50 Days Southern Africa: Self-Drive Safaris in Namibia, South Africa, Botswana, and Zimbabwe

[JayRon]

Will we be back for more safari or will we stay in Maun?

 

That is a cliffhanger, I hope you went back for more safari  

[Peter Connan]

Not just an owl, but a Pel's! Wow!

Edited February 8 by Peter Connan

[KaliCA]

@JayRonread on... soon the cliffhanger will be solved

@Peter ConnanPel's Fishing Owl? I had no idea. Thanks for identifying it. Should have tried harder for a better pic. 

Edited February 8 by KaliCA

[KaliCA]

We get up and do our chores in record time, since we have a goal to reach.  You might remember: We are on a quest for gas in Maun. At first, the barrier at the Gate looks locked, but  then I see that the lock is open and we can lift the barrier and start our drive to Maun. 

It is still low light and I’m a little worried about animals popping out of bushes. All is well and while the first part of this road is sand and corrugated, the second part is tar that starts before the village of Shorobe.  Ooh much better than we remembered. 

A bad pic, but I was so happy to be driving on a paved road again!

 

The first gas station in Maun is across the bridge and it’s a Shell station, about 85 km from South Gate. 

We left just after 6 and reached the gas station at 7:40. We fill up both tanks with 123 Liters. Now what? Do we go back or stay in Maun?

Well, it’s a resounding BACK TO SOUTH GATE! We are here to be on safari after all, so what’s a few lost hours on a bad road to get gas!

We hurry back to South Gate which we reach at 9:15. Wow! Was that a fast gas run, or what?

 

We continue to Xini Lagoon to see if if we can find more animals. We choose an open area for a breakfast spot and eat while watching zebra and tsessebees.

 

 

Soon after, Phil spots a light colored male lion drinking across the wet Chanel and I see him too. I shoot a quick video as he is heading back to the bushes and mark the spot on the GPS. We try to get closer to the lion, but we keep hitting wet and swampy areas. Finally we find a way towards the left area. We tell a GD about the location of the lion and are making his clients happy. 

When we finally get to the lion, he is snoozing behind branches, but hey, it’s a lion and it’s Phil’s lion. We stay with him for a while but he is mostly down. 

 

 

It is sad to see that this is all that's left of Xini Lagoon. But its enogh to sustain the animals there.

Edited February 8 by KaliCA

[KaliCA]

Later, we start chatting with a GD with Botswana guests from Maun. He says they saw a Leopard in the morning and we tell them in great detail where to find our lion.  Paying it forward again. 

An hour later, our paths cross again and we learn that he could not find our lion. Oh no! We offer to lead them to the exact spot. Now picture this: A game drive vehicle is following us, the lowly self-drivers. This is too funny and a first! On the way, I keep hoping that the lion is still in the same spot. "Please let him be there," I whisper. Why? Because if we can show them our lion, maybe they will show us their leopard? 

And… the lion is still there in the same spot, a little off the road, behind brush. We move on and let his guests see our lion. Then we wait on the road for them. They are so grateful and overjoyed. His clients are asking us a lot of questions, where are you from etc. After a while Phil is asking innocently, "So how far away is the leopard?” So sneaky! After the GD consults with his clients, he is all smiles and invites us to follow him and he would show us. 

Yes! It’s at least 5 km up the hill towards the main road.  He is pointing to a tree and the leopard is indeed still laying under the tree, sleeping. 

She lifts her head a few times and we get some nice shots. Wow! We payed it forward and good karma got back to us!

 

 

 

We stop under some tall trees and have lunch in the shade. And… we forget my little foldable stool there. Oh no!

 

Of course, we have to visit our lion once again and this time he is lying a little more in the open, but still snoozing. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As we discuss the day’s events, we agree that it has been well worth our while going to Maun and coming back because we had a good Safari Day at Xini Lagoon with many herbivores, a lion, a leopard and... a story to tell. 

 

Good night from South Gate number 8

 

 

 

Edited February 9 by KaliCA

[KaliCA]

Our goal today is game driving the Bodumatau Loop, a favorite destination. Our tanks are (almost) full, the stress has disappeared, and things are good in our world. 

The wildlife camera has caught a busy Honey Badger on garbage control. I woke up plenty from its loud rummaging. 

 

We leave camp shortly after 6am and it takes almost an hour to reach the turn off to the Bodumatau Loop Road. The roads are mostly bad and rutted. It’s a pretty early morning drive with some shallow water crossings, lagoons, reeds, birds, Lechwes, 2 Wattled Cranes, Kingfisher, Tsessebees, three reflecting Ellis, Hippos and just beautiful scenery the way we remember this area from the last visit. I even recognize the tree where, in 2016, we had a good leopard sighting. 

