The Borneo Three do Namibia - September 2023

[kittykat23uk]

We got closer to them on a late afternoon game drive provided by the lodge as they were still chilling out around the shady tree. We noticed that the big pride males had some odd looking arrows on their haunches. Our guide explained that the lions are branded at the insistence of local cattle ranchers in an effort to reduce conflict with livestock in the area. Quite how this helps is beyond my understanding as the lions are also collared.  

 

We stopped to photograph a pair of Double-banded sandgrouse and then I spotted two spotty cats relaxing in the shade, a mother and male Cheetah cub, nearly an adult really. We watched them for the remainder of the drive and then stopped off at the lions on the way back. One of them was working on the hapless warthog’s noggin. 

 

African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Double-banded sandgrouse by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Double-banded sandgrouse by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

[kittykat23uk]

We were back at the lodge around 1900 for dinner, and then out again at around 2030 on a night drive organised by the lodge. Our first sighting was a lovely African Wildcat. Then I spotted a fluffy-looking black and white animal some distance away and I immediately knew that it was the near mythical Zorilla! The little striped polecat was digging, but kindly put his head up to let us take a quick picture before it skittered off into the bush. This one's for you @Tom Kellie

 

African Wildcat by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Zorilla by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Zorilla by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

We saw four Small-spotted Genets during the drive, one even posed well for photos. We then had a lovely pair of Bat-eared Foxes. A Rufous-cheeked Nightjar was our next sighting, then some Cape Hares and a Bushveld Sengi. A White-faced Owl posed in a tree. But then we had the sighting of the night, a lovely Aardwolf in the middle of the road. It stood motionless for a few seconds and then got skittish. When it scampered off it raised all its hackles on its back and tail I guess in an attempt to look intimidating or something. It paused again briefly and looked back at us and then turned and trotted off. 

 

Small-spotted Genet by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Small-spotted Genet by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Small-spotted Genet by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Small-spotted Genet by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Bat-eared Fox by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Rufous-cheeked Nightjar by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Hare by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Bushveld Sengi - Elephantulus intufi by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

White-faced Owl by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

White-faced Owl by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Aardwolf by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Aardwolf by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Aardwolf by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Aardwolf by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Aardwolf by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Aardwolf by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA110223 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Aardwolf by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Aardwolf by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Aardwolf by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA110250 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

We saw another African wildcat on the way back to camp. It was an amazing time that we’d had in just one afternoon and night, and I really would have loved to stay here for longer, but in the morning it would be time to move on to Palmwag.   
 

Edited April 9 by kittykat23uk

[Atravelynn]

A most successful series of night drives and night time water hole viewing!  The brown hyena vs lion encounter that never quite happened is quite exciting.  The hoopoes like showing you their crests.  Your GBs for this trip's photos must be amongst your highest.  So many great shots of so many species.

Edited April 10 by Atravelynn

[Tom Kellie]

~ @kittykat23uk:

 

Many, Many Thanks!

 

The images are a most welcome confirmation of the presence of Zorillas!

 

You've made my week!

 

      Tom K.

[Zim Girl]

Great Aardwolf sighting!

[Atdahl]

Holy cow!  What a night drive!

[offshorebirder]

This excellent trip report continues - what a good run of predators hunting and night drives you had @kittykat23uk!

 

Very jealous of the Zorilla sighting and photos.

[kittykat23uk]

Thanks all, yes that was a particularly spectactual day and night! Don't expect too many more cool mammal sightings in the next section though as we are leaving the most wildlife rich areas to head down into Palmwag and the arid region of Damaraland.

[kittykat23uk]

11.10.23- Day 18 -  Etosha - Hobatere to Palmwag Lodge

 

 

A Verreaux’s Eagle Owl was at the waterhole having a drink.  The lions were still hanging around as well, so we enjoyed watching them playing as we had our breakfast. A pair Rüppell's Parrots added a new bird to the list. A pair of Congo Rope Squirrels chased each other around the trees by the small viewing platform.  We stopped for an Augur Buzzard and a Rock Hyrax on the way out. 

