kieslier reserve kruger and white elephant KWN July 2011

[COSMIC RHINO]

 

at africa on foot and ntambo I was just simply told what the activities are.

 

To be more precise I was told that in summer the grass was higher and the temperature would be over 40 degress C and over 90% humidity in both kruger and natal

 

getting back and reflecting makes me realise even more how humanity is seperated from the rest of life and full of the artificial, thinking tv movies as real and loving machines , all of which when it comes down to the basics of nature are fake

 

well what is all this nonsense sydney harbour bridge beautifull ? well it is nothing more than engineering works

 

I once saw a report that there is a very similar bridge in kwa zulu natal , the story even had a photo , and I know who can easily get back to the wonders of the african bush

 

It is practical to live in a big city but Sydney is full of prentions of granduer , all big cities are nothing more than function ugly.

 

grass is just urban ground cover it does not support grand life like elephant,impalas,zebras and gnu.

 

I heard someone say what a beautifull sunset , my instant reaction was take away those ugly buildings and give me thorntrees

 

on gamedrive and at other times in kruger I frequently had the music from OUT OF AFRICA in my head

 

I arrived in richards bay airport and my road transfer meet me as soon as I arrived at luggage collection with a simple sign with my name on it.

 

being taken along the main road there are now a whole lot of game reserves from RB to Pongolo

 

I arrived at white elephant lodge and was greeted by a very friendly and pleasant manager Nerise with a washer steamed with lavender oil to take away any sweat from the trip from RB

 

Yes an entirely different sort of place from where I had been in kruger.

 

People moved my bag to my tent I was taken there and told to come to high tea when I wanted to.

[COSMIC RHINO]

 

at africa on foot and ntambo I was just simply told what the activities are.

 

To be more precise I was told that in summer the grass was higher and the temperature would be over 40 degress C and over 90% humidity in both kruger and natal

 

getting back and reflecting makes me realise even more how humanity is seperated from the rest of life and full of the artificial, thinking tv movies as real and loving machines , all of which when it comes down to the basics of nature are fake

 

well what is all this nonsense sydney harbour bridge beautifull ? well it is nothing more than engineering works

 

I once saw a report that there is a very similar bridge in kwa zulu natal , the story even had a photo , and I know who can easily get back to the wonders of the african bush

 

It is practical to live in a big city but Sydney is full of prentions of granduer , all big cities are nothing more than function ugly.

 

grass is just urban ground cover it does not support grand life like elephant,impalas,zebras and gnu.

 

I heard someone say what a beautifull sunset , my instant reaction was take away those ugly buildings and give me thorntrees

 

on gamedrive and at other times in kruger I frequently had the music from OUT OF AFRICA in my head

 

I arrived in richards bay airport and my road transfer meet me as soon as I arrived at luggage collection with a simple sign with my name on it.

 

being taken along the main road there are now a whole lot of game reserves from RB to Pongolo

 

I arrived at white elephant lodge and was greeted by a very friendly and pleasant manager Nerise with a washer steamed with lavender oil to take away any sweat from the trip from RB

 

Yes an entirely different sort of place from where I had been in kruger.

 

People moved my bag to my tent I was taken there and told to come to high tea when I wanted to.

[COSMIC RHINO]

I had booked to be in a private reserve the good animal numbers ,knowing that it would be comfortable without being attracted by the comfort.

 

the camp has a low fence with a top electric wire,a few nyala roam around the tents and I once saw a wharthog nearby

 

the tents are about 15 feet high at a guess, tapering down to 9 feet for the bathroom which includes a claw foot bath large enough for two people, there is also a screened outdoor shower

 

the terrace at the fron includes a bar fridge and guest supplies cupboard with instant coffee and tea bags ,shortbreads

 

they have 2 printed booklets a history of the reserve and an eco guide

 

they promote themselves as a romantic location for sth africans the mountains and the scenery are superb

 

warm bubble baths are run by the staff when folk are out on the afternoon game drive , when at dinner the beds are turned down,romantic notes left and hot water botles are placed in the bed.

 

like my kruger places, they have 2 single beds pushed against each other with no gap ,so people may sleep without the other's movements affecting them

 

If someone is wanting a romantic safari I would recommend here

 

I was told a hungry visitor could be a problem, so I was well feed, I was underweight looks like I have put on a bit of weight and I am still not overweight.

 

the high tea before the game drive is a full savory and sweet meal ,when I politely said that I don't need so much food , I was told that nothing is wasted what you don't eat someone else will and high tea for 1 person was reduced to 4 mini pizzas, 4 mini tarts ,a plate of cut fruit ,2 full size jugs of juice and a jug of ice water.

