Reigning cats and dogs! Hellish heat, battling bugs, balky boats: A Botswana safari in early December

[ElenaH]

wow! it is very thrilling! almost like a crime roman!

[janzin]

1 hour ago, ElenaH said:

wow! it is very thrilling! almost like a crime roman!

Haha well I try to keep people interested and coming back for more 😆

[madaboutcheetah]

11 hours ago, janzin said:

Thanks @TonyQ@ElenaH@Towlersonsafari@Kitsafari@Peter Connan! 

 

This was our departure day but I hadn't yet given up on seeing the dogs one more time. Apparently the prior afternoon they had returned to the Kwara concession!! Moz assured us that we had time to go after them on our morning safari before catching our flight out at around 11:30. We would go out at the usual 5:30 and be back for breakfast at 9:30.  We'd just have to truncate the safari a bit, but we could make it. 

 

I was definitely up for it but Alan decided to forego it and get a bit of a sleep-in. We had a long travel day ahead with no break--flight to Maun, flight to JNB, flight to JFK. So I left him sleeping and went off alone. And I took his new  Nikon Z 180-600 lens to try out

 

I need to recount one small anecdote from the prior night's dinner to fill in my narrative. A new couple had arrived; he had been on safari before but this was her first, and you could tell she had no idea what to expect. She made a point of telling us all that "she loved all the animals and wanted to see everything--but nothing killed or hurt or in pain."  Uh-oh. You can imagine what is coming

 

But not yet.

 

So I went out with Moz and our nameless tracker and we made a bee-line towards the Khwai border, which is where the dogs had crossed back over. I told them "don't bother stopping for anything else--off to the dogs!"  And sure enough, there they were!

 

Hari and his team were already there, of course

 

At first the dogs were just milling around, waking up--it was still early and a cloudy day, even a little drizzly, so the light wasn't great. I concentrated on just making some portraits.

 

This guy has seen the wars, for sure.

 

 

A handsome female.

 

 

 

 

 

They started getting more active, but not actively hunting.

 

 

That gorgeous one with the light coat.

 

 

 

Check out the spots on those legs. So beautiful.

 

 

 

 

 

Now they were really starting to run. The hunt was on...

 

 

 

 

 

 

It was about this point that Moz requested to let another couple into our vehicle as the three vehicle limit had been reached.  Oh boy, normally I'd be fine with it but it turned out to be that couple with the woman who "didn't want to see a kill." Hmmmm. Meantime it took her forever to get into our vehicle as she really didn't understand what was happening, was trying to bring her lunch and all her stuff, Moz and her guide are trying to explain that this would only be for a short while while we were at the dogs.  In my head I was shouting at her to hurry up (honestly maybe I said that out loud, I don't remember!) Eventually her and her husband got in the back (since Alan wasn't with us there was plenty of room.)

 

But because of all this in the end we missed the take-down....but maybe that was for the best...

 

(Interlude again while I go through the rest--down to about 1400 now. The gory stuff.)

 

I do believe that picture of our vehicle was taken at the end of the kill .... when  we were saying our goodbyes as you were off to Maun shortly thereafter. 

Edited February 12 by madaboutcheetah

[janzin]

7 hours ago, madaboutcheetah said:

 

I do believe that picture of our vehicle was taken at the end of the kill .... when  we were saying our goodbyes as you were off to Maun shortly thereafter. 

Yes it was, just fitting it into the narrative here 😊

[Kitsafari]

oh boy, i think I would have gotten quite rude and blurted out - hurry up or we'll miss the hunt. after all you were doing them a favour, the least they could have done was not to delay too much. 

[John M.]

3 hours ago, Kitsafari said:

oh boy, i think I would have gotten quite rude and blurted out - hurry up or we'll miss the hunt. after all you were doing them a favour, the least they could have done was not to delay too much. 

   Agree.  I think I would have had strong words, too.   I took safeguards after one particularly annoying experience:  one person tried to engage our walking guide in a debate about elephant culling.  The guide was too polite to object to the distraction. The year before, he had to shoot and kill a charging elephant, so he was very conscious of the need to be on the alert full-time. The guest was too opinionated to care.

   As I've mentioned elsewhere, my solution from then on was to organise groups of people I knew to fill camps and vehicles. It wasn't necessary in our 2002 safari because 9/11 kept camps near empty. 

