Kenya an Encore

[Tulips]

In October 2033, I had the chance to return to Kenya and the price was right and the opportunity was right.  A professional phot In my city who is a friend of a friend arranged the trip.  There were several advanced hoppyist photographers who went along as well as two professionals.  
 

On my last trip in 2017, I stayed in Laikipia.  This trip took me to Amboseli and the Masai Mara.

 

I’m not going to do a day by day report, but will provide the details:

 

I flew from my hometown to London for 3 days and then on October 4, 2023 flew British Airways to Nairobi, arriving late in the evening and then was transferred to my accommodation.

 

Accommodations for the trip:

 

2 nights at the Emakoko (to have a day at Nairobi National Park)

1 night Tamarind Tree (due to proximity to Wilson for onward flight)

3 nights Kibo Safari Camp (Amboseli)

5 nights Zebra Plains River Camp (Masai Mara)

 

This was one of the best trips of my life with memories and friendships to last a lifetime.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Tulips]

On arrival in Nairobi, I was picked up and transferred to the Emakoko, where a full meal was waiting for me.  I couldn’t believe it.  It was after 10pm at night!  

One of  the reasons I chose the Emakoko was that I stayed here a night in my last trip and was treated like family.  This trip was no different.  
 

After a nights sleep, I was up early and ready to go on my first game drive.  It was cool and very rainy, but the vehicle was covered and there was a big window to stick my camera out and I had a rain sleeve, so I was good to go.

 

Equipment:  Sony A7RIII with 200 to 600 and 24 to 105

                     Panasonic G9 with 300 prime and 12 to 40

                     Tripod that converts to monopod (lightweight)

 

A lot of people don’t like Nairobi National Park for whatever reason.  I, on the other hand, love the park.  It has unique opportunities and my absolute favourite image of the trip came from this park.

 

in total, I had three games drives here.  The one that first morning, one in the late afternoon and one early the following morning.  For the middle drive, I was able to go out with Rihaz, the photographer who does many of the Emakoko’s social media photos.  He was fantastic.

 

[Tulips]

After the Emakoko, I transferred to the Tamarind Tree Hotel to meet up with the other photographers and to head out for the day to Sheldrick’s, the Giraffe Centre and a fabulous lunch at a farm to table restaurant.

 

Unfortunately, a full park fees was introduced near the end of September last year to essentially go up a road and visit Sheldricks.  This fee was in addition to the donation to Sheldrick's and was $43 USD.  The donation was 20 USD.

 

The cost is well worth it for the opportunity to visit these elephants and they had a baby black rhino, named Raha, who stole the show.

 

I adopted an elephant there so I could get the certificate and artwork.  I had a friend pass away a month earlier and got this in her name and presented it to her family as a way to honour her.  She loved animals.

 

 

We stopped for a lengthy lunch and then visited the Giraffe Centre.  It was quite crowded and I was surprised at how busy it was.  
 

 

Dinner was at the restaurant back at the hotel.  Lunch was a big meal, I was t very hungry and I had an early flight the next morning.

 

 

[Tulips]

Wilson Airport was a worry due to luggage, but our group got lucky and they didn’t weigh any of our luggage.  
 

I should not hear that I did go carryon only.  I had a soft sided roller and my Think Tank camera bag, for the two weeks.  But, even with that, my one lens was quite bulky and heavy.  

 

The flight to Ambolsei was uneventful, but what awaited at the airport was awe inspiring.  Yes, Kili was out in all her glory.  Not everyone gets the opportunity to see her due to weather and cloud cover.  
 

 

 

 

I couldn’t get over how dry it was in Amboseli and the dust!!  
 

Over the 3 days that we had here, there were several highlights.  One was going to a dry riverbed to watch some elephants walk past.  Apparently they walk along this riverbed at the same time everyday.  It was hot, hot, hot and sunny.  It was so hot, you could see the heat in some of the photos.

 

It was spectacular.  What I didn’t like as much was all the vehicles jockeying for the best position.  The guides said there were a lot more vehicles than normal there that morning.  
 

We were at the riverbed for about two hours as we had to wait for the elephants to arrive and that was probably an hour and a half of the time.

 

After, there was a game drive on the way to the lodge where we went to drop bags and have lunch.

 

 

 

 

Edited February 19 by Tulips

[Tulips]

The second highlight was on the second morning where the guides notified us that they had located Craig, the famous big tusker.  We had to pay 30USD to enter the conservancy where he was, as the lodge was outside.  

We spent an entire morning with Craig.  It was one of the most incredible experiences and one I won’t ever forget.

 

Also, I was so in awe of Craig, that I was oblivious when a lion was spotted.  Why was this a concern?  Because we were out of the vehicles.  I was so oblivious, I was the last one to get back to my vehicle.  Worse, I’m the type that goes to my vehicle, not the closest vehicle.  Whoops!  The lion disappeared though.  I never did see it.

 

Back to Craig.  The guides will let people out of the vehicles because he is so gentle.  They also know his behaviour.  Being so big, he is also gluttonous and spent a lot of time eating.

 

 

 

[Tulips]

The third highlight was the most spectacular sunset with a ver cooperative elephant.

 

 

Being in a very remote area also allows an opportunity for astrophotography if the sky is clear.  It was.

 

 

 

[Tulips]

Kibo, while not ultra high end, was more than adequate as a camp.  I will say, it wasn’t an intimate camp.  There were far more staying there than I would have liked, but it is a large camp, so I guess that is to be expected.