 

 

 

 

 

We are actually able to drive in 13 km before we come to a very deep water crossing. Phil puts in the front tires, but we sink very deep very quickly. Better not to risk it and do something stupid. 

We have breakfast at a spot called Hidden Lagoon with reeds, water, and nice light. 

 

Another perfect spot to build a cabin!

 

 

It’s still early and Xini Lagoon is almost on our way back, so we decide to visit there again and who know? I might even find my stool under the trees.  

It was a golden decision!

As we get down to our lunch spot from yesterday, I can’t find my stool, but just a little further, I spot a blond lion going to water. I can’t believe it, but he heads back into the same bushes as the one yesterday. Deja vu! We decide to go visit him, except, we never make it there. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 9 by KaliCA

[KaliCA]

On our right, we discover a Lechwe carcass with its head still intact, and the rest of it is mostly ribs. About 10 vultures peck on it, among them two Lapped-faced Vultures. Then they fly off as three warthogs appear and they too, start to nibble around the ribs for left-overs. This is a surprise, as we have never seen pigs on a carcass before. But they are omnivores, after all. 

 

 

 

 

Further over, I see a big grey Crocodile on land approach slowly and then it rests.

We leave this scene to go visit the lion, but as we round the corner, I spot another carcass, this time of a very dead Buffalo and a big panting lion next to it on guard duty. He looks very hot and uncomfortable. Hmmm deja vu in Hwange NP.  Wow! That’s wonderful! Two lions at Xini Lagoon! My lion heart is happy!

 

The lion gets up, walks a few steps towards us, turns his head and looks at the carcass, then looks ahead towards the shade of the trees. We can tell from his body language what is going on in his head. Guarding or shade? He decides to go for the shade so he is approaching our car and I whisper to Phil to close the window. It’s a huge animal and you just never know… But no danger after all. He veers off and heads for the trees then lies down where he can still see his kill and begins to clean himself. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

But wait! There is more...

 

 

[michael-ibk]

Great sightings. Love the Cats of course, but the Pel's is really special.

[KaliCA]

 

@michael-ibkI really had no idea that finding a Pel's Owl is special. Next time I'll pay more attention. Thank you!

 

Meanwhile, back at Xini Lagoon.... 

 

All of a sudden, I have a strong hunch that I’m missing something at the Lechwe carcass. Major FOMO is hitting me. I urge Phil to turn around and go back there to see what’s happening. Phil knows better than to argue with me about my hunches…. so he agrees and we turn around. A few seconds later, we see two huge male lions lying in the shade close to the road. I'm guessing that they are part of the group that brought down that big Buffalo. Where did they come from? Happy lion heart, again!

 

 

Of course we sit with them for a while but they are just resting, so we continue towards the Lechwe carcass, a few hundred meters on. 

 

I scan the wet area of the lagoon, and…spot two more lions! It’s a male and a female and they look like a honeymoon couple. They hiss and snarl at each other, then walk together a few feet, then slap at each other with their paws. Trouble in paradise? My lion heart is full to the brim, so we take a few pics and then finally continue the Lechwe carcass. Phil is now laughing at me and says, “Do you realize you’re leaving five lions to go look at a Croc?” He can’t  believe it and neither can I. I must be out of my mind!

 

 

 

 

 

 

But…what we find is amazing. Just as we drive up, the big grey Croc is advancing rather quickly from the left and is heading towards the smaller Croc that has the Lechwe carcass ribs in its jaw. The big grey Croc opens its jaws and bites down on the ribs from the other side. Now we watch a tug-of-war between the two Crocs as they pull the carcass this way and that way. In the back of this scene, a clueless Hippo lies half submerged in a pool of water. 

 

 

 

 

There is a stale mate but we wait to see who will win this tug-of-war. 

All of a sudden, the smaller Croc gives up, lets go of the carcass, and slips into the water. The big grey Croc then raises its head with the carcass between its teeth and veers towards the water. The smaller Croc is not done yet; it sticks its head out of the water and grabs hold of the carcass once again.  Now the two Crocs are almost jaw to jaw. After a while the small Croc lets go again. Now the big Croc realizes it has won the prize and is diving with the carcass in its jaw into the water in front of the Hippo who is rearing up and splashing. What a finale!

 

 

 

Ha! I feel pretty smug about now! My hunch was correct and this scene turned into quite the NatGeo Moment. 

Now what? Back to the lions, of course!

Edited February 10 by KaliCA

[KaliCA]

The two males are still lion' around in the shade.

