Predators of the Kwara Concession, Okavango Delta

[BonitaApplebum]

Hi all!

 

I made my first trip to Botswana and the Okavango Delta, a location that's been top of my list for years. It was a bit of a covid revenge trip, if I'm honest. I booked it nearly 18 months out because I just wanted it in the calendar! I'm sure many of you can relate. I spent hours getting educated on the various operators and concessions. If any of you have seen my other trip reports, you'll know I'm a keen photographer and this fact drives a lot of my decisions when booking a trip. Being the Delta, I knew cost was going to be a bigger factor in my decision than on previous trips. Finding the balance between a location that appealed to me and the cost of the associated camps proved a bit of a challenge. In the end I settled on the Kwara concession and Kwando Safaris. I had read good things (here and elsewhere) about the Kwara concession and of course Kwando runs all of the camps in this area. The flagship Kwara camp had recently been refurbished and so I decided to spend my time there.

 

As a photographer, I prefer to stay longer in a single camp. Certainly it limits the variety of locations I see but I find spending more time in one area allows me to get to know the local wildlife a bit better and this results in better photo opportunities. To that end, I booked 8 nights at Kwara camp. My guide was Mr. G and our tracker was KT. Spending 8 nights with the same guide/tracker allows you to really get to know them and I have nothing but great things to say about both of them. In particular, I very much enjoyed watching them utilize their extensive tracking skills to produce some wonderful sightings. In my first days there were very few people in camp and so very few eyes out on game drives. We could not rely on hearing about a great sighting on the radio and so it required quite a bit of time a tenacity to find the predators we were looking for. It would often start with a faint print in the sand that one of them would spot as we drove and from there determinations about direction, timing, and activity were made so we could decide on where to go next. I would watch Mr. G and KT weave a detailed story about what likely happened before we got there and how this informed them where to proceed to next. Often we ultimately would locate what we were looking for and I must say the experience of that was equally as special as the sighting itself. These guys really are great at what they do.

 

With regards to the camp, the "tents" themselves are large and very comfortable. You have 24 hour power owing to the large solar panel system present which made charging batteries easy. It was also great to have the large fan over the bed running at full power during the mid day heat! I would say the common areas were fine, though nothing special. I would go mid day to have a drink and read a bit and I never saw anyone else there. Most would stay in their rooms or visit the small pool area (there are two actually, one on either side of the camp). Food was served in this common area with everyone sitting at a large communal table. There were always two appetizers served and then the main course was buffet style. The food was good, not exceptional. Given the cost, I was expecting a bit better. 

 

As always, I will let the images do most of the talking. I'm happy to answer questions/expand on anything should there be any interest.

 

These first photos are of a couple of two month old cubs we were fortunate to locate. We found the mother first and sat with her until she called them out from the bush to join her.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wild dogs are always a highlight and we were lucky to find this large pack as they were just starting to get active. The interaction is so much fun to watch as they get ready for the evening hunt. Lots of noise and movement.

 

 

 

 

 

The dogs quickly and efficiently made a kill. Anyone who's witnessed one knows how frenzied and brutal they can be. The commotion got the attention of some nearby lions who rushed the scene and stole the kill. 

 

 

 

There were another group of lion cubs, these ones 3 months old, who would not give their mother a moment's rest.

 

 

 

 

For me, it's no contest, leopard's are the most beautiful of the big cats. I know how much has to often go right to see a leopard and so I try to keep my expectations measured. It took a lot of work but in the end I was able to spend lots of time with leopard.

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is a one off but a super cool sighting. It was an albino kudu!

 

 

Found the 3 month old cubs again on another day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some carmine bee eaters.

 

 

 

 

 

On my last full day I spent nearly all of it with this beautiful leopard. The morning she spent lazing up in a tree.

