2019 - First Safari Ever - Kwando Camps

[Scooter]

Researched forever.    Tried to analyze just what I wanted from the trip.     Figured it out,  and booked 9 nights at 3 Kwando camps late November-early December 2019.    It was the year,  both my boyfriend and I turned 50,   and it just seemed like such an epic-once-in-a-lifetime-let's-do-it-adventure.   (little did I know of the massive hook that was about to be set).

 

(3) nights TauPan

(3) nights Kwara (newly re-opened)

(3) nights Lebala

 

My oldest son was in University studying journalism.  (which has quite a photography component)     So he kept jibber-jabbering about aperture,  and editing,   and shutter speed,  and metering,   and focus,  and focal length and ON and ON!!    But once my own trip was booked,   I started to pay attention.     And purchased my first camera,   and had a ready-made instructor living with me.    So I was a complete neophyte for this first trip.    I'd had maybe 2 trips to our local zoo to practice.   And some YouTube.   That's it.

 

Calgary-Ams-Joberg.      Overnight Intercontinental  airport.         Joberg-Maun.         Little plane.        TauPan.          

 

Can we sleep yet?    Nope!    "Here! Sign these forms!  and Tea is in 15 mins".     (In retrospect,  more time is needed to adjust to such a massive time change).     

 

Very first animal??    Giraffe.      How amazing!    I couldn't believe we were watching one from our deck as we rushed to get into clothing for our first game drive (and it was 44 degrees).    So off to drive to the waterhole to see them.     And then,   we heard the roar of a lion.     Oh My Goodness!!    I had never heard such a reverberation in my chest!    He was close.....and we took off to find him.     My very first night.....seeing,  videoing,  feeling,   watching a male lion roar - just mere metres from me.    Sundowners.   Singing to go to dinner.    What a crazy first day!!   Outdoor shower feels great.    As does bed!!!

 

And somewhere - in the fog of sleep - and not remembering where you are - you are called to consciousness.   By lions.    Close.    Crazy close.    Heart-stopping roars.     And morning would find prints behind your "chalet".        Night 1,   Night 2,   and Night 3 would have us wakened with lions.    Within camp.    We had wanted to do the "sleep-out".   (the plan was re-thought)

[madaboutcheetah]

@Scooter- Wow ..... That was quick!!!  First of all, Thank you for writing this up!!  so ......  Look forward to the rest of the report/s and what a start!!! Love the Kalahari sunrise.

[wilddog]

Wonderful, I can feel your excitment.   The first lion, sights and sounds you will never forget.

 

The perfect 50th Birthday present

Edited May 18 by wilddog

[AndrewB]

Thanks @Scooter- looking forward to this.

I have wanted to go into the CKGR for years and not made it.

And that first wild Lion roar! A lifetime memory. 1992 for me, in the Timbavati, made a fool of myself at Sundowners by squeaking and jumping into the truck to be told it was at least a kilometre away. In my head it was just behind that bush, that one, right there!!

[JimS]

Stirring stuff!

[Scooter]

Me:   "Something was rustling in the leaves and bushes behind my chalet last night and left massive footprints"

 

That would be the only elephant,   Vasco.   He is a cranky bull elephant.    Give him distance.

 

"you have elephants in the CKGR?????"

 

Just the one.       But another bull came in the other day.      And was struck by lightning on his first day here.

 

Me:   " Riiiiiggghht!!   lolololol".    

 

No,   really.     Let us go check out the carcass .

 

This whole story was in fact true!   We ran into both the private guide,  and the guests who were witness to it later at Kwara Camp.    They said.....they were watching this new bull in the area,  and contemplating how He,  and Mr Vasco might get along,   when all of a sudden.......ZAPP!!!!      He started smoking,  and keeled over.     They thought at first,   that he might have just been stunned......but,  no.   

 

Now.....about this time,   I am shaking my head.    I had done quite a bit of research,   and nowhere,  anywhere,    had I found a trip report of any such thing.    It seemed so Over-the-top.      I really thought they were "having a bit of fun" with me.    

