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Northern Serengeti trip, August/September 2013


PCNW

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....but first we had a fairly mild afternoon drive seeing one of the most beautiful river scenes that I believe I've ever seen. I will say these photos don't fully capture how lovely it was or I've built it up in my mind. At the time it seemed almost like a biblical scene.

 

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While there we watched a monitor lizard give two geese a fit. He was definitely looking for something of theirs although we never saw him find a nest.

 

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This sleeping lioness appeared to have cubs based on her nips. We waited around and watched her yawn.....and that was pretty much it.

 

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We watched this lonely injured wildebeest try to stand without success and my heart breaks for those left behind.

 

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Love at first bite.

 

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And as the sun set we headed back to camp for what was to become our evening routine with Deo....happy hour.....

 

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@@PCNW

Seems you had a wonderful trip and those pictures you took tell the story.

we were last month at the Mara but after seeing your photos i wish i could just back there again.

Would like to ask you aficionados: Wildlife viewing seems to be a very "dangerous" addiction. As all addicts dont know if i want to be rid of it!!!!

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Thank you Twaffle. Earthian 13 months ago I came to Africa for what was going to be my one and only trip and I've now been three times. But, that's nothing compared to some ST's. It is an addiction.

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The river scene does look lovely. Even if your photos weren't lovely too, I'd know that was a beautiful scene - sitting on a high bank of the Mara at just the right spot with a bit of green around.... mmmmm.

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On our 2nd full day in the Serengeti we trudged up the fairly long walk to the car park area in the dark. We had made two requests early on and then three weeks out for a particular bourbon (three options actually) and to be close to the main areas as my husband has had bilateral hip replacements....he's starting to slow down... But Lamai either didn't get the message or they thought we said put as far away as possible. We headed out at 6:00 packed to the gills with breakfast and lunch.

 

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After getting to our secret spot on the Mara we found a welcoming committee using our spot.

 

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Shortly after the wildee's moved of and we moved in we realized a crossing had begun without us. Such luck, the sun behind us and no one else around. It was perfect. Deo and I scrambled down the bank and this is really when I appreciated not owning/bringing/buying a larger lens. I used the full range of the 80-400 during the spectacle and could not have hand held anything heavier for very long.

 

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Seeing the migration and crossings had not been high on my list but I thought my husband who had seen it in documentaries would be able to relate to this safari. But, I will say I was somewhat emotional having waited nearly nine months for this exact scene to play out. Breck said his heart was racing...it lasted about 40 min. and we didn't even see the start. We debated sticking around but all agreed this crossing would be hard to top and we moved on.

 

After a temporary road block at the bridge by a young guide with a flat tire and no confidence to cross we headed over to Kenya. Deo said that 14 vehicles had gone off this bridge since January.

 

The Bridge

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And what a change in the scenery...My word, I can't get over the variations in landscapes on this trip.

 

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It was a quiet day on this side seeing three sleeping cheetah brothers, having lunch and just enjoying the plains game and the views.

 

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Photo Bomb

 

Can anyone explain why this wildebeest is photo bombing my darling mother/daughter pic by doing the bratty horns behind the head thing????

 

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Not wanting to wear out our welcome we headed back to our side of the border and meandered home.

 

Is this not the cleanest hyena you've ever seen? He looks like a buffed and fluffed show dog ready for the ring.

 

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We made it back just in time for happy hour with Deo. It seemed all of the camp was in rare form this evening with Deo holding court and meeting several new friends. Breck, who was getting reacquainted with his old friend Johnny (Jack) Daniels, was gaining more and more appreciation of this trip. I left them at the bar, skipped dinner and headed to bed.

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Edited by PCNW
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Some more photos from our day trip to the Kenya side of the Mara.

 

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We continued to alternate full days and half days as Breck enjoyed a break and coming back for lunch but Deo and I enjoyed being out all day. It seemed easier to me to stay out than come back. We had several days in middle of our eight in the Serengeti that seemed fairly uneventful but with the landscape being such a surprise I was more than satisfied. Our one hunt was as mild as it can get.

 

One day we were watching a cheetah mom and her two cubs when she calmly walked into a gully and out of sight, we heard a baby cry and out she came with a fawn. Reedbok I believe but someone might help me with this. I've now misplaced part of my notes. No build up but exciting to us.

 

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This was our first of a few afternoon thunder storms, and man what doozy! Hail and by 20 minutes the plains were flooded making getting back to camp a challenge. Slipping and sliding all the way. When Deo, who's very brave (read risk taker) gave this rain and rock filled gully a second thought Breck grabbed his cell phone to capture our crossing. After we (barely) made it through he checked and poor thing had not turned it on but does have some excellent footage of the floor boards. His only regret of the trip.

 

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Just Beautiful, PCNW.....I remember your planning and "dragging" Mr. W to Tz. I imagine by the end of this report he has indeed the bug!

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On the following day Breck and completed the big five and although I have to stop and think what they actually are he kept count. But the day started with a glimpse of the balloon that we were to enjoy in a few days.

 

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The hyenas having a field day with this poor carcass.

 

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We watched this hammerkop mutilate this poor frog for nearly 20 minutes. I thought he was trying to crush his bones making it easier to swallow but Deo thought he was trying to kill it not wanting to swallow it alive.

 

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Hi Graceland...indeed it was almost a kicking and screaming vacation but you're so correct he will go again. Our first night back with all of the kids he was wearing his new safari hat that he ordered for the trip but didn't arrive until we got back and playing some African tunes. I knew he would enjoy the customer service but what I didn't realize is how he would get into the game drives. He was Deo's right hand man with the binoc's.

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@@PCNW more wonderful photos - thank you!