 

 

 

 

When we came back in the afternoon, she had relocated to a bush and was watching a nearby group of red lechwe. Eventually she began to approach them as they passed by in the marsh close by. Suddenly there was noise and splashes and the leopard was holding onto a baby red lechwe. The mother lunged to defend her baby and the leopard dropped her catch and grabbed the mother instead. The mother was able to wrestle away and we were left with a standoff as the leopard stood between her and the baby, waiting for her to come close again. She didn't and ultimately the leopard took the baby out of the water and up into a nearby tree. It was tough to watch as the lechwe wasn't dead and the leopard proceeded to torment it, seemingly to try and lure the mother. This was the determination the guide had made, at least. She would bat the lechwe around, it would cry out, and the leopard would stare into the marsh. Of course the side effect of this tactic was that it drew the attention of a lone male lion who came running, looking for an easy meal. The lion finally located the leopard in the tree and actually climbed half way up himself in pursuit. It was incredible to watch. Of course his climbing skills were no match for the leopard, who carried the kill up higher to a place the lion couldn't follow. Ultimately the lion awkwardly made his way out of the tree and sat down, unwilling to give up quite yet. When we returned the next day the lion was gone and the leopard was lounging very casually in the tree above.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you for taking the time to have a look at some of my favourite images from the trip. The Delta is a beautiful place and I really enjoyed my time there. The guiding was first class and the accommodations were well located and comfortable. I'd be happy to return.

 

Edited November 28, 2023 by BonitaApplebum

[Tom Kellie]

~ @BonitaApplebum:

 

Thank you so much for posting the images above.

 

Your Botswana visit had such a rich variety of sightings.

 

We're fortunate to see them through your lens.

 

Much appreciated!

 

         Tom K.

[madaboutcheetah]

Lovely .... was this recent ? 

[BonitaApplebum]

1 hour ago, madaboutcheetah said:

Lovely .... was this recent ? 

Yes, I was there November 1-9. Shoulder season rates started on the 1st, coincidentally 

[BonitaApplebum]

1 hour ago, Tom Kellie said:

~ @BonitaApplebum:

 

Thank you so much for posting the images above.

 

Your Botswana visit had such a rich variety of sightings.

 

We're fortunate to see them through your lens.

 

Much appreciated!

 

         Tom K.

Thank you for the kind words, Tom, it's appreciated!

[Africalover]

Thank you for sharing - high image quality 👍

[Alex The Lion]

@BonitaApplebumNice collection of images.

 

I was interested in how they are now zoning the concession. Are you permitted to drive to Tsum Tsum and the area around Splash, or are the Kwara vehicles driving their own area only?

[marg]

@BonitaApplebumThank you for sharing.  Your photos are lovely!

[BonitaApplebum]

7 hours ago, Alex The Lion said:

@BonitaApplebumNice collection of images.

 

I was interested in how they are now zoning the concession. Are you permitted to drive to Tsum Tsum and the area around Splash, or are the Kwara vehicles driving their own area only?

There didn't seem to be any restrictions on where we could go in the concession and we often crossed paths with vehicles from other camps. The only restriction I was aware of was the 3 vehicle per sighting rule. In fact, when we were closer to Splash, my guide would switch the radio channel over to communicate with their guides.

[mtanenbaum]

Your photos are gorgeous! Thanks so much for sharing. I like your idea of spending so many nights in one camp. It's always hard to decide since there are so many wonderful places to go. I'm hoping to maybe go back to Botswana when I retired in 2025, although I'm not sure what time of year! I have to economize by going off season these days (LOL). 

[janzin]

Fabulous collection! I'm actually heading to Kwando camps in exactly one week's time so very excited to see so much activity, especially leopard and of course the dogs! (I'll be at Splash, Lagoon and Lebala.)

[Alexander33]

Great photos. Thanks for sharing. I always enjoy your reports. 

[Alex The Lion]

22 hours ago, BonitaApplebum said:

There didn't seem to be any restrictions on where we could go in the concession and we often crossed paths with vehicles from other camps. The only restriction I was aware of was the 3 vehicle per sighting rule. In fact, when we were closer to Splash, my guide would switch the radio channel over to communicate with their guides.

 

@BonitaApplebumThanks, was trying to judge the situation by landscapes in your images. Not the open flood plains of the four rivers/Tsum Tsum area we always drove to.

 

The last time I was at Kwara, Splash had not opened, and you could drive all day without seeing another vehicle and have most sightings to yourself.

 

Was the 3 vehicles per sighting obvious and did you get rotated out much?

[BonitaApplebum]

23 hours ago, mtanenbaum said:

Your photos are gorgeous! Thanks so much for sharing. I like your idea of spending so many nights in one camp. It's always hard to decide since there are so many wonderful places to go. I'm hoping to maybe go back to Botswana when I retired in 2025, although I'm not sure what time of year! I have to economize by going off season these days (LOL). 

