Zambia: August 2010 Safari holiday

[egilio]

Very nice and extensive report!

Hi ZaminOz, the collared lioness was one of Nsefu pride. They're usually on the Nsefu side of the river but do occasionally cross. Not as frequently as other prides though, but that might have to do with the strong pride of lions, as you have seen, on the Kaingo/Mchenja side.

Slit (the mature male with the cut nose) is getting old these days, 2 years ago he still had all his canines. Not long after you saw him he has been pushed out of the pride by a young male who grew up in a neighbouring pride. Slit now actually holds tenure over the pride is successors grew up in and there are 3 cubs there now.

i've taken some of the pictures from the Mwamba pride(s) to add to our survival database if that's ok?

Edited April 20, 2011 by egilio

[ZaminOz]

Very nice and extensive report!

Thanks!

the collared lioness was one of Nsefu pride. They're usually on the Nsefu side of the river but do occasionally cross. Not as frequently as other prides though, but that might have to do with the strong pride of lions, as you have seen, on the Kaingo/Mchenja side.

That would make sense as it was just across the river from the Nsefu sector.

Slit (the mature male with the cut nose) is getting old these days, 2 years ago he still had all his canines. Not long after you saw him he has been pushed out of the pride by a young male who grew up in a neighbouring pride. Slit now actually holds tenure over the pride is successors grew up in and there are 3 cubs there now.

Thanks for the info/update. I had read somewhere (Maybe on BCC or NCS website) that this was his name. But I didn't get out of the landcruiser to formally introduce myself

i've taken some of the pictures from the Mwamba pride(s) to add to our survival database if that's ok?

Sure! For what they are worth... A bit soft for much detail.

Edited April 20, 2011 by ZaminOz

[ZaminOz]

Thank you, Zaminoz.

 

Your observations match what I have been told and my limited personal experience: Thornicroft's giraffes are much more common in the central and southern part of SLNP. They are scarcer in the Nsefu Sector, and practically absent in North Luangwa.

 

This is quite the opposite of what happens with Cookson's wildebeest, which are more common the morth north you go (and in fact are plentiful in North Luangwa).

Yes, that seems to be the case; you do see more Thornicroft's giraffe the further south that you go in the park. I am not sure why it is though.

That said we did see some in the Mchenja/Kaingo/Mwamba/Lion Camp areas, but not many.

I intend to ask Phil Berry why he thinks that is when I visit Kuyenda in August this year (assuming he is in camp when we are there). He is a bit of a guru on giraffe.

[Shreyas]

Great report, ZaminOz! Glad to see a good report on a place that I desperately want to visit myself.

 

Have always read about the Leopards of South Luangwa, ... super jealous of your close encounters with them

[Sangeeta]

Wonderful stuff, ZaminOz. Sightings of Master Z are quite as interesting as your other pictures Learning lots from this one since my Zambia knowledge is woefully limited. Thanks.

 

I have to say, the more I read these reports, the more I'm inclined to think that any safari destination, using any type of lodging and at any season is so worth it.

[twaffle]

Zam, well worth waiting (such a long time) for!

 

What a wonderful trip although I apologise for those lazy cousins of mine. It must have been hot!

 

I always laugh at little boys and their fascination with poo, it seems to be universal.

 

A really nice selection of photos to illustrate your trip, I really like the elephant tossing its head around and the croc through the dry branches.

 

So in your mind, was it a good time of year to travel? Not too hot?

[ZaminOz]

Great report, ZaminOz! Glad to see a good report on a place that I desperately want to visit myself.

 

Have always read about the Leopards of South Luangwa, ... super jealous of your close encounters with them

Thank you Shreyas

If you are there enough days you are almost guaranteed leopard sightings in South Luangwa.

[ZaminOz]

Wonderful stuff, ZaminOz. Sightings of Master Z are quite as interesting as your other pictures Learning lots from this one since my Zambia knowledge is woefully limited. Thanks.

 

I have to say, the more I read these reports, the more I'm inclined to think that any safari destination, using any type of lodging and at any season is so worth it.

Thanks Sangeeta

[madaboutcheetah]

Thanks for your report, Zaminoz. A fantastic trip!!!

[ZaminOz]

Zam, well worth waiting (such a long time) for!

 

yeah yeah

 

What a wonderful trip although I apologise for those lazy cousins of mine. It must have been hot!

 

Ok just don't let it happen again.

 

I always laugh at little boys and their fascination with poo, it seems to be universal.

Indeed... he did like watching the animals too, but boys will be fascinated by the oddest of things.

 

A really nice selection of photos to illustrate your trip, I really like the elephant tossing its head around and the croc through the dry branches.

Thanks

 

So in your mind, was it a good time of year to travel? Not too hot?

August is the perfect time of year to visit.