 

The food choice was out of this world.  It was Canadian Thanksgiving one night and the staff had turkey and made a whole turkey out of fruit.  It was amazing.  There is a huge buffet with loads to choose from and a pizza oven where the pizzas are made to order.

 

Alcohol and laundry were extra, but very reasonably priced in my opinion.

 

This was the view from inside the camp one morning.

 

 

 

[Tulips]

After three spectacular days in Amboseli, it was time to clean the camera equipment of the dust and catch a flight to the Mara.  We were able to get a direct flight rather than having to go back to Wilson, which was great.  It saved a lot of time and gave us more time for game drives.

 

For the next 5 nights we would be at the brand new Zebra Plains River Camp.  This was a step up in terms of the tents.  The buffet wasn’t as plentiful as in Amboseli, but there was still a choice for each course.  Laundry and Alcohol, including wine by the glass were included for us.  This was great as it isn’t for everyone.  My friend negotiated this arrangement as he has a good relationship with the people that run the camp.  Ruth was like a mother hen and Moses our main server was extraordinary.

 

 

 

[Tulips]

The biggest highlight from the Mara apart from the cats, was the balloon ride.  This was something I’d always wanted to do.  I’d never had the opportunity to do it and so I asked Ruth to arrange it.  It was pricey, but it included a champagne breakfast at the end.  I also got a certificate.

 

The captain was female, which was great.  I can’t tell you how peaceful it was.  It was the calmest morning.  
 

 

 

[Tulips]

There was another spectacular sunset in the Mara.  I had an eSIM from Airalo and so could FaceTime in the middle of nowhere.  The three of us in our vehicle all phoned home to share it with our loved ones.  It was another magical moment that will stay with me always.

 

 

 

There were dramatic skies as well.  There was a bit of rain we had to contend with, but it only occurred in the late afternoon and didn’t last long.  A storm did disrupt sundowners one night though.  But I love a dramatic sky.

 

 

 

 

Edited February 19 by Tulips

[Tulips]

Some other photos from the Mara.

 

 

 

 

[Tulips]

Although Zebra Plains River is a bit outside of the park, I didn’t find the drives too bad.  The guides we had were on our clock so not on a 3 hour clock, so the drives to the gate didn’t take away from the time viewing the animals.

 

It was an amazing 5 nights.  I was exhausted by the end of it, but it was worth all the early mornings.  I couldn’t have asked for a better trip.  
 

 

[KaliCA]

Glad to hear your trip was a success in many ways. You brought back some really beautiful images and thank you for sharing them with us. 
I especially like the two Cheetah and the big tusker. Amazing!

[Tom Kellie]

~ @Tulips: Terrific images!

 

Thank you so much for sharing your excellent sightings with us.

 

The color and clarity of your photographs is second to none.

 

It's lovely that you were able to have such a superb safari.

 

And the Emakoko, no less!

 

      Tom K.

[optig]

@TulipsI just love your photos. The photos of birds were particularly good.

[Treepol]

Thanks for sharing your wonderful photos @TulipsI particularly liked the  Amboseli set and the shots of Craig. 

[Dicky Lloyd]

Lovely photos, great trip report.

Thank you for sharing.

 

[SharonD]

Thank you for your report and lovely photos! 
 

Do you have thoughts on visiting Amboseli vs. Laikipia? (Trying to plan our first safari, and both look interesting).

[michael-ibk]

Beautiful photos - a great trip! 

[Tulips]

5 hours ago, SharonD said:

Thank you for your report and lovely photos! 
 

Do you have thoughts on visiting Amboseli vs. Laikipia? (Trying to plan our first safari, and both look interesting).

It depends on what you are looking for.  Amboseli is great for elephants, and views of Mount Kilimanjaro.  It is not a great destination for cats.  There are no leopards for example.  There are also no rhino.  The animals in Amboseli are very easy to spot (at least they were in October.

 

Laikipia has a mixture of everything.  There weren’t any other vehicles jockeying for position where I was as well.  Animal viewing was great.  Laikipia has wild dogs rhino and cats.

 

 

[mtanenbaum]

Your photos are amazing! Thanks so much for sharing them with all of us!

[Alexander33]

Thanks for sharing some of your memories.  Amboseli did look dry!  Hopefully, they’ve gotten some good rain since you were there. 
 

The Emakoko is a great place to stage a trip to Kenya (either at the start or the end — we prefer the start), and I agree with your sentiments regarding their hospitality.  We had a meal and wine set out for us on arrival around midnight on one trip. And Rihaz (Sidi), who was working as a relief manager and guide on our last visit there, is an extremely talented photographer and overall nice gentleman. 

[madaboutcheetah]

11 minutes ago, Alexander33 said:

Thanks for sharing some of your memories.  Amboseli did look dry!  Hopefully, they’ve gotten some good rain since you were there. 
 

The Emakoko is a great place to stage a trip to Kenya (either at the start or the end — we prefer the start), and I agree with your sentiments regarding their hospitality.  We had a meal and wine set out for us on arrival around midnight on one trip. And Rihaz (Sidi), who was working as a relief manager and guide on our last visit there, is an extremely talented photographer and overall nice gentleman. 

 

Agree!!  I had some fun conversations with Rihaz and loved Emakoko.

 

@Tulipsthanks for writing this up !!!  Love the photos - Stand outs being all the landscape ones ! 

[Ginny]

@Tulips    What wonderful photos!  I really like them all....but especially the elephant in the sunset, the beautiful blue-eyed leopard, and the flying

Secretary bird.

[Tulips]

Thanks everyone for your kind words!