Thank you!

 

One other benefit of the long stay is many camps offer discounts once you get past 5 or 6 nights. Every little bit helps!

 

[BonitaApplebum]

5 hours ago, Alex The Lion said:

 

@BonitaApplebumThanks, was trying to judge the situation by landscapes in your images. Not the open flood plains of the four rivers/Tsum Tsum area we always drove to.

 

The last time I was at Kwara, Splash had not opened, and you could drive all day without seeing another vehicle and have most sightings to yourself.

 

Was the 3 vehicles per sighting obvious and did you get rotated out much?

 

I only recall us hitting the limit twice. Both those times we left only to return within a few minutes. Honestly, most vehicles don't stay more than 10-15 minutes at a sighting and so we never had to wait long. That said, two instances out of 8 days worth of sightings is a tiny amount. It's a really low density area and you often go many hours without seeing another vehicle.

[madaboutcheetah]

@BonitaApplebum- How many dogs were in the pack of dog that you were lucky to spend time with?  Out of curiosity - no cheetah sightings over the days you were there?  I think Special is now getting really old and using unknown routes to avoid new cheetah and I assume sightings of him will be more infrequent ...... 

[Peter Connan]

Wow, amazing photos and an amazing sighting of the Leopard/Letchwe/Lion encounter.

 

Thanks for sharing it with us.

[BonitaApplebum]

13 hours ago, madaboutcheetah said:

@BonitaApplebum- How many dogs were in the pack of dog that you were lucky to spend time with?  Out of curiosity - no cheetah sightings over the days you were there?  I think Special is now getting really old and using unknown routes to avoid new cheetah and I assume sightings of him will be more infrequent ...... 

It was a good sized pack, approximately 20 dogs. There were good cheetah sightings, though I'm not sure if it was Mr. Special. I spent a bit of time with a lazy male and I know other guests spent more time with him but it seemed he was never active in the time I was nearby so I didn't devote much time to him.

[offshorebirder]

On 11/24/2023 at 7:11 PM, BonitaApplebum said:

She would bat the lechwe around, it would cry out, and the leopard would stare into the marsh. Of course the side effect of this tactic was that it drew the attention of a lone male lion who came running, looking for an easy meal. The lion finally located the leopard in the tree and actually climbed half way up himself in pursuit. It was incredible to watch. Of course his climbing skills were no match for the leopard, who carried the kill up higher to a place the lion couldn't follow. Ultimately the lion awkwardly made his way out of the tree and sat down, unwilling to give up quite yet. When we returned the next day the lion was gone and the leopard was lounging very casually in the tree above.

 

What a wonderful behavior smorgasbord you witnessed @BonitaApplebum!

 

Thank you so much for this trip report - such rich detail and fine photos.

 

[madaboutcheetah]

8 hours ago, BonitaApplebum said:

It was a good sized pack, approximately 20 dogs. There were good cheetah sightings, though I'm not sure if it was Mr. Special. I spent a bit of time with a lazy male and I know other guests spent more time with him but it seemed he was never active in the time I was nearby so I didn't devote much time to him.

Thanks .... that s special 😂😂😂

[Hads]

Thanks for sharing your trip report and lovely photo's @BonitaApplebum, you had some amazing encounters that's for sure.

My family and I are off to Botswana in January ,6 night mobile and then 3 nights staying with Kwando at there 4Rivers camp, did you get close to that area in Kwara?

You have got me excited to get going on Safari again. 

[BonitaApplebum]

18 hours ago, Hads said:

Thanks for sharing your trip report and lovely photo's @BonitaApplebum, you had some amazing encounters that's for sure.

My family and I are off to Botswana in January ,6 night mobile and then 3 nights staying with Kwando at there 4Rivers camp, did you get close to that area in Kwara?

You have got me excited to get going on Safari again. 

I don't believe I was ever near the 4 Rivers camp area, though I could be wrong. Definitely crossed paths with people from Splash quite often. I met the helicopter pilot who was transferring people to 4 Rivers as the air strip wasn't open yet and he happened to be from Canada as well, which was super fun to discover. I get the sense 4 Rivers is a pretty good drive from Kwara camp.

 

[Hads]

Okay no worries, thanks for the feedback.

 

[Atravelynn]

Such amazing images and an albino kudu!  Thanks for posting these beauties.