Tanzania mid-March. 70% Serengeti, 100% Sensational. Includes Daily Weather

[PT123]

Thanks again - especially for the black rhino shots. Three at once is truly majestic!

[michael-ibk]

Thanks for Arusha and Ngorongoro. Reports are even more fun when one knows the place.

 

Love your albino baboon pics. Would really like to know if it is the same one I saw. I like his facial expression in the fifth pic where he seems to contemplate what to think of you.

 

I saw indeed plenty of grazers in September in Arusha. "Serengeti Ndogo" was almost crowded, I remember one meadow with at least 20 giraffes. And lots of zebras and buffalos.

 

Great luck with rhino, wonderful! And I really like the eland pic.

 

I was told 9 prides of lion would roam in the crater which seemed too much to me even then, four makes a lot more sense. Poor lion gramps, though, his skeleton seems to nearly stick out.

 

This Abdim stork is a weird bird indeed, never even heard of it.

 

About the absent elephant calves: Says so in my guide book, too, but it isn´t correct I saw several ele babies in Lerai forest.

[AKR1]

Beautiful NG photographs. I especially like the three black rhinos and the old lion. I am jealous of others who had great sightings in the crater.

My one and only visit to the crater in 2010 was not very memorable. It was freezing cold and the drive around the rim in pitch dark pre- dawn with dense fog, hairy. The day remained overcast and cold and we did not see much game from close, although saw lots from a distance including two black rhinos and a cheetah kill ( post the actual kill). But we did not see a single lion or leopard and the vehicle density grew as the day progressed so not one of my better days on safari. Unfortunately it's not a place I want to visit again.

[Safaridude]

Lynn, beautiful photos... especially the birds. I must say you had an incredible birding trip.

[Sangeeta]

And 200% fabulous in every respect!

 

That baby dikdik and nursing dikdik are show stoppers. Was it one of the adults eating the purple petals? Another show stopper.

 

Don't even know where to begin saying wow with the incredible amount of detail and info you provide on each TR, Lynn. The weather reports, adapter reports and salami mystery are all firsts for me, not to mention that adorable, bedraggled Abdim stork I love that face!

 

Looking forward to the rest. Some of you really need to compile your TRs into book form - really.

[Atravelynn]

@@michael-ibk, you have proven there is an exception to every rule.

@@AKR1 your comments verify how early mornings are so important during busy crater times.

@@Sangeeta, the adult was eating the purple petals. You know how the report ends, because you were there.

@@Csaba, thanks for the confirmation back there of what you see.

 

Thanks all for the encouraging words.

Lake Magadi, Seronera African Kestrals, whole tree full, Seronera

 

SERONERA, SERENGETI

With not a single wilde in sight for miles around, we wondered where a lioness found the one she had just brought down. We came upon her as she was dragging the newly killed carcass into high grass. She then did a very thorough job of covering the area with dirt to obscure the scent.

 

Lioness just killed this wildebeest, Seronera

 

Nary a wildebeest, but loads of buffalo in Seronera.

Seronera buffalo

 

Seronera this time of year offered a good visual of endless plains (the meaning of Serengeti), sometimes empty endless plains. Nothing but LBJs (Little Brown Jobs = small dull colored birds) for maybe an hour of driving, then suddenly a nursing hyena and pups that had been waterlogged out of the den (no offroading rules prevented a good angle for a photo) or a lion pride or a serval. I believe I spotted the same serval on two separate morning drives to Gol Kopjes.

Displaced with his family from a waterlogged den, Seronera

Serval, Seronera

Edited June 10, 2013 by Atravelynn

[urologysteve]

Wow- this is an amazing trip report. I don't know where to begin. So many great stories and pictures. I am especially interested since I have a trip planned for next march for 2 weeks. Staying in a couple of the same places. We will be adding in Tarangire (first time there). Thanks for sharing!

[amybatt]

Great photos and entertaining story. We were there maybe two weeks before you (in Ndutu Feb 16-19, Serengeti 19-22) and in looking at your photos I wonder if those are some of the same cheetahs and lions we saw. The pride in Ngorongoro also makes me wonder as we saw one larger pride there. We stayed in the lodge in Arusha first and last days and loved the dik diks too!