 

Verreaux's Eagle Owl by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Helmeted Guineafowl by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Crimson-breasted Shrike by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Crimson-breasted Shrike by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Fork-tailed Drongo by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Rüppell's parrot by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Rüppell's parrot by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Rüppell's parrot by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Congo Rope Squirrel - Funisciurus congicus by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Augur Buzzard by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Augur Buzzard by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

[kittykat23uk]

Damaraland & Palmwag Lodge

 

Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

It was then a three-hour transfer to Palmwag Lodge on the Palmwag Concession in Damaraland, where we planned to search for desert adapted Elephants and Black Rhinoceros, as well as some of the many predators that occur here. At around 550,000 hectares, the Palmwag Concession is one of the most important wildlife areas in the country and it is estimated that around 70% of the Black Rhinoceros remaining in the wild can be found here, as well as lion, leopard, cheetah and spotted hyena.

 

We arrived in time for lunch and relaxed around the lodge, enjoying a troop of Chacma Baboons whilst having a burger, followed by a dip in one of the two pools. There were some birds and other wildlife around the lodge including Cape Wagtail, Namib Rock Agamas, Rosy-faced Lovebirds, Groundscraper Thrush, White-throated Canary, Short-toed Rock-Thrush,  various weavers and starlings. Jason realised that he’d left his big spotlight behind at Hobatere and he had a bit of trouble getting hold of the lodge to see if they could find it. 

 

Cape Wagtail by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Namib Rock Agama by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Congo Rope Squirrel - Funisciurus congicus by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Congo Rope Squirrel - Funisciurus congicus by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Chacma Baboons by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Chacma Baboons by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Chacma Baboons by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Chacma Baboons by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Chacma Baboons by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Chacma Baboons by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Chacma Baboons by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Rosy-faced Lovebird by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

fork-tailed Drongo by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Starling by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Groundscraper Thrush by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Lesser Masked Weaver by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Garden Warbler by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Red-winged Starling by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Black-fronted Bulbul (African red-eyed bulbul) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Lesser Masked Weaver by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Lesser Masked Weaver by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Lesser Masked Weaver by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

White-throated Canary by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Short-toed Rock-Thrush by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

[kittykat23uk]

In the afternoon we had our first drive in the park. The dramatic scenery was quite different in comparison to anywhere else we’d been in Namibia with pink rock outcrops and gullies, stark vegetation and rocky terrain. We did encounter some Desert-adapted Elephants, including a mother and calf. Small herds of springbok, Kudu and Giraffes were seen, but not a lot else. In terms of birds, we added Rüppell's korhaan (Rüppell's Bustard), and again found Namaqua sandgrouse. Whilst enjoying snacks and sundowners overlooking the canyon we spied a few tiny waders in the pools below. 

 

Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Desert-adapted Elephant by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Desert-adapted Elephant by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Desert-adapted Elephant by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Desert-adapted Elephant by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Desert-adapted Elephant by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Springbok at Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Springbok at Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Springbok Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Springbok Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Rüppell's korhaan (Rüppell's Bustard) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Rüppell's korhaan (Rüppell's Bustard) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Namaqua sandgrouse by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Angolan Giraffe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Angolan Giraffe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Angolan Giraffe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Angolan Giraffe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Angolan Giraffe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Jens at Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag & Three-banded Plovers by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Sunset at Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

After dinner we tried spotlighting back along the main road all the way up towards the Grootberg Pass, but not a lot was seen aside from another Cape Fox.   

 

Cape Fox by Jo Dale, on Flickr

[Peter Connan]

The WOW just keeps on going!

[janzin]

Wow, great sightings especially that Aardwolf...very cool to see the raised hackles!

Edited April 12 by janzin

[kittykat23uk]

Thanks! yes the Aardwolf was a wonderful sighting! One of the many highlights of the trip!