 

at the first high tea the ranger adrianne appeared at the table effortlessly and explained the activities

 

the usual approach for dinner is a professionally presented menu shown at high tea, and people choose then

 

game meat is offered , as they say that is what a whole lot of people want

 

after a while they got the idea that I did not like red meat ,so it was just me ,I was presented with a seafood platter which if supplemented with a green salad would have been suficcient for 3 people.

[twaffle]

Excellent information, thanks CR

[COSMIC RHINO]

the game viewing at pongolo is very good, especially elephants, giraffe ,impalas, wharthogsfor those interested they maintain a feeding platform for vultures

 

I spent a morning with an elephant reserrcher and a group of students

 

the ranger often wanders during the game drive snack checking tracks

 

getting back to food the place has 4 full meals a day light breakfast fresh baked crossiants .biscuits with drinks , full brunch , full high tea ,full menu dinner with sorbets between entree and main course and wine if you want it

[kittykat23uk]

Sounds very posh Cosmic!

[COSMIC RHINO]

Sounds very posh Cosmic!

 

Yes but that is not why I went there

 

the gamedrive snack as well as the standard dried fruit,nuts,billtong also includes muffins

 

picking up a business card in the transfer vehicle , white elephant used the same firm as had quoted me a very expensive price, but when the lodge asked they quoted 1/2 the price which was added to my WE bill without any commission charged

 

white elephant main lodge building has decorations of antelope skulls in line with other lodges and the hunting past of the region

 

to prevent an elephant over population problem their male eles have been sterilised

 

wharthogs and buffalo have seriously increased in numbers and they plan to introduce some lions to bring it into a more natural balance situation.

 

the game drives return with a greeting from the manager accompanied by a table of drinks fruit or otherwise as desired

 

the afternoon gamedrive returns around 6pm

 

after the brunch you can be taken to a lovely waterhole hide which has a small building surrounding a low fence with a top electric wire.

 

the waterhole has delightfull scenery ,it is a very restfull,soothing place to go to

 

it is a very good place to take photos of some animals like wharthogs,impala,nyala who don't stay still on gamedrive. wharthogs use a mud wallow and you can easily hear them moving around

 

I went 3 times, the building is normally shut but becomes wide open with a number of windows. there are a number of padded cane chairs, however move carefully as the animals will go quickly if you move too much

[COSMIC RHINO]

any baked food item including bread and muffins is fresh baked ,not from a packet or box

 

the cooks also do delightfull acapella singing when people are leaving etc

 

I missed out on this ,as just when I was waiting for my tranfer I was photographing elephants who could be seen at longer lens length from the edge of the lodge fence , I could hear them starting to sing when I was in the rest room after I had been told that the car was at the reserve gate

 

My trip overall involves romancing thorntrees and giraffes I find giraffes wonderfull, when I was in east africa 1984 and 1986 seeing them was something infreqent and there was a bit too much of racing from animal to animal

[COSMIC RHINO]

the trip overall was wonderfull

 

white ele ranger adrianne was very friendly and knowledgable

 

he likes to spend time in a particular place in the bush just to observe what happens

 

he said only some people like this,like I like the waterhole.

 

one of the other clients asked him does he miss shopping in town , he said no

 

he loves being in the bush and does not often go to doctors, he told me the last time was 18 years ago

 

you can get a feel for some people after a while, so I showed him a piece of classic american literary nature writing which I had with me,the essential quotes from Henry Beston THE OUTERMOST HOUSE which is printed in wildlife photography books from time to time, it was so good that I got the full book. the best know passage begins" for the animal ---"

 

Whatever attitude to human existence,you fashion for yourself,know that it is only valid if it be a shadow of an attitude to Nature. A human life,so often likened to a spectacle upon a stage, is more justly a rituaL. The ancient values of dignity,beauty and poetry which sustain it are of Nature's inspiration; they are born of the mystery and beauty of the world .

 

For the animal shall not be measured by man. In a world older and more complete than ours they move finished and complete,gifted with extensions of senses we have lost or never attained,living by voices we shall never hear. They are not breathren,they are not underlings,they are other nations,caught with ourselves in the net of life and time,fellow prisoners of the splendor and trevail of the earth.

Edited August 3, 2011 by COSMIC RHINO

[COSMIC RHINO]

adrainne in response said some people know the true truth and wisdom of the world

 

he said this when I first showed it to him, and several other times during my visit

 

I left him a copy of the passage at the office

 

well it was published in 1928 and has never been out of print

 

subsequent scientific discoveries bear things out , we now have knowledge of stronger animal senses which was not know then

[Sangeeta]

For the animal shall not be measured by man. In a world older and more complete than ours they move finished and complete,gifted with extensions of senses we have lost or never attained,living by voices we shall never hear. They are not breathren,they are not underlings,they are other nations,caught with ourselves in the net of life and time,fellow prisoners of the splendor and trevail of the earth.