 

I have to ask though, having only been on one safari, what constitutes "crowded" that everyone is trying to avoid? The largest crowd I saw at any one time was in Serengeti, where maybe 20 vehicles were waiting for the one known leopard in the area and her two cubs to come out of a tree and once where two Leopard vehicles were at the sighting of the large pride in the Serengeti. Other than that, I'd be surprised if we saw more than one or two other vehicles here or there the entire time in the Serengeti. Ngorongoro, maybe two or three passed by. Definitely nothing I remember in Ndutu. Was my guide adept at just going where there were no crowds?

[Atravelynn]

@@urologysteve, you have given me added incentive to complete the report, which ends in Ndutu.

@@amybatt, I am sure we visited with some of the same animals. Your description of the crowds and lack thereof smack that you encountered smack in the middle of Feb does indeed point to an adept guide. What constitutes a crowd to me is the 20-some vehicles you describe and that I encountered under identical circumstances. For me, two is company, three is not a crowd, but five vehicles are.

 

I am encouraged at your lack of crowds.

 

 

 

Seronera continued

 

 

 

Lake Magadi, Seronera

 

 

 

 

Lots of animal activity around the Seronera River, minutes from Seronera Wildlife Lodge. At one point I had to choose between tree climbing lions and leopard cubs. Fortunately I managed both.

Along Seronera River

 

A herd of zebra enjoyed a drink and a dip in the river, spooking themselves into a mini stampede every few minutes.

 

Retima Hippo Pool in Seronera

About an hour’s game drive or around 20 km northwest by road from Seronera Wildlife Lodge awaits a multi-sensory experience—The Retima Hippo Pool. In addition to the sights and grunting/bellowing sounds are the smells of feces laden water. The hippos contentedly soaked in it as if it were bubble bath. Viewing/listening/smelling is safely done from a couple of designated spots well above the pool.

 

 

I went to the hippo pool twice and pre-rain the odor was more evident than post-rain. Pre-rain there also was more jostling and jawing due to less water and less space, providing some wide mouthed photo opps.

Retima Hippo Pool, Seronera

 

The hippo pool was one of the places I used my monopod, standing on the overlook above the pool. There did not seem to be much difference in the morning vs. the evening visit and the sun is on either side of the pool so there is no shooting directly into the sun in am or pm. Both visits combined for about 3 hours of hippo--along with croc--viewing. Retima Hippo pool is a real gem.

Wide angle view of Retima Hippo Pool, Seronera Hippo tooth gone wild, very uncomfortable looking Hippo and croc, Retima Hippo Pool, Seronera

 

There is a very small hippo pool just minutes from Seronera Wildlife Lodge, but nothing like Retima. I never even took a photo there.

 

Hippo, croc, Blacksmith Plover at Retima Hippo Pool, Seronera

Edited June 12, 2013 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

 

Kopjes of Seronera

Gol, Maasai, Moru, Research, Simba Kopjes…even when the areas around the kopjes were empty of hoofed species, we found a few lions atop the kopjes.

 

Maasai Kopje

Male and female at Moru Kopjes

Feb-March can be very windy, which discourages lions from perching up high. Sometimes we found the lions wedged between the boulders, sheltered from the wind. At most we saw two other vehicles driving around the various kopjes, and usually none.

 

Taking refuge from the wind

 

I did not always keep track of which kopjes were which in my photos, but they all offered attractive landscapes.

 

 

Gol Kopjes, very near Ndutu, was an especially pretty area and we visited twice. The large number of Thomsons Gazelle make it excellent cheetah habitat, though we saw only one coalition of two males, too distant to photograph. Our two visits were separated by two days and it was surprising how many more animals were present the second time. It costs an extra $10 to visit Gol Kopjes FYI, which I had prepaid. The Gol Kopje “pass” was for an admission, not a specific date.

Gol Kopjes-----The look this young male w//zebra gave us was chilling. We figured either he had been fighting for his kill or had arrived recently from a hunting concession.

Naabi Hill offers good cell phone reception so I called home twice from this area on George’s phone after hiking a few minutes up a hill for the view.

Agama Lizard, Seronera Leopard Tortoise, Seronera

 

Balloon in Seronera

 

Seronera Sunrises/Sunsets

End of Seronera

Edited June 12, 2013 by Atravelynn

[Bart]

WONDERFUL trip report! So intresting to read your thoughts on camps, parks, areas, driving times, loads of other practical stuff...And also great story telling and beatiful pictures. I really like the black rhinos, the old lion, the playing cheetahs, the....too much to mention.