[Towlersonsafari]

Goodness are you allowed that many sightings in one trip? @kittykat23uk

[kittykat23uk]

12.10.23- Day 19-  Palmwag Lodge

 

 

We had a full day drive in the concession. I think I would have been happier with just a half day. The tracks were very bumpy and quite uncomfortable to spend such a long time out. I might have appreciated this section more if we hadn’t just come from Etosha where we’d seen shedloads of wildlife. I know that this was meant to be more about the experience of being in the desert and certainly Jason loved this section of the trip, but for me, to be honest it was anticlimactic after the rest of the trip. It's a very different experience and I would recommend that you put it at the start of the trip if you want to come here, before Etosha. We didn’t see much more on the full day drive than we had the previous afternoon, just a few more distant elephants, some opportunities for lovely scenic shots of giraffes, African Hawk-Eagle, Red-headed Finches, more Pale-chanting Goshawks etc.

 

Angolan Giraffe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Angolan Giraffe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Angolan Giraffe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Angolan Giraffe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Angolan Giraffe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

African Hawk-Eagle by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Red-headed Finch by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Jason at Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Pale-chanting Goshawk by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag & Giraffes by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag & Angolan Giraffe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag & Angolan Giraffe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag & Gemsbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

We got back around 4pm so there was enough time to have a little wander around the lodge, a dip in the pool and a cooling cocktail. Around the lodge I found a few birds including Mountain Wheatear, Familiar chat, Southern Anteater-Chat, Bokmakierie as well as the birds we saw the previous day. 

 

 

Southern Anteater-Chat Myrmecocichla formicivora by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Southern Anteater-Chat Myrmecocichla formicivora by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Southern yellow-billed hornbill by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Pied Crow by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Familiar chat by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Mountain Wheatear by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Mountain Wheatear by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

cocktails at Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Groundscraper Thrush by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Black-chested prinia by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Helmeted Guineafowl by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Helmeted Guineafowl by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Short-toed Rock-Thrush by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Bokmakierie by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Bokmakierie by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Short-toed Rock-Thrush by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag Sunset by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Rosy-faced Lovebird by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

[kittykat23uk]

16 minutes ago, Towlersonsafari said:

Goodness are you allowed that many sightings in one trip? @kittykat23uk

 

well I may have been in deficit when we went to Sri Lanka, that might explain some key misses there... 

[kittykat23uk]

13.10.23- Day 20-  Palmwag Lodge to Cape Cross

 

Today was much the same as the previous day, as we were doing rhino tracking this morning. However, instead of going into the reserve from the close gate we’d gone through yesterday, we had quite a long drive to get to the concession. We picked up a tracker en route and he met up with another tracker in the park. The rangers tried to track them on foot and we followed in the vehicle. Whilst we quickly found tracks of rhino our guides failed to locate the animals on this occasion. The scenery was beautiful but there was scant other wildlife, other than a distant Southern Fiscal, Greater Kudu, Rock Hyrax, more Desert Elephants, some were high up on a ridge, Springbok and a Steenbok. Between losing his torch and not finding the rhinos, I think Jason was quite upset that we couldn’t stay longer. Especially as we heard from another group that they did find some rhinos in the area we were searching. If we weren't checking out to head on to Cape Cross we could have stayed longer and possibly got them, but we had to move on and we saw tons of black and a few white rhino elsewhere (especially Etosha).