 

CR - this is one of the most beautiful quotations I have ever read anywhere. If you don't mind me going off-topic for just a minute - yesterday, my neighbor, who is very involved with dog rescue, authorized the clinic to euthanize one of her very ill dogs. She emailed me afterwards that all of her remaining dogs in the house set up a huge howl at the very moment they were putting Gully to sleep. I can believe that happened. For the very reasons you mention in the quote above.

 

I like your stream of consciousness style very much. Thanks for a very enjoyable and very informative report.

[COSMIC RHINO]

For the animal shall not be measured by man. In a world older and more complete than ours they move finished and complete,gifted with extensions of senses we have lost or never attained,living by voices we shall never hear. They are not breathren,they are not underlings,they are other nations,caught with ourselves in the net of life and time,fellow prisoners of the splendor and trevail of the earth.

 

CR - this is one of the most beautiful quotations I have ever read anywhere. If you don't mind me going off-topic for just a minute - yesterday, my neighbor, who is very involved with dog rescue, authorized the clinic to euthanize one of her very ill dogs. She emailed me afterwards that all of her remaining dogs in the house set up a huge howl at the very moment they were putting Gully to sleep. I can believe that happened. For the very reasons you mention in the quote above.

 

I like your stream of consciousness style very much. Thanks for a very enjoyable and very informative report.

 

I first saw it in Jonathan Scott's THE GREAT MIGRATION very powerfull and lyrical , I have seen it in other wildlife books and in books on environmental philosophy

 

The writer was involved with a woman who knew that he had powerfull writing in him and refused to marry him before he produced the book

 

It is his reflections on nature from a house at Cape Cod

[COSMIC RHINO]

For the animal shall not be measured by man. In a world older and more complete than ours they move finished and complete,gifted with extensions of senses we have lost or never attained,living by voices we shall never hear. They are not breathren,they are not underlings,they are other nations,caught with ourselves in the net of life and time,fellow prisoners of the splendor and trevail of the earth.

 

CR - this is one of the most beautiful quotations I have ever read anywhere. If you don't mind me going off-topic

 

 

this is not of topic ,this is precisely what we are all about

 

too many people are too wraped up in their own concerns , this is one of the most powerfull pieces of writing I have ever seen anywhere

[COSMIC RHINO]

as things turned out it was rather cold and animals were hiding amongst bushs to some extent

 

turns out that an accident helped me out

 

Having tripped on urban pavement twice injuring my hands , the second time reasonably seriously with the DR putting me on anti biotics I walk around with weightlifters gloves which protect the palms well ,but leave the fingertips exposed ,I thought be cautious wear them down to get the airport taxi so I took them away with me

 

a good thing to do ,turns out that the early mornings and evenings were so cold that I was moving my light compact camera and blurring the picturee,until I started to use the gloves

[COSMIC RHINO]

as things turned out it was rather cold and animals were hiding amongst bushs to some extent

 

turns out that an accident helped me out

 

Having tripped on urban pavement twice injuring my hands , the second time reasonably seriously with the DR putting me on anti biotics I walk around with weightlifters gloves which protect the palms well ,but leave the fingertips exposed ,I thought be cautious wear them down to get the airport taxi so I took them away with me

 

a good thing to do ,turns out that the early mornings and evenings were so cold that I was moving my light compact camera and blurring the picturee,until I started to use the gloves

[COSMIC RHINO]

white elephant has a large dam which is used for tiger fishing trips if you want to or boat cruises ,and also boat cruises mainly scenery but they can get close to a few hippos

 

the first animal I saw in kruger was an elephant ,the last animal on the way out of white elephant was a wharthog .

 

The last animal overall was vervet monkeys on a street near richards bay airport

[COSMIC RHINO]

I am feeling rather tired having got home 3pm ,then back to work 9 30 am the next day

 

as regards flights the route was changed a bit to avoid where the volcanic ash was, anyone who missed connecting flights were automatically rebooked onto a later flight, put up in the sun international hotel if this involved an overnight stay

 

this has possibly been my best experience of Africa,no crowds ,no hassled animals

 

reflecting on things prior trips in kenya and in botswana ,visitor numbers in chobe were a bit too much has possibly made me very sensative to how much company I am likely to have

 

everyone seeing the same animals (like they came from central casting) is off putting,especially when there a not many of them ,and there are loads of vehicles.

 

this is made even worse my aggressive use of 2 way radios and offroad driving

 

you can't connect with wild nature if you have crowds

 

chic luxury lodges remove many people from it all ,perhaps for some the luxury is the priority and nature is a backdrop

 

looking at places online I was really put of when mention was made of confrence facilities,mobile/cell phone reception and wifi hotspot

 

the other clients,the few that were with me were ok

 

other than guides I was the only one dressed only in green and brown , which had a certain effect in JHB airport he must be a tourist,I was asked sir do you want a taxi, no thanks

 

I was on holiday and there to have a good time

 

when asked at A on foot ,in a hurry to get to nthambo I want to watch the super rugby final ,I fitted in with Jan's plans

 

a american asked me as I gathered for the Hoedspruit plane here on a hunting trip ? no here just to look , I did not tell him what I thought of hunting, he will get his karma from the health consequences of his serious overweight belly

 

A wonderfull experience, wildlife as it comes ,not overproduced to give the visitors what they want and disturbing the animals in the process.