 

I was there 2 weeks before you, doing one day Arusha NP, 6 days Ndutu and 2 drives in the crater.

 

Arusha NP delivered 1 (lousy) colobus sighting. One goof blue monkey sighting made up for that together with the clear blue skies and the clear vistas on Mt meru adn Mt kilimanjaro (allthough the latter only during our first hour in the park but still wonderful)

 

Ndutu: lack of diversity compared to other areas I visited on previous trips and on this trip. We did see other species than wildebeest, zebra and big cats but rarely and not good quality sightings. However, who needs diversity when cheeaths mums almost literally come up to your vehicle to ask you to take a pic of them with their offspring for the family album. 12 sightings on 6 days, 28 individuals, hunting, killing, feeding, socialising, climbing up to the trunk,...I fear I used all of my cheetah luck for the rest of my life.

 

The crater: not too many sightings during our afternoon drive and the ones we had were far away BUT the fact that the usual ascent road was closed ment that all people staying at the western rim (most lodges and camps) had to use the Sopa ascent road and thus had to leave pretty early. This meant that even during busy february we drove for about 1 hour and a half without seeing any one else. Morning drive the day after...early leaving with breakfast in the box revealed the most wonderful serval sighting and two black rhino crossing the road 50 metres or so in front of us. Strangely, hardly any lion but if you have serval and black rhino that is the least of your concern. This was my third vivit to the crater and frankly, I would NEVER EVER visit the region without at least one drive in the crater. That place is pure magic.

 

Now I want to read ALL about your Ndutu experiences!

Edited June 12, 2013 by Bart

[Super LEEDS]

not a forum for snickering juvenile nonsense and middle school humor.

 

Why marginalise pault and I like that?!

 

Only read up to there so far. Loving it.

[twaffle]

Seronera and the various kopjes looks wonderful. Love the photos, such variety and really a visual feast.

[pault]

 

not a forum for snickering juvenile nonsense and middle school humor.

 

Why marginalise pault and I like that?!

Only read up to there so far. Loving it.

Oi! I saw that!

 

Great stuff Lynn... Really like how much you recorded - and how well. I recognise some places and regret that I missed others having seen them here. Your words seem to be running out of steam at times though. Still enjoy reading and nothing really missing but a bit perfunctory in places. Busy? Or something as simple as a lack of coffee?

 

Sorry, I have just finished reading the book review section of my newspaper.......

[twaffle]

Everyone's a critic!!! Lynn's going to have words with you pault.

[Atravelynn]

 

not a forum for snickering juvenile nonsense and middle school humor.

 

Why marginalise pault and I like that?!

 

Only read up to there so far. Loving it.

 

I did have a few members in mind, besides myself, when I mentioned middle school humor. Those members will remain nameless.

 

I'll "perfunctory" you, @@pault!

 

Is that sufficent for words, @@twaffle?

 

@@Bart, your Ndutu comments sum it up. I could add a few pics to your statement and finish up Ndutu. Your cheetah experience mirrors mine, except you saw even MORE cats.

"12 sightings on 6 days, 28 individuals, hunting, killing, feeding, socialising, climbing up to the trunk,...I fear I used all of my cheetah luck for the rest of my life."

 

True there was a lack of diversity of wildlife in Ndutu that one would expect in the Mara. George did ask me if I'd like to head to another area where we'd see more elephants and giraffes. I declined.

[Atravelynn]

NDUTU, SERENGETI

Ndutu is part of the Serengeti, designated by white markers that can sometimes get in the way of photos. Offroading is permitted.

 

The wildebeest were all in Ndutu and we joined their herds on numerous drives. Since birthing occurs primarily in the morning after a rain and it rained only my last night in Ndutu (plus I was there late in the season) I did not see any births taking place. I did see one placenta.

 

Despite their huge numbers, I found that photos of wildes were a challenge. They like to show you their backsides and are protective of the calves.

 

The edge of the migration, Ndutu

All dressed up and no place to go, Ndutu

Wildebeest in Ndutu

 

It was fascinating how wildes blanketed an area one day and were absent for miles around the next.