However, the honeymooners have crossed our track and are fighting with each other behind some branches. They are bearing teeth at each other but nevertheless, the male keeps following his betrothed wherever she goes. 

 

 

 

The guardian lion is coming out of the bushes and starts to walk towards the Buffalo kill where a few vultures have approached. He gives chase, and the vultures fly off. When he walks towards us, he is again no more than 5 feet away from Phil’s open window. And up goes the window! We stare at each for some moments and it’s such a thrill to be face to face with a male lion.  He turns away and walks, back to the shady trees. 

 

 

 

 

 

If ever you are visiting Xini Lagoon, look for those two palms. This is where all the action happened today.

 

By now it’s passed 1 pm and we have to get going to reach Maun. I hate to leave active lions, but it’s time to say good-bye as Andrea Bocelli reminds us and my lion heart is overflowing. We are extremely happy that we have decided to come back from Maun and experienced these amazing animal encounters. Back at camp, we share the lion sighting with a German couple who pack up in a hurry and are off to find our lions. 

Still practicing "paying it forward." 

The road from South Gate to Maun is now an old acquaintance. Still bad and bumpy. 

I call Ruth from Acacia Cottage and we find her place without problems thanks to her hand-written little drawing. We meet Ruth with her Baby and her dog and we chat a while. The cottage is lovely with lots of greenery and flowers, even a pool. It’s the place where her in-laws from Britain live when they visit. Ruth and her husband own a safari business called Nalanga safaris. 

 

 

 

 

We have coffee and rest a little. For dinner, we drive over to Nando’s and have a good chicken dinner. For the first time ever, Phil is driving AT NIGHT in Africa, something we try to avoid. 

An amazing Safari Day has come to an end.  We are extremely happy that we have decided to come back to South Gate and thus had a chance to experience today's amazing animal encounters.

 

Good night from Acacia Cottage in Maun. 

 

Edited February 13 by KaliCA

[KaliCA]

Todays’s goal is to reach Khumaga campsite in the Makgadikgadi NP. 

We wake up at 5:30 am anyway, out of habit, even though we could have slept in today. I slept great in this comfy bed, but Phil not so much. 

We have breakfast in the cottage and then load all our stuff into our car, say good-bye to Ruth and then stop at three different supermarkets to buy what we need. We learn that Monday is not a good day to be shopping for produce since the supply trucks only arrive on Tuesday. 

Next, we buy a few souvenirs at Patrick’s stall, whom we recognize from the past. 

By now it’s past 10 and we head out of town and drive East towards Nata on the A3, a good road. 

At the Vet fence, we stop to disinfect our shoes, but today, there is no refrigerator check! One just never knows. We made sure not to carry red meat which is not allowed when driving East. 

We find the right turn towards Motopi and cross the dry Boteti River. I did not remember that it’s another 50 km to Khumaga from here. 

 

As we drive down to the river, we can see the ferry stuck on land. To my right there are a few puddles and cows and sheep are grazing there. There is also a new fence to demarcate the border between national park and private land. Good! Hopefully we will not see any more Donkeys and cows mixed in with Elephants and Zebra!

 

Phil drives right across the dry riverbed and up the steep and sandy bank to the park office. We check into the park, and further on also check in for camping. 

We don’t have shade on our site KK 1, but number two has shade. So we have our lunch there under a tree, since it’s very hot today. 

 

We start our first game drive and are frustrated with the deep sandy track right away. It’s the kind that rocks the car from side to side, even when driving at 5km/hr. 

First off, we see some Hippos and Ellis.

We stop at a pull-out where we have a first look into the river and are shocked! There are hundreds of Zebra and Wildebeest spread around the dusty riverbed, and some are drinking right below us in a bend where some water is left.

 

 

We drive down into the dry river and are now surrounded by all this animal life. I feel sad and depressed here because there is so little water left and what’s left is dirty and stinky. We find a few pumped waterholes where clean water is flowing into a puddle and of course the Ellis are hoging those spots by holding their trunks over the spouts and drinking that way. There are so many thirsty animals in only a small area. I’m reminding myself to be glad that there are at least pumped waterholes and that no one seems to be lacking in water. 

 

 

 

I knew in advance that the Boteti River would not be flowing. But we remember the little green Paradise in 2016, when the river was flowing, even in September. 

So from 1:30 till 5:30 we are slowly driving among the zebra herds and Phil is looking for “situationals” as he calls the different zebra poses. 

 

The wind picks up and it’s one dust storm after another and we get dust inside the car. Also, the sun loses its power and the light turns grey. 

 

We see masses of Zebra, Kudu, Impala, Ellis, Wildebeest, Fisheagle, and Crocs. 