[COSMIC RHINO]

the other clients

 

in my kruger segment a few south africans ,some english people who could not get away from talking about the comforts of their ordinary day consumer life and the blue cheese can I get this in UK ?, a postgrad american working on the square km telescope and an american pre vet student who also talked about life in usa, a few dutch people

 

being concerned with the ordinary day is a great way to minimise the benefits of going to the bush

 

 

white elephant a swiss family and an american newly wed couple, a london based anglo american executive who wanted after many business trips,wanted to see more of sth africa than the office, so had come with his wife and daughter, it did not havbe to be luxury ,so I suggested nthambo

 

I found my peace sometimes disturded by continoius shooting video mode on a SLR

 

the americans were on extended honeymoon and were planning on writing yet another travel novel, likely self published, promoted on social media, how many of those things are around,successfull???

 

They had been in africa for months without any malaria propalis

 

they said that they visited malawi to see friends and do missionary work, he was feeling tired, took the malaria test stips, had it ,took the medication for about a week and felt fine

 

perhaps USA doctors are super cautious about legal action,is somoeone going to sue about sun sensativity from fibramicyn

 

they were obvioiusly ignorant of what disease risks there are in going to malawi and seemed to be overall very relaxed about malaraia.

[kittykat23uk]

Hi Cosmic,

 

I have self published books of my trips as a keepsake. They turn out very well but I doubt they are really of interest to anyone but the author, their family and those on the trip.

[COSMIC RHINO]

the self published travel story could be ok for those who know them but probably not any wider.

 

greeting messages from white elepant

 

When I arrived thetre was a handwritten greeting card beginning

 

"The White Elephant Family would like to sish you many many years of love and laughter "

 

 

Pillow notes

 

 

in dreams and love

there are no impossibilities

 

Janos Arany

 

@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

 

Food for the soul

 

look foward to dreams

wake up happy

love yourself

 

@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

There are no ordinary people

 

 

 

 

all computer printed with their ele logo on the bottom corner and stuck onto good grade art carbdoard

[COSMIC RHINO]

the simple cabins at africa on foot with light flyscreen doors allow the air in easily

 

at nthambo and white elephant at night I left the outer flaps open ,sealing the heavy fabric mesh screens

 

so where ever I was I was taking in the same air as the wildlife as a way of connecting with things

 

I was among the glory and splendor of life

[Super LEEDS]

Hi CR

 

Love reading the bullet point tips - great for those who are relatively new to things.

 

Any chance of seeing any pics?

[COSMIC RHINO]

no lost baggage, no hassles with security, after a while I got used to their interest in my batteries and keys so I showed them to security

 

I was not required to remove my shoes.

 

I managed to wash out my shirt,socks and boxer shorts drying them on a covered coat hanger in the shower.

 

since I was not sweeting I did not wash them, when I got back home, I turned them inside out to dry and found that a thorn had almost made a micro hole around one of the back pockets

 

walking around the tent the tent to check on how dry my socks were, a thorn got stuck inside my ear . I managed to get it out ,but there was immediately a slight line of dripping blood down to my chin. This was immediately stopped by applying euclyaptus oil which I had to keep an ingrown toenail clean.

[COSMIC RHINO]

U was asked why I was travelling alone, and I said why better to be solo than with someone who is suicidal. this was understood.

 

ryan at africa on foot had an office job which he hated, so he decided to try something else and loves guiding.

 

hate is the applicable word,says he would go crazy if he got more than 2 phone calls in a day

 

he said that he once commented to a female client that flat shoes would be more practical , and was told that it does not go with the outfil . stilleto heeled shoes ,bood tube and a mini skirt on a game drive she was advised that it was not the time to be putting on makeup. she feel over a number of times and ended up bruised.

[COSMIC RHINO]

prior to leaving I purchased a slightly larger cabin bag which was usefull.

 

on practical matters I made a mistake luggage.

 

I took a duffle bag, not very wide so things have to be folded up multiple times to pack them , resulting in not much room in there.

 

I was wearing my winter PJ trousers under my cargo pants , and all a polartec vest, full polartec jacket and overcoat over my shirt on all flights.

 

So I asked where I stayed, no there is no problem coming with a mid sized suitcase. that is what I will do next time.

 

on those smaller planes used by SA express it would had been easier to skycheck my cabin bag, but I wanted to have my camera,binos, travel documents etc with me. so next time I will remove those things and put them in my day pack.