3b42d6_k.jpg7T4A3040 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53069176335_b402686843_k.jpg7T4A3048 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53068198607_44e715e312_k.jpg7T4A3049 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53069281803_43bca53776_k.jpg7T4A3060 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53069178295_50a5d466c2_k.jpg7T4A3066 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53069284128_b333a0943c_k.jpg7T4A3069 by tdgraves, on Flickr

 

53068788891_730c5871bf_k.jpg7T4A3098 by tdgraves, on Flickr

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