 

 

When the zebra are done drinking, they walk up the bank and then disappear. I’m hoping that they find grass further back, because there is none around here. 

Back at camp, we start our dinner prep. Tonight, it’s pork chops, pasta from home, and green beans. It’s a good meal, but a challenge to prepare and grill because of the gusty wind. 

The wind keeps lifting the tent flaps and the metal sticks keeps popping out. So Phil parks the car with the Aluminum roof facing the wind and not the canvas and now it’s much better. 

Since we are close to a village we have 4 G coverage here. 

Good night from Khumaga campsite as we are rocking and rolling in the wind.

Edited February 11 by KaliCA

[Treepol]

Fabulous photos from the Boteti @KaliCADon't see much from this part of Botswana, so its good to have something recent.

[Peter Connan]

Wow, that's a lot of game!

[AndrewB]

We spent a few days on the Boteti River in July 2022 (mainly Botswana, 2022 trip report) and it is so different in the summer.

The pontoon ferry was high and dry but water in the river (and rising).

I was delighted by the amount of wildlife in this area, which was a surprise to us. Lion and Leopard were around but not for us.

Lovely bird life and masses of plains game, very photogenic Ellies on the river.

[JayRon]

@KaliCAYou definitely took the right decision going back to South Gate, great lion sightings (and leopard)   

 

[ElenaH]

@KaliCAso, you drove from Maun to Khumaga in apprx 3,5 hours? I plan the same route for the next September...

We will be also staying in Moremi. According to your report and a one from @Alex The Lionthe area around Xini and Black Pools is really ver productive! Unfortunately I didn't get any space in South campsite as I wanted. I also tried Xakanaxa (alerady second year ;-) without any result. Got Third Bridge 

Why is Bodumatau your favourite place? Is there a nice landscape? Can you post a picture? 

Great guiding skills, @KaliCA! Keep on! 

Did you plan your next trip already?

[KaliCA]

@Treepoland @Peter Connanthank you for your kind words!

@AndrewBI have seen the little paradise you describe twice, with a flowing river, and that’s why it was quite shocking to see the drought played out in front of my eyes. This year, it seems,  that the river won’t flow at all. 
 

@ElenaHI think Maun to Khumaga is even less than 3 hours. You know staying inside the park is $50 pppn but if you stay across the river at Boteti River camp, it’s $20 pppn plus they also have food there. Don’t bring red meat if driving East!!! Hope the river will flow again next year. 
Bodumatau has it all. Quintessential Moremi Landscape but no people. You can drive it from Third Bridge and turn off at 4th Bridge and make it an all day trip. We had very deep crossing so couldn’t make a loop. 
Black Pools were totally dry and all game had left by the time we got to South Gate. You could camp at Kazikiini Camp south of South Gate and Game Drive to Black Pools and Xini.  Not  ideal, but South Gate may have openings. As you know, they always say fully booked but then they never are. 
Planning for a third trip to Tanzania for 2025. But first, we are going to India in a few days and hopefully find some tigers and other wildlife. 

[ElenaH]

3 hours ago, KaliCA said:

I think Maun to Khumaga is even less than 3 hours. You know staying inside the park is $50 pppn but if you stay across the river at Boteti River camp, it’s $20 pppn plus they also have food there. Don’t bring red meat if driving East!!! Hope the river will flow again next year.

Thank you for information! I thought about Boteti River Camp (former Tian) but I'd like to stay inside the park to be able to shoot the enimals by sunset. If I stay outside I need to be in a hurry - to cross the river. Especially if it will flow again. But I doubt about it. I made a note about meat already 

 

3 hours ago, KaliCA said:

Bodumatau has it all. Quintessential Moremi Landscape but no people. You can drive it from Third Bridge and turn off at 4th Bridge and make it an all day trip. We had very deep crossing so couldn’t make a loop. 

It is interesting! I took the note of it! Where were you not able to cross? I guess by the forth bridge? In the other post @Alex The Lionmentioned that the forth bridge is closed.

Yes I know about Kaziikini and alerady send an anquiry. 

 

What do you like more: Tanzania or Botswana?  

I am asking because I have actually never been to Tanzania but in Africa - 17 times   I was just thinking to visit Tanzania or Kenya somewhen in the future. But Botswana is the best? or not? 

[KaliCA]

@ElenaHTanzania is very different from Botswana in many ways. For us campers, TZ is a lot harder because their toilets and showers are terrible. TZ is also very expensive with  higher entrance fees, Serengeti e.g. is $70 pppd, plus a VAT tax of 18%. Game however is amazing especially during migration time, but that's when you can have a leopard sighting with 60 cars around a tree. In the Moremi, there are few lodges with game drivers but in the Serengeti there are tons of lodges and many game drivers.