The bush is getting very dry so game is starting to concentrate at the river and bigger remaining ox-bow lagoons. But it is not too hot at all - in fact it was a very pleasant average of 27 - 30 degrees C. And not too cold in the evenings/early mornings with only a fleece jumper required (in July it can be quite a bit colder when the sun is not up).

However from a photographic point of view the light can be a bit of a challenge at this time of year. With a lot of grass fires (natural and deliberate burn offs) in the GMAs around the valley, you will often get a bit of a smoky inversion layer, which I find can make the light a little harsh. As a result I found that a lot of my photos were coming out a little over exposed - but then I am a bit of a dunce with that area of photography - and I was struggling to get the compensation right. You do however get a nice golden light around sunset as a result of the smoke and dust. The other thing of course in open vehicles; is the fine dust cloud that you create when driving. So when you do stop to photograph something you have to wait a few seconds for the dust to settle before you get your camera out of its dust protector/bag (otherwise you will be cleaning it every evening)... that means that some photo ops are missed because some creatures it seems loved to taunt me by standing in a perfect pose until the dust was just settling... before bolting!

[ZaminOz]

Thanks for your report, Zaminoz. A fantastic trip!!!

Thanks Hari

[twaffle]

Thanks for the update on travelling conditions. I fully intend to explore Zambia when the children have left school and I have some extra money (or is that being hopeful!). I think it needs longer than the amount of time I can normally spend and I want to see so many places there.

[Sverker]

Some giraffes at last - good pics, you just didn´t add them in your first posts ...

 

Wondering about having lions in the shade of the vehicle: of course one should move slowly in the car and not shouting - but still, how safe is that? Here in Sweden a lot of people are really scared of wolfes, which I consider not dangerous. I have had lions right outside the car, but then it was a minibus with "lift-up" roof, so we were feeling quite safe. On the other hand I recently saw pics of a lion in the Kalahari attacking a car.

 

So, what do the guides say about these close encounters?

[egilio]

If lions would habitually getting into the cars then there wouldn't be lions anymore...

I've seen pictures from a lion attacking a Wilderness (closed) vehicle in Namibia though.

 

Some lions, especially young ones, like the one in the picture, sometimes get a little close for comfort. I actually had a youngster of the same pride chewing the tyre of a car.

 

If somebody would stand up in the car, and stand out as a person, those lions (the lions in the Luangwa Valley) would most likely snarl/growl and then run off as they're scared of people, just like wolves!

 

I know in a zoo in Holland they used to give the newbies a bucket with meat to go and feed the wolves. They would just open the door and send the newbie into the enclosure with the meat. Every newbie would shit their pants, but the fact was that the wolves were even more scared and always retreated to the furthest side of the enclosure as long as somebody was in there with them.

[ZaminOz]

Sverker,

 

The giraffes in the photos were from around Chindeni & Kapamba ... much further south than the first camp (Mchenja).

 

Re lions and open vehicles. I am not aware of a lion attack on a nopen vehicle in Luangwa (or anywhere else in Zambia) ever. The guides do make sure that you always stay seated around lions and do not make sudden movements or loud noises. The theory is that lions only see the vehicle and the pepple as a blob and do not consider it much of a threat. However if an individual stands up and presents the outline of a human, lions recognise the human and as egilio says usually run off or let you know in no uncertain terms that you have outstayed your welcome. Also a human standing up makes him/her self a target for a lion to 'lock on to' should it decide to attack.

The guides are experienced enough and watch the lions' body language for any signs that they might be getting agitated by the vehicle's presence. I remember once in the Lower Zambezi - we were quitely watching a pride with cubs and Grant Cummings (the guide) felt that the body language of one of the females started to indicate that she might charge. So he reversed to a safer distance and then decided to leave the pride to themselves. But that is the only time that I recall lions ever being annoyed by our vehicle in Zambia. That said... your heart DOES beat at a faster rate, especially when a lion 2 meters away is fixing its gaze directly into your eyes!

 

I have also seen the photos of the lion charging the closed vehicle in Namibia, I recall that the lion hit the vehicle exactly below where one of the passengers was standing up in the back.

[Game Warden]

That series of images from Namibia is on Safaritalk somewhere, I'll dig up the link...

[PT123]

Thank you Zaminoz for a great report. It looks like you and your family had a terrific time. I don’t know a lot about Zambia so I particularly appreciated the balanced detail in your report (general atmosphere in the parks, game viewing frequency, number of other vehicles and thoughts on the camps, etc.) and of course, the fantastic pictures. It seems that a trip to Zambia would be worth it just for the Leopard sightings!

 

I think that Sangeeta said it best –

 

“…the more I read these reports, the more I'm inclined to think that any safari destination, using any type of lodging and at any season is so worth it.”