 

But the carcass was anything but "a bit of fun".    It was downright funky.    4 days in the Kalahari sun - a bit "gooey" it was.   

 

We eventually got a sight of Vasco.   (rascal at night who was attracted to the fact that I took nighttime outdoor showers).   My first ellie,   but certainly not at close distance.     Again,  the guides warned me,   that if he came past chalet#1,   that I was to stay inside.    

 

I have to confess,   that at the time,   I was wishing the minutes away for the Kalahari portion.     I hadn't seen enough elephants yet.    I was SO looking forward to greater animal densities.  (that I knew were coming at the next camp).     Yet.....after the trip,     the desert portion was SO compelling.    The landscape.   The rugged feel.    The sounds,   the smells.    Being able to see the sun rise,   and the sun set from the same location.    

 

We voted to do  a "Bushman walk" by overwhelming majority.    Our tracker,   PK led this ........ but we were delayed by some time,   because the lions that we had been hearing with frequency,   were right where we were supposed to do our informative walk.    But all was good.    The lions were not active,  and we were able to get our "talk" in.    And I still have all my fingers and toes.

 

I  just loved TauPan - OP and Florence were an amazing management team.    Our guide Jakes,  and tracker PK found us those insomniac-inducing lions on Every.  Single.   Game-drive.

[Scooter]

And on with the show......     Kwara Camp.     My very first zebra - from the air.    SO green.    SO lush compared with CKGR.   

 

Oohh!!    can we stop to take a pic?     "it's an im-pa-la??      How about now??     "it's just a wart-hog??"      Listen.....we'll never make it to camp in time for lunch if we stop for everything.          I couldn't believe the density compared with the desert.    Around every corner it seemed,   there was something new I hadn't seen.

 

I actually have no jaw-dropping sightings,   or even funny stories from here.    I just have solid numbers of game.       Oh wait!!    Maybe one story:

 

"The Boss shows up tomorrow".          Me:   Who??

"The Big Boss - with a bunch of tourism people.    Her name is Sue".          Me:   Whatever,   Ok

 

BF and I FINALLY get an amazing night's sleep!!    (first time on the continent!).   I'm not sure if it's because of the recent rains,   or the design of the ventilation in the tents,    or the absence of lions in camp.......but OH MAN it was good to sleep a whole night through!!    The beds were divine.    The temps,  oh so much more moderate.   It felt SO luxurious.

BF had a nap mid-day - and I set out with my camera.    In 2019,   it was a drought year,   and the lagoon out front of Kwara,   was not a lagoon,  but rather a small mud-hole.    But this day,   there was an elephant.    One who saw me.    And seemed calm.   (And remember......I have only seen 2 elephants.    One dead.   And one cranky one I was to avoid at all costs).         The elle zig-zagged back and forth.   And back and forth,   slowly.     The time stamps on the photos I took,  tell the story of a half-hour approach.    And I was thrilled!     Isn't this awesome?   This elephant MUST be friendly - it has seen me and made eye contact,   and is slowly approaching me!!   I must be the elephant whisperer,  even with zero experience.     

 

[John M.]

20 hours ago, wilddog said:

Wonderful, I can feel your excitment.

   Me too.  Love your @Scooterway with words.

[Scooter]

So.......after a chat with Charles re: the elephant in camp,   I came to understand that I was FAR too close on foot (I had no idea I should have been scared).   I really should have gone to get Charles - but at that time,   I had NO idea where any staff was,   or where the office even was.    Honestly,   this is one area Kwando could do a bit better.   But I got a lesson on elephant behaviour,  and "fake eating".   

 

The following day,   (now that we are all rested) bf & I decide to have a game of backgammon in the common area at break time,  rather than time in our room.     The MOST intense thunderstorm blew in!   The winds had the rain blowing in sideways - I had to place my camera at the very far back underneath the sofa(it still managed to get wet).   This must have been the first rain the new re-build had seen,   as when we were trying to unroll the plastics,   they were rolled backward,   ties were not aligned,  etc.     Everyone was scrambling,   and we jumped in to help.       Right in those moments,   a completely wet,  and disheveled group arrived with their duffels in black bin bags,  but so very happy to be on solid ground,  and no longer kite-surfing in a wee light plane.    