  

[janzin]

12 hours ago, Kitsafari said:

oh boy, i think I would have gotten quite rude and blurted out - hurry up or we'll miss the hunt. after all you were doing them a favour, the least they could have done was not to delay too much. 

In all honesty I think I did say it. At the very least I gave her a glaring look.

 

Meantime, I am still working on the photos from the 2nd half of that morning. Hope to have everything finished by end of day today or tomorrow.

[janzin]

So...due to this delay, we did miss the take down but when we came through the bush we found the pack had taken down a large Tsessebe. Unfortunately it was still very much alive and it was truly a horrific sight, and the sounds!  I can still hear the poor beast grunting and thrashing, being eaten alive.

 

Warning, skip this post if you are squeamish!

 

Honestly the initial photos were so gruesome and brought back such emotion that it has been really difficult to go through them and I've deleted most. I took a zillion photos mainly because I was using the camera as a shield--somehow looking through the viewfinder removed me a bit from what was happening. I'm not even sure people want to see all the gore--I'll keep the worst ones to a minimum. No videos!!!

 

 

 

 

Needless to say, you can imagine what all of this was doing to our poor woman who "didn't want to see a kill."  At one point I turned around and realized she was absolutely hysterical, crying, rocking back and forth and covering her face. Thankfully our guide had radioed her guide and he came by and took her back into her original vehicle and brought her immediately back to camp (her husband stayed with us.) This all happened seamlessly, we didn't have to move and the dogs were oblivious, obviously.  I really did feel badly for her; this is not what you really want to see on your first safari and I think perhaps it was her first day as well. I remember how I felt the first time I saw an (almost) kill by some young cheetahs torturing a wildebeest calf, I cried too, but it wasn't nearly as traumatic as this. Honestly I was traumatized as an experienced safari-goer. I hope it didn't put her off safari for life!

 

Eventually the poor Tsessebe was truly dead, the dogs of course continued until there was nothing but skin and bones. These photos are a little easier to view.

 

 

 

It's incredible how completely covered in muck they get. Hard to imagine they ever get clean.

 

 

I have no idea what this odd organ is...stomach? Is there a doctor in the house?

 

 

 

 

 

Just look at those teeth.

 

 

Demented doggie?

 

 

A dog just loves his bone. A rather large one here.

 

 

 

 

These almost look like puppies.

 

 

 

It didn't take long at all to reduce the huge antelope to bone.  And soon the dogs were on the move again....

 

[janzin]

On the move...

 

 

 

We followed them to this mucky mud puddle, where they stopped for a drink and...to clean off??

 

 

I guess mud is better than blood!

 

 

Mud bathing!

 

 

 

 

At this point, we had to turn around as I needed to get back to camp for breakfast and then it would be off to the airstrip.  We left the husband with his guide (who'd taken the wife back to camp and returned) and headed back. @madaboutcheetahof course continued on with the dogs, as you will see in his report.

 

On our way back to camp I was able to say "au revoir" to the two male lions, who as usual were doing nothing...they wouldn't even look at me

 

 

 

 

We had an excellent trip, in spite of the few hitches (which were more humorous than serious, of course.)  Only disappointment was a serious lack of lion activity.  I'm not sure we'll return to Botswana soon--the Mara is still our first love--and next Africa trip just a year from now will be back to Kenya. But who knows....!

 

So that's THE END.  Thanks everyone for reading along!

Edited February 14 by janzin

[Dicky Lloyd]

I really enjoyed reading your wonderful trip report and looking at your superb photos.

 

Thanks for posting.

[John M.]

   Thanks from me, too 🙂

   How unfortunate for you to have to encounter one of the very very few people unsuited to be on safari in Africa. I suspect her husband was to blame. And if he had any concern for her welfare, he would have gone back with her. Perhaps I'm being tough, but I suspect not.

[Atdahl]

I always enjoy reading your reports Janet.  Great narrative with a slew of amazing photos.  Keep traveling so I can keep reading!!!  

 

Alan

[KaliCA]

@janzinDear Janet, it was a real treat to accompany you on your safari in Botswana. Your narrative is engaging and your photography is among the very best. 
I hope you will post TRs from Kenya in the near future.

Thank you for the wonderful entertainment!