 

[Atravelynn]

Ruppell.s Griffon Vulture in foreground, Lappet faced Vulture on takeoff

Vulture Convention, Ndutu

Mating Rupell's Griffon Vultures

Marabou Storks, morsel in midair inside the open bill

Ruppell's Griffon Vulture flapping

 

Fuzzy headed Ruppells Griffon Vulture chicks

Hooded Vulture and Marabou Stork, Ndutu

I spent several hours with vultures, sometimes accompanied by jackals or marabou storks. The albino Lappet faced Vulture, which was actually leucistic, meaning it retained some brown, was not only a vulture highlight, but a safari highlight. It was also a first for George.

 

Albino Lappet faced Vulture, actually leucistic because it has retained some brown coloring, Ndutu

Edited June 13, 2013 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

Black backed jackals and vultures, Ndutu

Edited June 13, 2013 by Atravelynn

[pault]

He ducked and tried to step to one side. But she anticipated his moves and perfunctured him with embarrassing ease.

 

"Stop!" he gasped as she prepared to perfuncture him again. "I meant to say 'pithy and pregnant with meaning'."

[Atravelynn]

He ducked and tried to step to one side. But she anticipated his moves and perfunctured him with embarrassing ease.

 

"Stop!" he gasped as she prepared to perfuncture him again. "I meant to say 'pithy and pregnant with meaning'."

Before I stop you're getting a wedgie from those "white Jockey-brand Y-fronts" that you mentioned in another post. That'll show ya.

 

Recalling "Serengeti Strikes back after Mara Kicks Sand in her Face" it appears you are always ready for a brawl! Who would ever guess with that innocent kitty face?

 

So much for my goal of trying to avoid middle school humor and antics on this respected forum. The wedgie remark was my undoing.

Edited June 13, 2013 by Atravelynn

[twaffle]

Riposte and counter riposte.

 

Vultures are always good value and I love the fuzzy headed youngsters. Great capture of the flying morsel in the marabou beak.

[Brian's Art for Animals]

As always, amazing photos and descriptions of the events. I seem to be traveling the world right behind you A-Lynn, as my Tanzania visit (first time to Tanz for me) is coming up in late Jan-Feb 2014. If I see half of what you did, I will be very pleased.

Looking forward to reading more....

[Atravelynn]

Nice to see you passing through, @@brian's Art Animals, on the way to your next adventure!

 

Thank you for refereeing, @@twaffle. I'm calling truce with @@pault.

 

Continuing with Ndutu...

Ndutu

Entenmann’s for Ernest

In Sept of 2011 Ernest of Flycatchers was my guide in Northern Serengeti. At one point during that trip I explained to Ernest that I thought the terrain looked like chocolate chip cookies/biscuits because the grasses were like the golden biscuit and the wildebeests looked like the brown chips. Ernest must not have eaten too many chocolate chip biscuits because he asked me to explain that analogy several times. I did my best to compare the chocolate pieces/chips in a biscuit with their resemblance to the wildebeest-dotted hills that surrounded us. But I don’t think I was very successful. So I vowed that if I ever had the good fortune to return where I could meet up with Ernest, I’d bring him a bag of Chips Ahoy.

 

I upgraded from Chips Ahoy to Entenmann’s Chocolate Chip Cookies and packed a box for George too. We planned to track down the Flycatcher camp in Ndutu to deliver the Entenmann’s to Ernest, but we ran into a Flycatcher vehicle the second day in Ndutu and George flagged it down to ask about Ernest. Hussein, the Flycatcher driver, told us Ernest was in Arusha but that he’d make sure the chocolate chip biscuits and my note made it to Ernest. Hussein and I recognized each other from the previous trip and it was fun to see another familiar face.

 

 

On this trip the grass was far too green to resemble golden cookie dough. The wildebeest analogy would be more like raisins in lime jello, which is neither appetizing nor easy to transport on international flights.

Ndutu

Edited June 16, 2013 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

Bat eared foxes

Bat Eared Foxes & Rodney Dangerfield

For three mornings in Ndutu we spent time with a leash or skulk (those are the proper collective names) of bat eared foxes that numbered 18, 10, and 6. (18 was a record for George.) Each morning the foxes were visible from the nearby road. Of the approximately dozen vehicles that drove past us during these mornings, one slowed down to look from the road and only one came over to share the sighting. These are BAT! EARED! FOXES! people! And there were numerous foxes, all visible with decent light that was improving by the minute. A few years ago in the Mara, I recall nobody joined me at the bat eared fox den and just drove on by. The bat eared fox, like Rodney Dangerfield, gets no respect.

Edited June 16, 2013 by Atravelynn