I felt so badly for Charles.  Not one bit  of him was dry.  He was literally as wet as if he'd jumped into the pool with all his clothing on.  Standing stalwartly,  and somehow still elegantly, to greet Sue, and all of the tourism insider guests.   I'm fairly certain, this wasn't the "Grand Opening" moment they had planned for.    ( I won backgammon.)

 

Kwara concession was burning.    All around us.    Driving home at evenings,   you could see the root systems of trees still glowing embers in the night.    Some areas saw new fresh green sprigs of grass growing through blackened fields.     This was the scene when we saw a large herd of zebras running and kicking up ash.    Still to date,  one of my favourite photos.

[offshorebirder]

What an awesome first safari!   Thanks for posting this trip report @Scooter

[Scooter]

[Scooter]

Lebala Camp.       "What IS it with lions in this country?????"    Lions.   Lions everywhere.       Big pride,  with Stryker,   Scarface,   and dominant males Old Gunn and Sebastian.   20 lions in total.    With wee cubs not included in that number.        My 50th birthday.     THE most precious gift ever.......following a heavily milk-laden lioness to her young cubs.     I cried.      She so softly called to them - and they bound out of the bushes like "Jack-in-the-box".     To watch the cubs nurse,   felt just so surreal.    I  couldn't believe what I was able to be present for and witness.  A mere km away,   we stopped for the latest, darkest sundowner ever (Chug! And back in the truck!)    Just standing,   and turning in a circle.    And knowing everything you could see is for the wildlife.  Totally blown away,   by the wildness of it all.   Again with the tears.  Happy Birthday Me.

Edited May 20 by Scooter

[John M.]

4 hours ago, Scooter said:

Lebala Camp.       "What IS it with lions in this country?????"    Lions.   Lions everywhere. 

   Yes, great lion country. There have been "down" years, but your sentiments echo ours from 20+ years ago in neighbouring Selinda.

[madaboutcheetah]

Great updates, @Scooter- Lovely to see Johnson and Mike on the boat, of course always a delight to see Gunn and Sebastian!!! What a way to celebrate your 50th ....... You say this was NOv 2019?  I think i might have bumped into Sue and her travel agents when I was in Selinda camp at that time (on the boundary with Lebala) ....

 

Will miss Charles as he moves to Maun and their head office in charge of other responsibilities .... 

Edited May 21 by madaboutcheetah

[Peter Connan]

What a great trip report!

And for a first-timer, you did a magnificent job with the camera too!

I must wonder how PK got his name though. I hope for his sake I am wrong and those are just his initials and not a nickname.

[Scooter]

@madaboutcheetahthere was some kind of tourism conference happening in Kasane right at the end of November - so I am sure everyone got to tour many places.    I quite often think I am in the wrong industry lol

And I will absolutely miss Charles!!    Oh my goodness!    (I mean,   good for him!  He deserves every accolade)  (but sad for me).    He has been an amazing host and manager for my stays at Kwara.   

I am set to visit Lagoon this fall,  and hoping to run into Johnson.    I did run into Mike again(twice) at Lebala.    To have the both of them for that evening motorboat cruise was just amazing.        And Sebastian & OldGunn!!    (I returned to Lebala to find out what happened to them.....just loved the dynamics of the pride).     Last I heard,   they were pushed down South,   Selinda direction.    They were still well-fed,   but definitely not dominant.    More keeping to themselves to survive.     Was sad to hear - but that's nature.    (that last update was Feb'23 - and I have no idea from that time)

 

 @Peter ConnanWow,  thank you!    This  first trip,   I was getting used to the camera.    Finding out just how hard it is to photograph a subject in the shade when you are in sun,   and how hard it is when your subject is in the sun, and you are in the shade,  AND  how hard it is to toggle between those two scenarios when you have subjects on each side of the vehicle.        I now,   also am far less concerned with the tight shots.     Difficult,  when on your first safari,   and your camera can perfectly focus in on an elephant eyelash.    But my photos now,   are much wider,   and showing more context.   More story.    It's a learning journey.