Greetings from Katrin

[Treepol]

@janzinthanks so much for sharing your safari memories and your beautiful photos.

[Zim Girl]

What a tremendous final sighting with the dogs.

Really enjoyed this report and your photography @janzin.

 

[Hads]

Thanks @janzinfor a wonderful trip report.

I have just returned from the delta as well and can relate to your stories regarding the moths.

We also spent quality time with the wild dog pack at 4Rivers , we loved the pale one "the hunter".

[janzin]

18 hours ago, Dicky Lloyd said:

I really enjoyed reading your wonderful trip report and looking at your superb photos.

 

Thanks for posting. Thanks and congratulations on your very first post @Dicky Lloyd

 

15 hours ago, John M. said:

   Thanks from me, too 🙂

   How unfortunate for you to have to encounter one of the very very few people unsuited to be on safari in Africa. I suspect her husband was to blame. And if he had any concern for her welfare, he would have gone back with her. Perhaps I'm being tough, but I suspect not.  Well to be fair as I said it was really tough to take, even I was disturbed. Can't speak for the husband's actions though, maybe she told him to stay.

 

14 hours ago, Atdahl said:

I always enjoy reading your reports Janet.  Great narrative with a slew of amazing photos.  Keep traveling so I can keep reading!!!  

 

Alan Thanks @Atdahlno worries, I'll keep traveling as long as we are able! Next up India in a few weeks!

 

9 hours ago, KaliCA said:

@janzinDear Janet, it was a real treat to accompany you on your safari in Botswana. Your narrative is engaging and your photography is among the very best. 
I hope you will post TRs from Kenya in the near future.

Thank you for the wonderful entertainment!

Greetings from Katrin  Thanks @KaliCAI am really enjoying your trip report as well, you are some much more adventurous than us (self-driving and camping in Africa!)

 

6 hours ago, Treepol said:

@janzinthanks so much for sharing your safari memories and your beautiful photos. Thanks @Treepol

 

1 hour ago, Zim Girl said:

What a tremendous final sighting with the dogs.

Really enjoyed this report and your photography @janzin. Thanks @Zim Girl

 

 

55 minutes ago, Hads said:

Thanks @janzinfor a wonderful trip report.

I have just returned from the delta as well and can relate to your stories regarding the moths.

We also spent quality time with the wild dog pack at 4Rivers , we loved the pale one "the hunter".   Thanks @Hadshope you'll write a trip report as well! That pale dog is something else. I think that's him under all the blood in one of those shots above.

 

[michael-ibk]

Thanks Janet, great report and photos - as always. We are doing pretty much this trip in November so very interesting to see what could await us. If we are having your sightings I certainly won't be complaining. 🙂

[Alexander33]

On 2/11/2024 at 1:52 PM, janzin said:

She made a point of telling us all that "she loved all the animals and wanted to see everything--but nothing killed or hurt or in pain."  Uh-oh. You can imagine what is coming

It was about this point that Moz requested to let another couple into our vehicle as the three vehicle limit had been reached.  Oh boy, normally I'd be fine with it but it turned out to be that couple with the woman who "didn't want to see a kill." Hmmmm. Meantime it took her forever to get into our vehicle as she really didn't understand what was happening.....

Ugh, this would really have tried my patience. It’s not Disneyland. Go to a zoo. 
 

Anyway, what a conclusion to your trip. Thanks for sharing. Safe travels to India. Can’t wait for your report from that, as I’ve got to quit talking about it already and just get there!

 

[John M.]

3 hours ago, Alexander33 said:

Ugh, this would really have tried my patience. It’s not Disneyland. Go to a zoo. 
 

 

   I have to agree (with a smile). I heard enough loud voices and saw enough people who thought they were at a fancydress party, but thankfully not long enough to spoil our enjoyment of the wilderness.

[mtanenbaum]

Your trip report was fabulous--you are a great writer as well as an amazing photographer. Thanks for taking the time to post!

[Peter Connan]

An amazing trip filled and a beautiful trip report! Thanks for sharing it with us.

[Hads]

Hi @janzin, trip report will come soon. I have to finish Kruger trip first  

[JimS]

That was a really entertaining read @janzin, very evocative!

[xelas]

A lot to enjoy, and a lot to learn, from the photograhy level. One heck of a trip, and even better trip report!