 

Jens by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Searching for Rhino in Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Searching for Rhino in Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Searching for Rhino in Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Searching for Rhino in Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Searching for Rhino in Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Rhino tracks by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag & Southern Fiscal by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag & Greater Kudu by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Rock Hyrax by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Desert-adapted Elephant by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Rock Hyrax by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Desert-adapted Elephant by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Desert-adapted Elephant by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Desert-adapted Elephant by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Steenbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Desert-adapted Elephant by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag & Desert-adapted Elephant by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Palmwag & Springbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

We were meant to be departing late morning for a 319 km drive south along the Skeleton Coast to Cape Cross Seal Reserve. However, by the time we got back to Palmwag lodge it was already nearly lunchtime. A packed lunch had been arranged with Palmwag Lodge for this transfer, so we were able to get on the road promptly, but then we took a detour back up to Grootberg Lodge, which involved a rather steep drive up to the top of the escarpment, so that Jason could retrieve his torch which had kindly been delivered from Hobatere. It did offer us a chance to get a sensational view of the Klip River Valley from the Etendeka Plateau. But we didn’t leave there until nearly 2pm. 

 

Klip River Valley view from Grootberg Lodge by Jo Dale, on Flickr

[kittykat23uk]

Our drive took us down the Skeleton Coast, the views were impressive from the car and we stopped briefly, but we didn’t really have time to fully explore this area. Apparently there are a lot of wrecks along this coast. We stopped at one of them but only viewed it from the dunes before heading on, it didn’t seem all that impressive and we didn’t have any details of any other ones to look at on the way. 

 

Skeleton Coast by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Skeleton Coast by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Skeleton Coast by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Skeleton Coast by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Skeleton Coast by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Skeleton Coast by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Skeleton Coast by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

We had hoped to pay a late afternoon visit to Cape Cross Seal Reserve, which is a five-minute drive from our hotel, but we arrived too late and the gates were closed.

We checked into Cape Cross Lodge and got some dinner in the restaurant. Then we headed out for a self-guided spotlighting session. The seal reserve is a good area for Black-backed Jackal, which we saw by the hotel and Brown Hyena. We were successful in finding the latter on the night drive as it was making its way towards the seal colony. It was too far to photograph, so I just enjoyed watching it. We also found a new mammal, a Namib brush-tailed gerbil  (Setzer's hairy-footed gerbil).
 

Namib brush-tailed gerbil / Setzer's hairy-footed gerbil by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Namib brush-tailed gerbil/ Setzer's hairy-footed gerbil by Jo Dale, on Flickr

[kittykat23uk]

14.10.23- Day 21-  Cape Cross to Spitzkoppe

 

Cape Cross is home to several thousand Afro-Australian Fur Seal, or Cape Fur Seals as they are commonly known, and over 200,000 during the breeding season from November to December. They are the same species that I saw and snorkelled with in Australia. The colony is very smelly! We arrived first thing and had the colony to ourselves for half an hour or so before a bunch of bikers descended on the area. It was a grey and overcast morning, not ideal weather for photography. But we enjoyed the antics of the seals and the spectacle of such a large colony.

 

beware of brown hyenas by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Kelp Gull by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Kelp Gulls & Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Flocks of cormorants flew past along the coast. We spent about an hour with the seals and then headed for a drive along the coast where we stopped to check out a colony of terns. We spotted a pair of Jackals on arrival back at the lodge making their way along the beach. But unfortunately we didn’t find any further brown hyenas. We decided to get breakfast at the lodge before heading off to my final stop of the trip, Spitzkoppen Lodge. 

 

Great Cormorants by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Fur Seals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Sandwich Terns & Greater-crested Terns by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Tern Colony- Sandwich Terns & Greater-crested Terns by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Tern Colony Sandwich Terns & Greater-crested Terns by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Black-backed Jackal by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Black-backed Jackal by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Black-backed Jackal by Jo Dale, on Flickr

[mtanenbaum]

Wow this is such an amazing report! I am really enjoying it. Except now I want to plan a trip to Namibia...

[kittykat23uk]

Yes Namibia really delivered for us! Well it's my last stop next so this trip is sadly coming to an end for me...

[kittykat23uk]

The drive to the lodge was rather fraught as we did not manage to find anywhere to refuel (having not filled up since leaving Etosha) and we just barely made it to the lodge after driving the last 50 or so km on a red warning light! It also seemed to take ages to get to the lodge from finding Sptizkoppe as we had to drive around the koppe to the lodge entrance gate. Thankfully I was being picked up by Henry’s son to take me back to the airport from there, but Jason and Jens had to pay one of the lodge staff to pick up some fuel for them from the nearest town which was quite some distance away! 