PK's name is definitely an easier version of "the name his mother gave him" as he put it.    He did tell me when I asked.     But I answered,    "PK it is!!!"  

 

 

[madaboutcheetah]

@Scooter….. they’ve been pushed out of Selinda also.  I think they have a coalition of 5 males there that’s taken over.   That’s what my tracker in lebala mentioned (kb) 

[Scooter]

@madaboutcheetahI am wondering (hoping?) that it might be them that have been pushed all the way down to the Kwara concession.   I'm set to visit 4 Rivers this green season coming up,  and that would be a real treat to see them again.

 

[Scooter]

It is the night before the final morning in Botswana.    Sitting around the camp fire,  reflecting on everything we've seen.  Felt.    Heard.      The only thing really missing,  was leopard.     We did see the "tail-end" of one as he disappeared into the tall grasses at Lebala - but only for a fleeting moment.   (Just long enough to register it was a male).   Is that considered a sighting??    Most other folks at the camp-fire,   said,  "yes".    I said no,   and cited that as enough reason to return.

Sad to be retiring for the night,  and packing up best we could for the morning.    Our outgoing flight was to be 9:15,   so at least one more sunrise game-drive.    But what an adventure it's been.       Sleep settles in.

 

And then a massive crack of thunder at 2am!   A lightning show like I've never seen!    It rumbles on by,  and gets more and more distant.          And then..... you guessed it.   Lions.    Roaring.    Now it's 4am,    and we have quite the travel day ahead of us.      Sleep would not come again.      We lie there,   and listen to footsteps right outside our tent.    Was that human?   I hear twigs crack - usually cats are quieter than that.    No flashlight beam though.    We hold hands and hold breath in the dark.

 

Breakfast is VERY quick this am.    The pride is right out front.    I can easily see the two males with their dark manes with the naked eye.    But the binos reveal another 15 females in the grass.     You know it's going to be a good game drive when the tracker STARTS the day seated IN the truck.

 

They are on the move.     Like I've not seen all safari.     Rain is invigorating.    Cooling.    And they're hungry,  and on the hunt.    

[Scooter]

I'm just loving this final send-off!!     Lions actually awake!!   And climbing trees!   

[Scooter]

We lose them.      (How can you lose 20 lions??)- Easily in that tall grass.     Luckily there are a couple of trucks - and we are all tracking.    (another positive of an overnight rain - fresh tracks).    The radio call comes - we've got them,  and they've targeted 3 buffalo bulls.

[Scooter]

[madaboutcheetah]

Amazing !!!!! @Scooter- what a Lebala send off for you!!! 

 

Hmmmm - I think I first saw Gunn and Sebastian approx 2014 and they were already in their prime.  So I highly doubt they are still around ....  Guides seem to think their Sons went all the way to Kwara and established between there and Khwai (they were sub adults of the bonga pride in 2017) ..... but, I don't know if they can be sure of this!! But, it's a feel good story for sure - so, let's go with it

Edited May 27 by madaboutcheetah

[Scooter]

We chose to leave the sighting when Sebastian left to get a drink at the river.    We followed him,  and then continued on to the airstrip.    Funny to see him be quite timid approaching the water,  watching for crocs - when we just watched him be the super-predator.     The Hunter becomes the Hunted.

 

4 hours later,   we are sat in the Joberg airport.   Back in "civilization".    Watching  people come and go.     Shaking our heads,   that we had just come from feeling like we had been dropped into a DavidA documentary.    

 

Hook firmly set.

[Peter Connan]

Wow, what a trip!

 

If it makes you feel any better, your leopard sighting exactly mirrors all three mine before the age of about 20. Keep in mind that I had been going to an area pretty close to the reserve with what is believed to be the highest leopard populations anywhere at least annually and usually four or five times a year.

 

Leopards that don't want to be seen, aren't. Simple as that.