 

Regarding the "bridge", when you cross the Mara river at this point, you're still in the Serengeti but an area called the Lamai Wedge. A few more km north would get you to the Masai Mara border. As a reference point, the hills you can see behind the zebras and trees in the second photo of post #33 are on the Kenya side of the border.

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A few more from this day...whatever day that was...oh where, oh where are my notes??? We found a lioness and two sub adults finishing this wildebeest. And these eland were making me mad...having been hunted they will not let you get too close.

 

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Thank you Africapurohit, I just kept thinking the bridge was the border but not because it wasn't explained correctly by Deo.

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Your images are still fresh in MY mind and I even recognise the 3 males cheetahs and the mother cheetah with the two sub-adult cubs!

 

I have started my trip report but northern Serengeti was the last 10 nights of a 26 day trip. I've only just finished day 8 of my report so still a long way to go before I even start looking at my photos of northern Serengeti!

 

Your report has been very therapeutic :)

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Beautiful photos and I'm just enjoying everything. Your lion yawning silhouette is to die for.

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I'm up to my eyeballs and havent had time right now but I can't wait to dive into all of the trip reports that are ongoing. Looking forward to yours Africapurohit.

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Thanks Twaffle. I've made a slide show/video and used that photo as the lead in to a 16 photo series of another lioness yawning. Really looking forward to your report...we're flush with some great reading material.

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Hi Graceland...indeed it was almost a kicking and screaming vacation but you're so correct he will go again. Our first night back with all of the kids he was wearing his new safari hat that he ordered for the trip but didn't arrive until we got back and playing some African tunes. I knew he would enjoy the customer service but what I didn't realize is how he would get into the game drives. He was Deo's right hand man with the binoc's.

So funny; I had the same issues with my guy; first trip - are you sure this is what YOU really want? Now HE is planning our 5th!

Gotta love Africa; they keep us coming back for more....

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5th trip?!?! I didn't realize. I thought Botswana in the Fall was your first. Good for you!!

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You saw and shot many beautiful things. Th.ere are a number of photos that really strike a chord on the last page... the herd of buffalo, the lone trees (cheetahs under one, breakfast under another), the balloon flight and more come to mind, but I'm enjoying them all. Great stuff.

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We saw this mom and her sub adult initially in a tree surrounded by vehicles. One of the very few times we had traffic and I felt we were adversely effecting the wildlife. She and her cub were very skittish, probably because of an apparent run in with something. This is a heavy crop to show one of three wounds on this mom and Deo thought it was probably from a warthog or lion.

 

I continue to be impressed with the landscape, the klipspringer's who seemed to offer a pose on a beautiful boulder. It seems funny that they would use their tippy toes to maneuver over these rocks apparently having sticky stuff (probably not called sticky stuff) on their hooves to help them cling.

 

Huuumm, for some reason my photos aren't opening suddenly so I'll close and open a new post.

 

 

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Ok, landscapes, boulders and klipspringers...

 

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Like my wildebeest that was photo bombing my zebras here is another animal pulling the same trick. It looks like he's smiling too.

 

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In the thick of things

 

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More tug of war games

 

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War casualties

 

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I kept chasing rainbows certain that something good could be done with lot's of editing....yea, not. Speaking of editing I'm aware of some of my over zealous attempts but what I'm not aware of is how to edit a post so I'll just leave them as they are and try to learn from my mistakes.

 

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And this little guy reminds me of the scene in Trains, Planes and Automobiles...."You're going the wrong way"!!!!

 

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This may have been near the same time that we were passing through a herd of impala going at a pretty good clip when coming slightly from behind us on our left an impala jumped over the hood of the jeep clearing by plenty. And remember we're moving forward. Where was the GoPro when we needed it?

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Thank you, much appreciated.

 

While on safari one of the enjoyable but admittedly very time consuming things that I do is download a few photos, edit them and then compose an email to send back to friends and family that are following along with us on our trip. It was about at this point that I thought sharing a few of the realities might be in order. So I'm including the email that I sent and it's copied and pasted as it was. This, of course, isn't news to most but some newcomers might find it interesting.

 

The Downside

 

 

For those wondering about the drawbacks to a safari in Africa and/or east Africa there are a few. Obviously the flights are long and I prefer the straight shot from ATL to JNB in South Africa rather than the two legs through Amsterdam.

 
Getting out of the warm duvet covered bed in the cold room and washing your face in cold water (solar heat) at 5:30 am might not appeal to some.
 
The game drives are so bumpy, you're never not bouncing from side to side and even leaving the seat sometimes. Deo changes his shocks after every trip. Those with back issues would be a paraplegic in no time…Kim, Staci and I would have to push you to lunch.
 
Sharing space with spiders, bats and lizards. We had a mouse (we called him our pet) watching us on the counter as we brushed our teeth in the morning on this trip.
 
No bathrooms on game drives. Boys to the left bush and girls to the right. But now I just jump out and go behind the truck, zip and jump back in.
 
Alan Brasington once shared with me how he travels, what he packs and carries on the plane and I asked him…what about your clothes? He said "got 'em on". I can now relate…wore the same pants for three days… and they weren't clean.
 
Wildlife sounds outside your tent at night with only canvas or screen and unlocked doors. This am they thought there was a hyena in the kitchen and when they banged on the canvas a lion ran out. And apparently we had a leopard in camp while we ate dinner under the stars last night.
 
I look in the mirror and don't recognize the person. With the sun and wind my face has taken a beating. I acquire so many new wrinkles that there isn't enough Botox in Rick's office to cure them. And I can't tell you what my hair looks like. No dryers and no straighteners. I look like a long lost Barbie doll after being in the bottom of the toy box for a year.
 
There might be more but I don't want to scare off any takers.
 
Up next out trip to Lobo and Kings no more.
 
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Edited by Tdgraves
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