 

 

Cheers,

 

PT123

[ZaminOz]

Thanks PT123

[Bugs]

Good report Zaminoz - Zambia must happen for us one day, and I will be sure to refer to this report when I do my planning.

[Atravelynn]

How wonderful you could travel with Master ZaminOz. When he completes his real disertation on scatology some day, earning a PhD, you can take credit for launching his interest. Some adorable photos of him.

 

You did a great job of capturing a lot of action from the jumping impala and puku to the swiftly moving elephant parade to the storks just above the tree.

 

The expression on those people's faces when the lions took refuge in their vehicle's shade is wonderful.

 

You may have been thwarted by your young Dr. Poop in getting a few daylight leopard shots, but you saw a lot at night!

 

I think the rule for reports is the same as for thank you notes from the wedding--you have a year to get them out. You made it with time to spare. Thanks for sharing some great locations in Zambia.

Edited May 7, 2011 by Atravelynn

[ZaminOz]

Thanks Lynn - we had a great time. My friends (and son) who were all first timers, constantly talk about that holiday - and of returning for more!

[twaffle]

Thanks Lynn - we had a great time. My friends (and son) who were all first timers, constantly talk about that holiday - and of returning for more!

 

My children still bemoan the fact that I can go back to Africa and can't afford to take them. I say "pay your own way"!! I mean, I introduced them to the safari drug, now they can pay for the addiction. Fair?

 

Good luck to Master ZO........

[micmic]

The theory is that lions only see the vehicle and the pepple as a blob and do not consider it much of a threat.

 

I've seen conflicting views on this. Some, like Trevor Carnaby, maintain that lions can't tell that there are humans in a car as long as their silhouettes aren't visible. Others however believe that lions can still understand that there are humans in the car, but they remain relaxed as long as those humans don't stand up or get out, ie as long as they don't appear "ready for action". This is what James Stevenson-Hamilton believed.

 

What a nice trip, and how lucky you are to have friends to share this trip with. My friends all fall under these categories: 1) would never consider a trip to a place where nice buildings/nice restaurants/nice clubs/nice shopping are not an essential part of the trip 2) would love such a trip but find it too expensive or can't afford it 3) are afraid to travel to Africa.

Edited May 12, 2011 by micmic

[ZaminOz]

The theory is that lions only see the vehicle and the pepple as a blob and do not consider it much of a threat.

 

I've seen conflicting views on this. Some, like Trevor Carnaby, maintain that lions can't tell that there are humans in a car as long as their silhouettes aren't visible. Others however believe that lions can still understand that there are humans in the car, but they remain relaxed as long as those humans don't stand up or get out, ie as long as they don't appear "ready for action". This is what James Stevenson-Hamilton believed.

Without the benefit of any scientific study... my personal view based on my experience is that the lions definitely know that you are there. Sit in an open vehicle and lock on direct eye contact with a lion 2 meters away and tell me that you think that he/she does not know exactly what and where you are!?

 

Why don't they attack? In my personal view:

1. they are supremely confident, have no interest in attacking and don't particularly care about your presence as long as you are not 'threatening' them.

2. standing up does two things [a] it is probably a perceived threat by lions which triggers a 'fight or flight' instinct (which way they go will then depend on combinations of factors; presence of cubs, lions personal disposition & mood, prior experience with humans, injury, and others) and if the lion is inclined to attack, standing up gives the lion a clear target to lock onto. But lions like many creatures give away their mood and intentions with body language before they act. Good guides are tuned in to this and know what a safe distance is and when to withdraw.

 

If you watch lions with the only other creatures they give begrudging respect to; elephants, hippos and big crocs, Lions are confident enough to completely ignore these creatures unless the elephant (for example) puts on a display of aggression, or approaches too close, in which case the lions will flee. I think that they treat humans and their vehicles much the same. If we do nothing aggressive or do not invade their close space comfort zone they will generally ignore us humans and our vehicles.

Humans on foot are an entirely different prospect of course and a lions' personal space/comfort zones are much wider.

Edited May 14, 2011 by ZaminOz

[ZaminOz]

The theory is that lions only see the vehicle and the pepple as a blob and do not consider it much of a threat.

What a nice trip, and how lucky you are to have friends to share this trip with. My friends all fall under these categories: 1) would never consider a trip to a place where nice buildings/nice restaurants/nice clubs/nice shopping are not an essential part of the trip 2) would love such a trip but find it too expensive or can't afford it 3) are afraid to travel to Africa.

Thanks ... yes I fortunately have a few friends in the I would be interested in going category but alas most of them are at that stage in their lives where they have young kids/babies and don't have the benefit of my experience so don't feel as safe as I do taking young children to Africa.

Edited May 14, 2011 by ZaminOz