 

The scenery here is again very different to the other parts of Namibia that we had explored. The Spitzkoppe (from German for "pointed dome") is a group of bald granite peaks or inselbergs located between Usakos and Swakopmund in the Namib desert of Namibia. The granite is more than 120 million years old and the highest outcrop rises about 1,728 metres (5,669 ft) above sea level. The peaks stand out dramatically from the flat surrounding plains. The highest peak is about 670 m (2,200 ft) above the floor of the desert below.

 

Spitzkoppe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

The lodge itself is sensitively constructed on the northern periphery of the Inselberg. Sensitivity towards wildlife and heritage was paramount in all the design stages of the development.

 

The 15 chalets and the public areas are split in two to minimise visual impact and create an easterly view (sunrise) for the Chalets and a westerly view (sunset) for the Dining area. This also prevents the western late afternoon sun heating up the Chalets. I found the chalet to be very comfortable. The buildings are linked with elevated walkways all constructed to be wheelchair friendly. They make use of buggies to transport luggage to the rooms. 

 

There is a small pool set outside the restaurant that provides for a spectacular view and is the place to go to enjoy a sundowner. It is also the home of a family of Rock Hyrax, as well as Namib Rock Agamas and Western Giant Plated Lizard. Zebra have been introduced to provide interest. In the afternoon we decided to take a tour of the area, stopping at the Bushman Paradise and Golden Snake paintings, which are apparently a shadow of their former glory, and the famous rock arch, which was more impressive. Jens bumped into someone he knew there who was leading a photo tour, so they chatted for a while. The guide we had for this trip was clearly very unwell but he tried his best to explain each of the sites to us. 

 

Namib rock agama by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Rock Hyrax by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Rock Hyrax by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Namib rock agama by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Sparrow by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Rock Hyrax by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Southern Grey-headed Sparrow by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Western Giant Plated Lizard by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Rock Hyrax by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Rock Hyrax by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Mountain Wheatear by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Spitzkoppe & Burchell's Zebras by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Spitzkoppe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Spitzkoppe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Spitzkoppe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Spitzkoppe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Golden Snake Painting by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Golden Snake Painting by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Golden Snake Painting by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Spitzkoppe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Spitzkoppe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Spitzkoppe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Spitzkoppe & Burchell's Zebra by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Spitzkoppe & Burchell's Zebra by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Spitzkoppe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Spitzkoppe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Spitzkoppe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Spitzkoppe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Spitzkoppe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

flower by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Bushman paintings by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Bushman paintings by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Bushman paintings by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Bushman paintings by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Bushman paintings by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Spitzkoppe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Spitzkoppe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Spitzkoppe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Spitzkoppe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Spitzkoppe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Famous Rock Arch by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Famous Rock Arch by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Spitzkoppe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Me at the famous rock arch by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Me at the famous rock arch by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Spitzkoppe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Spitzkoppe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Spitzkoppe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

We returned to the lodge for dinner and enjoyed the view of the sunset. After dark we went spotlighting on foot around the grounds of the lodge, finding Spring Hares, a Cape Fox a Western Rock Sengi and Jason also had an owl of some kind- I didn’t get a good view of it.

 

Sunset from Spitzkoppen Lodge by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Sunset from Spitzkoppen Lodge by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Sunset from Spitzkoppen Lodge by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Springhare by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Springhare by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Western Rock Sengi - Elephantulus rupestris by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Western Rock Sengi - Elephantulus rupestris by Jo Dale, on Flickr

[AndrewB]

We camped at Sptizcoppe in 2008 and visited the paintings. What a difference! Here is a shot of the Golden Snake from 2008.

 

[kittykat23uk]

Ah yeah @AndrewBthey have definitely degraded since then!