Please read my reports under Self-driving here, two from TZ and one from Kenya for more info.

[Africalover]

7 hours ago, KaliCA said:

@ElenaHTanzania is very different from Botswana in many ways. For us campers, TZ is a lot harder because their toilets and showers are terrible. TZ is also very expensive with  higher entrance fees, Serengeti e.g. is $70 pppd, plus a VAT tax of 18%. Game however is amazing especially during migration time, but that's when you can have a leopard sighting with 60 cars around a tree. In the Moremi, there are few lodges with game drivers but in the Serengeti there are tons of lodges and many game drivers.

Please read my reports under Self-driving here, two from TZ and one from Kenya for more info.

Allow me to  add my opinion to the difference’s between Botswana and Tanzania.

I have traveled extensively in both countries and despite I love Botswana I have to say that Tanzania has far better opportunities to camp wild. There are no places in Botswana you are allowed to camp totally  wild in big game area -  unless the tour operators or filmmakers - like in you put your tent in a places with no amenities or where you want. Places like Ruaha, Katavi, Selous, Ugalla and even Serengeti gives you the opportunity to camp wild. If off course you pay, especially in Serengeti, the very high cost. In Botswana it’s always designated camp sites, which is also fantastic, but limit your possibilities. And even the crowds has come to Botswana, especially Khwai, where campgrounds and lodges have exploded the last 10 years. And yes Serengeti can be crowded, but it’s possible to escape that with knowledge and special camp sites. 
Just my experience.

Edited February 13 by Africalover

[ElenaH]

7 hours ago, KaliCA said:

Please read my reports under Self-driving here, two from TZ and one from Kenya for more info.

Thank you very much, katin, I will do.

I have one more question: how long does it take to get from Third Bridge to Maun? I am just planning ad ned the information, your last experience. I assume, from Maun to South gate is apprx. 1.5-2 hrs and from South Gtae to Third Bridge is about 3 hrs? That means about 5 hrs all together?

Thank you for reply

[ElenaH]

38 minutes ago, Africalover said:

And yes Serengeti can be crowded, but it’s possible to escape that with knowledge and special camp sites. 

I didn't get you - are there special sites (designated) or you really can camp wild where you want?

 

The high cost is clear. In Mana Pools there are also exclusive campsites for about 170$ per night. In Chitake Springs we paid 300$ per night for Campsite 3B. But it is HUGE, really huge beautiful campsite! We invited our Zimbabwean friends so, there were 3 cars. we were far away from each other and there was still a lot of space and nice spots to pitch a tent.

So, I understand that some campsites can be more expensive than lodges ;-)

[Africalover]

1 minute ago, ElenaH said:

I didn't get you - are there special sites (designated) or you really can camp wild where you want?

 

The high cost is clear. In Mana Pools there are also exclusive campsites for about 170$ per night. In Chitake Springs we paid 300$ per night for Campsite 3B. But it is HUGE, really huge beautiful campsite! We invited our Zimbabwean friends so, there were 3 cars. we were far away from each other and there was still a lot of space and nice spots to pitch a tent.

So, I understand that some campsites can be more expensive than lodges ;-)

Yes, in Selous, Katavi and Ugalla you can camp where you want if you pay. Even last time  in Serengeti we camped totally wild in Bolongonja. See my trip reports. In Ruaha you have a place called Ifuguru special campsite, no ablutions. In Selous you can camp wild at lake Manze. You have more freedom in Tanzania if you pay. 

[Kitsafari]

you're so lucky - a Pel's fishing owl!

 

The amount of wildlife sightings - dogs, leopards, cheetahs and your beloved lions, and that natgeo minutes of the croc vs croc - is just amazing. They make an epic 36-day self-driving safari so worthwhile.

[KaliCA]

@ElenaHYes, 5 hrs from Third Bridge to Maun sounds about right. But maybe visit Xini and Black Pools on the way and then I would leave at first light. It would take less than 2 hrs from South gate to Maun. 

 

@AfricaloverWhen people use the term "wild camping" they mean just pull over at a spot and camp without paying a fee. I don't think this is allowed in any TZ parks as far as I know. Maybe there is a hybrid in that you pay for a special campsite, which means just permission to camp on a piece of Africa, and the Rangers will tell you more or less where to camp but not exactly? I don't understand how you payed for a spot and then camped wild in Bolognja, in N. Serengeti?

 

@Kitsafari Thank you! Now that I show and tell, I realize we really did see a lot!